To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: LED's
From: "Mike" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Speedo Angle Drive Question
From: Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Strange noise in enginebay
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Fan lead wire problem
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Speedo Angle Drive Question
From: "Michael" <Admiral_mjm@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: LED's
From: "Mike" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Window regulator (motor) Poll
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Fan lead wire problem
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Fan lead wire problem
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Delorean Turbos, Twin Turbos? What, where, how much?
From: "Michael" <Admiral_mjm@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Simplified speedo cable
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. ? Miss Fire ?
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
13. rough running
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: ? Miss Fire ?
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: rough running
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Strange noise in enginebay
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Simplified speedo cable
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Fan lead wire problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: rough running
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Re: Delorean Turbos, Twin Turbos? What, where, how much?
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
21. DMC Houston Performance
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
22. TABs
From: "Chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 21:34:04 -0700
From: "Mike" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: LED's
Hi Jeff,
My Taillights are all Jamstrait 1156 LED's
Before the 1156,1157 and 194 were available or bright enough, I custom made
LED boards for my door lights, side marker lights and front blinkers.
So, right now it looks like the side marker lights will have to remain
custom since there are now cross reference to that bulb #. All the other
lights are now available for purchase.
I had a personal web page that showed how I made the custom LED boards and
what they looked liked illuminated. But that homepage operator shut down
their server. I haven't had time to start another one. Maybe I will though?
Regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "jmpdmc7878" <jmpdmc7878@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 4:36 PM
Subject: LED's
> Mike,
>
> Please keep the list posted if you run into any problems with these
> lights but I think this is great. Thanks for the pictures in the
> photo section too. If my dash lights give out, I will seriously
> consider LED's. Did you try red 1156 (I think that is the size) for
> the brake lights?
>
>
> Jeff Porter
> VIN 01678
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 09:14:50 -0700
From: Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedo Angle Drive Question
Bill,
Just last night I finished (well almost) going thru almost the identical
thing. My cable was unwound as you describe however it had also come
out of the drive gear as well on it's own. This has been an education
so please bear with as this might get a little long.
To disassemble the right angle drive, I took a dremel tool to the four
staking spots holding in the larger steel disk set into the casting.
Ths allowed the disk to be lifted out. Behind this was a shim and a
coined disk that acts as a thrust plate for the gear. The gear than
simply slides out. I would suggest this level of disassembly to attempt
a repair of the flex cable itself.
The cable is larger than standard and the end square drive is 1/8" .
This is referred to in the industry as "heavy duty" speedo. cable.
There is a ferrile swedged onto the flex cable ~1/2" long that is
precision ground after swedging to a .236 " dia. This ferrile than is
pressed into the gear which has a bore that is tighter at the gear end.
I exhausted local resources and then contacted "www.speedometerplus.com"
(Los Angeles) with a description of my old cable and the remains of the
old cable mailed to them in an envelope. For $39.95 I got back a heavy
duty cable with the required square end formed on one end and a crude
crimped ferrile on the other. I then rigged up a centerless grinding
operation to shape this lump to a precision .237" dia. feature that I
was able to press into the drive gear. It might be possible to "J.B.
Weld this in but I followed factory proceedure as much as possible.
Reassembling the clean, greased parts was a simple reward. All that is
left is to install it into the car.
My next question is how to reduce the load on this assembly as I agree
the cable is vulnerable to "unwinding". I would think a single new
cable all the way to the instrument panel (eliminating the Lambda box)
would be a step forward. Has anyone done this and is it available for sale?
Contact me off-line with questions.
Don Ekhoff
6543
content22207 wrote:
>Finally autopsied speedo. Right angle grears fine (yay!). Problem is
>short cable that passes through spindle. Square cimp end is unwound
>and mangled. In its infinite wisdom DMC wound in opposite direction of
>predominant wheel rotation. All it takes is disturbance to one strand
>and cable will destroy itself from wheel movement alone.
>
>Wheel disc is fine BTW.
>
>I've got angle drive off car but can't figure out how to remove short
>cable from its gear. Does anyone know how to separate the two? If I
>can remove short cable, will replace with cut down parts house cable.
>More complicated back up plan otherwise -- will post if that's what it
>comes to.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 16:06:35 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Strange noise in enginebay
Everything forward of engine takes vacuum from 3/8" nipple on
passenger intake rail. Cap it first to determine if leak is in fact
what you're hearing (remember brake booster uses same line -- you may
want to diagnose in place).
If capping nipple stops sound, you'll have to further isolate actual leak.
HVAC control knob routes vacuum to various vents & doors -- it can
leak anywhere from knob to diaphragms at other ends. Is also a very
small line back to heater core shutoff valve. If your climate control
system is misbehaving (center vents don't work, circulates outside
rather than inside air, etc) this is most likely problem.
Power brake booster is isolated from passenger compartment by an inch
or so of foam, but sound might penetrate. Is a big line -- if it's
leaking you should also have idle problems.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxx> wrote:
> I have a hissing sound in the cabin....that I especially notice when
I pull
> the car into the garage.....I thought it was coming form the a/c control
> area but it may be something else. Other that the heater hose
technique are
> there other ways to detect or isolate vacuum leaks?
>
> Michael W. Townsley, Principal
> Townsley Consulting Group, LLC
> 2 Fox Hill Road
> Old Saybrook, Connecticut 06475
> 860 304 2412
> townfour@xxxx
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Reeve [mailto:ultra@i...]
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 10:54 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Strange noise in enginebay
>
> In addition to the idler bearings, you might also want to check the
> condition of the seals for the fuel injectors. On the way to
> Memphis last year an owner had the retaining clip pop up, and the
> seal unseated slightly, resulting in an ear piercing whistle of a
> vacumme leak. I have also noticed a lesser form of this whistle on
> a Maryland owner's car, and even my own 4 weeks ago when the engines
> were cold. Just another thing to check.
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > While driving this afternoon all of a sudden I heard a strange
> > noise from the back, it sounded like a sort of "shrieky whistle"
> > and increased with giving more throttle.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 10:04:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fan lead wire problem
Hi Group,
Recently on a trip my fans started going haywire. My "Fanfix" stopped engaging the fans... and as an emergency fix the otterstat and fan fail relay were jumpered so that I'd at least have fans running. After doing this I noticed that the passenger side fan was not running anymore. I tested the lead wire which powers it, and indeed it's not getting any power. I have no idea how to trace this problem... does anyone have any suggestions?
Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
_____________________________________________________________
See what you missed! Read the report on the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
_____________________________________________________________
Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:08:09 -0000
From: "Michael" <Admiral_mjm@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedo Angle Drive Question
when this happend to me, i just replaced the head so i wouldnt worry
about it for another 20 yrs
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
wrote:
> Finally autopsied speedo. Right angle grears fine (yay!). Problem is
> short cable that passes through spindle. Square cimp end is unwound
> and mangled. In its infinite wisdom DMC wound in opposite direction
of
> predominant wheel rotation. All it takes is disturbance to one
strand
> and cable will destroy itself from wheel movement alone.
>
> Wheel disc is fine BTW.
>
> I've got angle drive off car but can't figure out how to remove
short
> cable from its gear. Does anyone know how to separate the two? If I
> can remove short cable, will replace with cut down parts house
cable.
> More complicated back up plan otherwise -- will post if that's what
it
> comes to.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 10:53:23 -0700
From: "Mike" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: LED's
Hi Tom,
Sorry haven't got to those areas yet. But, Hideki Okamura did. He had
pictures of his A/C panel he posted a few days ago, pretty cool.
Unfortunately, the Glove light, A/C panel, Headlight switch, Hazard switch,
Defogger Switch and Side Marker lights will have to remain custom.
Hideki page link: http://homepage.mac.com/hokam/PhotoAlbum1.html
Regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Watkins" <dmctom@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mquinto@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 4:14 AM
Subject: LED's
> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the link to the LED site. Very cool. Are there LEDs that
> can replace the bulbs behind the A/C bezel in the center console? These
> get SO hot that sometimes I hate turning my headlights on just because I
> know they heat up so much! They would include the rear defroster bulb,
> door lock bulb, fan fail etc......
>
> Thanks
>
> Tom
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:18:42 -0000
From: "sonnyvr2000" <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Window regulator (motor) Poll
Please participate in the new poll regarding window regulators and
which you have installed in your car. Thanks...
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/polls
Sonny
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 16:15:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan lead wire problem
As a final resort (after auto-bleeder, otterstat, thermostat, and
relay(s)), I want to hard-wire my fans. Where would I find the power wires
for these? Crawl under the car and look in front of the radiator?
Mark
vin3072
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 22:47:56 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan lead wire problem
Will post open response for benefit of list:
Circuit splits to individual fans at fan fail socket. If you've got
juice to one fan (assuming wiring still factory), everything before
that socket is OK.
Test for voltage leaving fan fail socket on each line. Is easiest to
reach female connectors by unbolting whole relay bank and measuring
underneath. Unfortunately can give false positives if jostling bank
closes connection otherwise loose. Alternative is to leave bank in
place and pierce insulation of each line with an ice pick light.
Female connectors can get stretched loose. Release from relay socket
with an unbent paper clip or jeweler's screwdriver and tighten with
pliers (remove from underneath socket).
If voltage leaves fan fail socket OK, test for voltage BEFORE wiring
harness connector at fan. Connector is right next to asphalt and can
get corroded etc. Again, pierce insulation with ice pick light. If
voltage is there OK, connector is bad. If not, wire is broken or cut
somewhere in between. Also seem to remember a post once about
intermediate connection to fans inside windshield washer compartment(?).
Check out message #33470 (last paragraph). Fan fail socket is the most
difficult to reach. Is understandable if jumper plugged in wrong
(doubt if that was true ground, however, otherwise car would be on
fire by now).
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Group,
>
> Recently on a trip my fans started going haywire. My "Fanfix"
stopped engaging the fans... and as an emergency fix the otterstat and
fan fail relay were jumpered so that I'd at least have fans running.
After doing this I noticed that the passenger side fan was not running
anymore. I tested the lead wire which powers it, and indeed it's not
getting any power. I have no idea how to trace this problem... does
anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Louie Golden
> VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> See what you missed! Read the report on the 2003 DMC Open House
Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxx w/No
Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 20:27:09 -0000
From: "Michael" <Admiral_mjm@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Turbos, Twin Turbos? What, where, how much?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "steve" <steve@xxxx> wrote:
> anyone know where one can get turbos/twin turbos that are either
made
> for deloreans, or fit them? What, where, how much?
I have twin turbos on mine and i found out the hard way that our
stock motors have "cast" pistons in them, so if your boost pressure
goes much beyond 5psi you will at least have blowby and create excess
pressure in the crank case which pushes the dipstick loose and sprays
oil in that area of the enj compartment and some of that oil wil burn
on the exhaust, leaving a large cloud of smoke that makes people (and
some cops)think your motor is on fire, and extra oil is pushed into
the air cleaner soaking it and reducing the power and gas milage by
almost half.
The proper way to install turbos is by upgrading the pistons
to "forged" ones, and the worst case the cast piston will break and
look ok from the top but with the rings removed it falls apart in
your hands.
I do know a performace expert who specailzes in turbo's he is located
in Lansing MI, his shop is on clippert street, his name is Gene.
P.S.i talked to steve at DMC in texas and he said the turbo
aftermarket kit is a quick way to blowup a motor.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 21:34:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Simplified speedo cable
Are 90 degree angle gears really necessary? Couldn't you secure a
single cable to whatever size threads are on inside of spindle (don't
ask me. Is bigger than any of my flat wrenches. Used a crescent
wrench), with enough cable protruding to reach square drive on wheel
disc? A big S shaped loop would handle change in angle from footwell
to wheel without binding. Only hangup is engineering a fitting on
inside on spindle (has to hold cable sheath and be weathertight).
What parts houses did you try? If I can match square drive in town,
might splice new end to my old cable. Have a thin gauge spring to use
as connector. Would solder spring to cables. Might also solder square
end to itself to ensure never unwinds again.
Speedo died at 80 mph. Wonder how many RPM's wheel was spinning? I'm
just happy the angle drive survived.
Ford Motor Company attaches speedo cable to transmission, as radical
as that seems...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Don Ekhoff <ekhoff@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Just last night I finished (well almost) going thru almost the
identical
> thing. My cable was unwound as you describe however it had also come
> out of the drive gear as well on it's own. This has been an education
> so please bear with as this might get a little long.
>
> To disassemble the right angle drive, I took a dremel tool to the four
> staking spots holding in the larger steel disk set into the casting.
> Ths allowed the disk to be lifted out. Behind this was a shim and a
> coined disk that acts as a thrust plate for the gear. The gear than
> simply slides out. I would suggest this level of disassembly to
attempt
> a repair of the flex cable itself.
>
> The cable is larger than standard and the end square drive is 1/8" .
> This is referred to in the industry as "heavy duty" speedo. cable.
> There is a ferrile swedged onto the flex cable ~1/2" long that is
> precision ground after swedging to a .236 " dia. This ferrile than is
> pressed into the gear which has a bore that is tighter at the gear
end.
> I exhausted local resources and then contacted
"www.speedometerplus.com"
> (Los Angeles) with a description of my old cable and the remains of the
> old cable mailed to them in an envelope. For $39.95 I got back a heavy
> duty cable with the required square end formed on one end and a crude
> crimped ferrile on the other. I then rigged up a centerless grinding
> operation to shape this lump to a precision .237" dia. feature that I
> was able to press into the drive gear. It might be possible to "J.B.
> Weld this in but I followed factory proceedure as much as possible.
> Reassembling the clean, greased parts was a simple reward. All that is
> left is to install it into the car.
>
> My next question is how to reduce the load on this assembly as I agree
> the cable is vulnerable to "unwinding". I would think a single new
> cable all the way to the instrument panel (eliminating the Lambda box)
> would be a step forward. Has anyone done this and is it available
for sale?
>
> Contact me off-line with questions.
>
> Don Ekhoff
> 6543
>
>
>
> content22207 wrote:
>
> >Finally autopsied speedo. Right angle grears fine (yay!). Problem is
> >short cable that passes through spindle. Square cimp end is unwound
> >and mangled. In its infinite wisdom DMC wound in opposite direction of
> >predominant wheel rotation. All it takes is disturbance to one strand
> >and cable will destroy itself from wheel movement alone.
> >
> >Wheel disc is fine BTW.
> >
> >I've got angle drive off car but can't figure out how to remove short
> >cable from its gear. Does anyone know how to separate the two? If I
> >can remove short cable, will replace with cut down parts house cable.
> >More complicated back up plan otherwise -- will post if that's what it
> >comes to.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >moderators@xxxx
> >
> >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 16:19:13 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: ? Miss Fire ?
Today I noticed that the hunting my D has at idle seems to follow a
particular pattern. At idle, my tachometer jumps up a hundred rpm or so for a split
second and drops back to "normal idle" (during this time the engine has no
perceivable change in speed) , then the engine revs and drops back to idle speed.
Sometimes the tach jumps once prior to this cycle and sometimes it jumps 2, 3
or 4 times. The higher the number of jumps, the higher and longer is the rev.
Is this diagnostic of anything?
Dave
6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:38:03 -0500
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: rough running
I went home sick the other day and ended up leaving the car out all night,
which is unusual for me. It's out all day through all kinds of weather, but
never all night.
The very next day (Tuesday) it started running rough. It's VERY noticeable
with the A/C on, not so bad with it off. Cold starts are much worse than
warmed up.
Gas smell can be kind of strong after the cold starts.
About a month ago I did the distributer cap, rotor, plugs, wires, o2 sensor,
and coil. I adjusted the timing and leaned out the gas a bit.
She has around 32,500 miles.
It's very hot and humid here. I'm thinking condensation and grounds.
So I'll start with the ground points tonight. Any other ideas?
-Kevin
#4687
Clear Lake City, TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 18:45:09 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: ? Miss Fire ?
Dave, This is normally caused by the 02 sensor doing it job and trying to
adjust for the proper amount of air in the fuel mixture. I would replace the
02 sensor and while the engine is hot adjust the 02 setting till steady.If
the 02 is good which it is, then just re adjust.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx [mailto:doctorDHD@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 1:19 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] ? Miss Fire ?
Today I noticed that the hunting my D has at idle seems to follow a
particular pattern. At idle, my tachometer jumps up a hundred rpm or so for
a split
second and drops back to "normal idle" (during this time the engine has no
perceivable change in speed) , then the engine revs and drops back to idle
speed.
Sometimes the tach jumps once prior to this cycle and sometimes it jumps 2,
3
or 4 times. The higher the number of jumps, the higher and longer is the
rev.
Is this diagnostic of anything?
Dave
6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 18:47:09 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: rough running
Kevin, Most likly it's condensation in the distributor cap or water in the
spark plug wells.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: K. Creason [mailto:dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 3:38 PM
To: Dmc /dml
Subject: [DML] rough running
I went home sick the other day and ended up leaving the car out all night,
which is unusual for me. It's out all day through all kinds of weather, but
never all night.
The very next day (Tuesday) it started running rough. It's VERY noticeable
with the A/C on, not so bad with it off. Cold starts are much worse than
warmed up.
Gas smell can be kind of strong after the cold starts.
About a month ago I did the distributer cap, rotor, plugs, wires, o2 sensor,
and coil. I adjusted the timing and leaned out the gas a bit.
She has around 32,500 miles.
It's very hot and humid here. I'm thinking condensation and grounds.
So I'll start with the ground points tonight. Any other ideas?
-Kevin
#4687
Clear Lake City, TX
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:42:55 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Strange noise in enginebay
On 1 car I worked on the thin plastic tubing running inside the
console had a flat spot worn into it causing a vacuum leak. About the
only way to find some leaks is to inspect every inch of vacuum hose
and tubing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxx> wrote:
> I have a hissing sound in the cabin....that I especially notice when
I pull
> the car into the garage.....I thought it was coming form the a/c control
> area but it may be something else. Other that the heater hose
technique are
> there other ways to detect or isolate vacuum leaks?
>
> Michael W. Townsley, Principal
> Townsley Consulting Group, LLC
> 2 Fox Hill Road
> Old Saybrook, Connecticut 06475
> 860 304 2412
> townfour@xxxx
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Reeve [mailto:ultra@i...]
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 10:54 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Strange noise in enginebay
>
> In addition to the idler bearings, you might also want to check the
> condition of the seals for the fuel injectors. On the way to
> Memphis last year an owner had the retaining clip pop up, and the
> seal unseated slightly, resulting in an ear piercing whistle of a
> vacumme leak. I have also noticed a lesser form of this whistle on
> a Maryland owner's car, and even my own 4 weeks ago when the engines
> were cold. Just another thing to check.
>
> Jim Reeve
> MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
> DMC-6960
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > While driving this afternoon all of a sudden I heard a strange
> > noise from the back, it sounded like a sort of "shrieky whistle"
> > and increased with giving more throttle.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:44:23 -0000
From: "davvet2" <davvet2@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Simplified speedo cable
Last time I needed a speedo cable to the angle drive, I went to a
diesel truck repair facility and they had the right size cable ---
plus the tools to flatten an end on it for me. The also sold me the
ferrule for the other end ---- cost: $3.00 total
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:47:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan lead wire problem
Either your jumper wire for the fan relay is bad or the connector in
the relay block backed out as you stuck the wire in. Maybe you weren't
putting the bypass in corrrectly? If you still had your fan fail relay
it is time to upgrade the electrical system at least in the cooling
circuit. This involves a new otterstadt switch, a new circuit breaker
and if not a Fanzilla then something like it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Group,
>
> Recently on a trip my fans started going haywire. My "Fanfix"
stopped engaging the fans... and as an emergency fix the otterstat and
fan fail relay were jumpered so that I'd at least have fans running.
After doing this I noticed that the passenger side fan was not running
anymore. I tested the lead wire which powers it, and indeed it's not
getting any power. I have no idea how to trace this problem... does
anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Louie Golden
> VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> See what you missed! Read the report on the 2003 DMC Open House
Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxx w/No
Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:52:00 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rough running
Did you use the "good stuff" for replacement parts or did you go to
the local auto store? This is where quality shows, the better parts
last longer. Or maybe something came loose? The spark plug wires have
to "snap" on to have a good connection. Maybe you knocked a hose or
wire loose in the front of the engine, it is very easy to do it and
not notice. Look over all the areas that you were working in and
verify everything is connected.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> I went home sick the other day and ended up leaving the car out all
night,
> which is unusual for me. It's out all day through all kinds of
weather, but
> never all night.
> The very next day (Tuesday) it started running rough. It's VERY
noticeable
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 07:04:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean Turbos, Twin Turbos? What, where, how much?
Whoa! I have driven a twin turbo equipped DeLorean
since 1987 and I doubt that anyone of this list has
put more miles on a twin turbo equipped DeLorean (over
100,000 miles) than I.
I have never run less than 7lbs. of boost. I have
never blown out the dipstick or any of the other
horror stories aluded to in Michael's post. Smoke
does not follow me down the highway.
Forged pistons are a very desireable upgrade, but not
mandatory as long as the boost is kept to a resonable
level, say 7 lbs. or less.
I like Stephen Wynne, but you must remember that he
sells a alternative to turbos. He's right in that you
CAN ruin an engine with an improperly installed and
improperly driven turbo, but then, you can blow up any
engine if you don't treat it right.
Just my 2¢
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:58:18 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Houston Performance
I am curious to know the opinion of someone who has either the DMC Houston performance engine or the new exhaust as to how it sounds. If you have just the exhaust how does it sound and does it make much of a difference?
Sincerely, Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 08:09:30 +0100
From: "Chris" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: TABs
I noticed that my TABs are not the normal 'Hex Head' bolt but they are an 'Allen Socket Cap'. My car is an 83. Someone else in the UK also mentioned he had the 'Allen Socket Cap" and his car is also an 83.
Anyone else have the Socket cap. Is this an 83 thing or just coincidence?
Thanks
Chris S
16327
UK
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN