Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Simple questions...
From: alarmer1@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Hacking dash for radio
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Oil Filter
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
4. RE: Oil Filter
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Oil Filter
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: Toll Both Window Benefits
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Simple questions...
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Cigarette lighter
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Cigarette lighter
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Window Motor
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: Doors
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
12. Door opening caveats
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Engine Upgarde (Was: Project...)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. Attaching additional accessories (was "Garage Door Opener Dilemma Solved!")
From: Knut Grimsrud <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Oil Filter
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Evaporative Control System
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Door Open Height
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: DeLorean Book
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Re: Cigarette lighter
From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
20. RE: Toll Both Window Benefits
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. RE: Cigarette lighter
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. RE: Toll Both Window Benefits
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Blower Fan only works on #4 - Help
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Temperature guage dead
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Dead Speedometer
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 04:05:49 EDT
From: alarmer1@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Simple questions...
Headliner replacement is fairly easy on Deloreans, it could be done by a
novice in about 2 hours or so.
do not try to re-glue the headliner, just replace the material.
you can probably find the headliner material at a fabric store or at a Pep
boys auto parts store.
the headliner on the door is held on by plastic push in fasteners like those
found on door panels, just be sure to use a panel puller tool.
once your headliner is off remove all the old fabric.
now you will have to remove all the old glue and excess materiel off of the
headliner shell, I use a DA sander for this but I have found out that a
plastic bristle scrub brush works well.
make sure surface of your headliner shell is clean before you lay the new
headliner down.
now this is the tricky part, since the shell is deep in the middle you will
have to start from the center and work your way out with the material, it
might take a few tries to get it right. Tip: take some spray adhesive and
spray very lightly on the shell, let set a few seconds and lay the new
material down, just to get the hang of it. by spraying lightly the material
should come off easy.
Now you have had some practice at it, to get the fabric to stick permanently
spray the shell and headliner fabric with some good spray adhesive like 3-M
trim adhesive, wait a few seconds until the adhesive gets tacky and lay the
fabric from the center out. Tip: make sure your hands are clean when laying
the new fabric down.
Material cost
Headliner kit: Pep boys $29.00 or
Headliner fabric: fabric store $5.00 to $8.00 per yard
3M spray trim adhesive: auto parts store $8.00 per can
hope this helps you out,
Mike G
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 06:02:45 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Hacking dash for radio
I initially had reservations about cutting the radio hole larger to take a
conventional radio. But I really couldn't imagine anyone wanting to restore
the dash on my car to take the factory radio. That style of radio is sooooo
obsolete.
The part of the dash that needs to be modified could be easily made from
scratch, so if you really want to save your old one, then you could make a
new one out of two pieces of sheet metal spot welded together. The hardest
part would be duplicating the black wrinkle finish. But not much of that
finish shows anyway. I bet you could glue some black upholstery vinyl over
the sheet metal, and it would look as good as original (or better).
I mounted the latest top-of-the-line Alpine system in my dash. I just used
some 'tin snips' and a file. If you haven't done a job like that before,
then be sure you use the right cutting tools. For those of you who don't
know, there are both right sided and left sided as well as center sided
metal cutting scissors a/k/a 'tin snips'. Probably the best tool for
cutting such a hole is a sheet metal nibbler. It subtracts nice little
chunks of metal without bending up the surrounding metal that you want to
save. If you have any reservations about this, just go to a sheet metal
shop. Any shop that makes sheet metal air conditioning ductwork would have
all the necessary tools and expertise. Another good place to look would be
a shop that specializes in custom stainless steel counter-top fabrication
for restaurants. Every major city in the US probably has such a shop. A
good shop could even fabricate a whole new dash piece with the exception of
the black wrinkle finish.
Would I trust the best custom stereo shop in town to cut on my dash? NEVER!
