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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Looking for Photos DeLorean Car Show
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Car wont start (continued).
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: RE: youngest delorean owner
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
5. Re: Car wont start (continued).
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. trip odometer reset quirks
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Bleeding clutch fluid
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Happy Birthday!
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Happy Birthday!
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: trip odometer reset quirks
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
14. Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Bleeding clutch fluid
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. USENET Archives..
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: O-ring part number
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
18. torsion bar removal
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: "Michael Quinto" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Fuel pressure at the injectors?
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Happy Birthday!
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
22. Re: Front Suspension Mod's
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Car wont start (continued).
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: trip odometer reset quirks
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
25. Drive train and cooling system problems
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 10:37:10 EST
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Looking for Photos DeLorean Car Show
Does anyone have any DIGITAL photos of the Cincinnati Show. I have a lot of
photos but none are digital and some of the ones on the web site are not good
enough quality.
I also am interested in any digital movies of either the Cincinnati or
Cleveland shows.
If you can help please e-mail me privately.
Ken
DeLoreancarshow.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 15:45:00 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
After seeing my post up on the DML I realized I mispoke (mistyped)
when I said under braking the wheels want to move foward. What I meant
is that the BODY of the car wants to move foward of the wheels which
means the wheels want to move rearward. The sway bar provides a
restraining force to hold the wheel in the correct position. Just
another force to keep in mind that gets trasfered to the crumple
tubes which is probably why they had a recall on it to beef up where
it attaches to spread out the forces.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10751
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 16:06:13 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car wont start (continued).
Hi Adam,
Two things: 1) If the starter won't turn - a thought. Have you been cranking the tits off
the engine trying to get it started and now all you hear is a click from the relay
compartment and this noise from the front? What's your VIN? Early cars (like mine) need a
mod to make sure the starter relay supplies enough current to the starter solenoid,
otherwise on a low battery it will half fire the solenoid - enough to load the battery
down to 10ish volts if it's already low, but not enough to engage the starter. The mod is
on the DMCnews tech page. No I haven't done it to mine yet :-)
2) the root cause: I had starting problems and have also had pump problems. The fuel pump
spins up when you crank the engine and when you let go of the key, it'll carry on
spinning for a second or so. This is normal. Being very noisy ISN'T. It's possible your
pump is unable to generate enough pressure to fire the engine up - I'd check the pickup
hose and filter, and maybe with a full tank try firing it up without the pickup hose
attached (NOT recommended for anything other than a very short time). I suggest this
because I had terrible trouble with my 20-year-old pickup hose and a blocked pickup
filter. The fuel pump makes a terrific racket and the engine (in my case) would have
trouble starting and would refuse to rev at all.
Also, something I noticed - the noise the fuel pump makes is VERY noticable if you stick
your ear behind one of the front wheels. Get someone else to crack the engine and you
have a listen - is that the noise you're hearing, but much louder?
Martin
#1458
Adam Price wrote:
> The engine wont turn over. I measured the voltage across the battery while
> trying to start the car. the voltage drops from 12.5v to 10v, this should be
> adequate to turn the starter. I also swapped relays since a bunch of them
> are the same, and that didnt help either. I dont think its the starter, but
> I'm new with cars. The car gives the shake, and the standard chugachuga
> noise that is usually quickly followed by the engine starting up. THe loud
> whirring noise is also present, sounds like the fuel pump, but much louder
> than normal.
>
> THanks
> Adam
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 12:16:00 -0500
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: RE: youngest delorean owner
I'm searching for a "new DeLorean" or "Concours DeLorean"...whatever that means.
I have driven two DeLoreans everyday since I was in college. After reviewing my total expenditures for the cars, I decided to sell my restored 1981 and search for a "concours car"
I've looked at several as of late, and one of the of the 1981 models was a gift from her Grandfather. The car wasn't stored properly as it has very low miles along with a poor interior, no start problems, etc.
Sincerely,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 09:28:59 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car wont start (continued).
Could you please walk me through how to check for spark? I remember it got
posted a while back, but I dont have that post anymore.
Also, I just went out and tried to start it again, and it almost started,
then it died and now its doing what it did before. Only now the starter is
making a noise similar to, but not as loud or abrasive, as when the ignition
key is held too long after a startup. I am thinking it is the starter.
Where do I measure voltage at the starter? Is it from the positive terminal
on the starter solenoid to chassis ground, or is there an easier to reach
spot?
