Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Shift knob and other accessories
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Radio
From: "Craig Clarke" <delorean007@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Radio
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Oil Sending Unit
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
5. Dual speed alternator prototype
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
6. Delorean Article
From: madmap70@xxxxxx
7. Door seal
From: <mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Climate control problem
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Car will not start
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Comparison (with other DMCs!)
From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Oil Sending Unit
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Minnesota Fall Delorean get together
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Oil Sending Unit
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Sending Unit teflon tape
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
15. Re: Oil Pan Gasket
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Oil Pan Gasket
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Shift knob and other accessories
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. DeLorean page updated
From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. Shift linkage adjustment
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: DeLorean Safety Vehicle (TRANSLATED!!!)
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Car will not start
From: "JDL" <jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Coasting and pulsating
From: jdsjlv@xxxxxxx
23. Voltage problem
From: dmcdelorean2@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 23:33:32 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Shift knob and other accessories
Chris wrote,
I have found a Momo aluminum/
carbon fiber knob which i really like but am nsure if it will fit the
threads.
---------------------------
The Momo shift knob will work. I have the black leather Momo installed on my
car.
Robert Starling
Vin#05252
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 21:30:09 MDT
From: "Craig Clarke" <delorean007@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio
Willie
A standard DIN chassis will fit with a little modification.
Worked for me.
Craig
>From: Willie Mack <wmack@xxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Radio
>Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 22:29:10 -0400
>
>
>Does anyone know the size of receiver that fits in Deloreans? I am
>thinking
>of putting in a cd player but i don't know what size fits.
>Thanks
> Willie
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:56:39 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio
I replaced the radio in my Delorean with a new Alpine unit model CDA-7863,
and there is still at least an inch or so more room in the back. The specs
for the Alpine say the chassis depth is 155mm (6-1/8"). This is valid for
models 7965, 7864, 7862, & 7862. I think you are safe with any CD player
that does not have a built in changer. But I would do some measuring before
you buy anything deeper than 7". Hope this puts things in perspective.
Also, before you go hacking up your original dash to take a DIN radio, you
might want to keep that aside and buy a reproduction dash piece through
Mid-State's website that is already pre-cut to take a DIN radio. Unless you
are good at cutting sheet metal, I suggest buying the pre-cut DIN model
instead of trying to convert your OEM two-post radio bracket.
If you need help mounting the radio, read the back issues where I explain
how I made spacers to mount mine.
Walt Tampa, FL
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:55:21 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Sending Unit
I think this is one of those six-pack questions... meaning that there is no
clear answer and it takes a six pack of beer for each member involved in the
conversation to reach any kind of agreement.
The official answer probably is that there should be no teflon tape added to
the connection because this could insulate or cause an intermittent
connection. But in real world situations, that fitting is holding back up
to 70+ psi of hot oil. A steel-on-steel thread connection with no pipe dope
is bound to leak in my opinion.
Here is my solution:
I bought the same sending unit that you did from the same source. I'm
waiting for my next oil change before I put it on. The job will be a lot
easier with the oil filter removed. I'm going to put my oil pressure
sending unit on a brass 45 degree elbow. I'm doing this for two reasons:
1) it gets the sending unit out of the way of the oil filter. Even though
the new sending unit is smaller and probably won't be in the way of the
filter any more, at this point I really don't care. It's getting the brass
fitting anyway.
2) a steel-on-brass pipe connection is far less leak prone than a
steel-on-steel connection with no teflon or pipe dope.
3) Yeah, I know -- I only had two reasons, but here's a third reason... The
brass pipe extension I am using consists of two pieces. The first is a
1"x1/8th" brass nipple. The second is a 45 degree elbow with female treads
on both ends. I am using this instead of what is available at auto parts
stores for several reasons.
1) I already have it on hand. I bought it at Home Depot by the way.
2) It is made of brass. I'm not sure if what the auto parts stores sell is
brass or not. I don't like cast brass because I've seen porous castings
that leak, and what I bought at Home Depot is not cast.
3) The elbow has flat sides on it to take an opened end wrench which makes
it easier to install. Other fittings require a pipe wrench or pliers.
3) What I am using is standard 1/8th" brass water pipe. Coincidentally, the
Delorean uses the same thread on this fitting.
4) Since what I am using is two fittings screwed together instead of one
'street' fitting like what the auto parts stores sell, it will allow me more
turns to point the whole assembly in a direction away from the oil filter
without over or under tightening it.
Do I get too wordy or what? shessh...
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 22:33:32 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Dual speed alternator prototype
I've installed one of those 140amp John Hervy 'signature series' alternators
in my Delorean, and it works great. But any alternator cannot perform at
it's peak at low RPMs. That's why I'm thinking up a way to make a two speed
transmission for use on any Delorean alternator.
The traditional fix to boost low RPM output is to put a smaller pulley on
the alternator so it will spin faster. But there is a limit to this since
the poor alternator could be spinning so fast at high RPMs that it could fly
apart!
My transmission design would involve building a 'gear box' that would be
mounted below the alternator. The belt that drives the alternator would
then be moved to this gear box, and a second belt would connect the gear box
back to the alternator.
The input and output pulleys on this gear box would be mounted to shafts
which would have two rubber wheels per shaft mounted like dually tires.
Then there would be two sliding rubber wheels which would side independently
of each other via solenoids. At low engine RPMs, one wheel would engage.
At higher engine RPMs, the other wheel would engage. These 'engaging'
wheels would mechanically couple to the input and output shaft assemblies.
The 'dually tires' would be different size diameters to give the different
alternator speeds.
I know this sounds like a Rube Goldberg contraption. But can any of you
follow this? Maybe I'll build one of these in a few years after I have more
of my other projects finished. Eventually my driveway will have a gate that
opens like the iris on Stargate SG-1. It will be made of stainless steel,
of course. Cool, eh?
Does anyone have any ideas or comments?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 01:17:01 EDT
From: madmap70@xxxxxx
Subject: Delorean Article
For those interested, there is a article in the September issue of GQ
magazine on John Delorean. It discusses his past with GM, creation of the
car we all know and love and his newest venture of producing two new sports
cars. It mentions that one of the cars may be built in Italy. Check it out.
Mark D.
16728
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 00:58:10 -0700
From: <mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door seal
Does anybody have a small used section of inner door seal available. I have a small section on the drivers side that is coming apart and would like to splice in another piece to replace it. The rest of the seals are o.k. so I really don't want to buy the whole thing.
Thanks
Mike Atkinson
vin16232
mikeatk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 05:15:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Climate control problem
On 6 Sep 2000 00:06:19 -0000, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:02:21 -0400
> From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Climate Control Problem
>
> John,
>
> The blower would only blow in the wrong direction if you recently
replaced it with a non DeLorean blower. To determine if you have a vacuum or
mode switch problem do the following test.
>
> Start the engine with the doors closed and the blower fan set to (1)
rotate the mode switch through all of its positions. You should hear the
various air deflector doors inside the AC unit opening and closing as you
switch different modes. If no motion is heard you either have a defective
mode switch or no vacuum feeding the switch.
>
> "We're here to help you"
>
> DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
> Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Yeoman
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2000 1:50 PM
> Subject: [DML] Climate Control Problem
>
>
> Hey List, I have a problem with not just the a/c, but
> the heater and the vent, and every other selection on
> the mode switch. I have no air coming out any of my
> vents on any fan speeds. I do however have air coming
> out from somewhere under the dash, and I hear the
> blower come on and change speeds when I turn the fan
> speed switch. The air that is coming out from under
> the dash changes temperature when I go from heater to
> a/c, and I replaced the mode switch a few years ago
> because when I would turn to heat I'd get a/c, and
> vice wersa, so I'd guess this is not caused by a
> defective mode switch. Am I correct? Would this be
> most likely caused by a blower blowing the wrong
> direction? Thanks in advance.
>
> John Yeoman
>
> With a/c, but not in the right place :)
John,
I have the exact same problem with my car! Currently, I have no A/C due
to an unrelated compressor problem. Anyways, the last two days have been
cool here so I have tested the heater. I can feel warm air under the dash,
but it is not coming from any of the vents and is very weak. The fan motor
makes a lot of noise, but i assume if I feel warm air it is blowing the
right way?!? Turning the control knob seems to make very little difference
in the flow of air(which is next to none). Sometimes I can turn to defrost
and get weak flow out of defroster vents. With this in mind, I guess I can
rule out a vacum problem and a blower problem and concentrate on the Mode
switch. Am I right? Joe/James/Marty--What do you guys think? Contact me off
list if necessary. Thanks.
Nate
Nathan E. Green
gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 09:01:20 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car will not start
It seems strange to suggest solutions to a problem that has already been solved,
but to make a back issues a bit more complete I want to addone comment:
The electrical connection from the wiring harness to the fuel pump does not last
forever. This past spring mine wore out, giving me intermittent fuel pump
power. It is a simple matter to replace this connection with a sturdier one.
I suggest that anyone with a non functioning fuel pump first check the inertia
switch, then the connection to the pump.
- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, 7 years
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 00:06:37 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Comparison (with other DMCs!)
Mike,
That sounds about right. However, let me just clear up that my Professor was NOT driving a
competition tuned 911 at the time we raced each other. He does race those but his car is a wimpy
little 1982 911 SC. Still, that should put him (roughly) in the same category as me, speed wise, but
it didn't. Like I said before, I don't know why Dad's car is fast and mine is slow when we have them
tuned by the same guy, but they are.
By the way, you have a very interesting hypothesis about the monkey wrench in the Porsche
thing...The Volvo dealership I go to also services Porsches and Audis! Hmmm!! (hehe)
By the way, you wrote a great recap of the Cleveland show for D World this quarter...I couldn't
put it down!
-Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
Mike Substelny wrote:
> Maybe your Volvo technician threw a monkey wrench into the Porsche?
>
> Seriously, the DeLorean does perform about equal to a Porsche 944 or 924S, and better than a
> Porsche 924 or 914. But the only inexpensive way to make a DeLorean beat a competition tuned 911
> would be a nitrous oxide system, which could not operate without the driver's knowledge.
>
> - Mike Substelny
> VIN 01280, 7 years
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 14:49:38 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Sending Unit
I also recently put Marty's oil pressure sender into my car. I used
teflon tape. Although it might seem like you are insulating the unit
from ground in the process of tightening up the threads it will make
contact unless you wrapped it way too thick. Be sure not to cover the
end with the tape or it will plug up the hole in the end and if you
remove it get all of the shards of tape out of the threads. This is
the biggest reason not to use the tape, if you take things apart the
pieces of tape can get caught in the system. On hydralic systems I
use
a special dope that is an anaerobic sealer. BTW the sender unit is
great, the gauge actually reads as you idle and increases as the
rpm's
increase.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Scot Stern" <SGSKBM@xxxx> wrote:
> This one is probably too simple for all concerned. Should the
> threads of the oil sending unit be wrapped with tefleon tape? If
so,
> how does the unit get its ground? If not, does it leak?
>
> I recently replaced my original with a Mid-States upgraded one
> designed for the oil pressure gauge and I have been wondering about
> the correct procedure.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Scot 6452
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:55:49 -0500
From: "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Minnesota Fall Delorean get together
Just a reminder to everyone interested, there is a Delorean get-together at
Deer Lake Orchard, Buffalo MN, scheduled for Sept 17th (Sunday). There will
be free
entertainment, petting zoo (check out the miniature horse (about 30" and its
baby), a hay stack for climbing and wagon rides. There will be food
available and lots of great apples.
The Orchard is open 10:00 - 6:30 and there is a caravan of cars coming from
the Minneapolis area (contact Jim Reeve for more details). All owners and
enthusiasts are welcome.
We look forward to seeing you there,
Nick Kemp
763-682-6159
For more information including directions, visit www.deerlakeorchard.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 16:47:41 EDT
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oil Sending Unit
Scot,
Whenever I replace an oil sending unit, I use Teflon paste on the
threads. This seals the threads from leaks yet allows the sending unit to
make good contact with the engine for proper electrical operation. Haven't
had a grounding problem yet.
Marty
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 20:01:55 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Sending Unit teflon tape
In a message dated 9/6/00 10:51:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< The official answer probably is that there should be no teflon tape added
to
the connection because this could insulate or cause an intermittent
connection. >>
Speaking from plumbing rather than automotive experience, the threads will
likely cut thru the contact surfaces and make a connection possible. The
tape will just cram into the voids. After all, the threads are designed to
be watertight, ideally, even with no tape or dope. To be sure, I'd probably
prefer to use liquid teflon pipe dope on the threads, or regular pipe dope.
-Wayne
"Living the dream!"
11174
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 10:55:54 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Gasket
Willie--
Before you do this, check the oil sender (located on the driver side of the
engine, has a small wire running to it) these are notoriously bad for
leaking and causing the exact symptoms of a bad oil pan gasket.
Scott
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 10:43:57 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Gasket
In a message dated 9/5/00 8:18:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< Is there any easy
way to gain access to those bolts? or do i have to loosen the entire
engine? >>
I'm glad to hear the D has such a great pan gasket, but I for one would still
like to hear the answer to this question.
-Wayne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 08:22:13 -0700
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shift knob and other accessories
Chris.
Try filling in the shift pattern with paint. I did this years ago by puting
on several coats of fast drying white lacquer. While I tried to get most of
it in the grooves it was not necessary to be precise. After it is dry,
simply sand off the entire knob with progressivly 220 grit and then 400 grit
to remove the paint that missed the grooves. The finished result is much
more attractive and as an additional benefit has a much better (quality)
feel.
Enjoy,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris C" <petleech@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 2:52 PM
Subject: [DML] Shift knob and other accessories
> I know this may sound unimportant to many, but is there a different
> shift knob for th DMC? That black one just looks boring and
> uninteresting in my opinion although it has served me well, I would
> like a stainless or an aluminum one. I have found a Momo aluminum/
> carbon fiber knob which i really like but am nsure if it will fit the
> threads. Has anyone changed shift knobs or know the thread size on
> the DeLorean? Are there any shift knobs available?
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 20:31:31 +0200
From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean page updated
I've updated my DeLorean Page with pictures from the German
DeLorean-Meeting (33 cars) and my "motor-out-for-repair" job.
Klaus Steiner
VIN-5980- Germany
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 19:45:21 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Shift linkage adjustment
Does anyone here know the size of the nut on the shift linkage cable
that's used for adjustment? I've tried using pliers, but the handle's
are always too long to rotate the nut once I do get a grip on it. All
of my open-end wrenches are American and none fit, so I'm guessing
that the nut is metric (probably 10mm like almost everything else,
but I just wanted to check first). Also, does anyone have any
suggestions on loosening this nut? Any ideas would really be
appriciated!
-Robert
vin 6585
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 20:44:41 -0000
From: "Jan van de Wouw" <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Safety Vehicle (TRANSLATED!!!)
On Mon, 04 Sep 2000 00:04:57 -0400, Brian Henderlog wrote on the DML:
>Found this website about the "DeLorean Safety Vehicle"
>while surfing tonight...
>http://www.t.kth.se/t98_emm/fart/dsv.htm
On Tue, 05 Sep 2000 04:02:35 GMT, John Giedosh wrote on the DML:
>Hi DML, I found this picture,
[snip]
>When I first saw this picture, I wondered about the grill elmblem,
>and the other B/W picture clears that up.
>What langwage is the b/w picture typed in?
Hello,
the texts were in Swedish;
the pages reside on a server from a Swedish University.
Allthough I do not speak or write Swedish,
I DID make a translation of the page.
Since a lot of the Scandinavian languages SOUND
like badly pronounced Dutch, this wasn't too hard.
I also had some help from on-line Dictionaries.
The translated page can be found on:
<http://www.vdwouw.demon.nl/dsv/>
Hope this helps you all!
Greetings from the Netherlands,
JAN van de Wouw
Think Different... Use a Mac...
Live the Dream... Drive a DeLorean...
check out the Delorean-Files at:
http://www.deloreanfiles.nl/
------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 16:50:05 -0400
From: "JDL" <jdl@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car will not start
Sorry for re-sending delorean stuff...but here is where the inertia switch
apparently is...
----- Original Message -----
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Car will not start
> JIM,
>
> IT'S POSSIBLE THE FUEL PUMP ISN'T RUNNING I GUESS. THE COLD START VALVE
WILL
> OPEN AND DUMP WHAT FUEL IS STILL IN THE LINES AND YOU MAY HAVE JUST RUN IT
> OUT OF FUEL. HOWEVER THIS IS ONLY A GUESS. YOU CAN CHECK THE FUEL PUMP
> OPPERATION BY:
>
> 1. CHECK THE INERTIA SWITCH. IT'S ON THE KICK PANEL TO THE LEFT OF THE
> PEDALS. THE RED BUTTON SHOULD BE PUSHED DOWN. THE ORIGINALS WERE BAD AND
> WERE REPLACED IN A RECALL. IF THE SWITCH IS BEHIND THE STEERING COLUME YOU
> MAY HAVE THE OLD INFERIOR SWITCH. YOU MAY HAVE TO UNPLUG IT AND JUMP THE
> WIRES. IF THAT'S NOT THE PROBLEM THEN:
>
>
> 2. GO INTO THE ELECTRICAL AREA BEHIND THE PASSENGER SEAT. CHECK FUSE
NUMBER
> 7 FIRST. IF THAT'S OK DO THIS NEXT:
>
> 3. LOCATE THE RPM REALAY. IT'S CLIPPED UNDER THE BOARD THE RELAYS ARE
> MOUNTED ON ALONG THE DRIVERS SIDE EDGE. IF YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO JUMP
> CONNECTIONS N30 AND 87 ( LARGE BROWN WIRE AND PURPLE/ WHITE ) WHILE THE
> RELAY IS STILL PLUGGED IN YOU SHOULD HEAR THE PUMP RUNNING. IF IT DOES RUN
> TRY STARTING THE ENGINE. IF IT RUNS WITH THE JUMPER BUT NOT WITHOUT, THE
RPM
> RELAY IS BAD. YOU CAN DRIVE HOME THIS WAY BUT THE PUMP IS GOING TO RUN
> CONTINUALY UNTIL THE JUMPER IS REMOVED. THOSE ARE THE ONLY SUGGESTIONS I
CAN
> THINK OF RIGHT NOW. IT SOUNDS AS THOUGH THE IGNITIONIS OK.
>
> BRUCE
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 17:12:52 EDT
From: jdsjlv@xxxxxxx
Subject: Coasting and pulsating
With all of the posts regarding hesitation, ect. I figured I would comment on
how my D pulsates while coasting. Yesterday I was cruising down a flat road
in my home town. I had my foot resting on the accelerator and I was in 3rd
gear. My RPM's were right on the 2100 mark and my speedo read 35 MPH. What I
felt was a slight pulsation, almost as if the car was trying to keep up with
the pace given the consistent placement of the accelerator. If I pressed down
more on the pedal or released it, nothing out of the ordinary would happen,
either it would accelerate strong or decelerate accordingly. My question is
this: given that the D is a CFI engine (right?) would this explain the
pulsating at a consistent speed? I don't feel it unless I really concentrate
on it, or If I go slow enough. Last year I had my micro switch (the one near
the accelerator spool) replaced and my car is properly serviced. Has anyone
experienced this before? To better explain the feeling behind the wheel,
imagine sitting in a chair and ever so gently moving forward and backward -
that's what it feels like! Any ideas???
Thanks,
Joshua D. Schwartz
001292
Trumbull, CT
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 18:12:45 EDT
From: dmcdelorean2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Voltage problem
Hello,
It seems that when the engine starts that the gauge for the battery just
stays at 13 or under. I had the alternator rebuilt and it still doesn't work.
Any suggestions of any type? Anyone know what the problem is?
Chris
11388
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