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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Women of Hooters
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
2. those &^%$# door lights are great
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
3. 17000 series
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: coolant leak, pitted pipe?
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Update E-Mailing List for my site
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Help! Trunk stuck closed
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
7. Manifold heat stove...
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Fabricating Anything?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
9. Only running on five cylinders
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: The D gets cheaper every day.
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: freak oil leak
From: NJPIII@xxxxxxx
12. RE: Fabricating Anything?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Only running on five cylinders
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: minor wiring harness question
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: coolant leak, pitted pipe?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Delorean Chan
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Help! Trunk stuck closed
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: The D gets cheaper every day.
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: freak oil leak
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. all stainless performace muffler for sale!
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: 17000 series
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: 17000 series
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Only running on five cylinders
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Doc Brown Costume
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 13:57:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Women of Hooters
Damn, Michael, the picture is fuzzy. However, I guess
If I had the opportunity to take a picture like that,
my hands would be shaking also.
Dick Ryan
--- Senatorpack@xxxxxx wrote:
>
>
> Great Picture in the Vault.
>
> They all loved the DeLorean.
>
> Sincerely,
> Michael Pack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 22:54:23 +0200
From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>
Subject: those &^%$# door lights are great
Maybe the plastik part of the door is too far away from the switch so it
won't be
pushed in far enough ?
Test it by sticking something on the plastik part with tape (is it still
there ?) with one,
two ore some more millimeters (40,80...mills).
But the question is - why doesn't the door push the switch correctly ? Is it
installed correctly ?
is it the correct switch ?
Can you take a picture ?
I always have the inverse problem with my other car, where the contacts are
corroded....
Elvis...with great door lights in his 6548
I have the most frustrating door lights of all time.....I can sit there a
million times and push the little door light/door ajar button and the lights
go out instantly. As soon as I close the door, the lights stay on!!!!!....Is
this magic? Obviously the door closing shut is not pushing that little knob
at all or maybe somehting is shorting somewhere...
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:42:01 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 17000 series
Apparently this vin number series, "17000", was built for the Canadian
market. How many were built?
Other than the throttle spool cover and 240 kilometer per hour speedometer,
were there any other modifications?
Marv
# 17707
marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 18:43:02 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: coolant leak, pitted pipe?
The pitted pipes are a result of acid buildup in your coolant system. When
was the last time you flushed out the coolant system? It should be done
every couple of years. Call a DeLorean vendor and order a new pipe. Also,
have you replaced the coolant system rubber hoses, ALL of them. Including
the ones under the intake manifold. This is where most coolant losses occur.
Poke a long screwdriver or stick under the intake manifold and see if it
comes up wet. If it is, then the next step is to call PJ Grady and get his
coolant system hose kit.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Dmc /dml" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 06, 2002 8:17 PM
Subject: [DML] coolant leak, pitted pipe?
> Hey all-
> I've been experiencing some coolant loss and it's got me rattled.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 16:13:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Update E-Mailing List for my site
Hey Everyone!
Mark (ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx) just suggested a really
great idea for my site. If anyone would like to be put
onto an e-mailing list for updates pertaining to my
site please write me privately at
delorean_stainless(AT)yahoo.com It's a great idea for
anyone really interested in my project. I will also
post messages about updates on the DML but they might
be delayed a few days. I have not done any updates in
a month or so but I have a ton of new pics and a lot
of exciting progress. I have collected massive amounts
of data pertaining to mods and upgrades. The big
picture is beginning to come into focus more. I'm
gonna put a parts section up too of stuff I'm selling
so people looking will want to check there every so
offten. I dont wanna spoil the surprise of whats gonna
happen but its very exciting! It's gonna be a long
restoration, refurbish and reenginering project, but I
hope everyone will check in every so often. It's Very
very Exciting!!!!!!!
Thank you again Mark for your interest in my project
and the great ideas!!! Keep 'em coming!
Todd
Vin 5386
=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 23:25:10 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Help! Trunk stuck closed
> I know this isn't something discussed on the open list,
> so I didn't check the archives,
[snip]
> I went to open the trunck, and nothing!
[snip]
> Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can
You should have checked out the archives anyway;
In message # 14564, posted in februari of 2001
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/14564>
I pointed out
<http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/trunkcable.html>
Which has been up for allmost 4 (!) years now...
Other messages that came up with a search for " trunk cable":
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/22421>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/22500>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/14564>
Good luck, don't forget to immediately install a backup
when you get it open! AND remember to tell your service
station it is there; I forgot so when they had the cable snap
on them they charged me for installing a new cable after
wrestling it open...
But they did a great job on my car, so I didn't mind
and NOW they DO know...
Cheers,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 23:37:55 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Manifold heat stove...
