To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Texas (now Illinois) Monster Truck
From: "delorean502" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: door strut questions (up or down?)
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
3. Relay Box Question
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
From: "delorean502" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Inertia Switch
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. caution and warning labels
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: door strut questions (up or down?)
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Facia's Glossy/Matte
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Accessories won't turn off.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Rear anti-sway bars
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: The Anti-Delorean?
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
13. DMC Houston, PJ Grady
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Facia's Glossy/Matte
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Inertia Switch
From: "Max Glover" <glovermr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Connecticut DeLorean Sighting
From: Joshieloo@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Relay Box Question
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. New radio bracket
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Poster of the Year
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Different tail light colors...
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
22. Re:Stick shift plate
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
23. Re: shifting into reverse WAS: Revsese
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
24. Re: Rear anti-sway bars
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 13:42:39 -0000
From: "delorean502" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Texas (now Illinois) Monster Truck
Hi,
My Dad is the one who picked that "car" up. He said it was quite a
site. Many strange looks as he was driving from Austin,TX to
Illinois. Can you believe that a Jeep Cherokee pulled that beast all
that way? My dad said that it looked like the Delorean was trying to
run him over the whole way. It towered over our "little" Jeep.
(insert marketing ploy) - Just goes to show that we will haul any
type of Delorean, even it if looks like its going to eat us
I hope everyone has a great new year! Memphis is only 6 months
away!!!!
Erik Geerdink
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> The infamous "Texas Monster Truck DMC" has made its way to Illinois
> where Rich Weissensel has taken on its restoration as his latest
> project. Here in Illinois it may actually be useful in the snow!
>
> Looks like a big job - it's in pretty rough shape.
>
> See at: http://www.dmcnews.com/mydmc.html
>
> Dave Swingle (for Rich)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 14:07:45 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door strut questions (up or down?)
--- In dmcnews, Walter Coe wrote:
> What is the proper orientation of the door struts?
> Does the rod belong on the top or the bottom or
>does it matter?
[snip]
> Does anyone have an official answer?
I don't have an "official" answer, but I do have an answer;
the CYLINDER has to be at the door and the ROD at the
body; pointing downwards.
When mounted this way the oil inside the cylinders lubricates the
O-rings at that end. If these dry out you are more likely to loose
charge on them...
Also, if you have the dampened version of these struts there's a
valve that "switches" to a smaller hole to push the oil through.
With the strut upside-down (rod pointing up) the oil doesn't go
through this valve in the right way and you have less to no
dampening.
If you look at tailgates for other cars (like my Escort Hatchback)
you will see that in the open (expanded) position, the rod is at the
bottom.
With this in mind it just ocurred to me that when you store your
car it would be a good idea to leave the doors, trunk and louvre
up so the oil is on the O-rings, or at least open and close
everything a couple of times (for instance when you let the car
run every couple of weeks to keep the engine and AC lubricated.)
But this is only me thinking out loud...
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 14:37:36 -0000
From: "dsscid" <shain@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Relay Box Question
Hello,
Yesterday i decided to try and figure out why my courtsey lights
weren't working so i opened up the relay box and did some
investigation. I noticed that i had a burned ground wire on the
car, so after some tracing down i noticed that the way dmc had it
setup was to have one ground wire used to drive several relays
(headlights, cooling fans, vent motors). The wires were fused
together (got way too hot). So i had to remove all the wires and
replace them with a much heavier gauge wire that i grounded to a
central post. My 3rd speed on my vent fan now works great, and i
have no flickering on my headlights. But my real question is i have
a relay socket on wires in the upper right hand corner that i can
just move around as i wish. What is this for? I believe the drawing
has it as an accessory relay? I suggest that whoever hasn't checked
there ground look at it. I couldn't believe hwo they had it hooked
up in the first place.
- Shain
#10140
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 15:29:19 -0000
From: "delorean502" <delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: (DML) Different tail light colors... and brake pads.
I would suggest going to your favorite DMC parts Supplier. The brake
pads that you will find at Autozone or any other chain store are not
made of the material that work best with our cars. The new pads have
metal in the pads which will wear down the rotors faster and will
cause your car so squeak when you are stopping. The pads you will
get from your DMC parts supplier will be the correct pads, not only
will they fit perfectly, but they are made out of the correct
material.
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> D-59 comes to mind for the fronts. Autozone is terrible when asked
to help with a cross reff part.
