Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Re: Sunstar's 1/18 DeLorean Model
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Fascias
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Highest price for Stainless Steel Illusion?
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. AW: Speedo
From: klaus-peter.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Re: Sunstar's 1/18 DeLorean Model
From: "Steven Lawrence" <vipertv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Car Shows
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Highest price for Stainless Steel Illusion?
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Finally got #2196 running!
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Car Shows
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: Overflowing with Antifreeze
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: Highest price for Stainless Steel Illusion?
From: Aldo Buono <dmc1440@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Car Shows
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Gratitude followed by fuel fileter question
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: how do you take the driver's door apart - fix window
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: uninvited "guests" (was Car Shows)
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
16. Re: Re: Fascias
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Overflowing with Antifreeze
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
18. Re: Car Shows (doors)
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. "Legand" Turbo on Ebay
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
20. Re: Dies at stoplights
From: "Ben" <tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Speedo
From: "Ben" <tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Windowswitches (was Rear de-mister switch)
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
23. Re: Gratitude followed by fuel fileter question
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
24. stainless steel polish
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Door Panel Removal
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 19:48:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Sunstar's 1/18 DeLorean Model
i ordered one right after seeing the post on the DML. when i got my confirmation e-mail it said that i should recieve my order within 7-10 business days. so, i guess it must be availible, even though the last i heard it wasn't going to be available until mid september. i'll let you guys know more if i hear about it, and post my impression of the car when i get it. later! -Louie
_____________________________________________________________
Visit the De Lorean Motor Company web site at http://www.delorean.com to register for our Open House to be held August 10-12, 2001 in Houston, Texas! Don't miss it!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 22:08:24 -0400
From: Jack The Stripper <motti@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Fascias
What is the URL for the site with the DeLorean crash test vid?
Thanks,
Joe
srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> I tried posting before to correct a misunderstanding from my post
> regarding the SS fascia's so I'll try again with a short and sweet
> post: The 30 MPH test I was refering to is the actual DOT standard
> that car manufactures have to test with (crash test). The actual
> bumpers themselves should tolerate a 5 MPH bump without any major
> damage to any parts of the car.
>
> Steve
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, delorean502@xxxx wrote:
> > Has anyone seen the crash test videos? Go to Tamirs site and look
> at
> > them. There is a video of a delorean getting smashed into a wall
> at
> > 30MPH and 40 MPH. Let me just say....there was a little bit of
> > damage. Check it out for yourself.
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 09:40:17 +0200
From: "M.C. de Bruin" <debruin@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Highest price for Stainless Steel Illusion?
Try Barnes & Nobel(http://www.bn.com). Check their 'out of print' section.
There's a fisrt edition that sells for $337.50!!
Mads
Netherlands
#06881
"H. Walter Coe" wrote:
> Has anyone been keeping track of what an excellent copy of SSI is worth?
> There is currently one on eBay for $192.50. I think this is the highest I
> have ever seen one go for. Sheesh! Is there any progress made on getting
> the publisher to make new copies?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 10:34:31 +0200
From: klaus-peter.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: AW: Speedo
Hi Paul,
this is the lambda-counter, it activates the lambda-light in the
dashboard every 30000 miles to remind you to change or test the lambda-sond
(then you have to reset the counter). If you have no catalytic converter,
you don`t need it.
I have some custom made one-piece speedo-cables in stock, they
connect the speedo angle drive direct to the speedometer without connecting
the lambda-counter. If you are interested please mail me direct for more
information.
Klaus Steiner
VIN#5980
Germany
>Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 19:20:33 +0100
>From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Speedo
>Hi all
>Whilst moving on with the restoration of my car. the speedo comes
next, Instead of a straight cable to the wheels , half way is yellow/White
box showing % of life used on a counter. What exactly is it and is it really
needed as the wires leading out are snapped and will take some real work to
fix ( I Can do this though).
>The next thing is the speedo cable from hear to the wheel is
totally missing. What part do I nedd ie part number would help
>Cheers
>Paul
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 05:35:30 -0700
From: "Steven Lawrence" <vipertv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Sunstar's 1/18 DeLorean Model
>Does anyone know if this is available yet? I didn't see anything on
>their site saying it wasn't.
