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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Up to date styling?
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
3. Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
4. [ETDOC] Event approaching for Gatlinburg
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
5. strange wiring
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Strange click
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Strange click
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Throttle sticking - I think
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. Re: Throttle sticking - I think
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
10. Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
11. evil rust
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Brake Lights (again)
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Torsion bar rust - scotchbrite OK?
From: tylergraves@xxxxxxxxxxx
14. DMC Engine Weight?
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
15. Brake Light Circuit Boards For sale
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
16. RE: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: evil rust
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
18. Re: DMC Engine Weight?
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
19. Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
20. Re: evil rust
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: Torsion bar rust - scotchbrite OK?
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: DMC Engine Weight?
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
23. Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
24. My FIRST proper questions!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Poll results for dmcnews
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 16:42:49 -0500
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Up to date styling?
In your writeup to the DeLorean on that comparison to other late 1970's cars, you say it
was made an "official prototype in 1997"? I'm curious as to what exactly this means? Do
any of the prototype D's still exist, and what you you mean by "Official" (by who, and
since when do prototypes have to be made official?) and why 1997?
Joe
Michael Babb wrote:
> The question as to whether the styling of the DeLorean has held up or not
> has come up on the list from time to time. I actually created a web page
> about a year ago that shows some of the things that were "new and different"
> in 1982, as well as the styling of some cars that were developed about the
> same time as the DeLorean (late 70's to early 80's).
>
> The page is available at http://www.babbtechnology.com/time/index.htm. Check
> it out, then you be the judge as to whether the styling has held up or not!
>
> Cheers!
>
> MICHAEL C. BABB
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
******************************************************
"Time to kiss your ass goodbye,
The End has just begun!"
"Set the World Afire" (So Far, So Good, So What?)
by Megadeth (Mustaine)
******************************************************
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 20:26:10 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
Andy,
You could probably do it with all new stuff for about $1600.00, but you would
have to fabricate the fuel rails, tps mounting and brackets, and do the
programming/tuning yourself.
About (these are ball park :-)
$900.00 for the ECU, AT and ET sensors,
$400.00 for new Bosch injectors,
$100.00 for MAP sensor and pressure regulator,
$ 60.00 for TPS
$ 50.00 for fuel rail fab parts and TPS bracket parts.
$100.00 in misc like R9 MPI fuel line, clamps, fittings, wire looms, cable
ties, etc...
--------------------
$1610.00 maybe if you do some engineering, the programming, tuning and
fabrication your self.
Hope this helps.
The car and conversion has just been featured on the Racetech web site in
thier "Projects" section. http://www.sdsefi.com/features/nov01del.htm Check
the bottom of their home page for other projects. They're at www.sdsefi.com
You might want to check it out.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 20:33:04 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: front brake rotor replacement
Too much torque definitely can warp rotors. Each auto and rotor manufacturer
combination has it's own level of sensitivity to this problem. One example at
the top of the list is the Mistubishi Diamante. Especially the early models.
If front wheel lugs were torqued to anything over 80 ft lbs, after about 2-5
thousand miles, the rotors would warp like clockwork. But these were rotors
that were sandwiched between the hub and the wheel assy. This is not the case
with the DMC-12. Overtorquing on the DMC-12 would first have to physically
warp the hub assy to transfer the stress to the rotor itself. Not probable
under most circumstances.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 18:31:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [ETDOC] Event approaching for Gatlinburg
Hello group-
For all of those attending the ETDOC event this weekend,
here is the current schedule for the weekend:
Gather at the Park Vista Resort and meet in the lobby at
7pm. We will then depart for TGI Fridays for dinner.
Afterwards everyone can be on their own. A group of us is
going to enjoy the indoor pool at the resort, while others
are going to enjoy the shopping areas of Gatlinburg.
Sunday morning we will gather in the lobby of the hotel at
10am to depart for the Aquarium and then on to the Cars of
the Stars Musuem. After those two events we will eat lunch
then go for the driving tour which should last only a few
hours. Afterwards it will be time to depart for home- or
go shopping for those that may want to get some holiday
shopping out of the way in the outlet malls.
Directions to the Park Vista are as follows:
Take I40 to the 407 exit and follow signs to Great Smokey
Mountains/ Gatlinburg.
From the interstate..it is a few miles to Gatlinburg. You
will pass Sevierville, Pigeon Forge, the Gatlinburg.
Once you reach Gatlinburg, turn left at traffic light 8
(the traffic lights are numbered!) After about a half mile
(after passing the entrance to the observation tower)..the
roads will split in 3 directions..the road to the Park
Vista Resort is straight forward. The DeLorean parking
area will be roped off directly in front of the entrance to
the Resort's main door.
If anyone needs help in getting there, or have any
questions-- please call me!
Best Regards-
The ETDOC Group
Aaron Posey
865-310-2228
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:52:36 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: strange wiring
it just reminded me when David Teitelbaum was talking about strange
wiring in the car... I found some strange wiring behind the driver's seat
under the shelf. It looks like an add-on relay. After further
inspection and disassembly of the car I found that it was the relay for
the power antenna. The wires to the rear left of the car (to the
antenna) didn't even go through the seal in the "firewall", but around
the seal. Has anyone else seen anything like this in their car?
Also, my antenna is broken. Can just the antenna part be replaced or do
I have to replace the whole motor assembly?
1537
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2001 15:54:36 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Strange click
which reminds me; how DOES the intermittent turn off? sometimes when I
hit the lever by accident I have problems making the wipers stop. At
first inspection, when they turn off seems unrelated to what I do...
1537
On Wed, 31 Oct 2001 19:02:16 +0000 Martin Gutkowski
<webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> Dodgy intermittent wiper relay? Sounds like that and comes from
> there....
>
> Just realised today that a) I HAD an intermittent setting and b) how
> to turn it on, and then off afterwards....
>
> Martin
> #1458 - should be running tomorrow
>
> S CAGLE wrote:
>
> >
> > As minute as this may seem, I do suffer from a terrible case of
> paranoia when it comes to my car, so I figured I'd throw this one
> in. Along with all the other rattles and squeaks that comes along
> with a 20 year old car that's driven every day around rural NC
> (where the potholes can swallow a Winnebego) I have suddenly noticed
> this steady click coming from the instrument cluster. It happens
> about every 5-10 seconds and sounds just like the click that the
> turn signal gives. Anyone think this is important, or is my
> paranoia getting to me again?
> >
> > Scott
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 14:03:07 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Strange click
Scott, I'll throw in my 2 cents. If the door switch, I think the top
one isn't opening the circuit when the door is closed or it's
marginal, and your driving in those big pot holes, the door alarm
buzzers often makes a clicking sound if it isn't working correctly.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxx> wrote:
>
> As minute as this may seem, I do suffer from a terrible case of
paranoia when it comes to my car, so I figured I'd throw this one
in. Along with all the other rattles and squeaks that comes along
with a 20 year old car that's driven every day around rural NC (where
the potholes can swallow a Winnebego) I have suddenly noticed this
steady click coming from the instrument cluster. It happens about
every 5-10 seconds and sounds just like the click that the turn
signal gives. Anyone think this is important, or is my paranoia
getting to me again?
>
> Scott
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 03:42:35 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Throttle sticking - I think
You have to find the source of the binding. Try disconnecting the
throttle cable or if automatic the cable to the trans and see if it
returns fully to idle. It could just be that you need to lubricate the
spool or throttle cable. A quick temporary fix would be to add a
spring. Sometimes the floor mats or carpet could interfere with the
pedal causing this.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Well I've been trying to pin this one down for a little while. The
> situation is that when i drive around for a little while, my
throttle
> appears to stick and I idle at around 1500 RPM. The throttle spool
appears
> to return fully, but it's not until I push down on the arm (the one
that
> trips the idle microswitch) that it drops down to about 900 RPM
(where
> it's set to idle). I adjusted the screw that trips the microswitch,
but
> that doesn't seem to be the problem. When idling high, I've taken a
dowel
> and triped the microswitch without disturbing the arm. No
difference. But
> then when I press the arm down, the idle drops to 900.
>
> Is there something else that that arm is tripping? Something else
that
> needs to be adjusted?
>
> Happy Halloween!
>
> -Christian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 13:48:50 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Throttle sticking - I think
Christian, I will concur with Jwit. If you will take off the front
bull horn on the intake manifold, you will see the butterflies in the
throttle body. Clean the grung out and final clean with Berrymans B12
spray. They have to close all the way. It only takes about 30 minutes
and I clean mine out about every two or three years. Even better if
you are ok with mechanic work. Take the throttle body out to really
clean it good, then relubricate and reinstall.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Well I've been trying to pin this one down for a little while. The
> situation is that when i drive around for a little while, my
throttle
> appears to stick and I idle at around 1500 RPM. The throttle spool
appears
> to return fully, but it's not until I push down on the arm (the one
that
> trips the idle microswitch) that it drops down to about 900 RPM
(where
> it's set to idle). I adjusted the screw that trips the microswitch,
but
> that doesn't seem to be the problem. When idling high, I've taken a
dowel
> and triped the microswitch without disturbing the arm. No
difference. But
> then when I press the arm down, the idle drops to 900.
