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There are 30 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Intermittent Starter Dead - SOLUTION
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Coolant fluid
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Chassis Undercoating...
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
From: rorx77@xxxxxxx
6. D1
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
8. Re: Delco Alternator wiring
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Coolant fluid
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: More Purchase Advice
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: DMC Prototype
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Coolant fluid
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: DMC Prototype
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. re:Coolant fluid
From: scottmueller<scottmueller@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Why I didn't make it to Cleveland RE: striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Idle_Off-idle problem
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
17. ADMIN: Too much mail?
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. DeLorean horoscope
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
19. Re: Window Motor
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Radio help?
From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Chassis Undercoating...
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
23. Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Too much mail?
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Chassis Undercoating...
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
26. DMC values
From: Joe Fedeli <fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx>
27. Delco Alternator wiring in detail! (was Delco Alternator wiring)
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
28. Re: Window Motor
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
29. Re: Coolant fluid
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
30. Re: Radio help?
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:55:17 -0500
From: "MrCopies" <mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Intermittent Starter Dead - SOLUTION
Thanks for all the answers on the starter "no power" problem.
Electrical problems are among the most frustrating.
It did indeed turn out to be a connection problem at the underside of the
relay socket. I simply undid the strip of relays and reconnected the
problem spades. (DMCJoe called it correct) Thanks for all the replys.
Hopefully this post will "save" somebody else when their searching the
archives at 4 a.m. for the solution. :)
Thanks again
mike@xxxxxxxxxxxx
VIN#17089
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 04:50:01 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant fluid
Before you noticed the low level in the surge tank when was the last
time you checked the coolant level? If it was recently or you suspect
any type of a coolant leak, a pressure test never hurts. Otherwise
make sure that you regularly inspect the coolant level. And of course
did your fans come on? On my car the cooling fans don't normally come
on untill the needle is right below the same line that you're talking
about. If I've read previous messages correctly, this is too high a
temp for the fans to come on. If this is the case, then Fanzilla will
NOT cure this. Fanzilla is a bypass for the factory installed relay
that turns the cooling fans on. It helps to prevent a strain on the
electrical system when the fans are powered up. Both Fanzilla and the
factory installed relay/wiring are signaled by the otterstat for when
to activate the fans. The otterstat is located in/on the coolant pipe
in the engine compartment on the left side of the car. While the
engine running @ this temperature isn't damaging, it does get robbed
of power. Make sure that for your fans you have the upgraded circuit
breakers and that you DON'T have the blue fan fail relay installed.
Since you said when you picked up speed your temp went down, your
radiator is fine. My car has the 3-layer radiator, no Fanzilla, 5/150
antifreeze (orange) and operates in around 115°-120° heat on a
daily
basis. That's the weather, not my coolant! And with the exception of
the otterstat, everything works great! The next chance I get I will
be driving the D over the hill thru Death Vally to REALLY put the
radiator to the test!
Procedures for flushing and refilling the cooling sytem can be
found in the technical library. The instructions there are better
then the workshop manual. Just remember to always use distilled
water. Only use tap water in an absolute emergency! Regular distilled
from the grocery store is just fine. "Scientificly Pure" water from
the auto parts store is the same thing only more expensive. Unless
you live in an area where the DeLorean will be exposed to freezing
temps or extreme heat, a 50/50 mixture will be fine. I use a 65/35
because of the environment I'm in. As far as cooling efficiency vs.
mixture, I don't know. But give Prestone a ring @ 1-800-862-7737,
they should be able to tell you. If you have any other questions e-
mail me.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Sacha Prins" <sprins@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> The other day I noticed that the cooling reservoir of my DeLorean
was
> empty, since I was a long way from home I added 2 liters (0.5
gallons?)
> of water which filled the coolant reservoir to the required level.
>
> Today I was driving in a traffic jam and suddenly the temp meter
went
> to 104C (which is the last white line on the scale) and that scared
me
> a bit. When I caught speed again the temp meter dropped to a more
> regular level. On the way back there was no traffic jam so I could
> drive home without any temp problems.
