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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 20 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. DeLorean Holiday Cards Once Again Available
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: update on speedo noise
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. RE: DeLorean Holiday Cards
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Antenna problem
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. How to add a fuel pressure monitor
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. any NJ DMC owners?
From: "dan g." <copper_trace@xxxxxxxxx>
7. DeLorean Car Show & Dent
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
8. Re: update on speedo noise
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: instrument cluster lights - help!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
10. Re: update on speedo noise
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: DeLorean Holiday Cards
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
12. Like new dealer parts discovered!
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: update on speedo noise
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: How to add a fuel pressure monitor
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart
From: johndmc57@xxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: update on speedo noise
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
19. RE: Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: convex side mirrors on eBay
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 08:55:24 -0500
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Holiday Cards Once Again Available
For information go to http://www.dmcnews.com and follow the link in the middle of
the page. This may be the last time, I'm getting tired of dealing with it.
Quantity discount available. Great for your club door prizes!
Dave Swingle
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 13:46:33 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: update on speedo noise
I can't remove my dustcap. It was kind of like glued around the cap, but
I've broken that loose but it still won't pop out. Is it suppossed to be
that tight?
Also, I bought a quart of gear oil (85w/140) and a needle for my grease gun.
Which is better for the angle drive, heavy gear oil (is that heavy enough?)
or regular grease injected via needle & gun?
----- Original Message -----
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Dmc /dml" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 8:25 AM
Subject: [DML] update on speedo noise
> I've been trying to narrow down the source of my speedo noise. To recap,
the
> speedo works great, is accurate, but it there is a clicking noise, at
least
> up to 45mph. At a slight roll it's a very loud clack, but is only every
few
> seconds. At 40mph is isn't always noticeable, and there is just a slight
> shiver to needle.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 11:30:23 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DeLorean Holiday Cards
When these cards were first offered, I bought several sets. The people that
I sent them to enjoyed the novelty of them and I received many positive
comments back.
Dave didn't mention this, but you buying these cards helps offset the cost
of providing the DeLorean Mailing List.
I know that I am able to get a lot of help and money saving suggestions from
the list. I also enjoy meeting with the other owners when I participate in
the shows. If you think about it, the most successful shows are the ones
organized via this mailing list, Ken M. show in California, and Ken K's.
shows in Ohio.
So Buy DeLorean Christmas cards.
OK, I'm getting down from my soap box.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: David Swingle [mailto:dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 8:55 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] DeLorean Holiday Cards Once Again Available
For information go to http://www.dmcnews.com and follow the link in the
middle of
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 14:54:52 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Antenna problem
This is an easy repair. You have to buy a new mast from Harada.
Details may be found in the archives:
http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/dml089903.html
-Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
At 1:06 AM +0000 10/7/01, garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>Problem #2: Automatic antenna wouldn't extend or retract. Took it
>apart and noticed the geared nylon strap that coils out to extend the
>antenna had snapped. Is this a user repairable item or is it time
>for a new antenna? The motor runs fine.
>
>Ed
>10541
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 15:01:42 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: How to add a fuel pressure monitor
I have succeeded in adding a permanently-installed fuel-pressure
sending unit to my fuel system. Details may be found in the DMCNEWS
website tech section:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fuelpressend.htm
Total cost is around $50.
Enjoy,
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 12:27:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: "dan g." <copper_trace@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: any NJ DMC owners?
I live in Manahawkin, NJ ... I don't have a
DeLorean...yet.
I was interested in meeting some local DMC owners or
talking to them on AIM or Yahoo and getting to know
more about the car, its idiosyncrasies and how to go
about making a wise purchase decision when I go to
finally buy one.
So far, of particular interest to me about these cars
is the reliability issue with the door openers and
window openers and the debate over actuators and
solenoids....also, the quality of the car's electrical
system (I do a lot of electrical work and I wondered
how much rebuilding and reinforcing I'll be doing),
the engine's weaknesses
I wondered about the electrical "strength" of the car.
I would like to know if one of the Optima batteries
will fit in the car? I know there is a alternator
upgrade. Is the ground for the engine and electrical
system the x-frame?
The other major concern of mine are the door
adjustments. I don't want to kill myself in the
process, and I'd like to look at some local cars to
see what's involved and what to "tweak" for.
Thanks for any and all help.
