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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. [humor] Where/when is my car?
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
2. RE: Do regulators/solenoids at same time?
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Delorean Autobiography Auction...
From: "Jesse D. Sightler" <jsight@xxxxxxxx>
4. Re: signal bulbs and fan motor
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
5. Re:Was discharge rate for stored battery- Now Battery Care
From: turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. Re: Do regulators/solenoids at same time?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. Re:Now Battery Care
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re:Now Battery Care
From: turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. would like to borrow a fuel pressure tester and/or CPR
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
10. spring / summer meets and get to gethers
From: "Drinkware" <marvin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. It started easy enough...
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Do regulators/solenoids at same time?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
13. Re: would like to borrow a fuel pressure tester and/or CPR
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
14. Re: spring / summer meets and get to gethers
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: would like to borrow a fuel pressure tester and/or CPR
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. RE: chassis frames
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. ANNOUNCEMENT DMCNews and DMCTech
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 17:28:10 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [humor] Where/when is my car?
I lost my DeLorean in a parking lot today. You would think that a DeLorean
would be hard to loose. (Once a guy suggested that I just forget about
parking it and instead keep it in my back pocket.) Anyway, I couldn't find
where I parked my car. Then remembering that it is a time machine, it isn't
WHERE the car is but WHEN it is. So I turn around and check where I had
already looked, and there it was peeking around the side of a large SUV with
it's nose close to the ground just like a puppy playing hide & seek.
Someone today asked me if I keep the car garage kept considering how great
it looks. My answer for him was that it's a time machine. When no one sees
it, it just keeps hyper-jumping through time while a resident subroutine
searches for human consciousness. When sensed, the car re-appears in the
flash of an eye. So why did the subroutine previously not work? Well, it
looks for HUMAN CONSCIOUSNESS. I don't always qualify for both at any given
moment. I think it's a trait acquired from stray flux dispersal from being
inside the car too much. Sometimes the car hyper-jumps forward in time
while I am still in it. That explains how I sometimes don't remember
driving it home or even waking up in the car the next morning and wondering
where I was all night.
I even did an experiment to confirm this. Once I accidentally left my
lights on for a really long time. When I got back, the car started just
fine as though it had only been sitting for a few minutes. Warning: don't
try this yourself without a set of jumper cables handy.
I've pretty much figured out what is going on now. A future owner
retro-fitted my car with a time machine option (TMO). He is making sure
that my car will be in like new condition when he gets it. So that is the
reason my car keeps hyper-jumping into the future. Well, I got news for
this future owner. He's going to have to wait a long time 'cuz I'm not
through owning it yet.
Yep, I'm weird, but so is my car. (I think I've said too much.)
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 22:53:48 -0700
From: "Fernando Dillard" <fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Do regulators/solenoids at same time?
Nick,
Just curious, what are the symptoms you are seeing in your window operation
that determined you need to replace the regulators?
I'm wondering if mine are shot also.
Thanks,
Fernando Dillard
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: 4/4/01 7:40:32 AM
Subject: [DML] Do regulators/solenoids at
same time?
I'm about to have the window regulators replaced in my car, and
obviously it
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 08:28:41 -0000
From: "Jesse D. Sightler" <jsight@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Autobiography Auction...
This auction has only received 7 page views due to a problem with
Yahoo! Auction Search so I thought that I would mention it here.
http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/50431038
-----
Jess
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 11:55:36 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: signal bulbs and fan motor
If your DeLorean is equipped with the factory blower circuit breaker replace
it with the upgraded 30 amp breaker, part #106085G $8.60.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Payne <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: [DML] signal bulbs and fan motor
>
> Also, my interior fan motor cuts out from time to time. It will work fine
> at first but after a while will only work in short irregular bursts. It's
> not noisy or exceptionally weak. Has anyone else experienced this
problem?
>
> I'd appreciate any help anyone may have!
>
> Brandon
> VIN 2975
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 14:58:45 -0000
From: turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Was discharge rate for stored battery- Now Battery Care
Never store on concrete-put it on a
piece of wood. (I don't know why but it will discharge faster if left
directly on concrete.)
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
This is not an urban legend; it is true even though it seams to defy
basic laws of electric/chemistry.
Most batteries are in the engine compartment thus they get dirty. The
dirt on the battery forms a conductive path (it is a very high
resistance thus it is small but a conductive path all the same). The
concrete is also somewhat conductive so by putting the battery on a
conductor you are exacerbating this problem. If the battery is clean
(as David recommends) then putting it on a piece of wood (and
insulator) is really not critical. For those of you who enjoy useless
and trivial information I hope that helps.
One of the best things I have found for car / battery storage is a
float charger. They run from $10 to $50 and they keep the battery
toped off at all times (without cooking it) which will give you the
longest battery life. It also will cover the ma amp draw that the
batter has from clocks, alarm systems etc and has the added advantage
of keeping the memory on your radio, clock and computer.
Regards,
Mike D.
Vin 3113
NY
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 11:57:33 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Do regulators/solenoids at same time?
Nick,
The most labor intensive procedure required to replace the lock solenoids is
the removal and replacement of the lower door panel. The lock solenoid's
install with just two screws and one power connector. Be aware that if the
lock solenoid activation system requires an alignment you might wish you had
a professionals do the job.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <nbrommer@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 2:55 AM
Subject: [DML] Do regulators/solenoids at same time?
> I'm about to have the window regulators replaced in my car, and
> obviously it would be easiest to replace the lock solenoids at the
> same time. But, how much more labor intensive is it to wait to do the
> doors at a later time? And, are the solenoids something I should have
> a professional do?
>
> Nick
> VIN 3092
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 18:37:07 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:Now Battery Care
A caution is in order for the following. At a tech seminar I attended
a few years back, Stephen Wynne indicated that they have began to see
cars that had signs of aluminum deterioration in the engine block due
to electrolytic action. This was caused by leaving the battery in
the car, CONNECTED to the car, with a float charger attached. The
solution to this is simply to disconnect BOTH battery leads when
float-charging the battery in the car, or remove it entirely.
What is supposedly going on is that incidental electrical current
flow was causing aluminum to migrate from the engine to the radiator,
to the detriment of both. The indication was aluminum gunk in the
radiator and a thinning of the engine block and cooling tubes.
Not confirmed from any other source, but it seemed logical to me at
the time.
ALSO - note that you want a battery TENDER (aka battery buddy, etc.) not a float charger. Based on the price range given, that is probably what the author meant. The difference is that the tender-type of device actually cycles on and off, whereas the float/trickle charger keeps a constant current flow to the battery. The constant current flow is not as healthy for the battery. The difference in cost between the two is slight.
Dave Swingle
>
> One of the best things I have found for car / battery storage is a
> float charger. They run from $10 to $50 and they keep the battery
> toped off at all times (without cooking it) which will give you the
> longest battery life. It also will cover the ma amp draw that the
> batter has from clocks, alarm systems etc and has the added
advantage
> of keeping the memory on your radio, clock and computer.
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 20:11:05 -0000
From: turbodmc@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re:Now Battery Care
I'm the original author so I'll clarify this.
A Float charger is not a Trickle charger.
A trickle charger will eventually over charge a battery thus it
should not be left on indefinitely.
The float charger only tops off a battery and can be left on
indefinitely. A Float charger is not a good choice for charging a
dead battery.
Float chargers are available for as little as $10 or $15 dollars, the
more expensive ones have short circuit protection and some other
bells and whistles I'm sure.
I use the low-end $15 float chargers and you do have to be careful
of two things with the low cost float chargers.
1. If you draw too much current when the Float charger is on (like
leaving the key in the on position when your DeLorean is in storage
(the dash lights draw a lot of current) you will burn out the float
charger because they are only meant to put out about 50-100 ma max.
After you burn out the cheap float charger then you kill the battery
next. So don't leave the keys in the ignition its bad practice.
Don't ask me how I know this!
2. The low cost float chargers have one other draw back and that is,
if you loose ac power, the car battery now acts as the power source
and back feeds the charger slowly discharging the car battery.
If you just add a diode to prevent this it will throw off the output
voltage by 0.6vdc so you would have to re-calibrate the unit to put
out the right voltage (a float charger is a constant voltage device
not constant current device like many tritional battery chargers).
The general thumb rule for charging a battery is 10% of the ampere
hour (AH) rating is an acceptable charge rate thus a typical car
battery with an 80 AH rating can be charged at a maximum of 8 Amps
safely.
Don't confuse this with the CCA rating on the battery!
Trickle chargers usually have a maximum charge rate of 1 to 2 amps
thus they don't charge the battery too quickly, slower charging is a
preferred method if time is not a factor.
Note: A trickle charger can over charge the battery if it is left on
after the battery is fully charged!
I have heard about electrolysis of the engine and am not sure how
much of a problem it is.
I think I heard Ferrari's have a sacrificial anode that is built into
the engine to prevent this and is even on the maintenance schedule to
be replaced at some interval. If some one knows about this I would
love to know the details.
If you are worried about electrolysis disconnect the battery and keep
a float charger on the battery while it is being stored, this will
give you the best battery life and keep a full charge on it at all
times.
Regard,
Mike D.