When I mounted the new radio in my dash, I held the radio in place with two
metric bolts on either side of the radio. I made 1" spacers out of 1/4"
brass water pipe which I bought at Home Depot. Two spacers on each side of
the radio holds it firmly in place. I didn't even bother re-connecting the
strap on the back. It didn't seem to add any stability to the factory radio
in the first place and seems totally unnecessary. I suppose it would slow
down a radio theif for maybe as long as it would take him to hold his foot
against the dash and pull real hard on the radio.
By the way.... does anyone want to buy a Craig stereo cassette player out of
an '81 Delorean with 9000 miles on it? Does such a radio even have a market
value? Everything on the radio works except the tape player keeps reversing
the direction of the tape every couple of minutes. I suppose this is due to
an old dried out belt. (I had the same problem on an old Delco GM cassette
player. When I replaced the belt, that fixed the problem.) When I removed
the radio, I saved all the knobs, spacers, nuts, and even the Delorean side
of the electrical harness just incase someone wanted to restore a car to
factory original. (yawn)
Walt
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 06:40:40 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter
Tom,
I had the exact same problem with my oil filter. The new filter was just a
speck wider than the OEM filter, so the oil pressure sending unit was barely
in the way of it. Since the sending unit was faulty anyway, I took it off
and replaced it with a 1/4" brass water pipe plug. While at the hardware
store, I bought a short 1/4" pipe nipple and a 45 degree elbow. When I put
it all back together, my oil pressure sending unit will stick away from the
oil filter at an angle. Remember that since this pipe thread is also an
electrical connection for the return ground, I recommend NOT using any pipe
dope. Also, brass pipe is a better conductor for this ground as opposed to
galvanized pipe, and the softer threads allow you to point the sending unit
in a convent direction after it is snugged up.
I did an autopsy on the sending unit and found out why it died. Basically,
the sending unit uses a rheostat hooked to a lever arm/diaphragm
arrangement. The whole set up was so mickey mouse that it bent, jammed, and
fell apart. And it had less than 9000 miles on it! Upon experimentation, I
figured that the unit gives 1 ohm per PSI of oil pressure. So zero ohms
means zero PSI, and 80 ohms gives a full scale reading. The next time I
fool with it, I'll check it again to be sure. All I need is a new oil
pressure sending unit that yields 1 ohm per PSI. I'm sure something
American made would fit that description. I hate spending big bucks for a
Volvo part when something American would be the same thing at a cheaper
price. Has anyone else done the math?
As for how much oil you loose in the process? I'm not sure because when I
had mine apart, I had already drained the oil. I expect that you wouldn't
loose very much because the port for the sending unit is mounted relatively
high on the crank case. If I were you, I would keep what you got until you
are ready for another oil change. I know this sounds ridiculous, but since
the sending unit is only slightly in the way, you could probably get away
with bending it slightly toward the rear of the engine. Naaah, forget I
said that. The safe thing to do would be to buy only original OEM Delorean
filters, but I would rather pay less money for a better filter.
And if all else fails... if it jams, then force it. If it breaks, then it
needed replacing anyway.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 09:58:20 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Oil Filter
The oil filters that I get at my local Volvo Dealer are Volvo part#
3517857-3.
You can buy a brass fitting that will create the desired angle of the oil
sending unit so that it will not make contact with the larger oil filter.
Make sure that you use a brass adapter, as steel will cause damage to the
aluminum casing. You can get the brass fitting at most auto parts stores.
Robert Starling
Vin#05252
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Watkins watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 7:50 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Oil Filter
After looking for the "right" oil filter I decided to go to a Volvo
shop and bought what I thought was a Volvo Filter. Question, this
filter is white with Blue lettering and reads "Meets or exceeds Volvo
replaces 3517857-3" underneath a bunch of translations it reads"not
affliated with Volvo" Is this a Volvo filter or what?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 10:19:48 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter
Tom,
Most auto company's do not manufacture oil filters. The companies contract major manufacturers, such as Fram, Purolator, and Wix to supply them with filters and than have their name stamped on the filter. I believe Wix, a major supplier of filters to many company's, is the current supplier of Volvo oil filters.
