To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 6 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Vacuum Question From: dherv10@xxxxxxx 2. Re: Re: air inlet valve From: dherv10@xxxxxxx 3. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How? From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Re: car mysteriously died From: dherv10@xxxxxxx 5. Exhaust stud removal From: "schab932000" <schab932000@xxxxxxxxx> 6. RE: fuel pump replacement From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 18:10:40 EST From: dherv10@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Vacuum Question Low RPM's and the car would want to go but couldn't. Like something holding it back. John Hervey << Here's a quick question for you all.. What would the symptoms be of the vacuum hose being disconnected from the vacuum advance unit? >> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 18:35:31 EST From: dherv10@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Re: air inlet valve << My car has the air intake totally removed. Can someone explain an easy fix to correct this. (Lift it up and put it back on ) :-) Ha Ha Ha.LOL. Mike, I have no bolt on replacement for the air breather at this time. But if you can put it back on, don't replace the Hot air Valve back on the bottom. Get a 3" flex hose and run it from the bottom to the hole in the rear pontoon. Cooler air will be breathed by the car and it runs better. John The whole assembly was in bad shape so my friend and I removed it. I would like to try John Hervey's idea of just running a flex hose from the black air breather to somewhere to get outside air. Can John or someone explain an easy fix... Take a look at what I did. 2 7/8 not 3". John http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/reference-materials-2.html >> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 17:40:57 -0600 From: Todd Masinelli <tmasin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How? Here's how I did it: First, protect your torsion bars! Marty Maier improvised a clever solution when we were working on this in my garage. He took a plastic tube of a similar diameter to the torsion bar's, cut a slit along its length, and wrapped it around the bar for protection from the drill bit. Worked like a charm. Next, drill the heads off the pop rivets. Don't press too hard, otherwise you'll dent the top of your door. Now that the heads are off the pop rivets, you've still got the rest of them inside your door. You can't pull them out, of course, but they're too big to push in (or, again, you'll dent the top of your door). Pull them towards you as much as possible with a pair of needle-nose pliers. Once you have exposed as much as you can, use a cutting disk on a rotary tool to cut the shaft flush with your door panel. At this point, the remaining bits of the pop rivets are small enough to tap back inside your door. Don't worry, your doors won't turn into giant maracas...the bits of metal will either settle in somewhere snugly or fall out through the drain holes at the bottom of the doors when you open and close them a few times. Pop rivet the new seals in place, paying close attention to their orientation (the ones I bought from PJ Grady were conveniently labeled). I opted not to use the stainless steel pop rivets that Grady provided, because if I ever need to do this process over again I didn't want to mess with drilling and cutting stainless. Sure it's a hassle, but the new ones sure do look better than the old, split ones! Good luck, _______________ Todd Masinelli VIN 6681 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 18:44:51 EST From: dherv10@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: car mysteriously died Martin, I doesn't short out it by passes. I did the diagram because the relay isn't shown on the original diagram. The diagram shows the blue/ yellow going straight to the resistor on the left side with no relay. The relay was added to me for safety and to make sure the resistor got the appx 10.4 volts if cranking properly for the instance the solenoid was engaged. I think if you got down to 6 to 8 volts you may have a bad battery or a mighty big drain from the starter. I don't think the car would start with voltage that low. The diagram should be correct. My 11004 runs on this for the last year or so with no problems. John Hervey www.specialTauto.com << The ignition coil cannot take 12v, so the feed to the coil passes through those two resistors. However as we all know, cranking causes the voltage on the battery to drop - maybe to as low a 6-8v when not fully charged. And of course when cranking, the one thing you really want is a decent spark! So, the purpose of that relay is to short out one of the two resistors giving the coil more of the available voltage to create a spark. The supply to the relay comes strait from the starter solenoid. John Hervey has a diagram on his website but I think it isn't 100% correct. However, open or closed, that relay should not affect the coil getting a feed.... the only thing I can think of is that there's something seriously terminally wrong with that relay and it's grounding your coil feed! I suggest you cut off and re-crimp all the connectors going to the ballast resistors, and clean up all the contacts. Also replace that relay. I have a nice new sealed plastic one with integral blade fuse at 5A. My car now starts much better, especially on a damp morning. BTW all through your post I was thinking "fuel pump" until you noted that it started and shut down fine. This tells you immediately that the RPM relay is working correctly, which was my first guess based on your symptoms. >> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 01:16:29 -0000 From: "schab932000" <schab932000@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Exhaust stud removal I need some advise. I'm replacing the exhaust mainifold gaskets and everything was going okay, until it came time to remove the studs. I have standard vice grips which do nothing other than slipping around the stud. I went to Sears and Auto Zone to look for another type of wrench but found nothing. I've also heated the studs and used plenty of liquid wrench, but not luck. Any ideas? Pat vin 5552 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 19:46:43 -0800 From: "Darryl Tinnerstet" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: fuel pump replacement To answer the question about removing the fuel pump from the tank, on my supercharged car I made a stainless steel cap that goes where the fuel pump boot was, with a steel pickup tube welded in it. The cap is sealed with special fuel-resistant o-rings and a large s/s clamp. The pump, a low pressure one in my case due to now having a carb, is inside the frame where the fuel accumulator used to be. Works great. Darryl Tinnerstet Specialty Automotive McCleary, WA www.delorean-parts.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! 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