Hello all,
Well, I just filled out the purchase form for this SunStar model using
Exoticar's purchase form. It said that the productshould be at my home
within 7-10 business days. I'll keep everyone posted if I receive the
order, or if Exoicar does not have the item available yet...
Steven Lawrence
vipertv@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Biloxi, MS
VIN# - Not Yet!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 08:26:32 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Car Shows
I had a kid jump in my car and start climbing around like it was a
jungle gym.. When I asked the kid to get out, his father started to
yell at me!!
Gary Masie had a decent solution to this problem. He has nets (like
cargo nets) that he puts across the doorways with bungee cords. It's an
idea that I have been considering copying, but I have not been to many
shows this year anyway.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Rowe [mailto:rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 8:46 PM
To: DeLorean News
Subject: [DML] Car Shows
I got a question for everyone. After a year of ownership I
finally started taking my car to car shows.
I've only been to 3 so far, 2 were actual car shows themselves and one
was a car show at street festival
type event so there was a lot of people there not just for the car show.
My problem/questiom is since one
of the unique things about the car is the doors abviously so I leave
them up but what I found is that people
are not that respectful about cars when your at a festival and not just
a car show itself. I had 3 people help
themselves to sit inside my car even with the Please Look but Don't
Touch sign in the window. I'm not sure
if I want to take it to another event like that or not. So my question
is has anyone else had this happen and
would it be considered "rude" or "stuck up" or something like that if I
was to maybe put something like
yellow caution tape across the door opening to try and keep people out
or what? Does anyone else do anything
like this?
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 14:34:26 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Highest price for Stainless Steel Illusion?
In the UK they regularly sell for £160 or about $230...(mint one's).
Chris P
----- Original Message -----
From: <georad@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 12:12 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Highest price for Stainless Steel Illusion?
> I just bought Stainless Steel Illusion from Amazon Z-shops for
> $170.00. The book is in good shape, but the pages have yellowed
> a bit. Was pleased with content, understand now why everyone says
> it is a must have book.
>
> George
> vin #2196, now running! (barely)
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 07:45:11 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Finally got #2196 running!
George, The control plunger may be sticking due to varnish. Look at my site
under fuel systems and see if it will help.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/fuelsystems.shtml
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 13:59:54 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Car Shows
The Delorean is oe of the FEW cars that is displayed with the doors
OPEN! As such some people think it is an invitation to "climb in". In
general if it is a "car show" then most people know the rules and will
respect your car and at least not get in although I find that most
(even at fancy car shows) can't resist touching the stainless. I have
seen some owners use a cargo net over the openings to keep people out.
I got a stuffed dog (Einstein) from Universal and I put it on the
seat. The kids get a kick out of it and sometimes a real dog tries to
play with it and sniffs to see if it's real. The only trouble I have
is once a kid took Einnie in a bear hug like he wasn't ever going to
let it go and started walking off with it till the parents had him
return it. I also take some precautions like removing all loose items
including the lighter and either put in the bonnet or vault. At the
sping door adjustment a souvenier hunter removed one owner's gearshift
knob! I always watch people walking around the car because some
people's pants have rivets or studs and won't even realize they are
scratching the car. (Watch out for rings on their fingers too.) I also
keep people away with food and drink. If asked politely I usually
allow people to sit in the car (children too if parents are around). I
like to sit near the car to keep an eye on it and to hear the
"experts" as they walk up to it explaining it to others. You don't
hear the same comments when they realize the owner is there! I had a
signboard made up to answer the simple questions about the engine and
such but alot of people just ask anyway. I guess it is just a way for
them to strike up a conversation. I feel that as an owner of a
Delorean I have an obligation to try to educate people and correct the
common misperceptions that the general public has in regard to the car
and especialy Mr. Delorean. I try to go to as many cruise nights and
local car shows as I can to share the car with the public as
practical. It is a way to share the car with others without letting
them drive it!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I got a question for everyone. After a year of ownership
I finally started taking my car to car shows.