Don't be concerned about the filter coming into contact with your oil pressure sender, this is a common situation and will not have any adverse effects on either component.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Watkins watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 7:50 PM
Subject: [DML] Oil Filter
After looking for the "right" oil filter I decided to go to a Volvo
shop and bought what I thought was a Volvo Filter. Question, this
filter is white with Blue lettering and reads "Meets or exceeds Volvo
replaces 3517857-3" underneath a bunch of translations it reads"not
affliated with Volvo" Is this a Volvo filter or what?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 10:27:29 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Toll Both Window Benefits
Christopher,
I don't quite understand what you are saying. When the DeLorean doors are fully open, the highest point of the doors, which is the mirror, is less than 6 ft. Are you saying that the roof of the drive trough's is less than 6 feet high.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher M. Hawes
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Toll Both Window Benefits
Robert vin 6585,
I liked your favourable comments in regard to the gullwing/toll booth
windows.
I found your fast food example rather amusing as some of the fast
food drive-in places in the UK have a low roof section to shield the cars
from the rain and an inexperienced DeLorean owner not knowing how much
height clearance is needed would pull up flick the door open switch and hear
the
'crack' of the door mirror and scrapping of stainless steel as it is
elevated into the roof of the drive-in - ye - ouch -!!!!!
Attention is GREAT when is of the right kind!!!
Just a thought!
Christopher M. Hawes
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 10:35:16 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Simple questions...
John,
Repairing a sagging headliner is not repairable. You will need to have your local reliable upholstery shop install new headliner fabric on the headliner cores. If you would like to make your DeLorean headliners look factory new you might considering purchasing our "all new" fiberglass core headliners manufactured by PJ Grady New York.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 4:06 PM
Subject: [DML] Simple questions...
Hello
I was wondering how you fix a sagging headliner above the driver. Also, later
on I will have simple questions..
Thanks,
John Feldman
VIN 4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 10:44:56 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter
Jimmy,
Accessing the underside of your cigarette lighter can be easy or simple depending on weather your DeLorean Is an automatic or manual transmission.
The manual set-up simply requires you to remove the two Philips head screws at the base of the shift boot trim plate, unscrew and remove the shifter ball and lift the trim plate clear of the shifter. You will now be able to access the connections at the underside of the lighter.
If you have an automatic trans this procedure will be much more difficult due to the rather complex remove and replace procedure of the shifter set-up.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 2:53 PM
Subject: [DML] Cigarette lighter
I was wondering if anyone on the list knows how to get under the cigarette
lighter. When I had some work on the air conditioner, the mechanic forgot to
reconnect the lighter. Now it does not work. It worked perfectly before. I
could just bring it back to him and have him do it, but I would like to do it
on my own to bypass the hassal of bring the car there. Just in case if
anyone is wondering, I don't smoke and would never let anyone smoke in my
DeLorean. I use the lighter for a power supply for my radar. Any help would
be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Jimmy
VIN#15880
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 15:11:27 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cigarette lighter
In front of the window switches, on the cover plate where the gear
shifter (or selector) is at, there are 2 screws. Remove both screws,
and pull up on the cover plate. From here you should be able pull up
the front portion of the console to reach the electrical connections
for the cigarette lighter. BTW, have you already checked the fuse to
make sure it's alright?
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, jimbo0946@xxxx wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone on the list knows how to get under the
cigarette
> lighter. When I had some work on the air conditioner, the mechanic
forgot to
> reconnect the lighter. Now it does not work. It worked perfectly
before. I
> could just bring it back to him and have him do it, but I would
like to do it
> on my own to bypass the hassal of bring the car there. Just in
case if
> anyone is wondering, I don't smoke and would never let anyone smoke
in my
> DeLorean. I use the lighter for a power supply for my radar. Any
help would
> be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
> Jimmy
> VIN#15880
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 08:38:08 -0700
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Window Motor
Dear DMC Joe,
Point well made. There are some very sharp edges on the stainless and
leting blood often in not my idea of fun. Best to use the best parts
available when possible.