...............
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 21:42:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Chassis Undercoating...
On 2 Aug 2000 02:38:41 -0000, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> > Thanks for all the answers guys. The reason I am removing the frame
> > from the body is to restore it (to answer one DMLers question). It
> > has alot of rust on it and I want to remove it and recoat it with
> > Wurths Rock and Rust guard so it doesn't get worse. I have to
> remove
> > everything..all brake lines, fuel lines...etc...the entire frame
> will
> > be stripped of all of the epoxy coating, inspect it for any
> structual
FWIW, I have heard great things about a product called POR-15. It is
expensive, but I am told it is worth the price to undercoat your D. I
haven't personally used it, but seen it on a project car--It looks like the
original epoxy undercoating, only better protection. It is on my "D
projects" list for this fall...
Nathan E. Green
gzen21@xxxxxxxxxx
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits 88mph you're gonna' see
some serious s--t"
-Doc Brown: "Back to the Future"
_______________________________________________________
Say Bye to Slow Internet!
http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 23:07:49 -0400
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
David Teitelbaum wrote:
> My guess on your fuel pressure problem is that you might have not
> connected all of the fuel lines correctly. I don't know exactly which
> hoses you had to put together and even the ones you didn't are
> suspect. You must go over the fuel circuit fitting by fitting, some
> of
> the hoses go over and under and it can be easy to mix them up
> especially when you have never seen the system before. Just using a
> drawing is hard so my best recomendation is to find another "D" that
> runs (wasn't a basket case) and go over it hose by hose.I have a fuel
> pressure tester but I think you can troubleshoot this without it.
Well, I don't think that's the problem. The only difference between it running perfectly, and running so oddly was the changed fuel pump. I know I didn't screw up those hose connections -- I only had to change the one.
Right now, the car runs smoothly, but does have a way-too-rich smell from the exhaust. That's part of why I'm guessing the pressure is too high.
Also...
DMC Joe wrote:
> Before everyone starts to discuss how to repair their stainless steel panels let me make the following statement.
>
> Trying to repair your own panels is like handing you a pallet, paint brushes, and canvas and asking you to create a Rembrant. Body and fender repair personnel who can effectively repair stainless steel are one in a thousand. We have been servicing DeLoreans since 1986 and we still ship stainless panels out to the experts for repair.
Amen! Part of facing reality is knowing your limitations. As far as bodywork goes, well, to put it bluntly, I totally suck. Anyone who has ever seen my Chevy will agree 100% with that statement. Restoring mechanicals is mostly a science, while body work is mostly an art -- the art of scuplture. I've tried that art, and now have a
car with rear quarters that look like potato chips covered in Ditzler Graphite Gray Metallic enamel.
I want to try the dry ice on the small little hood ding, and a couple of small dings on the top of the doors. The big dings are definitely being farmed out. For the cost of a couple of pounds of dry ice, it's worth a shot. Besides, the leftover dry ice when mixed with water gives a really cool work environment for this mad DeLorean
scientist's laboratory. =)
That's it for now. Will be talked to a local custom shop about carpets on Friday. I'll keep you posted on the results!
-Dave
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 01:32:41 EDT
From: rorx77@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
Dave, this is Rory! I used Klean-Strip Aircraft Remover from O'reilly's and
autozone here in texas. This stuff works great! But wear a mask, goggles,
long sleve shirt and DON'T DO IT IN THE WIND! This stuff eats away just the
paint and primer, use a 3M srcub pad to take off old paint and primer. I did
the hood and one fender on a saturday (about 3-4 hrs just removing paint).
Wash panel first, spray on, let sit for 10-15 mins or until the paint bubbles
up and scrub off with 3M pad, rinse with warm soapy water and repeat if
neccsary. I used 5 cans to do 2 fenders, hood and to doors.
GOODLUCK
Rory
vin#3010
"BLADE"
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 03:28:08 -0000
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
Subject: D1
My two cents worth. When we got our D in Fall of '99 I had a couple
of questions. I went to the net and called D1. All I got was a
horrific story of all the problems I was now faced with and how much
trouble I might have and I should be prepared for the worst. When I
got off the phone I almost wished I hadnt bought this @#$3j09!!!!
thing.
