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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Oil sender?
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. E-Gremlin, door locks and window
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Interior and coolant question
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Power Surge in 1st Gear
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Oil sender?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Radiator Flush!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. To engine cover, or not to engine cover...
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: hugo mederos <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Memphis Pics
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Delorean alternative,,,act quickly!
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Interior and coolant question
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: E-Gremlin, door locks and window
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Power Surge in 1st Gear
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: To engine cover, or not to engine cover...
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: Power Surge in 1st Gear
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Power Surge in 1st Gear
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: To engine cover, or not to engine cover...
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Interior and coolant question
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
20. Re: Re: Oil sender?
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Oil sender?
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. silicone underneath t panel on top of car
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: vendors and other scammers
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: vendors and other scammers (Long Reply Again)
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
25. Re: Oil sender?
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 09:27:51 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Oil sender?
From under the car on the driver side, look up at the side of the engine. In the area behind the lower AC pulley you will see a large (21 mm maybe?) nut looking thing with a wire attached to it. Thats the switch.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx [mailto:RJRavalli@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Friday, June 07, 2002 3:29 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Oil sender?
>
>
> A while back someone on the list told me to check my sender
> for the oil light for an oil leak mainly at the rear left side of
> the engine. Where exactaly is this part located? Can you see
> it better from underneath or above?
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 09:34:42 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: E-Gremlin, door locks and window
I was trying to help a friend last night with a electrical gremlin, We had no luck..
1. rolls down the driver window, the doors unlock and the lights on the AC panel go dim.
2. unlocks the door, the windows slides down a very small amount.
With that, I thought there may be a common ground between the window motor and door lock solenoid that is loose, so they were running in series.. but some testing revealed:
A. When the door is unlocked, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds (like when you first turn the ignition on) even with the fuel pump relay REMOVED.
B. With the door lock module disconnected, The driver side door unlocks (only) when the drivers window is put down.
It seems obvious to me there is some sort of short between these 2 circuits, but Looking at the wire diagram the harness that goes from the lock solenoid to the lock controller has no other connections in between. Is there something missing from the diagram?
All suggestions welcome, but for now I left the door lock module disconnected and the solenoid in the driver door disconnected.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 14:32:51 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Interior and coolant question
The coolant leak from the front of the car is a warning. It is either
a leaky hose connection or the radiater or both. It is probably a good
idea to do a total coolant system overhaul if you don't know when it
was last done if ever. On a Delorean you must have a tight and
reliable coolant system. If you can, pressure test to 15 psi for 15
min and watch for leaks and hoses that swell up. The origional
radiater has plastic tanks that will leak before they BLOW OFF!!!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all... been a while since I have been on the list...
>
>
> third: I have a small coolant leak in the FRONT of the car... it
> only leaks after the car warms up... otherwise it's fine... I have
> looked and look, and cannot pinpoint where it's coming from....
> since it only does it when it's warm... is there a section on the
> radiator that is an overflow?
>
> I was trying to see how to remove the radiator but I am no
> mechanic...
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 10:36:26 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Power Surge in 1st Gear
Hello folks,
Got a new symptom today that I'd like to have an opinion on. From a
complete stop I accelerate moderately and normally and all of a sudden the
car will lunge back like the engine stops for a second and then then it
resumes and drives fine. The is now becoming constant at every stop and
acceleration. It is like the you lose power for a few seconds like when you
are out of gas but it only happens from idle/stop to about 15MPH and it does
not happen in any other gear at higher speeds. So you know some history on
the car, the complete fuel system has been replaced from the Gas tank to the
Fuel Distributor. Thanks for any help
Jason
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 14:39:17 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil sender?
The oil sender you are refering to lights up the oil light. It is
located on the left rear side of the motor and can easily be seen from
underneath. It is very common to leak and it can be removed,
disassembled, resealed with silicone (sensor safe), and reinstalled.
When it leaks it looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking. You may
also have to replace the wire going to it as it is usually pretty
crisp. The sender by the oil filter is for the gauge. If it is leaking
Marty Maier has an improved replacement that makes the gauge more
accurate.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> A while back someone on the list told me to check my sender
> for the oil light for an oil leak mainly at the rear left side of
> the engine. Where exactaly is this part located? Can you see
> it better from underneath or above?
>
> Any help would be appreciated...I am hoping my persistent oil
> leak is just (or mainly) being caused by this and not something
else.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Richard
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 14:41:50 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radiator Flush!
Sounds to me like the first 5 customers will be paying for this shop's
flush machine and you are #1. $200 is obscene.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> No. Sounds very wrong. Do it yourself. $12
>
> Instructions at http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm
>
> The bleeder mentioned may also be purchased as a kit from several of
> the vendors.
>
> Dave S
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> > Ok .. i just got a quote from a local garage for a rad flush ..
$200
> >
> > something sounds VERY strange
> >
> > i was told .. their rad flush machine will not accomodate a
> DeLorean and
> > that they would have to REMOTE EVERY HOSE AND TUBE connecting to
> the rad
> >
> >
> > does this sound right?
> >
> > is there an easy way?
> >
> > i am thinking perhaps of doing this myself
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 11:44:38 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: To engine cover, or not to engine cover...
That is the question! :)
Any reason it would be bad to drive my car to Memphis with no engine cover? Just the louvers?
I ask because I still have a list of things to do including adjust the engine cover latch and time is getting short. My thought was to just leave it off..
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 09:21:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: hugo mederos <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
Thanks Dave for the update.
Amazing work.
Too bad we could not watch you on the web cam to see
you in action.
Good luck on the trip.
Hugo PHX
--- "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I'm finally wrapping up the interior... only the
> center console and headliners are left to go, and
> we're reskinning the seats tomorrow. The exterior
> is likewise just about ready... cleaning, brushing
> and detailing are all that remain.
>
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 16:26:47 -0000
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Memphis Pics
It would be great if we can organize in the photo section a folder
for the trip and sub folders for each individual.
For all of those that did not get a chance to go there this year.
Can't wait to see them
Thanks
Hugo vin2800
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 16:32:31 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean alternative,,,act quickly!
For those Delorean lovers that aren't so fond of the mechanics of the
car....this car is for you!
ebay number 1832650502
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 16:37:12 -0000
From: "miami5606" <miami5606@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Interior and coolant question
Mike on the leather seat dont use armor all.
I'm using a good brand leather protector I got recomemded from my
local auto parts store.
On the center vent crawl behind your consolget a flash light turn
your car on and turn your air on.Look for a Hanger type wire pluger
I think I i remember right its going to your controler.
When you push on it you will see it will open the center vent.
If you put positive pressure on it it will remain open for you.
Good luck.
Hugo vin 2800
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all... been a while since I have been on the list...
>
> What is the best recommended "care" product for the interior of
the
> Delorean? I have been using Eagle-One Tire Care "wet Look" but
was
> told it will probably dry out my seats... I have also heard bad
> things about armor-all
>
> second: my AC works great, but the center vents do not work... I
> can fill a tiny bit of air... but not a lot... yet it pours out
the
> door vents... any ideas?
>
> third: I have a small coolant leak in the FRONT of the car... it
> only leaks after the car warms up... otherwise it's fine... I have
> looked and look, and cannot pinpoint where it's coming from....
> since it only does it when it's warm... is there a section on the
> radiator that is an overflow?
>
> I was trying to see how to remove the radiator but I am no
> mechanic... I am thinking about buying the whole coolant kit from
> DMC houston...
>
> any help appreciated... and thanks!
>
> Mike
> 855
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 17:45:43 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: E-Gremlin, door locks and window
There is a common element between the fuel pump and the door locking
system. Check to make sure the inertia switch is wired properly as the
ground for the fuel pump runs through it and the unlocking circuit for
the doors so if the switch is wired wrong maybe the circuits are
crossed there. As to why the windows move try the cigarette lighter
(just kidding!). I suspect if you straighten out the door lock problem
the window problem may go away. Start clearing the problems one by
one and some may go away by themselves. I think the inertia switch is
the nexus here. You may still have a grounding problem with the doors
but you have to start somewhere.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> I was trying to help a friend last night with a electrical gremlin,
We had no luck..
>
> 1. rolls down the driver window, the doors unlock and the lights on
the AC panel go dim.
> 2. unlocks the door, the windows slides down a very small amount.
>
> With that, I thought there may be a common ground between the window
motor and door lock solenoid that is loose, so they were running in
series.. but some testing revealed:
>
> A. When the door is unlocked, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds
(like when you first turn the ignition on) even with the fuel pump
relay REMOVED.
> B. With the door lock module disconnected, The driver side door
unlocks (only) when the drivers window is put down.
>
>
> It seems obvious to me there is some sort of short between these 2
circuits, but Looking at the wire diagram the harness that goes from
the lock solenoid to the lock controller has no other connections in
between. Is there something missing from the diagram?
>
> All suggestions welcome, but for now I left the door lock module
disconnected and the solenoid in the driver door disconnected.
>
> Thanks
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 17:48:39 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Surge in 1st Gear
If you want to assume the problem isn't in the fuel system then that
leaves the ignition system. When was the last time it was tunned up?
This could be bad ignition wires and or worn plugs or a bad ignition
coil.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jason Jones" <jason@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Hello folks,
>
> Got a new symptom today that I'd like to have an opinion on. From a
> complete stop I accelerate moderately and normally and all of a
sudden the
> car will lunge back like the engine stops for a second and then then
it
> resumes and drives fine.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 13:40:04 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: To engine cover, or not to engine cover...
> Any reason it would be bad to drive my car to Memphis with no engine
cover? Just the louvers?
I think you are okay as long as the plug wells have the plug wire caps
properly seated and tight. It seems that the purpose of the engine cover,
besides for looks, is to deflect most of the water from coming down on top
of the engine and let it run to the sides. Going long term without the
cover could get some nasty corrosion into the deep casting channels in the
top of the block.
Walt
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 13:44:25 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Surge in 1st Gear
This problem sounds like a loose electrical connection to me. The inertia
of the car can make/break the faulty connection. I suggest temporarily
wiring up a test light at the fuel pump (watch for sparks) and see if the
light blinks off with your acceleration problem. Also check your grounds:
From battery to frame and another connection at the front of the car (on top
of the frame toward the inside of and in front of the left front wheel.)
Walt
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 13:47:10 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
I think you are wasting your time trying to make the springs settle using
static compression. The springs need to be 'broken in' using dynamic
fatigue which means that they need to be repeatedly compressed/decompressed.
The best way to do this is to drive the car. Of course your front alignment
will be off, but as Doc Brown said, "What the hell."
Walt
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Message: 17
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 20:32:04 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Surge in 1st Gear
Sounds like your baffle's not doing its job and you're low on fuel?
My car does this when extremely low on fuel, used to do it on anything less than half a
tank
Martin
#1458
Jason Jones wrote:
> Hello folks,
>
> Got a new symptom today that I'd like to have an opinion on. From a
> complete stop I accelerate moderately and normally and all of a sudden the
> car will lunge back like the engine stops for a second and then then it
> resumes and drives fine. The is now becoming constant at every stop and
> acceleration. It is like the you lose power for a few seconds like when you
> are out of gas but it only happens from idle/stop to about 15MPH and it does
> not happen in any other gear at higher speeds. So you know some history on
> the car, the complete fuel system has been replaced from the Gas tank to the
> Fuel Distributor. Thanks for any help
>
> Jason
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 20:29:32 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: To engine cover, or not to engine cover...
I drove my car around for a week or so with no engine cover. The
holes for the support bracket had broken, so I replaced the cover
with a new one. I had no problems driving mine with no engine
cover. In fact, the engine should stay a little cooler with the cover
off. You have probably already done this, but make sure your
engine compartment light is disconnected.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> That is the question! :)
>
> Any reason it would be bad to drive my car to Memphis with no
engine cover? Just the louvers?
>
> I ask because I still have a list of things to do including adjust
the engine cover latch and time is getting short. My thought was to
just leave it off..
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 18:04:44 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Interior and coolant question
In a message dated 6/6/02 11:23:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
iqmpike@xxxxxxxxx writes:
<< I have a small coolant leak in the FRONT of the car.. >>
Probably the plastic end cap leaking thru the gasket where the cap is crimped
to the core....Probably time for anew radiator.
<<second: my AC works great, but the center vents do not work.
Check to make sure the rubber hoses leading from the forward center vent
housing ducts are actually connect to the center vents.... or missing
completely.
Jim 6147
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Message: 20
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 20:13:46 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Oil sender?
I have read in several places that the oil light sender leaks....is there a
detalied explanation of how to remove, clean, silicone and put back on?
mike c
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 00:19:06 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil sender?
It's about what you just wrote. Find it, unhook the wire, unscrew it,
put a little sealer on a new one, screw it back in. You don't even
need to jack up the car.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, billsfanmd@xxxx wrote:
> I have read in several places that the oil light sender leaks....is
there a
> detalied explanation of how to remove, clean, silicone and put back
on?
>
> mike c
>]
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2002 00:16:38 -0000
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
Subject: silicone underneath t panel on top of car
should there be black silicone underneath the t panel on the car.It
is only in a few spot and is about 1 inch thick.Is this normal?, when
the doors are fully open on my car they rub on the t panel.I have
been trying to figure this out for a while but with no luck.I would
asume that this silicone is the problem. Also should the t panel be
inline with the doors when they are shut, any help would be
appreciated very much thank you
bfreyguy@xxxxxxx
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Message: 23
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 19:22:29 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: vendors and other scammers
Seems like things like leg work and research and development aren't expected
to be included in the cost of DeLorean parts in some folks minds. My
father-in law always used to look at something and say " I'll bet a fellow
could make that." Sure he probably could now that someone has laid the
product under his nose. I don't know of a machine shop anywhere that will,
for example, turn down the extruded aluminum blocks for the rear spring
holders and drill and tap the holes for tightening them around the shock for
$50 including materials. I've been an engineer with a major auto
manufactuerer for 38 years and I have to say that the prices I've seen from
the various vendors are no more inflated than the parts prices for your
Ford, Chevy or Honda. Try $900 for a Ferrari distributor cap or $25,000 to
replace the NSX rear quarter panel. IMHO there are a few egos that could
stand a dose of humility out there. This list is made of folks from all
walks, some with a serious engineering background and some who can't even
find the battery in their car. There's no reason it can't be kept friendly.
Bruce Benson
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2002 15:20:53 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: vendors and other scammers (Long Reply Again)
In a message dated 6/6/02 11:02:27 PM Central Daylight Time, jwit6@xxxxxx
writes:
>
> I've been on the list now for about 8 months. And although I see some
> attempts to share information concerning generic parts and alternative cost
> effective solutions, I also sense a certain amount of hostility from
> vendors
> who seem to think that the list is thier own personal venue, sometimes
> taking
> the opportunity to discredit or squelch alternatives.
>
> I've had vendors approach me and encourage me not to post detail about
> certain things. EFI upgrades for instance. Why? Because they wanted to make
> sure that they had a crack at marketing something of thier own, rather than
> having the owner community know how to do it themselves.
>
> My recent post on shock absorber alternatives for instance. The
> condescending
> nature of a reply, by a member who I believe has a vested interest in
> marketing his own front and rear shock set up is a recent example. The
> front
> shocks, as near as I can tell from their web site are Gabriel G63902 Gas
> Ryder VST LT off a Nissan 1/2 ton 69-81. I just picked up a pair for $19.00
> each at Autozone. The rears are Chevrolet Camaro all with multi-leaf rear
> springs inc. Z-28, 1968-1969 All, Gas Ryder VST 69606 in a Gabriel, or
> Monroe
> Sensa Track/ Napa Gas Charged Deluxe Sensa Track (NS5803), which is what
> they
> appear to be selling. The Monroe Napa units sell for $24.95 a piece. Their
> kit is $284.00 as I recall. So you get 4 over the counter shock absorbers
> worth $90.00, and end up paying an additional $194.00 for two aluminum coil
> spring seat collars (that your local machine shop can fabricate for less
> than
> $50.00) and 4 spacers you can get from the hardware store for less than a
> buck apiece. This is simple gouging.
>
> Needless to say I went into the basement, and spent about an hour at the
> lathe making the ride height adjustable coil spring seat collars I needed,
> from about $4.00 worth of aluminum, and got the front spacers from Ace
> Hardware.
>
> I do have some fears that if I continue to disclose what I learn on the
> list,
> that maybe I'll offend the only vendor that one day has something I need,
> and
> that maybe I'll find myself blacklisted. But if that's ever the case, then
> I'll know the Delorean is a marquee that I'd no longer want to be
> associated
> with.
>
> Here's a suggestion for the vendors. Market a shock spacer and collar kit.
> One for the Monroes and one for the Gabriels. Maybe another for KYB's etc.
> The only diff is the diameter. Sell it for about $39.95 a set. You'll make
> some friends and gain a great deal of loyalty.
>
> Jim 6147
>
>
Jim,
Well, first I'd like to say that I am glad to see that the subject line of
your posting has gone from "Rear Shocks" to "Vendors and other Scammers" I'm
assuming you now place me into the category of "Other." You are entitled to
your own thoughts and opinions and it seems apparent from your posting that
I'm not going to change that. All I can say if that if you have the tools and
equipment and posses the knowledge and skills to build a better mouse trap,
then have at it. I'm all for improving things and making them bigger and
better and safer and faster, no problems. But what I see here is not someone
who has done this. What I see is someone who has just taken an existing
product that was developed and has evolved over the years to the point it is
at today, thru the help of many other Delorean owners, and just copied it
because he has the means and skills to do so, and then turns around and tells
everyone on the mailing list how they are getting ripped off by this original
product.
Jim, if this is what you think, then you are more then welcome to do
exactly what you did, make your own. And if you want to make more of these
kits and sell them yourself or even give them away, believe it or not, I
don't care. What I care about is the fact that the information you supplied
in your original posting is not correct, but it seems this discussion has
turned away from that.
I originally developed this kit years ago, before you became involved with
this mailing list. I developed this kit because at the time, the original
supply of Girling replacement shocks were all but gone and none of the
vendors had a replacement avaliable. I was interested in finding an
alternative shock that I could use for my own car. Over a few years of trial
and error and testing and many parts tried and discarded as not being
acceptable, I ended up with a shock setup I was happy with for myself and my
own use. Other Delorean owners saw this setup and asked me if I would make a
kit for their car, and that's what I did. One thing lead to another and the
kit was put up on our club web site so other Delorean owners could gain
access to these parts and information. Since that time, other Delorean
vendors have developed their own shock kits which have now become avaliable.
As owners we now once again have options from which to choose. I just offer
an alternative for other Delorean owners to have if they want it. I do this
to try and help other owners out, believe it or not.
If you think I'm getting rich doing this, then think again. I too, am a
professional engineer and I can tell you I can make 10 times more money
working at my profession for a couple of hours then I can making the parts to
put a shock kit together. If I was doing this as a business, I would have
gone broke long ago.
You talk about the $4 chunk of aluminum you used to make your collars on
your lathe in your basement, but I guess the hour or so it took you to make
each collar is free, huh ? And the lathe must be free also. And the hour or
so it takes to modify the shocks is also free. And then you spend a couple of
bucks for the other misc parts. Oh, and to ship a 15 pound shock kit across
the country must be free also. And this is all to just copy an existing kit.
Sound great to me. Lets see, $90 for the 4 shocks, $4 for the chunk of
aluminum and 4 spacers from ACE hardware at a buck a piece - total $98
Tell you what, I'll pay you $100 for every complete kit you can deliver to
my door step, no problems. The cash is waiting.
Oh, and when can I schedule that free installation ??? And do you have a
spring compressor you can loan me ???
Marty
aka "The Scammer"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 2002 21:03:03 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil sender?
23MM to be exact.
Bill Lane
#3635
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