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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
2. Deloreans for sale?
From: AdamRayVaughn@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Need Tire Recommendations
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
4. Ticking sound from rear brakes
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Lamda system mandatory?
From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. Re: A few brake questions
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
7. RE: Ticking sound from rear brakes
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
10. Squeeking from right front wheel
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Deloreans for sale?
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: A few brake questions
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes_Archived issue
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re: Need Tire Recommendations
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. SELLING DELOREAN
From: Jgslamesa@xxxxxx
19. Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Gas Flap.
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. DeLorean Car Show Magazine 2nd issue
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
22. Re: Re: Deloreans for sale?
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
From: "Jerry" <jlharry@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Digest # 1434 Tool Source Correction
From: heningerandassoc@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 06:23:19 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
After running thru a little "cocktail" comprised of Berryman's Chemtool, and
Bardhal FI detergent, the engine actually did indeed run cleaner. The HC's
dropped down to 380ppm at idle. Unfortunetly, that still means that it failed.
Sooo, I tried adding in some denatured alcohol. Lo and behold, the emissions
became worse than before!!!!! Dammit! Maybe I did something wrong, but I've
had it up to here trying the "better living thru chemistry" route of automotive
repairs. I'm not going to put my motor at any more risk by trying to run
distillates and detergents thru it.
So it's back to the drawing board, and doing what I refused to admit that I had
to do before: actual repair work. I'll see about pulling the sparkplugs, and
inspecting them for not just fouling, but variations between themslelves
individually, as well as following the procedures for checking the equal output
of the fuel injectors. I've no test tubes, nor baby food jars lying around, so I'll
need to wrangle some up. Along with the regular testing for vacuum leaks on
the rubber hoses.
So far though, here is what I do know:
I have NOT replaced anything on the system at all this year. All of that was
done last year. The mechanic determined the problem to be caused by faulty
sparkplug wires, that had bad shielding, and were arcing around a couple of
plugs. While I didn't care for the plugs wires, and tend to agree they were a
problem with a test light I used on them myself, I don't believe that this was the
root cause of the problem. I firmly believe that the repairs made last year didn't
fix the problem, so much as they simply reset the delay on it again, in order for
it to remanifest. Since this had occured, all ignition components were
replaced with BOSCH cap, rotor, spiral wires, and copper plugs.
Now we know what symptoms this repair treated, but what in the hell is the
cause of it? It's either a weak spark, a fuel system imbalance, or a vacuum
leak somewere. I do know that I have a bad diaphram in my mode control
switch that will hiss unless I bump the knob, and then it goes away. I'm unable
to remove the Cold Start Valve, as the screws stripped themselves as I tried to
remove them. However, I shoved some q-tips in the tube where the Idle
Speed Regulator fits. I ran the fuel pump for 30 seconds, and all were dry
when I pulled them out immediatly. The fuel injection system is 3 years old
now, and was installed by Garden Grove (the final garage the car went to
when the previous family decided to finally send the car to a specialist, and
not just all the various hole-in-the-wall garages where it had been before). So
if there is a descrepency with the injector output/spray pattern, is it better to
clean them, or to replace them? John Hervey sells a remaned set for only $80
which is quite temping.
In addition, I have these questions as well:
1. With the higher output ignition coil, it's was reccomended that I should
increase the gap of the plugs. This I can handle, but would it be to my
advantage to use BOSCH +4 plugs? And if so, which ones should I get to
accomodate the new gap size?
2. How do I go about adjusting the ignition timing if nessisary? Has anyone
done this without removing the intake manifold? And with the new coil, and
variance in spark plug gap, is this something else that I should adjust as well?
3. At what point have all options been exhausted, and repairs/replacements
been made that the mixture screw needs to be adjusted? I'm not trying to
touch the thing, I just want to make sure that I can stay away from having to
touch it as possible.
