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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Auto Trans GC Cap size
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Hard Starting - some times
From: "Michael R Dixon" <investment@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: DMC12 Handling on the limit
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
6. Bad gas cap x-reference (was Fuel Leak?)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: PICS please (was:Binnacle recovering)
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
8. Re: Delorean Model Seriously now!
From: "Dingo" <dingo@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
10. Shift computer(Comparative Gov Assy)
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
11. Binnicle recover
From: "Drinkware" <marvin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Auto Trans GC Cap size
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. engine swap
From: "Jim Plamondon" <saab82@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: Auto Trans GC Cap size
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
From: deloreanetwork@xxxxxxxxxx
16. Re: Auto Trans GC Cap size
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: engine swap
From: Willie Mack <wmack@xxxxxx>
18. Re: Binnicle recover
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Hard Starting - some times
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
20. Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
21. SS Chassis
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
22. One more addition to SS chassis
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
23. O.E.M. Locking Gas Cap
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Tankzilla problems, fixes & observations (long as usual)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
25. Eurofest 2001 in Belfast Northern Ireland
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 07:59:25 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
Since you have not revealed your true identity, it is my hope that no one on
the list will tell you via this very public forum or through direct email
how to "break" into the car.
I am always cautious with email from unknowns or aliases.
You should contact one of the DMC service providers via phone for
assistance.
Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981
----- Original Message -----
From: <deloreanetwork@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 3:17 PM
Subject: [DML] Broken Hood Release Cable
> I apologize if this subject has been covered before!
>
> I have an '81 that has a broken hood release and
> the cable is too far inside the inner part of the
> release cable to all me to release the hood to get
[moderator snip]
> If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know!
>
> Thank you,
>
> J.B.S.
> VIN# 10715
> VIN# 980
> VIN# 3133
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:01:37 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable
Please CALL one of the vendors directly for this..
We do not need instructions on the public internet on how to break in to a
DeLorean!
[Duplicate quote snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 08:56:00 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Auto Trans GC Cap size
Dave, Yes i'm here , just working long hours. If I can get the board I will
beef it up .
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 08:54:41 -0600
From: "Michael R Dixon" <investment@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hard Starting - some times
I've had my Delorean for 2 years now and love it. I've learned many things about maintaining it the hard way. I have a recurring problem. Hard starting, sometimes. Mostly when it's cold. I replaced the accumulator shortly after I bought it, but as time has gone by it is getting harder to start. Any suggestions?
--
Michael R. Dixon
The Investment Center
Securities Offered Through Harbour Investments Inc.
One Odana Ct.
Madison, WI. 53719
(608) 274-7744
Securties Licensed in OK. CO.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 09:47:03 EST
From: fjk143@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: DMC12 Handling on the limit
Unless you understand the physics of trailing throttle oversteer as most early 911 drivers do, it would be unwise to try and find the limit on your unbalanced, rear engine DMC-12. Find a book on how to drive a 911 and apply those technques to the DMC. The major difference is that you will lack the power to steer with the rear wheels as you can with the 911s by modulating the throttle. A 911 is the fastest car in a slalom if it has the right driver. If it has the wrong driver it doesn't make it past the second cone. The same would be true with the DMC as I have done it with mine intentionally and expected such behavior. To be caught off guard by it however, would be no fun I expect. Note that most 911s crash tail first through the guardrails, haybales, etc - (oversteer). The DMC does the same. That is the reason why you have two different size tires on your car - to try and minimize the trailing throttle overtseer by making the back tires larger, thus creating a larger!
contact patch and making the ba
ck "stickier" than the front. That is the same on 911s. Todays 996s have basically had that characteristic engineered out, not only by tire sizes but also by suspension geonetries that are much more sophisticated than the DMC. Remember the 911 has been in production since 1963 so their learning curve is a little longer the the two or so years of the DMC.
Most front engine cars go through the fence nose first -(understeer) as they continue to plow forward, usually with locked brakes when the force on the front wheels exceed the coefficent of friction between rubber and tarand mac break traction.
As most of us grew up driving front engined American cars we are used to going into a turn too fast and then lifting the throttle and scrubbing the speed off and exiting safely. If you do that in a rear engine and even some mids and you'll spin it around a point near the center of the front axle. Good luck.
Fred
6894
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 10:32:05 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Bad gas cap x-reference (was Fuel Leak?)
I found the problem (or at least a significant contributing factor). And
also DMC Joe and I owe y'all an apology. A few weeks ago I posted a note
saying that the Stant brand model # 11623 gas cap is an acceptable
replacement for the DeLorean locking gas cap. This is wrong. It looks
great and fits well, but it is the 'Anti-Surge Type Vented'. I understand
that the DeLorean fuel system requires a cap that is completely sealed. I
found a close second which is Stant brand # 11810 which is 'Emission Control
Type', but it is still vented in that it has a spring loaded pressure
release. It also isn't near as pretty as the # 11623. Otherwise it appears
that Stant does not make an acceptable cross-reference. Now don't y'all
give me a bunch of flack about that I should only buy my parts from the
DeLorean vendors. :-) I called Joe LoRe' asking to buy a non-locking cap
from him. He told me to just buy the #11623 from a local auto parts store.
I put my old OEM locking gas cap on for now, and my fuel odors have
diminished significantly. But the OEM cap does not seal well either. I'm
afraid that I'm going to twist off my ignition key in there. Even when I
use the key to lock it on, I can still get it off without the key. So the
locking part is just a nuisance. I've tried oiling the moving parts and
loosening things up, but it still doesn't work right.
I put the inside portion of my new gas cap # 11623 to the bench grinder and
neatly cut out the center and removed the vent parts. I filled the hole
with JB-Weld and heated it with a heat gun to remove the bubbles. So far it
has made a neat job and is setting up on my work bench. This will give me a
sealing non-vented gas cap like the OEM, but it is polished stainless steel
and matches the rest of the car better than any other cap I've seen.
Thanks to Dee Moats, Scott Mueller, & Robert for suggesting the gas cap. I
just didn't suspect it at all. I took the vapor line loose from the filler
neck and from the vapor canister and checked it thoroughly for leaks. There
were none. A curious observation I made is that the clamps on these lines
do not look OEM. They are the variety that have the cut-through slots for
the worm gear/screw. I don't see why the previous owner would tamper with
it unless the car had emissions problems. Florida emissions never checked
that sort of thing. Since the car originally came from Illinois, does
anyone know how picky they are with vapor recovery?
Thanks to Nick, David Teitelbaum and Steve Rubano for the suggestions on
fixing the metal fuel line. Mine isn't really kinked bad enough to cause
problems, but it is a project that I will get to eventually. When I do,
I'll be asking y'all.
Thanks to y'all I was able to confirm that I have the wrong type fuel line
on my accumulator, so I'll be getting that replaced hopefully before it
ruptures.
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 16:03:35 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: PICS please (was:Binnacle recovering)
Hi
I have a grey interior and would love to see some pics of others
binnacles and or dashboards that have been recovered. If you could,
please send them to me personally....or upload them into the vault.
Thanks
Erik Geerdink
4512
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, nbeatson@xxxx wrote:
> Steve,
>
> My binnacle was severely cracked when I bought my car [snip]
>
> After considering Alcantera (too expensive),leather (too difficult
to contour), I spoke to a friend who recommended felt.
>
> It was actually very easy to make fit and unlike vinyl it won't
> crack in the sun. It looks good too and compliments the black leather
> of the rest of the interior.
>
> Nigel
>
> Vin 02677
>
> p.s. the hardest part of the re-covering process was removing the
old vinyl from the binnacle
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 13:03:45 -0500
From: "Dingo" <dingo@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Model Seriously now!
>who to talk to, etc. Read the back issues! If fact, before you ask ANY
>question here read the back issues. They are a fantastic resource about all
>these subjects that come up over and over again.
Why can't we refresh threads? Almost everything has been said at some point
so why don't we just close down and post the archives? I agree that
comparing the Audi TT to the DMC should have been shut down early, but for
normal informative questions, the discussions should be free.
[MODERATOR NOTE: Obviously some repeating is necessary for the DML. However certain pointless subjects, like Lee's models, will not be tolerated for long.]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 19:15:35 -0000
From: mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable
Hi List.
What you need is to go to message 11493 and there it will tell you to
get Service Bulletin ST-21-10-81 for a broken hood release cable.
Contact DMC Help / De Lorean Services for the Service Bulletin.
www.deloreanservices.com
Sorry I couldn't be any more help than that. I don't even own a
Delorean, yet.
Next week I will be signing the paperwork for VIN# 2261.
Join a Delorean club they're great!
Mark.
VIN# 2261 next week.
mvanyo[at]delorean.com
[Duplicate quote snipped]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 20:34:07 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Shift computer(Comparative Gov Assy)
I have been trying to find the model and make of car that Chrysler
sold in 1984 that used the same shift computer as in the Delorean. My
research so far is that it was a Chrysler part number T 1585-496 Wire
Assbly. It was used on one of the cars that Chrysler imported that
year. My purpose in this is to get the service manual that Chrysler
produced for that car pertaining to the shift computer to see if
there
is anything as far as servicing, adjusting, repairing,
troubleshooting
etc. I have contacted Chrysler experts and no one is any help in
regard to the imports, it seems to be an area completly forgotten. If
anyone on the list has any info to add please contact me privatly.
Also a list of Renault cars that used this computer could be helpful.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 16:43:21 -0500
From: "Drinkware" <marvin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Binnicle recover
I have had my binnicle "fixed" twice by a company that does dash referbaration, referboration, refebirition,.........fills the cracks and recolours........and the cracks came back. $100.00 out the window, nothing back only an apology! I'd like to hear from someone who has had theirs upholstered, how it fit, what colour / make of vinyl they used, mine is grey, any problem disconnecting and then reconnecting all the stuff.
Marvin Stein
tel: 519 - 434 - 1666
fax: 519 - 434 - 7071
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada, N5W 3A1
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 13:04:10 -0600
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Auto Trans GC Cap size
Made an error on the previous response. Upon closer inspection yes the end
caps are blown out.
My error.
<snip>
I'd like to know if the black rubber end seals were blown out of your caps.
Please reply.
<snip>
Matthew L. Walker
VIN #1219
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 22:12:07
From: "Jim Plamondon" <saab82@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: engine swap
Has anyone ever done engine swap,or knows someone who has done it
before?
Please email me..
Thanks, Jim
saab82@xxxxxxxxxxx
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 12:30:45 -0600
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Auto Trans GC Cap size
Nope the ends weren't blown off the caps. I put Pix of the circuit boards up
on my site everything looks alright. No scorches on the board, all resisters
and diodes check ok -- although I think the transistors may be bad -- still
trying to find my old electronics books to be sure. I got a couple of
TIP42s from Radio shack to replace them just to be sure. I'll go by Fry's
today to pick up new tantalum caps. I should have it back on tomorrow with
any luck and will be able to tell for sure if that was the problem. Wish me
luck.
Matthew L. Walker
-----Original Message-----
<snip>
I'd like to know if the black rubber end seals were blown out of your caps.
Please reply.
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 17:34:30 -0800 (PST)
From: deloreanetwork@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
Allow me to introduce myself.
My name is Jason Scott (JBS)!
I think that it is the most ludicrous thing I've ever heard of in being
concerned with someone wanting to break into the "trunk" of a DeLorean! Why
would ANYONE want to do that?
I've left my car(s) COMPLETELY UNLOCKED before and noone touches it (them),
probably because they're too afraid of drawing attention to themselves with
the doors going up!
I seriously doubt there are ANY thiefs....lying in wait just trying to get
the first glimpse off of this list on how to break into the hood/trunk of a
DeLorean!! Besides, most owner's cars are securely tucked away in their
garages..
I've got a "real" problem with this hood release cable and was hoping that
someone knowledgeable here on the DML would have some wisdom for me.
Is this list merely to discuss technical issues and whether or not there was
a DeLorean on Miami Vice or is it here for some of the mundane....yet, also
necessary problems that go along with DeLorean ownership....like broken hood
release cables! I surely hope so!!!!
I realize that there needs to be some censorship, but if someone wants to go
to the trouble of "breaking into" your DeLorean....they're going to do it
anyway. And I can be quite sure they won't take the time and delicacy of
what I am asking from the DML subscriber's to provide me with.
I hope this clears the air. I'd be happy to call one of the "vendors", but
if I do that....then what do I really need this list for?
If anyone is open to offering solutions to the problem. Please feel free to
email me directly.
We don't need this thread to last forever. It was my FIRST EVER post even
though I've been a reader and DeLorean owner for the past 5 years!
Thanks and I hope I am absolved now that my "identity" has been revealed!
Jason
On Thu, 1 Feb 2001 07:59:25 -0600, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Since you have not revealed your true identity, it is my hope that no one
on
> the list will tell you via this very public forum or through direct email
> how to "break" into the car.
>
> I am always cautious with email from unknowns or aliases.
>
> You should contact one of the DMC service providers via phone for
> assistance.
>
> Scott Mueller
> DOA/DMCNEWS
> 002981
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <deloreanetwork@xxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 3:17 PM
> Subject: [DML] Broken Hood Release Cable
>
>
> > I apologize if this subject has been covered before!
> >
> > I have an '81 that has a broken hood release and
> > the cable is too far inside the inner part of the
> > release cable to all me to release the hood to get
>
> [moderator snip]
>
> > If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know!
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > J.B.S.
> > VIN# 10715
> > VIN# 980
> > VIN# 3133
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
_______________________________________________________
Send a cool gift with your E-Card
http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 19:43:17 -0600
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auto Trans GC Cap size
Cool. Thanks for the feedback. That makes 100% of the total of 17 units I've
seen. And of the 17, only one had any other problem--the combination switch.
\\Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew L. Walker" <mwalker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 1:04 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Auto Trans GC Cap size
> Made an error on the previous response. Upon closer inspection yes the end
> caps are blown out.
>
> My error.
>
> <snip>
> I'd like to know if the black rubber end
> seals were blown out of your caps.
> <snip>
>
> Matthew L. Walker
> VIN #1219
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 01 Feb 2001 20:48:35 -0500
From: Willie Mack <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: RE: engine swap
There is a article in Delorean World (Fall 1998) about a guy who swapped
engines. Used the 215 V8 commonly found in Land Rovers
Willie
Vin 5043
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Plamondon [mailto:saab82@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2001 5:12 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] engine swap
> Has anyone ever done engine swap,or knows
> someone who has done it before?
Thanks, Jim
saab82 @ hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 03:57:12 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Binnicle recover
Thanks to evryone for the input on this subject. I have spoken to a
dash recovering place and they said that they could recover it with
leather or vinyl BUT it will have the stiching on the sides (where it
would curve down). I don't think it will look bad at all since some
other parts of the D's interior have stiching (center console). Now
my next question, what would be better? Vinyl or Leather? which one
would stand up better and resist cracking? I don't want to "fill the
cracks"
Again thanks,
Steve
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 04:42:15 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hard Starting - some times
The accumulater failure is usualy associated with a hot hard start. In
your case of a hard cold start the first area to check is the cold
start valve,the control switch and pressure regulater. My guess is a
bad control switch. Also visualy check all vacuum hoses. If high
mileage changing the spark plugs, ignition wires, cap and rotor is
also going to help especially if the problem seems to occur at times
of high humidity.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Michael R Dixon" <investment@xxxx> wrote:
[moderator snip]
> I have a recurring problem.
> Hard starting, sometimes. Mostly when it's cold.
[moderator snip]
> Michael R. Dixon
> The Investment Center
> Securities Offered Through Harbour Investments Inc.
> One Odana Ct.
> Madison, WI. 53719
> (608) 274-7744
> Securties Licensed in OK. CO.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:19:51 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken Hood Release Cable-Security!!!
Jason, List,
I have been reading this list for only about 2 years, the hood release thing
has been mentioned before with similar comments.
I would not like to be faced with your problem, and that is why I rigged an
"emergency" extra cable, made out of very thin flexible stainless steel, it
attaches to the bottom of the release clip and loops around the fixed buffer
thingy just in front of the windshield. If you need to use it, then you just
have to fish for the end and pull sharply. It is most unlikely that any
unauthorised person would find it, or know what it was, and anyway I don't
keep much of great value in there anyway.
I did this because on the Right Hand Drive cars things are all changed
around in the spare wheel area I would "no way" be able to release the
bonnet ( hood) from underneath.
I have done similar with the engine cover, but that is much easier to get at
anyway.
Sorry I can't be of more help, but prevention is better than cure.
Chris P DOC UK
[Entire quoted thread snipped by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 17:48:49 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: SS Chassis
I hate to bring this up again but I thought this might be interesting
for some. I was searching around for another project car to work on
after I finish my Delorean, I was looking at ERA's replica cars for
the GT-40. They said that they can either make the chassis of the car
out of standard steel or Stainless steel. They have produced a number
of these cars with Stainless steel chassis from what I understand
with no problems. So there are other cars out there with Stainless
steel chassis that have no problems and are safe. Here's the link:
http://www.erareplicas.com/gt/gt.htm scroll to the bottom where it
says "Specifications" in red. The third point under the heading is
the chassis.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 18:03:08 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: One more addition to SS chassis
Sorry forgot this link in my last post also:
http://www.erareplicas.com/gt/faqs.htm
Under the Design heading they talk about a Stainless steel chassis
Steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 08:31:42 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: O.E.M. Locking Gas Cap
My original locking gas cap had been sticking. To the point that the key would start to bend. I even tried to lubricate the cap through the key hole. That did not work because one of the o-rings had broken and was jamming the mechanism. To take the cap apart, you remove the small roll pin on the end. When you do, you then get to play, hunt the little parts that just flew across the garage. Clean the mechanism, assemble with a little lube and your cap will now work easily.
Of course there are two other options, by a replacement N.O.S. cap from your favorite DeLorean Service center or buy a non stock cap.
Scott Mueller
DOA/DMCNEWS
002981
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:06:45 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Tankzilla problems, fixes & observations (long as usual)
I've had a variety of problems getting all the bugs out of my Tankzilla.
The nice thing about the Zilla products is that the vendors stand behind
them and are quick to resolve problems. So far the problems I've had
involved leaks, fit, and function.
My Tankzilla leaked for 2 reasons. The most prominent leak was from the
construction of the top. Just under the metal lid is a centering ring that
is spot-welded to the top in several places. Between the spot-welds there
is no seal and plenty of room for fuel to leak out. These gaps were even
big enough to slide several thickness of paper through, so it's no wonder I
had leaks. How I fixed these leaks was I cleaned the surface with a spray
can of disk brake cleaner and then filled the gaps with JB-Weld epoxy. The
use of a heat gun and a knife blade helped to get the epoxy completely
through the spaces. The second reason for my Tankzilla leaking was due to a
faulty gasket. New out of the box, the gasket was pliable. But after a few
months of being exposed to fuel washing over it due to the above mentioned
leaks, the gasket turned as hard as plastic. A possible contributing factor
was that the outer diameter of the gasket was barely wide enough to cover
the key-way notch in the tank opening. I made a new gasket out of chrome
tanned tooling leather. You can gasp all you want, but if you understand
materials, leather is a great choice as it is difficult to find a material
that is 'crushable' enough to provide a good seal, yet inert enough to not
be affected by fuel. FYI, my Lincoln floor jack originally came with
leather seals that lasted a lot longer than any rubber ones I have put in
there since. The supplier told me that leather was no longer available due
to animal cruelty laws, yet leather seats are still very popular. Go
figure! My second choice for a gasket was the original rubber seal from my
locking gas cap since I'm not using it any more and it is coincidentally the
same outer diameter as the Tankzilla requires, but I preferred to save that
for museum purposes. DMC Joe recommended that I just fill the gaps with
Permatex Form-A-Gasket. I didn't do this because I was worried that the
gaps were too big and there was too much fuel sloshing in that area. I
think it would eventually wash out the material.
I've had 3 problems with getting the Tankzilla to fit properly. The first
problem was that the electrical connections on the top of the sensor sat up
too high and wouldn't clear the access cover. Rotational orientation of the
sender made no difference. I've read a post from another DMLer about having
leaks through the electrical connections, so if yours leaks through there
then it may be from mechanical wear caused by the access cover. To get more
clearance, I bent the male spade lugs on the sensor to the sides and removed
the female spade connectors from the plastic socket and insulated them with
heat shrink tubing. The second problem I had with fit was caused by the
fact that the hole in the tank for the fuel sending unit wasn't centered.
The top lip of the Tankzilla is a speck wider than the OEM sender and made
it very difficult to screw the retaining ring down. At a later time when I
had the fuel tank out of the car, I used a rat tail file to make the hole a
little bigger and better centered. The third problem with fit was that the
Tankzilla is missing the key-way that the OEM sender has. This is really
inconsequential other than making it hard to choose the orientation of the
electrical connections because the sender unit rotates in the hole as you
tighten the retaining ring.
The problems that I've had with the Tankzilla's function I've been able to
mostly resolve. My initial complaint was that the sending unit was much too
sensitive to fuel sloshing in the tank. It caused the fuel gauge to differ
by more than 1/4 tank while turning, stopping, accelerating, etc. When the
car was low on fuel, the low fuel warning light would blink wildly. I
called Rob and asked him what he thought of this. He said that on previous
Tankzillas he would put rivets in the lower holes on the sending unit to
slow fuel movement around the float. He said that he quit doing this due to
various reasons. I did some calculations and found that the lower half of
the Tankzilla has about 8.5 times more cross-sectional area for fuel to pass
through than on the OEM sending unit. This easily explains the wildly
fluctuating readings. I tried to resolve this by making a second baffle
that would surround the Tankzilla. My design was a large beer can -- of all
things. I choose this because it was already the right shape and is
impervious to the effects of fuel. It sounded great in theory, but when I
tried to install it I found that there was very little room for it in the
tank. The fuel sending unit almost touches the bottom of the tank and is
very near to the front edge were the bottom of the tank curves. There just
wasn't enough room. So I scrapped that idea and went filling the holes in
the lower half of the Tankzilla with JB-Weld epoxy. The only holes left now
are the 3 slots in the plastic base of the Tankzilla, yet these together
still have 2.5 times more cross-sectional area than the OEM sending unit.
My fuel level readings are much more stable now, and the low fuel light
doesn't flash quite as bad. But there is still room for improvement. I
plan on filling 1 or 2 of the remaining 3 openings, and this should do the
trick.
For those of you who want to try any of this, be very careful while
disassembling the Tankzilla. It uses a single nickel-chromium wire loop
that is extremely fragile. Do not allow it to scrape or touch the sides of
the aluminum housing as you take the unit apart.
Some observations I had while working on the Tankzilla is that it's
operation is very different from the OEM unit. It looks like someone got
very lucky in finding a sending unit meant for a different application and
was able to make it work in the DeLorean. Just for curiosity sake, I would
like to know what application this sending unit was originally meant for. I
s anyone willing to say, or is that a trade secret? It was made by the VDO
company in Germany. I know they make a lot of quality aftermarket gauges.
How the Tankzilla differs from OEM is that OEM uses a coil of resistive
nickel-chromium wire. As the float moves along the coil, the resistance in
the unit changes. When empty it gives 0 Ohms, and when full it gives 100
Ohms with 90 Ohms being equivalent to the 4/4 mark on the fuel gauge. The
Tankzilla unit uses only a single loop of wire rather than a coil and works
in reverse with 0 Ohms being a full tank and 64 Ohms being empty. The
interface box that comes with the Tankzilla inverts and expands the scale to
match the OEM unit. This was quite a feat of engineering, and I applaud
whoever designed it.
In order to improve the function of the low fuel warning light, the
Tankzilla has a built in 3 second delay before it allows the light to come
on. Unfortunately this advantage is more than lost due to the large volume
of fuel that can slosh through a stock unit. But if you block most of the
holes, this won't be a problem.
At this time the Tankzilla is the only new fuel sending unit available for
the DeLorean. So if your OEM unit fails, your main choices are relying on
your trip odometer or installing the Tankzilla. In some cases the OEM unit
can be repaired, but it is just not a good design to begin with. I would
like to see someone design a solid state fuel sending unit that uses
inter-electrode capacitance. It is very do-able and could be retailed for a
whole lot cheaper than the Tankzilla, but I've got way too many other
projects in the works. Does anyone else want to take a stab at it?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 18:25:02 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Eurofest 2001 in Belfast Northern Ireland
Eurofest, ferry arrangements from the UK to Ireland.
I have done a deal with Continental Car Tours of Deal Kent.
Routes 1) Stranraer (Scotland) direct to Belfast £145 per car inc. 2 passengers.
Route 2) Fishgard (Wales) to Rosslare in southern Ireland £131 per car inc. 2 passengers.
Both use Stena line ferries. Both are departures midweek returning on 27th May at either 09.00hrs or 21.50 hrs.
Book direct on 01304-380244, quote ref. "Parnham" www.continentalcartours.co.uk
Why not go a day or two earlier and make a proper holiday of it?
See you all there.
Chris P. DOC UK Hon. Sec.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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