Well I tore off my manifold heat stove today. I was getting an
annoying vibration sound during acceleration around 2500 rpms from
the passenger side engine bay. When i checked the stove today it was
extremely loose and rusty. The little bolts holding it on broke off
when i tried to remove them. Anyway, the buzz noise seems to be gone.
Also while I was down there I noticed that the exhaust manifold is
missing a nut.. dammit.
Adam
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 20:01:57 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fabricating Anything?
Hey,
you should make some of those air vents that i've seen on the sides of the
rear quarter glass for the air intake on the pass side and a dummy one on the
driver's side. make sure you make them TASTEFUL (i.e. not gigantic or too
wide or out of proportion) and also painted so they match the car's exterior
in some way (perhaps the same color as the vent fins?). also remember to
leave a hole for the power antenna!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 17:39:42 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Only running on five cylinders
After the cold weather started, for some reason my baby will only run on
five cylinders. Everything was perfect up until then, aside from some minor
hesitation in the morning. After checking the injectors (the ones I can get
to) and finding them clean, I've just decided to do a tune up and replace
the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and coil.
Now comes the hard part. I can't even see the distributor. I've only
caught a brief glimpse in all my crawling around in then engine bay and it's
very disheartening. I can't even tell what I have to remove. I tried a
couple of things, but someone had the cruel joke of filling a few bolt heads
with glue. Do I have to take off the fuel distributor and the entire
intake? I've searched around and found nothing documented on distributor
removal. Unfortunately there are no shops in my small town that will even
work on it, let alone that can be trusted. I've had to give up my futile
attempts to preserve my dwindling sanity.
Would there happen to be any kind souls out there who have done this at home
and could send me a few tips? I miss my DeLorean! Every day I'm not
driving her is torture. If you could, please contact me at
bpayne(at)macnet.com
Thank you for all your time!
Brandon Payne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 00:40:45 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The D gets cheaper every day.
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
-
>
> Is what D-1 charges for a DeLorean in line with what the sticker
price of a new
> one today might cost if the company was still in business? Who
knows. You've
> got prices all over the place for sports, and super cars. Esprits &
Jaguars are
> up in the $90K+ range, and Corvettes are down in the $40-$50K's.
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
Basically DMC was "trying" to sell the Deloreans for twice the price
tag of a Corvette of the same year.Corvettes in 1981 were selling for
appox $16,000 so DMC was sticker pricing at $32,000(at least that was
what was on the window sticker of the very first delorean I looked at
in a Dealer show room in 1981)so at todays rate, if there was a 2003
Delorean,that would mean that a New Delorean would sell for $80,000-
$100,K's.
So D-1's Remanufactured Deloreans would be a bit steep even in todays
standard.Remanufactured items should NEVER exceed 50% of NEW.DMC of
Texas is MORE in line for what a Remanufactured Delorean should/would
sell for.Expecially since the Delorean has no important History
behind it(Street or track racing or Legendary figures/time eras ect.
behind it)Yes I know JZD,Lotus,and Ital-Design,BUT all the negative
things/problems knocked it out of wack,The gullwing doors is Not what
makes the car special,as the Bricklin has those,THE thing that makes
it special is THE STAINLESS STEEL SKIN,and the "cult" like following
that it has.And sites like this and OTHERS that are deciated to the
Delorean.If you take one of these items away,it would become just
another used old car.
Claude
00570
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 21:09:31 EDT
From: NJPIII@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: freak oil leak
<PRE>Unfortunatly could be a leak in the block there are six galleys that run down
into the block and stop just above the crank journals have had 2 engines in
the last year at my shop with this problem, teardown is the only way to be
sure.
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 20:33:45 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Fabricating Anything?
I would like to see both breathers feed the intake instead of just the right
side.
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 7:02 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Fabricating Anything?
Hey,
you should make some of those air vents that i've seen on the sides of the
rear quarter glass for the air intake on the pass side and a dummy one on
the
driver's side. make sure you make them TASTEFUL (i.e. not gigantic or too
wide or out of proportion) and also painted so they match the car's exterior
in some way (perhaps the same color as the vent fins?). also remember to
leave a hole for the power antenna!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 02:56:49 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Only running on five cylinders
Access to electrical distributor is quite easy if you move upper air
assembly (the "air/fuel assembly"?) up and forward a couple of inches.
Is only held on by two brackets near the fuel distributor and one bolt
between the throttle plates. Even with my PRV's formed steel fuel
lines, removal was 15 minute procedure. Watch the O rings where air
assembly joins U pipes. I recommend leaving connecting rod attached at
throtle plates and taking loose at the spool (much easier access to
retaining clip).
I'd be leery to disturb seal between fuel distributor and the air
assembly. Could create a MAJOR vacuum leak.
While everything was loose I further increased access by relocating
idle speed motor. Makes timing the thing a snap. Spark plug 4 is much
more accessible too.
Re: 5 cylinders -- I'd suspect spark more than fuel. Have you
identified the dead cylinder? Make sure wire is seated all the way.
Pull the plug to analyze what's going on inside (if plug itself isn't
damaged it could be fouled with soot, oil, or encrustation: 3
different problems elsewhere in engine). Swap plugs to see if misfire
moves to new cylinder. You can't really swap wires until you get
access to distributor, at which time you'll be replacing them all anyway!
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Now comes the hard part. I can't even see the distributor. I've only
> caught a brief glimpse in all my crawling around in then engine bay
and it's
> very disheartening.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 03:13:50 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: minor wiring harness question
Red/White: To instrument lamps
Red/Orange: From "RO junction" (lines tied together at rear of
console, also going to driver's side lights, cigar lamp, and A/C panel
lamp relay), ultimately from fuse 8
Red/Orange: To clock
Red/Orange: To headlight switch
Red/Orange: To hazard switch
Mine has been totally rewired, so you'll have to trace yourself which
RO are paired.
Get a wiring diagram AND legend (John Hervey should be able to set you
up). Has a few discrepancies, but is invaluable. Remember to document
any changes you make.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <henry@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> I've been working in my center console area making some minor
> modifications. In the process, I've returned my dimmer rheostat to John
> Harvey to be repaired... and I have a question about the five leads
that run
> to it.
>
> There are four Red/Orange leads in two pairs, and one Red/White
lead. There
> is +12V power on one pair of the Red/Orange leads, which when
connected to
> the single Red/White lead powers the dashboard lights (very brightly, I
> might add).
>
> What I'd like to know is where do the other pair of Red/Orange leads
lead
> to, and should they be powered with the dashboard lights? I looked
at the
> Zilla schematic, and I can't trace where they go, or exactly what their
> function is. With the switch removed, is there something important
> somewhere that is going unpowered? As far as I can tell, all other
lights
> in the car are working, so there is nothing obviously not working.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Hank
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2002 20:36:07 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: coolant leak, pitted pipe?
Thanks for the info, Dave and Jim.
According to my records all rubber was changed in 12/97.
I changed coolant last fall; more was probably changed in Feb. when the
water pump was replaced.
The damage was probably done before that.
I would think the rubber is still good... you?
I'll try the stick test.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sontos [mailto:dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 5:43 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] coolant leak, pitted pipe?
The pitted pipes are a result of acid buildup in your coolant system. When
was the last time you flushed out the coolant system? It should be done
every couple of years. Call a DeLorean vendor and order a new pipe. Also,
have you replaced the coolant system rubber hoses, ALL of them. Including
the ones under the intake manifold. This is where most coolant losses occur.
Poke a long screwdriver or stick under the intake manifold and see if it
comes up wet. If it is, then the next step is to call PJ Grady and get his
coolant system hose kit.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 2002 23:24:21 -0400
From: Samuel <samuel_yahoo@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Chan
Well, the channel is slowly growing. Have 6 or so people that are
usually around at different times. I've seen 4 or 5 others come in and
out and I usually end up missing them (DMCVIN961 popped in and he left
just as I said hi as I was catching up on the emails from the mailing list).
Just hoping some others will show up.
#delorean on EFNet. If ya need help joining it, email me or check
http://www.dmcnews.com/chat.html.
I'm usually around from 1pm (or earilier if on a weekend or
tuesday/thursday) to 10pm EST (5pm to 2am UTC). The others are on and
off. Gumby is usually around during the day. Drop on by and say hi if ya
want.
Anyone that has come by seems to like the channel quite a bit when
people are around due to not having to wait for the mailing list to
cycle. If the channel does become an active Q&A, i'll start logging it
to a website but so far it is chit-chat and an occasional question.
Samuel
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 03:23:16 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Help! Trunk stuck closed
Dave, you might find this archive search engine more helpful than Yahoo's:
http://www.dmcnews.com/search.html
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jan van de Wouw" <jvdwouw@xxxx> wrote:
> > I know this isn't something discussed on the open list,
> > so I didn't check the archives,
> [snip]
> > I went to open the trunck, and nothing!
> [snip]
> > Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 04:09:27 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The D gets cheaper every day.
oh you're gonna get hell from that...
The gull wings do help to make the car.
But at the time the price of car was out of whack due to higher
production costs than were expected. If DMC *HAD* survived, it would
have improved the DMC-12's manufacturing process, and would have had
other ventures to bring in money (like cocaine... bad joke sorry).
The price of the 12 would have dropped to less than the vette or
porsche OR the performance and quality of the car would have improved
to be more worth the near 30k price tag.
IF DMC had lived, the 81-83 DMC-12 would not be going for as much as
they are are because there would more of them (or 84s, 85s, and on
that were similar) and there would be less demand for restoration.
More than likely if JZD had lived up to his dream the car would have
lessened in price, improved in performamce and quality, but
unfortunatly become more common.
