To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: DeLorean for 17year old
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: DeLorean for 17year old
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
3. Failed Emissions: There is hope...
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
4. a/c drain questions
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
5. Delorean machined shift knobs and performance air intake, better than ever.
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Ok, its MY turn! (engine & other modifications)
From: "sk1pper_landry" <skipper@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. New Delorean DVD
From: "mytica_cr" <aceu@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
9. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: adjusting door?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Yet another TORSION BAR ? Help DMC Joe
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Rear pivot bolts
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
13. Last Try for LEXAN body
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Resurrection of Vixen Continues...rear glass
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Yet another TORSION BAR ? Help DMC Joe
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Failed Emissions: There is hope...
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
17. RE: a/c drain questions
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Buying a DeLorean on ebay
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
21. RE: a/c drain questions
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Small Electrical FIRE!
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. door problem
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. DeLorean at the movies.
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 17:23:02 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean for 17year old
The DeLorean is certainly not for everyone. But age shouldn't stop someone
from having their dream. Being young and owning one does have it's setbacks
though. Mainly insurance. I bought mine at age 18. Just so you all know I
worked VERY hard and paid for the entire thing myself, plus all of the
upgrades and restoration (minus the louvre struts which were a birthday
gift). I regret nothing!
For any other young people who are considering buying but want to know what
they're getting into, feel free to contact me and I'd be happy to talk.
payne
bpayne(at)macnet.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:31:18 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean for 17year old
In a message dated 5/6/02 6:41:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
Senatorpack@xxxxxx writes:
> To restore the car, work on it, spend lots of money, spend lots of time,
>
> really get to know what you are capable of mechanically, emotionally, and
> last but not least financially.
>
> If you buy a machine that has been completely restored from the ground
> up...you will work on it, spend lots of money, spend lots of time, really
> get
> to know what you are capable of mechanically, emotionally, and last but not
>
> least financially.
>
Mike,
i'm not really sure who you are speaking to (maybe i just didn't get the
original message yet) but i'd like to add to this conversation.
i was 18 years old when i bought my DeLorean. i looked at a few of them
(mostly on ebay) but then i contacted a DML'er and eventually bought his. i
was impressed by the condition of the car and the work that had already been
done. the car looked like it was almost perfect - i knew it needed lockzilla
and new window regulators and the temp gauge didn't work - but that was about
it, or so i thought. since then (Nov '00) i have done the following to what
i thought was an excellent car:
lockzilla, fixed tank sender, new fuel pump and all other tank parts, sent my
entire fuel injection to Grady for service and cleaning, replaced the
waterpump and all flexible hoses, replaced both oil senders, fixed my T/A
dust shields, replaced my temp gauge and temp sender, replaced my pivot bolt,
replaced window regulators, fixed my seat backs, replaced my angle drive,
replaced LOTS of rusty hardware, replaced all my injectors, clips, hollow
bolts, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, plug wires, coil wire, ignition
coil, mode switch, fan switch, alternator, belts and bearings, A/C blower
fan, recharged the A/C, rear headliner and outer door seals, stainless bumper
letters, new centerforce clutch kit w/ tranny removal and service, new
steering column bushing, and done COUNTLESS hours of cleaning things and
making things show-car quality such as shampooing the carpets, steam cleaning
the underbody and engine, rebrushing the stainless.... and i'm sure i left
out about $1000 worth of little things, not to mention a new stereo.
i paid $16,000 for my car, and i'm sure i've put at least $5,000 into it. in
two weeks i'm putting a new radiator and cooling fans in, and this winter
i'll need new tie rod ends, steering rack, and intermediate shaft with
U-joints. and THEN i THINK i'll be done..... but you know how it is - as
soon as you think you are done, you find something else. my dad accuses me
of looking for things to fix, and it's the truth. when you have a car this
cool, you can't stand to let it be anything less than perfect.
what i'm trying to say is, just like Mr. Pack mentioned, no matter how
perfect your prospective car seems to be..... expect to put some hardcore
cash into it unless you can live with a less than perfect car (i can't).
in fact, thru all of this, i still feel like i got a hell of a deal on my
car. sure i've done lots of work to it, but when i see a lot of the cars out
there, i KNOW that mine is in better shape and more reliable. but it hasn't
come cheaply.... i've seen a couple of cheaper cars, and i'm glad i didn't
get stuck with one of them. if you don't mind spending all of your extra cash
and then the cash you don't have yet, then get a DeLorean. if you can't live
like that, you should probably wait until you can afford to throw money
around!!!