For the time being and continued future, I drive a 87
Buick Turbo Regal :) Wonder if I could get a DeLorean
to have the power capability to run 12s? ;)
=====
Dan G.
87 Turbo Regal
http://entremedia.iwarp.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
NEW from Yahoo! GeoCities - quick and easy web site hosting, just $8.95/month.
http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info1
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 16:21:29 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean Car Show & Dent
I just wanted to thank Ken Montgomery for a show well done in California. It
was interesting especially comparing the beginnings and the ending of the
Briklin and DeLorean some similarities and a lot of differences There were
films on the Bricklin that were intetesting. I had seen the DeLorean ones
before but the contrast was great.
It made it an interesting evening.
Great Show Ken
Now for the bad news
My concourse DeLorean and I took a ride to Autofest and it was at the event
James pointed out a big dent in none other than the left front fender.
this is the second such dent It has received.
Anyway it was about 8" long and while not very deep it was deep enough to be
noticable from every angle.
I will post pictures and a few step by step shots of it being pounded out and
repaired. Actually it took longer to take the fender off (20 min) and back
on again (35 min) than it did to repair the dent (25 min)
though you all might be interested in seeing the work.
I do bodywork and have the tools so in no way am I advocating that anyone can
just repair a fender but it was cheaper than the $685 to repair it
professionally.
My pictures will be developed by mid week and I need to scan it in so maybe
by next weekend
Ken
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 16:07:47 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: update on speedo noise
Another Question...
if you turn the LF wheel by hand while it's on jacks can you normally hear
clicks and action from inside angle drive at the start of the motion? Or
should I be working this problem until the AD is completely silent?
----- Original Message -----
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 1:46 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] update on speedo noise
> I can't remove my dustcap. It was kind of like glued around the cap, but
> I've broken that loose but it still won't pop out. Is it suppossed to be
> that tight?
>
> Also, I bought a quart of gear oil (85w/140) and a needle for my grease
gun.
> Which is better for the angle drive, heavy gear oil (is that heavy
enough?)
> or regular grease injected via needle & gun?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 8:25 AM
> > I've been trying to narrow down the source of my speedo noise. To recap,
> the
> > speedo works great, is accurate, but it there is a clicking noise, at
> least
> > up to 45mph. At a slight roll it's a very loud clack, but is only every
> few
> > seconds. At 40mph is isn't always noticeable, and there is just a slight
> > shiver to needle.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 17:10:26 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: instrument cluster lights - help!
In a message dated 10/6/01 10:46:32 AM Central Daylight Time, dherv10@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Andy, Several of the ground wires go to #12 & #13 by the diagram . Black is
> normally always gnd on the D. I haven't take a binnacle off yet, but I have
> seen the connector.12 is low beam side gnd and 13 is high beam side gnd. I
> may pull my binnacle off this weekend. I haven't traced where the grounds
> connect after the connector.
>
Hello everyone,
i am stupid. i found the reason why my low beam and right turn signal lights
wouldn't illuminate. when i removed the tachometer, i replaced the
paper/foam cushion upsidedown - which blocked viewing of the lights. boy did
i feel stupid when i realized that!!!!!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 16:48:18 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: update on speedo noise
Hmmm... the cable from AD seems to be fused with the cup. I am trying a
punch before I break the AD by pulling the cable end out.
----- Original Message -----
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] update on speedo noise
> Another Question...
> if you turn the LF wheel by hand while it's on jacks can you normally hear
> clicks and action from inside angle drive at the start of the motion? Or
> should I be working this problem until the AD is completely silent?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 1:46 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] update on speedo noise
> > I can't remove my dustcap. It was kind of like glued around the cap, but
> > I've broken that loose but it still won't pop out. Is it suppossed to be
> > that tight?
> >
> > Also, I bought a quart of gear oil (85w/140) and a needle for my grease
> gun.
> > Which is better for the angle drive, heavy gear oil (is that heavy
> enough?)