The cars entire history and style are what make it special, not just
the stainless. Gulls Wings, stainless, JetSetter JZD leaving GM and
MAKING HISTORY IN THE PROCESS, and fun and exotic (and compared to a
ferrari or lamborghini.. cheap) car, AND a scandal surrounding it
all. The car was a classic in 1979, before it came out!!! And by 82
it was a legend.
The DMC-12 has it's bad points. But destined to be what it is now.
COOL AS HELL!!
I agree that DeLoreaOne is absurd, and I personally would never buy
anything from a place that would dare charge the prices they do (not
just for cars but for parts too). Lords knows PJ Grady not only cares
more about the customer, and the cars, but does a better job and for
less money that DeLoreanOne would even think about without snubbing
thier nose at me (for looking for a project-car when they only wanna
sell me a 30k car for 62k).[not to start a vendor war.. i like DMC
Houston too BTW, J Hervey is great as well]
Forgetting about them however, a good condition D has appreciated in
value since 81. Which is especially amazing considering they weren't
really worth 30k to begin with!
James LaLonde 001697
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 04:48:43 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: freak oil leak
Have you pulled the oil dipstick out and see if there is any Coolant
in the oil? Better yet drain it to see if there is any coolant in
the oil, if there is you may have a bad head gasket. Also are you
sure it's oil coming out from behind the pump? If the seal goes on
the pump...they are black and will blacken the coolant as it oozes
past the bad seal.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RFLRKV@xxxx wrote:
> I 'jumped' my D-12. It over heats. Now oil is running out behind
the waterpump pulley. No coolant; pure oil. Can't see it. W.P.
remove is a major disassemble job. Can anyone give me a hint??!!-
Richard
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 01:09:08 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: all stainless performace muffler for sale!
Hello everyone, Since I am building an engine for my car I no longer need the performance muffler I custom built for my car. It looks and fits just like a stock one, but uses high quality stainless throughout, all manderal bent tubes, and no baffling. It will improve performance with only a very slight increase in noise which is almost nonexistant. Go take a look at http://putschdesign.tripod.com/ I am asking $275 for it. That barley covers my cost in building it. Let alone time in design, construction, welding etc. By the way, it has those nice stainless borla tips on it, they look really good on the car.
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 09:59:08 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 17000 series
Front indicator/sidelight combination as in this picture
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/Dcp00624.jpg
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458 & #4426 (now at home)
Marvin wrote:
>Apparently this vin number series, "17000", was built for the Canadian
>market. How many were built?
>Other than the throttle spool cover and 240 kilometer per hour speedometer,
>were there any other modifications?
>
>Marv
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 10:10:36 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 17000 series
My Car is a Canadian spec, Not in the 17,000 vins
though. I do have the 240kph speedo and throttle spool
cover. Before I changed them It also had white/amber
split front indicators.
Cheers
Paul
#6463
--- Marvin <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: >
Apparently this vin number series, "17000", was
> built for the Canadian
> market. How many were built?
> Other than the throttle spool cover and 240
> kilometer per hour speedometer,
> were there any other modifications?
>
> Marv
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 2002 14:02:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Only running on five cylinders
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/message/26710
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458 & #4426
Payne wrote:
>Now comes the hard part. I can't even see the distributor. I've only
>caught a brief glimpse in all my crawling around in then engine bay and it's
>very disheartening. I can't even tell what I have to remove. I tried a
>couple of things, but someone had the cruel joke of filling a few bolt heads
>with glue. Do I have to take off the fuel distributor and the entire
>intake? I've searched around and found nothing documented on distributor
>removal.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2002 09:25:28 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Doc Brown Costume
It's time to start on our costumes. A lot of people are interested in this
project so we're going to get an early jump on it.
Here's a list of things you will need to begin:
1. Lab coat and pants. You want to get white pants and a white jacket. Check
the yellow pages to see if you have a uniform supply store in town. If there
isn't one, you can order them online at http://www.uniformstore.com or
http://www.uniformadvantage.com. Expect to spend between $30 - $50.
2. Doc's hair. It should look similar to this:
http://www.magicmakers.com/retail/wigs/baldoldmangrey.html. Check your local
costume shops and see what they have.
3. Inkjet t-shirt transfer paper (at least 4 sheets) and access to an inkjet
printer. I bought a pack at Best Buy, but any office supply or craft store
will have them. Here's what I bought:
http://www.burlingtonpaper.com/inkjetspecialty/item529.html. We will use
this paper to transfer the giant radioactive symbol (which I will provide)
on the back of the lab coat.
4. Hawaiian shirt (optional). Doc wore this under his lab coat. I happen to
wear them on a regular basis so I have them lying around. You can get them
in any clothing store fairly cheaply.
Tonite, I will begin making the lab coat and hopefully have photos of it for
tomorrow.
Good luck!
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