> I've only been to 3 so far, 2 were actual car shows themselves and
one was a car show at street festival
> type event so there was a lot of people there not just for the car
show. My problem/questiom is since one
> of the unique things about the car is the doors abviously so I leave
them up but what I found is that people
> are not that respectful about cars when your at a festival and not
just a car show itself. I had 3 people help
> themselves to sit inside my car even with the Please Look but Don't
Touch sign in the window. I'm not sure
> if I want to take it to another event like that or not. So my
question is has anyone else had this happen and
> would it be considered "rude" or "stuck up" or something like that
if I was to maybe put something like
> yellow caution tape across the door opening to try and keep people
out or what? Does anyone else do anything
> like this?
>
> On a side note, I was surprised to see another DeLorean at
my last car show. It was a Dec. '81 build (2 months
> after mine) but the VIN number was 10403. Mine is 05903. Would this
other one be a Canadian Model or what?
> Why the large difference in VIN's? I asked the guy if he was on the
list but he said he wasn't so I tried to encourage
> him to join. He might be on here by now.
>
> Jason
#5903
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 10:37:51 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Overflowing with Antifreeze
Mike Allred wrote:
> Today while driving my D. it was about 92 degrees and my temperature gauge
> never showed hot but when I stopped and cut off the engine it was over
> flowing antifreeze through the overflow hose. The radiator fan never cut on.
>
> Where do you think my problem is? Temperature gauge, fan, temperature
> sending unit or other?
Because your temp gage never got high I will assume this is not an electrical
problem. This is a plumbing problem.
Several things could cause these symptoms, but if you are lucky it is just air
in your cooling system and/or low coolant. Top off your coolant, then bleed
your system or install a self-bleeder.
The second most lucky thing it could be is a bad radiator cap. Considering the
age of our car, I expect bad radiator caps to start coming up more often in the
coming years.
Liquid cooled engines use pressure to keep coolant in liquid form even when they
are heated above their boiling point. They operate in a very specific
pressure/temperature range. The systems use spring-loaded radiator caps
designed to release coolant if the pressure gets too high. Coolant is released
through that overflow hose. Because it is hotter than its boiling point,
coolant released by a radiator cap boils the instant it hit the atmosphere.
Over time a radiator cap spring and seal will wear out. When they do, the cap
can release steaming coolant from an engine that is operating normally. Tjis
might be exactly what happened to you.
You can test your radiator cap with the same pressure tester you use to bleed
your cooling system. If you do not have a pressure tester, just inspect the cap
visually. You might get lucky and find the cap is worn out and there is nothing
else wrong with your DeLorean.
Either way, DO NOT drive a DeLorean with an overheated engine!
- Mike Substelny
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 11:04:02 -0400
From: Aldo Buono <dmc1440@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Highest price for Stainless Steel Illusion?
I will have a copy for sale for $250 at the Products Fair at Run 11 -- De
Lorean Cruise-In in Gainesville, Georgia, on Saturday, September 15, 2001.
My copy has the dust jacket and the book is in pristine condition.
Also, I will have a variety of other De Lorianna for sale.
Stop by and say hello.
Run 11 is this year's regional convention of De Lorean owners.
Yes, you are all invited!!!!!!!!
For full details on Run 11, visit: http://dmc.tv/
--
Aldo Buono, Past President, De Lorean Midatlantic, Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania
dmc1440 at earthlink.net/ VIN 1440 since 1984
eFax and eVoice Mail: 503-212-5802
Visit: http://clubs.hemmings.com/deloreanmidatlantic/
Eastern Regional Run 11, Gainesville, Georgia, September 15-16, 2001.
Eastern Regional Run 12, Memphis, Tennessee, June 13-16, 2002.
"If you are going to build a time machine into a car,
why not do it with some style!"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 10:44:13 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Shows
Speaking of car shows... I took my D to "British Car Day" here in Brookline,
MA last weekend. Among the common mis-conceptions about the car, I heard
one I hadn't heard before, and I was curious if anyone heard this one:
One guy was absolutely convinced that the D had two batteries, and when
the cars came out, that the battery that *powered* the doors going up and
down was constantly going dead, since everyone was constantly making their
doors go up and down. It took me a few minutes to convince him that the car
has only one battery, and the doors are NOT powered. I showed him how the
doors work (mechanically, etc), and he still was in doubt that I was telling
him the truth. He was constantly saying "Are you sure?" Yeah, I'm sure.
