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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Lee Models
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Fuel system Help
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: BONK!
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Working in Fiberglass techniques?
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. 175 MPH speedometer conversion
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: re:Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. re: Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Crossed Drilled Rotors
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
10. DeLorean side/front ground effects?
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. RE: BONK!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: sharing car show experience
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
13. Crumple Tube section wanted
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Crossed Drilled Rotors
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: 175 MPH speedometer conversion
From: Talks to god <5n-@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 04:49:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lee Models
Moderator comments on this - we actually cut this discussion off a
long time ago because we were asked to by Ken, the guy helping Lee
out. It is my understanding that there are, in comparison to the
population of the list (over a thousand) comparatively few people
that got hosed on this deal (maybe 20 or so). Maybe its time to write
it off and move on. Or take legal action if you think it's really
worth it. Complaining to 1000 people who have nothing to do with Lee
or the model isn't going to accomplish anything.
I let it start up again this time because it seemed like some new
info had come to light, that there may be some people involved who
had not hooked up with the impacted group, and it was interesting
to hear what was "in the box". Most people never opened it.
At this point I'm ready to cut it off again unless someone has some
new information. We're not interested in seeing who can say the most
negative things about Lee, it won't do any good and won't do the list
any good politically or legally. Lee is not a subscriber to this
list, so complaining here doesn't really do anything to solve your
problem.
If someone knows the URL to the mailing list that Ian mentioned that
is specifically made up of people burned on this deal I'll let that
post so that you can figure out as a group (class) what to do. That
is where any further discussion of legalities should be had.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Tom Watkins <dmctom@xxxx> wrote:
> I think that the moderation team is correct in letting this topic
back.
> Someone had asked the questions as to why the topic of Lee Sieler
was
> frowned upon in the past. It is my belief that it was due to the
fact
> that Lee was making reproduction DMC keys and was the only source
for
> these items. The fear was that if we as a group, offended Lee he
would
> stop making the keys.
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 05:51:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel system Help
Please see comments Re: *COOLING SYSTEM* following...
IMHO every DeLorean that changes hands should have everything from the
fuel filter forward replaced. Doesn't cost that much. Is some of the
best money you'll spend on the car (greatest return on investment).
Fuel filter is pretty sensitive, so contaminants probably won't get
past. Rust inside fuel distrubutor is another story. Remember, stock
distributor is steel, not aluminum. John Hervey has nice pic of what
sitting idle can do:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-images/fuel-dist-inside.jpg
If you clog fuel injectors with crap from this side of filter is not
end of the world, but you will have to send them somewhere to be
properly cleaned out.
Interior lining (fluorelastometric plastic) of fuel hoses should be
long lived, unless they've been bent or kinked. Outer skin is another
story. Gets old and dry, and can crack and fall off. Unfortunately
that is what protects interior lining. As long as you're buying fuel
system components, why not spend a little more and get 30-40 feet of
new hose for peace of mind.
Now, regarding the cooling system, I am slowly becoming convinced that
an alarming number of DeLoreans are running around with factory
original 22 year old hoses and O rings just waiting to fail (for a
short time mine was too). The big formed hoses are probably replaced
regularly, as are the visible return lines to water pump, but how
about hoses and O rings under the intake manifold? How about lines to
the heater core, both in back of the engine and under luggage
compartment? How about all those hose sections joining pipes to
radiator, and the radiator bleed line (with what has to be the most
fragile hose barb ever used on an automobile)? A failure in any of
these places will lead to coolant loss and could well melt (warp) the
engine. Unless you are *SURE* previous owner replaced these items, put
them on same priority as fuel system.
Hopefully every Vortec/Northstar/etc conversion will be an elective
option, not recovery from disaster...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "deloreanz" <deloreanz@xxxx> wrote:
> Im looking at a Delorean for sale and the person has had it garaged
> for years and probably has only started it every now and then. What
> steps would I need to take (if I bought it) to ensure that the fuel
> does not wreck the engine with impurities from sitting a long time?
> Just change the hoses associated with the fuel system? Thank you so
> much for any feedback.
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 07:36:38 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: BONK!
In a message dated 5/3/2003 9:27:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
delorean@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> <A HREF="" href="mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx">mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx">delorean@xxxxxxxxx</A>
if you need a door I know where you can find one
I saw a strip out yesterday and both doors were still on it
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 09:21:30 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Working in Fiberglass techniques?
Todd,
About 1 year ago, there were fiberglass fenders for a DeLorean on ebay.
I think there may have been the molds also. Somebody bought these and
now has the be ability to make these in fiberglass.
For painted Ds, these are a great idea.
Who every bought them should let the list know what happened to them.
BOB
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 13:03:14 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 175 MPH speedometer conversion
My engine's blown apart so this is last on my list of things to do,
but I've been curious about it for a while.
I know you can purchase a speedometer that runs up to 175 mph. How do
you convert to that? A different angle drive or cables or what? I
can't imagine that it's a simple as just replacing the gauge.
Also, (this may seem wierd) is there a way to set the odometer when
you buy it to reflect your actual mileage?
Rich A.
#5335 -MD
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 11:53:32 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: re:Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
Dave,
I agree, that Darryl's method is a lot cleaner but how did he solve the problem of the input shaft seating in to the recess (and bushing) in the crank? With the added space of the adapter/spacer, I don't see how the stock shaft would be long enough. Without this support, I suspect input shafts would not last long at all..
On my in-process conversion, I am having a custom bell housing made because I could not find a good solution to the problem above.. Of course, this bell housing has caused a long delay in the completion of the project. :(
Marc
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 12:12 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] re:Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
<SNIP>
---I compared notes with Darryl on his Supercharged Vortec installation.
Rather than the cast bellhousing, he used a custom-milled adapter/spacer
plate with the original DMC bellhousing. This is a much more elegant
solution than the custom bellhousing, and I'd recommend to anyone doing this
conversion to go that route. Darrell also has designed and installed a much
stronger input shaft (due to breakage) and other than that has not had
issues with the trans.
<SNIP>
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 11:15:05 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: re: Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
The stock shaft is long enough if the pilot bearing is mounted in the outer
recess of the crank. The OEM Chevy-style bronze pilot bearing was in the
inner recess, I figured that the trans shaft missed that one by about 1/2
inch. You're right, that beat the hell out of the input shaft but it never
broke.
Darrell's spacer between the engine trans is about 3/4 inch. I drew it all
out to scale, it actually matches up pretty well although the clutch disc is
closer to the end of the input shaft than in the stock location.
A custom bellhousing can't change the geometrics of this - it depends a lot
on what engine block and flywheel you are using. This one in particular is a
1984 or so Buick GN if that's any help. 3.8 litre I think. The custom
bellhousing is 3/4 inch deeper than the stock OEM bellhousing - same
difference as Darrell's spacer.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2003 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: [DML] re:Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
Dave,
I agree, that Darryl's method is a lot cleaner but how did he solve the
problem of the input shaft seating in to the recess (and bushing) in the
crank? [snip]
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Swingle [mailto:swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] re:Engine Swaps and tranny Questions (Buick Version-LONG)
<SNIP>
---I compared notes with Darryl on his Supercharged Vortec installation.
Rather than the cast bellhousing, he used a custom-milled adapter/spacer
plate with the original DMC bellhousing. This is a much more elegant
solution than the custom bellhousing, and I'd recommend to anyone doing this
conversion to go that route. Darrell also has designed and installed a much
stronger input shaft (due to breakage) and other than that has not had
issues with the trans.
<SNIP>
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 17:42:54 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
Andrew
Can you determine the amp draw at the clutch (SB 3.2 amps)? The
reason I ask, the clutch runs on the fan 1-2 circuit (fuse 10 - a
common meltdown fuse), if any of the connections are loose or weak
you will get a weak clutch engagement. If the clutch quits at a
predictable heat range I would agree with you that it is bad, but
based on your comments I am suspecting some other cause. You can
jump the clutch wire to the jump start peg to check amps and watch
function. If it stops working under heat that way at least you will
know for sure. Use a fused jumper.
Harold McElraft - 3354
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 19:22:59 -0000
From: "gullwingmagazine" <gullwingmagazine@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crossed Drilled Rotors
List
These cross drilled rotors John is having done are the real deal!
Many of us have been asking for these and some of us have made our
own (some with success, some not). We will be installing a set of
these on the Project D in Gullwing Magazine and will report to you on
what we find.
And no, we are not affiliated with Johns company in any way other
than trying to support the D vendors when they come up something like
this :~}
Ron
P.S. Place an order for a set of these rotors (or anything over
$500) and John is giving away a set of door struts as a bonus.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Group, If you haven't noticed the web site lately, it's growing. I
> just added Power Stop High Performance Crossed drilled rotors for
the
> Delorean. All the information about them is on the web site.
> I have 2 sets of 4 and if the responce is good I will have more
done.
> If your not into cross drilled, I also have added the standard
rotors
> to the online catalog as well. They are in stock also.
> John Hervey
> www.specialtauto.com
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 16:48:10 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean side/front ground effects?
Does anyone have a set of side ground effects (the one's with the vent
towards the rear tire) or a front rubber ground effect for sale? I have the
low side ground effects but they don't have the vent opening towards the
rear, so if anyone has some for sale or looking to trade, feel free to email
me.
Thanks!
Duke
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 18:02:48 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: BONK!
I finally got a chance today to take some pictures of the damage. I
used multiple angels since the sun glare and shadows can be decieving.
Here they are... I hope it can be repaired! :(
http://67.85.150.154:81/temp/dmcdents/index.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2003 11:08 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] BONK!
ughh....
I took my car out for a spin tonight, and went by my mothers house. I
left the car parked out front while i was visiting, and low and behold,
the neighbor across the street backed into my driver door. :(
Damage is not too bad...couple of small dings on the lower bottom left
of the driver's door near the edge of the door and fender with one
larger "impression" of about 6 inches to the door panel (in the same
area) and a small ding to the front fender on it's edge.
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 22:45:42 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: sharing car show experience
Congratulations - It is fun to show them off isn't it?
Harold McElraft - 3354
> I won third place in the specialty sedan category- I was one of
three cars, no other DeLoreans (I was pitted against a Lotus Europa
and a 1937 Riley, which I've never heard of). I also won a prize in
a special category, the DeLorean achievement award. The British car
guys saw fit to give me a box of Brillo steel-wool pads as an award.
I didn't have the heart to say what the pads would do to the car if
I used them...
>
> Just wanted to share a good time, I've been an owner since
September '02 and an ethusiast for years, and I've having more and
more fun with the D each day.
>
> Eric Itzel
> vin 4433
> Sevierville, TN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 19:55:05 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Crumple Tube section wanted
Hi List,
If anyone knows of a parts car that has a good crumple tube extension
please let me know. I need to replace mine before the radiator falls off. I
also have a front left fender I would be willing to trade for a perfect
crumple frame section.
Drop me an email at delorean17(at)aol.com
Thanks
Dave,
Michigan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 19:43:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: AC quits working when the car stops moving?
On Sun, 4 May 2003, Harold McElraft wrote:
> Can you determine the amp draw at the clutch (SB 3.2 amps)? The reason I
> ask, the clutch runs on the fan 1-2 circuit (fuse 10 - a common meltdown
> fuse), if any of the connections are loose or weak you will get a weak
> clutch engagement.
Thanks for the tip. You were right. If I connect my ammeter across the
clutch circuit and turn on the AC, it draws 2.5 A. If I connect the
clutch directly to the jumpstart post, it draws 3.4 A. Definitely looks
like a weak circuit.
I'll pull out the wiring diagram and start looking it over. Any tips on
hunting this gremlin down?
-andrew
#4115
Houston TX
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 01:39:03 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Crossed Drilled Rotors
The main purpose of having cross-drilled rotors is to improve the
cooling to reduce brake fade. One common draw-back to cross-drilling
is the noise that you get. Some will find it objectionable. Since the
Delorean does not have a ventillated rotor it should improve cooling,
reduce warpage, improve straightline stopping distances and extend
brake pad life. Some shops will not cut a cross-drilled rotor, it is
hard on the cutting bits. On race cars these problems are not
important but on a street car they might be.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "gullwingmagazine"
<gullwingmagazine@xxxx> wrote:
> List
>
> These cross drilled rotors John is having done are the real deal!
> Many of us have been asking for these and some of us have made our
> own (some with success, some not). We will be installing a set of
> these on the Project D in Gullwing Magazine and will report to you on
> what we find.
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 5 May 2003 04:33:33 +0200 (MEST)
From: Talks to god <5n-@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 175 MPH speedometer conversion
All you have to do is replace the gauge. The new speedometer comes
recalibrated so you can use it with the stock angle drive and cable, nothing else is
changed but the speedometer unit itself in the dash. When you buy the
conversion, you tell them what to set the gauge at. Hope this may help you. Dan
Benedek
--
+++ GMX - Mail, Messaging & more http://www.gmx.net +++
Bitte lächeln! Fotogalerie online mit GMX ohne eigene Homepage!
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