To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Speedo problem
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Defroster switch and others
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: locks
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
4. Re: Fuel Pump potential problem
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: The Return of the ETDOC (Come drive the dragon)
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
6. Water Pump Failed Again
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss@xxxxxxxxx>
7. MAY SEDOC MEETING
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN@xxxxxx>
8. Re: Defroster switch and others
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
9. RE: Water Pump Failed Again
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Water Pump Failed Again
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
11. Two things
From: "David W. Silek" <dsilek@xxxxxxx>
12. Water Pipe
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Best Year?
From: "powermikeintoshg3" <powermikeintoshg3@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Classic and Sports Car May 2003
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Water Pipe
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Porcsche transmission for DeLorean
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx>
17. xref updates now online ...
From: <ken@xxxxxxx>
18. RE: Water Pipe
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. door strip adhesive?
From: "dandan67" <dandan67@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Water Pipe
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Best Year?
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Off to Houston
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
23. Delorean Limousine (DMC-60)
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Fuel leak, please help... Thanks!
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Porcsche transmission for DeLorean
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 13:22:08 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Speedo problem
Hi everyone,
I have been driving my D around for awhile and before hand I had
gotten a new angle drive and has been working fine. But when I slow
to a stop my speedometer stops at 5 mph. If I tap the window the
arrow goes down below like it should. The other thing is that if the
car sits for a while (ie overnight) the arrow is back to normal. Is
there an unlying problem if I don't do something. If I need to oil
the thing too. How do I do that?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 14:39:40 -0000
From: "Kramer" <jettaman95@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Defroster switch and others
Hello again,
My first question is about the rear defroster switch. I removed the
button to find that a piece in the back is gone. There is two hooks
or something and look like they are connected by the missing piece.
My other question is about door alignment. My previous owner
apparently removed the front peg on the drivers' side because of the
misalignment. When I placed it back in my door was stuck and needed a
good amount of force to open. Anyone in the Baltimore area know if
they can help I would appreciate it.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 16:03:21 +0200 (MEST)
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: locks
Robert,
interesting, we had more or less the same idea with the individual time to
only unlock
or unlock and open the door. After I started to build that thing myself I
thought again and
decided that this would be too dangerous. I wanted a safe system !
Opening the doors independent from unlocking
opening each single door
no door opening via remote possible when ingnition/ Motor is on !!!!!
the least possible amount of electronical parts in the doors as possible,
as they could fail and open the door again at 120mph...
no extra drainig of the battery when in standby (one remote system is needed
of course)
small current to open.
no extra wires into the doors
low wight (no relays and stuff in the door)
As resistant against EMI as possible (cell phone rings, door opens.....)
This all lead me to the idea not to couple the existing locking system with
the door opener.
There's a yellow/white spare wire which end directly where to mount the
actuator and it ends
below the T-panel. So there's no extra wire to mount into the door beside
the ground connection
to the lock-solenoid. But I had to drill a hole from under the rear
headliner to get two wires inside
the roof. and that's the hardest job at all...if you have already installed
new headliners a few
months ago.
These two wires are connected to the yellow/white wires and two extra relays
which are themselves
driven by a modern Alarm/remote system with at least two aux channels. A
third relay will inhibit the system from opening the doors when ignition is on.
Another thing against rising the ON time of the door lock solenoids is the
large current they drain.
It's about 15A each plus a second solenoid or actuator to unlock (again 5-10
A !!!). So almost 50A altogether !!!
When talking about mounting points I thought there wold be already holes to
mount the actuator. But there aren't. I killed three drill bits for two holes
into the SS ! :-(
There are many ways to install such a system, but I think this way is the
cleanest solution.
No plug and play though.
What you thought to be +12V from the defogger switch are the 12V for the
mirror heating
which aren't used. But they only have 12V when key is turned.
But there are +12V for the door lights which are always hot, so this could
be used somehow, you are absolutely right.
I mean - build it like you want because just to have that feature is soooo
cool ;-)
Regards,
Elvis & 6548
> Now this would only be speculation on my part on how the Zilla system will
>
> work, but it's really not a problem at all to wire up a trigger using
> existing wiring, and not having to splice a thing. It just all depends
upon how the
> setup would be. The trigger could be the unlock wire feed. Unlock the
door, and
> the lock solenoid slides the lock back. A timer chip (or possible a
capacitor/
> bleeder resistor set up) inside circuit is set to only trigger the
> secondary solenoid if it recieves the signal for a longer period of time
than what
> the primary lock solenoid recieves. Hit the open door feature on the key
fob,
> and it sends an unlock signal for like double the time than is normally
required,
> and thus the secondary solenoid is triggered, and the door is opened!
>
> Since this kind of a setup would entail controls for opening doors
> individually, I don't see why the engineering couldn't be added in to
also unlock the
> doors one at a time (what I would consider a HUGE improvement to personal
> safety). Connecting things would be totally simple. The feed wire would
> simply be a double-ended connector that would simplty plug in between both
>
> the lock solenoid, and the wiring harness. The ground wire would probably
> just hook up to the door frame where the bellcrank solenoid mounts onto
> the door (yes, there is an existing mounting spot available). It wouldn't
be a
> problem at all.
>
> Now the only question that I have would be if a single wire could power 2
> seperate solenoids at once. There is a dedicated 12V feed wire in the
> doors, but I can't remember if the car schematics show it connected to
the rear
> defroster swtich, or to the ignition wire. So that means that it isn't
> continuous.
> But I'm pretty sure that I once tested it, and it was continuous on my
> car, and I got voltage with the key out. I'd have to check that. If it
is, then
> you've got a dedicated feed to the bellcrank solenoid, and then you
wouldn't have to
> worry about feeding two solenoids off the same wire. If not, perhaps the
> coupling inside of the car is easy to reach to convert it over. But using
a
> seperate feed wire, you could set up a 555 timer chip, and send lower
voltage, faster
> pulses thru the trigger wire that would be picked up by the timer chip to
trigger
> the bellcrank solenoid, but couldn't be used to activate the door lock
> solenoid to avoid power drains on the system.
> So yes, a door launch kit could indeed be installed on the car, and not a
> single wire would need to be cut. Then only things you'd need to sacrifice
> are some fir tree clips, and some time to possibly adjust the torsion
bars,
> and to possibly lubricate the internal locking mechanisms and connection
rods (to
>
> lessen the loads on the bellcrank solenoids). Desert cars may not have
> rust, but that dust certainly gets everywhere in our cars! And when it
gets into
> locking mechanisims, they become harder to turn.
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
--
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++
Bitte lächeln! Fotogalerie online mit GMX ohne eigene Homepage!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 15:21:38 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump potential problem
I just removed a fuel pump that had the plastic on it. It was still
captured by the boot and clamp holding the pump in the boot. The glue
was all gone without a trace and when I removed the pump the plastic
fell right off. I don't think this is a big problem. The only issue as
I see it is if the clamp isn't tight the pump will slip down in the
boot when the glue melts that holds on the plastic. There was no trace
of the glue in the tank or on the pick-up filter. Even if the plastic
should get loose and fall into the tank I can't see how it can block
anything up. I agree the best course of action would be to remove the
plastic when installing a new pump and if it is on an installed pump
it should be removed. In all cases the clamp securing the pump in the
boot must be TIGHT.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Group, FYI, No matter where you buy your next fuel pump, Bosch has
> been putting a clear thin plastic wrap around the pump. After a few
> weeks the glue that holds it on will start to let go and settle into
> the tank and can be possibility clog the fuel screen. What is above
> the boot clamp should be ok. If you have someone put one on or buy it
> yourself be sure the clear plastic sleeve is taken off. Unless I over
> looked one, everyone that has bought one from me has been removed.
> Take a look if your having fuel pick up problems.This gule can really
> stop it up the screen. I have reported it to Bosch.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 11:57:22 EDT
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: The Return of the ETDOC (Come drive the dragon)
Correction, if you are interested in attending an ETDOC event, email me at
DeLoreanSS(AT)aol.com
Sorry about the confusion,
John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 17:48:03 -0000
From: "miltdanfoss" <dan.foss@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water Pump Failed Again
I finished my project (3932) and drove it to work today. I bought it
with engine 100% disassembled. After two months and many, many
missing parts reordered, I finally figured out my 3D jigsaw puzzle
out and she roared to life!
When I got in to work today, it was pointed out I was dripping anti-
freeze. I assumed it was one of the hundreds of feet of cooling
hoses, but upon further investigation, it is the pump.
I started the car for the fellas to show my accomplishment, and there
it was - the whine, that is associated with a bad water pump.
8 months ago, the prior owner had a water pump failure and after
breaking bolts and then easy outs in broken bolts, he decided to rip
the engine down. That's where I entered the picture.
Don't know if the new pump the prior owner gave me was bad to begin
with (probably not), or if my pulling the Volvo pulley off and
putting on the DeLorean pulley damaged something, or if I just had
that darn belt too tight (I did have it awfully tight), but it is
bad.
At any rate, I am going to confirm what I suspect tonight and then go
for it again. At least I know the bolts are going to come out easy -
made sure to take all the precautions when I redid them.
I joined the club for a few hours any way!
Dan in Cocoa (3932)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 18:02:01 -0000
From: "delor_01" <JOHN.JORDAN@xxxxxx>
Subject: MAY SEDOC MEETING
SOUTHEASTERN DELOREAN OWNERS CLUB
SEDOC MEMBERS AND ALL DELOREAN ENTHUSISTS IN THE AREA:
WE WILL CONVIENE ON MAY 17 FOR OUT 20th ANNUAL PICNIC
DETAILS:
Our day will begin at Chateau Elan at 11AM where we display our
DeLoreans along with 300 British automobiles. Admission is free. Come
and see an interesting array of beautiful machines.
At 2 PM, we will caravan to the Heningers, where we picnic until
dark. Bring your favorite dish and the club will provide barbecue and
beverages.
This year we will inaugurate the Grand National DeLorean Classic
Horse Shoe Play-off.
The winner will awarded the coveted Dash Mat cover for their DeLorean.
The annual picnic has been our largest turnout of the year. Come and
enjoy good food and
friends
Please call Byrne and Marian and let them know you plan to attend and
get directions to their house and Chateau Elan 770 536 2410
Re:
John Jordan
President SEDOC
404 562 6075
770 614 3728
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 18:09:13 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Defroster switch and others
did i hear you say Baltimore :-)
Email me off list at Billsfanmd(at)aol.com
I am not an expert on the door system but there are a few owners I
could scrounge up and we can fix it....I live in Columbia which is
very close...
As far as your defroster switch I think Einstein would scratch his
head on them. I sent mine to John Hervey and he put the pieces back
together again...
Mike C
2109
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 16:18:33 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Water Pump Failed Again
Dan, If the belt was to tight the alternator would go first then the pump.
Was it new or rebuilt.
Longer warranty on new pumps. Changing pullys wouldn't have anything to do
with it.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: miltdanfoss [mailto:dan.foss@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 10:48 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Water Pump Failed Again
I finished my project (3932) and drove it to work today. I bought it
with engine 100% disassembled. After two months and many, many
missing parts reordered, I finally figured out my 3D jigsaw puzzle
out and she roared to life!
When I got in to work today, it was pointed out I was dripping anti-
freeze. I assumed it was one of the hundreds of feet of cooling
hoses, but upon further investigation, it is the pump.
I started the car for the fellas to show my accomplishment, and there
it was - the whine, that is associated with a bad water pump.
8 months ago, the prior owner had a water pump failure and after
breaking bolts and then easy outs in broken bolts, he decided to rip
the engine down. That's where I entered the picture.
Don't know if the new pump the prior owner gave me was bad to begin
with (probably not), or if my pulling the Volvo pulley off and
putting on the DeLorean pulley damaged something, or if I just had
that darn belt too tight (I did have it awfully tight), but it is
bad.
At any rate, I am going to confirm what I suspect tonight and then go
for it again. At least I know the bolts are going to come out easy -
made sure to take all the precautions when I redid them.
I joined the club for a few hours any way!
Dan in Cocoa (3932)
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:12:58 +0000
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water Pump Failed Again
You did drop a new thermostat in it, didn't you? Only I've seen 3 failure sin the last month on 3 seperate cars. I think it's going to become our newest "common failure"!
> I finished my project (3932) and drove it to work today. I bought it
> with engine 100% disassembled. After two months and many, many
> missing parts reordered, I finally figured out my 3D jigsaw puzzle
> out and she roared to life!
>
> When I got in to work today, it was pointed out I was dripping anti-
> freeze. I assumed it was one of the hundreds of feet of cooling
> hoses, but upon further investigation, it is the pump.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 20:53:00 -0400
From: "David W. Silek" <dsilek@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Two things
Well as of this date, #6110 is back on the road. Thank you to all that
helped. Turned out there was a loose connection near the computer, or so my
mechanic tells me. The instruction on the Cold Start problem check list led
us to the problem so they told me.
Anyhow, tomorrow I am getting a new radio installed. I did have one problem
arise today. I went to turn on the defrost and nada. Is there a check list
of how to run down the problem? A couple of the wires/connections under the
passenger side dash (by the fan) are not connected either, so I assume this
may be th e problem. I have searched hi and low to find out what wire is to
be connected to which prong, but for the love of God I can not find
anything. If somebody could point me in the right direction I will be most
appreicative.
DeLorean Regards,
David W. Silek
______________________
#6110 Driving my D again in Northern Virginia.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 20:31:58 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water Pipe
The water pipe under the intake with the 3 sensors on it should i leave it on when doing
a water pump change or should i take it off when i do the water pump change?
Mark
6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 02:08:46 -0000
From: "powermikeintoshg3" <powermikeintoshg3@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Best Year?
If I were to purchase a DeLorean, what would be the ideal year to get? 81, 82,
or 83?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 03:35:23 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Classic and Sports Car May 2003
Check out the latest "Classic and Sports Car" magazine. The May
2003 edition has an article on past gullwing door cars. Of coarse
the mention the D. No pic except for the cover of the BTTF movie.
Good reading.
Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 04:11:02 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water Pipe
As long as you are in there you should definatly replace the seals
("O" rings) on the distribution pipe. Be aware though that there is a
very high liklyhood that you will break the bolts off so be prepared.
You should also clean out the webs in the center of the engine of all
the crud that has accumulated. It would even be a good idea to paint
the area to prevent corrosion. Before you go reassembling the intake
manifold you should fill the cooling system and pressure test to make
sure that there are no leaks. It is very hard to see the area clearly
and impossible to fix any leaks once you put the intake back on.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, id <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote:
> The water pipe under the intake with the 3 sensors on it should i
leave it on when doing
> a water pump change or should i take it off when i do the water pump
change?
>
> Mark
> 6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 05:41:52 -0000
From: "captain_hydrogen" <captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Porcsche transmission for DeLorean
I found the following online:
[Porsche 01 996 Carrera g96-00 6 speed transmission w/ LSD M220 5k mi
complete $3500]
Does anyone know if the Porsche 996 g96-00 6 speed transmission will
fit in the DeLorean?
Also my questions concerning other engines in my previous post have
not been addressed;
Has anyone on the DML considered or tried any higher horsepower
import four or six cylinder engines for a DeLorean engine mod?
Has anyone "cut" a Chevy 350 in half to make a large displacement
(2.867736 liter) V4 that would weigh about 310 lbs., use half the gas
of a V8, and could produce 233hp (and possibly 280+hp) without forced
induction?
Now that we know that the PRV-6 weighs 375lbs. Does anyone know how
much the Renault R30 transmission weighs?
(ref. Digest Number 1492 - 10. Other engine/transmission
considerations/questions).
Thank you,
Ben Ferguson
Member of the Board of Directors - American Hydrogen Association
(www.clean-air.org)
Member - Arizona DeLorean Club (www.az-d.org)
captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 02:50:01 -0400
From: <ken@xxxxxxx>
Subject: xref updates now online ...
Over 100 additions / changes made to Knut Grimsrud's wonderful parts
database, with Knut's permission I have placed the updates on my
webpage.
www.odoc.ca <http://www.odoc.ca/>
it can be found in the download section.
Again, any more updates or new cross references , send them over and I
will keep updating!
-Ken
05541
ken@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 22:09:35 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Water Pipe
Mark, When you take off the large connecting hose to the back of the water
pump to the internal water pipe and if it's not corroded out like the one I
show on the web site, then I would clean off the sensors and leave it alone.
If you try to take it out, one or more screws are normally going to break
off. Then it's another 2,3,4 hours getting the pieces out. You might get
lucky but don't bank on it. I have a 7mm kit for that also on the site. On
the pipe is a green head vacuum pivot switch with three connecting hoses. I
would replace the switch and the hoses if possible. This is the main vacuum
switch to the ignition distributor for timing advance and fuel enrichment
thru the warm up regulator.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: id [mailto:ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 6:32 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Water Pipe
The water pipe under the intake with the 3 sensors on it should i leave it
on when doing
a water pump change or should i take it off when i do the water pump change?
Mark
6683
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 04:44:54 -0000
From: "dandan67" <dandan67@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: door strip adhesive?
The black stips inline with my door handle have become loose and I
want to re-affix them. Anyone have have preferred 3M adhesive they can
share?
I did try their "Super Weatherstrip Adhesive" today but it kept
"skinning" within a second of application and didn't bond worth a darn
to the rubber strip.
Thanks,
Dan Danknick
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:39:38 -0500
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water Pipe
Mark,
Do not remove this pipe, there is no reason to do it and you will surely
bust off a bolt trying its almost inevitable.
Mike Polzin
----- Original Message -----
From: "id" <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 8:31 PM
Subject: [DML] Water Pipe
> The water pipe under the intake with the 3 sensors on it should i leave it
on when doing
> a water pump change or should i take it off when i do the water pump
change?
>
> Mark
> 6683
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 20:36:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Best Year?
Many say to be wary of the very early VINs (VINs 500-2000 or so), as the factory workers were still feeling out how to assemble the cars. Later cars also included the safety recalls (but not always!). Some view the late '81s as the best built (VINs 4000-7000). This is when the workers kind of finally got the hang of how to build the cars, but before too many unskilled workers were employed that build quality suffered in tern. These cars also didn't sit for extended periods of time waiting to be sold (which caused both cosmetic and mechanical problems), as many '82s and '83s often did. However, I don't believe that build dates will affect the amount of money you will sink into a DeLorean. The best bet for a reliable driveable DeLorean is one that has over 30,000 miles, and has been driven regularly recently. Also cars with extensive receipts of work done are also a good safeguard. Really the only reason I see to consider different build dates, is your preferences for cosmetic changes. You may or may not know that the running changes included 3 hood styles, 2 fascia colors, 2 wheel colors, 2 carpet and headliner colors, and 2 interior colors; in addition to the manual or automatic transmissions, and 2 stripe options... the list goes on. Bottom line is you get what car you find most appealing. Everyone's reasons for buying their cars are different.
Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
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Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 21:14:27 +0000
From: webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Off to Houston
Hi All
Well, it's just gone 10pm here in England, and tomorrow morning at 5:30 I'm off to Gatwick to pick up a plane to Houston (and I've just watched a documentary on an air crash - paranoid?)
Anyway, looking forward to saying "Hi" to everyone, and be sure to tap me on the shoulder if you'd like to see Walter's all new Inconel 718 trailing arm bolts. They have been custom made in England to the same spec as Toby Peterson's, however these have a 95mm shank and do not require additional washers. They also have the correct M12 thread and 19mm hex head, as per the OEM bolts. They will be available exclusively through the DMCForum website shortly.
Oh, apologies to those who asked about auto tranny filters - I have been up to my neck and the parts guy at my garage was on holiday when I finally got round to chasing them up!
All the best
Martin
#1458
#4426
(shopping list in hand for both of them!!!)
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 05:12:11 -0000
From: "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Limousine (DMC-60)
Check out my Delorean Limousine I photochopped; it's my first
attempt. If you like it, I'd like to hear from you, if you don't
like it, I don't want to talk to you ;) jk. Constructive criticism
welcome. It was a bit hard to do since it is not a strict view from
the side but is on a slight angle. I hope you like it.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290194337
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 20:25:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel leak, please help... Thanks!
Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice, I'll let you know what I find in the next few weekends I have to work on my car.
Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 10:34:08 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Porcsche transmission for DeLorean
The 996 might fit, why don't you find one and measure it? Do you really
expect us to give you all the answers?
The 993's G50, which is also a 6-speed, fit with a little modificiation
of the frame. This was only necessary becuase of the length of my
engine. With a smaller engine, it may fit better. If you are running a
hampster wheel, the transmission will fit with no problem.
high powered imported engines are normally high RPM. ie, VTEC. I
considered the Honda's 2 liter, 240hp engine. The redline is 50% higher
than the stock PRV. imagine using it with the renault transmission-
first gear redlines at 45mph, 2nd gear at 90, 3rd at 135? Doesn't make
much sense unless you want to drive around in 2nd gear all day. Plus, it
would have no power off the line.
The porsche gears are long as well. I wouldn't recommend trying to use
it as a good renault replacement, gearwise. You would have to change the
final drive on the renault or the porsche to get good results.
Cut a v-8 in half? If you cut it the other way and have a slant-4, will
that have 233 hp too? The idea is ludicrous an the implementation would
be the most horrifying freak show ever. How many v-4s have you ever
seen? Ever think of why?
If you like Chevy 4's, check out the 2.2L ecotec. There are a few
instances of 1000hp+ dragsters with the engine, so it certainly has
potential. Plus it's light at just over 300 pounds. You can add plenty
weight with an enormous turbocharger.
I think the renault transmission is like 110 pounds? it says somewhere
in the archive. I think it was 20 lbs less than the 993 g50, which I
believe weighed in at 133 pounds.
Jim
On Fri, 09 May 2003 05:41:52 -0000 "captain_hydrogen"
<captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx> writes:
> I found the following online:
>
> [Porsche 01 996 Carrera g96-00 6 speed transmission w/ LSD M220 5k
> mi
> complete $3500]
>
> Does anyone know if the Porsche 996 g96-00 6 speed transmission will
>
> fit in the DeLorean?
>
> Also my questions concerning other engines in my previous post have
> not been addressed;
>
> Has anyone on the DML considered or tried any higher horsepower
> import four or six cylinder engines for a DeLorean engine mod?
>
> Has anyone "cut" a Chevy 350 in half to make a large displacement
> (2.867736 liter) V4 that would weigh about 310 lbs., use half the
> gas
> of a V8, and could produce 233hp (and possibly 280+hp) without
> forced
> induction?
>
> Now that we know that the PRV-6 weighs 375lbs. Does anyone know how
>
> much the Renault R30 transmission weighs?
>
> (ref. Digest Number 1492 - 10. Other engine/transmission
> considerations/questions).
>
> Thank you,
> Ben Ferguson
> Member of the Board of Directors - American Hydrogen Association
> (www.clean-air.org)
> Member - Arizona DeLorean Club (www.az-d.org)
> captainhydrogen@xxxxxxx
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
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>
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>
>
>
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