4. For performing the Valve adjustment, and/or if I had to remove the intake
manifold to repair vacuum leaks, what are the approximate times/procedures
involved? Since I've only one car, and I'm having to borrow garage space to
boot, I need to budget time even stricter than my pocketbook.
If anything good came out off all this today, I did end up finally meeting a
fellow DeLorean owner in the wild as I left the smog check station! If it was
indeed fate, then it sure had a funny way of manifesting itself!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 02:33:09 EDT
From: AdamRayVaughn@xxxxxxx
Subject: Deloreans for sale?
Just checking again to see if anyone is interested in selling an
Automatic Delorean. I am located in Philadelphia, Pa and interested in cars
on the east coast. Please let me know if anyone is selling one.
Thank you,
Adam
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 06:58:45 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need Tire Recommendations
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi Nick,
>
It will be good to know the proper replacements for the tires. For
some of us having collector plates on our cars, we at least aim for
high 90s when it come to authenticity on parts on the car. My
insurance will be completely cancelled and waived if it ever got in
an accident and my policy is no longer valid because I did not abide
to the rules and conditions for collector status insurance which is
often 50% less than regular insurance and used for pleasure only, not
business.
My rears were improperly aligned and will need to look for a good
replacement in that size soon.
Bye
John"E"
> I'm in need of a pair of front tires in the AVS Intermediates. Can
you
> still get them? How much?
>
> I'd appreciate any info!
>
> Mark N
> VIN 6820
>
> At 05:30 PM 4/16/2003 EDT, you wrote:
> >I have a contact that has the correct size AVS Intermediate tires
for the
> >fronts for our cars. I tried getting an order together a few
months back,
> >but no one was interested. I've been trying to find a source for
the rears,
> >but to no avail so far.
> >
> >Later,
> >Nick Pitello
> >1852
> >15914
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 06:53:28 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ticking sound from rear brakes
For the longest time (several years now), I am getting a ticking
sound from my rear brakes. It disappears when I apply brakes. Maybe
something is loose but when the car is idle it is soo difficult to
check for sounds that are only there when you drive the car. Before I
yank off the wheels and wiggle each brake component, is there anybody
out there that can nail this one right on the head for me so I do not
have to fiddle with it for hours, guessing my way to a solution!!
Bye
John"E".
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 10:27:59 +0200 (CEST)
From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lamda system mandatory?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
wrote:
Thats wrong! K-Jetronic doesn't need a Lambda-System. Pull your
Lambda-Relay and your engine runs without the Lambda-circuit. If it
sputters, something is wrong with your fuel system. I was told by a
Bosch servie-engineer that the lambda-circuit only eliminates the
'peaks' in the engine emissions, basic engine adjustment should made
with deactivated lambda circuit.
My DeLorean runs great for the last years without Lambda-relay (because
my Lambda-computer seems to be bad). Never had any problems with my
K-Jetronic with deactivated lambda-circuit.
> Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 00:47:12 -0000
> From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Lamda system mandatory?
>
>If the fuel system has no Lambda then it is not K-jetronic. I doubt
>if the engine could pass an emissions test in the US.
>
>Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 13:20:38 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A few brake questions
I hope mine look that good at rebuild time. If mine look that good I
will rebuild them. I'm not sure why the caution about the calipers
disassembly except it is of course very critical to reassemble the
halves with care (clean, properly aligned)- what torque will you use
on the bolts?
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm currently changing out the front brakes, and had a few issues
crop up
> during the procedure.
>
> I was planning on fixing up the calipers with new seals. One of
the pistons
> had almost seized, and the others weren't moving too freely. This
made
> stopping an awkward & noisy process.
>
> First issue: I separated the calipers to facilitate the rebuilding
process.
> Then I noticed the note in the shop manual that says something
like "do not
> ever even think about separating the calipers". It this a genuine
concern?
> If not, are there recommended torque values for the bolts?
>
> Second issue: I'm not sure what constitutes a bad caliper
piston/bore from a
> good one... So I took a few pictures:
>
> http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/Delorean/brakes/caliper.jpg
(72k)
>
http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/Delorean/brakes/caliperpiston.j
pg
> (44k)
>
> All of the calipers look like the one pictured, but the piston
shown is the
> worst of the bunch (which doesn't seem too bad). The caliper
bores are
> smooth to the touch.
>
> So, are these salvageable, or should I order in some new ones?
>
> Anybody actually used the 76 Capri calipers? They're only $70 at
Murrays...
> Much easier on the wallet than most sources.
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Luke/10270
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 09:29:36 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Ticking sound from rear brakes
Sounds like a warped rotor. My front left does the same and I plan to
replace it very soon.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Elgersma [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 2:53 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Ticking sound from rear brakes
>
> For the longest time (several years now), I am getting a ticking
> sound from my rear brakes. It disappears when I apply brakes. Maybe
> something is loose but when the car is idle it is soo difficult to
> check for sounds that are only there when you drive the car. Before I
> yank off the wheels and wiggle each brake component, is there anybody
> out there that can nail this one right on the head for me so I do not
> have to fiddle with it for hours, guessing my way to a solution!!
> Bye
> John"E".
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 13:43:27 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
Robert
Copper plugs? - You should have Bosch HR6DS or HR6DP (silver or
Platinum).
You haven't said anything about the lambda system. Is it working?
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 13:54:09 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes
This is a common issue on DeLoreans. The rear brake pads "flop"
around when the rear caliper pistons back of after braking. The pads
are setting free and the rotors are never true enough to keep the
noise down. PJGrady sells a kit with some light springs that keep
the pads back and stationary which stops the clicking. Quick and
easy fix.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxx>
wrote:
> For the longest time (several years now), I am getting a ticking
> sound from my rear brakes. It disappears when I apply brakes.
Maybe
> something is loose but when the car is idle it is soo difficult to
> check for sounds that are only there when you drive the car.
Before I
> yank off the wheels and wiggle each brake component, is there
anybody
> out there that can nail this one right on the head for me so I do
not
> have to fiddle with it for hours, guessing my way to a solution!!
> Bye
> John"E".
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 13:57:53 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Squeeking from right front wheel
Hey guys....I have a squeek from my right front wheel when I make a
right turn. The squeek is literally that a squeek that is continuous
just like a squeeky wheel on a kid's tricycle. Any ideas as to what
to check?
As usual..thanks in advance for the help..
Michael
Vin# 2944
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 14:41:28 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Deloreans for sale?
Adam,
Best place to check is the DMC News website at www.dmcnews.com
There is an automatic currently listed in Wilkes Barre, PA and
looking down the list, two automatics in NY and FL, one in IN.
Two others that were recently listed (and sold) out of Ohio.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AdamRayVaughn@xxxx wrote:
> Just checking again to see if anyone is interested in
selling an
> Automatic Delorean. I am located in Philadelphia, Pa and interested
in cars
> on the east coast. Please let me know if anyone is selling one.
>
> Thank you,
> Adam
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:12:15 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A few brake questions
You can separate the caliper halves. You will need to replace the "O"
ring that seals the halves together. There is no torque value, just
get them TIGHT. If the bores have no pitting get a brake hone and
lightly clean them up. Unless the pistons look PERFECT, that is no
pitting or chrome flaking, they should be replaced. Of course new
piston seals are required and maybe the bleeder screw. Before assembly
wet all of the parts with Castrol GTLMA DOT 4 brake fluid.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I'm currently changing out the front brakes, and had a few issues
crop up
> during the procedure.
>
> I was planning on fixing up the calipers with new seals. One of the
pistons
> had almost seized, and the others weren't moving too freely. This made
> stopping an awkward & noisy process.
>
> First issue: I separated the calipers to facilitate the rebuilding
process.
> Then I noticed the note in the shop manual that says something like
"do not
> ever even think about separating the calipers". It this a genuine
concern?
> If not, are there recommended torque values for the bolts?
>
> Second issue: I'm not sure what constitutes a bad caliper
piston/bore from a
> good one... So I took a few pictures:
>
> http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/Delorean/brakes/caliper.jpg (72k)
> http://labwww.csv.cmich.edu/luke/auto/Delorean/brakes/caliperpiston.jpg
> (44k)
>
> All of the calipers look like the one pictured, but the piston shown
is the
> worst of the bunch (which doesn't seem too bad). The caliper bores are
> smooth to the touch.
>
> So, are these salvageable, or should I order in some new ones?
>
> Anybody actually used the 76 Capri calipers? They're only $70 at
Murrays...
> Much easier on the wallet than most sources.
>
> Thanks for any help,
> Luke/10270
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:21:56 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
Everybody wants "Mechanic In A Bottle"!!!! There are no shortcuts
here, if you can't pass an emission test then something isn't working
right!
Start by cleaning and regapping the spark plugs. Pull the fuel
injectors and have them cleaned and tested. Fix ALL vacuum leaks. If
the mileage is high adjust the valves and replace the O2 sensor.
Change the air filter. Drain your "cocktail" of fuel and put in fresh
premium gas. You can easily check the timing and if you have to you
can reach the distibuter to adjust it. When you pull the fuel
injectors you will probably need new injector seals, you will need the
copper seals anyway. A properly set-up and running Delorean easily
passes emmisions testing. You should see a big improvement in your gas
mileage too.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> After running thru a little "cocktail" comprised of Berryman's
Chemtool, and
> Bardhal FI detergent, the engine actually did indeed run cleaner.
The HC's
> dropped down to 380ppm at idle. Unfortunetly, that still means that
it failed.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:44:23 -0000
From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes_Archived issue
I checked the archives. Messages 30715 and 30708 really deal with
this issue. Sorry for the posting guys! Wil do my homework first!!
John"E".
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> For the longest time (several years now), I am getting a ticking
> sound from my rear brakes. It disappears when I apply brakes. Maybe
> something is loose but when the car is idle it is soo difficult to
> check for sounds that are only there when you drive the car. Before
I
> yank off the wheels and wiggle each brake component, is there
anybody
> out there that can nail this one right on the head for me so I do
not
> have to fiddle with it for hours, guessing my way to a solution!!
> Bye
> John"E".
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 08:29:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Need Tire Recommendations
Re front AVS Intermediates:
I have TWO sets of front AVS Intermediates. They are
used, but have GREAT tread, no cupping or misalignment
wear, no plugs, etc. In my case, my rears wore out
much too soon and when I replaced them, I had a whole
new set of four put on. Thus, TWO sets of fronts.
Make me an offer (off list) - my wife would love to
see them get out of the garage.
Dick Ryan
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 14:34:05 -0000
From: "dmcmike2002" <billsfanmd@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
This may not help you but in MD we have emissions testing every other
year and they have a $ cap in how much you need to spend trying to
fix your emissions. I believe if you spend $150 or more on repairing
your emission and still fail you get a waiver. Check and see if
Nevada has such a waiver. Emissions testing has been very
controversial here in MD ever since they started the program. The cap
is so that people don't go broke trying to fix there car for the
emission test...
Mike C
2109
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:32:54 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes
You can jack up the rear of the car, take the wheels off and put into
gear to spin the rear wheels looking for the noise. It will be either
the c/v joints or the brake pads. If it is the c/v joints they will
have to be disassembled, cleaned, inspected for wear, reassembled,
lubed and reinstalled. Look the rubber boots on the joints over
carefully for any cuts, tears, or holes. If a boot is cut it should be
replaced immediatly! A boot is a whole lot cheaper than a joint! If it
is the brake pads you have what is known as "threading". This is a
condition where the pads follow the rotor like a phonogragh needle,
rising and falling as the rotor turns and clicking as they fall. The
cure is to roughen up the surface of the rotor to break the pattern,
it might require cutting the rotor to do it. Often you can scuff the
surface enough with an electric drill and a 3" pad with 80# sandpaper.
Also break the glaze on the pads with a light sanding. New anti-squeal
shims might also help and you might have to replace the pins if they
are worn thin. If the pads are very worn just replace them. The
venders sell a brake kit that includes the pads and all of the
hardware you will need.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> For the longest time (several years now), I am getting a ticking
> sound from my rear brakes. It disappears when I apply brakes. Maybe
> something is loose but when the car is idle it is soo difficult to
> check for sounds that are only there when you drive the car. Before I
> yank off the wheels and wiggle each brake component, is there anybody
> out there that can nail this one right on the head for me so I do not
> have to fiddle with it for hours, guessing my way to a solution!!
> Bye
> John"E".
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 14:10:16 EDT
From: Jgslamesa@xxxxxx
Subject: SELLING DELOREAN
I MUST SELL MY DELOREAN DUE TO MOVING WITH NO PARKING, SOME SPECS:
1981, BLACK INT., 5 SPD., 8,100 MI., SMOG AND REGISTERED, 95% REFRESHED, VERY
GOOD CONDITION. $11,900 O.B.O.
IF INTERESTED CALL/EMAIL JOHN AT 858-673-0932 [SAN DIEGO, CA.]
JGSLAMESA@xxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 18:30:49 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ticking sound from rear brakes
A warped rotor would not usually be noisy. The symptom of a warped
rotor is a pulsating brake pedal and or a pulsation in the steering
wheel when you apply the brakes. Very easy it confirm with a dial
indicator. You must first rule out a bad bearing if you check the
rotor on the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> Sounds like a warped rotor. My front left does the same and I plan to
> replace it very soon.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 13:29:54 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gas Flap.
Here are some pictures of the hood flap installed.
BOB
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:19:21 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Car Show Magazine 2nd issue
Well the second DeLorean Car Show Magazine it now available and I will be
stuffing the envelopes today and throughout the weekend so if you have a
subscription you can expect it within the next 14-16 days
The magazines are going media class and from the last batch it seemed like
the 3-7 days the post office said it would take actually was a bit longer so
be on the lookout for it.
If you did not receive a magazine on the first issue and paid for it or if
you don't get this second issue in at least 21 days please contact me.
The mail tends to eat magazines.
If you haven't orded them yet or just forgot to we still have issue 1
available.
See the subscription information on Deloreancarshow.com and hit the magazine
tab.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 12:32:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Deloreans for sale?
Adam,
I'm like 100 miles north of you in Effort PA near
stroudsburg. If you need any help let me know. Thanks
Todd
Vin 5386
(almost have the new site done :D)
--- d_rex_2002 <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Adam,
>
> Best place to check is the DMC News website at
> www.dmcnews.com
> There is an automatic currently listed in Wilkes
> Barre, PA and
> looking down the list, two automatics in NY and FL,
> one in IN.
> Two others that were recently listed (and sold) out
> of Ohio.
>
> Later,
> Rich W.
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AdamRayVaughn@xxxx
> wrote:
> > Just checking again to see if anyone is
> interested in
> selling an
> > Automatic Delorean. I am located in Philadelphia,
> Pa and interested
> in cars
> > on the east coast. Please let me know if anyone
> is selling one.
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Adam
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
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>
>
=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 19:31:18 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
Do you have someplace suitable OUTSIDE in which to work? Maintain
eight vehicles without even a carport myself. Restricts you to fair
weather mechanicing, but is imminently doable.
Until you get some plugs out, does your exhaust system yield any
combustion clues? Any residue, dry or wet, in the tips? Let exhaust
bounce off a piece of white paper held by the tips to see what it
catches. After dark, shine a flashlight beam across exhaust flow to
highlight subtle smoke not visible in broad daylight.
