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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Fuel Pump Replacement
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
2. Does FanZilla use the Cooling Fan Breaker or not ?
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
3. RE: Adjustable Door Struts
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Fuel Pump Replacement
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Re: Does FanZilla use the Cooling Fan Breaker or not ?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Fuel Pump Replacement
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
7. 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
From: "Bob Hlavacek" <bob.hlavacek@xxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Fuel Pump Replacement
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
9. Re: New VIN list and production chronology uploaded
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Fuel Pump Replacement
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. South Carolina Door Adjustment Festival
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
From: vahottub@xxxxxxx
15. need a Vin check
From: "Trevor Johnson" <dmcboy1der@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. air inlet valve
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 06:06:32 -0000
From: "vegascop1" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Pump Replacement
Here is a question for all you tech guys. Has anyone ever replaced
the stock fuel pump with say an after market pump that doesnt go
inside the fuel tank? I believe the pump produces around 70-80 PSI,
right?
I am thinking about doing just that, so if anyone has any tech info
I would greatly appriciate it.
thnx
Ski 4649
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 09:46:45 EST
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
Subject: Does FanZilla use the Cooling Fan Breaker or not ?
Does FanZilla use the Cooling Fan Breaker or not ?
FanZilla has had an added feature which eliminates the need for the Cooling
Fan Circuit Breaker. The breaker does not need to be removed, replaced or
bypassed with a jumper.
It's no longer in circuit nor is it needed for anything.
How can I tell if my FanZilla is a Newer Series 2 unit ?
Inspect the 2 plugs.
If the plug with the shorter wire harness has an Orange wire, Black wire and
a Yellow wire in it, it's the Newer Series-2 FanZilla. If not, it's the
older Series-1.
What should I do if I have an older Series-1 ?
Over many years, the Cooling Fan Circuit Breakers have shown themselves to be
more trouble than they're worth. In my mind, it's a product quality issue.
These breakers shouldn't run hot, but more often than not, they do. This heat
creates problems of it's own. Complete breaker Failure is possible, but more
commonly, they will cycle off and on. Not good.
In theory, if you have a good dependable breaker, you should be in good
shape....... However, what constitutes a good breaker these days ? No one
really knows.
As a result, we've eliminated it from the "loop" completely.
How about just bypassing the breaker with a jumper wire?
Well, this in itself can open up a can of worms.
If you do this incorrectly ( poorly ) the wire or connections may become very
hot. Not good.
Secondly, you have now modified the car....
If you sell it, the next owner now has no breaker ( penny in the fuse box
)...... If the FanZilla is missing, the new owner might pop in ( God forbid
) an old Blue DeLorean Fan fail module. Now the system has NO electrical
protection at all. This is just 1 possible scenario.
I just don't recommend this.
I have a Series-1. Should I panic ?
Heck no. Speaking personally, I've changed my breaker twice in 20 years.
Other owner experiences will vary.
As DeLorean owners, we should all be keenly aware of engine temp at all
times. There are a great number of things that can cause overheating
ESPECIALLY in the summer heat.
However,
If you have a Series-1 FanZilla and would like it upgraded to Series-2 it can
be done for a modest fee.
For details email Zilla at ZillaDeLorean@xxxxxxx
Bob Zilla
DeLoreanParts.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 07:11:15 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Adjustable Door Struts
While we are "doodling" for something to operate our doors. How about
hydraulics. I had a new 48 Packard Convert (exactly like on BTTF) and it
had a hydraulic pump in the engine compt on the firewall with tubes running
everywhere.....first car I ever had with hydraulic windows, seat and
top....tremendous power in a small cylinder. Same were used on Fords in
those days. One time I sat on a window edge as I pushed the button and it
raised me right up in the air! Much power!! Would require safety
features of course. No opening of doors at 140MPH!!
Also our daughter came back from Japan a few years ago and said the Mercedes
car her host family owned had a gadget I would love....The grandpa pressed a
button up front and CLOSED the rear doors......she said also they were on
Taxi's they rode there....of course that would not need the pressure ours
would take.
Just thoughts FWIW.
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 10:38:35 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Replacement
Ski, Yes it has been done, but the trouble is the fabrication of the cap and
the tube that goes into the tank. A universal pump was used that mounted up
by the tank and the same pump that we use has been mounted by the fuel
filter. Several way to do it.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< Here is a question for all you tech guys. Has anyone ever replaced
the stock fuel pump with say an after market pump that doesnt go
inside the fuel tank? I believe the pump produces around 70-80 PSI,
right?
I am thinking about doing just that, so if anyone has any tech info
I would greatly appriciate it.
thnx
Ski 4649
>>
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 11:08:00 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Does FanZilla use the Cooling Fan Breaker or not ?
Group, I guess I will put in my 2 cents worth on all the talk about the
The Fan Fix Dual 2 x 2 that Special T Auto makes.
The Fan Fix has several features that has made The Fan Fix Dual 2 x 2 a
desirable Item. I won't go into all of them now but I will say we have never
used the wiring harness in the car to draw power from. Note I said wiring
harness.
Not even the circuit breaker. So, where does the power come from to run the
fans. Straight off the battery. That's why when you have purchased one of my
units you have had to connect a wire direct to the battery. This way it
relives the load from other parts of the harness of the car.
I don't had a second edition to adapt to this type of system but because I
have never used it on any of my products to begin with.
It's now been about 3 years and have had no problems. The circuit is rocket
science and can be built if your good with a soldering iron and can get the
parts.
Also , the price of the Special T Units Fan Fixes have always been very
affordable to purchase and are backed 100%. So, If the Fan Zill doesn't use
the circuit breaker to get the power from, where does it come from. I didn't
see the question answered.
P.S. If the web site doesn't give you all the answers your looking for then
call up till 10:pm for help.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com,
Home if the $129.95 Fan Fix Dual 2 x 2.
<< Does FanZilla use the Cooling Fan Breaker or not ?
FanZilla has had an added feature which eliminates the need for the Cooling
Fan Circuit Breaker. The breaker does not need to be removed, replaced or
bypassed with a jumper.
It's no longer in circuit nor is it needed for anything.
>>
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 13:25:38 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Replacement
In a message dated 3/22/2003 10:16:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
vegascop1@xxxxxxxx writes:
> Here is a question for all you tech guys. Has anyone ever replaced
> the stock fuel pump with say an after market pump that doesnt go
> inside the fuel tank? I believe the pump produces around 70-80 PSI,
> right?
> I am thinking about doing just that, so if anyone has any tech info
> I would greatly appriciate it
One question, why?
Regards,
Nick Pitello
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 14:21:52 -0500
From: "Bob Hlavacek" <bob.hlavacek@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
So 170 bar X (14.7 psi / 1 bar) = 2499 psi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Brandys" <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: AW: [DML] Adjustable Door Struts
> For those of us, who don't remember how to convert bar to psi, how much
> is 170 bar in PSI?
>
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 13:10:28 -0800
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump Replacement
To answer your question Nick is the stock fuel pump basically sucks. The
rubber that surrounds the pump deteriorates and if the boot that covers
it is not seated properly will leak water and that's when you find the
pump sitting in. That's what happened to me when I found it, I didn't do
it, that's how it was when I bought it. But anyways, I think that if you
have an external fuel pump it is easier to do the maint on it and you
don't have to worry about the very expensive rubber seal/boot/cover. I
think that's the route I am going, I just though maybe someone out there
already did that and I wouldn't have to do all that research. As soon as
I am finished I will be posting pics. I already have some good ideas.
Thnx,
Ski 4649
-----Original Message-----
From: njp548@xxxxxxx [mailto:njp548@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 10:26 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel Pump Replacement
In a message dated 3/22/2003 10:16:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
vegascop1@xxxxxxxx writes:
> Here is a question for all you tech guys. Has anyone ever replaced
> the stock fuel pump with say an after market pump that doesnt go
> inside the fuel tank? I believe the pump produces around 70-80 PSI,
> right?
> I am thinking about doing just that, so if anyone has any tech info
> I would greatly appriciate it
One question, why?
Regards,
Nick Pitello
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 21:17:49 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New VIN list and production chronology uploaded
Hello
I just discovered a Delorean here in France that's not listed on the
VIN chronology. It's #717, Black/auto. Stored for 10 years, great
project car. Maybe you could ad it to the list.
Raph
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 15:41:21 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
Can anyone verify that the struts are actually 2400 psi..
I find this difficult to believe. However, if one has ever had to lift
up the door without the strut I would estimate about 50 -60 lbs. of dead
weight. The other weight is handled by the torsion bar.
Now the strut is attached at a shorter radius, so this would multiply
the force by about 3 to 1 so the struct may be exerting a force of 100 lbs.
The area of the piston inside the strut is about 0.5 square inch. so
this would make it about 200 psi. Now compressing this about 10 to 1
this would make 2000 psi.
What this means is that an adjustable door strut may be possible because
you pressurize it when it is fully extended.
BOB
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 17:20:30 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Replacement
I don't doubt that a neglected car will have problems in the fuel pump area
but I've owned my car from new and have had no problems in almost 21 years.
I changed the fuel pump during year one only because the new style had the
external check valve. While doing that I painted all the electrical
connections on the pump with di-electric silicone to help fight
electrolisis. I just looked at the pump last fall and everything still looks
good. You can't ride these cars hard and put them away wet but if they've
had a little regular preventative maintenance throughout their life they're
very reliable. The problems you've experianced are because at some point the
gas was left in the tank for a prolonged period of time. If you drive enough
to cycle new gas through the system at least every couple of months I don't
think the original system will give you problems.
Bruce Benson
> To answer your question Nick is the stock fuel pump basically sucks. The
> rubber that surrounds the pump deteriorates and if the boot that covers
> it is not seated properly will leak water you find the
> pump sitting in. >
Thnx,
> Ski 4649
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 01:21:20 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: South Carolina Door Adjustment Festival
is now history. Bill Robertson, Travis Goodwin, Louie Golden and a
few other DML regulars met up for a quality afternoon of DMC-
tweaking. Even though Bill had to leave his car at home we still had
three show up. Read all about it in the "Gatherings" section of
DMCNews at
http://www.dmcnews.com/events/socarolina03/socarolina03.html
A good time was had by all.
Send in information and pictures on your events!
Dave Swingle
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 20:36:52 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
They are 1200 newtons.
John Hervey
<< Can anyone verify that the struts are actually 2400 psi..
>>
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 22:39:33 EST
From: vahottub@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
I have installed the same new switch for turnsignals, but found that it wont
flip off after making a turn. What needs to be done that wasnt upon
installation?
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 02:31:46 -0000
From: "Trevor Johnson" <dmcboy1der@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: need a Vin check
Hey, I am wondering if there is someone on the list with a current
carfax or similar account. I need a VIN check, for a friend and
thought maybe someone on here would be kind enought to help. Thanks
so much in advance!
(please respond off list, at dmcboy1der@xxxxxxxxxx, thanks!)
Trevor
4055 and 6974
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 20:04:51 -0600
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: air inlet valve
Hey-
I was tightening my body-frame bolts (and boy did they need it) and pulled
the air inlet valve off to get to that one bolt in the pontoon.
I noticed that it was still mostly closed allowing hot air even though it
was 70ish.
I then noticed that it didn't moved when I heated it up. Another aged part
to check, guys. There is a little indicator on the side that tells you what
air the valve is letting in at the moment, so you don't have to remove it to
check.
There not too expensive at my local part store (www.delorean.com) at about
$58, but unfortunately they're closed on Saturdays and Warren, James or
Stephen have failed to give me their home numbers for weekend parts. :D
So I pulled it off, fiddled around with it, lubed it, and freed it up some,
but it still wouldn't open fully to cold air. I adjusted the plastic nut and
got it to where I think it will operate better. I tossed it in the fridge
and noted that it closed fully, but it sure is slow to open up again.
What is the replacement schedule for these guys? What about regular
adjustments?
-Kevin
#4687
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