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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Oil Change
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Oil Change
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Oil Change
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
4. Re: Oil Change
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: Oil Change
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Cold engine performance problem
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. first place!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
8. Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
9. Brochure to hand out at car shows
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Need a Quarter Panel!
From: nbrommer@xxxxxxxx
11. Re: Oil Change
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. fuel pump access
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. DeLorean for sale...
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re: do we really need a new tech site?
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: fuel pump access
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
16. More Low Fares to Ireland and DeLorean Eurofest 2001
From: rdh@xxxxxxxx
17. Newbie Manual
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: fuel pump access gasket
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
19. Re: fuel pump access
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
20. Re: fuel pump access
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
21. signal bulbs and fan motor
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Cold engine performance problem
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
23. Re: Was fuel pump access Now Hard Hot Start
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
24. A new DMC owner with a problem
From: floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
25. RE: fuel pump access
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 19:37:01 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Change
New washer with each change or do you use them over?
Les
James Espey wrote:
> Excellent writeup! I used to do one thing differently, and I'm not sure how
> many people actually do this, but it's standard practice at De Lorean Motor
> Company. We use a copper seal washer with the drain plug. Item #11 on page
> 1-1-3 of the parts manual (part #102101).
>
> James Espey
> DeLorean Motor Company
> Houston, Texas
>
> 281/568-9573
> 800/USA-DMC1
> http://www.delorean.com
>
> > From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 12:38:15 -0500
> > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,delorean@xxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Oil Change
> >
> > 4) Put a pan under the oil pan and take out the drain plug. It faces the
> > front of the car so you can't see it unless you get under it. Use the
> > adapter you bought to remove the plug. Once the oil has drained to just a
> > trickle, clean the plug off with a rag and put it back in. Snug, but don't
> > over tighten.
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 22:49:58 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Change
Thanks for the compliment <blushing>....
Yup! I forgot about the crush washer. You CAN get by with reusing it a time
or two since this is a low pressure situation. I actually reused an
aluminum crush washer on another car for 150,000 miles worth of oil
changes. The local dealer claimed they didn't have 'em in stock so I just
skipped it. Never did leak.
But, to be on the safe side it is a good idea to change this.
Mark N
At 05:10 PM 4/1/01 -0500, James Espey wrote:
>Excellent writeup! I used to do one thing differently, and I'm not sure how
>many people actually do this, but it's standard practice at De Lorean Motor
>Company. We use a copper seal washer with the drain plug. Item #11 on page
>1-1-3 of the parts manual (part #102101).
>
>James Espey
>DeLorean Motor Company
>Houston, Texas
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 04:01:25 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oil Change
It is admirable that with your admittidly limited knowledge you want
to maintain and learn on your car. The best advice I can give is to
find another Delorean owner nearby who would be willing to assist.
Short of that many High schools and vocational schools have courses or
maybe even could use your car to teach you and the other students. A
last alternitive would be to take it to a shop with a good reputation
and ask if you could watch. Even for something as simple as your first
oil change it will cost you several times what a shop will charge.
Consider the cost of all of the tools, jacks, jackstands, wrenches,
pans, etc. Of course good tools will last many oil changes so you
should know before you invest if you will get some use out of them.
Working on your own car can be a rewarding experience but have someone
teach you some basics and safe working practices so you can continue
to "have fun". Please dispose of used oil properly. A good starting
point would be to aquire the Workshop manual. Even if you don't
understand it now whoever helps you can use it to work on the car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok...don't blast me for this....This is a whole new thing for me!
> How do you do an oil change on a DMC? I have never done anything
> mechanically to my cars before, and I know some of the basics, like:
>
> you get the car up on ramps
> open the drain plug (where is it on a DMC?)
> drain the oil into a pan and close the plug again
> remove the oil filter (where is it? and what tools do I need for
> Mechanic Skills: Zero! :)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 04:07:43 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oil Change
When I bought my Purflux oil filter from Rob Grady, it had the copper
seal included in the box (taped to the top of the filter). I'm sure
other part vendors do the same, include the copper seal that is...:-)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, James Espey <james@xxxx> wrote:
> Excellent writeup! I used to do one thing differently, and I'm not
sure how
> many people actually do this, but it's standard practice at De
Lorean Motor
> Company. We use a copper seal washer with the drain plug. Item #11
on page
> 1-1-3 of the parts manual (part #102101).
