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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 21 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: applying decals and bumper letters
From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: radiator fan removal & replacement
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
4. Fan Blower Only #4 works
From: "jason3625" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. FUEL ACCUMULATOR INSTALLATION
From: "jason3625" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. you're the next contestant on "Name that Hose!!!"
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: Idle speed blues
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
10. Travelling to Memphis
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: FUEL ACCUMULATOR INSTALLATION
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Re: applying decals and bumper letters
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Fan Blower Only #4 works
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Fan Blower Only #4 works
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
15. Re: FUEL ACCUMULATOR INSTALLATION
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
16. Re: Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
17. Was Re: Idle speed blues Now Recalls
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Travelling to Memphis
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: you're the next contestant on "Name that Hose!!!"
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
20. Moby
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: you're the next contestant on "Name that Hose!!!"
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 10:37:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott Cagle <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: applying decals and bumper letters
The scotchbrite pad is to roughen up the surface of the bumper to give the adhesive a more raised surface to attach itself to.
Scott
_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
_____________________________________________________________
Run a small business? Then you need professional email like you@xxxxxxxxxxx from Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net?tag
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 13:59:49 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: radiator fan removal & replacement
Walt,
You asked?
" Is there anything more that I should know besides that the lower
radiator brackets have to come off?"
Removing the front mounts for the roll bar will allow the bar to drop away
from the bottom of the fan assembly allowing easy access and removal of the
fan and radiator assembly.
Regards,
DMC Joe/Help Club dmchelp@xxxxxxx
Information & Store http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2002 11:45 PM
Subject: [DML] radiator fan removal & replacement
> I think I have a squeaky radiator fan. My a/c blower was the culprit
> before, so I replaced it. Now I have a similar sound, and I'm sure it
isn't
> the a/c blower again. I was suspecting my fuel pump since it is now
making
> random grunts most of the time now, but when I spin the blades on my
> radiator fans by hand, the left one makes a chirping sound. So, I suspect
> this is the problem.
>
> I've searched the DML archives on removing the fans, but there isn't a lot
> said. It reminds me of that Chinese puzzle where you have to get the
spiky
> ball out of the cage. The only way I got the ball out was by breaking the
> cage (by accident, really!) Is there anything more that I should know
> besides that the lower radiator brackets have to come off? If anyone
feels
> like talking about their past experiences on the matter, let me know.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 22:03:34 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
On 03-04-2002 Shain wrote:
> I though the purpose of the fanzilla was to turn one fan on then
> have a delay on the second. The main function of this was to have
> one fan warm up before the other clicks on, creating a gradual instead
> of an imediate request of power for the car.
True, but you forgot that the A/C compressor kicking in ALSO asks for
A LOT of power from the engine. Originally the fans cycle in full sync
with the AC, so when the compressor kicks in you get an immediate demand
of power for both fans (fused at 20A each equals about 240Watts (about
0.32hp), startup current not taken into account) AND the compressor, which
can take its' fair amount of hp too.
What the FanZilla does is wait for the AC to come on, then one fan, and a
bit later the other. The off cycle is the same: first the AC, fan one,
fan two... AND it restores the FanFail to its' original function...
I'm curious of Martins' system too, I like the idea of making two separate
systems, especially if he decides to fuse them separately and gives them
power directly from the battery instead of over the CircuitBreaker.
Not that I would need one: I have a FanZilla on board, soon to be joined by
my "JanZilla: ;-) monitoring system...
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 20:15:25 -0000
From: "jason3625" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fan Blower Only #4 works
I have been reading some past posts about the internal heater/AC
blowers however I did not seem to find some solid answers. It seems
like my D's blower motor only works on the highest level 1, 2 and 3
do not seem to work and 4 is nothing to scream about. Has any one
had any similar problems with a fix? Or maybe where to suggest to
look 1st?
Thanks
Jason
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2002 20:18:09 -0000
From: "jason3625" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: FUEL ACCUMULATOR INSTALLATION
I am reposting this one becuse I did not receive any replys from
anyone... :( I figured becuse I did it over Easter many of you maybe
overlooked it.... so here it is again. Thanks!
Does any one have a step by step guide as to how to install the Fuel
Accumulator? any pictures? The reason is I will have to bring my D
into a repair shop locally who would be billing me per hour and if I
show them that this should not take longer than "1/2 hour" I have
some recourse if they claim that it took them more time than this to
do or screwed something up. Also I would like to advise them of all
they need to know about the car, dangers, warnings etc... before they
start work on it. Thanks everyone!
Jason
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 01:00:13 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
Hi Shain
The reason you need to delay both fans by DIFFERENT amounts is because the switching signal comes along at the precise instant the ac compressor engages. The compressor produces a considerable "kick" to the engine all on its own, so you let the engine recover from that, then switch the first fan on, then the second. You also have to examine how the fans behave as the signal is killed - do they cycle down in sequence as well or do they shut off immediately. Both ways have advantages and disadvantages which I've addressed based on personal preference - ie it's up to you how to build it.
I don't understand the function of your low side switch, and why therefore the load has to be at least 75 ohms total. All you're doing is creating a potential divider so that the relay switches at a lower voltage and the tranny controls a lower current. Just use a fatter tranny and let the relay have 12V - it's what it's meant to use after all...
My low side switch is one common emitter 2n2222 with the relay coil from supply to collector. My timing comparator switches the base through a resistor with an additional pull-down. (and of course a catch diode across the relay).
There is no UK equivalent of RS's website (rswww.com), and all the part numbers are common across the world (or so I thought....).
With the fan-fail light, I knew how to do it sometime ago, it was just a matter of finding the right part at the right price to allow it to be done simply. Suffice to say, I'm using proper hall-effect sensing - more details to come :-)
You say you're not worried about sparking - I would say it's a case of "just because it works doesn't mean it's done properly" - most of the DeLoreans electrics fall into this category!!! Switching a relay with a rising (or falling in this case) voltage such that you get a "timed" effect is one of the main reasons the lock module is so notorious. Drive your relays with a good hard sudden switch and they'll last twice as long.
I've just been playing with my system - the 2n2222 quite happilly switches the relay I bought - it has a DC resistance of 80 ohms.
Martin
#1458
shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hey Martin,
>
> Thanks for the input. Unfortunately i'm the only one who had the chance to go over my design until now. In order for the circuit to operate properly i need at least 75 ohms of resistance on the coil, unfortunately the rs model is only 66 ohm, so using the resistor brings it up enough to function. The 3904 (while not as common here as in the Uk) are readly available, and radio shack carries them so why not. The 2n2222 should work fine but i haven't tested them yet. I don't know why your rs part numbers aren't working, i just bought the parts the other day (don't know how rs work in the uk). I'm very eager though to see your fan fail indicator circuit though. As for sparking, i'm not worried about that. I haven't had any sparking yet, and if there is a momentary low of signal, it still takes 2-3 seconds for the capacitor to step back up in order activate the relay. I though the purpose of the fanzilla was to turn one fan on then have a delay on the second. The main fu!
> nction of this was to have one fan warm up before the other clicks on, creating a gradual instead of an imediate request of power for the car. If there both delayed i can't see how it would help, if one waits say 4 seconds to activate, the the other waits 12 seconds, one is still turning on before the other, please clairfy on this so i can make the nessary changes.
>
> - Shain
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:54:02 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: you're the next contestant on "Name that Hose!!!"
there are three hoses coming from the driver side of the engine bay, they
are grouped together and come out of the side of the bay's wall at about the
middle (front to back), at the very top of the bay.
the first.. that is the one closest to the back of the car.. is bent is such
a way that it leads me to believe it ran over the water/air/oil/ac hoses in
the area and the down toward the engine block right near the spark plugs and
then over toward the throttle area.
it appears to be a vaccum as there is a nylon fitting connecting to it.
it leads to nothing, and is attached to nothing currently.
what is it? and where is it supposed to lead and connect?
there are no adverse effects on the car... and one would guess there would
be if there were so blatent a vacuum leak.... the idle is the best it has
ever been, the car is speedier as ever... pulls hard to right when braking..
but new brakes are on the way for that.
any help??
Wink.... tell em what they'll win.
"Well, Bob, they will win a life-time supply of 001697's owner James
LaLonde's undying gratitude"
--james 001697
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 17:15:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Idle speed blues
I agree that most of those should have been recalls, but this is the first
that I've heard that DMC should have recalled David Teitelbaum or vin
10757. :)
-Christian
On Wed, 3 Apr 2002, jtrealtywebspannet wrote:
> The throttle recall campaign was initiated while DMC was delivering
> the early 81's. It was discovered that rain could get into the
> throttle cable by the engine and freeze causing the cable to stick. If
> you have a black cover over the throttle spool then you had the recall
> done. If you don't have the cover it is available from the Delorean
> venders along with instructions on how to fill the throttle cable with
> anit-freeze and some seals. Other recalls apply to the following
> Inertia switch
> Sway bar frame brackets
> Ball joints
> Other points for what would have been recalls IMHO
> Trailing arm bolts
> Fan Fail Relay
> Circuit Breaker and Relay Upgrade
> Central Door Locking Module
> Header Bottle
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, DHughes030@xxxx wrote:
> > David,
> > What is this throttle recall you mentioned and what condition did it
> correct?
> > Don, VIN 6860
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:34:17 -0500 (EST)
From: shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
Hi Martin,
The kick of the ac compressor (draw on the motor) was totaly overlooked by me (usualy i've drivin v8 were the kick isn't as noticed). Added an additional timer is a simple thing to do nether the less. The use of 2 transistors to drive the tip120 was to create a higher turn on voltage. All in all with some modifications and some good testing both of our designs will be helpful to all the do it themselfers on the dml. I don't believe that i did so bad for a person who isn't an electronics buff.
I think for the moment i'm going to use the stock relay sockets and wire them with test spade connectors so i can test new designs and ideas very easly while maintaining a stock look.
Were moving int he right direction currently. Now to just make a replacement light dimming circuit ;)
- Shain
#10140
----- In Response To -----
Hi Shain
The reason you need to delay both fans by DIFFERENT amounts is because the switching signal comes along at the precise instant the ac compressor engages. The compressor produces a considerable "kick" to the engine all on its own, so you let the engine recover from that, then switch the first fan on, then the second. You also have to examine how the fans behave as the signal is killed - do they cycle down in sequence as well or do they shut off immediately. Both ways have advantages and disadvantages which I've addressed based on personal preference - ie it's up to you how to build it.
I don't understand the function of your low side switch, and why therefore the load has to be at least 75 ohms total. All you're doing is creating a potential divider so that the relay switches at a lower voltage and the tranny controls a lower current. Just use a fatter tranny and let the relay have 12V - it's what it's meant to use after all...
My low side switch is one common emitter 2n2222 with the relay coil from supply to collector. My timing comparator switches the base through a resistor with an additional pull-down. (and of course a catch diode across the relay).
There is no UK equivalent of RS's website (rswww.com), and all the part numbers are common across the world (or so I thought....).
With the fan-fail light, I knew how to do it sometime ago, it was just a matter of finding the right part at the right price to allow it to be done simply. Suffice to say, I'm using proper hall-effect sensing - more details to come :-)
You say you're not worried about sparking - I would say it's a case of "just because it works doesn't mean it's done properly" - most of the DeLoreans electrics fall into this category!!! Switching a relay with a rising (or falling in this case) voltage such that you get a "timed" effect is one of the main reasons the lock module is so notorious. Drive your relays with a good hard sudden switch and they'll last twice as long.
I've just been playing with my system - the 2n2222 quite happilly switches the relay I bought - it has a DC resistance of 80 ohms.
Martin
#1458
shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Hey Martin,
>
> Thanks for the input. Unfortunately i'm the only one who had the chance to go over my design until now. In order for the circuit to operate properly i need at least 75 ohms of resistance on the coil, unfortunately the rs model is only 66 ohm, so using the resistor brings it up enough to function. The 3904 (while not as common here as in the Uk) are readly available, and radio shack carries them so why not. The 2n2222 should work fine but i haven't tested them yet. I don't know why your rs part numbers aren't working, i just bought the parts the other day (don't know how rs work in the uk). I'm very eager though to see your fan fail indicator circuit though. As for sparking, i'm not worried about that. I haven't had any sparking yet, and if there is a momentary low of signal, it still takes 2-3 seconds for the capacitor to step back up in order activate the relay. I though the purpose of the fanzilla was to turn one fan on then have a delay on the second. The main !
fu!
> nction of this was to have one fan warm up before the other clicks on, creating a gradual instead of an imediate request of power for the car. If there both delayed i can't see how it would help, if one waits say 4 seconds to activate, the the other waits 12 seconds, one is still turning on before the other, please clairfy on this so i can make the nessary changes.
>
> - Shain
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 18:52:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Travelling to Memphis
Group-
I have spoken with several people travelling to Memphis this June that will be passing through Knoxville, TN on the way there. Memphis is about a 6 hour drive from Knoxville- and if you are travelling from the NY/NJ area, far eastern portions of NC/SC, or anywhere that would have you pass through Knoxville on the way to Memphis...even Cincinatti or Atlanta could be included - Knoxville would be a good place to stop and rest before finishing that last 6hour leg to Memphis.
I have already spoken with 5 different sets of people planning their layover in Knoxville. What I have planned is to find a hotel that would best accomodate everyone in a decent price range. If some people get in early enough - we could all go out for dinner and then get to our rooms and meet at a set location to start our caravan to Memphis early Thursday morning.
If this sounds like a good idea and would like to meet up in Knoxville on the way, just let me know. I will go ahead this week and try to get an ETDOC group rate at a hotel. Also, mention this to other members of your caravan to see if they would all like to stop over in Knoxville on the way to Memphis. Let's try and make the trip down half the fun.
Regards-
Aaron Posey
ETDOC
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 21:58:21 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: FUEL ACCUMULATOR INSTALLATION
Jason,
I will take a stab at it, Personally, I don't replace the accumulator unless
I can put the car on the rack. I don't want the problem of leverage or the
right positioning. Plus I'm 220 LB's and 6 foot tall.
Then I made two wrenches to break the lines loose. The are extra long handle
14mm and maybe 19mm. The original factory warranty manual shows that it's . 6
hour. This is what Delorean Company as I understand it would be reimbursed
the dealer to replace unit. The actual R & R shop manuals may show 1 hour.
Drain the lines, prepare, find the right wrenches, tug on them a little to
see if what they are using is good enough. I would explain to the mechanic to
please be careful not to twist the upper connector. So, I wouldn't push them
to hard on the time and if they said and hour. and everything went OK, then
good.
John Hervey
<< Does any one have a step by step guide as to how to install the Fuel
Accumulator? Any pictures? The reason is I will have to bring my D
into a repair shop locally who would be billing me per hour and if I
show them that this should not take longer than "1/2 hour" I have
some recourse if they claim that it took them more time than this to
do or screwed something up. Also I would like to advise them of all
they need to know about the car, dangers, warnings etc.... before they
start work on it. Thanks everyone!
Jason >>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:01:43 EST
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: applying decals and bumper letters
Andy,
Very carefully break the shine of the area of the bumper inside the letter
indentations. Scuff the area good, and yes, it is hard to get to the thin
areas, but the main idea is to provide a large area for each letter to grip.
You will wash the dust off w/ clear water, dry it, and lastly, the alcohol
pads, and allow that to dry. At this point, put the letters exactly where
you want them, 'cause brother, they will stick!
Don, VIN 6860
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:25:47 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fan Blower Only #4 works
Jason, I have attached a small picture of the resistance unit. The total
ohmage between terminal 1 and 4 is 3 ohms. You can not solder if a wire is
broken. It gets to hot. It has to be crimped or replaced.
John Hervey
[Unable to display image]
<< I have been reading some past posts about the internal heater/AC
blowers however I did not seem to find some solid answers. It seems
like my D's blower motor only works on the highest level 1, 2 and 3
do not seem to work and 4 is nothing to scream about. Has any one
had any similar problems with a fix? Or maybe where to suggest to
look 1st?
>>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:17:47 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fan Blower Only #4 works
Jason, Blower motor speed on 1 and 2 work straight off the switch and through
the resistance wire.. Then voltage for 3 and 4 comes through the circuit
breaker and the 3 and 4 work off their own relay's and again feeds throght
the resistance wires. So the first thing i would check is the blower motor.
Hook it up to 12 volts and see if it turns easy. The if it does, see if the
resistance wires are ok. Easy to come out and look. Last, what voltage do you
have going to the blower motor. If you have only 10,11, volts. It won't turn
briskly. Low battery or alternator voltage.
John hervey
<< I have been reading some past posts about the internal heater/AC
blowers however I did not seem to find some solid answers. It seems
like my D's blower motor only works on the highest level 1, 2 and 3
do not seem to work and 4 is nothing to scream about. Has any one
had any similar problems with a fix? Or maybe where to suggest to
look 1st?
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:23:35 EST
From: DHughes030@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: FUEL ACCUMULATOR INSTALLATION
I would not agree to do it for 1/2 hr. sight unseen, if I were the tech. I/ve
studied its location, even had the fuel return line attached to it rupture
and it took all of 30 min. to swap it out in that confined space. (it was a
side of the road repair) Be a little more generous than .5 HR or do it
yourself, your tech is trying to feed a family (or buy a Delorean) too.
Don VIN 6860
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2002 22:42:49 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Fan Sequencer (delay box)
Does all this mean that if I come up with an addition to the Fan Zilla, Like
the Fan Fix I could call it the John Zilla Fix.
All this sound great, but as most of you technical engineers know. It only
takes Milli seconds for all this switching to take place and by the time the
engine is doing all this recovering, and the fans are trying to figure out
who's on first and come on is on second next and the compressor is on first
and third. . It's over. Milli seconds. It's like getting cut, by the time
you feel it, it's over. Please don't let me interupt you guy's. I alway's
like watching engineers making all these complicated moves over almost
nothing. Were talking milliseconds. By the time the engine felt the clutch on
the compressor come on, it's over.
John Hervey < :-)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 04:46:35 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Was Re: Idle speed blues Now Recalls
I appreciate the humor but the sign-off is so everyone knows it's not
Fatboy! Also from the vin you can guess what color interior, auto or
5-speed, and what recalls may have been done by the factory. By late
82 the recalls were done either in the factory or the QAC centers. On
many early cars I have seen some have not had the recalls done. The
recalls are serious business as if you are in an accident and the
inertia switch didn't unlock the doors and you are unconcious the
results could be dramatic! Same goes for the ball joints and the sway
bar brackets. The consequenses of a bad fan fail relay or the bypass
wire has resulted in Deloreans burning. A broken trailing arm bolt at
speed would spoil the rest of your day! This is why every owner should
get their car inspected by someone who knows what to look at. Delorean
Midatlantic at their annual spring event offers inspections by one of
the major Delorean venders free for all members. It is comming up soon
(April 26) so anyone interested should contact Dan D. Door adjustments
are also free for members so bring your car and join up. This is the
next best thing without doing recalls.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I agree that most of those should have been recalls, but this is the
first
> that I've heard that DMC should have recalled David Teitelbaum or
vin
> 10757. :)
>
> -Christian
>
> On Wed, 3 Apr 2002, jtrealtywebspannet wrote:
>
> > The throttle recall campaign was initiated while DMC was
delivering
> > the early 81's. It was discovered that rain could get into the
> > throttle cable by the engine and freeze causing the cable to
stick. If
> > you have a black cover over the throttle spool then you had the
recall
> > done. If you don't have the cover it is available from the
Delorean
> > venders along with instructions on how to fill the throttle cable
with
> > anit-freeze and some seals. Other recalls apply to the following
> > Inertia switch
> > Sway bar frame brackets
> > Ball joints
> > Other points for what would have been recalls IMHO
> > Trailing arm bolts
> > Fan Fail Relay
> > Circuit Breaker and Relay Upgrade
> > Central Door Locking Module
> > Header Bottle
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxx, DHughes030@xxxx wrote:
> > > David,
> > > What is this throttle recall you mentioned and what condition
did it
> > correct?
> > > Don, VIN 6860
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> > moderator@xxxx
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 00:04:44 -0800
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Travelling to Memphis
Sounds good to me! We plan to caravan with Darren and His Mom to Knoxville.
Bill Lane
#3635
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 01:17:34 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: you're the next contestant on "Name that Hose!!!"
These hoses go the carbon cannister (also called the vapor cannister). I
would argue that they are close to the backside of the engine compart
than the middle though. The carbon cannister store vapors from the fuel
tank. A hose runs (as a vent) from the fuel tank the the cannister (hose
3). The other two hoses are a signal (vacuum) to dispel the vapors, and
the hose which does the purging. The purge hose goes to the engine
intake. The signal hose goes just where you thought it did- under the
air intake.. The connector for your loose hose is underneath the "W"
shaped part of the air intake manifold... It's slightly to the left of
the rear center of the engine. It's a pain to get to, but the hose
should just slide back on where it belongs if you can get in there. You
may want to consider getting a new hose or a spring clamp if it's
loose... no vacuum=no purge. It's not important for the car to run, but
it does make your car more 'environmental'. Good luck.
Jim
1537
ps did I win? did I win??
On Wed, 3 Apr 2002 19:54:02 -0500 "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> there are three hoses coming from the driver side of the engine bay,
dot dot dot
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 08:04:00 -0000
From: "andy_verbrugghe" <Verbrugghe@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Moby
***** Moderator's Note *****
This is not going to start a rehash of DeLoreans in videos and
movies.
Mike G Moderator of the week
*****
Hello everybody
Did anyone see the new videoclip from Moby 'We are all made off
stars' ? In one shot you can see a Delorean with the doors open.
Regards from Belgium
Andy Verbrugghe
VIN#04610
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 09:01:58 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: you're the next contestant on "Name that Hose!!!"
If these are the hoses I'm thinking of, they are for the vapor
recovery system on the gas tank. It's supposed to burn up
excess vapors from the gas tank, rather than let them escape.
Confused? Let's explain!
Behind the access panel is the Carbon Canistor. All 3 hoses
connect to this canistor.
Hose #1:
Connects to the fuel filler neck on the gas tank. Gasoline vapors
in the gas tank will travel back to the canistor, and will be
collected inside where the charcoal within the canistor stores
them.
Hose #2:
This hose connects to the intake manifold on the motor. Once
the engine is activated, the vacuum created inside the manifold
will travel up the hose. This in turn activates a diaphram that
opens up hose 3.
Hose #3: This hose is connected to the same vapor hose that
the 7th injector is on (or as it's normally called, the Cold Start
Valve). Once opened by the vacuum diaphram, all gasoline
vapors within the carbon canistor are then sucked out, and into
the engine to be burned up, rather than evaporate.
Hose #4:
Ah-ha! The forgotten hose! This is a drain tube on the bottom of
the canistor! You can easily see this hose sticking out, on the
bottom of the rear pontoon. Now, the mystery here to me was
always this: What is it supposed to drain? I assume water, but
gas vapors are heavy too. So how would it be able to stop one,
but not the other? Then again, it's purpose is just speculation on
my side at this point...
The purpose of the diaphram on the canistor is to disallow any
gasloine vapors from entering the manifold while the motor is
off. It could be possible that they could run backwards thru the air
intake, and hit the exposed atmosphere. This is pretty
dangerous since they are extremly flamable! Just take a look:
http://www.lasvegassun.com/sunbin/stories/lv-other_cut/2002/
apr/03/c00031135.html
Plus of course this is also bad for the environment as well.
When gasoline, or any other petrol based products evaporate,
they don't just disappear. They will condense just like dew when
it gets cold enough. Now you know why gas pumps in smog
areas have vapor recovery nozzles installed.
All cars now adays have this same vapor recovery system
installed. You can't really see the canistor because typically it's
hidden behind/below/to the side of the left front head lamp,
behind the fender. But you'll find it on the Vacuum Hose Routing
Diagram on the underside of the bonnet. Or depending upon
where you're at, the hood. "Bonnet" just sounds so much more
sophisticated though =)
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxx> wrote:
> there are three hoses coming from the driver side of the
engine bay, they
> are grouped together and come out of the side of the bay's wall
<SNIP>
> any help??
>
> Wink.... tell em what they'll win.
>
> "Well, Bob, they will win a life-time supply of 001697's owner
James
> LaLonde's undying gratitude"
>
> --james 001697
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