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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Head lamps
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
2. Owning these cars is more of a Stewardship than Ownership.......
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
3. RE: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
4. Re: final drive oil???
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: final drive oil???
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: A whole lot of reading going on
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Re: Remotes
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
9. Interesting Stainless Steel Information
From: mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
10. Keys
From: "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd@xxxxxxxx>
11. RE: engines
From: darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx
12. Re: Re: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Re: fuel system question
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
15. black interior parts for sale
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
16. Re: Remotes
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
17. Fuel System
From: "funkstuf <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Fuel System
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Head lamps
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
20. Interlocking Unit
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 15:51:40 -0000
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Head lamps
Sorry about that...
www.d-a-r-t.com
(928)772-1191
Ryan
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Classified <vegascop1@xxxx>"
<vegascop1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ryan,
>
> you said to contact DART, but you didnt provide web address or
> phone...do you know any of them?
>
> thnx for any info you can provide,
>
> Ski 4649
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 11:12:57 EST
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
Subject: Owning these cars is more of a Stewardship than Ownership.......
BRAVO ! (Brian McCabe & Harvey 5830 )
I don't believe that there's a better way to say it. This is it, in a
Netshell.
Brian Said ( and it's worth repeating ):
> The gentleman who is so down on the vendors also refers to his DeLorean as
> "Devil Car" and feels no responsibility to continue the car's existence in
> any way. I feel just the opposite about my collector cars. These cars
> (including Harvey) are bit of automotive history and need to be preserved
> in
> their original state or as close thereto as possible. I greatly enjoy
> having,
> driving and showing off these cars, but I also look upon owning these cars
> as
> more of a stewardship than ownership. It is my responsibility to maintain
> and
> preserve them during my tenure of ownership. Remember that in only three
> more
> years DeLoreans with become officially recognized antique automobiles by
> the
> Antique Automobile Club of America.
Bob Zilla
DeLoreanParts.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 11:33:03 EST
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
Also in line with what the moderator said it seems that the person posting
inder the email "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" could better utilize their
time being positive instead of casting numerous negative comments. At the
very least have the grit to sign your emails with your name if you feel so
strongly about your points. If not I would not even approve these posts.
Probably the reason you are posting anonymously is that you would rather
cause conflict than be constructive.
Gary Gore
<<[Moderator Note: I'd like to believe that I speak for everyone on the DML
when I agree with something Bob says below.? The parties involved could do
tremendous good, both for the DeLorean community and the Parkinson's Disease
charity, by cooperating to discuss and correct any errors rather than arguing
about them on the DML.? - Moderator Mike Substelny]
Dear? Unknown author? > checksix3??
This is not the 1st time I have seen you post this message and
I am disturbed by it:
> "His schematic was an admirable endeavor for charity reasons,
> even if it's rife with errors that should have been corrected."
Listen to yourself.
You believe ( as do we ) that great things are being accomplished by the
DeLorean owners acting as a whole. Raising $5,130 is no small undertaking.
If you feel that there are any significant updates needed to be added to the
schematic how about sharing the wealth ?>
ALSO
> Dear unknown author (checksix3 jetjock11@xxxxxxxx )
>
> It's clear from the last paragraph of your post you really do understand
> the
> value
> of the Plug and Play concept.
> I'm glad.
>
> (checksix3 jetjock11@xxxxxxxx ) Said:
>
> > Then again, maybe I'm just too stubborn to know better. After
> > analyzing the failure mode of the stock Fan Fail Module and
> > modifiying it, I continue to use it with full confidence. Having said
> > that, I'll likely purchase a FanZilla for it's additinal benefits and
> > because it's value is worth the time it would take me to design and
> > fabricate a similar device. As I've said before, this car isn't
> > rocket science but there are times it's just easier to buy something
> > already elegantly designed than to screw around with doing it
> > yourself, even if one can. It's up to each of us to make that choice.
> >
> >
> > Bob Zilla
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 16:46:01 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: final drive oil???
My car developed a wobble noise a few months ago. It seems to be
coming from the rear.. somewhere. I have already ruled out tires,
wheel bearings and cv joints, next is final drive. I inspected it and
it does appear to have a slow leak at the sides/bearing seals. I
think it might be low. I havent checked it though cause i cant find a
tool to fit in the drain plugs...
adam
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "stitsien <stitsien@xxxx>"
<stitsien@xxxx> wrote:
> 80/90 is what I use but then again there will be peace in the
middle
> east before everyone agrees on what fluids to use on there De
Lorean.
> Just out of curiosity why are you changing it?
> Matthew Stits
> Vin 0789
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam <acprice1@xxxx>"
> <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hello, I have an automatic and I want to change the final drive
> > fluid. The technical information manual that i have says to use
GL-
> 5,
> > but it doesnt give a weight. What weight should I use for the
final
> > drive? Is 80-90 okay? Thanks.
> >
> > Adam 16683
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 16:49:14 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: final drive oil???
Where could i get a magnetic plug?
Adam
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxx>"
<jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> 80-90 weight gear oil is fine. Refer to Workshop Manual G:05:01 for
> the full procedure. You do have a Workshop Manual don't you? If not
> make put it on your next list of things to order from a Delorean
> vender. The 2 things to this are having the "special" wrench and
> draining the fluid after driving the car so the old fluid can drain
> out easier. Another thing you could do is replace the stock drain
plug
> with a magnetic one if it hasn't been changed yet.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam <acprice1@xxxx>"
<acprice1@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > Hello, I have an automatic and I want to change the final drive
> > fluid. The technical information manual that i have says to use
GL-5,
> > but it doesnt give a weight. What weight should I use for the
final
> > drive? Is 80-90 okay? Thanks.
> >
> > Adam 16683
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 09:29:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A whole lot of reading going on
(Moderator: Yes this is off topic. BUT, this door has
been opened way to many times to not allow this
response.)
Whoa! Listing books about the DeLorean is certainly on
target for this list. The rather constant touting of
Amazon is not.
Used/out of print books are as readily available
through your independent bookseller as through Amazon,
B&N, etc. Neither of those entities really stock
used/out of print books. They acquire them from
specialty booksellers and resell them to you.
As an independent bookseller, we can/do the same thing
and most independent booksellers do as well.
Buy local! Yes, it will cost you sales tax, but there
isn't a state in the nation that isn't in a budget
crisis right now.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
Off The Beaten Path
Bookstore CoffeeHouse BakeryCafe
--- "treehouse2000us <treehouse2000us@xxxxxxxxx>"
<treehouse2000us@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Today I recieved 6 parcels of books coming from all
> over the country,
> several books about our beloved DeLoreans, totaling
> less than $25
> including shipping.
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 10:40:11 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Remotes
Re remote operations of our D's. Six year ago I researched these and had
the "Auto Command" by Design Tech installed in my car. Of course prices
have changed and for the better now. They had many options from a Remote
start ONLY, to the full blown unit. Unlike modern cars, the D did not have
all of this stuff so I opted to go that route. It has almost too many
features to write down, but includes the remote start of course, plus remote
lock/unlock, full alarm system, Headlight operation, relays for remote
opening of hood and trunk and anything else you can think of. It has all
kinds of fail safe features, such as, if someone presses the brake it shuts
down the remotely started engine.....any doors, trunk etc opened also shuts
down the engine.
When I say I had it installed, that is not exactly right. I had it done by
a good friend who does installation of all kinds of audio, remote systems
etc and people bring him their fancy Mercedes and Rolls from 500 miles away
to do installations...He is GOOD. However he was a bit shy of taking on the
D until I convinced him I could show him where everything was and assist
with leg work. I am experienced with a lifetime in electronics, but my age
(81 ) precludes me bending much any more so I have to hire people to do
THAT. Ha. I got a huge wiring diagram which he put on his shop wall and I
went back many times to show him physically were components were located and
we researched things together. There were something like 17 connections
to be made as I recall.....I was around him a lot of the time and know he
did not goof off at all. HE was even excited about doing this to the D.
However unlike modern day charges I hear about.......even with me assisting
a LOT, his total bill including the unit was an even $500 ! I had no
argument about it as I saw what he did.....he had scopes and all the
electronic and test equipment and knew what things needed. He found a
pulse too short to operate the door solenoids properly so added a relay. I
KNOW why and what he did and have it all documented. His wiring from front
to back of the car was immaculate...no skimping or hurry up stuff and
everything heavy duty.
Three years ago I had him install just the remote start in our Lincoln
Continental...His charge was $250 turnkey.....I never even went by until he
was done......since that time I have seen ads where some are installing them
for less....but it makes me wonder how many of the "fail safe" features are
included. Mine just plain took time and was NOT a simple job like the ads
highly tout.
Both of mine have worked flawlessly and I have no complaint. I am trying to
talk my friend into installing the so called "door launchers", but he is
very busy. I wish someone from the D clan would drive up to my front door
sometime and tell me they are here to do that installation!! Ho Ho.
Just thought that might put some of the recent discussion into perspective
as to do-it-yourself versus pay someone to do it.
Murray
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 19:45:48 -0000
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
"Zilla's toughest critic really gets it"
Huh? Where did that come from? Thats the problem with this medium,
it's not very effective at communicating intent or true meaning.
Bob, I'm FAR from a critic (tough or otherwise) of your products.
It's clear they're well designed, accepted, supported, and fullfill a
need for the non-technical among us. Yes, I do see the "value" of
plug and play but harldy from an engineering stantpoint. As an
engineer you must know that plug and play, while effective and a
great marketing ploy, is a poor way to solve engineering problems.
While easy to install it's still a patch. A integrated and properly
documented solution is a far better way to go.
Your products clearly serve a purpose for what seems to be a large
percentage of the D community: non-technical folks who don't have the
skills and want the convienence plug and play offers. Time and money
are interchangable, after all. The Zilla products offer simplicity
and ease of use. Thats one problem with them, by design they
constrain those of us who either want more functionality or don't
wish to wait until someone brings a product to market. (For example
the door openers or programmable tranny governor on my car)
I understand you're in business to make a buck and won't accept
criticisim (real or imagined) of your products easily, but to state
they're the best solution for every owner shows more ego and less
engineering sense than I would have expected. However, your products
serve the masses well and I'll be the first to recommend them.
As for the schematic, I appauld your charitible efforts, plain and
simple. Since mine is little more than a copy of the factory one with
a color coding legend added, the errors are not your's. I was only
implying you had the oppurtunity to correct the most blatant factory
mistakes and choose not to. (It certainly is easier to read those
errors however ;-) Btw, as an EE you must know that *any* error in a
schematic can be significant.
Your troubleshooting guide? Again, I applaud you. But for those of us
more versed in the car it's oversimplified and not very
comprehensive. I'm surprised it took so much development time, it's
quite simple in scope. It also treats the symptoms, not the disease.
Engineer those problems away and the guide is not needed. (No Zilla
solutions for them? ;-) But again, a good item for the non-technical
among us.
I meant no disrepect to you or your products in earlier posts and I
still don't. They just aren't for everyone. The only one I own (a
Tankzilla) leaks like a sieve around the sender's top but thats a
mechanical problem, not your fault.
Btw, a question for you: I designed interlocking on my remote door
opening system to prevent operation above a specific vehicle speed.
Do you intend to take the same precautions or are you assuming the
doors will always be locked by the driver? Do you trust the RF
circuits that much? (I wouldn't, rolling code or not ;-)
> It's clear from the last paragraph of your post you really do
understand the value of the Plug and Play concept. I'm glad.<<<
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 15:06:58 -0500
From: mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Interesting Stainless Steel Information
[Moderator Note: This link approved on technical merit. It doesn't appear to be a thread starter. - Mike Substelny, DML moderting team]
http://www.ssina.com/SSINA2002/SSINAsite/publications/index.htm
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 16:38:52 -0500
From: "Lowery, Dennis [C]" <loweryd@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Keys
I went to a Locksmith yesterday and had my Delorean Houston key blank ground
to match my existing key. While I was there I asked if he had any key blanks
available for a spare. He checked his book (Ilco car & truck, 2002)and the
Delorean was listed as taking a Volvo X29 key blank ( plain metal,
rectangular head, reads VOLVO VL5 on one side and X29 E.S.P. Lock Corp. on
other). I had him grind me one. When I got home both the Houston key and
the Volvo key works perfectly.
BTW... He did indicate that the Volvo key was the only one listed for the
Delorean... I guess this means that if you have a one key system (one key
works both the door locks and ignition) it should work for you, but if you
have the 2 key system (separate keys for the door locks and the ignition) I
don't think this will help.
Oh...I would highly recommend you get the Houston key...It looks great!
Dennis Lowery
Vin. 4797
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 14:32:42 -0800
From: darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: engines
"Putting a heavy cast iron engine in the rear of a DeLorean can also be a
safety hazard. 300 ft -lb of torque into 1st of 2nd gear can easily
bring the front end off the ground and you can loose steering control."
"The people with SB Chevys add 100+ lbs of lead to the front end to keep
in on the ground. With the engine and the lead weight your D is now 200-300
pounds heavier and slower."
In a word, horsefeathers. Have you seen a SB Chevy-powered DeLorean lift its
front tires? I think you would break something long before you are able to do
that. Trust me on that one. Using your figures the added weight due to the
motor would be the equivalent of an average passenger. The weight difference
is hardly noticeable, and with the car properly lowered it will out-handle any
stocker. If properly set up there is absolutely no need for "100 lbs of lead"
in the front of the car. "Heavier and slower"??? A little heavier, maybe.
Slower, I don't think so. Anyone wishing to compare can come check out that
previously mentioned nearly-empty freeway just outside my front door.
For those who may not be familiar with my supercharged car, check out the
photos at delorean-parts.com. Also note that due to changing interests and the
desire to try something else, this car is now available for adoption.
Darryl T.
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:32:56 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
Dear "jetjock11":
I am interested in your "interlocking unit" and I would like to add this
device to my DeLorean. Will you be marketing this unit for sales??? If you
do, can this unit be added in conjunction with the LockZilla or do I have to
replace it completely with yours? Will your unit be "plug and play?" Or
will it have to be a "project" to install it???
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
In a message dated 2/27/03 4:35:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jetjock11@xxxxxxxx writes:
>
> Btw, a question for you: I designed interlocking on my remote door
> opening system to prevent operation above a specific vehicle speed.
> Do you intend to take the same precautions or are you assuming the
> doors will always be locked by the driver? Do you trust the RF
> circuits that much? (I wouldn't, rolling code or not ;-)
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 18:02:24 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: fuel system question
i can not believe how much help i got with my question about what the fuel accumulator
does and its function. now can anybody tell me where to look for a muffler bearing or
how to put brake grease on to stop the squeaks when i hit the brakes.... ha ha ha.
thank you all
mark
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 01:15:14 -0000
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Zillas Toughest Critic really gets it.........
Gary,
My posts are not meant to be negative. I may need some lessons in
tact but my aim is to communicate as effectively as possible.
I applaud the moderators approval of my posts. Considering
their heavy handed history at times, I find it a refreshing change.
As for unsigned posting, I fail to see how signing my name (or not)
lends any weight to my posts either way. But if you insist, my name
is the same as your's. There, does that make it different now?
To the many folks who've emailed me I promise to get back to all of
you but it'll take time. Your mods will work as well as mine (100% of
the time, rain or shine, because they've been engineered to do so)
and you won't need to be a rocket scientist to install them. (lol, or
a vendor either.)
I *thought* thats why we were all here, to help each other. That it
was the main purpose of this list. Course, I could be wrong.
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2003 20:20:51 -0500
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: black interior parts for sale
List,
i did some work on my interior this winter and I have a couple parts that might like a good home:
1. Driver's side upper door trim. black. excellent shape except it needs new fir-tree clips - most are broken and a couple of them have pulled thru the fiberboard backing. it is repairable though. $30 + shipping.
2. Passenger side knee pad. excellent shape except there is a crack about as long as a quarter on the top of it. very slight sun fade on the top (the part that is in the same plane as the dash). two or three of the studs on the back need to be superglued into place. perfect candidate for easy restoration. $30 + shipping.
pics made available upon request.
Andy
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 01:45:48 -0000
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Remotes
Murray, there is a big difference. Like most people, you chose an
alarm system for reasons like features and then your friend was
forced to "adapt" it to the D. I chose my system specifically to
match the D's wiring in an easy way and still gve me all the features
I wanted. For example, my box was chosen because it uses .5 second
output pulses for the door actuators and locks.
In other words, I did all the engineering *before* I choose a model
of alarm box. I spent days analyzing different manufactuers boxes and
schematics. I then chose one that I could intergrate into the car's
wiring with a minimum of fuss that I knew would work perfectly. It's
all in the engineering effort put in before a single wire is cut.
(Not what usually happenes.)
The result? Everything you mentioned with a mininmum of work and 95%
of that in the relay compartment. No scopes, no fancy test gear,
nothing but time and the car's schematic (as bad as it is) was needed.
It isn't that hard, especially if you have someone who's done all the
engineering and documentation beforehand. It's why my mail box is
full of messages from owners smart enough to realize that. You went
it alone and your pal charged you to boot.
Btw, there are $20 modules that will solve an astounding variety of
install problems like your friend encountered. A good installer
should know about them. My favorite is the PAC TR-7 Universal Trigger
Output Module, an impressive device for the number of things it does.
I didn't need any of those because I did the legwork first, but it
sure beats building something custom to solve a problem like that.
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 02:34:04 -0000
From: "funkstuf <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel System
As of today, I am the proud owner of a Delorean.
It arrived at my house in Washington State from New York.
Situation: As I knew when I purchased this vehicle. The car starts
and idles, but, give it gas and it dies.
Where should I start? What should I do? tell me everything. Thanks
Dale Funk
funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 04:26:59 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel System
Start in the gas tank. Remove the old fuel and clean out the tank.
Make sure the baffles and pick-up are installed correctly. Check the
pick-up hose to make sure it isn't to soft and collapsing or is kinked
when installed. Next make sure the frequency valve is buzzing on the
right side valve cover. If not check the relay that sends power to the
Lambda ECU and the fuses. It could also need a tune-up replacing the
spark plug wires, spark plugs, and cap and rotor. I would change ALL
of the fluids and filters too. Get it to move then after checking the
tires for proper pressure go for a test drive and shake out all of the
other problems!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "funkstuf <funkstuf@xxxx>"
<funkstuf@xxxx> wrote:
> As of today, I am the proud owner of a Delorean.
> It arrived at my house in Washington State from New York.
> Situation: As I knew when I purchased this vehicle. The car starts
> and idles, but, give it gas and it dies.
> Where should I start? What should I do? tell me everything. Thanks
> Dale Funk
> funkstuf@xxxx
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 04:56:19 -0000
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Head lamps
I recommend anyone considering changing their headlights educate
themselves. There is a lot to know about this and many people simply
get sucked in by hype. For example, there are no legal or safe
conversions to HID using aftermarket lenses unless the lenses are
designed for the HID capsules used. The Sylvania Xenarc HID kit is
the only one I know of that offers this for the Delorean's H4656
sealed beams. Buying housings and installing HID capsules not
specifically designed for them will make for a pretty to look at
light but the beam quality will be near useless and dangerous. Use
the Xenarc kit or stay with white halogen in the 4000-5000K color
range.
If you're going to upgrade your headlights it's best to go with H4
halogen lamps in aftermarket housings (of which only a very few are
DOT approved) and stay away from the blue filtered bulbs. (There are
a few filtered bulbs that are legal and safe but they still perform
worse than clear halogens.) The rest (a vast majority) of the blue
filtered halogens being hyped these days are a scam and put out less
lumens than clear lamps. In addition, the wavelength emmited will
cause problems in rain and fog. Improving the wiring will go a long
way too. A voltage drop of only a few percent will cut lamp output by
a large amount.
Also, true HID has been shown to not neccesarily be the best "kind"
of light for driving. Again, the best method is to edjucate oneself
with the knowledge to make a sound decision based on science and not
pretty headlights or hype. How the human eye responds to light is a
very complex subject and has been intensely studied in the aviation
world. There is much information to be had on the web, I recommend
Sylvania's website or any site that is more interested in informing
you than taking your money. A good place to start is here:
http://lighting.mbz.org
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 05:54:39 -0000
From: "checksix3 <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>" <jetjock11@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Interlocking Unit
[Moderator Note: Subject line changed by moderator for easier back issue reference. - Mike Substelny, DML moderator team]
Kayo,
I will not be offering it for sale and even if I did it would not be
plug and play. It was designed as an add on to my off the shelf
system. Since the combo alarm/remote start/keyless entry unit I
choose was not designed to include built in door launching (but had
the aux outputs I was looking for), it was the only part needed that
had to be built. It's simple enough though and is combined with the
easily available minature relays needed to power the door actuators.
As for interfacing it with the LockZilla I'm assuming you're refering
to Bob's soon to come door launching module. Without knowing how it's
executed I couldn't answer that, I'd have to see one. In short, your
asking me to design onto a device that has not been released yet.
Since Bob's gadget will be plug and play there is no way for me to
know exactly what he's done. (Fwiw, I earlier designed a system that
used the same wiring as the door solenoids but discarded it because I
needed new wires in the door for other reasons.)
You could simply interlock when the ignition is on but then you
couldn't open a door after a remote start. I will however be glad to
tell you a very simple method of interlocking such a circuit using
an "and" function of ignition on and key in. This prevents door
launching when the ignition is on using the key but still allows
launching your doors with the ignition on after a remote start, if
you're so equipped. It will require slight work on the cars wiring,
not altering it per say, just tapping into two wires. I'd also need
to know exactly what you have installed if that time comes. This is
much simpler than speed sensing as the D has no easy way to sense
speed. (Mine works off my remoted governor electronics.)
I wouldn't worry too much about it, I seriously doubt Bob would
market a launching setup that didn't incorporate some form of safety
to prevent your car's doors from flying open at speed. It was a
design criterion of mine from the beginning and I was just fooling
around. I'm sure the Zilla unit will have some logic in it to handle
that issue.
>>I am interested in your "interlocking unit" and I would like to add
this device to my DeLorean. Will you be marketing this unit for
sales??? If you do, can this unit be added in conjunction with the
LockZilla or do I have to replace it completely with yours? Will
your unit be "plug and play?" Or will it have to be a "project" to
install it???<<
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