>
> James Espey
> DeLorean Motor Company
> Houston, Texas
>
> 281/568-9573
> 800/USA-DMC1
> http://www.delorean.com
>
> > From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxx>
> > Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxx
> > Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2001 12:38:15 -0500
> > To: dmcnews@xxxx,delorean@xxxx
> > Subject: Re: [DML] Oil Change
> >
> > 4) Put a pan under the oil pan and take out the drain plug. It
faces the
> > front of the car so you can't see it unless you get under it. Use
the
> > adapter you bought to remove the plug. Once the oil has drained
to just a
> > trickle, clean the plug off with a rag and put it back in. Snug,
but don't
> > over tighten.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 08:52:36 -0400
From: "Greg Bell" <gbell@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Change
I hate putting my car on ramps unless absolutely necessary so i took a
plastic 55 gal. drum and cut the bottom out of it, leaving a few inches on
the sides. I use the bottom of the drum to catch the used oil. I can slide
it under the car and drain the oil without using ramps or jacks. I drilled
a hole in the bottom of it and placed a good stopper in it which makes it
easy to transfer the used oil out of this drain pan. I used a 30 gal drum
first and made a mess b/c it will barely hold all the oil from an oil
change, best to use a 55 gallon.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2001 21:39:37 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cold engine performance problem
My D seems to start OK but I have an interesting performance problem. When
I frist start the car it runs fine. After a mile or so it runs very bad
until the engine warms up. Typical examples:
1) At work I crank my car. I drive about a mile or so and come to a stop
sign. It runs fine out of the parking lot but when I get to the stop sign
and RPMs drop, so I can stop, it starts sputtering and may or may not stall
(even if it is out of gear and/or the clutch is depressed). It may or may
not start easily but it will definately run rough. When running like this,
depressing the accelerator usually does nothing until the engine temp rises
some. Once I get it started, I usually have to pull to the side of the road
until I can convince the engine to stay running.
2) When I leave my house, I usually can get to a major road a little quicker
than my stop above. When pulling onto the main road, it may run rough but I
usually get the RPMs up and then it runs fine the rest of the way to work.
Thanks for the assistance.
Ed Garbade (newbie)
VIN 10541
PS - My vote is for a tech site. The sites I have visited so far have
limited info and usually fail to give detailed examples. The usual posts
may identify what needs to be fixed but not how to do it or what the item
looks like (or where it is located). Of course I may not be looking at the
right sites so please feel free to tell me "where to go".
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: We're in the process of seeing if there might be an opportunity to combine resources to better address this need. Dave started doing something similar to this on the DMCNews web site, but with all his responsibilities ran out of steam.]
Special thanks to DMC Joe for the assist with my first test (master and
slave for clutch)!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 23:23:59 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: first place!
Hey all,
this weekend i took part in the Toppers Car Show here in Fargo, ND. i
entered my DeLorean in the class 'original, unrestored' - and i took First
Place! i'm sure there weren't too many other unrestored cars there, but it
was quite an ego boost to win a trophy!
i especially enjoyed showing my car there. for one, it was a good excuse to
clean the car up really good and prove to myself that the car can look DAMN
GOOD when it's all cleaned up well! i even surprised myself by how the car
can look. also, i LOVED having crowds of people smiling as they peeked
inside my car. i enjoyed answering all the questions and they never seemed
to get old (except the guys who thought they knew everything about the car
only to end it by saying, 'yeah, DeLorean could have been really good if he
could just keep his nose out of the cocaine' yeah, ok). also, i even let a
few people take a seat inside the car. there were about 4 teenagers that i
could tell REALLY wanted to get a good look at the interior, so i offered to
let them take a seat and try the doors out. their faces lit up and suddenly
they started asking every question under the sun, which i proudly answered
for them. there were even a couple middle-aged guys who came up to me
saying, 'i'm not sure if this is an appropriate question, but i've always
dreamed of sitting in a DeLorean.... do you think i could just sit in there
for a second??' and of course i let them! a DeLorean is too much fun to be
greedy with!!!!!
anyway, i was very happy to win an award and it was quite encouraging for me
too keep on pluggin' with my DeLorean!
see ya!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 03:49:22 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Gauge
I think the first thing to determine is if it is a fuel or ignition
problem. Get some kind of tester on the ignition circuit, primary or
secondary and see if it stops when the engine quits. This could just
be a problem in the ignition resistor "run" circuit. Refer to M:18:03
in Workshop manual. Check the ignition switch, resistor, and wiring.
You are correct in that it would be helpful to observe the fuel
pressure at the time it stops but we can narrow down the
possibilities. If you believe the ignition to be operating at the time
it stops then hook up a meter or lite and watch the power to the fuel
pump to see if it stops first. If you see the fuel pump stop then go
through the electrical circuit that controls the pump. Since it does
start I think you will find it to be an electrical problem that is at
the root. Check the RPM relay, connections and wiring. A long shot is
that when they did the fuel tank work they kinked the fuel pick-up
hose.(You can never trust anyone's work if when they are done it is
WORSE then when it went in and then they start "guessing" and using
the "shotgun" approach. Diagnose in a logical sequence starting at a
good foundation of known parts or systems. This is what separates the
"mechanics" (read parts replacers) from an automotive technician.
Sometimes they guess lucky but most of the time it is very expensive
for the hapless owners when they replace a lot of good parts until
they accidently replace the faulty part. In some cases the parts were
never bad but in the act of replacing the part and reconnecting the
new part the dirty connection that caused the problem is made better.
Parts replacers take heed! Bad connections are common on a 20 year old
car.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, tucker11199@xxxx wrote:
> Thanks Dave S., David T., and Bruce B for the info
> on a gauge.
> Your right David, maybe the list could help diagnose
> this fuel problem. Well, here goes.
> Tucker
> 16940
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 03:40:26 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brochure to hand out at car shows
I have converted the brochure that I created to an Adobe Acrobat format and
placed it in the Vault/Files area. The brochure, plus a few quick download
files (so you can see what it basically looks like without waiting to
download it) are in a new folder called “tri-fold” (
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/tri-fold/).
Enjoy!
Michael C. Babb
MCSE, MCT, MCP-I, CNA, CCNA, Network+, I-Net+
mailto:Michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
home: 919.303.0058
cell: 919.270.2488
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 09:34:51 -0000
From: nbrommer@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Need a Quarter Panel!
Hi folks,
Just making a quick post hoping someone has a right rear quarter
panel I could use. I have a painted D that has some minor damage
around the wheel well, and I'm probably better off replacing the
panel than having an inexperience bodyman tinkering with something he
is not real familiar with. Plus, I want to avoid bondo under the
paint in case I should ever decide to strip it.
Thanks!
Nick
nickbrom(at)aol.com
nbrommer(at)krem.com
VIN 3092, the blue one!
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 09:36:00 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Change
I always use a new washer. I get my filters from Grady, and he includes a new
washer with the filter. I think other vendors do the same.
Les Huckins wrote:
>
> New washer with each change or do you use them over?
>
> Les
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 12:40:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: fuel pump access
Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due to a
faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened the hood, popped out
the tire and...
Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no idea whether this is
normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are definitely in the
'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that the pump is accessed by
removing an access panel under the spare tire. That access panel (along
with at least one other panel, and in addition to most of the rest of the
luggage compartment appears to have been sealed with...well, sealant. A
black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type seal, not a
painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.
So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access the pump, I can crack
the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth? Small hamster?
Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step, etc. Thanks, folks. :)
Noah
#2867
"...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car and installed an
expensive stereo."
_Good News From Outer Space_
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 06:53:34 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean for sale...
There's a little rinky dink, gravel lot, used car place down the street from
me. I mean, this place is as small as untidy you can get. But they have a
DeLorean for sale. As I drove by it today and saw it, I practically locked
up my brakes to stop and check it out. Here's what I saw. Vin#16669, so I'd
guess it's an 82. It has black interior, and in very good condition. No
cracks on binacle, dash, or seats. It has pretty low miles and the stainless
is nice. It has the original radio and suspension. It even has the original
NCT's and they look like new! The car looks really clean and original. I'm
suspecting it was the same car I saw cruising down the highway on saturday.
They're asking $18,500. Looks like it's worth it, but I'm sure they'd take
less. I can take a closer look at it for someone if they're seriously
interested. It's right down the street from me in central NJ.
---Dan
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:10:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: do we really need a new tech site?
Just my two cents worth here... I put up
deloreancentral.com - has forums and some other stuff
to help the D community, but I realized something.
The DML is an invaluable resource - infact, it's the
most important thing I have to go with my Delorean..
forget the manuals, this is the place I get the most
support from.
By pushing Deleoreancentral - it would take away (or
possibly could) some of the knowledge that flows here
already.... I dont know about everyone else, but I
dont have time to do DML and other websites everyday..
as it is now, i only check the DML messages once every
two days if I am lucky...
Why split up something that already works so well?
I think backing up DML is probably the best way we can
go.... there are lots of people with good intentions,
put up sites, and then go under, or never touch them
again... DML has a time proven record for dedicated
ops, and a big Delorean following.
I dont worry that someday the ops will say "ahh screw
it, I am not running DML anymore", as so many other
sites have done in the past.
Sure - I can do all the cool flash animations,
database searches, and cool stuff like that I want -
but the truth of the matter is, DML cuts through the
bull, and gives us what we need, a medium to
communicate and help each other out.... why pull away
from that :).
Just my two cents worth from a guy who was gonna start
a Delorean site...
Mike
Vin855
owner of http://www.deloreancentral.com - soon to just
be a profile of my own car.
--- deloreanernst@xxxxxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 3/29/01 10:09:49 PM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx writes:
>
> << What exactly is the goal of the new DMCTech
> mailing list?
> Is it going to be a "bin" for people to submit
> ideas for a Startup
> Guide for the DeLorean? Or is this going to be a
> 2nd version of the
> DML? I can understand creating a bulletin board to
> post ideas to.
> That way you can keep both an online record, and
> you can have people
> further elaborate on those ideas as things
> progress. Or is this going
> to be a tech list where people can post problems
> with thier cars, and
> then have technical advice offered? If so, then
> that's already here
> on the DML. I'm not saying anything in an attempt
> to knock anyone or
> their ideas. It's just that not only is the DML
> already in place, but
> we have many people here who just by reading the
> daily postings alone
> are able to "proofread" advice and repair
> procedures for inaccuracies
> and so forth. There are many list members here who
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 18:36:30 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pump access
You are right, that lower access panel is what you need to take off
to get to the fuel pump. That black sealant is just black RTV
Sillicone. Unscrew the access screws, and pull the panel carefully,
opening up the seal as you go. Once it's off, clean the remaining
sealant off with a razor blade. You will then see the fuel pump
cover boot (hopefully) with two hoses coming out of the top. Loosen
the clamp around the outside of the boot, and pull it up a little
bit. You can then look down on the fuel pump. If it has a long
steel neck, accompanied by a flat hex nut on the top of it, then it
is most likely the built in check valve that is bad. I have heard it
is a common problem with that style fuel pump. If you see a "domed"
nut on top of it, then you have a newer style pump, with an external
check valve. Hope this helps!
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Noah <sitz@xxxx> wrote:
> Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due
to a
> faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened the hood,
popped out
> the tire and...
>
> Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no idea whether this
is
> normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are definitely in the
> 'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that the pump is
accessed by
> removing an access panel under the spare tire. That access panel
(along
> with at least one other panel, and in addition to most of the rest
of the
> luggage compartment appears to have been sealed with...well,
sealant. A
> black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type seal, not a
> painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.
>
> So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access the pump, I can
crack
> the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth? Small hamster?
>
> Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step, etc. Thanks,
folks. :)
>
> Noah
> #2867
>
> "...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car and installed an
> expensive stereo."
> _Good News From Outer Space_
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 19:26:55 -0000
From: rdh@xxxxxxxx
Subject: More Low Fares to Ireland and DeLorean Eurofest 2001
Frommers just posted the following travel note:
We're starting to see some truly rock bottom rates for travel to the
British Isles. The latest promotion is from esteemed Ireland expert,
Sceptre Tours (800/221-0924 or www.sceptretours.com) which will be
lowering prices for six night lodgings, flights on Aer Lingus and car
rental packages to an unheard of $559/per person, based on double
occupancy. This is for travel from now through May 15th, although
that rate rises by just $40 until May 31. This special is flyable
from New York, Baltimore and Boston.
