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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Door Trim Removal.
From: gmfm1@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
From: gmfm1@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Heated Door Struts?
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
6. RE: Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?(and commercials)
From: nathan galloway <boomkari@xxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: weather seals, AND DOOR ALIGNMENT HELP
From: nathan galloway <boomkari@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: DeLorean Literature? (A SITE ALREADY EXISTS)
From: "Tamir Ardon" <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Meeting a fellow D Driver.
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: LIVE THE DREAM COMMERCIAL ON DVD?
From: delorean <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
11. door struts
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
13. Re: Heated Door Struts?
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
14. Southeast Texas DeLorean Event (and warehouse sneak preview)
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
16. THINK - Ideas for a "new" DeLorean?
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Meeting a fellow D Driver.
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Where does it go????
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. K-mart Battery
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Re: Instrument Cluster Lens
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: louvre paint
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: RE: weather seals, AND DOOR ALIGNMENT HELP
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Investors Film
From: "James" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
24. No wipers when it's cold?
From: Josh Weader <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
25. Champion Battery
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 01:38:08 -0000
From: gmfm1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Door Trim Removal.
Hi Robert,
I have had my bottom door panel driver's side off a number of
times. The panel goes on first and then the handle is inserted into
the hole. Then the fun begins as you have to put the two 10mm bolts
back that hold it in place. I use a socket and a 6 inch extension,
1/4 inch drive, and work around the internals to get the bolts in the
holes. I do this with the door being held about half way open with a
hook attached to some heavy cable with a loop in the end. The loop
goes over the locking bolt in the body and the hook catches the lock.
You may have to close the lock as if the door is closed, SO DON'T
FORGET TO REOPEN IT BEFORE COLSING THE DOOR! I sit on the edge of the
car while doing the work. Hope this helps.
Happy Holidays,
Gary Masie
>
> Then on to the reassembly!
>
> Does anyone have any advice on reinstalling the lower trim
> panel? Specificly the door handle. It looks like I need to bolt
this
> peice in first before the trim panel. But the lip on the outside
> holding the trim panel makes this to say the least 'challenging".
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 01:51:19 -0000
From: gmfm1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
Hi Tyler,
Playing with springs without the proper tools and some
experience can be very dangerous. I have never changed Delorean
springs so I won't even try to tell you how, just be careful because
I saw one guy almost lose a finger.
Good luck,
Gary Masie
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 02:39:56 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics
The guy who made this model did this about 6 years ago,,,,when he was
16. He doesn't work for any model company, he just made it from
scratch. I'm sure he took a Back to the future model and worked from
there, but still. he did a GREAT job!
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> How the heck did this guy do this? That is a very small model.
Does he
> work for a special effects studio or something? He is really good.
>
>
> Joseph
>
> Vin 2850
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <delorean502@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxx>
> Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 12:43 PM
> Subject: [DML] Ultimate 1/24th scale delorean pics
>
>
> > Hi,
> > The same guy who made the Transformer Delorean also made a 1/24th
> > scale delorean from scratch. I have uploaded pics to the PHOTOS
> > section under ULTIMATE DELOREAN. He made everything work, he also
> > made a frame for the car. The headlights works, and he even made
> > torsion bars for it. It really looks good. Check it out
> >
> > Erik
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> > moderator@xxxx
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 02:49:11 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heated Door Struts?
Not heated, but temperature-compensated. I believe this uses a
temperature sensitive valve in the strut that cuts or meters the flow
when hot, and opens up when cold (and the gas has less pressure).
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Are these struts actually heated or are they using a gas that isn't
> affected by temperature as much as our DeLorean struts?
>
> -Christian
>
> On Mon, 3 Dec 2001, David Swingle wrote:
>
> > This should not be all that far-fetched. They have used these on
> > minivan tailgates for years.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 22:29:35 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
I lowered just the front of mine with the springs Rob at PJ Grady offers.
Pictures of my car are on the SDS Racetech projects page at
http://www.sdsefi.com/features/nov01del.htm
With the springs out it's an excellent time to replace as much as you need
to, including any rust repair that might need to be done around the lower
control arms and their frame mounts. I found the best spring compressor to
use is the two piece type that fits on the outsides of the springs. You'll
need to position them at about the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. There is just
not enough room to use the internal type. You can get them to use from
Autozone for free and since they only offer two types, internal and external,
you should be able to get the same ones I used.
Jack the car up, lightly support the lower a-frame with another jack to
remove the extension load from the shock and remove the shock. Remove the
pivot bolt from the upper control arm and position it out of the way. Take
care to not stress the brake lines. Removing the brake caliper from the
steering knuckle will give you more room to work. Compress the spring and
remove it. You need to align when you're done. Also give the car some time to
settle into the new springs before you align. Lube the spring seats properly
upon reassembly to avoid squeaks.
Jim
6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 20:13:28 -0800 (PST)
From: nathan galloway <boomkari@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?(and commercials)
Hello every one
here is an awsome delorean site that has TONS of
articles, specs sheets and other literature. the home
site is
http://www.entermyworld.com/index1.html
with most of the articles at
http://www.entermyworld.com/articles/index.html
there are some others available in other pages in this
site however. and someone was also speaking of the
live the dream commercials. this guy has video you can
down load of the commercials, to documentaries, to
videos of cars.just go to these pages and click on
what you want to see on the left hand window.
hope this helps. wishing all a great season.
byeybeybeybeybeybeyb
nathan galloway
boomkari@xxxxxxxxxxx
1981 vin 5220
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 08:28:49 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Free Copies of DeLorean Literature?
A few years back, there was a guy on Ebay selling all
sorts of odd-ball
stuff. I contacted him to ask if I could scan all of
the documents
before he sold them in order to compile information to
post on the web.
He said that he was already working with someone on
the DML to do this.
He gave me the name (it was one I recognized), so I
figured I would sit
back and wait. I still has not appeared on the web.
Maybe I will see
if I can find the details in my old mail.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping.
http://shopping.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 20:56:57 -0800 (PST)
From: nathan galloway <boomkari@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: weather seals, AND DOOR ALIGNMENT HELP
hello all
james' problems is similar to one im having. ive only
had my delorean for a few months now. when i first got
it both doors where PERFECT. now that the weather has
dropped the driver door has become out of alignment
slightly. if you close it again and again both latches
will aventully catch but it seems the rear driver
latch is the one not wanting to catch all the time. i
wasnt sure if i need to ajust the tortion bar, my door
shocks, my latch pin or the adjustment inside the door
(if i understand it correctly) any hints or tips would
be greatly appriciated. i have the pj grady manuals
but they dont cover this for some reason (not that i
have found) perhaps there is a web tech section on
door adjustment someone could recommend.
reading back over james problem his sounds alot
worse than mine. my door is only slightly out, just
enough to make closing it securely a problem. i have
found if i close it and lock it at the same time it
stays shut yet still isnt closed completely. that cant
be good for the door.i appologize if this has been
covered numerous times. im fairly new to the list but
an learning very fast thanks to everyone. THANKS
many thanks ahead of time. have a great season and
best wishes to everyone. byebyebyebyebyebyebyebyeb
nathan galloway
boomkari@xxxxxxxxxxx
81 vin 5220
-----Original Message-----
From: James LaLonde [mailto:krfds@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 1:13 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] weather seals, and door alignment help
i just installed new door seals on the car and now,
after the doors
have
been sitting in the up position for a day and a half
the passenger side
door
is horribly mis-aligned. from the top it looks like
the door's 'roof '
section is sitting too far forward toward the
windshield, and when
closed
the doorseems too tight in the front and too far out,
or loose, in the
back.
could leaving the doors open for 1.5 days do this? my
workshop manual
isn't
very clear on alligning the door, can someone help me
out a bit more.
could
it be the weather seals 'pushing' the doors out of
place?
oh yeah, i used the earlier vin's door seal design, my
car is a june 81
-james lalonde
_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at
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To address comments privately to the moderating team,
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__________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 23:20:44 -0800
From: "Tamir Ardon" <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Literature? (A SITE ALREADY EXISTS)
Dear List,
To those who don't know about my site, I suggest you stop by sometime to
take advantage of the time and money I have put into a project similar to
the one Stian has suggested.
The web-site has everything a DeLorean onwer/fan would want. There are over
100 articles/newspaper clippings neatly organized, dozens of video downloads
from Television appearances Mr.DeLorean has made over the last twenty years
as well as DMC sitings on the tube. Of course there is a lot more to go
with all this. The best sections for documentation of historical items and
video/articles are the ARTICLES section, the D's ON TV section, and the
PROPAGANDA section.
The site address is: http://www.entermyworld.com
Give yourself a few good days to see everything on the site, it will take
you that long. :)
Enjoy,
Tamir
http://www.entermyworld.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 02:05:25 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Meeting a fellow D Driver.
Today I was on my way to the mall to do some Christmas shopping when a dude
came running up to me. He said that he had a delorean also and was parked on
the other side of the building so he hoppedi n and we drove over to his. I
parked right next to him and it was awesome. People were really interested
in seeing two of them next to each other! Also he told me that a store in
the mall had the sunstar models so we went in and bought ourselves one.
While we were looking at them the guy at the counter was telling us stuff
about deloreans. stuff like, "the engine is in the back". I responded with:
"Yeah I know, mine is parked outside, right next to his". The guy at the
counter was totally in shock.
Well I just thought I would share my delorean experience of the day. Also, I
really like my sunstar model. the detail is good, and I didnt know it would
be that heavy!
Adam
>From: P12C16@xxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] sunstar delorean customizing
>Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:35:10 EST
>
>Does anyone have any ideas on how to make a door pull strap for the sunstar
>that matches the interior color? What materials would work well? Anyone
>else done any other special mods?
>
>Patrick
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 12:25:51 +0100
From: delorean <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: LIVE THE DREAM COMMERCIAL ON DVD?
Hi Kevin and others,
When you say someone can transfer the commercial on to DVD, does this person
have the original 16mm film, or are you talking about a NTSC VHS video
transfer to DVD?
My point is that quality matters! :) For an excellent transfer the original is
a must or at least a very, very good video copy.
No point in having a bad video copy transferred to DVD in my opinion. I'd like
a clean sharp picture and sound, both the LIVE THE DREAM Commercials and the
DMC film for potential dealers.
Again, does anyone have the originals of these rare films?
If you have, don't sit on them. You can make lots of money by transferring
them to DVD and sell them to other owners and enthusiasts.
By the way - DMC HOUSTON AND JAMES ESPEY, Have you by any chance found the
LIVE THE DREAM commercials/DMC film for potential investors in the Warehouse?
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
NORWAY
VIN # 06759
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 11:11:05 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: LIVE THE DREAM COMMERCIAL ON DVD?
I have someone who can transfer it to DVD.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:45:19 -0500
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: door struts
After new door struts from DMC Houston have been installed, in cool - 50 degree weather, the doors don't swing up with much enthusiasm. Does this mean the torsion bars must be reset? This problem has appeared on a car I'm looking at to purchase. Can someone advise the approximate cost to fix this situation?
This vehicle also has 2 small but noticable dimples in the stainless steel hood, and a few (3) on the sides and front fender top. Since they are downward dimples versus upward dimples, without disassembling the body panels, can they be fixed by anyone in the Detroit to Columbus / Cincinnati area?
Marv.
was # 4239 - now looking around for another
Marvin Stein
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
web: printeddrinkware.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 10:59:03 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
Everyone on the DML has given you good advice. I will add that you will
probably want to use an impact wrench driven by an air compressor to operate
the spring compressors. For the rear I used one that Pep Boys loaned me.
The directions specifically said to use an impact wrench. Otherwise you
will be there all day twisting your arm off. Don't expect to be successful
on your first try. I had to loosen and reposition a few times before I
found a configuration that worked. The front springs were extremely
difficult to compress. I used an internal compressor from NAPA, and it
didn't fit very well. I ended up compressing the spring to the lower
control arm and removing it with the lower control arm. The problem with
all of these springs is that you have to grab them as close to the ends as
possible. If you only grab from near the middle, then as you compress it,
the rest will simply expand to make up for it. The NAPA compressor's
instructions said not to use an impact wrench, but I used one anyway. I
damaged two of them in the process, but the parts counter guy said to return
them regardless since they should be made better. What happened was the
threads galled and started stripping out. I suppose that if I greased them
up first then they wouldn't have galled so bad. Still, I wouldn't attempt
the job again with another NAPA internal compressor. The threads are not
has hard as they should be.
I highly recommend replacing the shocks while you are in there. I have the
PJ Grady nitrogen ones and love them. There are issues getting the
NAPA/Monroe ones to fit, but this is covered thoroughly in the archives.
Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
I say you are fine just replacing the front springs. There is nothing wrong
with the rear springs unless you want a lowered look. And you can still
lower the rear using the OEM springs. There are two methods that don't
involve cutting. Read about it in the archives.
With my PJ Grady springs, the gap at the top of the wheel is the same as the
sides. The car looks much better with the nose lowered where it was
designed to be. It makes steering easier since the steering rack is now
pushing more straight and doesn't have to reach down as far. It's a
leverage thing.
The factory nuts & bolts on the suspension are fine (except for the trailing
arm bolts.) I wouldn't go replacing anything just because you think
something new would be better. Not all hardened bolts are as hard as they
claim. If you go replacing, find bolts with a pedigree. If you put Monroe
shocks on the front, you will need to use a thinner bolt on the eyelet.
Read about it in the archives.
Let us know how it turns out.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:15:04 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heated Door Struts?
Definitely not all door struts are created equal. The ones a previous owner
put on my car are charged very well, but they have no dampening whatsoever.
If I let go of the door, it bounces at the top of travel. This can be very
damaging. I've checked out plenty of other DeLoreans with better struts,
and some of them do a nice job of slowing the door down toward the end
before it bounces open. Don't get your new struts from just anyone. Be
sure you get yours from a vendor who sells the dampening variety.
I would love to see someone make a custom user-serviceable strut like the
shocks that PJ Grady sells. I hear that the door strut on the DeLorean has
a higher pressure in it than any other strut like it. And of course, the
higher the pressure gradient, the faster it will seek equilibrium (leak
out). I want to see one made with a Schrader valve just like the PJ Grady
shocks so that we can replace the nitrogen charge as it leaks out. Old
'wore out' struts usually aren't worn out; the gas charge just leaks out.
I would make these myself if I had the time. But for now I have too many
convex mirrors waiting to cut out for other cars, and I can't do that until
I get my brakes finished. So what am I doing typing now? Bye! :)
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 11:19:16 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Southeast Texas DeLorean Event (and warehouse sneak preview)
The yet-to-be officially named DeLorean owners club in the Houston/Southeast
Texas area has an event coming up this weekend for those that may be
interested...
Details can be found at:
A sneak preview of the new DeLorean Motor Company facility in Houston will
follow the event and will only be available to those who attend this event.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:25:42 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Lowered springs - just the front?
In a message dated 12/4/01 6:02:24 AM Central Standard Time, jwit6@xxxxxx
writes:
> I lowered just the front of mine with the springs Rob at PJ Grady offers.
> > use is the two piece type that
> fits on the outsides of the springs. You'll need to position them at about
> the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. There is just not enough room to use the
> internal type.
> Jim
>
Jim,
I need to disagree with you on this one. After having replaced 30 or so
sets of springs on Deloreans, many with Gradys 1 1/2" lower fronts, I have
found an internal front spring compressor that works better then any external
I've ever tried. The way the frame on the D wraps around the front spring, it
makes getting an external compressor on for an even compression very
difficult. This internal compressor slides right up inside the spring in
place of the shock and turns an all day project into a few hours worth of
work. Plus it's much safer, and you must be very careful when working with
compressed springs. They store enormous amounts of energy in a compressed
state and can be very dangerous if not handled safely.
Matter of fact, whenever someone gets a shock kit from me and I find out
they are planning on changing the front springs at the same time, I ship this
internal spring compressor along with the shocks for them to use and just ask
that they return it when finished. This compressor has been all over the
world over the last few years, and probably has more "miles" on it then most
D's.
And while we're talking about spring compressors, a spring compressor is
NOT required for removal and replacement of the rear springs. The rear
springs are easily done using some jack stands and a floor jack. The rear
springs are about a 15 minute project per side.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 18:38:01 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: THINK - Ideas for a "new" DeLorean?
If the DeLorean were to be re-produced (same styling), then it would be possible to offer a "cheaper" DeLorean without the expensive stainless steel panels. Someone at some time suggested fibreglass panels (painted) as one possibility in order to make variations of the car but based on the same platform.
But now, there are another material that could be of interest - its called Thermoplastic here in Norway.
Its being used in the production of the Norwegian(!) Electricity Car - THINK!
Although the styling is not of a sports car, the car has actually been designed by LOTUS in England!
Go to: www.think.no for more info!
THINK is now owned by Ford Motor Company, and I believe they have started to sell THINKs in California already.
The advantage of thermoplastic is that it is a solid, strong, re-usable and environmental friendly material. Also, it can take a beating. I remember a commercial for THINK where they hit the front fender with a hammer! No damage! Believe it or not!
So - let this be a suggestion to DMC Houston (they do have all the spare parts and are the only ones that have the opportunity to make a new DeLorean if there is a market for it). I think that as time goes by, more people would want a "new" model 2001 based on the 1981 DeLorean. DMC Houston has the mold for the glassfibre underbody, and panels made out of thermoplastic would be cheap to produce. Hey, maybe you could use the glassfibre underbody mold to make an underbody of another composite material ( Kevlar/carbonfibre comes to mind). This would all make the car very light-weight, which in turn would make the car faster, even with the standard PRV-V6.
My suggestion are open and free for anyone to use :-)
Opinions please! E-mail me privately :-)
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 13:15:32 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Meeting a fellow D Driver.
i have been waiting for something like that to happen to me.
you know, i have never seen a delorean 'in the wild'... save mine of course.
never... not once.....
in fact i've only seen two ever... mine and another that i considered
buying.
that happened in my father's nissan 300zx... another cult car... (though not
quite as 'cult' as... well .... us), but it's neat.
i just know that if i saw another delorean on the road we'd both pull over
just to talk. very exclusive club, i'm glad to be a part of.
with my luck i'll see another delorean when i'm driving my probe though...
and you know this guy is never going to believe i also have a delorean.
-james l.
_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 18:32:10 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Where does it go????
Question.....
Standing at the rear of the car looking into the engine bay.... Left pontoon 12" forward of the Three pipes going into the carbon canister, there is a small, what I think is, a vacumne pipe, exiting the pontoon. The previous owner has blocked this pipe off with a screw, When I take out the screw where does it connect to????
Cheers
Paul
#6463
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 14:51:32 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: K-mart Battery
Check out the Champion 78-84. 770 Cold CCA Amps, 84 month warr. 24
months roadside service, 36 months direct exchange, bal of 84 months
pro-rated.
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 12:06:20 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Instrument Cluster Lens
I have seen the condition you are describing on several occasions.
Unfortunately the "smoke" distortion is inside the Plexiglas and cannot be
removed. There have been no instrument cluster lenses available for some
time, the only solution is to purchase an entire instrument cluster from DMC
Houston. Order part #100548 $312.50
Seasons Greetings
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 3:58 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Instrument Cluster Lens
> If it isn't TOO bad you might be able to salvage it. Remove the lense
> and polish it with toothpaste. Use soft cloths and turn over
> frequently. Don't concentrate on any area. Try to do it by hand. If
> you are experienced with a buffer you could try that but it is very
> easy to burn the plastic. Eastwood also has products for taking out
> scratches in plastic.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Nigel C Beatson <nbeatson1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hi Everyone.
> >
> > I need to replace the instrument cluster lens (part no. 105848) on
> my D
> > as the previous owner tried to clean it with some sort of solvent
> that
> > has given it a smoked effect that makes it virtually impossible to
> read
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 13:22:58 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: louvre paint
The rear louver is made of Fiberglas with a semi flat black finish. The
louver, side vents and license plate fascia can be returned to factory new
look with the application of Krylon semi-flat black spray paint. Best
results will be achieved by following the product instructions.
Concerning your cold start problem the time-temperature test that you
described is correct.
Seasons Greetings
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
----- Original Message -----
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 11:22 PM
Subject: [DML] louvre paint
> i bought a delorean about a month ago, had some intial repairs/restoration
> done and it's now on the road with only some weather seal problem, (parts
> are on the way for that), cold start problems (not a huge concern of mine,
> won't drive much in the winter... but will be fix right after the seals),
> and some superficial stuff.
> so...
> couple of questions.
> what are the louvres made of? and how were they originally
painted/color...
> mine are very dull and scratched a bit. same with the non-fuctional
'vents'
> behind the door and the intake vents..
> any recommendation on how to repaint/resurface these?
>
> also could someone help with the cold start diagnostic. i read it on
> dmcnews... but... just be sure i'm right here... should i just connect the
> blue-black wire to the blue-white wire on the harness that plugs into the
> thermo-time switch.. and that should make the cold-start valve functional
> regardless of the temp. correct?
>
> thanks!
> james lalonde '81 vin001697
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 13:11:29 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: weather seals, AND DOOR ALIGNMENT HELP
nathan,
i would try... and know it is a lot of boring work for such small reward
but... remove your weather seals and see if the doors shuts then.
the colder weather would stiffen up the seals and cause them to push the
door out of alignment... that's what is was with mine anyway.
my car has no seals on it until i get some adhesive but it's almost
winter... which means she's garages and being constantly worked on soon...
so i'm not concerned right now.
tip for you and everyone. try using silicate caulk around the door jam
itself, NOT on the seals but just below the inner seal... help mine from
leaking at all... even with NO outer seal. the headliner acted as a wick and
just sucked in water. but now it's fine.
hope i could help,
james lalonde
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 23:58:41 -0000
From: "James" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Investors Film
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, delorean <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
(SNIP)
> By the way - DMC HOUSTON AND JAMES ESPEY, Have you by
any chance found the
> LIVE THE DREAM commercials/DMC film for potential
investors in the Warehouse?
>
We have one of the original investors films here in Houston, a
year or so ago I had it transferred to DV...nothing on the
commercials, however.
James
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 19:05:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Josh Weader <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: No wipers when it's cold?
OK, this is a new one for me. I've had my car for a little over a year,
and until this week the wipers have worked fine. It's been cool, but not
cold (temps in the 30's) in the morning here in Boston for the last couple
of nights. When I first start the car in the morning and all the systems
are cold, my wipers don't work. After about 10 minutes, when the car has
heated up and the interior has heated up, they start working again.
Has anyone else had a problem like this? My door struts, like everyone
else's, have problems with the cold, but sympathy from the windshield
wipers?
--Josh
#5553
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 15:48:08 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Champion Battery
Price is $59.95 exch. or add $5 core charge.
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