> ALSO - note that you want a battery TENDER (aka battery buddy,
etc.) not a float charger. Based on the price range given, that is
probably what the author meant. The difference is that the
tender-type
of device actually cycles on and off, whereas the float/trickle
charger keeps a constant current flow to the battery. The constant
current flow is not as healthy for the battery. The difference in
cost
between the two is slight.
>
>
> Dave Swingle
>
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 17:08:49 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: would like to borrow a fuel pressure tester and/or CPR
Hey all,
i'm going out on a limb here asking you all for a big favor.
my car still will not run correctly and i've done every test that i can do on
various components of the fuel injection system (i've determined my problem
is more than likely fuel delivery) without needing the proper tools. well
now i'm at the point where i NEED to have the right stuff to go any further.
i will not let another service station 'work' on my car. they just ring up
labor hours only to tell me a few days later that they don't know how to fix
it.
what i need to go further is a K-Jetronic fuel pressure tester with the
correct fittings to make accurate readings at various points on the fuel
lines. a regular tester will not work because it lacks the proper Bosch-type
fittings to go in-line with the hoses. i've looked EVERYWHERE in Fargo ND
and i cannot find a store that carries this kit. Supposedly JC Whitney
carries it for $50 but i cannot find it on their site and they have not
responded to emails. so now, what i ask is for another DML'er to consider
letting me borrow their own kit. if you ship it to me, i will use it for a
couple of days (hopefully that's as long as i will need it!) and then i would
ship it back, along with a check to cover your shipping charges and a little
extra for your kindness. would anyone on here be willing to help me out?
hopefully i've created a recognizable presence on the DML and you know you
can trust me not to take it and run! this would be foolish because i could
never show my face on the DML again! my car would be forever doomed. LOL!!
along the same lines, i would like to rule out my control pressure
regulator's mechanics. these are sinfully expensive and i cringe when i
think about buying one and the car STILL not running afterward! would anyone
like to loan me a fully functional CPR?
thanks for your time, and i hope a couple kind souls will reply to this. i'm
getting desperate here! please reply via private email.
Later,
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 17:08:17 -0400
From: "Drinkware" <marvin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: spring / summer meets and get to gethers
Is anyone keeping a list of all the locations for DeLorean show and shines this spring and summer? I want to make sure June 15 -17 weekend is noted for London, Ontario, Canada. Reasonably priced rooms are available, cruise, display in the park, dinner, live music / dancing, no cost hot-rod show, (over 200 + cars on Sunday), no registration fee or forms to fill out. Just email "YES" before May 31.
COME AND VISIT YOUR NORTHERN NEIGHBOUR, EH! ($1.00 USA = + - $1.50 CDN)
-------- THERE IS NO SNOW HERE IN JUNE. The weather will be sunny and warm!
Marvin Stein vin # 4239
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
PRINTED DRINKWARE COMPANY
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 18:06:40 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: It started easy enough...
Ok folks, I need some basic assistance. Ever since I bought #1619 last
year, the driver's side plastic air vent (in the door) was broken, and it
was on of the first things I ordered from PJ Grady to fix. Well, 10 months
later, a the first 60 degree day here in Boston, I decide it's time to
replace the vent. OK. I get the door panels off (with a call to DMC Joe).
In the process of trying to remove the mirror switch to get to the handle
bolts, I totally destroy the switch. First question: Does anyone have or
know of a replacement that doesn't cost $60? Second, now that I have
access to the inside door panel and the vent, it seems like the entire thing
is riveted together, and the only way to get the old vent out, and the new
one in is to drill out the existing rivets, separate the confining metal
frame, replace the vent, and then rivet everything back the way it was.
This also seems to entail peeling back the trim, and then gluing it back
when done.
Does anyone have an alternate method for this simple repair, or am I in
need of a new tool (pop riveter)? Everything else in the car seems easy to
disassemble, except this. Help.
Thanks much,
-Hank Eskin
P.S. My "Your First Delorean" page (version 1.0) for DMCTech with photos is
now available at: http://www.eskin.net/firstdelorean.html
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 16:09:09 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Do regulators/solenoids at same time?
In a message dated 4/5/01 2:04:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
fdillard@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Nick,
>
> Just curious, what are the symptoms you are seeing in your window operation
> that determined you need to replace the regulators?
>
> I'm wondering if mine are shot also.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
no one asked me, but i knew mine was shot when the passenger side
CRRAAWWLLEEEDD up the tracks and it sounded lethargic. replaced them with
the new improved ones from PJ Grady, and now they better than new!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 01:27:07 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: would like to borrow a fuel pressure tester and/or CPR
For the tester
JC Whitney: http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=1939
The SKU # for it is 12ZX3617U
$55.95
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey all,
>
<SNIP>
> what i need to go further is a K-Jetronic fuel pressure tester with
the
> correct fittings to make accurate readings at various points on the
fuel
> lines. a regular tester will not work because it lacks the proper
Bosch-type
> fittings to go in-line with the hoses. i've looked EVERYWHERE in
Fargo ND
> and i cannot find a store that carries this kit. Supposedly JC
Whitney
> carries it for $50 but i cannot find it on their site and they have
not
> responded to emails
<SNIP>
> Later,
> Andy
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 18:20:58 -0700
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: spring / summer meets and get to gethers
Marvin,
Check out the DeLorean Owners Association website at
http://delorean-owners.org/events/future.html
Hank Breer
Drinkware wrote:
> Is anyone keeping a list of all the locations for DeLorean show and shines this spring and summer? I want to make sure June 15 -17 weekend is noted for London, Ontario, Canada.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 20:43:02 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: would like to borrow a fuel pressure tester and/or CPR
[MODERATORS NOTE- althought this looks like a duplicate of the prior message, one of the SKU numbers must be in error. Call the company!]
Andy
JC Whitney #12DY3617U
Page 169 of Cat #648J-03
$55.95
Hope this works out for you.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 4:09 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] would like to borrow a fuel pressure tester and/or CPR
Hey all,
what i need to go further is a K-Jetronic fuel pressure tester with the
correct fittings to make accurate readings at various points on the fuel
lines.
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 19:20:53 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: chassis frames
I haven't seen a response to your question yet, so I'll give it a shot - the
only difference I know of between the A/T and manual frames is at the point
where the shifter sits. The 5 speed shifter sits down inside the frame a
couple of inches, and I believe with the A/T frame the shifter sits on top.
I have one frame I got out of a junkyard in CA where someone air-chiseled
out the 5 speed shifter mounting plate - must have been converting an A/T
car to manual, I guess. And ruined a fixable frame in the process.....
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
McCleary, WA
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 20:41:27 -0500
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ANNOUNCEMENT DMCNews and DMCTech
New Relationship between DeLorean Mailing List, DMCTech group, and
WWW.DMCNEWS.COM
There's been a lot of discussion on and off the list regarding the new
DMCTech list, what it should include, how it should operate, whether it
should be a separate entity or not. Some applauded the new site as it
rolled out, others were concerned it would split up interest and possibly
weaken the DML site if tech matters concentrated on DMCTech and ignored the
DML. Others were concerned that if the DMCTech manager lost interest and
closed down the site, the data would be lost. One thing everybody agrees
on- making tech information more detailed, understandable and accessible is
definitely a big need.
Another issue is searchability. The DeLorean Mailing List (DML) and DMCTech
are both Yahoo Groups, and operate similarly, with the same limitations when
it comes to editing, customizing or searching a large database. The site at
http://www.dmcnews.com on the other hand, is a website per se, not just a free
service operated by an internet provider like Yahoo. So it is easier to
search or customize.
To address as many needs and concerns as possible, and make the whole
process more seamless and efficient, DML's Dave Swingle and DMCTech's Wayne
Ernst have worked out an arrangement that we hope will make nearly everybody
happy.
DMCTech will continue to receive, research and compile DeLorean tech info as
a separate but affiliated YahooGroup. DeLorean owners who have tech info to
contribute, or wish to participate in researching the 6 year deep archive,
or are interested in writing new material can sign on at the DMCTech site
at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DMCTech. Owners who have tech questions to
ask should continue to ask them on the DML as usual. Info gathered by the
DMCTech Team of contributors will be posted, after editing, to the DMCNews
site at www.dmcnews.com/techmain.htm in condensed or at least, selective
form. In the case of full length non-copyrighted original tech articles,
these will be posted with a byline giving credit to the author. This way,
you can sign up for only one group, the DML, and have access to everything
that DMCTech produces without signing up for or receiving e-mails from
DMCTech. And the information will be there as long as DMCNews is around,
which we hope will be forever. This means that DMCTech will operate as a
research arm of the DML, and portal to the DMCNews database, the way the DeLorean Owner's List operates.
We are confident that this synergistic arrangement forms the framework to
reach the goals of the DML, DMCTech and DMCNews without compromising the
focus or principles of any of the participants and will result in an
expanded and easy to use tech database for the care, repair and enjoyment of
your DeLorean!
Thanks for your support;
Wayne A. Ernst, DMCTech (email Deloreanernst(AT)aol.com)
-------------------------------------
Short version - Wayne does all the work, sends it to me, and I put it on the website at www.dmcnews.com
Dave Swingle, DMCNews, DML (email webmaster(AT)dmcnews.com)
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