>
>
> >
> >I need brake pads. Does anyone know of some pads that are readily
> >available from napa or autozone or other common parts stores? I
spent a long
> >time yesterday crossreferencing parts to no avail. I was told by
an autozone
> >employee that RepcoParts went out of business, I also tried KEM,
Girling,
> >BAP/GEON, and those MINTEX pads that were posted to the board a
while back.
> >None of the parts numbers were in there.
> >
> >Adam 16683
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
> >
> >
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> >moderator@xxxx
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 16:56:08 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Inertia Switch
I was driving my D the otherday and putting into the garage, my foot
slipped off the brake pedal (automatic) and kicked the inertia switch
and the engine died. I looked at the switch and pusted the plunger
back down but not the fuel pump does not appear to be comming on as
the car will turn over but not start.
Is it possible that by kicking the switch I have knackered it? and
can I take it a part and service it. Also is there anyway of
disconnecting the switch so I can start the engine and get it home to
investigate the problem as my garage is a few miles from my house and
quite dark!!
Thanks in advance
James RG
P.S. Is Aaron Posey on the list? Aaron are you going to the Memphis
show?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 12:35:59 -0500
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: caution and warning labels
In response to stickers not sticking …
I just got a set of the Stainless decals .. and have been slowly
replacing my stickers …
I have found that a product call GOO GONE works fantastic at getting old
stickers off
As for prepping the surface for the new ones .. WINDEX!!
Works like a charm!
Hope it helps!
Kenneth
005548
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 14:56:32 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door strut questions (up or down?)
Hi Walt,
The last time we had a DeLorean get together in New Jersey Rob pointed out
to me that I had my rods pointing up which was wrong. We changed them on the
spot. Hope that helps.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 11:24 PM
Subject: [DML] door strut questions (up or down?)
> We just had a cool New Years Day DeLorean party at my place. Three (and
one
> half) DeLoreans were there. (woo-hoo!)
>
> Questions:
> What is the proper orientation of the door struts? Does the rod belong on
> the top or the bottom or does it matter?
>
> I looked at photos of Rob Grady's green DeLorean, and his has the rods
> pointing down. I suppose that if anyone knows then he would.
>
> My car has the rods pointing down too and are leaking oil. They have been
> leaking ever since I had the car (almost 2 years). I assume that if my
rods
> were pointing up, then the oil would stay in the bottom and not leak out.
> But then instead of leaking oil, I suppose they would loose their charge
> faster. Oil is thicker than the nitrogen charge, so if it is a choice
> between leaking one or the other then it would be better to leak the thick
> oil because it would drain a lot slower than the thin nitrogen.
>
> My struts are also probably over-charged. We took one off today to see
how
> far the door would open without the strut. It didn't. Instead it rested
on
> the latches. Since I hear that there should be about 4" gap between the
> bottom of the door and the door sill, then at least this tells me that my
> torsion bar isn't over-torqued. But with the strut in place, I have to
hold
> on to the door or else goes up with such force that it will bounce at the
> top of travel. I have already determined that I have 'cheap' struts that
do
> not slow down at the end of travel. Better struts have a dampening
> mechanism to stop this. Mine are Lift-o-mat brand. By the way, the weath
er
> was cold -- definitely worthy of wearing a coat. In hot Florida weather
the
> door has a greater tendancy to pop open.
>
> The other two guys (Jim Sleeth & Randy Stribling)'s DeLoreans had their
> struts mounted 'upside down' compared to mine such that the rods were
> pointing up. Jim said that his struts are fairly new, but are not as
strong
> as they were when he first put them on. My theory is that his struts lost
> some of their charge due to leaking nitrogen instead of oil.
>
> Does anyone have an official answer?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 15:05:37 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Facia's Glossy/Matte
[Moderator's note: Early cars, I don't have the VIN number cutoff in front of me, had a clear coat finish that gave the facias a high degree of shine. For whatever reason later cars had the finish minus the clear coat. I belive the paint formula was the same for both.]
The original paint formula will give you the "matt" finish. A lot of
DeLorean owners are adding a second clear gloss coat over the original
formula. Its a owner preference. Here is a link to my painting experience
including where to find a PPG paint distributer.
http://personal.picusnet.com/dsontos/painting.html
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Watkins Family" <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "DMC News list" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 7:26 PM
Subject: [DML] Facia's Glossy/Matte
> Is there a distinct difference in the Glossy facia and the Matte? I'm
> thinking of a new front facia. Mine is warped and needs repainting. At
> approx $650.00 a new one may be better. The only one's for the front
> appear to be matte.
