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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Funky power dip
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: DeLorean & Lagonda
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
4. slight door adjustment necessary?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Funky power dip
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: NCDMC Announcement - DMC Garden Grove visit
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Re: Funky power dip
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: slight door adjustment necessary?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. V-1 radar detector
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: heningerandassoc@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Missing Louver Style...
From: Scooby <chinatown_film@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Wacky Interior Lights
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: V-1 radar detector
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
14. Re: V-1 radar detector
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Re: slight door adjustment necessary?
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Wacky Interior Lights
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 08:46:18 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Funky power dip
It sounds like a dance, doesn't it?
I noticed when I was driving at night this past weekend that occasionally
I'd get a dip in the headlights and interior dash lights. I couldn't see any
dip in the voltage (steady at 14). There was nothing that I could see that
corresponded with the dip (engine surge, etc).
Anyone else seen this before?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 13:56:45 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
An issue on removing the old pop rivets. I've done this 3 or 4 times
over the years and I don't remember worrying so much about the
torsion bar as I did drilling through the door when removing the old
pop rivets. I've seen that damage and it would ruin my day if I did
that. I used a 3 inch putty knife inserted down inside the door
behind the rivets and between the door frame and door skin to block
any slip. I figured a $5 bit was worth the sacrifice if I slipped.
The last time I did this replacement I used the softer aluminum pop
rivets as replacements. I couldn't tell a difference and the next
time I take them out I hope they will be easier - which is yet to be
known.
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 08:31:00 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean & Lagonda
There is also another model made by Lagonda in 1980 which is also on the same
web. It is named the "Bulldog." There were only two made and it does has
"gullwing" doors. A sleek, mean and powerful looking for a 1980 vehicle.
Check this sight:
<A HREF="" href="http://www.astonmartins.org/v8/bulldog.htm">http://www.astonmartins.org/v8/bulldog.htm">Aston Martin Picture Gallery - Aston Martin Bulldog</A>
<A HREF="" href="http://www.astonmartins.org/v8/bulldog.htm">http://www.astonmartins.org/v8/bulldog.htm">http://www.astonmartins.org/v8/bulldog.htm</A>
Hey, would the Delorean DMC-12 look like the Bulldog if it was "flatten?"
;-)
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
==========================================
In a message dated 3/26/03 8:12:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> Thanks for the link. On their "Gallery Page" (
> http://freespace.virgin.net/roger.ivett/pix.html ), there is a picture of a
> Lagonda next to a Delorean - and the caption is "13359 &an imposter".
>
> -Hank
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 11:17:23 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: slight door adjustment necessary?
List,
last fall i had my pass side torsion bar tightened by one spline. of course
i first checked my struts which were ok. this caused the pass side door to
open just like the driver's side, all the way up. this winter while working
on the car i was having a little difficulty closing the pass side door all
the way because for one reason or another the second final latch latch on the
rear of the door was having a tough time engaging. i figured it was just the
cold. well now that the car is out and it is spring, the door closes
perfectly every time however i am having trouble opening the door. if I try
to open it by the door handle, it is very tight and almost feels like it will
break. however, if i slightly press in on the door on the molding right
behind the handle, it opens perfectly.
what type of adjustment is necessary to correct this? i'm afraid a passenger
will break my door handle!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 16:37:05 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Funky power dip
Check the wiring for loose, overheated connections. Also check all of
the ground points for clean tight connections. Make sure nothing is
melting in the fuse box too. It could be just the normal cycling of
the fans. If you don't have a Fanzilla both of the fans will kick on
at once and drag down the voltage for a second till the alternator can
catch up. You might also notice somethinmg like this if you run the
A/C, when it cycles not only does it force the cooling fans on it also
puts a direct load on the motor which the idle system corrects. You
will notice this more as the engine runs slower, less noticable when
moving faster. The only cure is a good battery, good wiring and a
Fanzilla.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> It sounds like a dance, doesn't it?
>
> I noticed when I was driving at night this past weekend that
occasionally
> I'd get a dip in the headlights and interior dash lights. I couldn't
see any
> dip in the voltage (steady at 14). There was nothing that I could
see that
> corresponded with the dip (engine surge, etc).
>
> Anyone else seen this before?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 09:53:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: NCDMC Announcement - DMC Garden Grove visit
There's been a lot of talk lately on the DML concerning the top door
seals. At the NCDMC tech session this weekend, Don and Dan will be walking
Alex and me through the correct way to do this. We'll be sure to take lots
of photos. Keep your eye on the NCDMC website next week.
-Christian
On Wed, 26 Mar 2003, ryanjm10014 wrote:
> The NCDMC is proud to be hosting Don and Dan from DeLorean Motor
> Center this weekend in Mountain View, CA. The pair have generously
> donated their time to come on up for work on club cars. Don will be
> demonstrating how to change a fuel accumulator, which is useful
> knowledge for any owner, and we'll be following up the afternoon
> work with some dinner and entertainment.
>
> We'd like to thank Dan and Don in advance for their services and let
> the group know in case anyone locally missed the message or if
> anyone else would like to join us. Please e-mail me privately for
> any further details or see our club website at www.ncdmc.org.
>
> Ryan
> #10014
> NCDMC
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 12:04:36 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Funky power dip
Excellent.
I recently had the lovely melted fuse box but I repaired it with the pig
tail. At the same time the relay/fan fix had melted, but it is now repaired.
My guess is the fans cycling. That seems to make the most sense. I will
listen for the fans during long distance driving at night and see if that is
indeed the cause.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Funky power dip
>
> Check the wiring for loose, overheated connections. Also check all of
> the ground points for clean tight connections. Make sure nothing is
> melting in the fuse box too. It could be just the normal cycling of
> the fans. If you don't have a Fanzilla both of the fans will kick on
> at once and drag down the voltage for a second till the alternator can
> catch up. You might also notice somethinmg like this if you run the
> A/C, when it cycles not only does it force the cooling fans on it also
> puts a direct load on the motor which the idle system corrects. You
> will notice this more as the engine runs slower, less noticable when
> moving faster. The only cure is a good battery, good wiring and a
> Fanzilla.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 18:11:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: slight door adjustment necessary?
You will have to try experimenting with the adjustment of the anchor
pins. When you close the door and slam it, it crushes the door seals.
Depending on how tight you crush the seals it may make it harder to
open the door. It could be the seals are hard and you are closing too
tight, you may need new door seals before you can properly adjust the
anchor pins. The torsion bar and the strut don't have a whole lot to
do with this as much as the anchor pins holding tight against the door
seals. Do not try to compensate for worn door seals by closing the
door tighter against them. Also make sure the head of the anchor pin
is not hitting the edge of the door. If you have to, remove washers to
keep the head from hitting, the latch should only capture the side of
the pin, the top of the head shouldn't rub, the sides of the head
should not even hit the guide.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> List,
>
> last fall i had my pass side torsion bar tightened by one spline.
of course
> i first checked my struts which were ok. this caused the pass side
door to
> open just like the driver's side, all the way up. this winter while
working
> on the car i was having a little difficulty closing the pass side
door all
> the way because for one reason or another the second final latch
latch on the
> rear of the door was having a tough time engaging. i figured it was
just the
> cold. well now that the car is out and it is spring, the door
closes
> perfectly every time however i am having trouble opening the door.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 12:01:33 -0500
From: "Henry" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: V-1 radar detector
Hello All,
I just got a Valentine-One detector with the concealed display, and want to do a wired install into my D. Has anyone else done this, and if so, do you have any suggestions for location of the display and wiring hookup?
Thanks,
-Hank #1619
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 15:31:39 EST
From: heningerandassoc@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Exhaust stud removal
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The subject of this post was updated to more accurately reflect the content of the message]
_Pat,
Sears a 7mm stud remover.
Byrne
15244
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 21:57:58 +0000 (GMT)
From: Scooby <chinatown_film@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Missing Louver Style...
>Although sometimes called the sun-shade, the manual says that the
louvres
were added to decrease the car's coefficient of drag.<
According to 'Dream Maker', they were added to the car after Mr. DeLorean saw and liked their use on a prototype Esprit.
---------------------------------
With Yahoo! Mail you can get a bigger mailbox -- choose a size that fits your needs
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 14:36:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wacky Interior Lights
My interior lights seem to have taken on a mind of their own. They now stay on all the time, along with the buzzer. I tried unplugging the door sensors... but that did nothing. They lights started acting funny a few months back. I could go around a really hard corner, and they'd turn on for about 10 seconds. But as of yesterday... they stay on all the time when the car's running. I can turn the car off and shut the doors and the lights stay off though. Anybody have any clue as to what's up?
Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford/Charlotte NC
_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
_____________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 18:37:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: V-1 radar detector
On Wed, 26 Mar 2003, Henry wrote:
> I just got a Valentine-One detector with the concealed display...
Excellent choice.
> ...and want to do a wired install into my D. Has anyone else done this,
> and if so, do you have any suggestions for location of the display and
> wiring hookup?
Yeah, I have. Point your browser at http://boom.net/~aos/photos/?album=20020222
for a number of photos of my install. I've found this positioning of the
remote display works great.
One tip for you... To keep your wire up under the headliner, wrap
electrical tape around it, sticky side out, every couple of feet to fatten
up the wire and make it a little sticky.
I've got a remote display installed in both my cars and I move the V1 unit
between the two.
-andrew
#4115
Houston TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 20:10:46 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: V-1 radar detector
Hank:
Yes, I have the V-1 in my DeLorean for the last six years and I have it wired
up in a nice and with a concealed set up with all of the three pieces. I
have built a housing for the main unit to mount it on the "T" section behind
and in between the driver and the passenger heads with NO drilling or
alteration to the interior. I will take new pics and send them to you on the
set up when I get my car back from PJ Grady this Friday.
FYI..... It is one of the best unit on the market for a "heads up" alert, so,
do use it with common sense and care. I got only "one" ticket with the V-1.
In that incident, the V-1 went off with an usual "very" short burst alert,
for the trooper was using the radar gun, standing perpendicular on top of a
hill, instead of parallel to the road. When he stopped me, he said: "It took
eleven minutes to catch up to me." He ask me "where I was going to at that
fast?" I told him "I was running very late and that I have a very important
dinner engagement with someone VERY important." I told him who the person
was and he thought I was kidding and he gave me the ticket anyway, for he
didn't want to hear about it.
All in all, it was the ONLY ONE time the V-1 let me down, out of the many
countless times that the unit had trigger off in the last six years with
85,000 miles of driving since the installation. BTW, I did get to beat the
speeding ticket.
Kayo Ong
#5508
===============================================================
In a message dated 3/26/03 5:55:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> Hello All,
>
> I just got a Valentine-One detector with the concealed display, and want
> to do a wired install into my D. Has anyone else done this, and if so, do
> you have any suggestions for location of the display and wiring hookup?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Hank #1619
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 23:22:40 -0000
From: "Christopher Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: slight door adjustment necessary?
I am in the middle of a similar situation.... I have just put a new pair of
gas struts on my doors and they lift perfectly now.
Even before I changed them my drivers door in particular would open
perfectly from the interior but not when you lift the outside handle. In
face my driver handle snapped!!!!!!
I have replace the handle with a reproduction in Zinc and 4 in 5 door
openings I can feel the back part of the door releasing but not the front
which results in the door lifting around 1/2 inch and then jamming. I have
to then walk around the car and lean in and lift the interior handle to open
it fully.
Having removed the door skin I can see the central lift latch moves all the
way across when activated via the internal handle, however it can be clearly
seen that when the outside handle is lifted it only moves about 40-50% hence
the jamming.
Tomorrow evening I shall try and find the fitting that links the outside
door cable to the central lift latch (rocker switch).
Regards
Chris Hawes
vin 5255
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 6:11 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: slight door adjustment necessary?
> You will have to try experimenting with the adjustment of the anchor
> pins. When you close the door and slam it, it crushes the door seals.
> Depending on how tight you crush the seals it may make it harder to
> open the door. It could be the seals are hard and you are closing too
> tight, you may need new door seals before you can properly adjust the
> anchor pins. The torsion bar and the strut don't have a whole lot to
> do with this as much as the anchor pins holding tight against the door
> seals. Do not try to compensate for worn door seals by closing the
> door tighter against them. Also make sure the head of the anchor pin
> is not hitting the edge of the door. If you have to, remove washers to
> keep the head from hitting, the latch should only capture the side of
> the pin, the top of the head shouldn't rub, the sides of the head
> should not even hit the guide.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> > List,
> >
> > last fall i had my pass side torsion bar tightened by one spline.
> of course
> > i first checked my struts which were ok. this caused the pass side
> door to
> > open just like the driver's side, all the way up. this winter while
> working
> > on the car i was having a little difficulty closing the pass side
> door all
> > the way because for one reason or another the second final latch
> latch on the
> > rear of the door was having a tough time engaging. i figured it was
> just the
> > cold. well now that the car is out and it is spring, the door
> closes
> > perfectly every time however i am having trouble opening the door.
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 20:05:06 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Wacky Interior Lights
In a message dated 3/26/03 5:06:17 PM Central Standard Time,
louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> My interior lights seem to have taken on a mind of their own. They now stay
> on all the time, along with the buzzer. I tried unplugging the door
> sensors... but that did nothing. They lights started acting funny a few
> months back. I could go around a really hard corner, and they'd turn on for
> about 10 seconds. But as of yesterday... they stay on all the time when the
> car's running. I can turn the car off and shut the doors and the lights
> stay off though. Anybody have any clue as to what's up?
>
> Louie Golden
> VIN 10115 Sanford/Charlotte NC
Louie,
Sounds like a problem with the door light switches. i would start by
checking all the wiring against the electrical diagram and make sure
everything is wired correctly. Also, make sure that the tabs on the
electrical connectors aren't hitting any other wires to make them cross.
I bet if you get all your door switch wiring straight the problem will go
away.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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