>
> Is there something else that that arm is tripping? Something else
that
> needs to be adjusted?
>
> Happy Halloween!
>
> -Christian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 00:46:26 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
From: <jwit6@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: DMC How are the fuel injector supposed to work in this
system?
Andy,
You could probably do it with all new stuff for about $1600.00, but you
would have to fabricate the fuel rails, tps mounting and brackets, and do the
programming/tuning yourself.
Now lets see, that's a 20 HP increase over stock for $1600, or about $80
per HP. The DMC Houston Hi-Po engine gives about a 70 HP increase over
stock.....at $80 per HP that equals $5600, which is real close to the actual
cost to have this work performed.
Maybe we've just established another Delorean "standard" or "average" cost
factor of $80 per HP for performance gains ??? How fa$t do you want to go ?
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 02:21:39 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: evil rust
Hey all,
today while replacing my angle drive i got a real good look at a rust problem
of mine. my sway bar is coated in rust with the paint just kind of sitting
over it, easily peeled off. also, the front suspension, upper and lower
parts, as well as my coils are pretty rusty. i mean none of it is totally
coated in rust, it's just that it seems like there is probably rust under all
of the paint, and it is super dirty around the suspension under the angle
drive with road grit.
is this common or should i seriously think about a big 'ol restoration job in
my near future?
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 18:53:06 +0000
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights (again)
Take the board out and apply 12V to the stop light strip. Do they light? No? Remove a
bulb and apply 12V to it. Bulb ok? Run a continuity test from strips to sockets and/or
read the voltage at the socket. Still ok? Check input voltage at the stoplight switch.
OK there? Bridge the switch and see if your stoplights come on. Yes? Check for proper
positioning or Replace the switch. No? Bad connection or wire. (I'm assuming you
checked the fuse first, right?)
Willie Mack wrote:
> Alright guys, my brake lights still don't work. I took them apart and
> looked at them closely. It appears that the previous owner tried soldering
> the bulb sockets back to the board, because every socket has a little piece
> of solder on it. It is safe to rule that out as a possibility? Where else
> could i look for the solution?
>
> Thanks
> Willie Mack
> Vin 5043
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 14:52:43 -0000
From: tylergraves@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Torsion bar rust - scotchbrite OK?
I'm curious; does everyone agree that the fine scratches produced by
scotchbriting the torsion bar are ok? I would think any scratches
would be of concern. I won't even touch the thing in fear of
scratching it with a ring or tool of some sort. Some feed back on
this would be nice because I would like to rest easy and perhaps
remove some slight corrosion.
Thanks,
Tyler
#3472
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, tobyp@xxxx wrote:
> The torsion bar is made from cryogenically tempered spring steel,
and
> is highly stressed due to the 90 degree twist that it has to go
> through every time the door is opened or closed. Any scratches or
> corrosion pits (even microscopic pits) can lead to fatigue cracks
in
> the bar, which will eventually result in failure of the bar in
> fatigue. The bar should be thoroughly cleaned with a fine
scotchbrite
> pad or stainless steel wool, but not regular steel wool. The iron
> particles in steel wool will create a corrosion cell very quickly,
if
> they are imbedde din the material of the bar. The cleaned bar
should
> then be painted with a good rust-inhibiting paint, or treated with
a
> rust inhibitor such as cosmoline, or something like it. BTW -
> replacement of the bar is no big deal ... BUYING the replacement
can
> be, as I understand it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 16:19:49 -0000
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DMC Engine Weight?
Does anyone know the approximate weight of the DMC Engine (with all
the main stuff attached?) I need to pick up an engine stand and
wasn't sure how beefy of a stand, or if i need to look for something
particular...
Thanks
Pete
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 16:24:22 -0000
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Brake Light Circuit Boards For sale
If you are looking for Brake Light Circuit Boards, let me know...I
have an original pair that were clean when I took them off the car
and working, but I jumped the gun on ordering the circuit boards and
decided to just put the updated ones in.
I found my problem to be a brake light switch... I had picked up the
car from the seller and had to solve this brake light problem
quickly...
Just drop me an offer...I can email you a photo later as
well...includes all the bulbs...
Pete
pbweb(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 10:55:25 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
Too bad cost for performance is not linear!