Cap off all vacuum devices as you diagnose (mode switch is powered by
3/8" takeoff on passenger intake rail). Remember that not all vacuum
leaks are located at hoses. That's why you need some spray carb
cleaner to check various manifold connections themselves.
BTW: what kind of fuel economy are you getting? If your engine is
mistuned, you should see big drop.
BBTW: David T is correct -- you should use EITHER idle speed motor OR
brass screws in upper air assembly, but not BOTH. Can switch back and
forth, but only one idle system at a time.
Your questions in order:
1) I prefer low resistance plugs with high voltage coils. Allow as
close to full voltage as possible to jump bigger gap (spreads more
fire around cylinder). Also allows timing closer to TDC. Don't know if
"performance" plugs can do the same. By the time juice has fought all
that resistance, what's left to ignite the fuel? On a properly tuned
engine electricity is all you need. My plugs are 6 ohm Delcos gapped .38".
2) Timing is adjusted by rotating distributor. LOOSEN (not remove) the
hold down nut (11 mm) and move entire unit. Rotor button moves with
camshaft, so what you're adjusting is relative position of spark plug
terminals to camshaft position. Access rather difficult with idle
speed motor in the way (sorry, couldn't resist) but doable with long
pattern flat wrench. Timing mark is a notch on crankshaft pulley,
measured against scale bolted slightly on passenger side of block. My
engine timed 10 degrees BTC. You don't touch intake manifold (can't --
engine has to be running).
3) Fuel mixture screw isn't poisonous -- you CAN touch it (see message
#32067). In fact, regarding recent threads Re: disabled Lamda system,
imagine would need to adjust for altered fuel distributor dynamics
(lower chambers). I just wouldn't look there first (unless someone
else has been turning it...)
4) Have never adjusted PRV valves (actually tappets that push on
them), but don't look any different from other adjustable valve
trains. Time consumed isn't going to be actual adjusting -- is going
to be digging down to valve covers, then putting everything back.
You'll also lose time removing/replacing muffler to access big nut on
crankshaft to turn engine. Rotate timing mark to TDC on compression
stroke (watch cylinder 1 intake valve to open & close), then adjust
valves identified in tech manual. Tappet adjusts just like idle speed
microswitch bolt on throttle plate bracket. You want feeler gauge to
BARELY scrub tappet and valve stem. Will adjust half of intake valves
and half of exhaust. Then rotate engine 360 degrees and adjust other
half. Gaps are in tech manual.
Moderator may not let all this through (besides, I need to GET BACK TO
WORK!), so email me direct (brobertson(at)carolina.net) if you want to
discuss further.
Stick with it. Unless engine hopelessly worn or cracked, you're just
dealing with out-of-tune adjustments.
See now why I recommend doing your own mechanic work?
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> After running thru a little "cocktail" comprised of Berryman's
Chemtool, and
> Bardhal FI detergent, the engine actually did indeed run cleaner.
The HC's
> dropped down to 380ppm at idle. Unfortunetly, that still means that
it failed.
> Sooo, I tried adding in some denatured alcohol. Lo and behold, the
emissions
> became worse than before!!!!! Dammit! Maybe I did something wrong,
but I've
> had it up to here trying the "better living thru chemistry" route of
automotive
> repairs. I'm not going to put my motor at any more risk by trying to
run
> distillates and detergents thru it.
>
> So it's back to the drawing board, and doing what I refused to admit
that I had
> to do before: actual repair work.
[Moderator snip]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 04:28:21 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
From: "Jerry" <jlharry@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
Robert;
For just a few cents you can plug the vac going to the front mode switch and
remove that as a problem. Since you said it leaks, just plug the line where
it comes out of the rider side of the intake manifold. Just a short hose
with any kind of plug and you can forget vac leak at the mode switch. This
is very easy to do and will close that leak for you, because if you hear a
leak, pressing on the knob does not stop it. May not hiss but it is still
leaking vac.
Jerry
#4890
-------Original Message-------
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thursday, April 17, 2003 07:54:55 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Update#2. Re: Failed Emissions Inspection. AGAIN!!!!!
After running thru a little "cocktail" comprised of Berryman's Chemtool, and
Bardhal FI detergent, the engine actually did indeed run cleaner. The HC's
dropped down to 380ppm at idle. Unfortunetly, that still means that it
failed.
Sooo, I tried adding in some denatured alcohol. Lo and behold, the emissions
became worse than before!!!!! Dammit! Maybe I did something wrong, but I've
had it up to here trying the "better living thru chemistry" route of
automotive
repairs. I'm not going to put my motor at any more risk by trying to run
distillates and detergents thru it.
So it's back to the drawing board, and doing what I refused to admit that I
had
to do before: actual repair work. I'll see about pulling the sparkplugs, and
inspecting them for not just fouling, but variations between themslelves
individually, as well as following the procedures for checking the equal
output
of the fuel injectors. I've no test tubes, nor baby food jars lying around,
so I'll
need to wrangle some up. Along with the regular testing for vacuum leaks on
the rubber hoses.
So far though, here is what I do know:
I have NOT replaced anything on the system at all this year. All of that was
done last year. The mechanic determined the problem to be caused by faulty
sparkplug wires, that had bad shielding, and were arcing around a couple of
plugs. While I didn't care for the plugs wires, and tend to agree they were
a
problem with a test light I used on them myself, I don't believe that this
was the
root cause of the problem. I firmly believe that the repairs made last year
didn't
fix the problem, so much as they simply reset the delay on it again, in
order for
it to remanifest. Since this had occured, all ignition components were
replaced with BOSCH cap, rotor, spiral wires, and copper plugs.
Now we know what symptoms this repair treated, but what in the hell is the
cause of it? It's either a weak spark, a fuel system imbalance, or a vacuum
leak somewere. I do know that I have a bad diaphram in my mode control
switch that will hiss unless I bump the knob, and then it goes away. I'm
unable
to remove the Cold Start Valve, as the screws stripped themselves as I tried
to
remove them. However, I shoved some q-tips in the tube where the Idle
Speed Regulator fits. I ran the fuel pump for 30 seconds, and all were dry
when I pulled them out immediatly. The fuel injection system is 3 years old
now, and was installed by Garden Grove (the final garage the car went to
when the previous family decided to finally send the car to a specialist,
and
not just all the various hole-in-the-wall garages where it had been before).
So
if there is a descrepency with the injector output/spray pattern, is it
better to
clean them, or to replace them? John Hervey sells a remaned set for only $80
which is quite temping.
In addition, I have these questions as well:
1. With the higher output ignition coil, it's was reccomended that I should
increase the gap of the plugs. This I can handle, but would it be to my
advantage to use BOSCH +4 plugs? And if so, which ones should I get to
accomodate the new gap size?
2. How do I go about adjusting the ignition timing if nessisary? Has anyone
done this without removing the intake manifold? And with the new coil, and
variance in spark plug gap, is this something else that I should adjust as
well?
3. At what point have all options been exhausted, and repairs/replacements
been made that the mixture screw needs to be adjusted? I'm not trying to
touch the thing, I just want to make sure that I can stay away from having
to
touch it as possible.
4. For performing the Valve adjustment, and/or if I had to remove the intake
manifold to repair vacuum leaks, what are the approximate times/procedures
involved? Since I've only one car, and I'm having to borrow garage space to
boot, I need to budget time even stricter than my pocketbook.
If anything good came out off all this today, I did end up finally meeting a
fellow DeLorean owner in the wild as I left the smog check station! If it
was
indeed fate, then it sure had a funny way of manifesting itself!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 19:21:53 EDT
From: heningerandassoc@xxxxxxx
Subject: Digest # 1434 Tool Source Correction
The 7mm stud extractor is available from mscdirect.com ( 800-645-7270 )
Part No. 09923483 , $ 28.57
Byrne Heninger
Vin 15244
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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