Air Fares from JFK, Newark, Boston or BWI are listed as $388 RT, $478
from Chicago, and $538 from Los Angeles for flights through May 31.
Must purchase by April 5.
DeLorean Eurofest 2001 information and registration is at:
http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/eurofest2001.html
See you at Eurofest,
Ray Haug
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 08:08:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Newbie Manual
I've always felt that one of the problems with so many
manuals, of any tiype, is that while they have reams
of good information, you ned to know what you are
looking for in order to find it. In other words, the
cataloging or indexing is often by 'solutions" rather
than by "symptoms"
I'd like to suggest that the manual have, for
instance, a section on "noises". It would address
questions such as "what is that hissing sound coming
from behind my dash", "what is that humming sound I
get on ocassion - it seems to come from the front of
the car, and usually only on hot days". or, "what is
that clunk I hear in the rear when I turn a sharp
corner". Thus identify the problem and then refer the
reader to the section with the more detailed set of
instructions on correction.
Dick Ryan
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:01:45 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuel pump access gasket
In a message dated 4/2/01 5:33:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ultra@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< That black sealant is just black RTV
Sillicone. >>
When you put the pump access cover back on, it's easier to use the self-stick
gasket available for that purpose from your favorite D vendor, instead of
regooping it with sloppy silicone. Then you won't need to go through that
prying-off process again next time. And there will be a next time.
Wayne A. Ernst
DMCTech
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 19:49:03 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuel pump access
On my car the seals were simply torn when the panels were pulled.
Driving even thru deep water I've never had them leak. If anything
does leak, you could always get a thin foam seal from a hardware store
to fit on the bottom of the panels. Would look a bit nicer.
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 15:10:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuel pump access
Noah:
I am in the same boat... no mechanic here :) To get
to your fuel pump you just need get through the spare
tire access plate.. you will see a think thats rubber
with two hoses coming out of it... if the plastic
cover is in tact - it can be removed... mine was
already removed and underneath it (the thing with the
two hoses coming out) you will see the fuel pump...
Mike
--- Noah <sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start
> problems are due to a
> faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened
> the hood, popped out
> the tire and...
>
> Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no
> idea whether this is
> normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are
> definitely in the
> 'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that
> the pump is accessed by
> removing an access panel under the spare tire. That
> access panel (along
> with at least one other panel, and in addition to
> most of the rest of the
> luggage compartment appears to have been sealed
> with...well, sealant. A
> black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type
> seal, not a
> painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.
>
> So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access
> the pump, I can crack
> the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth?
> Small hamster?
>
> Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step,
> etc. Thanks, folks. :)
>
> Noah
> #2867
>
> "...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car
> and installed an
> expensive stereo."
> _Good News From Outer Space_
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 16:47:30 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: signal bulbs and fan motor
What are the proper front turn signal bulbs to use? I pulled the old one's
out, they were 1154 bulbs, so I replaced them with the same number. They
only lasted a few days and was wondering if I'm using the wrong bulbs, I've
only had the car a week so I don't know what should be in there.
Also, my interior fan motor cuts out from time to time. It will work fine
at first but after a while will only work in short irregular bursts. It's
not noisy or exceptionally weak. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
I'd appreciate any help anyone may have!
Brandon
VIN 2975
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 23:46:59 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cold engine performance problem
Before tearing into the fuel system to look for gremlins if the
ignition wires and spark plugs are old try replacing them first. Also
do a visual inspection of all of the vacuum hoses to see if they are
on, correctly routed, not brittle, etc. Is the fuel fresh? If the car
has been sitting and there is old gas in it it is less volitile and
won't burn good until the engine gets hot. I have seen cars that sit a
lot and the owner just keeps topping off the tank so the old stale
fuel sludges up in the bottom. Another thing peculiar to Deloreans is
that the plugs sit in a "well" so if any moisture gets in there it
will cause a breakdown of the ignition wire going to the plug. Is the
car kept outside or is it garaged? Is it worse after a rain?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ed Garbade" <garbadee@xxxx> wrote:
> My D seems to start OK but I have an interesting performance
problem. When
> I frist start the car it runs fine. After a mile or so it runs very
bad
> until the engine warms up. Typical examples:
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 23:37:39 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Was fuel pump access Now Hard Hot Start
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Extreme caution should be taken when working on the fuel system. Ensure the system is depressurized prior to working on any fuel system component. This can be hazardous, so if you are not experienced with working on your DeLorean's fuel system you might consider leaving this to professionals.]
When I hear hard hot start the first thing to check is the
accumulater. You are also correct that the check valve on the fuel
pump must be there and working for the accumulater to hold up the
system rest pressure. One way to check is to remove the return line
from the accumulater and if it is full of fuel replace the
accumulater. If the problem persists then replace the check valve. If
you had a fuel pressure gauge you could be more definitive in the
analysis. If it is the origional accumulater and if it isn't bad now
it will probably fail soon anyway. Be careful not to twist the fuel
lines and kink or bend them as to replace involves lifing the body off
the frame!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Noah <sitz@xxxx> wrote:
> Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due
to a
> expensive stereo."
> _Good News From Outer Space_
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 00:36:28 -0000
From: floodle@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: A new DMC owner with a problem
Hello all,
This is my first post to the DML. I've been reading the posts for a
while now, but have never needed to post for lack of a car. All that
changed recently as I am the proud new owner of vin# 1217, a 1981 D
with black interior and auto transmission. It has the hood lines and
a fuel flap. It currently has ~11600 miles on it. Before I took
posession of the car, it had been sitting in a garage in Tacoma, WA
for somewhere around 16 years (!). I had it towed to FAME Automotive
and there it sat for three months longer getting lots of fun stuff
done to it. Some of these things included: new steering rack/pinion,
rebuilt radiator, all cooling system hoses & clamps replaced, new
front brake rotors, 4 new brake pads, master cylinder flush, full
tune up, all fluids flushed and replaced, injectors cleaned, fuel
accumulator replaced, new battery, new door seal, tons of door/window
work and many others.
Having said that, my reason for posting: The car seems to run great
pretty much all the time, and starts perfectly both cold and hot.
However, the car only runs like a dream when the gas tank is full or
near-full. After I drive enough to burn off about 4 gallons of fuel
(leaving 9 in the tank, I think), it stutters when accelerating and,
if the fuel level is low enough, will die. I have noted that this
problem is intensified when taking right turns. I can accelerate
very slowly and the problem goes away; it will only stutter once or
so and then ride normally. When the tank gets down near 1/2 full,
the engine will die at almost every opportunity when accelerating. I
have solved this problem so far by filling up often and keeping the
tank full. I was told by one mechanic that it sounds like the fuel
sending unit may be bad. Does this sound right? Does anyone have
any ideas?
Thanks,
Aaron King
Kirkland, WA
#1217
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 20:06:25 -0500
From: "Mike & Ann Griese" <roscsyl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: fuel pump access
Noah - Take a small flat-blade scdrewdriver and slip it under
an edge of the cover and gently pry upward by twisting the blade.
Work your way around the cover and it will come up. The sealant
is probably an RTV type adhesive. Be sure to replace the sealant
when you put the cover back on or you might get water in the
trunk. There was an article in one of the old DMC News magazines
that went over installing a Tankzilla that has pretty good pictures
showing all of this (if I do say so myself).
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Noah [mailto:sitz@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:41 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] fuel pump access
Right. the prevailing theory is that my hot start problems are due to a
faulty check valve. So ( the story goes ), I opened the hood, popped out
the tire and...
Lacking anything to compare it against, I have no idea whether this is
normal or not. My vehicular disection skills are definitely in the
'beginner' category, but I do know (I think) that the pump is accessed by
removing an access panel under the spare tire. That access panel (along
with at least one other panel, and in addition to most of the rest of the
luggage compartment appears to have been sealed with...well, sealant. A
black vaguely rubbery sealent. It's a bead-type seal, not a
painted-all-over-the-luggage-compartment seal.
So now what? Assuming I'm right about how to access the pump, I can crack
the seal, but how? Razor blade? Pocket knife? Teeth? Small hamster?
Open to suggestions, recommendations, step-by-step, etc. Thanks, folks. :)
Noah
#2867
"...a gang of Dadaist punks had broken into his car and installed an
expensive stereo."
_Good News From Outer Space_
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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