-Hank #1619
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 11:35:38 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gratitude followed by fuel fileter question
Thanks to John Hervey and his website. My fan problem turned out to be
simple ingorance. I thought the fans were activated when the blower was
switched on... Au contrair. The AC compressor override was the one part I
missed. Everything works just fine.
Now the question. The Workshop manual does a terrible job of describing the
location of the fuel filter. Can anyone give me its specific location? Is
there anything I should know before replacing it.
Thanks
Travis
VIN 3512
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 11:42:30 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: how do you take the driver's door apart - fix window
This is a tough one. I wouldn't do it without the workshop manual, but here
goes nothing... I did it just this past weekend to repair the window. Once
you remove the trim panels, you can access everything. If you roll the
window down, it will help, but it's not necessary. On the top trim panel,
start on the edge and pull the trim up. There are about 8 nylon tree rivets
that are holding it in place. A long screwdriver would help too. The whole
trim panel should lift up and out of the way. For the bottom trim you need
the longest magnetic phillips head scewdriver you can find (18" would be
good). Unscrew all the screws holding it down and pop the tree rivets loose
at the bottom. Now, pull the panel away from the door far enough to access
the handle screws (one on each side). Using your long screwdriver, unscrew
them and the panel will fall free. Once both of the trim panels are off, you
can see the window mechanism to remove it.
> Message: 19
> Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 09:00:37 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Doug Hornsby <govenorofvirginia@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: how do you take the driver's door apart - fix window
>
> Is there a place where I can find out how to take the
> driver's door apart and replace the toll booth window
> mechanism. I have the part but do not want to start
> without some advice. Thanks.
> -=DH=-
> vin 2912
>
> __________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 12:19:39 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: uninvited "guests" (was Car Shows)
In a message dated 8/5/01 1:09:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> I had 3 people help themselves
> > to sit inside my car even with the Please Look but
> > Don't Touch sign in the window.
>
>
I've seen a cargo net used to web off the whole door. The elastic kind with
hook ends, like you'd use to contain an odd shaped cargo on a roof carrier.
Looked better than it sounds.
-Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 12:40:09 -0500
From: "skipper landry" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Fascias
here you go!
http://www.entermyworld.com/dsontv/index.html
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 18:29:47 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Overflowing with Antifreeze
Although it could be a bad radiater pressure cap a more likely cause
is a small leak. After several heating and cooling cycles you will
lose enough coolant to trap air in the water pump and then it stops
circulating coolant with the engine temp then climbing rapidly. You
MUST pressure test the system to 15 psi for 15 minutes minimum. Even
if you don't see any leaks if it can't hold pressure you must fix the
source of the pressure loss. If the leak is on top of the engine you
won't see the coolant comming out! It is very possible that you are
still using the ORIGIONAL hoses and seals under the intake manifold
and they are 20 YEARS OLD! If you want a reliable colling system the
only fix is to replace ALL of the hoses and seals and belts and water
pump. While you are at it idler bearings, thermostat and gasket,
bleeder screw, otterstadt and seal, upgraded cooling fan circuit
breaker and metal header bottle. If you can afford it a Fanzilla is
also a must do item.( At the VERY least get rid of the fan fail
relay!) Most of the Delorean venders sell what they call a Master kit
with just about all of these items including silicone hoses and better
hose clamps. Depending on your skill level and finances this is not an
area of the car to skimp on. If any part of the cooling system fails
the car overheats.( The chain only as strong as the weakest link
scenario.) In summer heat with the A/C on the cooling system is
working it's hardest and that's the time neglected systems have
problems. Refill with 50/50 mix of soft water and a national brand of
anti-freeze, bleed thoughly at the water pump and the radiater and you
should be OK for a long time. Test the radiater cap with the pressure
tester too. When you check the oil in the motor always put your
fingers around the hose going to the water pump to see if the belt is
cutting a groove into it on the bottom (where you can't see). If it is
just bend the support bracket a little to keep the hose away.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxx> wrote:
> Mike Allred wrote:
>
> > Today while driving my D. it was about 92 degrees and my
temperature gauge
> > never showed hot but when I stopped and cut off the engine it was
over
> > flowing antifreeze through the overflow hose. The radiator fan
never cut on.
