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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: water pump pulleys
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Fuses
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Fuse box covers
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. DMCJOE
From: hrlyrngr1@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
13. DoorLock-wiring
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Fuse Box replacement
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
15. Cleaning your car
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Condesating Quarter-windows
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 21:33:59 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: water pump pulleys
Walt - I've been selling custom billet bolt-on water pump pulleys for close
to 14 years. They are extremely well made and look great. They go for $79
plus shipping but unfortunately I am sold out right now. The shop that
makes them for me is way behind and it will probably be January before I get
another supply. The reason I had them made was twofold - in the beginning a
lot of people were buying stock pumps and then ruining their pulley when
trying to switch it, and new pulleys were not available. Plus, the Volvo
version of the pump is considerably less expensive and easier to find. They
run around $79 - $135 depending on your resources, compared to the $463.75
cost of the original. Nowdays there are options from other dealers, but I
still sell a lot of these pulleys. Another advantage is the NEXT time your
pump goes south. You just take your lifetime warranteed Volvo pump back to
the parts house, get a new one, and its a freebee. I don't think the NOS
pumps have that kind of guarantee. Your choice.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 23:32:14 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Fuses
Walt, Your right, It sounds like I'm talking about the fuse block with all
the fuses in it. What I was trying to talk about is the fuse block, or strap,
or holders used to replace the fan fail module.Thats where I see 20+ amp
fuses. If that get's to hot due to overload, and the fuse doesn't blow fast
enough due to overating then there could be potential problems. Sorry: not
trying to mislead anyone. I have an eraser on my pencil also. I build and
will be on the web site soon a plug in modification for the fan fail module.
guess what, I call it ( The Fan Fail Fix ) Each leg to the fans is fused at
15 amps to maximize the protection to the $259.00 fans. Fuses are cheap. I
also use long terminals out the bottom to maximize the contact surface when
pluged into the socket as DMCJOE is relating to by contacts being tight.
Since most folks can't or won't take out the terminals to tighten them up, I
use the long terminals to help compensate.
Out of the Bussmann catalog: During normal conditions, an overcurrent
protection device ( fuse or circut breaker) must carry the current without
nuisance openings, However, when and overload or short circuit occurs the
device must ( interrupt or blow ) the overcurrent and withstand the voltage
across the device after arching.
They also say: In the Bussmann catalog, The circuit protection device is
designed to handle this value under steady operating conditions and at
ambient temp near 25degree c. It is recommended that circuit designers select
device ratings above the normal circuit current to prevent nuisance trips or
blown fuses.
Since the cooling fans in the De Lorean are an electric motor ( inductive
load ) and if the motors are in good condition, the 15Amp fuses in the fan
fail mods offer max protection, will handle inrush current and won't restrict
current flow to the motors.
If anyone would like the two page ( basic overcurrent technology ) out of the
Bussmann catalog, I will be happy to fax it to you.
DMCJOE is also correct in the #7 fuse. The fuel pump in the De Loreans is a (
inductive load motor ) which under stress or load conditions draws more
current and will melt #7 without blowing. The FV is also some what of an
inductive load device, so when you get both of them going. It's melt down
time over a period of time. His recomendation of replacement is wonderfull.
Hey, Walt
Call me.
John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 23:38:27 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fuse box covers
In a message dated 11/30/00 11:16:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dherv10@xxxxxxx writes:
<< I also leave the cover off the fuses in the De Lorean to help get rid of
heat. >>
Me too... but I keep the cover in the electrical compartment. It has the
fuse legend identifying what fuse covers what.
Wayne
The New DeLorean Manuals project
vin 11174
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 05:15:54 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
Ben, I have assembled a replacement fuse block. You can see it on my
web site www.specialTauto.com. It would be a full day of rewiring i'm
sure, but in a fix it will work and look good also. It is also
modular, so if a fuse melts again and disfigures this block, then you
can buy another section and it's unplug and plug. Email me if your
intrested and we can talk about it. I'm not for sure what the
material temperture rating of the Pressac block in the cars now is
but I think mine is the same. I will check with the manufacture to
see.
John
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Ben Maxwell" <ben@xxxx> wrote:
> In mine, the fuse block has melted in two places, where the fuses
are
> connected much like the fan fail fix...
>
> I'd love to eventually clean that area up, and get a new block and
> harness, but would hate to have it meltdown again-- is there an
> alternative fuse box out there?
>
> -ben
> 06976
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > Jim,
> >
> > It's not the fuse itself that is the source of the heat so much
as
> it is the
> > poor connection to the fuse. If you want to reduce your chances
of
> a
> > melt-down, use a heavier duty style of fuse & fuse holder with
the
> original
> > 20 amp rating.
> >
> > The Delorean engineers thought they could get away with using a
fuse
> &
> > holder rated at 20 amps that was meant for a low duty cycle and
> instead they
> > used it for a high or even continuous duty cycle situation (as in
> the case
> > with the headlight high beams which causes another melted spot on
> the fuse
> > block.) Either you need to take apart and clean the contacts
> periodically
> > and hope it doesn't melt down despite your efforts or else
replace
> it with a
> > reasonable design that does not require this sort of maintenance.
> >
> > Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 00:42:26 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
-ben,
Unfortunately the answer is no. We have been working on an alternative for
quite some time. As a matter of fact our research DeLorean was fitted with a
Buss glass fuse block over 12 years ago. We never installed this system in
any other DeLorean because of extensive modifications to the existing
electrical compartment.
Once again if you routinely maintain the fuses and fuse block you should
have no further problems with meltdown.
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Maxwell <ben@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 8:20 PM
Subject: [DML] Fuse block (was Fuses)
> In mine, the fuse block has melted in two places, where the fuses are
> connected much like the fan fail fix...
>
> I'd love to eventually clean that area up, and get a new block and
> harness, but would hate to have it meltdown again-- is there an
> alternative fuse box out there?
>
> -ben
> 06976
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 05:25:13 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
To properly check the source of the current drain put an ammeter on
the battery positive connection and observe the total current draw.
Now one at a time pull fuses. You will find that there is draw from
more than 1 fuse but the major amount will be drawn by #12 the door
and interior light circuit. Typically 10 m.a. is considered normal
for
a car sitting, it will take a month to discharge a good fully charged
battery. Normal on a Delorean is usually quite a bit more. The cause
is the many diodes in circuit #12. It is true that a diode is like a
"check valve" but it is a leaky one. Each one adds up to a large
cumulative effect.They can also fail by getting more leaky not just
open or shorted. If you are confident that you have a good
battery(load test it) and that all of your electrical connections are
good then the problem most likely is in circuit #12. If the battery
is
more than 4-5 years old and it has spent it's life 1/2 in storage and
1/2 being used it is probably not able to provide full capacity and a
load test will show it. Also if there is a problem in the charging
circuit and the battery is always undercharged it will shorten the
life of the battery. Another source of this problem are the door
switches. There is a rubber tip on them and with age or maybe it's no
longer there the switch can make contact even with the doors closed.
With the interior lights off you wouldn't see the door lights still
on. The ultimate solution is to install a master switch with a bypass
fused wire to the clock. Then at shows the doors can be left open and
you don't have to worry about the battery. It is also a good theft
deterrent if you get the one with a removable key.Most people
unfamiliar with a Delorean would never find the battery let alone the
master switch.If you have a measurable current in the door lock
circuit there is a problem, it should not have a measurable draw.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 and yes I have a master switch with clock bypass.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx>
wrote:
> Because I have a daily driver DeLorean in addition to my new one
that I'm
> restoring, my good DMC doesn't get out much during these rainy
winter months
> (I'm in Oregon, so it gets pretty sloppy around here this time of
year).
> I've been a little curious about the gradual battery discharge that
our cars
> seem to be so susceptible to, so I did a little investgating last
weekend.
>
> It is well known that the console clock and radio consume a trickle
of
> current. However, when pulling the radio fuse there is still a
slight power
> drain (at least on my cars). In fact, after pulling all the fuses
my
cars
> still have a power drain from the batter of around 11mA. This isn't
very
> much, but is sufficient to slowly degrade a battery over time.
>
> In trying to track down this power trickle, what I found was that
the door
> lock module on my car draws the additional 11mA of current. I
haven't
> disassembled or reverse-engineered the module yet to understand why
it draws
> a trickle current, but it appears to do so. I'm not sure if the
LockZilla
> similarly draws a trickle current as I only have stock door lock
modules in
> my cars.
>
> If you suffer from inexplicable battery drain for a car that's
stored for
> periods, the door lock module appears to be one of the contributors
to the
> problem. I still need to recheck my measurements this weekend, but
it
> appears that removing the clock/radio fuse and unplugging the door
lock
> module may be sufficient to avoid battery drain without the need for
> installation of battery cutoff switches, trickle chargers, etc.
>
> Knut
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 04:46:00 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
Knut, If anyone has a bad door lock module or one I could look at
that has been opened, I bet I could come up with a Fix. Down here in
Texas I drive my car year round and don't notice things like that.
This is where a good hot battery with lots of current capacity comes
in. I have a clip on 12 volt fan I leave running in my car during hot
days all day long and it doesn't drain the battery down.
John
11004,6935,6568
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Grimsrud, Knut S"
<knut.s.grimsrud@xxxx> wrote:
> Because I have a daily driver DeLorean in addition to my new one
that I'm
> restoring, my good DMC doesn't get out much during these rainy
winter months
> (I'm in Oregon, so it gets pretty sloppy around here this time of
year).
> I've been a little curious about the gradual battery discharge that
our cars
> seem to be so susceptible to, so I did a little investgating last
weekend.
>
> It is well known that the console clock and radio consume a trickle
of
> current. However, when pulling the radio fuse there is still a
slight power
> drain (at least on my cars). In fact, after pulling all the fuses
my cars
> still have a power drain from the batter of around 11mA. This isn't
very
> much, but is sufficient to slowly degrade a battery over time.
>
> In trying to track down this power trickle, what I found was that
the door
> lock module on my car draws the additional 11mA of current. I
haven't
> disassembled or reverse-engineered the module yet to understand why
it draws
> a trickle current, but it appears to do so. I'm not sure if the
LockZilla
> similarly draws a trickle current as I only have stock door lock
modules in
> my cars.
>
> If you suffer from inexplicable battery drain for a car that's
stored for
> periods, the door lock module appears to be one of the contributors
to the
> problem. I still need to recheck my measurements this weekend, but
it
> appears that removing the clock/radio fuse and unplugging the door
lock
> module may be sufficient to avoid battery drain without the need for
> installation of battery cutoff switches, trickle chargers, etc.
>
> Knut
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 00:57:51 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
Knut,
That is the reason that I suggest that all factory installed lock modules be
permanently disconnected. It's this mysterious trickle voltage that will
cause the module to activate and lock the doors unpredictably which in turn
will overheat the lock solenoids eventually leading to their destruction.
As you may know this is the main source of occupants being unexpectedly
being locked inside their DeLorean's. (See my article at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/3755/doorlock.html )
The Lockzilla does not have this voltage leak problem.
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Grimsrud, Knut S <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: [DML] Door lock module contributing to battery drain
>
> In trying to track down this power trickle, what I found was that the door
> lock module on my car draws the additional 11mA of current. I haven't
> disassembled or reverse-engineered the module yet to understand why it
draws
> a trickle current, but it appears to do so. I'm not sure if the LockZilla
> similarly draws a trickle current as I only have stock door lock modules
in
> my cars.
>
> If you suffer from inexplicable battery drain for a car that's stored for
> periods, the door lock module appears to be one of the contributors to the
> problem. I still need to recheck my measurements this weekend, but it
> appears that removing the clock/radio fuse and unplugging the door lock
> module may be sufficient to avoid battery drain without the need for
> installation of battery cutoff switches, trickle chargers, etc.
>
> Knut
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 20:12:37 EST
From: hrlyrngr1@xxxxxxx
Subject: DMCJOE
Just wondering what happened to the delorean services web site?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 08:51:23 -0800
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
Dave Swingle pointed me to a great resource that includes the door lock
module wiring diagram (see
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/doorlocks.htm). From this diagram it
appears that the leakage current I'm getting from my door lock modules is a
result of a leaky capacitor. I'm not sure if this is a leakage current
peculiar to a couple failed modules I just happen to have or if this leakage
through the caps is a common occurrence. If you have a mysterious current
drain of some 11mA that you cann't account for, you might disconnect your
door lock module to see if this is the culprit.
Knut
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 19:04:01 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
So let me get this strait now. In order to keep my fuse block
intact, (no damage to it now), I should replace the 10A fuse in my #7
with a 20A, clean out the contacts on the #7 socket thouroughly, and
periodicly inspect it for melting? What about a VERY small dab of
Dielectric grease on both pins for the fuse? I would think this
would help electrical contact and prevent corrosion, but I dont know
if there would be any ill-effects by using it with a fuse. You guys
apparently know more about this than I do, any comments?
One more electical project I'm working on this winter is hardwiring
the cooling fan circuit to go directly from +12, to the 40A breaker,
then to two relays (one for each fan), and then to thier
complimentary fan motor. Is the 40A breaker going to be sufficient,
or should I put some fuses in there for each fan while I'm at it? I
dont know if I was the source of spark for this big fuse thread, but
almost every post so far I have found quite interesting. Thanks for
the help guys!
Jim Reeve
'81 DeLorean #6960 - Now without front end panels!
AIM - Ultra2169
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 13:01:07 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
David is correct about fuse #12. Several years ago I developed a pre-wired
switch specifically to address this problem, click on the following link for
details: http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/batsav.html
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 01, 2000 12:25 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Door lock module contributing to battery drain
Normal on a Delorean is usually quite a bit more. The cause
> is the many diodes in circuit #12. It is true that a diode is like a
> "check valve" but it is a leaky one. Each one adds up to a large
> cumulative effect.They can also fail by getting more leaky not just
> open or shorted. If you are confident that you have a good
> battery(load test it) and that all of your electrical connections are
> good then the problem most likely is in circuit #12. If the battery
> is
> more than 4-5 years old and it has spent it's life 1/2 in storage and
> 1/2 being used it is probably not able to provide full capacity and a
> load test will show it. Also if there is a problem in the charging
> circuit and the battery is always undercharged it will shorten the
> life of the battery. Another source of this problem are the door
> switches. There is a rubber tip on them and with age or maybe it's no
> longer there the switch can make contact even with the doors closed.
> With the interior lights off you wouldn't see the door lights still
> on. The ultimate solution is to install a master switch with a bypass
> fused wire to the clock. Then at shows the doors can be left open and
> you don't have to worry about the battery. It is also a good theft
> deterrent if you get the one with a removable key.Most people
> unfamiliar with a Delorean would never find the battery let alone the
> master switch.If you have a measurable current in the door lock
> circuit there is a problem, it should not have a measurable draw.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757 and yes I have a master switch with clock bypass.
> To properly check the source of the current drain put an ammeter on
> the battery positive connection and observe the total current draw.
> Now one at a time pull fuses. You will find that there is draw from
> more than 1 fuse but the major amount will be drawn by #12 the door
> and interior light circuit. Typically 10 m.a. is considered normal
> for
> a car sitting, it will take a month to discharge a good fully charged
> battery.
David Teitelbaum
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2000 00:12:00 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DoorLock-wiring
With all this talk about the door-lock-module
I thought I might drop in a question too:
The Lock-Module has a connector on it with 9 pins,
on the original module there are only 8 of them in use:
* 2 times 2 for the solenoids (pins 6, 7, 8 & 9)
* a ground (pin 5)
* +12V for the electronics (pin 4)
(the thick red wire is only for the solenoids)
* a sense-wires for lock (pin 2)
* a sense-wire for unlock and the "Lock Doors"-light (pin 3)
Pin #1 is'n used or even wired on the module-side...
If I remember correctly there IS a (yellow(?)) wire connected
to pin 1 of my LockZilla, I'm not sure if this is connected on
the cars' wiring harness too, but I was wondering what this
wire could be for?
Who can enlighten me?
thanks in advance,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 14:43:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Dee Moats <Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuse Box replacement
As you can see by the date, my inbox is very large. Actually I saved this
because my D has at least three melted spots on the fuse board and this
looked like a good winter project and a way to keep the thread alive.
Dee Moats
Vin #4434
On Sat, 5 Aug 2000 11:59:13 -0400, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
The part number for the 18-circuit fuse box is part number 13ZX4007W and can
be ordered online at www.jcwhitney.com It's currently $21.95 as of today.
Matthew
VIN #10365
----- Original Message -----
Well, after some research I found a 9X2 fuse box from J.C. Whitney for under
$20 US that will fit rather nicely near where the old one should have been.
What is the part # all I saw in the catalog is a 6 fuse block for 24.95?
#03PA7115W
Ralph
Dee-Moats@xxxxxxxxxx
_______________________________________________________
Tired of slow Internet? Get @Home Broadband Internet
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 23:14:26 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cleaning your car
Firts of all thanks to the 31 people that responded to my Poll.
I'm happy to see that I'm not the only one who has trouble cleaning the glass on
his (or her) DeLorean. The interior doesn't seem to give any trouble,
or maybe that's what isn't cleaned as often as the outside of the cars ;-)
Anyway, here are the results of my poll.
POLL QUESTION:
What part of the DeLorean do you find hardest to (keep) clean?
CHOICES AND RESULTS
- Stainless Steel panels, 4 votes, 12.50%
- Plastic areas (around doors, engine-cover, louvers, trunk-area etc.), 2 votes,
6.25%
- Engine-compartment, 9 votes, 28.12%
- Wheels/rims/tyres, 9 votes, 28.12%
- Glass-sections (especially the inside of the rear-quarter-windows), 8 votes,
25.00%
- Leather/Vinyl interior-parts, 0 votes, 0.00%
- Carpeting (mats, parcelshelf etc.), 0 votes, 0.00%
- Headliners, 0 votes, 0.00%
Thanks again,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 23:20:52 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Condesating Quarter-windows
After closing my poll I'm still left with one question:
Is there anyway to keep the glass in the rear-quarter-panels
from collecting condensation?
I need to know so, because I sometimes have to leave my car
outside and I live in a humid climate (thet's putting it mildly)
The windshield is easily wiped if neccesary, but in most cases
the defroster does the trick. (and getting my airco fixed
will surely help too I guess)
On the outside however, I keep wiping off water...
I allready tried RainEx (and similar), but this doesn't really
work because of the heat coming from the engine.
On the insides of the rear windows it is most annoying,
since these are hard to reach.
Any real solution would be more than welcome,
hope to hear from you soon,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 2000 23:54:50 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuse block (was Fuses)
Jim, Part of the problem with electrical connections is they get
loose, if things are tight, then you will have less electrical
resistance in the connection and they will work properly. Grease: I
use all the time to cut down on arching. But, You can't beat a tight
connection. What DMCJOE said about #7 is a over current situation
which is best remedyed as he suggested. I will try to come up with a
plug in FIX. Ever so often unplug and plug all the fuses back in,
this will clean the contacts if time has built up any corrosion.
As far the coolant fans: The motors are $259.00 ea. from some De
Lorean dealers. I sell replacement exact bolt on fans for $159.00 ea.
But the motors that come in the car are excellent and should last a
long time. I have taken two apart so far and cleaned them, put in new
brushes, greased and put back together and work great.I would never
wire direct to the circuit breaker. It's responce time to a short is
to long. I have a plug in (Fan Fail Fix) that is fused on each leg
going to the motors for maxium protection. It should be on my site
this weekend. It's worth it. 20 amp is what the book shows to be in
#7 already.
John
www.specialTauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Jim Reeve" <ultra@xxxx> wrote:
> So let me get this strait now. In order to keep my fuse block
> intact, (no damage to it now), I should replace the 10A fuse in my
#7
> with a 20A, clean out the contacts on the #7 socket thouroughly,
and
> periodicly inspect it for melting? What about a VERY small dab of
> Dielectric grease on both pins for the fuse? I would think this
> would help electrical contact and prevent corrosion, but I dont
know
> if there would be any ill-effects by using it with a fuse. You
guys
> apparently know more about this than I do, any comments?
>
> One more electical project I'm working on this winter is hardwiring
> the cooling fan circuit to go directly from +12, to the 40A
breaker,
> then to two relays (one for each fan), and then to thier
> complimentary fan motor. Is the 40A breaker going to be
sufficient,
> or should I put some fuses in there for each fan while I'm at it?
I
> dont know if I was the source of spark for this big fuse thread,
but
> almost every post so far I have found quite interesting. Thanks
for
> the help guys!
>
> Jim Reeve
> '81 DeLorean #6960 - Now without front end panels!
> AIM - Ultra2169
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