> > or regular grease injected via needle & gun?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 8:25 AM
> > > I've been trying to narrow down the source of my speedo noise. To
recap,
> > the
> > > speedo works great, is accurate, but it there is a clicking noise, at
> > least
> > > up to 45mph. At a slight roll it's a very loud clack, but is only
every
> > few
> > > seconds. At 40mph is isn't always noticeable, and there is just a
slight
> > > shiver to needle.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 17:55:12 EDT
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Holiday Cards
Scott has spoken and now it is my turn on the "soapbox". Buy these XMas
cards!! I too bought some and used them over the holidays. Like Scott, I too
got a lot of positive responce from those that I sent them to. This list has
helped all of us at one time or another, so dig in your pockets and buy some
cards and help out the list! By the way these are a"limited printing" I now
step off the box, anyone else want a turn?
Bruce Battles
Vin # 06569
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2001 18:18:21 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Like new dealer parts discovered!
Hey List!
About a month ago a friend of mine's uncle found out that the Ford
Dealership he works for in Cincinnati had some DeLorean parts in their
store room. I was doubtful, but headed over anyway to check them out.
Sure enough, he had quite a few parts available, all in either brand
new, or close to perfect shape. Needless to say I made him an offer and
thankfully he accepted!
The biggest part is an OEM radiator, the rest are mostly small
things, but important none-the-less. I've organized the inventory and
am offering the majority of them for sale on the DMCNEWS website. (hey
I gotta keep a few things, right?) The link is below:
http://www.dmcnews.com/deptofcmrce/_forsale/0000007d.htm
If you're interested in anything, make me an offer via private
e-mail...My address is in the ad. I know the ads with multiple parts
can sometimes be hard to read, so if you'd like a more legible parts
list, just e-mail me and I'll send one along.
Thanks for your attention,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 18:46:31 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: update on speedo noise
Kevin,
I had a similar problem with the dust cap on my angle drive. Every time I
tried to take it off, it would be loose from the hub, but the cable from the
angle drive would stick into it with a death grip. The last time it was
suck on there I needed two crowbars to pry it off. I'm surprised it didn't
take the angle drive cable with it. I figured out that the cable on my
angle drive was a little too long. I trimmed off about 3mm, and that made
the cap fit a lot easier. But this then created a new problem of having the
cable fray on the end. I suppose I could tin it with solder, but I would
probably have to remove it from the car to do it well.
If I had it to do over again, I would have drilled a hole through the end of
the cap to make more room for the cable instead of trimming the cable down.
As for what kind of lubrication is best for the angle drive, I think this is
a matter of opinion. I think most people recommend 90W gear oil. I think
the 85W/140 stuff you have would work fine. I heard that Ed Burnsting fits
grease zerks to his angle drives so that they can be greased with the ball
joints. But I think that that kind of grease would be too thick.
What I used in my angle drive was straight Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer.
That stuff is thick and gooey and takes a long time to seep out. I used the
same stuff in my steering rack, too. I can't say it is the best thing to
use, but I like the stuff. I haven't had any problems with it yet and nor
do I expect any.
Another problem that I have had in that area is rust on the hub. A little
corrosion gets in there and makes it hard to pull the wheel off. Now I
smear a little wheel bearing grease on the hub so it doesn't seize on there
anymore.
I'm curious to know of other people's experiences with these problems.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 19:20:58 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How to add a fuel pressure monitor
Pete,
That is a great article you wrote on adding a fuel pressure gauge to the
DeLorean. I have been pondering how to do it to my own car for a few months
now. There are some things that I plan on doing differently. For starters,
I think it is a bad idea to use an electronic sending unit. Sure, it gives
the advantage of being able to install a gauge in the cockpit, but this is
really unnecessary. I'm planning on installing a liquid filled mechanical
gauge in the engine compartment. If or when I really need to know the fuel
pressure, I can just look in the engine compartment. I don't need to know
the pressure while driving. Summitracing.com has a decent one in their
catalogue that should do nicely.
I had the same idea that you did about double-stacking banjo fittings. I
was wondering where I could find a double-stacking 8mm bolt. I figured that
I might need to custom make one. I'm glad you found a source.
Do you think that there is an advantage by tapping off of the fuel
distributor rather than on the side of the control pressure regulator? They
both look to be about the same distance from mounting it to the firewall.
I think there is a market for putting together such a kit to save people the
trouble of hunting down all the weird fittings. What do you think?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 17:26:02 -0700
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
Not that this will help, but I have the same problem exactly. Problem is
that I know why. I had the car worked on and the door was left open while
the car was elevated in a lift. The door was compressed at the forward edge
(the corner was curled) and when I went to pick it up the entire door was
about two inches out of true with the body work. I tied it closed enough to
get it home (I couldn't get out of there fast enough), and tried to unbend
it myself. It is now closeable but as you describe. Try as I might I can
not get it back to original. I would say it is out about 3/8 inch relative
to the surrounding panels. I will be following this thread in hopes of
getting it back to proper operation.
If I get braver I might try to clamp a 8 ft. long 2x4 to the lower edge to
act as an extended lever and brute force the twist back out of it. My fear
is that I might break some glass as it got pretty scary just getting it to
where it is now.
Donald L. Ekhoff
----- Original Message -----
From: <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
> HELP!
>
> I have almost the exact problem on my passenger door. The SS isn't
> hitting the GRP, but the doorguide and latch DO rub against the end
> of the rear striker-pin.
>
> Here are the problems: (knowing that each latch actually latches
> twice)
>
> 1) The rear doorguide and latch rub against the end of the rear
> striker-pin
> 2) slowly closing from the center of the door, the front latch (first
> latch)catches first.
> 3) Then the (first latch) of the rear door catches after another 1/4-
> 1/2" of pushing.
> 4) Then the (final latch) of the front latch latches.
> 5) I have to push the rear of the door in (HARD) in order to have the
> rear (final latch) latch.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 01:10:09 -0000
From: johndmc57@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart
I went for an inspection, did not pass because the mechanics said my
steering rack had a bad bushing and too much play in it. I questioned
their opinion and took my steering rack apart. I mean really apart
(everything). Suprise, there are no bushings in the steering rack.
Tommorrow I am going to take it to the inspection station and show
these guys there are no bushings in the rack. My question is, would
lack of oil cause play in the rack, mine was almost dry, and what
would you put in for oil after I fix any leak.
john
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 01:27:22 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Flunk inspection/took my steering rack apart
Service manual calls for 0.3 pints (about 6 ounces) of 90W gear oil.
Lak of oil by itself will not cause play in the rack, but will cause
things to wear out faster.
If you have it this far apart the source of the play should be
obvious, either the inner tie rod ends, the tie rods themselves, or
backlash in the rack&pinion gears. The other place I've seen play is
excessive wear on the slide bearings at the end of the housing where
the rack slides back and forth.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, johndmc57@xxxx wrote:
> I . . took my steering rack apart. I mean really apart
> (everything). Suprise, there are no bushings in the steering rack.
> Tommorrow I am going to take it to the inspection station and show
> these guys there are no bushings in the rack. My question is, would
> lack of oil cause play in the rack, mine was almost dry, and what
> would you put in for oil after I fix any leak.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2001 01:31:06 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: update on speedo noise
A previous owner of mechanic probably "fixed" the angle drive by
epoxying the input shaft to the dust cap.
John Yeoman
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> Hmmm... the cable from AD seems to be fused with the cup. I am
trying a
> punch before I break the AD by pulling the cable end out.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxx>
> Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 4:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] update on speedo noise
>
>
> > Another Question...
> > if you turn the LF wheel by hand while it's on jacks can you
normally hear
> > clicks and action from inside angle drive at the start of the
motion? Or
> > should I be working this problem until the AD is completely
silent?
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 20:38:29 -0500
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
Why in the world would you fix this yourself?
The shop should have insurance - get it fixed
right at one of the repair centers.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Donald Ekhoff [mailto:ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2001 7:26 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Problem closing door (warped???)
Not that this will help, but I have the same problem exactly. Problem is
that I know why. I had the car worked on and the door was left open while
the car was elevated in a lift. The door was compressed at the forward edge
(the corner was curled) and when I went to pick it up the entire door was
about two inches out of true with the body work.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2001 22:02:15 -0400
From: "Andrei Cular" <acular1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: convex side mirrors on eBay
I saw Walters new mirror and it looks great. If he didn't say that he cut
it him self I would have never known. With the new mirror at least you can
see the SUV before it runs over you.
Andrei
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 2:09 PM
Subject: [DML] convex side mirrors on eBay
> I have never sold anything on eBay before, but thought I would auction my
> last two passenger convex mirrors as a marketing experiment.
>
> These are item #'s 596167779 & 596168034
> So far one is going for $4.55 and the other for a whopping $10.55. Keep
in
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