>
> Tom
> #005732
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 21:26:02 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Accessories won't turn off.
Long story short, I turned off the engine when I pulled into the
parking lot at work. I even removed the key, but the accessories
refused to turn off! I restarted the engine, and shut it off again,
but no change. I rapped on the ignition swtich, and nothing happened.
I turned the mode switch "off", and yet the blower motor was still
spinning! Then suddenly, everything shut off.
I went out about an hour or so later, and now everything is
functioning normally. Any ideas?
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 22:17:15 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Air/Fuel Mixture control unit
Hi Mike,
Don't forget to install the rubber O-Ring that goes between the fuel
distributor and the mixture control unit. I was told by several
people that this wouldn't make a difference, and wasn't needed - but
I forgot to replace mine one time...and had EXACTLY the same result
you are having. My guess is that it raises the plunger pin just high
enough from a rest position to make a difference. But hey, this is
my guess: All I know is that my car wouldn't work without it!
Good Luck
Eric
Dunedin, FL
deloreanfl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Senatorpack@xxxx wrote:
>
>
> Hello DML,
>
> I'm helping out a new owner tune up his car and replace the
fuel
> injection system. We have reset the car back to factory settings.
However we
> have encountered a small adjustment issue.
>
> Installed new fuel distributor and control pressure regulator,
etc., etc.,
> on new owners car. What is proper way to adjust air/fuel ratio?
>
> Engine starts, however only runs when fuel distributor is free
(loose)
> from mixture control unit. (Fuel lines attached)
>
> i.e. Engine will stall when three screws to attach fuel distributor
to
> mixture control unit is secure. Engine will run when screws
removed, however
> idle is rough.
>
> Seems as though the plunger on the bottom of the fuel
distributor is out
> of sequence with the air plenum arm beneath the air box.
>
> This is the first time that I have seen the air plenum and fuel
distr.
> plunger is out of alignment.
>
> Thanks
> Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 07:23:33 +0800
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Rear anti-sway bars
Hi DMLers,
After seeing Walter's 'heads-up' on the anti-sway bars I got one from Addco
for my rhd car refurbishment project. It has arrived at my mechanics place
in CA. He says it looks good but he can't tell from the poor instructions
how it is mounted! Has anyone on the list experience in fitting one. Can you
offer some pointers as to how to proceed? Does he have to remove the rear
carrier assembly?
Thanks, IAN
*****************
----- Original Message -----
From: Walter <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 4:57 AM
Subject: [DML] Rear anti-sway bars for sale
> In the process of having new front bars made, I discovered that the
company
> still has some add-on rear sway bars in stock. Go to the following link:
> http://www.addco.net and do a search under DeLorean. There they will have
> the rear sway bar listed. They cost under $200 and have the option of
> either rubber or urethane bushings. I got urethane. I let y'all know how
> it fits.
>
> Yep, that was cool.
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 17:38:40 -0600
From: Farrar Hudkins <fhudkins@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Anti-Delorean?
Hello gang!
Just reading my "holiday e-mail" and found the anti-D thing referred to
in digest #847. This article, or something similar to it, is online at
the following location:
(Yes, that's all one URL.)
I hope everybody had a pleasant holiday season. I'll be going home to
Charlotte next month for my birthday. Maybe I'll see a DeLorean while
I'm up there? :\
Regards,
Farrar Hudkins
(still trying to ditch his 98 Ranger for a DeLorean ... *sigh*)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 16:49:09 -0500
From: "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Houston, PJ Grady
[Moderators note: I'm not going to let this grow into another round of vendor bashing so be warned, I'll be looking over the responses rather carefully]
i have some concerns and opinions on these companies and would like to hear
the groups thoughts/versions of thier experiences with each.
i bought my delorean last oct, and had to have quite a few repairs done...
i ordered some weather seals, clutch parts, some books, a sunstar model, and
just recently a radiator and reproduction side stripes and a defogger
switch.
i ordered the books and model from dmc houston at around the same time i
ordered the clutch but in a seperate order. the clutch was to be shipped
next day and the books and model a slower shipping option. DMC houston was
unable to get the clutch to me the next day and refused to work with any
shipping options. i ordered it from PJ grady who shipped it gladly and
promptly... it was here the next day. DMC houston, simply never sent my
model and books until i called them about it 3 times... they again refused
to pay for shipping themselves or perhaps ship at a faster rate at thier
expense. I spoke to Ms. Lisa Stone, who was very rude, and whose only
response to everything was 'you're gonna have to talk my supervisor' i
believe his name was walter.... however walter was never there.
I eventually did speak with this walter and simply canceled my $1500 clutch
order (and went with grady) and had to settle for him shipping... still at
my expense... the model and books.
more recently around december 1st i placed an order to grady for the
stainless lettering for the rear bumper and some replacement screws... i had
them shipped ups ground and they came accordingly... actually faster than i
had expected.
the same day i ordered the reproduction side stripes (not the new ital
design ones) and a defogger switch from DMC houston. i emailed them just
last night, having not received them, and again Ms. Lisa stone responded
with this;
"Dear Mr. James LaLonde,
In reviewing your past order for parts number 101638 and a2000010 I am sorry
to inform that neither are available at this time. If you would like, we
could contact you when the parts do become available. I also apologize for
the delay in response for this order.
Regards,
Lisa Stone"
for both of the orders that DMC houston messed up on i receieved order
confirmations... and nothing else until i contacted them.
PJ grady on the other hand called me about my stainless letters, stating
that they had no 3m adhesive remover, for my weather seals, in stock (which
i had ordered with the lettereing) and asked me if i wanted the rest of the
order shipped or wait on the remover, and even let me know i could simply go
buy it from meijers and forget about getting it through them. Both people i
spoke with at pj grady.. a middle-aged male and a middle-aged to older
female were very knoweldgable and helpful... unlike Ms Stone.
How do you feel about this? does this all sound characteristic of each
company? If i'm not mistaken there is a representative from dmc houston who
reads the list and sometimes posts... can you comment on my very poor
treatment from dmc houston and perhaps comment on why your company let a
$1500 sale go, then another $200 sale, and lost a customer permenantly?
Needless to say, all of my future Delorean purchases will come from PJ
Grady... regardless of if i could save a few bucks through DMC.
thanks!!
James LaLonde
vin01967
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 23:39:31 -0000
From: "theshovel1224" <theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Facia's Glossy/Matte
According to the concours judging manual at
http://www.usadmc.com/files/handbook.pdf
The last that left the factory with a glossy finish on the facias was
3599. 3600 on up had a matte finish.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxx> wrote:
> [Moderator's note: Early cars, I don't have the VIN number cutoff
in front of me, had a clear coat finish that gave the facias a high
degree of shine. For whatever reason later cars had the finish minus
the clear coat. I belive the paint formula was the same for both.]
>
>
>
> The original paint formula will give you the "matt" finish. A lot of
> DeLorean owners are adding a second clear gloss coat over the
original
> formula. Its a owner preference. Here is a link to my painting
experience
> including where to find a PPG paint distributer.
> http://personal.picusnet.com/dsontos/painting.html
>
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Watkins Family" <watbmv@xxxx>
> To: "DMC News list" <dmcnews@xxxx>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 7:26 PM
> Subject: [DML] Facia's Glossy/Matte
>
>
> > Is there a distinct difference in the Glossy facia and the Matte?
I'm
> > thinking of a new front facia. Mine is warped and needs
repainting. At
> > approx $650.00 a new one may be better. The only one's for the
front
> > appear to be matte.
> >
> > Tom
> > #005732
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> > moderator@xxxx
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http:/
/docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 18:52:26 -0800
From: "Max Glover" <glovermr@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Inertia Switch
James,
Make sure the small wiring harness on the bottom of the switch is connected
securely. I hit the switch while rearranging my floor mat once and spent
the next hour in absolute bewilderment as to why my car refused to start.
Turned out the harness looked connected but wasn't completely. That's my
guess.
Max Glover
#5284
http://www.geocities.com/mrwillis5050/
http://www.pearce-design.com/maxglover/dmc.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: jamesrguk <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 8:56 AM
Subject: [DML] Inertia Switch
> I was driving my D the otherday and putting into the garage, my foot
> slipped off the brake pedal (automatic) and kicked the inertia switch
> and the engine died. I looked at the switch and pusted the plunger
> back down but not the fuel pump does not appear to be comming on as
> the car will turn over but not start.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:01:31 EST
From: Joshieloo@xxxxxxx
Subject: Connecticut DeLorean Sighting
Dear List:
It's been a long, long time since I last saw a DeLorean "in the wild."
The last time I spotted a D, while driving, was in Stratford, CT about six
months earlier. I was driving my D, so it was cool seeing another one at
random.
This sighting was on Tuesday, January 1, 2002. I was driving home from
New York City. It was around 12:05 in the afternoon. As I was fiddling with
the radio and adjusting the heat, I found myself compelled to look up at the
road and focus on the oncoming traffic on the Merritt Parkway (go figure!).
To my surprize, I realized I was fixating on...a DeLorean!? Whoah...and there
it went. I glanced back and watched the ass-end round the next turn.
So, as the question has been stated in some form or another:
If you...were driving your DeLorean...on January 2, 2002 at
12:05 in
the afternoon and traveling South bound on the Merritt
Parkway...between exits 31 and 30...I saw you.
If your on the list, please let me know.
Thanks,
Joshua Schwartz
001292
Trumbull, CT
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:17:37 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Relay Box Question
Shain - By your description of this "free floating relay" (if it's a
relay and not just the socket) in the upper right hand corner of the
relay compartment (towards the rear of the car as you're looking into
the relay compartment), it's probably the RPM relay. I think that it
has six wires in a bundle connected into it. This is part of the
control circuit for the fuel pump. My relay went bad last year, and
the frequency valve lost power. The replacement was bright green in
color (original was royal blue if memory serves). As you pointed out,
some of the wiring design was a little abnormal relative to what we
consider "good practices" now. Part of the charm of the car (right?).
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dsscid" <shain@xxxx> wrote:
But my real question is i have
> a relay socket on wires in the upper right hand corner that i can
> just move around as i wish. What is this for? I believe the
drawing
> has it as an accessory relay? I suggest that whoever hasn't checked
> there ground look at it. I couldn't believe hwo they had it hooked
> up in the first place.
>
> - Shain
> #10140
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:31:49 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New radio bracket
I recieved a new radio bracket from DMC houston as my X-mas gift from my
wife.
I have a question: WHen i looked at my original radio mount (the one I do
not have to cut) it has a black plastic "covering" that faces out into the
cabin. The new mount I got is all metal, and I assume it goes UNDER this
black plastic.
My question? Won't I still have to now cut the black plastic for my CD
player din sized radio to mount? If so, what was the purpose of getting the
mounting kit?
Kevin Abato
Vin #16680
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2002 16:32:29 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Poster of the Year
Just one more comment on last year, if there's an award for Poster of
the Year, I'd like to nominate David Teitelbaum.
He responds to nearly every question asked, in tireless detail. He can
be counted upon, whether off the list or on, to give you the best answer
he is capable of. He is candid, he has a lot to offer, and always with
equanimity.
Les Huckins
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:36:39 -0000
From: "dmcnorway" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady
I have ordered parts from DMC Houston and PJ Grady.
Both have provided excellent service and communication.
I know Houston have had some delaying (I ordered the on/off switch
some time ago) but the reason is that they haven't got them yet is
because of delay at the US Customs.
Also, remember that DMC Houston is the main source of parts for all
other suppliers. They are really our "factory support" now. At least
that's the way I see it. Imagine if there was no Houston...but
luckily it isnt so. DeLorean owners can take pride in knowing that
the precious parts are in safe hands. People you can trust and who
respect their customers!
Last but not least, DMC Houston are in the process of moving to a new
facility, no wonder a few things can go wrong during this period but
hey, is this really a problem? I don't think so. DMC Houston was
first of all with the opportunity to shop DeLorean parts from the
web, they have a huge task now getting "their" warehouse ready. Would
the solution be to close shop during this stressfull situation? No, I
dont think so. Give them some time and things will straighten out Im
sure.
I've personally met James Espey and Stephen Wynne and they are the
greatest!!! Still havent met Warren but I know from the service I
have been receiving that he also is a great person!
Lets not kill each other over some delay and frustration. DMC Houston
will be "back on track" very soon!
Best wishes for the new year to all DML'ers and vendors,
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759 (w parts from EVERY DeLorean vendor!)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:38:18 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Different tail light colors...
In a message dated 1/1/02 5:45:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I'm just wondering if they switched to a different color some time during
> production, or maybe they just turn yellow from sunfading?
>
>
Sunfading.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:38:20 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Stick shift plate
In a message dated 1/1/02 6:16:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I was playing with some tempered fiber board, my table saw, and new router
> to make a shift plate for my 5 speed. I've got a couple of templates done
> (though the slender fingers tend to break off on the TFB). I want to
> eventually get one made of stainless.
>
One of the Dutch (or German?) DeLoreans at Eurofest last May had a s.s.
shifter plate with the grooves cut into the plate for the various positions.
I was very interested to see this since it was something I'd wanted to do. I
noticed that the fingers, as you say, are very thin, which I don't think is
terribly good looking. Worse, they are potentially breakable. Worse yet,
they scrape at the shift lever, which I REALLY didn't like. I gave up that
idea.
Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech Group
vin 11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 19:38:21 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: shifting into reverse WAS: Revsese
In a message dated 12/30/01 7:21:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, gmfm1@xxxxxxx
writes:
> On all of the 5 speed manuals that I have seen, when you shift
> into reverse, you have to lift the shifter up and pull it the last
>
I had a heck of a time shifting into reverse until I realized I needed to 1)
move the shifter left as far as it would go, 2) THEN lift, 3) move the last
bit to the left then pull back into position. Lifting it while starting from
the neutral position just doesn't seem to cut it. I think Gary is saying the
same thing. One driver told me, (before I figured this out,) that he used
both hands to lift it while shifting. Not necessary if you go left as far as
you can before lifting! :)
Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:46:34 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear anti-sway bars
Ian - I installed a rear sway bar on my car years ago. The
instructions have (hopefully) been updated, because they didn't make
any sense when I looked at them. In the final analysis, we drilled
holes into the lower web of the rear carriage frame, and installed
the "saddle bushings" there. The bar attaches through the saddle
bushings, and arches forward above the drive axles. The original kit
had two angle brackets that were supposed to be attached to the
trailing arm at the thickened area near the top of the arm, and just
forward of the hub carrier. The bushed links are then supposed to go
from the angles down to the spade ends on the bar. The angular
relationships between the bar ends and the angle brackets were not
good on my installation (I have an early prototype bar), and the
little link bushings were loaded at too much of an angle. I
ultimately changed the end attachments to spherical rod ends with
teflon linings. I will try to locate a digital camera and take some
pictures of my installation. I found out that the lower web of the
rear carriage is not quite strong enough out in the middle area. I
have developed a crack in the frame web due to high cyclic loads, and
one incident when I bottomed out in an intersection, and hit the
saddle bushing housings on the pavement (ouch!). You may want to
install the saddle bushings closer to either the forward or aft edges
to get more stiffness. No suspension parts required removal. Does
any of this make sense to you? Let me know - you can email me
privately if you wish.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "ian" <ian@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi DMLers,
>
> After seeing Walter's 'heads-up' on the anti-sway bars I got one
from Addco for my rhd car refurbishment project. It has arrived at my
mechanics place in CA. He says it looks good but he can't tell from
the poor instructions how it is mounted! Has anyone on the list
experience in fitting one. Can you offer some pointers as to how to
proceed? Does he have to remove the rear carrier assembly?
>
> Thanks, IAN
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 00:48:02 -0000
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Houston, PJ Grady
I have been dealing with the Delorean vendors for only 2 years but I
would say overall the experience has been great. I can typically get
free service advice and help in solving most problems along with
being able to get most parts in a very timely fashion.
I do on occassion buy some odds & ends locally but sometimes it isnt
worth the effort to cross over numbers and maybe (50/50 chance) get a
good fit.
Im pleased that the marque that I have chosen has such good support
from different vendors.
Im sure that any of the vendors have good days and not so good days,
but in general I believe they provide a good service.
Thanks to
DMC Houston
PJ Grady
Special T (both of them)
DMC Joe
and the DML'rs who invest a lot of time giving advice
Sincerely
Ron & Cheryl Wester
#6322 "BK2-FTR" 2001 Houston Concours Winner
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "James LaLonde" <krfds@xxxx> wrote:
> [Moderators note: I'm not going to let this grow into another round
of vendor bashing so be warned, I'll be looking over the responses
rather carefully]
>
>
> i have some concerns and opinions on these companies and would like
to hear
> the groups thoughts/versions of thier experiences with each.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN