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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Insurance Cost
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: PARTS AND REPAIRS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
From: "Steven G. Rogers" <steven.rogers@xxxxxx>
3. Re: PARTS AND REPAIRS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Rust
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Get performance!!!
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: no door locks
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: PARTS AND REPAIRS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
From: Mike Hirko <mikehirko@xxxxxxx>
8. Hard Starting.
From: ledgend2@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Insurance Cost
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. rear shock replacement
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Rust
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Tires
From: nellymac1@xxxxxxx
13. Electrical connections on Water Pump job
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Repair shops\ battery cut off switch\ cooling fan question
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: magazine featuring DeLorean
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Rust
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: John DeLorean
From: cwirz@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
18. More fuel system problems
From: sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Boston Area (and CT ) repair shops?
From: "Raymond McKay" <raynet@xxxxxxxx>
20. Re:Door Lock solenoids
From: burkephoto@xxxxxxx
21. custom front grille
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Hard Starting.
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. \ battery cut off switch\
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Repair shops\ battery cut off switch\ cooling fan question
From: Tamir Ardon <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. DeLorean Speech success
From: "Joshua " <fehl1@xxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 14:01:12 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Insurance Cost
This is not true in New Jersey. Your liability rate changes with the
car you drive, based on the statistics that have been collected on they
model car. In New Jersey, they go as far to include options on the car
in the equation.
IMHO, this is "stereotyping" and should be just as illegal as if they
charged you a insurance rate based on your race, religion, or color!
Marc
william kay wrote:
>
> In most cases, "sports cars" are no more expensive to insure than regular
> cars. Some idiots will even tell you "If your car is red it will be more
> expensive to insure." The bottom line is that I've had over 20 cars and
> whether I have a Cavalier, a Cadillac limo or a Delorean, the basic
> liability is the same price. If they tell you otherwise, go to a local
> insurance and shop around. What will kill you in price is any kind of comp
> or collision coverage, which most companies will not offer for the car
> anyway.
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 10:58:30 -0700
From: "Steven G. Rogers" <steven.rogers@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PARTS AND REPAIRS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Delorean Motor Center at 13881 West St. in Garden Grove (714) 554-6794 w/Don Steger owner
has been around nearly 20 years. I've been taking my car to him for 12. He is quite famous in the
DMC repair world. In fact, it was his wedding 12 years ago that prompted me to buy a D - he had
35 DMCs lined up in Long Beach, and I drove past them and thought - that should be my next car!
You can also try Bob at South Bay Imports in Redondo Beach on Torrance blvd - near PCH
(don't have number.) They've done some work on my car when I used to drive to Redondo a lot.
*******************************************************************************
Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. Ernst & Young LLP
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 14:06:48 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PARTS AND REPAIRS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Delorean motor center is in Garden Grove CA, see:
www.deloreanmotorcenter.com
For parts you can also contact PJGrady, DMC Houston, DeLorean Services,
and so on... (See http://www.dmcnews.com/links.html)
ronpti@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> Aside from Delorean One, are there any parts outlets and repair shops that
> any of you can recommend in the Los Angeles area -- especially West Los
> Angeles/Santa Monica. As to parts suppliers, as long as they can ship
> overnight I guess a source anywhere would work. Any help will be appreciated.
> Ron
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 14:43:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rust
On Wed, 5 Apr 2000, JDL wrote:
> Wouldn't something like that end up having the same problem as epoxy,
> in the long run?
Probably not. The epoxy is a fairly rigid, brittle material which breaks
when the frame flexes. Either the engineers thought it wasn't as rigid as
it was or they thought the frame wouldn't flex as much as it does. In
contrast, most undercoating style materials are quite soft and really
won't break. (I don't know why they didn't use a standard rustproofing
material in the first place).
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 15:05:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Get performance!!!
On Wed, 5 Apr 2000, Lee wrote:
> rotors are a direct result of the video industry's need to see some
> kind of rotational movement when doing close up's of tire changes in
I guess it's time to clarify my opposition to drilled rotors. :}
Drilled rotors are quite common on race cars, but of course, race cars are
not street cars and the requirements are different. They do have a few
legitimate advantages which, in my opinion, do not justify their drawbacks
for a street car.
The first advantage is their weight. This little bit of weight
(especially since it is rotating mass on the wheels) can make a noticeable
difference in suspension performance. But it doesn't matter on a street
car, because the weight saved would be a very small proportion of total
wheel mass (but it does make a difference on motorcycles, which is why so
many sport bikes have drilled rotors even from the factory).
The second advantage is cooling. The little holes give the rotor more
surface area to shed heat with. This doesn't matter very much on a street
car either, because the rotors just don't get hot enough to cause
problems.
The third advantage has to do with 'outgassing'. Hot brake pads emit gas,
and the gas can act as a lubricant, reducing the effectiveness of the
brakes. It's much less of a problem with modern brake pads and isn't a
problem at all at the low temperatures encountered on the street. The
holes provide a place for the gases to escape to.
On the other hand, there are two big problems with drilled rotors - they
are not very sturdy and they crack. It's not a matter of if they crack,
but a matter of when. The jostling that street cars issue to their
suspension is very severe compared to what most (paved surface) race cars
encounter. This can stress the rotors and break them. Solid rotors
rarely crack because of stress, but drilled ones crack frequently.
Sometimes, street rotors get heated unevenly - suppose you are
driving along the highway at 70 mph and suddenly have to make a panic stop
- say because of an accident or other traffic congestion ahead. This can
put quite a bit of heat into your brake pads, and then you sit in traffic
with your foot on the brake - wheels not turning. All the heat gets put
into just one area of the rotor, and the uneven expansion stresses it in a
way that a race car would never have. Even the regular heating-cooling
cycles that all street car components get are hard on these rotors. Race
cars usually wear their rotors out before they have a chance to fail due
to heat stress.
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 23:22:07 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: no door locks
The clicking you hear is the door lock circuit breaker. The factory
installed door lock module is sending continuous voltage to the door
solenoids. When the solenoid over heats it causes the circuit breaker to
open and close (clicking). If the module is not disconnected it will destroy
the solenoids, which from your description, may have already happened.
The only reliable solution is to install the Lockzilla, you will probably
have to install new solenoids as well.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 12:38 PM
Subject: [DML] no door locks
> Hello,
> when I bought my car nothing in the doors worked except the 3 lights
on
> the outside of each door. The passenger side door was disconected because
it
> was smashed and wouldnt shut so the lights stayed on. I now have a nice
new
> stainless steel door on it w/everything in it. I hooked it up and nothing
in
> it will work. The door locks started to work in the drivers side door but
> then stopped again. I used to hear a clicking coming from the electrical
> area but now nothing. what could this be? I really want to get my locks
> working so I can put the interior door panels back on. please let me know
> what to look for. could this be a relay? there isnt a fuse for the
locks,
> right? my inertia switch is also disconnected, could that be it?
>
> Thanks in advance
> David
> #2496
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 13:16:30 -0700
From: Mike Hirko <mikehirko@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PARTS AND REPAIRS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
ronpti@xxxxxxx wrote:
>
> Aside from Delorean One, are there any parts outlets and repair shops that
> any of you can recommend in the Los Angeles area (snip)
Don Steger: DeLorean Motor Center at 13881 West Street, Garden Grove
CA 92643
(714) 554-6794
He's done excellent work for me.
Mike Hirko
Kelso WA
VIN 1387
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 17:26:09 EDT
From: ledgend2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Hard Starting.
My car recently has been hard to start. It is a bit complicated to
explain. My mechanic told me my "Idle Thermistor" is bad and that is what
fried my idle computer. Since I didn't have the money to have him take the
whole intake off, he put a new idle computer in the car and rigged a loose
toggle switch that hangs off the front of the rear shelf. He told me to flip
it on when i start the car until it warms up. It raises the RPMs to about
2100. He also installed a new cold start valve and thermotine switch.
When my car sits for about 3-5 hours it is hard to impossible to start
the car. I thought it was the Gas, for awhile I was using 94 octane. I
switched back to 87 and the car started fine for a week and now its back to
the same hard starting. The car starts right back up when warm. Last night
my car sat in my garage for about 3 hours. I got in it to start it and it
wouldn't start at all. (not even any choking) after turning the engine over
for about 2 minutes, I took my truck. I noticed a strange smell from the
engine compartment. It wasnt gasoline.. A half hour later a tried to start
the car and it started with little hesitation. If the car sits for 6 or more
hours it almost never has trouble starting. THanks in advance... -Dave
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 22:38:09 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Insurance Cost
No matter what type of vehicle you try to insure, you can always have
problems. Recently there have been postings by both Steve Bunnell in
Colorado who is attempting to insure the car he already owns, and by
John S. who is looking to insure a car, but doesn't own one yet. I
understand to a degree where John is at because I'm the same age. But
remember, your rates & results may vary depending upon both your
insurance agent, city, and mostly your driving record. For John
specificly, look for a D that is for sale, and use it's VIN to get
your quote. Below is the response that I sent to Steve, but I'll also
add the following revisions; 1. Never, EVER plead guilty to ANY
trafic voilation! If you get a speeding ticket, or even if you're
involved in a traffic accident which is clearly your fault, and you
know it! ALWAYS pleade "Nolo Contendre." 2. I realized that there is
a small snag when using the technique to avoid the "Sports Car
labeling." The insurance letter from DMC Houston states "DeLorean
Sports Car." If your agent catches this, the strategy may be defeated
(unless of course a new letter could be provided with new wording).
If you have any questions about anything here, just email me, & I'll
see what I can do to help out!
-Robert
vin 6585
__________________________________
I don't know if Progressive insurance company is availible in your
area or not, but I have been told that they are able to provide
insurace for the DeLorean. Although, we did have some difficulty with
them insuring vehicles in the past. Nothing classic or exotic, just
average cars that they gave us trouble with. And we have never filed
any type of claim. Currently our DeLorean is insured by Farmers
Insurance (not to be confused w/State Farm). Rates for our car are
$1,500 every six months w/a $500 deducable. This also includes
$100/300K coverage, and the vehicle is valued @ $28,000 replacement
value. Little things that you might ask about are windshield buy-back
option. If the windshield on our D needs replacement because it's
cracked, broken, or anything like that. It'll only cost us $150 out
of pocket to get it replaced, because the insurance co. buys the
glass back. And of course ask about anti-theft devices, good driver,
and/or defensive driver discounts. Getting your vehicle insured will
also depend alot on your insurance agent. A good agent should go out
of their way to help you. We had a somewhat simular issue w/Farmers.
When the VIN was entered into the system to add the DeLorean onto our
policy, the computer rejected it. The make of the car (not the
individual car itself) shows that it was 1. A "gray market" vehicle;
2. A high performace car not elegeble for daily driving, or my age
(under 25); 3. Parts availability. From previous talks, my insurance
agent already knew the basic points of my car, and why it didn't fall
into any of these categories. She contacted Farmers via email & phone
calls, and got them to insure the car as a regular 1981 vehicle. Not
insuring the car just because of the stainless panels doesn't make
too much sense. It sounds more like the company just wants out of the
deal. Remember, State Farm can still insure your car, it's just that
they've chosen not to. Go to DMC Houston's website, and download the
insurance letter there. This will help you greatly if an agent
attempts to cower out of a deal by making a "parts & reapair
availability" excuse. With the letter, you can call their bluff 2
ways: 1. you have the letter; 2. the letter has a contact phone # so
that the agent can talk w/DMC directly! Like I said before, a great
deal will depend upon the agent themselves. Before you walk into the
insurance office, bring with you the proper documents, and be
prepared to to give a "crash-course" education to the person behind
the desk! To also help you out, do this: When registering the car @
the DMV, alot of people have no clue about the car, use this to your
advantage! If they ask you about what type of car it is, say "2-door
coupe", rather than anything that might point to "sports car". While
this may not live up to the image of the car, it can lower your
insurance rates! When in insuring the car, the agent may wish to get
a higher rate from you by lableing the car as either "GT", "High
Performace", or "Sports Car." Cure all of this by doing the
following: The model of the car is "DMC-12." Nowhere in this title
does it say "GT." Bring documents with you such as articles, or even
the owners manual. With these you can prove that your car is not
a "High Performance" machine by showing that you only have a 130
horsepower engine! "Sports Car" is always the hardest to get by. But,
if when you registered the car you had it registered as a "2-door
coupe", you now have official documentation proving that the car is
in fact NOT a sports car, it's a coupe! Although somethings may
differ for you, none the less, give them all a shot. My insurance
rates are VERY high because of the area I live in: 21 y/o male, no
accidents or traffic violations, non-smoker, non drinker, but: Las
Vegas, NV. 24/7 avalibilty of free alcohol, high tourist flow (40
million + a year people drive though here a year, or jay-walk across
the street. And NONE of them are familiar w/the roads here), 5th
highest city in the US plagued w/road rage, 3rd worst roads in the
nation, and 5,000+ people moving here a MONTH congesting roads worse
every day. On my 22nd birth day, my rates should go down considerably
(high rate of DUI convictions here, especialy @ the leagal drinking
age). My insurance company's attitude is it's not me, it's everyone
else out on the road. But remember, if you do get a speeding ticket,
ALWAYS opt for traffic school, and plead "Nolo Contendre." When
seeking insurance, start the conversation out like, "I'm looking for
insurance, I've got a clean record, any discounts you can offer me,
and what can YOU do for me, etc..." If unsure about the agent, trying
keeping the DeLorean hidden untill last. If you have another car or
motorcycle to insure, ask about taking out a policy in it first.
After this has been done, then move onto the DeLorean, hit them with
it so they don't see it coming. By this point, they can tell that you
are a serious customer, and you've already got them baited w/a
policy, but you can still walk out. Remember, this person is there to
work for you, NOT the other way around! Still no luck, bypass the
agent and contact the Insurance Company directly. If you have any
questions, feel free to let me know, and good luck!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 20:16:46 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: rear shock replacement
Hello,
One of my rear Girling shocks is broken in half. My cross-reference
sheet shows that Monroe matic-plus #33049 but says "requires space washers to
fit" is this much of a problem? I would go and buy those shocks that one of
the clubs has for sale on their site but I would rather save a few extra
bucks and by something else I need more.(those do look nice though, I forget
the site address) has anyone ever tried these Monroes? how do they work? I
would like to buy from NAPA if possible because I get 30% off there:)
Thanks
#2496
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 20:22:15 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rust
Hey List,
WIth all this talk about rust on the frame and everything, I just wanted to
add my 2 cents in on what I plan to do with my frame when I get to that part
of my restoration. A friend of mine told me about this stuff called POR-15.
With POR-15 you don't even have to remove the rust, just use a wire brush to
remove the loose rust and use POR-15 to paint right over it. This stuff
chemically bonds to the rust and actually gets stronger with the moisture in
the air. I plan to use a coat of black and then a second coat of Grey, I
hear that the grey POR-15 is a really good match to the original epoxy color.
If you want to learn more about POR-15 check out their web page.....
www.por15.com Hope that helps some.
Later,
Nick
VIN#1852
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 21:34:52 EDT
From: nellymac1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tires
Thats just what I bought less than a month ago .
The Yoko's have made a fantastic change to the way the car corners. I could not believe the difference even though my tyres still had loads of tread.
By the way I need a new air con drive belt but am having a huge problem getting one as none of the auto shops have a listing ( even Peugot Volvo Renault)
Does anyone have the size for me so I can get a match?
Many thanks
Neil
In Scotland
2119
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 22:10:52 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Electrical connections on Water Pump job
I am at the half way point on replacing my water pump. I have everything removed, cleaned up (it took about 3 hours cleaning all of the yuk out of the little pockets), organized, and hoses inspected. In addition to replacing the water pump, I am also replacing all of the hoses involved (obviously) as well as the vacuum lines and hose clamps. In my inspection of everything, I noticed a couple of things that are bothering me a bit. Attached to the Water Distribution Pipe (Item #20 in section 1, subsection 3, group 0 in the parts manual) which is the Y shaped pipe coming from the water pump to the block on the opposite side. On the drivers side of the pipe, there is a valve (?) with three vacuum lines attached. On the passenger side, there are two electrical sensors (?) - one just above the point where the pipe attaches to the block (shown in the parts manual at the above listed location, but not identified) and another just a little toward the water pump (not shown in the parts manual). Once this area was exposed, I noticed that the sensor on the passenger side just above the block inlet did not have anything attached to it. Although, I did find two connectors pulled out of the way and either one could be what should be connected. On the DMC News site in the water pump replacement section, there is a picture that shows a connector with two green wires exiting it connected to this sensor (?). One of the connectors that I found fit that description, so I connected it. However, there is another connector (black with one black wire) still without a home - this black wire exits the same harness that the two green wires exit and is attached to the harness at just about the same location as the greens. Does anyone know where this wire should be connected? Also, does anyone know why the green wire connector would not have been connected? What is the purpose of the three items connected to the Water Distribution Pipe?
Thank you Dave Swingle for your help in the description (and especially the pictures) of the water pump job. Very, very helpful. This is a perfect example of how we come together to help each other as owners. I love this group!
Thank you for your help,
Sean Howley
VIN#2345
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 21:32:51 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Repair shops\ battery cut off switch\ cooling fan question
Your cooling fan problem is probably being caused by a defective cooling fan
circuit breaker or a bad connection at the circuit breaker.
Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: <abatt10347@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 6:32 PM
Subject: [DML] Repair shops\ battery cut off switch\ cooling fan question
> Last a question, my cooling fans as of late only come on for about 5 sec.
and
> then cut off. The cycle repeats about every min. This is with the ac off.
In
> the past the cooling fans seemed to kick on for a few min and then kick
off.
> Any help?
> Bruce Battles
> Vin #06569
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 20:24:57 -0700
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: magazine featuring DeLorean
(Note to self: Don't post to the list when you are tired. It comes out as
gibberish.)
Message should have said:
There is only one book, but it has (at least) two different titles.
(1.) "DeLorean, The Rise and Fall of a Dream Maker" ISBN 0-241-11087-4 Published
by Hamish Hamilton, Ltd. in the UK
(2.) "Dream Maker, The Rise and Fall of John Z. DeLorean" ISBN 0-399-12821-2
Published by G.P. Putnam Sons in the USA.
The books appear to be word-for-word the same - except for spelling.
There is also a version published in Canada by General Publishing Co, Ltd. I
wonder what its title is. Maybe "Make it Rise and Fall, the Dream of John
DeLorean"?
Hank
Hank Breer wrote:
>
> Haven't gotten the magazine yet, but if the title was given as "Dream Maker. The
> Rise and Fall of John Z. DeLorean", it is the British version of the same book.
> The two are the same except for words like earth vs. ground, tyre vs. tire,
> etc. I have both books.
>
> Hank
>
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 18:39:04 -0500
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rust
Actually, the frame did perform as designed. I recall from some of the books
that the design life of the car was supposed to be 10 years (a long time in
1978). Daily driven cars probably had frames rust thru in about that time.
you are now dealing with a 20-year old car. ANY 20 year old car that has
been exposed to the elements has frame rust problems. I recall fixing damage
like this on a 1963 Corvette, in about 1974 (driven in Illinois)
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Rust
On Wed, 5 Apr 2000, JDL wrote:
> Wouldn't something like that end up having the same problem as epoxy,
> in the long run?
Probably not. The epoxy is a fairly rigid, brittle material which breaks
when the frame flexes. Either the engineers thought it wasn't as rigid as
it was or they thought the frame wouldn't flex as much as it does. In
contrast, most undercoating style materials are quite soft and really
won't break. (I don't know why they didn't use a standard rustproofing
material in the first place).
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 07:16:11 +0200
From: cwirz@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: John DeLorean
Books from
Dherv10@xxxxxxx
I would advise you to Order things from him only by COD
otherwise you might will have trouble
Christoph
dherv10@xxxxxxx on 06.04.2000 06:29:42
Please respond to dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
cc: (bcc: Christoph Wirz/atraxis/APD)
Subject: Re: [DML] John DeLorean
I have the John Delorean book"s for sale 20.00 ea. John Hervey.
Dherv10@xxxxxxx + postage $3.00.
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 10:17:42 EDT
From: sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx
Subject: More fuel system problems
Ok, another update on the fuel system problems. I was having the wonderful
sound of a fuel startved fuel pump, and driving it last night, it almost
didn't make it home. You have to drive it for about 30 minutes for it to
really start, and although the echos make it hard to pinpoint, I think the
sound is coming from the accumulator. It acted as if it was sucking air last
night, which all leads me to believe that the pickup hose running into the
fuel pump is collapsing because of the suction of the pump. For it to do
this there must be a clog down at the screen, right? I just wanted a few
more opinions before I tear into the whole baffle system (I've dealt with
this fuel pump enough already) Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Scott
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Message: 19
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 14:22:32 -0000
From: "Raymond McKay" <raynet@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Boston Area (and CT ) repair shops?
When I had my D, I had a very good local garage do work on my Car.
The guys there did a lot of good work for a very reasonable price.
The shop is located in Canton, CT and is called Canton Village
Exxon. Their # is 693-4365 Talk to Kevin or Danny and tell em Ray
sent you
Hope this helps
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, heskin@xxxx wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I'm thinking of acquiring a D (Hi Don!), and was wondering if
> anyone
> knows where I can get reliable and resonable D repairs done in the
> greater Boston area. (Searching the mail-list archive turned up
> nothing.)
>
> Thanks,
> -Hank
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 10:32:52 EDT
From: burkephoto@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Door Lock solenoids
In a message dated 4/7/00 10:02:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< you will probably
have to install new solenoids as well. >>
I just wanted to mention that burned out solenoids can be very easily
rewound. I've done it by unwinding the old wire (measure and record the
length) and getting the same gauge and length and carfully rewinding the
solenoid. The wire can be obtained from shops that repair power tools,
alternators, electric motors etc. The cost for the wire was just a few
dollars. Just be sure to use the same gauge and length as the original.
Burke
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 15:46:50 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: custom front grille
Hi everybody,
I found an interesting picture of a D with a custom made front grille
on DeLorean Site Deutschland "http://www.delorean.de"
The pics are very small, but I put 2 in a folder called "custom front
grille" in the vault. Anyone know who did this, or anyone speak
german?!
Thanks,
John Dore, Ireland.
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Message: 22
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 09:14:04 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hard Starting.
Sounds like it could be a bad coil or control module. Frequently these act
up when they get hot. Your engine does not get hot enough while running to
cause the problem (coolant is circulating). However, as soon as you shut
the engine off, coolant stops circulating. This period of time is when the
engine gets the hottest (even though it is not running). After several
hours, it cools down to acceptable levels and will allow the car to
re-start. I know this sounds kinda odd, but I have seen this more than
once.(not on DeLoreans though)
Hope this helps.
Brian
16584
> My car recently has been hard to start.
>When my car sits for about 3-5 hours it is hard to impossible to start
>the car
The car starts right back up when warm. Last night
>my car sat in my garage for about 3 hours. I got in it to start it and it
>wouldn't start at all. (not even any choking) after turning the engine
>over
>for about 2 minutes,
A half hour later a tried to start
>the car and it started with little hesitation. If the car sits for 6 or
>more
>hours it almost never has trouble starting. THanks in advance... -Dave
>
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 10:35:56 PDT
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: \ battery cut off switch\
There are two types of battery cutoff switches. One is open/closed curcuit
switch and the other is open w/15amp bypass. The difference is one completly
shuts off the power to your vehicle and the other allows you to keep you
computer memories powered (ie clocks, radio presets, and engine computers so
they wont have to relearn).
The complete disconnect is designed for rv's w/deep cycle batteries so that
an rv can sit in storage and not drain it's batts. The other battery cut off
switch is designed for ppl w/classic cars. It has a nob and you do a quarter
turn on the nob and the main voltage is shut off and you are left w/a 15amp
bypass that powers your system, but will not provide enuf juice to even spin
the starter let alone engage the selenoid.
If you are interested I can give you the catalog name and part number.
hope that helps,
dr c.
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Repair shops\ battery cut off switch\ cooling fan question
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 18:32:19 EDT
Fellow DMCer's,
I am compiling the repair shop list, so this is last call, please send in
any
shops you want listed.( to ABatt10347@xxxxxxx) The number of shops has
fallen
off the last few weeks. I still have many states not listed, so if you
haven't sent one in please do so in the next few days.
As a reminder this is a list of shops that we as owners have used and are
happy with. They will be listed by state. Please include name of shop,phone
numbers, address, and a contact person. The final list will be linked at the
DML main page.
I missed out on the battery cutoff switch, so after calling almost every
auto
parts store, I found one at of all places an RV supply store. They have them
for the side post terminals.
Last a question, my cooling fans as of late only come on for about 5 sec.
and
then cut off. The cycle repeats about every min. This is with the ac off. In
the past the cooling fans seemed to kick on for a few min and then kick off.
Any help?
Bruce Battles
Vin #06569
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 14:51:45 -0700
From: Tamir Ardon <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Repair shops\ battery cut off switch\ cooling fan question
Bruce,
This repair shop is top notch. He has been working on Deloreans for a long time.
Paradise MotorSport Services, Inc.
American and European Automobile Restoration Services
63 South Eisenhower Lane
Lombard, IL 60148
Phone: 630-495-3774
Fax: 630-495-3785
www.paradisemotorsport.com
Ask for Lance.
Good luck finishing up the list,
Tamir
http://www.entermyworld.com
abatt10347@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Fellow DMCer's,
> I am compiling the repair shop list, so this is last call, please send in any
> shops you want listed.( to ABatt10347@xxxxxxx) The number of shops has fallen
> off the last few weeks. I still have many states not listed, so if you
> haven't sent one in please do so in the next few days.
> As a reminder this is a list of shops that we as owners have used and are
> happy with. They will be listed by state. Please include name of shop,phone
> numbers, address, and a contact person. The final list will be linked at the
> DML main page.
> I missed out on the battery cutoff switch, so after calling almost every auto
> parts store, I found one at of all places an RV supply store. They have them
> for the side post terminals.
> Last a question, my cooling fans as of late only come on for about 5 sec. and
> then cut off. The cycle repeats about every min. This is with the ac off. In
> the past the cooling fans seemed to kick on for a few min and then kick off.
> Any help?
> Bruce Battles
> Vin #06569
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 21:20:30 -0000
From: "Joshua " <fehl1@xxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Speech success
Id like to thank everyone one more time for all the help I got when I
was putting my speech together. It earned me an A and the teacher
wants a copy of it for later classes. I couldnt have done it without
you. So thanks again.
Josh
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