Thanks, Adam
>From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Car wont start (continued).
>Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 06:23:59 -0000
>
>You must try to narrow down to the system that is malfunctioning. At
>this point it could be either fuel or ignition. The easiest place to
>start is to pull a spark plug wire and see if you are getting spark.
>Just switching or changing parts won't usually do it unless you are
>lucky but you still won't really know what you are doing. When you are
>trying to start do you smell gasoline? Is the fuel tank empty or very
>low? You should hear the fuel pump running at least a little. Check
>and cycle the inertia switch. Measure the voltage at the fuel pump.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> >
> > The engine wont turn over. I measured the voltage across the battery
>while
> > trying to start the car. the voltage drops from 12.5v to 10v, this
>should be
> > adequate to turn the starter. I also swapped relays since a bunch of
>them
> > are the same, and that didnt help either. I dont think its the
>starter, but
> > I'm new with cars. The car gives the shake, and the standard
>chugachuga
> > noise that is usually quickly followed by the engine starting up.
>THe loud
> > whirring noise is also present, sounds like the fuel pump, but much
>louder
> > than normal.
> >
> > THanks
> > Adam
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 12:38:25 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: trip odometer reset quirks
When I reset the odometer on my DeLorean, it usually takes two pushes of the
button to get all the numbers back to zero. Is this normal? All the other
types of cars that I've dealt with always reset on the first try.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 18:25:40
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bleeding clutch fluid
If you can obtain a good length of oxygen tubing, the end will fit quite
nicely over all the hydraulic system's bleeder fittings. This allows a
"one-man" bleed job to be performed. Bleed well! Drive Stainless
Robert VIN 6924
From: "Joe Thome" <joethome@xxxxxxx>
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] Bleeding clutch fluid
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 19:29:09 -0800
Dear list members,
I'm getting ready to refill and bleed my hydraulic clutch fluid. I'm doing
this because my clutch was not relasing and I found my fluid reservoir empty
but no signs on the garage floor of leakage. As I understand the procedure,
I am to attach a hose to the fitting on the slave cylinder on top of the
transmission bell housing. If this is correct, does anyone know the inside
diameter of the hose to use for this bleeding operation? If this is not the
correct procedure, would someone please tell me what the correct procedure
is? If this is the correct procedure, can I do this procedure by myself by
simply putting the end of the bleeder hose in a container with DOT #4 fluid
and pumping the clutch pedal myself after filling the reservoir inside the
front storage compartment near the gas filler pipe?
I thank whoever responds for your help.
Joe Thome
VIN 6467 as of 2/12/01
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:35:40 -0500
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
> I don't think a redesign is what's
> needed here, all we need is a good source for replacement parts. This
> is not a case of a badly designed part although I am sure someone
> will redesign it anyway.
David T.,
You are a far more knowledgeable mechanic than I am, but in this case I'm
disagreeing with you. At the SEDOC event last September, we had a slide
show. Included were photos of Tom Long's lower control arm that failed
under normal use. This was a stress fracture that grew over time. It was a
miracle that the piece broke while the car was parked overnight and not
being driven. Steve Wynne of DMC Houston also commented that the handling
of any DeLorean can be improved by welding a plate onto the bottom of the
lower control arm to give it more stability. One of the points made during
the slide presentation was to periodically inspect the ends of the lower
control arms for stress fractures. In my opinion, it is a good thing that
the supply of these parts has run out because it forces us to design safer
replacements.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 13:27:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Happy Birthday!
***** Moderator's Note *****
Please reply directly to Christian. JZD's address will NOT be
posted to the list unless JZD sends the note...
*****
I don't think anyone has his address. If someone has found it, please let
me know.
-Christian
On Mon, 7 Jan 2002, Marc A. Levy wrote:
> Happy Birthday JZD!!
>
>
> Did anyone send him a card this year?
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 16:08:11 -0600
From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Happy Birthday!
I almost forgot that today is JZD's B-day. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I
believe he turns 75 this year. He still looks like he's about 55. I hope I
age as well as he has.
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc A. Levy [mailto:malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 7:55 AM
To: DMC News (E-mail)
Subject: [DML] Happy Birthday!
Happy Birthday JZD!!
Did anyone send him a card this year?
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:17:00 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
In a message dated 1/6/02 10:38:12 PM Central Standard Time,
mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Right now I am still in the middle of building a jig to make a set of new
> lower control arms for my car....to.......minimize suspension unsprung
> weight for best handling. Unsprung weight is what is on the outboard end of
> the suspension - This includes wheels, tires, brake components, suspension
>
> Regards,
> Mike
> vin#1113
Mike, Are you sure you're working on the same car we are ?????
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 00:31:14 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
Walt, et al -
Are the photo's or other information regarding this lower control arm
failure available? Data like this can help pin-point areas of high
loads and also where stress concentrations exist in the current
configuration. Part of the logic that I am using in my deliberations
on this topic is that providing for "load sharing" would lower some
localized stresses, and reduce the amount of bending and deflections
that cause steel and other materials to crack due to fatigue. The
reduced bending would also enhance handling because the geometry of
the suspension would remain more stable and accurate. I am going to
try this out on my car, and try to draw some conclusions with regards
to load-sharing and possible suspension binding. I may be able to
instrument some of the suspension members with strain gauges to
measure actual induced loads during driving. (As they say - In God we
trust ... all others must bring data!). I want to commend those who
have contributed very thoughtful posts on this subject. As I have
said earlier - the power of a large group of interested people working
on a problem can be awesome.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
Included were photos of Tom Long's lower control arm that
failed under normal use. This was a stress fracture that grew over
time. It was a miracle that the piece broke while the car was parked
overnight and not being driven.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:48:00 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: trip odometer reset quirks
In a message dated 1/7/02 7:04:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< When I reset the odometer on my DeLorean, it usually takes two pushes of
the
button to get all the numbers back to zero. >>
Mine takes 2 pushes also.
Jim 6147
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 00:48:20 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
David - You are absolutely correct in your observations. This is why
I changed the sway bar bushings to urethane - both at the crumple tube
attachments, and where the sway bar attaches to the lower control arm.
The high loads transmitted through the sway bar cause the lower
control arms and the sway bar itself to move around quite a bit during
hard cornering and heavy braking - especially with the relatively soft
rubber stock bushings. The flexing of the lower control arm becomes
the next issue in line after the sway bar attachment is attended to.
As an aside, the rear bushings at the sway bar/control arm attachment
should be examined at our earliest convenience. Mine were in very bad
shape, with the rubber "doughnut" peeled away from the steel sleeve,
and cracked in several places. My car has about 75K miles. This
condition caused erratic directional control during braking, and a
gradual toe-out condition that made the steering very sensitive, and
increased tire wear. The inspection is fairly simple, and replacement
stock bushings are cheap (if you want to replace with stock).
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> After seeing my post up on the DML I realized I mispoke (mistyped)
> when I said under braking the wheels want to move foward. What I
meant
> is that the BODY of the car wants to move foward of the wheels which
> means the wheels want to move rearward. The sway bar provides a
> restraining force to hold the wheel in the correct position. Just
> another force to keep in mind that gets trasfered to the crumple
> tubes which is probably why they had a recall on it to beef up where
> it attaches to spread out the forces.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10751
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 00:59:19 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bleeding clutch fluid
Joe - If your fluid has disappeared without a trace, you may want to
carefully examine your floor mat and carpet. When my master cylinder
began to leak, there was no sign of leakage that I could see. Then, I
noticed that the heel of my right shoe was getting stained by
something. The clutch fluid is nearly clear and odorless, and can
soak into the carpeting without a lot of external evidence. You may
want to check it out before you get all exicited about a "bleed job".
The solution is to rebuild or replace your master cylinder. There
seems to be a lot of that going around recently.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
>I found my fluid reservoir empty but no signs on the garage floor of
>leakage.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 01:04:55 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: USENET Archives..
Hi all, long time no posting.. Looking forward to June.
Perhaps a little off-topic here, but i found this very interesting.
Google has available now 20 years of archived USENET messages. This
means you can now literally go back in time and read messages of the
days gone by regarding The Delorean automobile, man, and scnadal.
here is the link to the search page. just set the filter date at the
bottom.
http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search?hl=en
One odd post was about how Cabbage Patch Dolls were apparently being
used to smuggle drugs by JZD. Lots of odd, interesting stuff there.
ENJOY!
-Jeff Chabotte
Webmaster: http://www.88-mph.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2002 21:39:48 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: O-ring part number
George, I have been working on a reference for the o rings. I may have the item your looking for on my web site.There is a price sheet and chart of them.
Go to
http://www.specialtauto.com/talk-view.shtml
Bottom of the page.
John Hervey
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 19:20:54 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: torsion bar removal
I'm trying to tighen my torsion bars, but seems to be having problems
with it. I guess it IS best in the hands of a skillled professional. I
can't get the retaining bracket off the splines. I started to pull it
off, but it got stuck. Then the whole torsion bar started coming out
from the door mounted side. what's up with this? The book implies that
the bracket should just slide off the spline. The bracket will slide on
the spline inward, but will not come off any more than flush with the
spline.
send help.
1537
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 19:22:36 -0800
From: "Michael Quinto" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
Walter,
Just to give you some background about myself, I work for a small company
called Raceco. We build prototype high speed mobility vehicles for the
military.
I'm not an engineer but a metal fabricator. I build the suspension arms,
jigs, tubular chassis, body panels, etc.
The tubular frame structure, and all suspension components are made from
4130 condition N materials.
Everything on our cars are light weight and have been tested at NATC. We do
not use any mild steel whatsoever
We use a specific type of welding wire (sorry I don't know the grade off
hand) and an argon mix gas.
www.theflyergroup.com
sometimes this page doesn't work.
The original suspension arms that are on my DeLorean now are in need of
replacing. For some reason someone had welded a small piece of flatstrap
around the area of the balljoint on one side. I don't know why but it scares
me.
And that small lip that is on the bottom where the balljoint fits through is
totally gone. For awhile I wondered why my car made such a loud clunk noise,
now I know.
Almost a year ago I won an ebay auction for a set of lower control arms. I
intended on using them to make my jig and make three sets of arms. One set I
would keep and install. The other 2 sets I would sell sometime later, after
I put 1,000 miles and crack check the ones on my car.
There had been a long period of time where I was either very lazy or busy
with other projects. Or I would have been by now. So I decided to finish
them. Now I have our company's engineer looking over my shoulder giving me
advice.
It will be impossible to try to keep within the weight of the original arms.
I'm hoping no more than a pound.
As long as I keep all the major parts of the arm the same, balljoint, pivot
tube, sway bar tube and shock location. I can cut some weight from some
places and add a half box structure.
As for the coil spring cup, I looked into a couple of companies that sell
suspension pieces including the spring cup.
But our springs are not a common size so I couldn't use them. I'm sure I'll
find something out there or have made, I just haven't thought about it to
much. I have many catalogs and resources available to me at work.
I'll keep you informed and take some pictures when I'm done.
Regards
Mike
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 03:35:51 -0000
From: "deloreanfl" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel pressure at the injectors?
Just when I was getting comfortable with my understanding of the CFI
system on my D, I've confused myself.
Could somebody please set me straight with what "portion" of the Fuel
injection system actually limits (or controls) the fuel pressure
specifically at the injectors?
I realize the injectors are mechanical, and open at about 3-3.5 BAR.
I also understand the fuel distributor sends the fuel to the
injectors, and that there is a System Pressure regulator inside the
distributor.
I dug out my trusty gauge, measured the system pressure, control
pressure (CPR)...etc. Compared them to the shop manual (all being
within specs). But I cannot figure out why, with minimal air-plate
deflection, not all of the injectors fire...but deflecting the plate
further they all fire equally.
Bad Injectors? Faulty Fuel Dist.?
BTW: all tests were done with the RPM relay bypassed, obviously all
injectors removed.
Thanks
Eric
Dunedin, FL
VIN# 5557
ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2002 22:50:57 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Happy Birthday!
his birthday was the 6th and he turned 77.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 05:05:11 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front Suspension Mod's
Changing the bushings from rubber to ureathane will only affect
"compliance". They will also last longer and are not affected by
leaking oil or gasoline but the type of bushing has no effect on the
loads that need to transfered. Ureathane having less compliance will
make the ride harder and transmit more body noise. Not always
objectionable but you should be aware of the possible consequences.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> David - You are absolutely correct in your observations. This is
why
> I changed the sway bar bushings to urethane - both at the crumple
tube
> attachments, and where the sway bar attaches to the lower control
arm.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 05:17:30 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car wont start (continued).
