To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 7 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Aftermarket car stereos_ Blaupunkt CD From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> 3. Re: DeLorean Floatation Device From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming. From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Power Steering From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. Was Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. Now Locking Module From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> 7. Exhaust Studs, what torque? From: "schab932000" <schab932000@xxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 19:52:47 -0000 From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. I think the position you are referring to is the spot the fan fail relay plugs into. This is not in any way for the door locking module. It should have something in there or the cooling fans won't work. As far as the locking module not functioning, unless you have something better than the origional locking module to use just unplug it and forget about it. It could be it has already failed, possibly frying the door solenoids. If you know for a fact the door was removed, it is VERY hard to reinstall a door and get it lined up well. It is kind of like working in reverse, when the car was made all of the other panels were adjusted to fit to the doors. When you replace the door the temptation is to try to adjust the door to the ajacent panels, not always successful. You should put together an order to one of the Delorean venders. In it include 2 oil filters, 1 now and another for later but most important a Workshop Manual! You can't do things on the car "by the book" if you don't have one! David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg@xxxx> wrote: > Also david im having a problem trying to figure out > why the door locks are not operating the coneection to > the modules are fully intact around the fuse box and > checked all fuses. there is a missing square i think > is a relay the square that has the connector holes > that the relay plugs into is absolutely blue and is > located on the far left of the board that had like > five lined relays in a row that then come close to > abutting the fuse box. My question is the pale blue > square that has the little holes is that for the power > door locks?? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:20:02 -0000 From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Aftermarket car stereos_ Blaupunkt CD Aftermarket stereos is something you can experiment with. As there are so many different makes & models out there, I decided to find something that looked clean, refined, unnoticeable and blend into the dash colors. I have yet to see anything that even comes close to the Blaupunkt CD Receivers. I since then restored my Delorean back to the Craig system because of collector status/insurance. The RPDA9000 model was black with white lettering and some red and blue on the front panel as well. These colors matched the main switch panel in the center console really nicely.I have seen quite a few aftermarket stereos in Deloreans and they all stick out like a real aftermarket system. If you want a modern system for a Delorean that does not look ultra modern but conservative with all the features, try Blaupunkt. If CD players were available for the Delorean in 81, this is probably what it would have looked like. Even the steering wheel wireless remote looks good in the car. Blaupunkt makes a not too flashy system so that theft is ruled out as it looks stock even in a Delorean, this modern system blends in. I will have a picture posted soon. John ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 01:30:49 -0000 From: "John Elgersma" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: DeLorean Floatation Device The German-made Amphicar from the sixties might be your better choice for a floating car. These little twin-prop vehicles, again mostly made for the US market are cute. Almost bought one myself for $1000 for restoration but decided to buy Delorean instead. Maybe we should tell Rich to make a Delorean boat. If you have not seen his stuff, go look at: http://www.entermyworld.com/rich/ Have fun! ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:21:09 -0600 From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: Clock and A/C light dimming. > eliminating the AC bezel light completely during the day. > The panel now just illuminates when I turn on the lights. Another way to achieve this was posted to the list by Jim Reeve a while back. Just get a 12V/30A 4-spade relay from Radio Shack and put it in the third slot from the left in the row closest to the rear of the car. Your AC bezel will only light when the headlights are on, and the existing red resistor will dim it for easier nighttime viewing. I've been running this setup for about a year and I'm quite pleased with it. _______________ Todd Masinelli VIN 6681 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:32:58 -0600 From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Power Steering Some of us have looked into this issue. The big problem is that the tube in the frame is too small for a power R& P. However, if you get one of the new Pearce SS frames you might be able to get a larger tube installed. On the other hand if you wanted to reworked the stock D frame you might be able to accomplish this. BOB ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 02:55:12 -0000 From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> Subject: Was Re: My "New to Me" Delorean. Now Locking Module The locking module will stay activated if the adjustment inside the door deteriorates. The safe thing to do is put a 10 amp circuit breaker in place of the original CB. Once the power goes out it resets. It is a good fail safe and protection for the circuit. Proper functioning isn't affected by the low amp CB. Harold McElraft - 3354 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > The locking module will fail locking you in the car, killing the > battery and burning up the solenoids in the doors. Until you can > upgrade either by getting a Lockzilla or reworking the module it is > safer to disconnect it. > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jaimie Mackenzie <jmacberg@xxxx> wrote: > > David why do you want to disconnect the locking module > > i presume that is for the door locks? > > > > > > > > --- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > > > Check to see that the lambda circuit is operating ... > > > > <snip -- excessive quoted material removed> > > > > > ... the fuses. Save up for at least a Fanzilla and > > > disconnect the locking > > > module. > > > You are on your way to the TOTAL enjoyment of a > > > Delorean. > > > David Teitelbaum > > > vin 10757 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 01 Apr 2003 03:18:40 -0000 From: "schab932000" <schab932000@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Exhaust Studs, what torque? Thanks for everyone advice on romoving those exhaust studs. In the end, it was a combination of a lot of PB Blaster (like liquid wrench), a stud extractor (looks like a normal socket, but with spiral inners that grip onto the stud) and a propane torch. I did buy some freezer spray as well, but I think the torch never got things hot enough to take advantage of the spray. I ground down the manifolds to smooth the gasket surface. However the edges are rusted pretty good so I can't take them down without loosing a bunch of steel. Some areas around the exhaust holes have only about 1/4" of flat contact surface to the gasket. Is this okay? Next question, when putting the new studs back in, do I just hand tighten them and when I eventually put the manifold and nuts back on, will it set itself. Or should I double nut the studs and torque the studs in, remove the nuts, then put the manifold on then put the nuts back on? Finally, what torque do these studs need to be at. Thanks again, Pat vin5552 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>