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Window Motor
> Don,
>
> Many owners, like yourself, have the tools, know-how, and ability to
remove and replace a DeLorean window regulator, not to mention performing a
repair procedure on these poorly designed originals. For others this can be
an extremely labor intensive fru
> strating project. I have seen many DeLorean doors with dings in the
stainless caused by an incorrect installation.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 11:53:36 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Doors
Dave,
In your response for additional comments I would like to add that, in addition to what you mentioned, concerning damaging or destroying the rear window, stainless roof section, torsion bar and bar mountings there is also the danger of personal injury.
The edge of the stainless "T" roof section will act like a cutting blade if a persons finger is in the area of a launched torsion bar anchor plate. In the event of a glass brake the effect is the same as smashing a piece of glass with a hammer, shattered glass will fly everywhere.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Swingle
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 3:39 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Doors
The proper doors shocks are only obtainable from any of the DeLorean
vendors - they are a custom-made DeLorean reproduction part. Change
them before adjusting the doors unless you KNOW they are less than 2-
3 years old.
The original shocks have date-codes on them, something like 13-81
implies 13th week of 1981 or similar. Reproduction shocks may have
the date code or may be unlabeled.
I'll let Joe jump in on the doors, but in my opinion the adjusting
procedure is vulnerable enough to mistake that it would be improper
to verbally detail here
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 12:02:54 -0400
From: Ann & Ed Thompson <rapparivarat@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door opening caveats
> "Christopher M. Hawes" wrote:
>
> some of the fast food drive-in places in the UK have a low roof section
> to shield the cars from the rain and an inexperienced DeLorean owner not
> knowing how much height clearance is needed would pull up flick the door
> open switch and hear the 'crack' of the door mirror and scrapping of
> stainless steel as it is elevated into the roof of the drive-in
Wow! Just how low are these "low roof sections"? The DeLorean door, when
fully opened, has an elevation of slightly less than 5'10" from grade (not
counting the mirror). This means that most any pickup truck or van would
not clear the roof. And many people (including myself) would bump their
heads when walking by. I would not think the building code would allow
that low of a roof over a drive-thru.
As an aside, most people think that it is impossible to get out of a DeLorean
in a close quarters parking situation when in fact the door only extends about
11" from the car as it opens, and only about 6" when fully opened. This would
actually make it easier to get out of than a conventional door which would have
to open considerably more that 11" in order to get out. For example, the door
on my 4-door family sedan extends over 3 feet when fully opened. A 2-door
would extend even more.
Ed Thompson (#6419 since 1982)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 12:45:01 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine Upgarde (Was: Project...)
Marc,
No; the upgraded LH Jetronic fuel system in the B-280F PRV-6 improves the fuel system but has little effect on power output. The additional horses come from modified internal engine modifications; i.e.. higher lift cam and larger valves that increase to compression ratio to 9.05:1.
The B-280F from the Volvo 760 is not an option because the engine configuration will not fit the DeLorean without extensive modification.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Marc A Levy
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2000 3:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Engine Upgrade (Was: Project...)
Can the new 760 GLE upgrades be transferred to the DMC?
DMC Joe wrote:
> For the record; the last PRV-6 was introduced in late 1987 as the
> B-280F, several additional improvements and a new fuel management
> system boosted the horsepower to 245hp. This engine was last used
> in the Volvo 760 GLE in 1990.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 11:08:05 -0700
From: Knut Grimsrud <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Attaching additional accessories (was "Garage Door Opener Dilemma Solved!")
James' message reminded me of a simple circuit I built and installed in my daily driver car (outlined in the DeCO Newsletter back issues available in the FAQ at www.dmcnews.com) that provides control for two additional on/off accessories without any new switches added to the car (same idea as re-using the flash-to-pass control). In my case I added a "flash" function to the existing window switches. The additional circuits are activated by a quick tap on the window switch and does not interfere with regular window switch function. The circuit is general purpose and allows control of most on/off items. In my case I have a cooling fan override controlled by the one switch and the other is currently unused (but the garage door opener is a great idea).
Knut
>
> This message reminded of something I read somewhere (heer on the DML,
> maybe?) about a way to wire your garage door opener to the high beam
> relay so that when you approached the garage door, you only had the
> use the "flash to pass" control on the high beams (pull back briefly
> on the stalk) to activate it. Seems simple enough to devise - John
> Hervey, can you tell us how to do it?
>
> James
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 15:55:59 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oil Filter
Actually, the factory sending unit wasn't accurate. It reads too high. This
is why the pressure gauge stays up near the upper end most of the time.
Marty Maier has researched this extensively and used a mechanical gauge to
verify this. He located a sending unit with the correct characteristics to
produce *accurate* measurements that agree with the mechanical gauge.
He is offering the replacement sender at the Mid-State DeLorean Club web
site at http://www.midstatedmc.com/ under Parts.
Mark Noeltner
VIN 6820
At 06:40 AM 8/6/00 -0400, Walter wrote:
>. All I need is a new oil
>pressure sending unit that yields 1 ohm per PSI. I'm sure something
>American made would fit that description. I hate spending big bucks for a
>Volvo part when something American would be the same thing at a cheaper
>price. Has anyone else done the math?
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2000 21:27:48 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Evaporative Control System
When ever I increase the idle on the engine, the carbon canister
doesn't appear to purge itself of the recovered vapors. The odd part
about this is that if I manually apply a vaccum to the canister, the
engine will rev up as the vapors are released and burned. When I rev
the engine I can feel a good vaccum from the hose the connects up the
intake manifold. But it is not as strong as the one that I have to
apply to open the canister. From this I have 2 questions: 1. Is this
normal and theres a problem w/the vaccum line, or does having to
apply a STRONG vaccum to the canister an indication of it being
defective? Any ideas would be greatly appriciated!
-Robert
vin 6585
p.s. I really do need to remedy this as quickly as possible. After an
hour or two out in the heat, the gas tank begins to build up an
excessive amount of positive pressure. On Friday when I pulled into
my garage I had to remove my gas cap just relive all the pressure.
While doing so the tank acctually creaked as all the gas fumes rushed
out!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 16:21:04 -0500
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Open Height
Just a small anecdote-- my place of employment has underground parking but
spaces are narrow and I didn't want door dings. Turns out the D is low
enough to park underneath the garage's down-ramp. The ramp has overhead
structural ridges and both doors open up between them. Even have my own
dedicated sprinkler heads in case my electrical mods don't work as planned.
Guess I compete with the company lawnmower for the space -- nothing else
fits!
As to the toll booth windows and fast food, I always respond by saying you
can get the chee'burger through, but ya can't get da Pepsi.
\\ Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Christopher M. Hawes
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 6:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Toll Both Window Benefits
(edited)
>
> ... I found your fast food example rather amusing as some of the fast
> food drive-in places in the UK have a low roof section to shield the
cars
> from the rain and an inexperienced DeLorean owner not knowing how much
> height clearance is needed would pull up flick the door open switch and
hear
> the
> 'crack' of the door mirror and scrapping of stainless steel as it is
> elevated into the roof of the drive-in - ye - ouch -!!!!!
>
> Attention is GREAT when is of the right kind!!!
>
> Just a thought!
>
> Christopher M. Hawes
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 17:55:11 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Book
Actually, I just won a bid on eBay for that exact book. I am happy to hear
it's worth it.
John Feldman
VIN 4275
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 18:35:51 EDT
From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Cigarette lighter
Thanks for the advice. I unscrewed the screws and was able to see the
electrical components for the lighter. They all seem to be connected
properly. The fuse was the first thing I checked. Any ideas on something
else that could be wrong with it?
Jim
VIN#15880
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 18:31:38 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Toll Both Window Benefits
Ha ha, here in Texas I have the opposite problem. The drive-in windows are
set to the height of the average Texas vehicle, which means I have to reach
WAY up to get my food. :-)
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher M. Hawes [mailto:chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 5:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [DML] Toll Both Window Benefits
>
<SNIP>
> I found your fast food example rather amusing as some of the fast
> food drive-in places in the UK have a low roof section to shield the cars
> from the rain and an inexperienced DeLorean owner not knowing how much
> height clearance is needed would pull up flick the door open
> switch and hear the 'crack' of the door mirror...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 18:57:01 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Cigarette lighter
1. Smoking is fun, you should try a few packs before you decide
2. The lighter, clock, and radio "memory" are all on the same circuit. If
the clock keeps the time and the radio keeps the stations, then the problem
is the lighter only.
3. Regardless, I recommend hard-wiring the radar power cable under the dash
and running it under the window pillars and across the top. Much tidier.
At least for me, cables plugged into the cigarette lighter interfere with
shifting and get frequently yanked out anyway.
4. I was totally kidding about the smoking thing in #1 above (particularly
for those of you under 18). Don't smoke, kids, it very unhealthy and makes
you smell bad. If you want to look cool, drive your Delorean.
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jimbo0946@xxxxxxx [mailto:jimbo0946@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 1:54 PM
> Subject: [DML] Cigarette lighter
>
> I was wondering if anyone on the list knows how to get under the cigarette
> lighter. When I had some work on the air conditioner, the mechanic forgot
to
> reconnect the lighter. Now it does not work...
> Just in case if anyone is wondering, I don't smoke and would
> never let anyone smoke in my DeLorean. I use the lighter for a
> power supply for my radar. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in
advance.
>
> Jimmy
> VIN#15880
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 01:11:23 GMT
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Toll Both Window Benefits
Hi, let me introduce myself, my name is John Giedosh, fronzel Neekburm is a
"protection name" I guess you can say. I've read over 2/3 of the back issued
96 stuff, and decided to join the most recent list.
As for a DeLorean, I wish I had one, I live in South Dakota( I'm from New
Jersey), and the nearest DeLorean is in east Iowa, which brings me to
something, I'm going to Fort Collins on the 7th to pick up a Saab (ima saab
nut too), and I was woundering if anybody is in that area and willing to
driver up (or down) to meet me. Also, a week later, I'm going to the
northest part of minnasoda (can't spell very well) to get yet another, and
ask yet the same. Sorry for the big paragraph, but let me get the the
subject, I once saw a DeLorean with a regular car window, that rolled all
the way up and down. I think it was on mid-state DeLorean, but I can't find
it anymore. The owner redesinged the entire innars of the doors. Just my two
cents, again, sorry about the big message.
John Giedosh A.K.A. Fronzel Neekburm
Vermillion, SD
VIN# Yea, I wish!
P.S. does anybody know who owns VIN# 6665? or anything near it?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:31:51 -0500
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Blower Fan only works on #4 - Help
Hi Guys!
My blower fan only seems to work on #4
I have a brand new replacement fan installed and I also have a spare
Delorean fan&blower motor (taken from a parts car) on the shelf which yields
the same results when I connect it up.
It's likely I connected it wrong. Has someone got a second to email me
which wires go where?
Thanks
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN#17089
Windsor, Ontario
www.mydelorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:34:16 -0500
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Temperature guage dead
Hi!
I've got a dead temperature guauge. My cooling fans cycle properly on and
off and the car doesn't appear to be overheating.
I checked the archives and it mentioned loose/bad diode connections which it
didn't appear to be when I went under my dash.
Any ideas?
Thanks
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN#17089
Windsor, Ontario
www.mydelorean.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 21:45:05 -0400
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dead Speedometer
Greetings,
My speedometer is being stubborn and has decided not to work. I
have to get my car to a shop a few hours away to have a real DeLorean
mechanic look at it and repair the problem. Does anyone have speeds at
different gears by RPM so I can try to avoide a speeding ticket? Any help
is greatly appreciated.
Matthew
VIN #10365
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN