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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Recall campaign
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Dash Led's
From: "dmc12jp" <hidesuke@xxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Painted Delorean
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: current drain
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Painted Delorean
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
6. Fuel Pump Part Number
From: "arthurmodel" <arthurmodel@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Painted Delorean
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: Painted Delorean
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. DOA: End of the line.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Painted Delorean (media blasting)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Door Lock Solenoid Rewinding
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 14:42:31 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Recall campaign
If you are interested in having ALL of the recalls you need to get in
touch with a Delorean vender, any should be able to help you. The ones
to check for include the following:
Sway bar strengthing brackets (this is the one you asked about)
Ball joint recall (drilling for cotter pins)
Inertia switch (placement change and improved inertia switch)
Updating the pipe with the otterstadt switch (cutting and turning the
pipe and changing a hose)
Removing the fan fail relay
Installing the "relay upgrade kit"
Disconnecting the lock module till upgrading or replacing it
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, sand131@xxxx wrote:
> I remember that a recall was made to add strength to the front frame
tubes.
> Can anyone supply the info regarding this update and/or supply the
parts
> required to effect it.
> Thanks,
> Ralph VIN 1606
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 16:12:42 -0000
From: "dmc12jp" <hidesuke@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dash Led's
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Hedeki, Im intrested in the #161 bulb used for the battery light.
> Was it replaced with the LED's and did it work ok.I haven't tested it.
John, I cannot find #116 in the electrical diagram in my copy of workshop manual.
Are you referring to the warning lamp in the instrument panel? If so, I did not change
it. I made changes only to the A/C panel.
Marc, thank you for expressing interest.That justifies for me to give some more
details of my conversion.
This is how I fixed the LEDs on the back of the A/C panel. On the back of the panel
there are sockets where the heads of the incandescent bulbs go into. I just placed the
LEDs in them and taped the cables on the backside of the panel. LEDs are light so
they just stay there. There is a tip when you place LEDs. There are light guides
fabricated on the back of the A/C panel. Make sure to point the head of the LEDs
toward those light guides. That way the light travels to the farthest end and you get a
fairly uniform illumination. Another tip is to cut off the tops of LEDs to spread light.
The round head of the LED works as a lens. With them LEDs can illuminate only a
small area.
I have to apologize here to those who went to see my webpage. I put the wrong
picture on the web. It was the picture of after the conversion. The one that was
posted was a picture before the conversion. I have corrected the mistake already.
Unfortunately, this picture is terribly overexposed and the colors are saturated. The
actual look is much better than this. (I will buy a camera with a manual mode next
time.) Note that the hazard and door lock lamps are very bright. The fan speed dial
became greenish because of the choice of the green LED.
The bulbs I replaced are as follows: the A/C panel (with white, blue, green, and
red LEDs), the hazard switch (with a red LED), and the door lock warning lamp (with a
red LED). (In the last two pictures in my webpage, you can see something is glowing
red near the bottom edge of the panel. That is the red LED for the door lock waring
lamp. The head is cut off) I am going to replace the headlight switch lamp to a green
LED next.
Pictures can be seen at:
http://homepage.mac.com/hokam/PhotoAlbum1.html
Best regards,
Hideki
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 13:49:51 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Painted Delorean
Pete
When we bought our project DeLorean, it was painted. Although we
intended on painting our Project D anyway, we went ahead and removed
the existing paint that had been put on at the dealership 20 + years
ago.
The method of paint removal we used was media (bead) blasting. This
is alot like sand blasting but does not run the risk of damaging the
metal. It came out beautiful and the cost was reasonable. In our
case, we removed all of the body panels for the blasting and
repainting.
On a side note, media blasting will not work on the facia. It just
bounces off. We had to use a chemical remover to do the job on the
facia.
Ron
Gullwing Magazine
Project "Yellow D"
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, peteh269@xxxx wrote:
> I am considering the purchase of a painted Delorean. What would all
be involved in terms of removing the paint? Will it damage the
stainless?
> Pete
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 09:36:39 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: current drain
I really dont understand the drain problem people have. I just removed my water pump and
water hose under the intake to change all of the hoses, o-rings and do a tune up and the
car sat for 4 weeks and started like i shut it off yesterday.
Mark
Jonas Pitchford wrote:
> I had the same problem, I would check it ASAP
> vin 3543
>
> I can vouch for the door light switches, I went through a dead
> battery myself because of this. Another thing that drains some
> current is the door lock module. The module itself drains about
> ~13mA, but if the contacts inside or the door lock solenoids are
> stuck then it will drain much more until something fails or burns up.
>
> Adam Price
> 16683
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dsstriker" wrote:
> > hi, any advice on current drain problems with dmcs? I am looking at
> a
> > delorean to possibly purchase but it has this issue, the owner has
> a
> > quick disconnect on the battery b/c of a drain problem. What should
> i
> > look for? thanks..
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 09:05:50 -0500
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Painted Delorean
Pete,
What the stainless will look like under there will depend on how the car was
prepped for the paint job. Often they will rough up the surface of the
stainless so that the paint will adhere better to the panels, however this
can usually be fixed by re-graining the car. In many cases they just prime
and paint right over the grained surface and nothing more is needed than
stripping the paint.
I recently bought a Delorean which was painted red, and have stripped part
of the car. It is a time consuming process, but it is very doable. I am
using a product called Striptease (its not a joke, it is a real product) and
you apply it liberally with a paint brush and allow it to sit for about 10
minutes. It will begin to break down the paint and you will begin to see it
bubble. Then you need to scrape it back with a soft plastic scraper - do not
use a metal scraper you will scratch the stainless further. I have just cut
up 2 liter bottles into a few inch thick strips and used the edges of it for
my scraper... it is hard enough to hold up for while, cheap, and won't
damage the stainless.
Generally once you scrape the paint, there will be some paint residue left.
What I did was re-apply the paint stripper with a paint brush and allow it
to sit again for 5 - 10 minutes and then vigourously wipe the stripper off
with a shop rag. Apply pressure to the rag as needed when wiping it off.
But keep in mind that many cars were painted for a reason, often because of
some sort of body damage on the car. Rather than replacing the panel they
just bondo the dent and paint the car. Many times you can find the bondo by
just doing a "tap test" on the car. Nothing hi-tec involved, just tap along
the car with your finger nails to see if you hear metal ping noise of more
of a thud which could indicate body filler.
Hope this helps.. it is pretty straight forward though. One caution is to
not get the paint stipper on any plastic on the car, it will eat right
through it. And as always, do this in a well ventilated area and use rubber
gloves, you do not want this stuff in contact with your skin, it burns! (Yes
that is from experience)
Mike Polzin
----- Original Message -----
From: <peteh269@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 10:24 PM
Subject: [DML] Painted Delorean
> I am considering the purchase of a painted Delorean. What would all be
involved in terms of removing the paint? Will it damage the stainless?
> Pete
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 14:32:59 -0000
From: "arthurmodel" <arthurmodel@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Pump Part Number
Fellow DMC Enthusiast
Residing here in Canada makes it very difficult to get mail order
delivery from the american dealers without a lot of custom hassles.
I would like to get the Bosch fuel pump, accumulator and fuel filter
for my recently aquired 1983 Delorean from a local Bosch Dealer. Can
any one help me with the Bosch part numbers for these items. (I do
have numbers for the filter and accumulator from DMC12.com but the
dealer questioned the group 204 or 216 numbers)
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Art Ellis
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 10:54:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Painted Delorean
On Tue, 3 Jun 2003 peteh269@xxxxxxx wrote:
> I am considering the purchase of a painted Delorean. What would all be
> involved in terms of removing the paint? Will it damage the stainless?
The paint can be easily removed with paint remover, which will not in
itself damage the stainless.
Many painted cars were "treated" before painting by sanding or otherwise
disfiguring the stainless. You might find when the paint is removed that
the finish is not the usual brushed appearance. If the person selling the
car is the one that painted it or had it painted, you might be able to
find out what, if anything, was done when the car is painted. Act like
you are concerned the paint will flake off, so he doesn't tell you nothing
was done :)
And of course there is the risk that there is some body damage under the
paint that was fixed with bondo. But this sort of damage can always be
repaired, though it would be an added expense.
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 14:38:21 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Painted Delorean
Would suggest running all over exterior with a magnet (traditional
test for bondo), but stainless is non magnetic. If it's an older paint
job look very closely for small cracks in finish in shape of repair --
body filler expands and contracts at different rate than surrounding
metal, which eventually causes it to break loose and fall out. Tap all
over body with fingernails -- bondo sounds different than sheet metal.
If any exterior items (lenses, mirrors, moulding, etc) look newer than
others, could indicate an area of damage.
Stainless steel is much more difficult to work than carbon steel.
Probably beyond capabilities of most bodyshops.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> It's not so much will it damage the stainless but what you might
find when
> you take the paint off. Are you certain that it hasn't been damaged and
> patched in any way? Paint is great at hiding damaged body panels.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: peteh269@xxxx [mailto:peteh269@a...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 11:24 PM
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [DML] Painted Delorean
> >
> > I am considering the purchase of a painted Delorean. What would all be
> > involved in terms of removing the paint? Will it damage the
stainless?
> > Pete
> >
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 17:16:28 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DOA: End of the line.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
<SNIP>
>I
> got a reply about my recent post on the DML from Henry Breer who is
a
> Director in the DOA. I am trying to put the e-mail up so everyone
can
> see EXACTLY how he replied and the tone that was used. My restating
it
> wouldn't have the same effect as seeing it for yourself. Interesting
> that he didn't reply on the DML but SOMEONE is watching us!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
Of course someone is watching. After all, remember a few years ago
when the DOA tried to initiate a lawsuit against James Espy for
starting this list? Unlike many other DML members, I don't forgive
and forget so soon. While the restoration on my car hasn't been as
easy as I first anticipated, I give credit to this list, and it's
members for helping me out, and GREATLY simplfying the experience
(against popular advice, I learned car repair on my own car! :P). So
I am not happy about the fact that this great resource here was damn
near taken away from both myself, and others. That does not make me a
happy camper. And even though I do agree that the DOA has been a
great resource for the DeLorean in the past in the form of technical
information, and communications, it can't hold a candle to the DML in
both information distribution, and innovation in both continuing the
marque, as well as nurturing it's evolution both in the recent past,
and in the years to come. Truly, the DML is a place by it's
subscribers, and for it's subscribers.
Over the past few years, I have not had a good relationship with DOA
board directors myself. I've been challenged to show up to a board
meeting, and when I accepted, my subsequent e-mails were ignored. And
god forbid in one board member's case when I had something that he
wanted. Once word got back to him that I might have some information
on his car, he IMMEDIATLY e-mailed me to get the details. And after
that, no contact ever again. Now I don't know if the information was
of any help or not, but in any case, I know for a fact that he's on
the list. So you're genuinely welcome.
To Nick Pitello: If you think that D-1 is rude over the phone, try
showing up in person some time. Before I got my car, I decided to
show up to D-1 in person. After a rude welcome from "Special Ed's"
wife, Mille, my mother and I were shooed off the property. Yeah,
great way to welcome people into the marque.
And as far as deactivating e-mail accounts in an attempt to stop
board members from recieving SPAM, please! SPAM now adays is
practicly unstoppable! Especially now when most SPAMMers use
dictionary attacks on almost every ISP's servers!. So I too am not
buying that excuse. But on the flip side, if you do a WHOIS lookup on
the domain, you'll get what appear to be a few boardmembers home
telephone #'s. So perhaps you could contact them that way...
All things must come to an end. And the DOA is no exception. Yes, it
really helped the DeLorean out for many years, but it's time is now
over. It's own boadmembers have cause it to collapse. Individual,
regional clubs both here stateside, and abroad, with the DML as a
meeting point have now become THE way for everyone to communicate.
They are the best to know what the needs, and desires of their club
members are. NOT a national club. If the DeLorean Owner's Association
is to continue, then it's only successful capacity shall be as a
regional club for Southern California. It can never become the giant
that it once was, nor should it be.
Just as it's initials state, the DOA is now D.O.A.!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 12:50:02 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Painted Delorean (media blasting)
Pete,
Ron makes a very good point about removal of the body panels
before they were media blasted. A friend of my restored a
Plymouth Superbird and had the panels sand blasted with a
type of media called Black Beauty while the body panels were
still on the car. Well, the panels turned out great and so
did the paint job, but over 20 years later, there is still a
few occasions were they will drive over a big bump and some
black beauty falls out from under the dash. Yes, the black
beauty can get into small spots everywhere, especially in and
around air ducts, only to be "released" years later.
Just something to think about if you are planning to media
blast any car in the future. Remove panels whenever possible.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "gullwingmagazine"
<gullwingmagazine@xxxx> wrote:
> Pete
>
> When we bought our project DeLorean, it was painted. Although we
> intended on painting our Project D anyway, we went ahead and removed
> the existing paint that had been put on at the dealership 20 + years
> ago.
>
> The method of paint removal we used was media (bead) blasting. This
> is alot like sand blasting but does not run the risk of damaging the
> metal. It came out beautiful and the cost was reasonable. In our
> case, we removed all of the body panels for the blasting and
> repainting.
>
> snip <
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 13:18:44 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Lock Solenoid Rewinding
Courtesy of Vixen-man Dave Stragand, we now have a detailed procedure
on How To Rewind Your Lock Solenoids for $10 on the DMCNEWS web page.
Here's a direct link, if this address is hammered by yahoo just go to
the www.dmcnews.com main page, hit the link for "tech library" and
find the article in the electrical section. Thanks Dave!
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/stragand_lock_rewind/Rewinding.htm
Dave Swingle
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