A quick and "dirty" method is to remove the wire that goes from the
ignition coil to the distributer at the distributer.(It is the big one
in the center of the distributer cap). Stick it under something so the
end is about 1/4 inch from the block (you don't want to hold it with
your hand) and while someone is cranking the engine you watch for a
lot of nice blue sparks. NEVER DO THIS NEAR A FUEL HOSE OR IF YOU
SUSPECT GAS LEAKS. The spark could jump right through a fuel hose and
burn it and could ignite a gas leak. A better way is to remove a spark
plug wire and stick an extra plug in the wire and set the plug against
the block. BE CAREFUL. You are dealing with thousands of volts. The
shock probably won't kill you but you can seriously hurt yourself when
you recoil from the "jolt". If you are not comfortable in dealing with
this it might be time to get some help. Another way to go would be to
put a SMALL amount of starting fluid (ether) into the air intake while
cranking and see if it sputters and starts. If it runs at all then you
know it's a fuel problem. If the starter is turning the motor at a
reasonable speed don't worry about it's voltage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Could you please walk me through how to check for spark? I remember
it got
> posted a while back, but I dont have that post anymore.
>
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:27:36 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: trip odometer reset quirks
In a message dated 1/7/02 9:01:25 PM Central Standard Time, jwit6@xxxxxx
writes:
> << When I reset the odometer on my DeLorean, it usually takes two pushes of
> the button to get all the numbers back to zero. >>
>
>
>
If the reset arm is installed correctly and the "timing" between the reset
arm and the trip meter is adjusted correctly, the numbers should all reset to
zero with one push of the reset arm. "Retiming" /adjusting the reset arm
requires complete disassembly of the speedometer which, if not done
correctly, can also involve having to re-calibrate the speedo when it's all
put back together. Unless you have to tear the speedo out for some other
reason or repair, I'd just keep pushing the arm a second time.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 08:25:18 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Drive train and cooling system problems
Wanted some input from the group so I don't go off on a tangent. Will start
with recent repairs.
Basically I am on a guest to replace all the deteriorating rubber on my car.
Decided to replace the cooling hoses first since they were so bad
(replaced the radiator too). Accidentally spilled some antifreeze on the
water pump and it made something like a rattle noise when I restarted. This
soon went away so I assumed it was the fluid on the various belts burning
off.
In addition to the radiator work I relocated my throttle cover plate so it
was actually over the throttle (yes the previous owner had it on the wrong
side and it was a source of great humor when I went to meet some fellow D
owners at Biltmore, NC last summer). A possible problem here is the air
intake system had obviously been disassembled by a previous owner since it
was re-sealed with some type of paste vs. an o-ring. When relocating the
cover plate I did pull out some of this sealant in the process
removing/replacing the bolts that held the plate in place (possible vacuum
leak?).
Drove the care on a 250 mile short trip this past weekend and everything was
fine. Engine temp stays just below the lower hash mark (any idea what the
actual temp of that mark is?) and it performed well. If I had created a
vacuum leak I assume it would have showed up on this trip but didn't notice
anything.
Yesterday morning the rattle noise returned with the addition of an
occasional (as near as I can call it) squeak and a something of a grind.
The rattle/grind progressed with time and is almost continuous now. It
seams to be coming from the water pump area.
On the same drive I started getting a lurch/buck in third-fifth gears.
Initially if I put it in 4th and drove on level ground the bucking stopped.
It feels like when you shift gears too soon and a vehicle jerks you around
until you reach a speed which matched you current gear range. This kind of
went away as the car warmed up; however, it returned more significantly on
the trip home that evening (and did not go away as the engine warmed up).
The engine seems to be running fine and I am assuming it is not a fuel feed
problem since I had a full tank and there does not appear to be a bucking
problem in first at all even with a moderate acceleration. I did start to
get a hint of bucking in second on the return trip too.
From all the above my leaning is:
1) Replace the water pump
2) Need a new clutch (car has 37k+ miles and I assume it is the original
clutch)
All that said, one more question. From the top of the recovery bottle a
3/4" hose comes off and goes toward the back of the engine. As near as I
can tell, a "T" routes this hose into the engine and routes the second hose
under the car to disappear behind a large metal plate. There also appears
to be another hose entering the same location but I did not trace that one.
I assume this is to the heater core. Is this true? Is this something I can
replace w/o disassembling the car? Parts manual was useless to me here so I
guess I missed something.
Thanks,
Ed
10541
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