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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Erratic idle speed
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Erratic idle speed
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Transmission
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: tuff transmission
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Windshield Replacement
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Windshield Replacement
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: My Door light is always on
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: **tear ?1982 DMC for sale
From: "Skipper Landry" <skipper@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
10. Re: tuff transmission
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Transmission debris
From: "NJPIII" <NJPIII@xxxxxxx>
12. RE: Windshield Replacement
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Windshield Replacement
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: Windshield Replacement
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: My Door light is always on
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
16. Air con Compressor
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. floor mats
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 15:52:42 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Erratic idle speed
Richard,
If you have ruled out electrical, check out this other possibility.
I had similar symptoms that you described in your original posting
on one of my project cars a few years ago and after checking out all
electrical possibilities, I moved on to possible fuel delivery issues.
In this case, I had some incorrect fuel line "under the bonnet".
After replacing the fuel line with correct diameter, high pressure
fuel lines, the problem went away. Even if this is not the cause of
this problem, you may want to replace all original rubber fuel lines.
Glad to see that these two project cars went to people who are willing
to spend the time, effort and money to get them back on the road, even
if it is "the other side of the pond". I was close to making these
two project cars my next projects (last spring) but you beat me to it.
Keep up the good work.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Richard Johnstone <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi, thanks for all the responses
>
> 1) Although Idle is erratic, the engine _seems_ to run evenly -
could two of the wires
> still be swapped? I will be checking this anyay, but thought I'd
ask.
> 2) As soon as the idle speed microswitch is released, the engine
goes nuts and threatens
> to stall, so I don't think it's the switch.
> 3) Control pressure reg has been reconditioned by a reliable source.
> 4) Unlikely to be moisture as the car's been inside for over 9
months, and the whole
> enigne's been stripped :-)
>
> Richard
> #2727
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 17:45:41 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Erratic idle speed
Hi Richard.
When troubleshooting, I always check the easist potential failure-
mode I can think of first, in this case that's probably the spark
plug wires themselves and their sequencing, since changing the wires
is what appears to have brought about the trouble. Besides, checking
the sequence is pretty easy compared to checking some other things,
so not much time is lost checking it out. If on the other hand, you
investigate a lot of other hard to check things first, and find out
that it was misconnected wires all along, you'll be saying "Doh".
Your comment about the engine running evenly makes me less confident
in my initial assessment that spark plug wires might be swapped. I
would expect swapped wiring to result in noticeable roughness to the
idle.
Having said that, I'd still start troubleshooting by checking the
sequence, since it's easy to screw up, and easy to check. I would
wait to consider other things that might be wrong until I had
eliminated this possibility.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Richard Johnstone <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi, thanks for all the responses
>
> 1) Although Idle is erratic, the engine _seems_ to run evenly -
could two of the wires
> still be swapped? I will be checking this anyay, but thought I'd
ask.
snip
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 09:52:03 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission
It sounds as though you still have the original plastic fluid line.
When it heats up, it expands and drops the fluid level and gives the
shifting symptoms you describe.
Replace it with one of the new Stainless Steel braided lines and your
problem will probably disappear.
Bill Lane
#3635
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 17:52:13 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tuff transmission
Willie - The first things to look at would be the various pieces of
linkage. There are a number of parts that need lubrication and
periodic adjustment ... bell crank pivot pins, some bushings, the
cable that operates the fore/aft movement of the transmission shifting
forks, and the "U" joint components connected to the shifting rod that
handles rotations. The best way to access the forward end is by
removing the shifter boot. You'll see the bell crank and various
parts of the linkage. Examine everything carefully, and if all seems
well, clean and lubricate with light grease or heavy oil that is
compatible with rubber (I use an oil with Slick 50 as an additive).
There are specific torque values for some of the pivot pins. Check
the shop manual. For the aft end, the only recourse is to get under
the car, and do a similar inspection of the rod and the cable as they
hook up to the transmission. There are some bushings connected to the
rod that can migrate out, making the linkage bind a little, and
can also create some play in the linkage. The cable routing should be
as straight as possible. If all of the linkage is okay, you may be
getting low on oil in the transmission. I recommend (with the usual
disclaimers) Redline MTL for the transmission. This oil tends to make
the transmissions operate very smoothly. (This is all based on having
a nominal level of mechanical ability, tools, and facilities for
getting under the car)
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, wmack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> My transmission has started giving me troubles. It is beginning to
>get difficult to make the shift from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th. I am
>having trouble moving the shift lever from left to right and right to
>left. This morning on my way into work in took 2 hands to shift into
>5th. Any ideas what the problem could be?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 12:03:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windshield Replacement
Safelite is a chain. I have used them for windshield replacements on other
cars. They did good work.
Mark Fearer
3072
Manchester, New Hampshire
On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Gleb Remishevsky wrote:
> HI All,
>
> This is my first post. I bought my car two months ago.
> It's in a good shape, but the windshield is cracked and needs to be replaced.
> I found a National company that has Delorean windshield.
> It's "Safelite Auto Glass".
> Delorean is listed on their web site http://www.safelite.com/
> Click on "to schedule auto glass service" to get to the list of the cars.
> The price is under $300 and they came to your home for free.
> I know that ideal place to replace the windshield is to go the place such
> as P.J.Grady,
> but for those who live too far this could be a good alternative.
>
> Did anyone used this company before ? Are they reliable ?
>
> I'm planing to make an appointment in a few weeks.
> I'll keep you posted on the results.
> Thanks
>
> GR
> Vin#3406
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 18:00:47 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windshield Replacement
One member of PNDC (Seattle area) has used Safelite, and was happy
with the results. The Safelite windshields are slightly heavier than
OEM, but otherwise fit very well. The brand that they use is LOF.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Gleb Remishevsky <gremishe@xxxx> wrote:
> ...the windshield is cracked and needs to be replaced.
> I found a National company that has Delorean windshield.
> It's "Safelite Auto Glass".
> Did anyone used this company before ? Are they reliable ?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2002 23:18:44 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My Door light is always on
David - The "door open" light is controlled by one of the switches
along the forward door opening. The switch arm should have a rubber
extension tip on it to make it long enough to be pressed in by the
door when it's closed. If the rubber tip is missing, the switch may
not get pressed in far enough to shut off the warning light. Check
that first, and then get back to us if it's something else. You can
use a vacuum port plug or short length of vacuum hose to replace the
tip if it's missing. You can also replace the OEM switch(es) with
Volvo part number 1362769, which is a similar switch that can be
adjusted to length, and also can be locked into the "off" position to
shut the door lights off during a car show or whatever.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "deloreanman7777" <DavidBloom722@xxxx> wrote:
> I have been having this consistent problem, whenever i drive my
> delorean the open door warning light is on but my door is closed.
> anybody have any ideas?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 20:24:53 -0500
From: "Skipper Landry" <skipper@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: **tear ?1982 DMC for sale
its a 1982, (made in oct '81) ive updated/upgraded:
- 5 spd
- grey interior (I dont know the difference in the grey and dark grey)
- flat hood, no lines, no flap (ive not seen many of these, it has a clean
look to it)
- you can hang meat inside!! the AC is C-O-L-D . . . .
- the electrical
- battery
- fuses
- relays
- fan fix
- tankzilla
- have the tabby bolts (not installed, installed when an alignment is done)
- brake pads and rotars are larger cross drilled
- DMC Houston lowering springs
- angle drive and new dust cover (for the speedometer) **NOTE**the odometer
is off by about 8-10k for a true 17-19k miles
- tires have less than 10k
- interior is origional and almost flawlless
- has Alpine CD player and Boston Acustics speakers
- new hoses and belts
- facias are freshly painted
- there are a few things needed to make it almost perfect, namely in the
gen. maint. dept. (tuneup, alignment, fluids need to be changed, etc.)
things wrong:
- drivers window isnt working (tested the switch, it works)
- the front sway bar is a bit bent on one end, drives fine though (cost =
$125 DMC Houston and 30 min).
- "B-B" size pit in the lower drivers door ( I have no idea about it)
- needs new door seals in the next year or two
- need to touch up some of the trim peaces (a bit on the dull side, not to
bad for 20yrs though)
- needs a tuneup
The interior has no cuts, tears, fades, dask cracks, etc. of any kind. It
has a new (1yr old) headliner, and it even has the cargo net. the center
console buttons still have the aarows on them. Its in better shape than my
'94 civics interior (women!). The frame has no visible rust or breaks or
bends, but im unclear as to what you are asking about it.
I personally was planning a trip to NOPI in late Sept. which will be held in
Atlanta, Ga., so I personally would not think twice about a trip to Dallas.
Maby in dumb. Most of the miles on it that I put are ones from BR to NO
(100+miles), and BR to laff (80=miles). Ive driven it to DMC Houston to get
parts when i first got it, and on spring break in Pannama City.
I really dont know of anything major, I drove it daily in stop and go
traffic until recently. Im sure there are thngs I just dont know to mention,
or dont realize that may be wrong, after all, im not a mechanic, but i know
how I treat it. I treat it like a normal car. Normal things go wrong
sometimes, but thats a 20 yr old car. . .
Please let me know if im being unclear about anything. I'm trying to be as
115% honest with the condition as I can. ITs not a perfect car, but it is a
great car. I don't want you to be mislead in anyway. I would HATE that.
- Skipper
Thats all i can think of right now. Oh, and im in Baton Rouge, La.
----- Original Message -----
From: <mroboto@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2002 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] **tear 1982 DMC for sale
> I have seen your post on the DML regarding your DeLorean.
> How many miles? Any rust on the frame? Interior/Exterior condition?
Location of the car to view it? If you would like to call me, you can reach
me Saturday late afternoon on my cell phone (407) 222-4721. Thanks!
>
> Take care!
> Daniel Deutsch
> (Orlando)
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 22:40:33 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Braided cluth lines... and their loving replacement
Standard steel brake line, available in standard generic lengths from places
like NAPA, is very easy to route down the center of the car and easy to tuck
up between the frame and body for the length of the car. I used 2 seperate
pieces and a coupler. When I replaced my plastic line, Isimply left the
original in place. Fittings to adapt to both the clutch master cyl and the
slave are readily available for about a couple of bucks each. Feel is
improved. From a practical point of view, I don't see the need to go with
braided or stainless for that matter. But again, just my opinion. Total cost
since I did it myself was about $20.00. Hardest part was getting to and
bleeding the slave.
Jim 6147
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 03:02:01 -0000
From: "basfe25" <drrub46@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: tuff transmission
Check all of the rubber bushings on the shift linkage and check to
make sure the pivot bolt isn't bent. There is a shift cable that I
now has a tendacy to rub against the chassis where it exists and the
plastic coating on it wears/tears on it. Once that happens water can
get into it and cause it to stick. One way to repair it without
taking it off the car would be to use the plasti-dip they use on
tool handles (sold in home depot). It's a liquid that when you dip
your tool handles into it creates a rubber coating on them. You can
brush this on to fix the gash if there is one. You will then have to
try and lube the cable up too. Again, check the bushings on the
linkage, mine were either missing or torn and made it hard to shift.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, wmack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> My transmission has started giving me troubles. It is beginning
to get
> difficult to make the shift from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th. I am
having
> trouble moving the shift lever from left to right and right to
left. This
> morning on my way into work in took 2 hands to shift into 5th.
Any ideas what
> the problem could be?
>
> Thanks
> Willie
> Vin 5043
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 18:45:27 -0000
From: "NJPIII" <NJPIII@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Transmission debris
Hello all my first post here looking for some help
Part time DMC tech full time service Mngr at Delorean Cadillac yes
there is a relationship older brother of John owns dealership.
have a car here which used to have a single turbo. Installed veh
trans was sent out 2 years ago for overhaul as trans could not take
power from the turbo and lost all gears,car sat finally installed
trans was done by rob at PJ Grady driven for about 40 miles then
started losing gears, installed pressure gauge and find it loses
almost all pressure after 20 seconds after starting,removed pan found
xs debris blocking filter, cleaned reinstalled and tested again ok
for about 4 miles then problem starts all over again have a nos
valvebody installed it and same condition again ???
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2002 22:32:11 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Windshield Replacement
Gleb and List,
I had my windshield replaced at a local Safelite shop based on a
recommendation from a trusted body shop owner. I had been told that
Safelite would only install glass that they supplied, but this shop
assured me that they had experience with DeLoreans, and that they would
gladly install a vendor-supplied NOS windshield. I scheduled an
appointment at the shop when the person with experience would be there
(to ensure to ensure that he did the job). I had the windshield shipped
from the vendor directly to the shop.
I was initially pleased with the "quality" of the work. In reality,
they had allowed the front of the t-panel to drop down slightly, and
hadn't completely sealed it. The next time I drove/parked in the rain,
water came in by the courtesy light. I found out when I returned to the
shop, that a different employee had done the work "under the expert's
supervision". They removed the top trim piece, and I put some rubber
shims under the front of the t-panel before they sealed it better and
re-installed the trim. No more leak.
Much later I noticed that the windshield seems a bit recessed at the
top, as if it was installed at a slightly steeper angle than the
original. Since this is where the outer seal meets the door, there is a
slight gap where wind and water can get around it (but not all of the
way into the car). I don't know if there were supposed to be spacers to
hold the glass out to the correct position, but something like that
would have been helpful.
I suspect that the vendors (or the people they subcontract the
installations to) know how to do it right the first time. This is
especially important, because each time the black trim, door seals,
etc., are removed, there is a potential for scratching, bending, or
otherwise damaging these parts.
The bottom line is that even though the local Safelite shop had a great
reputation, and had worked on DeLoreans before, they didn't seem to have
enough experience to know how to align everything right. I definitely
would NOT want anyone without significant DeLorean experience to ever
replace the windshield again. At least not without me there to make
sure they did it right (now that I have "experience"). :-(
Gary
IN2TIME
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 09:38:51 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windshield Replacement
Gleb,
The only drawback about the aftermarket windshields is that it has a
Golden tint,(it can only be seen in bright sunlight) and the fact
that it does not have the DMC logo/part number stamped on it,otherwise
they are a great windshield.
Also I remember reading about the warehoused factory windshields(the
ones after the factory closed)having a big problem with delamation,on
the edges of the windshields.this was back when Consolidated
International owned them in their warehouse.Don't know if DMC of
Texas sorted them out.(the good and the bad ones)But either way I am
100% sure you will get a good windshield.(OEM or aftermarket) As I
bought Two aftermarket windshields for Deloreans and both were VERY
well made,with no distortions or waviness looking thru the windshield.
Claude
00570
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Gleb Remishevsky <gremishe@xxxx> wrote:
> HI All,
>
> This is my first post. I bought my car two months ago.
> It's in a good shape, but the windshield is cracked and needs to be
replaced.
> I found a National company that has Delorean windshield.
> It's "Safelite Auto Glass".
> Delorean is listed on their web site http://www.safelite.com/
> Click on "to schedule auto glass service" to get to the list of the
cars.
> The price is under $300 and they came to your home for free.
> I know that ideal place to replace the windshield is to go the
place such
> as P.J.Grady,
> but for those who live too far this could be a good alternative.
>
> Did anyone used this company before ? Are they reliable ?
>
> I'm planing to make an appointment in a few weeks.
> I'll keep you posted on the results.
> Thanks
>
> GR
> Vin#3406
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 14:32:20 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Windshield Replacement
The replacement windscreens will not have a wire in them for the radio
antennae so if you have if you have an early car with the antennae in
the windscreen you will have to consider doing something else. Your
options are to drill a hole in the front right fender, tape a wire
inside the car on the windscreen, or go "all the way" and install a
retactable antennae in the left rear pontoon.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> One member of PNDC (Seattle area) has used Safelite, and was happy
> with the results. The Safelite windshields are slightly heavier
than
> OEM, but otherwise fit very well. The brand that they use is LOF.
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Gleb Remishevsky <gremishe@xxxx> wrote:
> > ...the windshield is cracked and needs to be replaced.
> > I found a National company that has Delorean windshield.
> > It's "Safelite Auto Glass".
> > Did anyone used this company before ? Are they reliable ?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 12:29:51 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My Door light is always on
David wrote,
> I have been having this consistent problem,
> whenever i drive my delorean the open door
> warning light is on but my door is closed.
> anybody have any ideas?
Do you courtesy lights work? You wouldn't happen
to have a switch (like the battery saver from DMC Joe)
or a blown or removed #12 fuse?
If this is the case, put the power back onto the circuit
and your "door ajar"light will stay off.
This is a very common occurence, it came up several
times in the past year or so, look in the archives.
Good luck,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 11:16:54 +0100 (BST)
From: Paul Salsbury <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Air con Compressor
Hi all
In my quest to re-install an air con system in my car,
I would like to know the following.
Is the any way I can test the compressor with out the
system being full ( I have no condenser or accumulator
yet)
When should the 'live' feed be going to the
compressor( I presume thats the red wire going into
the to)
As there is no gas I also presume I will need to jump
the pressure cut off by the accumulator too again how?
Thanks in advance
Paul
#6463
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2002 10:06:05 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: floor mats
I met a guy who works at a auto parts store, at the Memphis show. I think he
was from California (maybe). He said that he could get custom cut and bound
carpets to fit the front 2 floor areas. He had a grey pair in his car - not
embroidered. Would he please contact me directly.
Marvin Stein
#17707
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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