> >
> > Where do you think my problem is? Temperature gauge, fan,
temperature
> > sending unit or other?
>
> Because your temp gage never got high I will assume this is not an
electrical
> problem. This is a plumbing problem.
>
> Several things could cause these symptoms, but if you are lucky it
is just air
> in your cooling system and/or low coolant. Top off your coolant,
then bleed
> your system or install a self-bleeder.
>
> The second most lucky thing it could be is a bad radiator cap.
Considering the
> age of our car, I expect bad radiator caps to start coming up more
often in the
> coming years.
>
> Liquid cooled engines use pressure to keep coolant in liquid form
even when they
> are heated above their boiling point. They operate in a very
specific
> pressure/temperature range. The systems use spring-loaded radiator
caps
> designed to release coolant if the pressure gets too high. Coolant
is released
> through that overflow hose. Because it is hotter than its boiling
point,
> coolant released by a radiator cap boils the instant it hit the
atmosphere.
>
> Over time a radiator cap spring and seal will wear out. When they
do, the cap
> can release steaming coolant from an engine that is operating
normally. Tjis
> might be exactly what happened to you.
>
> You can test your radiator cap with the same pressure tester you use
to bleed
> your cooling system. If you do not have a pressure tester, just
inspect the cap
> visually. You might get lucky and find the cap is worn out and
there is nothing
> else wrong with your DeLorean.
>
> Either way, DO NOT drive a DeLorean with an overheated engine!
>
> - Mike Substelny
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 13:07:29 -0600
From: "Randy Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car Shows (doors)
I think this guy has the DeLorean confused with a Bricklin. Bricklin doors
are either battery powered or air powered. Just push a button and they
open. But if you're battery fails or air runs out, try opening a 40lb
gullwing door from the inside of a car. Talk about breaking your back.
Randy
Vin #16353
>Speaking of car shows... I took my D to "British Car Day" here in
>Brookline,
>MA last weekend. Among the common mis-conceptions about the car, I heard
>one I hadn't heard before, and I was curious if anyone heard this one:
>
> One guy was absolutely convinced that the D had two batteries, and
>when
>the cars came out, that the battery that *powered* the doors going up and
>down was constantly going dead, since everyone was constantly making their
>doors go up and down. It took me a few minutes to convince him that the
>car
>has only one battery, and the doors are NOT powered. I showed him how the
>doors work (mechanically, etc), and he still was in doubt that I was
>telling
>him the truth. He was constantly saying "Are you sure?" Yeah, I'm sure.
>
>-Hank #1619
>
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 19:53:16 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: "Legand" Turbo on Ebay
I uploaded pics of the "Legend" turbo on ebay to the VAULT. I
emailed the seller for these pics. I have no part in this auction,
and I don't know anything about the car, I just asked for the pics.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/%22Legend%22%20Twin%
20turbo%20on%20ebay/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 19:52:46 -0000
From: "Ben" <tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dies at stoplights
I put a Die Hard Gold in my D. It has more power than the Interstate
that was in it. It costs about $80, has a 3-year FULL
replacement/100 month pro-rated replacement warranty. Never any
problems with it.
Ben Boatright
VIN 10115
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> Your problem is more than likely related to a problem in the
constant idle speed circuit.
>
> Concerning your battery; any standard size name brand battery that
will fit in the battery compartment with side mounted connector posts
should give satisfactory performance.
>
> DMC Joe
> www.dmc.tv
> "We're here to help you"
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxx>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dmczr1
> To: dmcnews@xxxx
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 10:33 AM
> Subject: [DML] Dies at stoplights
>
>
> #10901 has developed an idling problem this last month. When I
put in the
> clutch and roll to a stop, the idle drops and the motor dies.
> I remember the old carburated cars had a solenoid next to the
carburator
> that would hold the idle high for a couple of seconds when the
throtle was
> closed, is there something like this on a fuel injected system
that should
> be holding the idle up for a couple of seconds when the gas pedal
is
> released?
>
> Also, it looks like the battery has bit the dust, guess I'll be
going to
> look for a new one today, any recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Janney
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 19:56:06 -0000
From: "Ben" <tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Speedo
That's the Lambda counter. When it hits 100, the light will come on,
and you have to reset it. Also, it appears taht 100 happens at
around 30K miles (?). The wiring is not required (if you don't care
about the Lamba light).
Ben Boatright
tahoe98@xxxxxxxxx
VIN 10115
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all
>
> Whilst moving on with the restoration of my car. the speedo comes
next, Instead of a straight cable to the wheels , half way is
yellow/White box showing % of life used on a counter. What exactly is
it and is it really needed as the wires leading out are snapped and
will take some real work to fix ( I Can do this though).
>
> The next thing is the speedo cable from hear to the wheel is
totally missing. What part do I nedd ie part number would help
>
> Cheers
> Paul
>
> VIN 6463
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 20:14:16 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Windowswitches (was Rear de-mister switch)
Hi all,
I am sure I read somewhere that the window switches were commonly
used in 1982/83 Saabs and Peugeot cars, whether this is true or not I
don't know.
Also is it also true that the Renault 30 automatic transmition
computer governor is the same as the DeLorean governor?
James RG
England
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 20:20:47 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Gratitude followed by fuel fileter question
The fuel filter is located under the car on the drivers side right
near the rear wheel. If you go under the car (from under the door
area) and work your way back you'll see it just behind and up from
the rear driver side wheel (right next to the crossover exhaust pipe)
I took a picture of where it will be and posted it in the Files
section, I hope it's clear enough:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/Bosch%20fuel%20filter/.
I named it Location.jpg. In case the link dosn't work, go to the
files section and look for Bosch fuel filter.
Just one word of Caution....if you use the Bosch Fuel filter...DO NOT
OVER TIGHTEN IT....you'll cut off/restrict the flow of the fuel and
you will have a no start problem resulting from it. The trick is to
use some Teflon tape (I got the yellow kind that is fuel resistive
from Home Depot but the regular white one should suffice). Use
something small enough to fit into the "input side" of the new fuel
filter to measure how far in that black bubble is. Then mark off for
reference on the threaded nipple (black permanent ink marker) so you
don't go that far in. Thread it on by hand just a little and Tighten
down the top banjo fitting to torque spec. Run the fuel pump (don't
start the car). Check for leaks...if there is a leak then tighten it
a little by hand until it doesn't leak. You may need to loosen
the
Banjo fitting when turning the filter to tighten it. Once you have it
where it's not leaking then try starting her up. If your D has a hard
time starting (and it didn't before) you may have tightened it to
much and the threaded nipple on the input side of the filter may be
pressing against or is to close to that black bubble restricting fuel
flow. I'm using the Purolator filter that doesn't have that black
bubble in it and you don't have to worry about over tightening it.
You can check out the pictures (and part number of the Purolator
filter) on the Files page:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/Bosch%20fuel%20filter
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks to John Hervey and his website. My fan problem turned out to
be
> simple ingorance. I thought the fans were activated when the blower
was
> switched on... Au contrair. The AC compressor override was the one
part I
> missed. Everything works just fine.
>
> Now the question. The Workshop manual does a terrible job of
describing the
> location of the fuel filter. Can anyone give me its specific
location? Is
> there anything I should know before replacing it.
>
> Thanks
>
> Travis
> VIN 3512
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 20:39:39
From: "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: stainless steel polish
Hello list,
I was wondering if any one was interested in going in on a case of Stainless
steel polish.
I can get a case of 12 cans of the CHEMSEARCH GLO-SS PLUS 11oz. can
same as DMC in Houston:
A4000162 SS POLISH (GLOW) 1 $27.50
That is their price,
If 10 people are interested I figure for 1 can it would be $20.00 including
the shipping.
If anyone is interested Please let me know.
(Why 10 people, I am going to keep 2 cans for my self)
Thanks soo much. If you have any questions please let me know!!
Ryan- vin.#16301
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 14:13:40 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door Panel Removal
Darryl Tinnerstet wrote the definitive text on door panel removal.
Check it out in the DMC Tech section on the the DML page.
________________________________________________________________________
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