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There are 18 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Possible for more air flow from AC?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: My water pump failed again, revisited.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Warm-up problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Ceiling leaks!!
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: DeLorean Engine Options.
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. "PROJECT" D for sale
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
7. Rear driver side panel alignment.
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Ceiling leaks!!
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: gas pedal
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Ceiling leaks!!
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Broken bolt
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Performance Database???
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Possible for more air flow from AC?
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: DeLorean Engine Options.
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Re: Warm-up problems
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
16. Re: "PROJECT" D for sale
From: Bryan Carter <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Broken bolt
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Ignorance is Dangerous (From: Critical Engine Failure)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 14:20:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Possible for more air flow from AC?
Make sure that none of the hoses are disconnected leaking air. Watch
the actuaters to make sure they move. If the mode switch is hissing
take it apart and lubricate it or rebuild it. Check the rotation of
the fan motor. If it is going backwards reverse the connections to it.
Make sure the ducts in the doors aren't disconnected, the air will
just blow inside the door and not come out the vents. These are some
of the more common things to check.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxx> wrote:
> My Delorean's fan, even on 4 doesn't blow enough for me. There are
> not any blockages in the air ducts. Is there a way to get it to blow
> more air?
>
> Just curious..
>
> Thanks
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 14:23:34 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My water pump failed again, revisited.
Sounds like when you put the pulley on the water pump you moved the
shaft pushing the impeller back and unseating the seal.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss@xxxx> wrote:
> Thought I'd share my experience this weekend.
>
> After rebuilding the engine because of a bad water pump, the darn
> thing failed again on the first day I actually drove it anywhere
> after the rebuild.
>
> When I took the failed water pump out this weekend, the pulley would
> not rotate (and by the way, I only removed the belt, the throttle
> barrell assembly and the intake plenum 'w pipe').
>
> I saw on www.specialtauto.com a picture showing how to tell if the
> pulley was pushed on far enough and sure enough it was out 3/4 of an
> inch.
>
> When I took the back of the pump off, I found that the impeller wheel
> had indeed been rubbing the back of the water pump case, and in fact
> there was quite a bit of damage to both the back and the impeller
> wheel too.
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 14:27:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Warm-up problems
Check out the idle system and the vacuum advance system to see if they
are working correctly. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. If the car
hasn't had a tune-up in a long time you might need to do it now. Also
make sure the frequency valve on the right valve cover is buzzing.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxx> wrote:
> Dear List,
> My problems with warming up are still going on. I just replaced the
> warm-up regulator. Only to find that I still need to let the car warm
> up. It's better then it was before. But I thought that this would
> solve it. What do I do now?
> Thanks,
> Kramer #10610
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 09:44:13 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ceiling leaks!!
http://www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm #12 in the Frame/Body section is the
factory service bulletin on water leaks.
If the leak seems to be at the front of the headliner panels where the sun
visors are, then the likely culprit is the headliner material itself. On
many cars it sticks out into the area where the water drains. Open the door
and look down in the valley between the windshield and the rubber seal
around the door opening. Do you see fuzzy stuff? There's your leak. It
wicks the water right inside. Trim it and caulk it with a 100% silicone
sealant.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 06:13 AM 5/13/2003 -0000, you wrote:
>After much warning not to get my car in heavy rain, the car ended up
>in heavy rain anyways. Now, with compensation to get it repaired
>because the ceiling T-panel is drooping, where is the leak coming
>from?? I will remove the panels myself this time as the upholstery
>shop did not bother checking it for leaks. I am about to fill the
>trenches of the roof (door) with massive amounts of weather caulking
>to keep the rain out of my roof panels.
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 11:18:24 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Engine Options.
Ski,
Horsepower of most engines peaks out about 1 HP per cubic inch for
natural aspiration.
With turbos or superchargers you can do more, but you need to beef up
the bottom end.
Turbo city in Phoenix AZ has a long of experience with these engines.
And lots of HP parts are available from england.
BOB
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 12:57:17 EDT
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: "PROJECT" D for sale
Unfortunately I am extremly desperate for cash right now and
MUST sell my Delorean. It is also unfortunate that the car is
currently suffering from a slipping AT at times. The list has told
me that this is perhaps due to bad line pressure and that I should
have my filter cleaned, which has not been done yet. (I do not
believe it is due to low fluid or a bad AT governor, which was
replaced 2 years ago.)
Anyway, due to these circumstances I am dramatically lowering
my asking price from $10,000 to $6000. This car really would make
a great project in my opinion, as many things have already been
done to keep her on the road over the years. The body is in excellent
shape with only very minor dings and impefections in the steel.
The front fascia has minor surface level flaking in a corner by one
of the headlights--otherwise the fascias are in great shape
cosmetically.
If you are interested please call me ASAP at 209-529-3400. The
car is located in Modesto, CA, about 1 hour south of Sacramento.
Thank you,
Richard
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:54:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear driver side panel alignment.
Hello all,
I have no real understanding how the panels are
attached to the car. I did notice however that the
driver rear side panel that connect to the T shaped
panel on top is slightly out. I can also see that on
both sides that where it meets the rear vinil/plastic
cover ytou can see it bulge out just a little.
Anyone know how to attempt to fix this.
thanx
jordan
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:58:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ceiling leaks!!
delorean magazine writes an article in 93 about a
leaking roof caused by a bit of the headliner comming
past the rubber seal with the door closed, thus acting
as a wick to allow water to empty right in to the top
of the headliner on that side. Check to see if it
flaires out .
Thought that idea could help
Jordan
--- John Elgersma <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> After much warning not to get my car in heavy rain,
> the car ended up
> in heavy rain anyways. Now, with compensation to get
> it repaired
> because the ceiling T-panel is drooping, where is
> the leak coming
> from?? I will remove the panels myself this time as
> the upholstery
> shop did not bother checking it for leaks. I am
> about to fill the
> trenches of the roof (door
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:46:29 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: gas pedal
My '81 has it. I think it is so that the force of your foot does not go
through the cable and break the throttle spool. You can push all you
want against the floor and you won't break anything. If you aren't at
"full throttle" then you need to adjust the cable.
I guess it is strange to not have the same thing in automatics.
Jim
1537
ps who floors an automatic? haha
On Tue, 13 May 2003 11:55:09 -0000 "edherrmann" <edherrmann@xxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> Does anyone know why on the manual shift deloreans there is a bracket
> on the floor board under the gas pedal. It stops the travel of the
> pedal (can not push pedal to the floor) and on the automatics there
> isn't one. Do all manuals have this bracket? Thanks ED
>
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 17:17:52 -0400
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ceiling leaks!!
John
I was looking through my factory service bulletins the other day and I came
across one that addresses water leaks. It talked about sealing the doorsills
even to the point of sealing off the screws around the doorsills with
silicon. I just did that this past weekend, as I had a minor leak I also
wanted to get fixed.
It stopped raining for a while here in Tennessee so I haven't had a chance
to test it out, but it sounds like a good idea!
Eric Itzel
vin 4433
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 2:13 AM
Subject: [DML] Ceiling leaks!!
> After much warning not to get my car in heavy rain, the car ended up
> in heavy rain anyways. Now, with compensation to get it repaired
> because the ceiling T-panel is drooping, where is the leak coming
> from?? I will remove the panels myself this time as the upholstery
> shop did not bother checking it for leaks. I am about to fill the
> trenches of the roof (door) with massive amounts of weather caulking
> to keep the rain out of my roof panels.
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 17:34:02 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Broken bolt
What is the best way to get a broken bolt out of the block. Two of my water pipe under
the manifold bolts broke off flush and nothing to grab.
I plan on working on the beast tomorrow so if you could email me off the list i would
get the help faster than posting it on the DML.
ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx
Thank you,
Mark
6683
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 00:15:37 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Performance Database???
I think it might be a great idea if some of the more computer
friendly guys on the list tried to put together a series of links to
the various shops that offer performance mods to the Delorean ie.
engine, tranny, rear etc...or atleast a listing of names or
contacts..i hope you guys are for the idea since engine mods and
swaps have been a topic of interest as of late...i'd do it but im an
idiot when it comes to computer lingo
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 17:54:54 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Possible for more air flow from AC?
Don't know about your particular car but a D I am currently going thru had
the flexible boots that connect the main (upper center dash) vents to the
blower assy tangled up so that flow would have been very compromised. Some
flow would have been blocked and some flow would have excaped behind the
vent. These are rectangular ducts and thses boots would be pretty easy to
get assembled wrong when installing the vent assy. Mine were bad, two for
two.
Don
6543
----- Original Message -----
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 6:50 PM
Subject: [DML] Possible for more air flow from AC?
> My Delorean's fan, even on 4 doesn't blow enough for me. There are
> not any blockages in the air ducts. Is there a way to get it to blow
> more air?
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 21:15:06 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Engine Options.
Hi List,
Does anyone know if a VW VR6 Engine would fit in the DMC. I know the
horsepower is not insane but has enough to make the D car pretty fun. I'm
not sure if 200HP would spin the tires but it would be perfect for winding
roads etc. If I have any money after college I would like to do something
like this. I just need to trade this automatic in for a 5sp:)
I have not seen a VR6 out of a car but they sure look sleek. would it
be possible without hack-jobbing the car?
Peace
Dave,
6286-will trade for 5spd
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 22:12:30 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Warm-up problems
I hear people talk about the spark advance solenoid located by the
distributor...Looks like alittle flying saucer :-) Is there a way to check to
see if it is bad? mine has the vaccum lines on it and the electrical plug but
just wondered the failure rate and symptoms? This does not seem to be a part
you would normally replace on a tune-up.
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 19:33:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bryan Carter <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "PROJECT" D for sale
Do you have pics? What all has been done to it and
what damage is on it/what would need to be done?
Thanks,
Bryan
--- RJRavalli@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Unfortunately I am extremly desperate for cash right
> now and
> MUST sell my Delorean. It is also unfortunate that
> the car is
> currently suffering from a slipping AT at times.
> The list has told
> me that this is perhaps due to bad line pressure and
> that I should
> have my filter cleaned, which has not been done yet.
> (I do not
> believe it is due to low fluid or a bad AT governor,
> which was
> replaced 2 years ago.)
>
> Anyway, due to these circumstances I am dramatically
> lowering
> my asking price from $10,000 to $6000. This car
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 03:39:46 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken bolt
The "standard" technique is to very accuratly centerpunch the broken
off piece of bolt "dead center". Next is to drill into the bolt with a
size drill smaller than the root diameter of the bolt. Next you insert
a removal tool to unscrew the bolt. If that is unsuccessful then you
drill out the bolt to the next size and use a threaded insert to bring
the hole back to the origional thread size. Remember that all of the
fasteners are metric. The most important step is to drill in the
center and to drill straight. It is very easy to get off center and
drill into the softer aluminum instead of the steel of the bolt. The
other BIG problem is to break either the drill or the removal tool in
the bolt. Heat always helps so if you have a torch now is the time to
use it. This is usually beyond the skills of a novice mechanic so if
you don't have a lot of experience doing this you might want to try
and get some help. Use sharp, new drill bits and go slowly and
carefully. Spend the big bucks and get the best set of extracters you
can find. You should also get some taps and threaded inserts. Use
cutting fluid when drilling. Prayers also sometimes help but that is
best used BEFORE you break the bolts!!!!! After you break the bolts
you will find you won't be praying so much as swearing!!!!! One final
tip but it only occasionaly works, you could try tapping with a
centerpunch carefully trying to turn the bolt out. This may make it
much harder to get an accurate center for drilling if it won't come
out though.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, id <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote:
> What is the best way to get a broken bolt out of the block. Two of
my water pipe under
> the manifold bolts broke off flush and nothing to grab.
>
> I plan on working on the beast tomorrow so if you could email me off
the list i would
> get the help faster than posting it on the DML.
>
> ionicdesign@xxxx
>
> Thank you,
> Mark
> 6683
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 04:08:50 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ignorance is Dangerous (From: Critical Engine Failure)
A gearhead friend of mine called and asked how the DeLorean was
coming. I told him I blew headgaskets and a crank seal. He
recommended that I check the PCV valve. Right. We know of course,
that the PRV-6 doesn't use one as such.
Brother Maynard, please quote from the Book of De Lorean won't you?
Section D, Chapter 06:03 verses 4 a and b:
...and the Lord spake, saying "a plugged orifice in the cold start
valve air tube or plugged hose that connects the oil fill cap to the
air tube would cause excessive pressure build up withing the
crankcase resulting in possible oil seal and/or gasket damage. Thou
shalt not allow the oil fill cap to get clogged or plug it or the
cold start valve air tube Lest thy blow thine engine to tiny bits".
I did not understand this at the time, and while searching for vacuum
leaks found that the oil fill cap was not connected to the cold start
tube. I was tired and had a brain cramp thinking this could be the
source of a vacuum leak and PLUGGED IT. So I blew my own engine up. I
think. I was wondering WHY the crank seal would blow along with the
head gasket.
If anyone reading this has a different reason for why these things
blew out and that I may not have been responsible drop me a line.
Thanks,
Rich
#5335 -MD
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