Good Luck,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 01:45:01 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Failed Emissions: There is hope...
Like others here on the list, the renewal for my car came, and I too
failed my emissions. I took my car in to the local DeLorean Mechanic,
and now my emissions are perfect! Previously, I had installed a new
ignition coil, and Oxygen sensor. So, after installing a new set of
sparkplugs, wires, cap & rotor, and performing a CO adjustment, my
car is running much better, and is able to pass smog. I don't have
all of the stats offhand, but what I was failing on were the
hydrocarbon emissions. Here are the before and after for the results:
Legal Limt on HC's: 220ppm.
Before:
HC@2500 RPM=210
HC@Idle RPM=1136
After:
HC@2600 RPM=7
HC@Idle RPM=60
So this is to show everyone that there is hope their cars can pass
smog. Now my idle no longer seeks upon start up, accelleration is
smoother, startups are quicker, no more gas/petrol smell, and the
engine finally purrs after all this time. So, what was the problem?
Crappy, aftermarket sparkplug wires! I had a set of Blue Thunder
wires from an Eagle Premier. They had the boots to keep water out,
but they apparently don't work well at keeping voltage in!!! The
mechanic said that on all but one wire had arcing on the sparkplugs.
They had all cracked. The rotor, cap, and wires were all Borg-Warner
products about 14 months old. That's what I get for not following the
rules. But it just goes to show that even my DeLorean was able to be
brought back well within specs. And of course that just because a
part may fit on your car, it doesn't always work right!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 20:06:36 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: a/c drain questions
Two questions in one:
A friend's DeLorean is missing the condensate drain hose. Does anyone have
any experience replacing this?
Sometimes when I pick up the rear of my DeLorean, a lot of water drips from
the drain hose. Is this normal, or do I have a blockage somewhere? My a/c
gets a musty smell if it isn't run for a few days. Nature of the beast?
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 22:38:13 -0400
From: "Casey Putsch" <chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean machined shift knobs and performance air intake, better than ever.
I'd just like to remind those of you who haven't yet seen my Machined
Delorean Shift knobs that they are done and for sale. Also, my performance
airbox that was the source of soo much controversy is now redesigned and
better than ever. And for you worry worts that thought it would get hot and
heat up the incoming air, well when I was at my motor builder we hit it with
an infared thermometer and on a 80 degree day with the car sitting still
with the engine at 190 degrees H2O temp the airbox was only 120 degrees at
the bottom and 90 at the top. I looked at him and said "and those guys
thought it would get hot and heat up the airflow (LOL)" He said....... uh,
nevermind, you can imagine what he said. I would also like to say that for
the next week I'll cut anyone a better deal on all my products, since I'm in
a good mood. I invite you to see my site, at the very least I have a new
beautifull Delorean picture at night on it.
Go to http://putschdesign.tripod.com/PPD/
Sincerely, Casey Putsch at chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 05:16:25 -0000
From: "sk1pper_landry" <skipper@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ok, its MY turn! (engine & other modifications)
[Subject line changed by moderator for clarity]
Since the unfortunate encounter with the median a few weeks back, I
have done my research and now have a plan. The first parts were
ordered today, and I now have a small army of friends at my disposal.
(I had to barter my home and tools for there help, so every sat. is
car work day! If your in the area, feel free to look me up! I'm in
the phone book!)I will be doing a frame off fix. (I have some rust
too)
There have been a few changes as far as my short term plans, but the
long term goal is still in play (a 400+ hp TT PRV-6). I have recently
acquired a 1984 Fiero in a trade which has changed my plans somewhat.
The new plan is to not buy anything unnecessary at the expense of
redundancy.
The Fiero will untimately be transformed into a Diablo, but not until
the DeLorean is running good. So I now have a Vortec 4.3 liter Chevy
on the ground that came loosely bolted in the Fiero. Since the Fiero
is basically the same setup (rear engine), I will temporary use the
setup I have planned for the Fiero in the DeLorean.
I know, I know, its not right to rip out the PRV for a bowtie, but
funds and a longterm plan dictate this is a small,but acceptable
short time sacrifice for the bigger plan down the road. So the 4.3
will be my power plant till I get the PRV done.
Also, since she will never be in origional condition again, I have
decided to polish all the DEEP scratches out. Since this will
ultimately remove all the grain, I will also be doing somemore
improvemeents to her, but what a trade off! I am still working with
the machineists down here for the SS facias but have added a new
idea: a SS custom center console. I feel there is so much potential
in bringing the SS INSIDE the car. Plus the center console is, in my
opinion, wasting so much room and style.
As soon as summer is in full swing where i have lots more time, I
will be updating my site and giving 10's of 100's of new pics.
Also she will be going to NOPI in Ga. in September with over 50 of my
friends and there cars. (If I get on TV, I'll post here!)
Well wish me luck, and dont worry, she WILL represent DeLoeans
properly. She'll be different than yalls, but she will be impressive!
Skipper Landry
Project Redhead
www.sk1pper.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 06:34:24 -0000
From: "mytica_cr" <aceu@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Delorean DVD
The upcoming Delorean DVD will now include the original Dealer Film.
See www.BrilliantScreen.com for details.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 06:48:15 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
A while back, I needed to do an oil change. I went to Autozone to
get an oil filter. But neither of the 3 stores I went to stocked the
BOSCH filters I was seeking. So, despite warnings, I went
ahead and used a FRAM filter. And juding by my last oil change, I
could have paid a price for being a hypocrite. After all, I always
reccomend using DeLorean specific parts, yet I didn't use them
on my car...
Pulling the filter off was a chore. Before this, I've only once
needed a tool to pull an oil filter on any vehicle. But this time, I
needed to crush the filter with tongs just to grip it. I then had to
put my body weight into it to finally spin the filter! And yes, I
ALWAYS lube the rubber ring on the filter with fresh oil before
installing.
Once removed, I noticed that the inside of the filter didn't quite
look right. Upon closer inspection I discovered that the filter
inside had COMPLETLY DETERIORATED!!!! The filtration
material was a complete mess. And the "bypass valve" on the
filter had colapsed, and was sitting off to the side. So I doubt that
this filter even cleaned anything. Aside from being a mess, I'm
just hoping that nothing has broken loose, and gotten into the
engine. Everything seemed pretty intact, but it did tear apart a bit
to easily for my taste.
If anyone is interested, I have uploaded pictures into the
"Photos" section. This is a great companion to the pics that
James Espy from DMCH uploaded. His are "before", and these
can be considered "after".
DeLorean or not, I will always replace the oil filters on my cars
from now on with the exact same ones that the manufacturer
used!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 07:32:49 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All,
Install the rear glass, as it is a structural element and may affect
the alignment of the doors (I wonder about this. Is that really the
best course of action? I would really prefer to reduce the risk of
breakage by not installing it until the doors are aligned and
tensioned... Could I just install some wooden shims to hold the
window frame in the correct position?)
> 2) Install the T-panel and align the doors to the T-panel. (Seeing
as how I don't have any other body components on the car yet, I can
not line them up to anything else -- I'm not even sure if the lock
striker pins have been moved.)
>
> Comments on / additions to this procedure are of course welcome,
and greatly appreciated. Looks like it may be a lot of trial and
error...
> -Dave Stragand
> VIN #05927
> http://www.projectvixen.com
Dave,
You are doing it Right,Install THE doors FIRST,then align all the
Other PANELS to the door(s),as that IS how it was done at the
factory,as the doors being the heaviest(and hardest) part to align,it
is easier to get the Doors(s)to open and close correct,(again the
factory aligned the doors to the black body/door pins)and then
install(ed) the rest of the panels to align with the perfectly
opening/closing doors,rather than aligning the heavy doors to the
panels,the only time you align the doors to the panels,is when you do
door hinge replacement to a "D" with bad hinges.You could also get
some metal (flat stock) plates(3)or more your choice,(cut to fit the
window area)and clamp them(vertical) to the lip areas where the rear
window goes,the reason for CLAMPING the metal plates down is to keep
the up/down movement ridged,as you tensioned the bars,(and open and
close the door(s)since there is the possibility of misalignment,and
you could leave them on until you install the rear window(with the
door(s) closed)when removing the flat stock metal bars,to install the
window.
Hope this helps
Claude
000570
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 04:21:02 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: adjusting door?
The information you are looking for is located in the Workshop Manual
P:02:07. Diagrams are located in the Parts Manual 8/4/0, 8/4/1, and 8/7/1.
DMC Joe:
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] adjusting door?
> Where can I find a COMPLETE (door off replacement start to finish) door
> adjustment proceedure with diagrams?
> Rustproof
> #1559
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 04:29:05 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Yet another TORSION BAR ? Help DMC Joe
Dennis,
You asked:
"...... how many degrees of rotation is typical from the Zero
NO LOAD to a normal doors up position?"
The answer to your question is 1/4.
You also asked:
"..... Is it possible to permanently distort the torsion bar by over
torquing it to compensate for a week lift strut. How much rotation is TOO
MUCH?"
No. You would break your adjusting tool (ratchet, Allen key, etc.) long
before you would break the torsion bar.
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
[quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 04:41:39 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear pivot bolts
Adam,
You asked:
"......... What should I clean it with?"
We use Westley's Bleche-White for all frame and suspension component
cleaning. Be sure to use this product in a will ventelated area and avoid
breathing the fumes.
DMC Joe
Tech Information, DMC Joe Help Club, & Store
"Summer Parts Sale"
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
DeLorean Website Directory www.dmc.tv
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 08:34:51 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Last Try for LEXAN body
Ok, last call for anyone who has a LEXAN car shell from the 80's sold by
D1 and by Fred Lockett. If Fred reads this have you found any? I know
you have been busy moving. Thanks in advance for any help locating
one. I have three JRL radio control BTTF II cars that I got at TOYS
"R" US a long time ago. One is still in the box, one is used and works,
the last one died and is in pieces. I want to make a real R/C car that
is professional and not a toy.
Thanks Tom
#05732 MT
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 12:21:31 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Resurrection of Vixen Continues...rear glass
Dave,
I would recommend using the procedure Rob outlined. The rear glass
is a structural component that will affect door install and operation.
And for an extra piece of mind, I have several spare rear glass in
case your break yours. Your only cost would be a drive to Chicago.
As long as you are careful and take your time with the door install
and torsion bar adjustments, you should be fine. To be even safer,
I cover the back glass with a few folded beach towels or a foam sheet
whenever I am doing door adjustments by myself.
Good luck and hope to see you and Vixen at Memphis.
Later,
Rich W.
>snip<
> I did mount my driver's door and new passenger door on the hinges,
and did some preliminary lining up. Rob had suggested a course of
action for the alignment that I will now outline:
>
> 1) Install the rear glass, as it is a structural element and may
affect the alignment of the doors (I wonder about this. Is that
really the best course of action? I would really prefer to reduce the
risk of breakage by not installing it until the doors are aligned and
tensioned... Could I just install some wooden shims to hold the
window frame in the correct position?)
> 2) Install the T-panel and align the doors to the T-panel. (Seeing
as how I don't have any other body components on the car yet, I can
not line them up to anything else -- I'm not even sure if the lock
striker pins have been moved.)
> 3) Tension the torsion bar, and check alignment and motion. If
incorrect, release tension on torsion bar, shim, and retension torsion
bar.
>
> Comments on / additions to this procedure are of course welcome, and
greatly appreciated. Looks like it may be a lot of trial and error...
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 07:18:23 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Yet another TORSION BAR ? Help DMC Joe
To the question
"...... how many degrees of rotation is typical from the Zero NO LOAD to
a normal doors up position?"
DMC Joe answered "1/4".
I'm sure he meant approximately 90 degrees.
At a recent PNDC tech session, we had to chase the threads and replace a
bolt for the splined torsion bar retainer. With the door held in the
fully-up position, it took about 90 degrees to unload the torsion bar
(after removing the splined retainer so that it didn't hit the rear
window). We cleaned up the splines, chased the threaded holes, rotated
the bar 90 degrees, slid the retainer from the tool to the torsion bar,
tightened it up, and were within a spline of perfection. The struts
were new.
Gary
IN2TIME
5612
www.IN2TIME.com
www.PNDC.org
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:02:53 EDT
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Failed Emissions: There is hope...
For those of u who are failing the emmsions test, there is a product used
here buy some inspection stations. It is called power foam made by Amsol. You
spray the whole can into the engine, while running(it is a big can) let it
sit for ten minutes and then start the car and run it to burn it out of the
engine. My D does not have to have the emmsions test here in Mass, but I used
it to get rid of a rough idle. I had a Nission that I could not get the
emmsions light to go off and repalced all the senors and tuned it, the garage
told me to use power foam and the emmisson light went off and stayed off, the
car passed no problem.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 09:32:09 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: a/c drain questions
Walt
You probably have some leaves turning into mulch in the bottom
of your A/C box. Leaves fall throught the screen over the
cowl and decompose in the bottom of the air box. It's a bear
to clean out, as with the fan removed you can *just* get your
hand bent around to touch the muck. I used a wet/dry vac with
a length of heater hose attached to get the stuff from the blower
side, then blew air back into the drain hose from the other side.
Eventually, you can get most of it out.
Mike
[duplicate quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 14:50:00 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
Has your D ever overheated? I've seen this before on another car
and it turned out that the car overheated and "cooked" the oil
inside of it. Made a big mess and the oil pretty much solidified
everywhere making it look like some sort of material when actually
it was the oil all hardened up. We took off the filter and it was
caked inside like from what I can see in your photos and also we
removed the valve covers and it was all caked on all over the valve
springs. Now I'm not saying your engine overheated but maybe the oil
you used was not heavy enough? I've used Fram filters on every one
of my cars for as long as I can remember and never saw that happen
before until my friends car overheated very badly.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> A while back, I needed to do an oil change. I went to Autozone to
> get an oil filter. But neither of the 3 stores I went to stocked
the
> BOSCH filters I was seeking. So, despite warnings, I went
> ahead and used a FRAM filter. And juding by my last oil change, I
> could have paid a price for being a hypocrite. After all, I always
> reccomend using DeLorean specific parts, yet I didn't use them
> on my car...
>
> Pulling the filter off was a chore. Before this, I've only once
> needed a tool to pull an oil filter on any vehicle.
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 14:55:21 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
Sorry forgot to add this to my previous post: From what you
described stating that the filter was impossible to remove leads me
to believe that the engine indeed may have gotten to hot. The rubber
seal on the filter can "fuse" itself to the engine since the heat
would burn off the thin oil that is placed on the seal when the
filter is new. Or it could be you put it on to tight when it was
installed the first time.
Steve
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 11:34:14 -0700
From: Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Buying a DeLorean on ebay
Hey folks,
I'm probably an exception to the rule, but I found mine on ebay. Admittedly, you can't find an easier way to shop and you can be extremely choosy with just a click of the mouse.
When the right one came up (desired combination of features), in the right price range, with a detailed, favorable description (including carfax info, many pictures, etc.), and in the right geographical location. . .
I bid. And won.
And on my way to get the car, I figured if it wasn't as described when I got there, I wasn't buying it. Simple as that.
And a long days drive is (in my opinion) *Nothing* compared to actually purchasing a lemon and living with it for many years.
So, when I got there, it wasn't exactly as described.
It was much better. And to top it off, they had it meticulously detailed.
It's been almost a year now (knock on stainless), and although there are some things that will need some love and attention as usual, it's a great car, and I'm looking forward to sharing it will y'all in Memphis- as well as seeing yours!
-providing it doesn't conk out on us during the 15 hour drive! :-)
Oliver Holler
VIN#10694
http://www.time-car.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 10:21:20 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: a/c drain questions
MISSING?! Where did you look for it?
On 1860, I had to remove the air box to replace a leaking heater core. The box was loaded with "junk" and did not smell so nice either. Good indication that I should clean out the drain hose.
On 6068, the hose is easily seen on top of the frame rail through the fuel pump access point. Although I could see the 1/2 inch of hose inside the car on 1860, I could not find the other end of the hose over the fuel tank area. I spent some time trying to fish the hose out, but the solution ended up being to turn the hose from the inside until the end appeared where it was supposed to be over the frame rail.
The point of my story, the hose may be there but hidden between the fiberglass body and fuel tank. Look to see if the 1/2 inch end is inside the car, or if the drain hole not connected to anything. Pull back the rug on the passenger side, the location should be obvious.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 8:07 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] a/c drain questions
>
>
> Two questions in one:
>
> A friend's DeLorean is missing the condensate drain hose.
> Does anyone have
> any experience replacing this?
>
> Sometimes when I pick up the rear of my DeLorean, a lot of
> water drips from
> the drain hose. Is this normal, or do I have a blockage
> somewhere? My a/c
> gets a musty smell if it isn't run for a few days. Nature of
> the beast?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 11:40:17 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Small Electrical FIRE!
Almost a heart attack too!
While finilizing a few wiring harnesses in the back of the car for a speaker amp for the 4 speakers in the car, a small 12 gauge wire that was grounded on one end, fell and the other end touched the positive terminal on the battery.
ZAP!
The wire went up in smoke after turning red hot and melting a small piece of carpet.
Now that everthing is cleaned up, the engine seems to be running a bit rough. I have no idea if this has had anything to do with it or not, but after this short circuit, the engine sounds like it is going to stall when the car is running.
normal? am i nuts?
suggestions?
Does a short circuit have any possible affects that would cause this?
any help is appreciated!
thanks
Kenneth
05541
[Post slightly cleaned up by moderator for readability]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Tue, 7 May 2002 11:32:16 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: door problem
I had contacted a DeLorean repair shop to arrange an appointment to adjust my lazy driver's door even though new struts were installed on both doors. I also squirted a small amount of penetrating oil into the hinges. Having taken delivery of the car recently, I used it about 5 days straight, opening and closing the doors many times. Amazingly 2 days ago, the door began to come to life, and open like a charm.
HOWEVER, now when I attempt to enter the car and open the passenger door, when the handle is lifted I can hear the doors lock. The key unlocks the doors. This does not happen from the drivers side.
Will the installation of Lockzilla correct this?
Marvin Stein
#17707
website: printeddrinkware.com
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
tel: 519-434-1666
fax: 519-434-7071
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 11:21:30 -0600
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: In a word, FRAM Oil Filters SUCK!
[MODERATOR NOTE: I'll continue to allow editorials on this subject, with the reminder that they are editorials. - Mike Substelny]
There ARE quality aftermarket oil filters out there. But, NEVER use a Fram
filter. Years ago they were a quality filter, but they were bought out and
the quality dropped. They're now riding on that earlier reputation and lots
of advertising. They use cardboard for the end caps of the filter element
instead of stamped steel like most manufacturers.
Here is a pretty good comparison of a variety of filters:
http://www.dorianyeager.com/oilfilterstudy1.html
It was originally written by a Mopar enthusiast, but has been copied to
this location. It does a comparison of construction quality, and the
filtration material used. It's not a perfect study, but it does allow you
to draw some conclusions about the various brands of filters based off of
their construction quality.
That said, you can't go wrong with a filter from the DeLorean parts
vendors. But, you can also find quality aftermarket filters if you go
looking for them.
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 06:48 AM 5/7/02 -0000, you wrote:
>A while back, I needed to do an oil change. I went to Autozone to
>get an oil filter. But neither of the 3 stores I went to stocked the
>BOSCH filters I was seeking. So, despite warnings, I went
>ahead and used a FRAM filter. And juding by my last oil change, I
>could have paid a price for being a hypocrite. After all, I always
>reccomend using DeLorean specific parts, yet I didn't use them
>on my car...
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Tue, 07 May 2002 17:50:00 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean at the movies.
Yesterday I drove the Delorean to the theatre to see Spiderman, and a
guy came over to talk to me about the car. He offered to buy it on
the spot, for 15,000!! I am actually considering it, since I bought
the car for 12,000. I could sell it and save up a little bit and get
a better car with fewer problems.. Like a refurbished one.
Oh yeah, Spiderman was pretty cool also.
Adam
[Moderator note: Stories about DeLorean adventures are acceptable, but please don't discuss movies, music, food, or whatever else you were doing at the time. - Mike Substelny]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN