To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Fixing up a D: Is it worth it?
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Cost for R12 vs. R134
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Promised Temperature Readings
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. One more word Re: oil weight?
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: 5w30? Yes Please!
From: "STIAN BIRKELAND" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Fixing up a D: Is it worth it?
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Fixing up a D: Is it worth it?
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Florida Get-Together
From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Front and Rear Facisa (Bumpers) probelms
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Fw: Motor Oil Member Site
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Vacuum Solenoid Valve
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Cost for R12 vs. R134
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Promised Temperature Readings
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Dash Panel / Indicator Bulbs
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
15. '82 for sale in ontario, canada
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting@xxxxxx>
16. Rumbly rough running
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: Conflicting Advice. Who's right?/5w30?
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Rumbly rough running
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Power Antenna Question
From: "billgrah5" <bill@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Dash Panel / Indicator Bulbs
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Rumbly rough running
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. John DeLorean Pic??
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
23. Advice and Technical Help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Rumbly rough running
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
25. Replacement Horns.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 15:10:09 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fixing up a D: Is it worth it?
Hi All,
I've seen my name come up a few times in the last week about restoring a
D. Here's my standard advice: Are you looking for a project car so you
can get a D at a lower price? If so, that's false logic. It just
doesn't work that way. In fact, it's exactly the opposite. I'll
explain:
An important bit of wisdom was imparted to me early on in auto
restoration: "The difference between a $15,000 car and a $20,000 car is
around $10,000." It's strange but true. You can almost always get a
better deal (when all told) by buying a car that is great to begin with,
than by fixing up one that needs work. I'm at around $22,500 into the
Vixen project, and I'm not done yet. The "Rule of 20" has been just
about right in my case. The "Rule of 20", if you are unfamiliar with it,
is Cost of DeLorean + Cost of parts and service = $20,000. That's about
$5,000 more than a D in nice shape to begin with...
Now I, on the other hand, bought -my- car for the express purpose of
fixing it up. The process itself is what I'm interested in, more than
the end result. Will I have a $25,000 car if I spend $25,000 restoring
it? Most likely not. And to make financial matters worse, I will have
invested a couple-thousand- hours of work to boot.
Sometimes though, the journey is better than the destination. My '58
Plymouth has around $30,000 invested in it, but is still only a $17,000
car. Where did the $10k go? It bought one heck of a lot of fun. A LOT of
fun. And it's worth it, IF you can afford it.
I see a lot of posts asking for a cheap D, by someone who will finance.
Originally, that's how I approached the original owner. I did pay him
cash though when the deal was struck - I wanted to start with a clean
slate. I do remember what it was like to be young, and dreaming of that
perfect car. You'll do nearly -anything- to get it. However, trust me on
this one: DO NOT BUY A COLLECTOR CAR UNLESS YOU HAVE THE MONEY TO MAKE
IT RUN AND KEEP IT RUNNING. Now it doesn't have to be perfect at first,
but at least drivable. If you spend every cent buying a car that'll need
tons more money before it's streetable, you will stress yourself to
death. You'll start to see the car as an endless drain on your wallet,
and it may be years before you ever get to drive it. Besides, it's a
race against time. The longer it sits, the more it will need.
Eventually, you end up selling the car for less than you layed out, and
you'll be depressed & broke, as well as carless. This is what my friends
call the "Project Car Spiral". Avoid it.
I'm at a point in my life where I have most of the cash and time I need
to responsibly restore a car. If you don't have enough of both to begin
with, then you won't be happy when you get the car. It took me -12
years- to finally get my '58 Plymouth. It took -15 years- to get my D.
If it's worth doing, it's worth waiting, and that advice works on a lot
of levels.
Trust me. I've been there, and done that.
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
<http://www.projectvixen.com/> http://www.ProjectVixen.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 15:31:24 -0400
From: "Bob Thomason" <rdt7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cost for R12 vs. R134
( Please, let's not start this thread again. The archives are overflowing with R-134 vs R 12. Moderator)
For those of you interested in the going rates for AC work, I just heard from my local AC shop. To recharge my R12 will cost $165. To convert to R134 would cost $850, which would include a new compressor. (They tell me seals can't be replaced.)
Bob Thomason #5252
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:04:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Promised Temperature Readings
As promised, drove DeLo to work today. Took temperature readings at
lunch (hottest part of the day). Inside passenger compartment:
106.something. Coldest reading from panel vents: 43.something (spent
most of the trip in 45's).
David T is right about one thing: R134 needs higher PSI than R12. With
three cans (11 oz) in system have pressure drop at WOT bad enough to
trip low pressure switch. Noted it in driveway, but never dropped
below 30 PSI. Too bad I can't measure under load. Will throw another
can in tonight. Should put me in low 40's.
Slightly related topic: windshield lets in a LOT of sun. Am terrified
of effect on dash, so I bought a dash mat to protect when driving
during day (at night roll up and stash behind seat). Noted today mat
is much cooler to touch than bare vinyl. Wonder if it will help
overall passenger compartment temp? Am making emergency trip to DC
this weekend -- 7 hours on I-95 -- will report afterwards.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:18:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: One more word Re: oil weight?
One observation Re: recent (and past) oil weight discussions -- no one
ever mentions single viscosities. Due to my mild climate, am very
partial to straight 30 weight.
And isn't this thread a bit like the recent (and past) brake fluid
thread -- brand or type of second importance. Primary importance is to
CHANGE IT REGULARLY. Oil touches nearly every moving part inside
engine. Kindest thing you can do (and one of the cheapest) is to
change frequently. No one ever hurt an engine changing oil too often.
2,000 miles is my target interval (usually ends up closer to 2,500).
Don't forget -- engine oil absorbs atmospheric moisture too.
Oh, while you're at it, change the air filter. For every gallon of gas
burned, engine consumes something like 10,000 gallons of air.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 22:33:28 +0200
From: "STIAN BIRKELAND" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 5w30? Yes Please!
When I first got my DeLorean it had regular oil in the engine.
My mechanic told me in no uncertain terms that the PRV-V6 engine is perfect for 5W-30 Synthetic even though it originally was intended for regular oil.
A quick call to PRV experts confirmed this, and I got to learn that a lot of the Renault Alpine owners swear to synthetic. I don't think this has anything to do with increased performance, simply a better choice than regular, although a bit more expensive.
I have used this oil since 1999. No problems whatsoever! The engine is running smoothly.
I drove from Norway to Eurofest, Belfast and back many, many, many miles. No problems!
The synthetic oil lubricates the engine easier than regular oil and flows around more freely and gets to all the spaces where there should be oil.
The first couple of oil changes were done the first days after I got my DeLorean in order to "flush" the system from remnants of regular oil. The new synthetic oil has a golden glow to it. Added benefit - you don't have to change the oil that often (regular oil=oil change each year). I now do the oil change every second year.
Now, it does matter where you live geographically (temperatures etc.)
Norway is located in Northern Europe, so I think the 5W-30 should be an excellent choice for those living in Canada since Norway and Canada is on the same line on the globe. Point is - 5W30 is ideal for our temperature and climate all year round (spring=moisture, summer=sun, autumn=rain, winter=snow and ice)
I would like to hear what oil other DeLorean owners use, esp. European and Canadian DeLorean owners.
You can e-mail me privately.
Best wishes
Mr. Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
5W-30 synthetic oil
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 17:33:36 -0400
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fixing up a D: Is it worth it?
If I could chime in here, I think it *can* be beneficial to get a "project" car to work on so long as it runs. This is what I have done for the past 2 1/2 years and even though I put a good amount of cash into the car, and even though I am selling it for perhaps less than it is worth, I still had tons of fun with the car. I just need to get rid of it because, like owners of "perfect" Deloreans sometimes have to do, I need the money right now, as well as a more practical daily driver. And in the end, my Delorean should help me with all that.
Would I buy another "project D" that runs but needs work? Maybe...the closeness that you build with a car that you are partially or rully restoring cannot be underestimated. I will probably shoot for a better condition D next time though, and make it more of a daily driver. But I wouldn't trade the past 2 1/2 years for anything, and I am not all that upset that I can't afford to keep the dream alive at the moment.
Like Macarthur said, I shall return.
Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 18:09:55 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fixing up a D: Is it worth it?
I agree but I have to say that buying a Delorean that needs nothing for
around $20,000 and then fixing mine up to match the $20,000. I would pick
mine because of all the fun and you're overlooking one important thing. My
Delorean is much better than any other one in terms of updated safety. My
brakes are 2003. most parts of my electrical system is 2003 and my cooling
system is 2003 and my zillas are 2003 and my tires are 2003 and my bearing
and shocks are 2003 and my seats are 2003 and etc. most components that I
have replaced are better than the other $20,000 cars for this reason. Those
cars MIGHT have 20 year old systems still in them. That's my humble
opinion.That's the extra I paid for. My systems might last another 20
years. I am very confident whenever I go out even to the store.
Joseph
vin 2850
Joseph
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "'DMC News'" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 3:10 PM
Subject: [DML] Fixing up a D: Is it worth it?
> Hi All,
>
> I've seen my name come up a few times in the last week about restoring a
> D. Here's my standard advice: Are you looking for a project car so you
> can get a D at a lower price? If so, that's false logic. It just
> doesn't work that way. In fact, it's exactly the opposite. I'll
> explain:
>
> An important bit of wisdom was imparted to me early on in auto
> restoration: "The difference between a $15,000 car and a $20,000 car is
> around $10,000." It's strange but true. You can almost always get a
> better deal (when all told) by buying a car that is great to begin with,
> than by fixing up one that needs work. I'm at around $22,500 into the
> Vixen project, and I'm not done yet. The "Rule of 20" has been just
> about right in my case. The "Rule of 20", if you are unfamiliar with it,
> is Cost of DeLorean + Cost of parts and service = $20,000. That's about
> $5,000 more than a D in nice shape to begin with...
>
> Now I, on the other hand, bought -my- car for the express purpose of
> fixing it up. The process itself is what I'm interested in, more than
> the end result. Will I have a $25,000 car if I spend $25,000 restoring
> it? Most likely not. And to make financial matters worse, I will have
> invested a couple-thousand- hours of work to boot.
>
> Sometimes though, the journey is better than the destination. My '58
> Plymouth has around $30,000 invested in it, but is still only a $17,000
> car. Where did the $10k go? It bought one heck of a lot of fun. A LOT of
> fun. And it's worth it, IF you can afford it.
>
> I see a lot of posts asking for a cheap D, by someone who will finance.
> Originally, that's how I approached the original owner. I did pay him
> cash though when the deal was struck - I wanted to start with a clean
> slate. I do remember what it was like to be young, and dreaming of that
> perfect car. You'll do nearly -anything- to get it. However, trust me on
> this one: DO NOT BUY A COLLECTOR CAR UNLESS YOU HAVE THE MONEY TO MAKE
> IT RUN AND KEEP IT RUNNING. Now it doesn't have to be perfect at first,
> but at least drivable. If you spend every cent buying a car that'll need
> tons more money before it's streetable, you will stress yourself to
> death. You'll start to see the car as an endless drain on your wallet,
> and it may be years before you ever get to drive it. Besides, it's a
> race against time. The longer it sits, the more it will need.
> Eventually, you end up selling the car for less than you layed out, and
> you'll be depressed & broke, as well as carless. This is what my friends
> call the "Project Car Spiral". Avoid it.
>
> I'm at a point in my life where I have most of the cash and time I need
> to responsibly restore a car. If you don't have enough of both to begin
> with, then you won't be happy when you get the car. It took me -12
> years- to finally get my '58 Plymouth. It took -15 years- to get my D.
> If it's worth doing, it's worth waiting, and that advice works on a lot
> of levels.
>
> Trust me. I've been there, and done that.
>
> -Dave Stragand
> VIN #05927
> <http://www.projectvixen.com/> http://www.ProjectVixen.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 22:25:26 -0000
From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Florida Get-Together
Florida DeLorean owners:
Ok, looks like we have real good turn out for Sunday, June 15, 2003.
If we have time we can do trailer arm bolts and door adjustments too.
We will throw some food on the BBQ and everyone is welcome to bring
something. The next job is working on a time and place to meet. I
was thinking earlier the better so it's not too hot and we have time
do everything.
Our house is just north of Orlando, west of Deland, about 18 miles
east of Mount Dora and 35 minutes from Daytona speedway, off State
Road 44.
All are welcome - bringing your DeLorean is a plus.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 22:39:31 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front and Rear Facisa (Bumpers) probelms
Dear List,
When I first got my car the first thing I noticed was the front and
rear bumpers. The problem with them is that they are falling off(sort
of). I can see the screws under them and they are seperated from the
stainless panels. Anyone know what I can do to align them back into
position so that they both are where they should be? Does the little
section in the manuals help? My other problem is with the drivers
side drainage. I know this has been addressed before on the mail list
but I just need to find the leak. I am asking because I am going to
take my D to a car show in a few months and I need to get it looking
good as best I can.
Thanks,
Kramer
#10610
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 16:10:44 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Motor Oil Member Site
All: This is a site that specializes in Automotive Motor oil issues. I am
a member and can research specific issues in the members section (time
permitimg). There is a tremendous amout of information here for those
truely interested.
Don Ekhoff
#6543
----- Original Message -----
From: "Motor Oil Bible" <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 6:42 PM
Subject: Motor Oil Member Site
> I'll make it short and sweet.
>
> It's finally ready! The new subscription members site is online.
>
> I've been working hard to get "The Motor Oil Site" online for the past
couple of months now. I expected to have it online 2-3 weeks ago, but
technical issues and delays with my host prevented that from happening.
>
> At any rate, it's online and ready for action now.
>
> There are four "membership" levels to the site.
>
> 1) The first is a "Guest" membership, which really isn't a member at all.
Guests can "lurk" through a few of the forums, but don't have capability to
post, reply, private message, etc. The number of forums they have access to
is limited.
>
> 2) The second level of membership is a "Registered Member". This costs
nothing. All you need to do is submit the online registration form through
the forum. You're automatically set up with an account and can log in and
post to the "Community Discussion Area".
>
> You have pretty much free reign in this forum area. In addition, there
are other areas that you will have limited access to.
>
> Lastly, you will have access to the FREE Monthly Newsletter with
informative articles regarding automotive motor oil and filtration
> each month.
>
> 3) The third level of membership is an "M.O.B. Member". These are people
who have purchased any version of "The Motor Oil Bible" (ebook, CD, bound
edition or bound with CD). Basically, these folks will have access to
everything that a free "Registered Member" will have access to, but they
will also have access to ANNUAL motor oil technical specification updates.
>
> The first of these annual updates is already available on the site and
available for viewing/downloading. This is a HUGE revamp of the last update
of the technical specs found in The Motor Oil Bible. More brands, more
viscosities, tons of updates. Completed early May, 2003.
>
> If you are one of my Motor Oil Bible customers, you will need to register
for a "Registered Member" account first. Then, simply reply to this email
with your account username and the email address you used when you purchased
your Motor Oil Bible.
>
> I will then manually upgrade your account to a "M.O.B.Member" account so
that you can access the annual technical spec updates.
>
> Sorry this can't be automated, but I just haven't been able to figure a
way to do it.
>
> 4) The fourth membership type is, of course, the paid "Subscription
Member". This member type has FULL access to ALL forum areas. That
includes the "Community Discussion Area", a monthly "UPGRADE Newsletter"
with more content than the free newsletter and no ads.
>
> In addition, as a paid member, you will have access to MONTHLY technical
specification updates, resource links, exclusive member discounts on many
useful lubricants, filters, oil change products and other automotive items,
and member downloads.
>
> You will also have access to automotive product reviews. Each month I'll
be reviewing at least one new automotive product that members should find of
use. However, this first month, I'll actually be reviewing about 10
different oil change accessory items.
>
> Finally, any paid subscription member can submit a priority support
request to receive a detailed answer to any automotive lubrication and/or
filtration question within 24 hours or less. If it takes me longer to get
back with you, you'll get a month subscription to the site for free.
>
>
> The price of the paid subscription is based entirely on the responses
received from the survey I sent out a few months ago. Thanks to all who
participated. I think you'll find the monthly subscription fee is VERY
reasonable and is an absolute steal if you go for the annual membership
option, which gets you full site access and a few special extras at a 50%
discount.
>
> But, just in case you still find the subscription fee to be a bit steep,
I've got one more bonus up my sleeve. How about an extra 10% off any annual
subscription purchased before June 1, 2003. Just use Coupon code "A13D3"
(without the quotes) when you purchase an upgrade subscription.
>
> To access the site, use the address below:
>
> http://www.TheMotorOilSite.com
>
> For more detailed information about the benefits to paid subscription
members, see the address below:
>
> http://www.themotoroilsite.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=37&t=59
>
> To purchase a monthly or annual subscription to the site, use the
following address:
>
> http://TheMotorOilSite.com/amember/
>
> Hope to see you in the forums.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Michael Kaufman
> Motor Oil Bible Author
> The Motor Oil Site Administrator
>
> To unsubscribe from any future email messages, please click on the link
below.
> http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/cgi-bin/arp3/arp3-un.pl?c=14438&p=455
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 17:46:45 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vacuum Solenoid Valve
I was replaceing my vacuum hoses and the power plug fell off my vacuum solenoid valve
and i was wonering if it gets reconnected in a certain way because the plug wires plug
in no matter which way i hold the plug.
Mark
6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 16:17:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cost for R12 vs. R134
Bob,
When doing any AC service, I would suggest replacing
all of the seals and valves with the newer style
designed for the higher pressure of R-134 (Even though
I am an advocate of sticking with R-12). PJ Grady
sells such a kit. While your at it, replace the
orafice tube too.. If the system has not been open to
the atmosphere, you can reuse the receiver/drier
although I reccomend pulling a vaccume for at least 45
min and apply a little heat (hair dryer) to the drier
canister in the passenger side front wheel well. This
will help get all of the moisture out of it.
Especialy if you are concerned with the high cost of
R-12, it is best to spend the few dollars (and it is
inexpensive) to replace the seals... it will save you
lots of freon in the long term!
--- Bob Thomason <rdt7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>.
> For those of you interested in the going rates for
> AC work, I just heard from my local AC shop. To
> recharge my R12 will cost $165. To convert to R134
> would cost $850, which would include a new
> compressor. (They tell me seals can't be replaced.)
>
> <SNIP>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 19:34:15 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Promised Temperature Readings
Bill, I took my dash mat off. If it sits on there for a few days it starts
turning the gray a brownish color. So I don't use it at all. What I did was
mix up my Special T Mixture #101 of the secret formula SPS 15+ suntan lotion
with 2 parts of leather conditioner, your choice apply with a damp cloth.
Now you have sun screen on the dash. And yes the windshield does make our
dash hotter and crack sooner. A hula girl would be right at home.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 1:04 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Promised Temperature Readings
Slightly related topic: windshield lets in a LOT of sun. Am terrified
of effect on dash, so I bought a dash mat to protect when driving
during day (at night roll up and stash behind seat). Noted today mat
is much cooler to touch than bare vinyl. Wonder if it will help
overall passenger compartment temp? Am making emergency trip to DC
this weekend -- 7 hours on I-95 -- will report afterwards.
Bill Robertson
#5939
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 22:36:48 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Dash Panel / Indicator Bulbs
I just took off my binnacle because the oil pressure light was not working.
(Turned out to be a bent contact on the flexible pc board at the main
connector.) What are the groups thoughts about replacement bulbs? They don't seem to
be listed in the workshop manual. Do you need to use anything special for the
alternator/battery bulb? What about the others? Are there LED replacements
available? Would it be worth rigging them up myself?
Thanks again,
Dave
6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 00:27:45 -0400
From: "Mike Cutting" <mcutting@xxxxxx>
Subject: '82 for sale in ontario, canada
greetings..
i am half-heartedly interested in selling #11434. she's a january '82
build, 50000 miles, grey interior, 5spd, asi stereo... drives straight, no
wrecks...
if it sells, it sells.. if it doesn't.. that's okay too... i love the car
but wouldn't mind a change..
drop me an email if you'd like to talk.
mcutting@xxxxxx
mike cutting
11434
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 09:02:15 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rumbly rough running
Hi list,
Long time since I last posted but I wonder if anyone on the list can
help.
My DMC has been running badly for some time now, not a constant
misfire but the engine sounds quite "rumbly" like a huge V8 rather
than a smooth V6, it also lacks power and stammers when pulling away.
I have changed the following -
CPR, Fuel Distributor, Dizzy + Cap + Rotor, all injectors, fuel
lines, fuel pump, coil, coil lead, ballast resistors, spark plugs
(12 months ago). Freq valve etc...
Also has very good and even compression on all cylinders
Any ideas?
When I removed the plugs, held them on the head and flogged the
engine over the sparks were not as impressive as I would have
expected, but they did spark. I have also tested the fuel supply
pressures and they appear to be normal.
Could it just be way out of tune? I checked the timing, which was
spot on.
Any suggestions of where to start looking would be helpful.
James RG
Vin# 5462
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 03:30:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Conflicting Advice. Who's right?/5w30?
Robert,
I run fully synthetic Mobil 1 20w50 in my car.It
previously ran on conventional oils.I was at first
reluctant to switch to a modern synthetic thinking it
may simply run straight through the engine.However I
was persuaded by some people to try the Mobil 1.
My fear of the oil leaking out was unfounded and
nearly 6 months later the oil still has a dark gold
colour to it,not nearly as black and dirty as the
regular oil got.
The only difference I have noticed is that the car is
alot less reluctant to start on a cold morning.I have
experienced no increase in performance or drivability.
i still think you should change your oil twice a year
whether its synthetic or not.The other benefit of the
synthetics is they contain many cleaning detergents so
they'll keep the motor cleaner.
To each his own I say.
Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Aus.
--- therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
>. Granted though, you don' have to
> change it as often. If
> anyone here can relate some experience in switching
> their PRV over to
> synthetic, and can give some details on changes that
> they've noticed, I've love
> to hear!
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 09:07:59 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rumbly rough running
James,
Your exhaust manifold is leaking. The description you give is a classic case! It's nice
that you've got so many new parts in your fuel and ignition system. You'll be glad you
did that in the long run, but there was no chance any of that would fix this problem.
You'll want new gaskets and new bolts. It's a tough job. I had mine done
professionally.
See this article by Martin Gutkowski on the DMC News Tech Section for detials:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/exhaustgasket.html
- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280 9 years
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 03:10:16 -0000
From: "billgrah5" <bill@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Power Antenna Question
Hello,
I currently have most of my DMC's interior removed to dye the faded
vinyl and replace my bad Craig radio.
I purchased a nice Sony head unit with a 100% invisible face plate.
It has two wires for the power antenna: .1 amp and .3 amp wires.
I can't find anything in the archive or manuals that lists the proper
amperage. Does anyone know the correct requirement?
I have a Nov 1981, vin 6298.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 02:20:58 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dash Panel / Indicator Bulbs
the only thing I suggest is to replace every bulb because another will blow
out in a couple of months. It is a pain. It happened to me.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: <doctorDHD@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 10:36 PM
Subject: [DML] Dash Panel / Indicator Bulbs
> I just took off my binnacle because the oil pressure light was not
working.
> (Turned out to be a bent contact on the flexible pc board at the main
> connector.) What are the groups thoughts about replacement bulbs? They
don't seem to
> be listed in the workshop manual. Do you need to use anything special for
the
> alternator/battery bulb? What about the others? Are there LED
replacements
> available? Would it be worth rigging them up myself?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Dave
> 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 09:57:36 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rumbly rough running
You've been moving a lot of things around on the engine in the process of
installing all the new items. I'd check that all vacuum and electrical items
are connected properly, for example the electric connection for the vacuum
advance solenoid. Make sure the cold start valve isn't leaking fuel when
running and make sure all the injectors are seated properly. I wouldn't
think an exhaust leak would affect engine power when under way. Elvis's
comment about the cat converter is worth checking as well. You mentioned a
new fuel distributor. The DeLorean's distributor is Bosch # FD46X. It is a
unique number to the DeLorean. Even the same vintage Volvo uses a different
number. I'd guess the differences are in the size of the slots and the
relationship to the plunger and possibly the adjustment of the primary
pressure valve. If you used a different number distributor you most likley
need to re-adjust the mixture screw and possibly adjust the primary pressure
by increasing or decreasing the number of shims. Primary pressure should be
held to 5.1 to 5.3 Bar.
Bruce Benson
> My DMC has been running badly for some time now, not a constant
> misfire but the engine sounds quite "rumbly" like a huge V8 rather
> than a smooth V6, it also lacks power and stammers when pulling away.
> James RG
> Vin# 5462
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 00:15:51 -0500
From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: John DeLorean Pic??
I'm looking for the picture of John DeLorean in jeans in front of his messy
desk. Can anyone remind me where I saw this? Was it in one of the books?
Better yet, does anyone have a digital copy?
I think the picture was taken back in the 70s
Thanks,
Jake Kamphoefner
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 14:20:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Advice and Technical Help
It really helps the list if after getting advice on a posted problem
you can let us know what happened and what you found and what was done
to fix the problem. This helps those of us that offer advice so that
we can help others in the future and it shows us common and more
obscure problems. It is always difficult to give help in this forum
without seeing for ourselves and having to rely on sometimes
inaccurate descriptions of symptoms. Before asking for help it is
always good to be aware of the recent history before the problem
started and look the car over carefully for anything that may have
changed. Many of the problems of the Delorean are rather common but as
you fix the obvious ones the more subtle ones start to stand out. The
main thing is that the parts are getting old so in many cases (for
many engine problems anyway) a fresh tune-up can go a long way. It is
always best to put in parts from one of the "D" venders as then you
know that they are correct and of good quality. It is really hard to
fix a problem if the parts you are putting in are worse than the ones
you took out or are just plain wrong! Besides when you order the parts
you can get loads of "free" advice!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 15:18:38 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rumbly rough running
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> Long time since I last posted but I wonder if anyone on the list
can
> help.
>
> My DMC has been running badly for some time now, not a constant
> misfire but the engine sounds quite "rumbly" like a huge V8 rather
> than a smooth V6, it also lacks power and stammers when pulling
away.
<SNIP>
Try pulling the fuel injectors, and make sure that they've all got a
good spray pattern. Another thing to check is to make sure that the
spark plugs are all properly gapped. Both are items that can cause
the type of problem that you're describing on your car, which sounds
like improper burning of fuel in the cylinders (either too much, or
improperly atomized). If that still fails, you *might* need a CO
adjustment like my car did after 20 years, but that's more of a final
repair, and takes an exhaust anylizer to complete.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 15:38:52 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Replacement Horns.
Occasionally in the past, I've seen people looking for replacement
horns for their cars. As it turns out, my horns too have started to
die on me. Which isn't a good thing, seeing as how I tend to use them
frequently here. They didn't warble, or change tone. They've just
become more quite.
Anywho, the replacements that I found look great! They're larger than
the OEM ones, and are black and silver, so they don't look out of
place like the aftermarket red ones do. Plus, the best part is the
sound; 138db! Beleive me, you will be heard! Other than the loudness,
the tone is the exact same as stock, but sounds MUCH better, and
isn't wimpy at all!
$14 each for the low, and high note horns @ Checker auto parts (or
Kragen, or Schuck's depending upon where you live). Installaion is a
breeze, as the horns simply bolt into the old locations. So for those
that have been looking for a nice aftermarket alternative that is as
close to stock as possible in appearance, these fit the bill.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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