In my investigations for performance improvements to the PRV, the price
starts to jump when you get around the 200-225HP area. Much more than
$80 per Horse.
-----Original Message-----
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx [mailto:wingd2@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 12:46 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
<SNIP>
Now lets see, that's a 20 HP increase over stock for $1600, or about
$80
per HP. The DMC Houston Hi-Po engine gives about a 70 HP increase over
stock.....at $80 per HP that equals $5600, which is real close to the
actual
cost to have this work performed.
Maybe we've just established another Delorean "standard" or "average"
cost
factor of $80 per HP for performance gains ??? How fa$t do you want to
go ?
Marty
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 18:24:18 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: evil rust
Andy,
Rust is always a concern. Rust on the springs is somewhat normal for
all cars. You might want to clean that sway bar up though. Bring it
to a sandblaster and have them remove all the old paint/rust then
either Powder coat it or Paint it with POR-15. As for the Lower
control arms....GET them cleaned up of any rust, they arn't
available anymore (as Walt pointed out) and if you do find one are
VERY expensive. The uppers are available and are in the ballpark of
$100+ (without the ball joint). If you have time I would strip down
the entire front suspension, get all the parts sandblasted (remove
the ball joints before sand blasting!) and get them powder coated OR
paint them with POR-15.
My 2 cents
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey all,
>
> today while replacing my angle drive i got a real good look at a
rust problem
> of mine. my sway bar is coated in rust with the paint just kind
of sitting
> over it, easily peeled off. also, the front suspension, upper and
lower
> parts, as well as my coils are pretty rusty. i mean none of it is
totally
> coated in rust, it's just that it seems like there is probably
rust under all
> of the paint, and it is super dirty around the suspension under
the angle
> drive with road grit.
>
> is this common or should i seriously think about a big 'ol
restoration job in
> my near future?
>
> Andy
>
> Soma576@xxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 18:22:06 -0000
From: knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Engine Weight?
I don't have the precise weight, but I can give some indication. I
have a spare DMC engine on a stand in my shop and the basic block (no
heads, no intake manifold, no exhaust, no alternator, no A/C compressor) is light enough that I lift it myself. Those that have met me know that I'm a 90-
pound weakling.
Knut
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, pbmain@xxxx wrote:
> Does anyone know the approximate weight of the DMC Engine (with all
> the main stuff attached?) I need to pick up an engine stand and
> wasn't sure how beefy of a stand, or if i need to look for
something
> particular...
>
> Thanks
> Pete
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 18:29:28 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
Sounds like a great project for someone who needs to replace their
Fuel system. I mean the Fuel distrib is $1000.00+ new, fuel
injectors are ~$35 a piece (~$210 for all 6), Control presure
regulator is ~$500.00 new or ~$200 rebuilt. That right there comes
out to about ~$1710.00 with a new CPR and ~$1410.00 with a rebuilt
CPR valve.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> Andy,
> You could probably do it with all new stuff for about $1600.00,
but you would
> have to fabricate the fuel rails, tps mounting and brackets, and
do the
> programming/tuning yourself.
>
> About (these are ball park :-)
> $900.00 for the ECU, AT and ET sensors,
> $400.00 for new Bosch injectors,
> $100.00 for MAP sensor and pressure regulator,
> $ 60.00 for TPS
> $ 50.00 for fuel rail fab parts and TPS bracket parts.
> $100.00 in misc like R9 MPI fuel line, clamps, fittings, wire
looms, cable
> ties, etc...
> --------------------
> $1610.00 maybe if you do some engineering, the programming, tuning
and
> fabrication your self.
>
> Hope this helps.
> The car and conversion has just been featured on the Racetech web
site in
> thier "Projects" section.
http://www.sdsefi.com/features/nov01del.htm Check
> the bottom of their home page for other projects. They're at
www.sdsefi.com
> You might want to check it out.
> Jim
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 15:18:53 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: evil rust
On every DeLorean that I have looked under, most have the flaking paint
problem on the sway bar and springs. It seems that once these parts loose
all their paint and form an even layer of rust then the problem doesn't go
any further.
Again, I'm waiting to see what DMC Houston comes up with. Steve Wynne is
talking about making an A-frame(?) upgrade that will replace the weak lower
control arms and sway bar. I hope he gets around to finishing this project
before I have those new geometry sway bars made up. I have too many other
projects keeping me busy for a long time anyway.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 23:01:59 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar rust - scotchbrite OK?
I thought we came to the conclusion on this list a year ago that the
torsion bars are made of stainless steel. Are you sure your "rust"
isn't just discoloration created from the twists in the bar?
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2001 14:50:43 -0500
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Engine Weight?
I just took mine out... it's not light, but wasn't too much problem for
two people to muscle around. I'd say with most of the stuff attached,
it's the better part of 300 lbs. Maybe I'll get my scale out.
1537
On Thu, 01 Nov 2001 16:19:49 -0000 pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Does anyone know the approximate weight of the DMC Engine (with all
> the main stuff attached?) I need to pick up an engine stand and
> wasn't sure how beefy of a stand, or if i need to look for something
>
> particular...
>
> Thanks
> Pete
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 22:48:02 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC How are the fuel injector suppose to work in this system?
Does anyone know if it would be possible to use the fuel rails
w/injectors from an Eagle Priemier engine, or would they interfere
with the DeLorean's intake manifold? And if thats the case, would it
be possible to use the intake manifold from the Priemer engine as it
appears to be a bit more refinded than the DeLorean's?
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> Andy,
> You could probably do it with all new stuff for about $1600.00, but
you would
> have to fabricate the fuel rails, tps mounting and brackets, and do
the
> programming/tuning yourself.
>
> About (these are ball park :-)
> $900.00 for the ECU, AT and ET sensors,
> $400.00 for new Bosch injectors,
> $100.00 for MAP sensor and pressure regulator,
> $ 60.00 for TPS
> $ 50.00 for fuel rail fab parts and TPS bracket parts.
> $100.00 in misc like R9 MPI fuel line, clamps, fittings, wire looms,
cable
> ties, etc...
> --------------------
> $1610.00 maybe if you do some engineering, the programming, tuning
and
> fabrication your self.
>
> Hope this helps.
> The car and conversion has just been featured on the Racetech web
site in
> thier "Projects" section.
http://www.sdsefi.com/features/nov01del.htm Check
> the bottom of their home page for other projects. They're at
www.sdsefi.com
> You might want to check it out.
> Jim
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2001 22:43:02 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: My FIRST proper questions!
Hi Guys
Well, tonight I started my DeLorean for the first time (it has sat for 4 years). The fuel
system has been completely checked from end-to-end. All the hoses gave been blown through,
the car has a new tank, pickup filter, pump, boot and fuel filter as well as spark plugs, oil
change etc etc. The car was never cranked with the mulch in the tank, and everything we did
disassemble on the engine was beautifully clean.
So what happenned then?
We put 10litres of petrol in the tank together with two bottles of injector cleaner, after
the expected delay in starting as the pump filled all the lines, it did start but wouldn't
idle. It started a second time and would stay running as long as the I kept the revs at
1500-2000. We then discovered a fuel leak and set about fixing it. No problem.
We then started it again but with a large amount of difficulty (loads of cranking and had to
jump the battery which was rapidly getting flat). And I sat for a good 5 minutes keeping the
revs at 1500. It still wouldn't idle and stalled.
...and that was it. We've not been able to get it going since. We've let it go cold and tried
again, but still no luck.
Now I should explain that my mechanic is familiar with the engine in its Renault guise, and
is a thoroughly competant mechanic - we checked and double checked that everyhting was back
the way it should be, and as far as we can see, it is.
I've read the article about the CPR, and that's item #1 on tomorrow's job list, but if
anyone;s got any other bright ideas, I'd love to hear them. Given the clean state of
everything else, it's unlikely something's got stuck in that, but we'll see.
On another note, the car's in wonderful condition mechanically - but there's one funny thing.
On the very front end tip of the gearbox (manual) there's a cap the size of a bottle top
which is loose but won't come out. It looks as if someone's tried to bond it back in using JB
Weld or similar - can anyone tell me what this thing is and what (if anything) we need to do
about it?
Cheers!
Martin
#1458
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Message: 25
Date: 2 Nov 2001 08:31:38 -0000
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Poll results for dmcnews
The following dmcnews poll is now closed. Here are the
final results:
POLL QUESTION: What is your age bracket?
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- 0-19, 6 votes, 8.96%
- 20-29, 28 votes, 41.79%
- 30-39, 11 votes, 16.42%
- 40-49, 15 votes, 22.39%
- 50-59, 3 votes, 4.48%
- 60-69, 4 votes, 5.97%
- 70-79, 0 votes, 0.00%
- 80-89, 0 votes, 0.00%
- proud to be driving!, 0 votes, 0.00%
For more information about this group, please visit
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