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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Squeky brakes
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Sluggish acceleration
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Oil Spills
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Low end hesitation update
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
8. First, Everyday driver
From: "mcydrake" <mikedrake@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Stalls after starting
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics@xxxxxxx>
10. RE: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. More a/c questions
From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Squeky brakes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Sluggish acceleration
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Oil Spills
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: Oil Spills
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
17. Delorean meeting in speyer
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Oil pressure connection.
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Squeky brakes
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Re: DeLorean One
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
From: Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re:Fuel injector cleaners in gas tank ----Noooooo don't do it!
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
24. SS frame question
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Catastrophic muscle failure
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:46:47 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Squeky brakes
Dear List,
After the many hours of restoring my DMC and driving. My brakes
have been squeking sometimes. But it is not all the time. Sometimes
it doesn't happen at all. But other times it is so ear piercing loud
that you can't hear anything else but the noise. I checked the brakes
and the brakes are new.
Thanks
~Kramer
#10610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:50:42 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sluggish acceleration
Dear List,
I noticed in the mornings when my D has been sitting out for the
night. The car starts right up, and I can zoom off as fast as I
please. But when I am leaving my neighborhood and turning into the
main road. My car then begins to "hold back." I will step on the
accelerator, and my car will not get up to speed like it did a few
minutes ago. And this problem happening throughout the day.
Please help.
~Kramer
#10610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 14:55:41 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil Spills
Dear List,
I recently changed my oil and set my car to park in the normal
parking area. I week later I have to fill my oil up with another
quart or so of oil. I also noticed that I have several stains in my
parking spot. What can I do to stop these leaks? I checked to see
where the leak is coming from and it is on the passenger's side and
is not coming from the oil pan. But from something else that is close
by. Anyone else have this probelm? Please help as soon as possible.
Thanks,
~Kramer
#10610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 20:12:36 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
Not all cars have the high pressure switch and sometimes it is on the
condensor coil on the left side. There is also a low pressure switch
on the accumulater N:03:03. That low pressure switch also cyles the
compressor on and off if everything is set-up properly. If you can't
see the leak it is possible it is one of the hoses running front to
back in the frame with the high pressure hose on the left being the
most likely. The high presure safety valve is on the back of the
compressor unless it was removed to run the F-134. The hose can be
replaced without removing the body but you have to bend the flange on
the frame to do it (don't worry, you can bend it back and touch it up
with some paint). Read N:01:01 the second paragraph. If at all
possible the best thing to do is to return the system back to R-12. In
your case you should also replace the dryer/accumulater, the orifice
tube, and the service valve cores along with draining and replacing
the oil and all of the "O" rings. You may also need a new low pressure
switch or fix the problem in the wiring so it works. The system can be
pressureized with nitrogen or dry air and leak-tested using soapy
water or a leak-test solution to look for bubbles which would indicate
a leak. Since the system was running -134 you may find ALL of the "O"
rings must be replaced with the "green" ones. The black ones (Buna)
don't like the 134 and start to leak. You might consider finding
another shop to do this right.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michiel Böhmer <michiel.bohmer@xxxx>
wrote:
> Dear list-members,
>
> I'm lost here. I have AC troubles and I can't find my answers in the
archive.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 20:31:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
Minor correction to my last post, the high pressure relief in NOT on
the compressor, it is on the block with the high pressure cut-out
switch. On most cars it is near the accumulater, on some it is by the
condensor coil on the left. If your car doesn't have it maybe the shop
that did the conversion removed it. To run R-134 you have to run
higher pressures and the switch and relief valve can't handle it.
Instead of replacing with higher pressure parts they were maybe just
removed. I am guessing the discharge hose running from the compressor
outlet to the condensor coil failed from age and the high pressure of
the 134. Pressurize the system and listen for hissing from the hose.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michiel Böhmer <michiel.bohmer@xxxx>
wrote:
> Dear list-members,
>
> I'm lost here. I have AC troubles and I can't find my answers in the
archive.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 22:03:46 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
Michiel, after reading your post, I was inspired to go out to my car
and take a picture of the AC Accumulator area. I did so, and
labeled all of the components. I uploaded it to the "FILES" section
of YahooGroups, under the name "AC_Accumulator.jpg". You may find
the answers to your questions there. To answer them here, the high
pressure switch is located on the metal line leading into the
evaporator, in front of the accumulator. The safety valve is
opposite of it (they rest horizontally). The low pressure switch is
located on the top side of the accumulator. If my knowledge of AC
systems is accurate, the Low Pressure switch is responsible for the
normal cycling of the compressor, and the high pressure switch is
only a safety. And for those who really dont know, the accumulator
is located in the front passenger-side wheel well.
However there are two factors you must consider here. The ealier
cars had a different setup at their accumulator. According to PJ
Grady's online parts manual, the switch was at VIN 3467, which is
after your VIN. My diagram of the later design off of my VIN 6960
would not be accurate, and I dont know the setup used on the ealier
cars. Another factor to consider, did the AC shop that did your
conversion use DeLorean parts, or generic parts? If they used
generic parts, the setup may also be different than I have pictured.
As to your other question about removing the lines, it can be done
without lifting the body, but not easily. You will need to cut off
the ends to the lines to pull them back, and it may also require
bending down the ledge off of the bottom of the frame.
Good luck fixing your AC.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michiel Böhmer <michiel.bohmer@xxxx>
wrote:
> Dear list-members,
> But the strange thing is, and this is my question to you all; I
could not find a high pressure switch and safety valve! WHERE ARE
THEY? And if compressors should cycle on and off all the time, which
component is controling this?
>
> Regards,
>
> Michiel Bohmer
> (VIN #2998)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 22:31:54 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Low end hesitation update
Mr. Dale Funk,
I must say I am rather confused by the intention of your post.
First, you wrote it as a reply to an update with the problems I
currently am having with my car, however it seems completely
unrelated.
Second, I have not been able to figure out what your true views of
the DeLorean are. You keep calling it a "DML", but that is the
acronym for the "DeLorean Mailing List", (this forum). Normally,
the car would be called a "DMC", for "DeLorean Motor Car".
Next, you compare your recently purchased DeLorean to your Toyota 4-
Runner. I'm sure many people will agree that is like comparing
Apples to Oranges. From what I was able to interpret, you like the
looks and style of the DeLorean but have a misconception about its
reliability.
Your car is ~22 years old, and has 25,000 miles on it. That means
it hasn't hardly been driven. If improporly stored, that is the
cause of your fuel system problems. Previous owner's fault, not the
DMC's.
You hinted your car has an exhaust leak at the manifolds. A
seemingly common problem with DMCs, but with mine at 65,000 miles I
have yet to see it. Could be from overheating, in which case,
previous owner's fault, not DMC's.
While my car, and everyone else's here seem to have their small
little quirks, for the most part they just seem to keep running and
running and running and running and WOW!
2000, I purchased my car with 27,000 miles. Without doing a thing,
it kept running and running and running and running and WOW!
2001, with 32,000 miles, I do some scheduled maintenence on the car
during the spring. The rest of the year, it just kept running and
running and running and running and WOW!
2002, with 45,000 miles, I dont do a thing, and again, it just kept
running and running and running and running and WOW!
2003, with 62,000 miles, it now needs a tuneup, but for some reason,
it just kept running and running and running and running and WOW!
Today, with 65,000 miles, after the tuneup, but still with minor
issues, can you guess what it did? It just keeps on running and
running and running and running and WOW!
Dale, I have complete confidence, that once your car gets its
initial issues resolved proporly, it also, will keep on running and
running and running and running and WOW! Just like your Toyota. Be
patient, when you start driving it, you will enjoy your DMC.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "D F" <funkstuf@xxxx> wrote:
> Holy Smokes,
> I've recently purchased a DML, I was thinking of my Toyota 4-
runner and my DML that has 25,000 miles on it and is being worked on. I've
decided it's a beautiful car and I love it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 13:46:57 -0000
From: "mcydrake" <mikedrake@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: First, Everyday driver
Hello, I am a teen in CT that would like to know if a DeLorean would
be a good first car, and daily driver. I love these cars and will
aquire one soon. I have built cars with my dad and I know much about
cars and maintaning, but I would like someones input with space,
comfort of being in, and stuff like how good is the stereo system. I
would like to keep my D In, or close-to, origanal condition. Thank you
Michael
VIN# to come..
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 13:57:01 -0000
From: "painintheass7565" <advantics@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Stalls after starting
Howdy. I have two D's and one runs like a top and one has this
problem. I starts right up but unless I keep my foot on the gas it
stalls out. It will bounce back and forth between 500 and 1000 RPMs
for a few seconds before it stalls. If I give it a little gas for
about three minutes, it goes to a steady idle and is fine. If not
given the 3-4 minutes of gas to warm up it would stall out. Driving
expirience is great once I get to go, but my intention is not to look
good in the parking lot but on the road.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 09:15:12 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
Jim and Group, If you want to see an earlier version of the AC Dryer or
accumulator as Jim is talking about then follow this link.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/cooling-system.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Reeve [mailto:ultra@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 3:04 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 15:05:08 -0000
From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More a/c questions
List :Members
My car had loss of R12 the compressor stopped and wouldn't come on I
added 1 pound of R12 and some die and ran it for a week it was a slow
leak at the condesor fitting ¼ turn lose I removed all the R12 and
added 2.2 pounds compressor kicked in and cools in seconds but it no
longer cycles I checked the rest pres on high and low it peaks at 60
pounds I dropped it to 52 pounds and doesn't work well and at 65
pounds I get shaking in the high pre. Lines during startup is the the
high pres/sw shot and how do I replace it .
Ken
02700
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 15:31:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Squeky brakes
It is possible that although the pads have plenty of materiel on them,
they are not the correct pads for the car. Other possablities include,
wrong surface finish on rotors, missing anti-squeal shims, missing
springs. Rough up the surface of the rotors with a #80 sanding disc in
a circular pattern with an electric drill, go to the auto store and
get some anti-squeal compound and apply to the backs of the brake
pads, replace any missing shims or springs. If this doesn't work have
the rotors LIGHTLY cut and get a brake kit from a Delorean vender.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
> After the many hours of restoring my DMC and driving. My brakes
> have been squeking sometimes. But it is not all the time. Sometimes
> it doesn't happen at all. But other times it is so ear piercing loud
> that you can't hear anything else but the noise. I checked the brakes
> and the brakes are new.
> Thanks
> ~Kramer
> #10610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 15:34:24 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sluggish acceleration
Make sure the frequency valve on the right valve cover is buzzing. Fix
ALL vacuum leaks. Check the timing and mechanical and vacuum advance.
If the car hasn't been tuned-up in a long time replace the spark plugs
and ignition wires.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
> I noticed in the mornings when my D has been sitting out for the
> night. The car starts right up, and I can zoom off as fast as I
> please. But when I am leaving my neighborhood and turning into the
> main road. My car then begins to "hold back." I will step on the
> accelerator, and my car will not get up to speed like it did a few
> minutes ago. And this problem happening throughout the day.
> Please help.
> ~Kramer
> #10610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 15:43:40 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Spills
Gee! Your car has a few problems doesn't it? At least they are
relatively minor. For this one you have to get under there and SEE
what is leaking. Some obvious places to start are the oil filter, oil
pressure sending unit (the one on the right side for the gauge) valve
cover gaskets and the most common oil leak, the sender on the LEFT
side for the oil presure light. When this leaks it runs down and
around the motor so it looks like the pan gasket or anything else. It
can be removed and resealed or just replaced. If you did not use a
Perflux oil filter then replace it with one. Maybe when you changed
the filter you damaged the oil pressure sender, it is very close to
the oil filter. Make sure you are not overfilling with oil. Check it
in the morning before you start it up and it should NEVER be over the
full mark or under the add mark. I like to keep mine right in the middle.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
> I recently changed my oil and set my car to park in the normal
> parking area. I week later I have to fill my oil up with another
> quart or so of oil. I also noticed that I have several stains in my
> parking spot. What can I do to stop these leaks?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 16:41:51 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
Not all cars came equipped with the high-pressure valve. That's why
the manual shows two different setups. It just never got completely
updated. On later cars the high-pressure switch was located at the
front of the car at the bottom fitting of the condenser. If you look
on page M:18:19 you will find where the wiring diagram picks up the
high pressure switch. It is basically spliced into the wiring (one
wire) ahead of the low pressure switch. If your car does not have
one, it is fairly straight forward to put one in. It is a good
safety device especially with the R134 higher pressures.
It is the low pressure switch mounted on the accumulator that cycles
the clutch. There are two accumulator types. One, the early type,
has the return at the bottom of the accumulator; the other newer
type is higher up on the side. To switch to the later type, which is
most certainly required unless you can find a NOS one somewhere, an
adapter for the return hose is needed - or a hose modification or
hose replacement. I've tried to figure out a rerouting but it is a
waste of time. Generally you can thread the hoses down the frame if
you a can get on a four-point lift and use a little ingenuity in how
you angle things. I have replaced mine without loosening the body
from the frame.
Since it worked last summer then stopped - you put in a new charge
and it worked for a while - you DO have a leak. I agree with other
observations that it is probably the high side hose - but, did you
check the condenser under pressure? They are notorious for springing
leaks if the have been damaged by rocks, etc. Also, the evaporator
can spring leaks because of corrosion on the outside of it. This
damage can be caused by what I call "being put away wet". I like to
run the fan at high speed of a few minutes before I put the D away
for more than a few days because the moisture just sits there
otherwise and does its damage. Also, the new seals are a must with
R134 and not a bad idea with R12.
What about the compressor shaft seal?
Harold McElraft - 3354 (high and low pressure switches)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Michiel Böhmer <michiel.bohmer@xxxx>
wrote:
> Dear list-members,
>
> I'm lost here. I have AC troubles and I can't find my answers in
the archive. I have had my system converted to 134a by a specialised
company. (new compressor, new orrifice, new accumulator, flushed
etc.) by the book I would say. It worked for over a year and then
all of a sudden it stopped cooling after getting very cold.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 16:50:13 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Spills
You probably did not get the oil filter on correctly or tight enough
(or too tight). I would just put on another one, clean up around it
and check again.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
> I recently changed my oil and set my car to park in the normal
> parking area. I week later I have to fill my oil up with another
> quart or so of oil. I also noticed that I have several stains in
my parking spot.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 11:14:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean meeting in speyer
Hello all:
Im sad to say that im back home and the weekend
ended so quick. We all had an awesome time in speyer.
I dont have the official number of deloreans that
arrived but there were alot more than i expected.
The cars were left packed in the day at the
reserved parking area of the speyer technical museum.
we also drove in long processionlike lines from
location to location. A long string of deloreans as
well as 1 25aniv.L. Countach.
Stephie took about 200 pictures so ill only post
the best ones on my site, so you all can see what we
had going on here this weekend.
As for the technical work. Im still reading up on
several documents for the bosch jetronic system. I
will be going to NY on the 5th of july and will be
gone further 2 weeks.
Thank you all for the updated on the airbox howto.
the updates were made on my site. Im just waiting for
them to be posted to the dmcnews site.
have fun
Jordan Rubin 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 11:18:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil pressure connection.
hello all:
I knew something was extra wrong with my oil
pressure gauge. since it would read North with the car
off and NORTH with the car on. We knew it had to be
an open because when I ground the gauge wire it jumps
to down to 0.
Unfortunately, the sender unit is still broken
like all other deloreans. so now its just as bad as
everyone else's. not worse.
Should I assume that all reputable delorean parts
companies are selling the modified (working) unit vice
the origional?
thanx
Jordan Rubin 11613
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 12:11:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Squeky brakes
Yours only scream sometimes? Wanna trade? :)
I've done everything I can think of to shut my brakes up. I even went as
far as purchasing a set of kevlar pads for close to a hundred dollars (for
just the fronts). No difference at all.
My best trick is to turn up the radio. :(
-Christian
On Sat, 21 Jun 2003, Kramer wrote:
> Dear List,
> After the many hours of restoring my DMC and driving. My brakes
> have been squeking sometimes.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 15:46:47 -0400
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean One
I'm sorry to ask this, but this is a question that's been bugging me for a
while, and since this is a public forum no one should get mad-
How does D1 stay in business if people have so many bad experiences with
them? Does anyone have any good or great experiences with them that can
reflect some positive light towards D1?
Eric Itzel
vin 4433
----- Original Message -----
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean One
> > I was just wondering if anybody on the list has past experience
> with DeLorean One in Chatsworth, CA. They have had my DeLorean for
> several months now and have not even completed the checkout. Is this
> normal?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 13:41:39 -0700
From: Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: What about my AC high pressure cut of switch?
David<
Related question: I am tryng to take good care of several DeLoreans.
On the one driven most, I experienced poor AC performance while on a
road trip in N. Idaho this time last year. I stopped at a remote shop
that charged the system for a very nominal fee. My thought at the time
was that the total bill was probably less than the cost of the R-12
anywhere else in the U.S.. Now a year later I was concidering using a
replacement kit, doing the proper oil change/pump down and replacement
with R-134 as I have seen reports of people happy with the results. Now
you indicate there is a long them likelyhood that the Buna will fail
with time. I own ~ 40 lbs. on R-12 (stashed pre-ban) so can use it,
however my fear is that the stop last year included adding R-134 and I
now need to replace my o-rings anyway. If I need to change out
everything, are the green ones campatable with R-12 so I might have the
best of both worlds?
Thanks for your help.
Don Ekhoff
6543
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 15:16:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re:Fuel injector cleaners in gas tank ----Noooooo don't do it!
Rust -
Rust is simply Oxidation of any material (even wood
"rusts" technically). Some materials are rust
inhibitory (see stainless steel) but nothing and I
mean NOTHING is rustPROOF. On metalic products,
Oxidation typically occurs at points of
electropotential differential... creases, bends, etc.
(that is why wrecked steel can rust under painted
areas)
Injector cleaner is primarily a solvent, and has a
caustic or basic pH (above 7.0). Microgrooves from
particles in gas can cause rusting when you radically
alter the pH of a system. Taking them out, exposing
them to ambient air, temperature change, and then
putting them back in to a solvent can cause the
phenomonon you describe.
Also, Stainless Steel can rust (and does) when the pH
and temperature change radically (I use Stainless
Steel on most of my Remediation trailers, and they
have a life expectancy of double that of cold rolled
steel... or about 8 years instead of four....
Pete
--- Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> I would recommend against soaking injectors in
> strait cleaner. I tried doing this 2 years ago with my original
> injectors. I left them in the cleaner for a few days and when I pulled them
> out they were all coated in rust.
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 16:47:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vin 5386 Restoration Site Now REVAMPED!!!!!
Hello Everyone!
For everybody that has been watching my restoration on
5386 you can now check out the new site. Located at
the original address of
www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html
I have included more expanded explinations as to what
is happening with the restoration, a _javascript_ drop
down menu for ease of navigation, and lots of updated
pictures. Please check it out and let me know if there
are any dead links or problems. I think I got all the
bugs worked out but not 100% sure.
Enjoy!
Todd
Vin 5386
=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 00:09:52 -0000
From: "supremeadmiralsenn" <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: SS frame question
Hello list! My friend and I were having a random crazy car
discussion (the usual guy topics: how to make a car faster and
cooler) and we brought up modifying a De Lorean (which I will have
in less than 2 years) and he says he has access (bargain-priced
access)to a VERY powerful engine the size of a small V6, potentially
as poweful as 600hp! I said awesome, but what about torque issues?
I've read some of the posts about this, and I've concluded that the
stock frame just won't handle the stress of anywhere near that much
power. So my question is, would a stainless frame hold up to this?
Also, how much do they cost to make/have made? Thanks.
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 02:21:10 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Catastrophic muscle failure
A public and sincere thanks to Bill Robertson and Mike Cohee for
helping me shoe-horn my transmission back in.
What other fraternity would have two near-strangers willing to come
over to your house and work on your car, in the rain, until 11:30 pm
with inadequate tools?
Thanks a lot guys.
Rich
#5335- MD
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