My point is this... people have said the DML scares people away from
the marque, when in fact, in MY experience the DML has been a huge
help to me in getting to know my car and care for it. It's a
business encounter like some of us have had with D1 that would be
more likely to turn you away from the D.
Again, the DML is a tremendous support group to have and all of the
other vendors have been wonderful... a positive D experience!
Ron & Cheryl Wester
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 05:20:00 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Intermittent Starter Dead - can YOU help?
Mike, Even though the books say don't interchange the relays, There
are 7 of them that will interchange. If you know which ones they are,
then in a pinch, you can self test by switching relay's. Burnishing
the contacts will renew the life for a while, but remember, the
relays in most cases are under rated. That's why we have 40Amp relays
to replace them. Also the circut breaker will throw if prolonged
current is drawn threw them, due to an old solonoid that has been
used quite a bit. If you think the problem is solved due to the relay
contacts or connection then good. If your going to be worried, then
maby replace the relay's with new ones along with the circut
breakers. If you think the solonoid is wore out, then I have original
oem Paris-Rhome solonoids if you can't find them at a local auto
store.
Good Luck
John
solonoids --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "MrCopies" <mike@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hi Gang!
>
> I'm just finishing up a frame-off restoration and am getting an
> intermittent starter problem. All the electrical works (lights,
horns,
> radio, fuel pump engages etc..) but I'm not getting 12 volts to the
starter.
> I turn the key and can hear a relay click but that's it.
>
> - The battery is practically brand new
> - The starter is operational (I hooked it up directly to the
battery and it
> engages)
>
> I thought I had solved the problem a few weeks back (I cleaned a
few of the
> ground connections) but the problem seems to have re-surfaced.
This time
> cleaning had no effect.
>
> Is there an electrical guru in the house?
>
> Thanks
> mike@xxxx
> VIN#17089
> Windsor, Ontario Canada
> www.mydelorean.com
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 05:39:19 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delco Alternator wiring
Ralph,
There are suddle differences in the wiring vs the books. My wire
coming out of the wiring loom going to the alternator is brown/white
book say's brown/yellow, if you really want to get technical then I
can show you other wires in the book say one thing and on the car are
different. Also, go out to your car and unplug the light wire ( if
you want to call it that )from the alternator, then start the car and
watch the needle set below 13volts, then plug it back in and watch
the needle go to where it should be:appx. 14.4 volts. They do work
together.
John
P.S. Thanks for the call
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, sand131@xxxx wrote:
> Can one of you Delco experts tell me the wiring to replace my
Ducellier
> alternator with a Delco. Or send me a diagram (I am better with
pictures) at
> SAND131@xxxx
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> Vin 1606
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 02:11:49 -0700
From: Hank Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant fluid
Sacha,
The antifreeze/water ratio should not cause your overheating problem. Most
likely, it is caused by air trapped in the cooling system. There is a
natural high point pocket above the thermostat and a brass fitting on it to
allow you to bleed the air out. Check the archives for the procedure.
If your coolant was low once, you probably have a leak in the system and
before you drive too much, you must find and correct it. There are a large
number of short hoses in the cooling system loop (and twice as many hose
clamps) and at least one is probably leaking.
The original maintenance schedule called for the coolant to be drained and
replaced every 15,000 miles. If you don't know when it was done last, it
probably should be done as soon as you are sure you have fixed the leak.
After you have drained and refilled, remember to bleed the system again.
Hank Breer
VIN 1141
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 06:02:13 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: More Purchase Advice
Bruce, I bought a one owner,low milage, #11004 82 3 years ago and
paid a fair price for it, and with up dates have spent less than
$500.00 on it. You can walk around a car and point out all the things
it needs or you want and just keep running the price up to the point
you don't buy it, it's a almost 20 year old car. Rubber is going to
rot and parts age going to fatigue. But that doesn't you have to make
it perfect new again to enjoy it. I have 3 De Loreans in different
stages, but i like them all and there great cars and I like to work
on them to get a better understanding as to why some things were done.
