[DML] Digest Number 1498
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[DML] Digest Number 1498



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1498

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Best Year?
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Delorean Limousine (DMC-60)
           From: vahottub@xxxxxxx
      3. marty's hat from bttf2
           From: "dreamdmc" <dominique.flandin@xxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Door launcher concern
           From: Marty Lick <mlick27@xxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Porcsche transmission for DeLorean
           From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Water Pipe
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
      7. DMC Limo (fixed)
           From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
      8. Epoxy Removal
           From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
      9. Re: Water Pipe
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. Re: Epoxy Removal
           From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: Porcsche transmission for DeLorean
           From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
     12. firewalls
           From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Delorean in spymate finished!
           From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
     14. Re: DeLorean Car Show Magazine (Time Machines)
           From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
     15. Re: Door launcher concern
           From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
     16. Re: Door launcher concern
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 14:29:26 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Best Year?

The difference in years isn't as big a factor in buying the car as
CONDITION. Personal preferences are more important in selecting a year
but the way the car was treated is going to mean more than when it was
made unless you have a particular desire to have black or grey
interior or a gas flap hood, then you will be choosing which year the
car was made indirectly. In general terms the cars made early on had
some quality problems which for the most part were taken care of a
long time ago. The cars made in the middle had better quality? and the
cars made at the end had some unusual combinations of parts and
colors. IMHO the middle to late 82's are the best pick, all other
things being equal. I like the grey interior, the flat hood, the power
antennae, and the flared tailpipes. They also came from the factory
with all of the recalls installed and other subtle improvements.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "powermikeintoshg3"
<powermikeintoshg3@xxxx> wrote:
> If I were to purchase a DeLorean, what would be the ideal year to
get? 81, 82,
> or 83?




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Message: 2
   Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 12:38:05 -0400
   From: vahottub@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Delorean Limousine (DMC-60)

Tripping Limo!

Love it,
Scott
10486



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Message: 3
   Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 18:00:25 -0000
   From: "dreamdmc" <dominique.flandin@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: marty's hat from bttf2

Hello everyone,
I would like to find an item from bttf2. It's the cap of marty which
change color in different way. If anyone has this item and want to
sale it, could you please send me a message.
Thank you very much.
Dominique from France.





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Message: 4
   Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 11:21:10 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Marty Lick <mlick27@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door launcher concern

Hello-

A thought occurred to me while reading the thread
about door launchers.  Has anyone with them run into
the problem where they accidentally bump the launch
button on their keyless remote and had the doors open
when they didn't want them to?  In any other car, if
you accidentally bump the unlock button, it won't
cause much attraction.  However a DeLorean that
spontaneously spreads its wings would definately be
noticed since that's the point of the launcher!

I frequent an upstairs club while my car (when I find
a place) sits on the street below.  I'm concerned that
in the crowd of the club the remote in my pocket may
get turned and bumped and the doors would not just
unlock, but open.  Suddenly a DeLorean with no
apparent owner near by is ready for all kinds of
mischief from the street.  In this situation, yes, I
could just take out the battery.  But how about in the
general case?

I've never had a keyless remote entry for any other
car so not sure how plausible this is.  What's the
range on the remotes?  5 feet?  25 feet?  50 feet?

My only suggestion for a failsafe would be to have a
button to unlock and one to launch.  Then it'd have to
be hit twice to be an accident.  Are the launchers
developed and being developed already like that?

I'm curious to reactions.  Thanks

-- Marty L.



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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 12:21:41 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Porcsche transmission for DeLorean

Uhhh... before anyone goes chasing a Honda/Acura VTEC
conversion, you might want to know they rotate in the
opposite direction of most engines.  (Wouldn't that
suck to find out after it's mounted in place!)

=====
Steve

VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com

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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 16:50:30 EDT
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water Pipe

In a message dated 5/9/03 8:48:08 AM Central Daylight Time, MPolzin@xxxxxxx
writes:

> Mark,
> Do not remove this pipe, there is no reason to do it and you will surely
> bust off a bolt trying its almost inevitable.
>
> Mike Polzin

I would remove this pipe anyway though, just to replace the o-rings under the
pipe and to clean all that crap out from underneath it.  you won't break
anything if you heat the bolts up with a propane torch, give them a few good
taps, then quickly bust them loose.  if go slowly, you have a greater chance
of breaking seized fasteners than if you 'shock' the bolts into turning. 
heat and vibration help a lot too.  in fact i swear never to try to remove
anything from my car again w/o a torch!!

Andy


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 22:35:22 -0000
   From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Limo (fixed)

Sorry guys I forgot you had to sign up on imagestation to look at
it.  Its now posted in the photos section, or go here:

http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/vwp?.dir=/&.src="">
MC-60+DeLorean+Limousine.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%
3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst%3f%26.dir=/%26.src="">
26.view=t




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Message: 8
   Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 20:28:18 EDT
   From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Epoxy Removal

HI List,
       I am going to have my crumple tube section welded and reinforced
within the next week or so.  I can't seem to find a good way to remove the
old epoxy from the frame.  I have tried heat with a propane torch and
aircraft paint stripper.  Neither one really did the job.  Is there anything
out there that works on epoxy?

Thanks

Dave,
6286


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
   Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 02:25:10 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water Pipe

Appear to be in minority on this one, but I'd recommend changing O
rings where internal water pipe connects to block. Mine were totally
fried (about 25% original size and hard as a rock) -- not too many
more miles before they leaked. Seem to remember James LaLonde had leak
there too.

If bolts that hold this pipe break, means they've been exposed to
moisture already (leak?). I've always known process as "electrolysis"
-- two dissimilar metals welding themselves together in the presence
of moisture. If manifold mounting bolts didn't break, why should
these? Are odd size (7mm), so if they do break be prepared to wait for
mail order to come in before driving car.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, id <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote:
> The water pipe under the intake with the 3 sensors on it should i
leave it on when doing
> a water pump change or should i take it off when i do the water pump
change?
>
> Mark
> 6683




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Message: 10
   Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 23:52:43 -0400
   From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Epoxy Removal

How about an angle grinder?

You need to make sure you take off enough if you are arc welding; it
(obviously) really gets hot, and the epoxy will catch fire.  And it
smells bad. 

Jim

On Fri, 9 May 2003 20:28:18 EDT Delorean17@xxxxxxx writes:
> HI List,
>        I am going to have my crumple tube section welded and
> reinforced
> within the next week or so.  I can't seem to find a good way to
> remove the
> old epoxy from the frame.  I have tried heat with a propane torch
> and
> aircraft paint stripper.  Neither one really did the job.  Is there
> anything
> out there that works on epoxy?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave,
> 6286
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>


________________________________________________________________
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Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
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Message: 11
   Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 23:46:02 -0400
   From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Porcsche transmission for DeLorean

This is not necessarily true.  I think you are right that most Hondas
turn the wrong way, but the 2liter, 240hp out of the S2000 (which I think
would be one of the best candidates) turns in the correct direction. 

For people who wanted to retain the Renault transmission, this would not
make a difference.  A fix would be as simple as flipping the ring and
pinion in the final drive of the transmission.  Remember the transmission
is used in FWD applications, so we all know it can spin backwards.  Some
transmissions do not allow this "flip", including the Porsche g50.

Jim

On Fri, 9 May 2003 12:21:41 -0700 (PDT) Steve Stankiewicz
<protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
> Uhhh... before anyone goes chasing a Honda/Acura VTEC
> conversion, you might want to know they rotate in the
> opposite direction of most engines.  (Wouldn't that
> suck to find out after it's mounted in place!)
>
> =====
> Steve
>
> VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
> www.projectdelorean.com
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>


________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12
   Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 05:04:24 -0000
   From: "funkstuf" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: firewalls

I am replacing the exhaust system in my Delorean in my restoration.
I have found that the firewall shield surrounding the catalytic
converter is not available.  Warren at Delorean Motor Co. tells me
this is not necessary anyway.. I am collecting opinions on this as I
am investing substantial money here.
Please offer yours.
Thanks
Dale Funk
Vin 4984




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Message: 13
   Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 06:20:39 -0000
   From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean in spymate finished!

Hey, the Delorean in Keystone's last monkey movie "spymate" is done
this week. They are just wrapping up the last of it. My car will be
returned to me after eight weeks of garage abscence. Lets see how
well they took care of it. I was told that any damages incurred on
the car is fully paid for so that is a bonus. Lets make sure that
the body and fascia have not been harmed. The car was used for ten
days but do not know for how long each day. Financially it was well
worth it so for those that have a car registered, do it if you feel
comfortable turning your car over to the film industry. I have found
that my rear T ceiling panel must have gotten wet from rain but that
I thought I had fixed; apparently not well enough!
They have been really nice about the whole ordeal but then I have
also heard of horror stories, maybe not with a Delorean, but with
some other car.
Now 10250 has become famous when the movie comes out next Spring
2004.
Bye
John Elgersma





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Message: 14
   Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 07:29:04 EDT
   From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Car Show Magazine (Time Machines)

In a message dated 02/05/03 01:34:28 GMT Daylight Time, kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
writes:


> If you had a subscription for the second issue of the magazine and have not
> received it yet please e-mail me privately.
>
> I don't trust the post office on this one.

Ken,
Sadly my magazine hasn't arrived (as of Saturday 10th May).
I'll check with some of the English club members to see if theirs came.
Might be worthwhile popping my magazine into a plain envelope as the DeLorean
still creates a lot of interest here and who knows where my magazine could
end up.  Although having said that I manage to get all the other DeLorean
mags that I subscribe to.
Hope you had a good time in Houston.
Very best wishes,
Robert
Belfast 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 15
   Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:04:45 -0400
   From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door launcher concern


On Friday, May 9, 2003, at 02:21  PM, Marty Lick wrote:
> A thought occurred to me while reading the thread
> about door launchers.  Has anyone with them run into
> the problem where they accidentally bump the launch
> button on their keyless remote and had the doors open
> when they didn't want them to?
<<< snip >>>
>
> My only suggestion for a failsafe would be to have a
> button to unlock and one to launch.  Then it'd have to
> be hit twice to be an accident.  Are the launchers
> developed and being developed already like that?

Mine definitely work that way. As others have said, it is also
important that they are interlocked against the doors opening when the
vehicle is in motion.  I built a little logic box using several tiny
relays and some diodes that performs several functions:
1) disables the door release relays if the doors are locked
2) disables the door release relays if the car isn't in PARK (uses the
starter disable signal from the auto transmission--could also use the
parking brake warning light signal)
3) makes one of the two remote buttons open the drivers door and the
other open *both* doors (for maximal coolness, although the full effect
does require careful matching of the t-bar adjustments to maintain
synchronized opening).

So, you have to unlock the doors first (using the standard logic of the
alarm, and then press one of the "door open" buttons. I have never had
a problem with unintended release.

If anyone requests it, I can post the schematic of this box.

--Pete Lucas
   VIN #06703




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Message: 16
   Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 13:40:07 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door launcher concern

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marty Lick <mlick27@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> My only suggestion for a failsafe would be to have a
> button to unlock and one to launch.  Then it'd have to
> be hit twice to be an accident.  Are the launchers
> developed and being developed already like that?
>
> I'm curious to reactions.  Thanks
>
> -- Marty L.

Typicly, this is how ALL of the door launcher kits that I've seen are
set up. Before the door will open, it will need to be unlocked first.
If you hit the "open" button with the door unlocked, then nothing
will happen. It's the same as if you simply tried to pull on the door
handles with the doors unlocked.

Granted an open door is more of an invitation, but knowing how
mischievous people are, I'd be just as concerned if the doors simply
unlocked themselves with any alarm system, let alone if they opened.
Why not simply cut some plastic, and heat weld it together to make a
sheath for your key fob to slide into? That way, you won't be able to
hit the buttons by accident again when your keys are in your pocket.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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