My 2C
John --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, bduncan@xxxx wrote:
> I have seen several "original" cars for sale. I am speaking
> with someone now who says that all he's replaced on the car
> has been the tires and he's the second owner. My question is
> what updates would definitely need to be done to an "original"
> car? Relays, hoses, alternator? What else? And approximately
> how much would it cost to do all these updates assuming I
> could do them myself?
>
> If I can get a car with a perfect exterior and interior,
> but no updates, how much should I pay? $12,000? $13,000?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Bruce
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 08:55:36 -0000
From: cbl302@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Prototype
Is this car
> still around today, and if so where is it?
Unless Lotus themselves crushed the Delorean prototypes,the chances
are that the cars are stashed away or some salvage yard has put them
in the "back burner"(witness the chrysler turbine cars of the 60's
all were supposed to have been destroyed but a few still remain) to
sell off at some future time,as I own vin 000570 and this car was
never intended for public use/sell(see the dmc vault under pre-
production prototype for more details)this car was supposed to have
been sent back to the factory to be used for parts or destroyed
(crushed)but yet it is still around,so do not say that the cars were
destroyed unless there is absolute and unconditional proof of the
fact that the cars were destroyed.
Claude
vin#000570
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 07:38:21 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant fluid
Are your fans coming on?
Sounds like you need to bleed the air out of the cooling system, because
your thermo switch is not submerged in coolant.
Sacha Prins wrote:
<SNIP>
> The other day I noticed that the cooling reservoir of my DeLorean was
> empty, since I was a long way from home I added 2 liters (0.5 gallons?)
> of water which filled the coolant reservoir to the required level.
>
> Today I was driving in a traffic jam and suddenly the temp meter went
> to 104C (which is the last white line on the scale) and that scared me
> a bit. When I caught speed again the temp meter dropped to a more
> regular level. On the way back there was no traffic jam so I could
> drive home without any temp problems.
<SNIP>
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 07:42:05 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DMC Prototype
Yes.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/bodydies/bodydies.html
Don Ekhoff wrote:
<SNIP>
> On another note I was told that the body pressing dies were sold to a North
> Sea Fisherman to use as weights for fishing nets. Is there any truth to
> that?
<SNIP>
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 05:01:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: scottmueller<scottmueller@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: re:Coolant fluid
Sacha,
You most likely have some air trapped in your cooling system. You also probably have
a leak in your system, since you had to add 1/2 gallon of fluid.
Have a pressure test done on your cooling system, repair any leaks or possibly the cap
on the resevoir. When you get your manuals, read up on how to purge the air from the
system. You may want to drain teh system and put in clean coolant and water.
Scott Mueller
PS
Check the back issues and the DMCNEWS Tech section for more help
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cooling.htm
Hi,
The other day I noticed that the cooling reservoir of my DeLorean was
empty, since I was a long way from home I added 2 liters (0.5 gallons?)
of water which filled the coolant reservoir to the required level.
---
Sacha
#17115
P.S. AFAIK there is no Fanzilla or other similar system installed in my
DeLorean
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 00:39:11 -0400
From: "Danrc30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Why I didn't make it to Cleveland RE: striping DMC-then rebrushing or painting
Ok. I just did this to my car. So, here's my story.
I was planning on attending the Cleveland show. So, in the prepping of my car for the show, I wanted to repaint sections of the black portion of my car. I was going to leave the gold part alone. (If you want to see what my car looked like, go to Brian Henderlongs' site http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm and click on the black link.) So, I went and bought paint and shot it. Unfortunately, the store failed to tell me that their paint will attack lacquer. So, it ruined my paint job. Hence, no Cleveland. So, the stripping began. I removed all panels except for the doors and stripped them. I broke just about every bolt that I put a wrench on due to rust when removing the body pieces. I knew then that I had my work cut out for me. Also, it was a major pain in the ass to strip the panels I must add. The paint was from when the car was new at the dealer, and I guess it grew accustomed to being there. It did not want to come off. It took several days to strip all the panels. I had to drill out every screw that held the rocker panels on so I could remove the quarters and fenders. The stripper I used was from an auto parts store, and came with a spay bottle. It was Captain Lee's Auto Spray Strip.
Once I completed the stripping, I saw what I had... no hidden damage, well, not dents or filler at least. What I had was a car covered with 80 grit sandscratches from a Dual Action (DA) sander. This destroyed the grain on the car. It was a mess. So, what did I do? I attempted the impossible. I started refinishing the body to have a grain again. It takes a full day of work for each panel, and the hood took two days. The hood is very fragile by the way, and I had to be very gentile with it. Anyway, what I ended up doing was taking a 6" DA pad, and tig welding an adapter to fit it on a grinder/polisher. I then started experimenting with different grits of paper. The final process was to start with 220 grit. Then go to 320, and then finish with 400 grit. It wasn't just going over it once either. I had to sweep many times over the same area to get all the scratches out. Then, once I had a nice smooth, shiny finish, I could begin to grain. That was hard too because the tool doesn't want to stay in one place. It was difficult knowing where to go too. But I did eventually figure it out and got a nice grain.
My advice? If you have all the time in the world, and an unbelievable amount of patience, and you really want a stainless car... go for it!. If not, don't attempt this. The amount of work I've been doing is unbelievable. My back has been killing me, and I'm so tired of the work. Stripping is bad enough... graining is a nightmare if you have the same scratches in your stainless as I did. By the way, if anyone knows where I can get more flappers like the ones that came from the factory, please e-mail me directly. Thanks.
I will tell you all that it is almost done now. The car is totally different. I will post pics when it is completed.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.
---Dan Vin#5493 was Black and gold, now stainless after 19 years of being hidden...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 05:50:43 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle_Off-idle problem
Dave,
There are some things i do to car's and some I don't. I felt my car
was a little sluggish, so not having all the tools to tune up myself,
I left this to the experts and i took it to DMC Houston for a tune
up. Came back running great and at 900 rpm. Could my gauge be off:
sure. But that's what it say's and it runs great and has good gas
milage.
John
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> I was helping out another DMLer yesterday with a problem that has me
> scratching my head a little. The original complaint was that the
car will
> either idle at 850 rpm (normal) or, as you tip-in the throttle, jump
> immediately to about 1200+. Makes it hard to make a smooth start in
a
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 13:46:07 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ADMIN: Too much mail?
I've received a few notes recently about "too many DML messages".
Just a hint for newer subscribers (and a reminder for older ones) is
is easy to switch your account to the "digest" mode. This delivers
one large email per day that compiles the day's activity. This looks
exactly like the archives on the DMCNEWS web page (that's how I do
them).
For instructions on this see http://www.dmcnews.com/subscribe.html
(or just log into egroups) and scroll to the part about "CONTROL". If
you do this, and then want to reply to a post, please remember NOT to
quote the whole digest into the reply (it will probably bounce due to
size restrictions) and please change the subject line so that you are
not replying to a "digest".
You can also set your account to "Read on the Web Only" which is very
handy for when you go on vacation, or you really need to keep this
out of your office mailbox. You can completely read, post, and manage your account through the eGroups web site.
Dave Swingle
MOM
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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 03:27:19 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean horoscope
This really, really shows how I have nothing to do.
I went to a website I have to get my horoscope. I don't know why it's there.
I typed in "10/01/81," or October 1, 1981. Since I didn't know when my
DeLorean acutally came off the line, the day, I just put the 1st.
It read:
Other people are all too willing to give advice, but they don't have to
tackle the problems. You have an antenna into the stratosphere that will help
you find the right approach.
It has some significance, but truly, all I have is time on my hands.
Please give me something to do,
John Feldman
VIN 4275
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 07:22:08 -0700
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Window Motor
Richard,
Some years ago I had a similar failure. I removed the window lift assembly
and repaired it by forming "bandage/splints" on the broken elbow. This was
achieved by wrapping small patches of fiberglass/epoxy over the broken
sections. That was twelve years ago and things are still working
flawlessly. Not super pretty but effective. I even did the other side as
preventative medicine.
Hope this helps,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Strecker" <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
To: "DMC" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 7:03 PM
Subject: [DML] Window Motor
> Most problems with the window lift mechanism seem to be the motors &
> gears, mine is the nylon(?) elbow that connects the mounting frame and
> the cable guide tube. I would like to know if anyone has a passenger
> side unit that they are about to trash and the elbow is still intact.
> If so, please contact me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Richard
> Vin 2320
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 10:23:12 -0400
From: Josh Haldeman <haldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Radio help?
Dear List,
I have a question regarding the original ASI radio on my Dad's car.
The other night I was replacing a newer, but crappier (believe it or
not) Sony radio with the original one. The installer of the Sony radio
did a good job with the wiring, as I was able to disconnect the
individual wire plugs and reconnect them to the original radio's wires
without any trouble.
I turned on the ignition to test the radio and the clock came on,
but I didn't have a chance to test the radio itself. I laid the radio
down on the bare console and a spark jumped from the back of the radio
to one of the connectors for the cigar lighter and everything on the
radio and the AC panel lamps went out.
I figured that I blew a fuse, so I checked the box but all the fuses
were good. I also checked the in-line fuse on the 12 volt power
connector (solid red wire) and it was okay.
I hooked up my voltmeter to the vehicle 12 volt line and the vehicle
ground and got absolutely no reading with the car's ignition in any
position. I have also now replaced the AC panel lamp relay to no
avail. Everything besides the AC Panel lamps and the radio work, so I
can't figure out what I did. Can anyone help?
Thanks in advance,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964 (working doors, but no radio)
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 15:11:12 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chassis Undercoating...
Yes I have heard alot of good things about POR15 also. Wurths and
POR15 are pretty much the same thing, except that the POR15 comes in
black and in grey where the Wurths brand only comes in black. I am
using the Wurths because when I bought the car the previous owner was
going to do the chassis but never got around to it...so he had a new
can of Wurths lying around and gave it to me. As for the other
comment from another DMLer about the chassis flex, I don't know if
and how much it flexs' but what I may do is put on 4 coats of the
wurths stuff...along with a spray on rubberized chassis coating ontop
of it. I am using the wurths to stop the rusting. Any one have any
other suggestions?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Nathan E. Green" <gzen21@xxxx> wrote:
>
> On 2 Aug 2000 02:38:41 -0000, dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
>
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Thanks for all the answers guys. The reason I am removing the
frame
> > > from the body is to restore it (to answer one DMLers
question). It
> > > has alot of rust on it and I want to remove it and recoat it
with
> > > Wurths Rock and Rust guard so it doesn't get worse. I have to
> > remove
> > > everything..all brake lines, fuel lines...etc...the entire
frame
> > will
> > > be stripped of all of the epoxy coating, inspect it for any
> > structual
>
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 09:50:21 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
Hello Dave,
I just bought a carpet set from a company called hydro electric in
Florida. they have every pattern for almost everycar made since 1960. The
set arrived last week and look good for an aftermarket kit. it even has the
leather around the door sills. They even have a color that comes close the
black interior color carpet. I went with a light grey just to lighten up the
inside a bit:) you can call them at 1-800-343-4261. They will send you
samples. just wanted to let you know.
later
dave
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 14:40:04 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: The Resurrection of Vixen Continues...
Dave
If you think all of the connections are correct and the problem is
running rich after changing the fuel pump my guess now would be that
the old pump was not making enough pressure. If the relief valve is
set to high and not returning fuel to the tank or a line is plugged
up
that could be a problem. Another possibility is that the cold start
valve is leaking or stuck open and the additional pressure of the new
pump has highlighted a prior underlying problem. A final possibility
is that the fuel mixture unit is way out of adjusment or the freq
valve in the lambda circuit is leaking. You might even have a bad
injector. Pull all of them and squirt them into 6 cups and see if
they
are squirting equaly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxx>
wrote:
> David Teitelbaum wrote:
>
> > My guess on your fuel pressure problem is that you might have not
> > connected all of the fuel lines correctly. I don't know exactly
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 09:53:43 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Too much mail?
At 01:46 PM 8/2/00 -0000, you wrote:
>I've received a few notes recently about "too many DML messages".
This is a low volume list compared to many. The Mazda Miata list and the
Autocross list each generate about 100-200 messages per day, and as both
are unmoderated lists you get a lot of off-topic stuff with it.
A suggestion that some folks may not have thought of is to set your e-mail
package to filter anything with [DML] in the subject line and put them into
a separate folder. That way you can deal with them at a later time and
don't have to sort through all the messages from the DML to locate personal
messages. Having them separated makes them a LOT easier to deal with. None
of this applies if you are reading this list at the eGroups Web site of
course.
Mark N
VIN 6820
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 16:48:26 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Chassis Undercoating...
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> Yes I have heard alot of good things about POR15 also. Wurths and
> POR15 are pretty much the same thing, except that the POR15 comes
[snip]
Actually, Wurths's and POR 15 ARE the same thing. I had a can of
each, and the back-of-can labeling that tells you all the Bad Stuff
(like "contains isocyanates - do not breath or you will die") is
identical. Both products seemed to be the same consistency. I used it
all over the front frame on my car, and then painted over it with
Rustoleum "Dark Machine Grey" and got a better match than I did with
the original DMC repair epoxy. The original factory coating was
actually a powdercoat process that you will never duplicate, but for
a frame it looks pretty good. I've used the POR15 for other
applications, including painting brake calipers, with fine results.
You may notice that isocyanates are also the active ingredients
in "KrazyGlue". Just don't let it dry on your hands, the aren't
kidding about it taking DAYS to wear off. Cleans up fine BEFORE it
dries with generic hardware-store laquer thinner.
Dave Swingle
5429
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Message: 26
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 11:36:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Fedeli <fedeli@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC values
Two excellent references for TRUE DeLorean values are Hemmings Motor News
monthly magazine and http://www.vmrintl.com/
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Message: 27
Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 17:02:34 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delco Alternator wiring in detail! (was Delco Alternator wiring)
This is a long one, sorry!
Ok all, here's how to wire up your new Delco Alternator.
Note: when splicing the wires for the alternator replacement plug,
use heat shrink tubing for insulation and solder the wire's together.
Do not rely on crimped splicing connectors or electrical tape. For
some added protection, before applying the heat shrink tubing, coat
the bare wires with some dielectric tune up grease (same you use on
the spark plug wires) then slip the tubing over it. That way no
moisture will get in and corode the wires. I am not going to refer to
wire color on the Delorean harness since the colors vary (for some
reason) from car to car. I will refer to what they were connected to
or how to find them using a volt meter.
If you are replacing a Ducellier:
After installing the Delco unit and the pigtail adapter for the
Alternator, take the Red Sense wire (it will have an "S" stamped on
the black plastic housing of the plug on the pigtail) from the Delco
and splice it to the wire that came off of your Ducellier wire from
the "+" (stamped on the black plastic casing on the Alternator)
connector. It is the smaller connector. Now take the Lamp wire (again
marked on the black plastic housing of the plug on the pigtail
as "L") from the Delco and splice it into the wire that came off
the "L" connector on the Ducellier (again stamped on the black
plastic casing on the Ducy Alternator as "L" ). It is VERY important
that you connect the sencse wire! If you do not, you can burn out
your alternator. If you are not sure which wire is what on the
Delorean wire harness going to the alternator, do the following:
Disconect the plug from the alternator, turn the ignition key to the
On position, DO NOT START THE CAR! Using a volt meter connect the
positive lead to one of the connectors. The connector that is reading
the battery voltage is your "Sense" wire. Also if you have someone
turn the key to the off position while holding the volt meter on that
connector, you should see no voltage.
If you're replacing a Motorolla alternator:
Connect the Lamp wire from the Delco to the Lamp wire on the Delorean
(single wire that was going to the Motorolla alternator) then solder
a Lug connector to the Sense wire on the Delco connector. Connect the
Sense wire with the Lug connector to the Battery post (where you are
connecting all the brown wires to) on the alternator. Failure to do
this will fry your new alternator. The sense wire needs to read the
battery voltage for proper charging. The Motorolla unit did not have
an external sense wire on it like the Ducellier because they were
monitoring the Battery voltage internally from the "B" post. If any
of you want to get fancy, you can get a high amp relay to click on
when the ignition key is in the on position, that will go from the
battery to the sense wire of the alternator that way there is only
battery voltage present at the sense wire only when the ignition is
in the on position. This is better if you store your car alot since
if there is constant voltage on the sense line with the car off,
there will be a small (very small, like milliamps) battery drain.
If any of you have further questions, or would like to see pictures
on how it's done, email me or visit my site at
www.dmcman.homestead.com. I will have pictures an detailed
explanation of the Sense wire, Alternator mounting plate
modifications and pictures of the new alternator along with part
numbers.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxx> wrote:
> Ralph,
> There are suddle differences in the wiring vs the books. My wire
> coming out of the wiring loom going to the alternator is
brown/white
> book say's brown/yellow, if you really want to get technical then I
> can show you other wires in the book say one thing and on the car
are
> different. Also, go out to your car and unplug the light wire ( if
> you want to call it that )from the alternator, then start the car
and
> watch the needle set below 13volts, then plug it back in and watch
> the needle go to where it should be:appx. 14.4 volts. They do work
> together.
> John
> P.S. Thanks for the call
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, sand131@xxxx wrote:
> > Can one of you Delco experts tell me the wiring to replace my
> Ducellier
> > alternator with a Delco. Or send me a diagram (I am better with
> pictures) at
> > SAND131@xxxx
> > Thanks,
> > Ralph
> > Vin 1606
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Message: 28
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:15:01 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Window Motor
Don,
Many owners, like yourself, have the tools, know-how, and ability to remove and replace a DeLorean window regulator, not to mention performing a repair procedure on these poorly designed originals. For others this can be an extremely labor intensive frustrating project. I have seen many DeLorean doors with dings in the stainless caused by an incorrect installation.
The factory installed regulators have two main failure points. One, as you mentioned, is the plastic elbow connection the other is cracking and stripped drive gears. The heavy duty replacements have several improvements including all steel construction, a larger motor, and larger worm gear drive.Yes, they are a little pricey, but well worth the price when you consider that once installed you should never have to remove them again.
In closing, if you have good mechanical abilities, the right tools, can perform a successful repair as Don has, and enjoy removing and replacing your window motors, than this is the way to go.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Ekhoff
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Window Motor
Richard,
Some years ago I had a similar failure. I removed the window lift assembly
and repaired it by forming "bandage/splints" on the broken elbow. This was
achieved by wrapping small patches of fiberglass/epoxy over the broken
sections. That was twelve years ago and things are still working
flawlessly. Not super pretty but effective. I even did the other side as
preventative medicine.
Hope this helps,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Strecker" <dmc1219@xxxxxxx>
To: "DMC" <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 7:03 PM
Subject: [DML] Window Motor
> Most problems with the window lift mechanism seem to be the motors &
> gears, mine is the nylon(?) elbow that connects the mounting frame and
> the cable guide tube. I would like to know if anyone has a passenger
> side unit that they are about to trash and the elbow is still intact.
> If so, please contact me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Richard
> Vin 2320
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 29
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 15:27:31 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant fluid
Sacha-
First, I was caught in Atlanta for 3 hours of barely moving traffic and
didn't get a problem out of my cooling system. When you added water, did
you make sure to air bleed the system? This is a biggie that could have
caused this.
Scott
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Message: 30
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 15:41:22 -0400
From: "Scott Cagle" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Radio help?
Josh--
When you say everything works, did you also check your door lock lights and
your power windows? I had a similar problem, it being that the blower fans,
the door lock lights, ac panel, power windows, and radio all went out.
Turned out to be a loose connection at the acc relay. You might give that a
check.
Scott
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