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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 24 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Day Time Running Lights (Amber)
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Headlight Conversions
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Inertia switch bypass
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
4. Car for sale
From: efren hicks <marty_mcflyJr@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Wiring connector
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: tail lights
From: dtrue10521@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Consumable Parts
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Steel Braided Brake Lines
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Fuel filter
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Paint for Wheel's
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Delorean on eBay
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
12. BTTF/Maine State Parade
From: "Tom Watkins watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Headlight Conversions
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. cooling fans
From: "Travis Graham" <thgraham@xxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Fuel filter
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
16. Re: Wiring connector
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: Fuel filter
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
18. Driving Tour Dry Run Report
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Cargo Net
From: djs912@xxxxxxxxx
20. Re: Day Time Running Lights
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra@xxxxxxx>
21. anybody selling...?
From: "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Borla/Flowmaster Exaust systems
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
23. Re: Re: Inertia switch bypass
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Wiring connector
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 03:40:22 -0400
From: "Doc" <doctor280@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Day Time Running Lights (Amber)
As complicated as this may sound, I think that it is a great idea and I went
to work to to figure had how it could be done. Yall can take a look at what
I have come up with at:
http://www.freeyellow.com/members5/stainlesssteel/page8.html
If you see any faults in the wiring diagram that I have missed please let me
know.
Robert Starling
Vin#5252
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Joe said:
Rob,
This sounds like a ver good idea, unfortunately, it would be a very
completed modification for the following reason. The front park/directional
lamps are duel filament; low wattage for the parking lights and high wattage
for the directionals. To turn the high wattage circuit on for driving light
applications would simply require additional wiring to each lamp, an
interior mounted switch, and a couple of diodes.
Her is the problem: To allow these lamps to double as driving lights you
would have to build a circuit that would allow the high wattage circuit to
return to normal
whenever the directional or hazard flashers were activated, this would
require some type of processor isolate the different circuits.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 04:46:15 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversions
I have replaced my headlights with aftermarket bulbs. They are the same
size and look almost identical to the originals but have
removable/replaceable bulbs that go into the back. You can get up 130 watt
bulbs for these. I can't say how much better mine are for driving though,
since I have not put it on the road since the change. They do require a
wiring modification (rather simple once you figure it out - took me three
days to figure out). Total cost for two bulbs changed (outboard) was a
little less than $100.
Brian
16584
>From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Headlight Conversions
>Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 18:04:21 -0000
>
>I know that the headlight conversion thread has been discussed
>before, but I wanted to ask everyone here for both your opinions, &
>your ideas. I know that there was the one example where an owner used
>the lamps off of a Nissan Maxima. From what I was told (from Don in
>Garden Grove), this is not a feasable option. The headlights are not
>adjustable, and the angle on them is so, that they are constantly
>shining up in the air. Silicone was also used to mount them in place,
>so if a bulb burned out, you have to rip the seal, and then re-adhear
>everything when you are done. I like the look of the stock lights,
>but I also like the new HID lamps too. So my question is this: Is
>there a way to safely remove the vaccum from within the sealed beams,
>cut the back ends, and remove the filaments to directly convert the
>lights? If this could be done, would the electrical system be
>afected? I think the current headlights are 45/65 watts, but I've
>also seen some HID's rated @ 85/110. Ideas, cautions?
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585
>Build: 3 NOV 1981
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 22:53:08 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Inertia switch bypass
In a message dated 5/3/00 8:25:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Then I tried to start my DeLorean again. Relays click normally, but no
fuel
pump action. >>
This isn't exactly an answer, but... When Rob Grady checked out my D at the
De Lorean Mid Atlantic Spring Dustoff a few weeks ago, he remarked that there
was a bypass wire coming from my fuel pump. He speculated that there was a
problem with the inertia switch, which I think is original, and which I have
yet to replace. If I understood him correctly, that means there is a way to
permanently bypass the inertia switch from the pump to ground. (You didn't
state what exactly the nature of your bypass was, but I assume it was
different from that.) Of course, you shouldn't do that permanently, but it
might be useful as a test. Not being an ace mechanic, I'm not gonna look
under my bonnet and tell you what it's hooked up to, since that could be even
more trouble. But you might want to call Rob. I've always found him very
helpful on the phone. (Or whoever you got your inertia switch from.)
-Wayne
"Living the Dream!"
VIN...11174 "Time is ticking away for nose bra
orders..."
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 18:00:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: efren hicks <marty_mcflyJr@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Car for sale
hey well the car is for 8,500 and it has to go buy
this friday ok so if u want it if u dont i have other
buyers but the car will not be sold a penny less than
8,500 unless of course u have a old vespa for sale
that we could trade
efren
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 04:50:26 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wiring connector
Hey Group:
In my engine compartment, I have a connector (its like 2 seperate connectors
that hook together to make one) that is not plugged into anything. It has 2
green wires and 2 black wires. Is this supposed to be plugged in somewhere?
My car is an '83, if that matters for the wire colors. The connector is
on the driver side near the intake/manifold.
Thanks,
Brian
16584
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 11:50:49 EDT
From: dtrue10521@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: tail lights
I have a right one that is broken, I'm also looking for one.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 08:04:50 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Consumable Parts
There are a few Cross-refrence lists going around, but I suggest that
you only keep this list, and use it in case you get stuck some where.
If you are planning on doing any work on the car, order the correct part
from your favorite established DeLorean part supplier. My experience
has been that the prices are competitive, but you cant beat the
technical support when you have a problem!
J Rowe wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I have been a Delorean owner for all of 4 days now.
> It's an '81(OCT. 19881), grey interior 5-speed in case anyone is
> interested. I was wondering if anyone had a list or knows of where
> a list can be obtained for consumable parts ie: brake pads, oil and
> air filters stuff like that that may be the same as other cars that parts
> are readily available for at such places like napa or auto zone. I have
> heard that an oil filter off of a volkswagon golf will work but I am mainly
> interested in brake pads right now. I have 3 oil filters and 2 air filters
> that came with the car. Thanks in advance for any information.
>
> Jason............Indiana
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 07:07:00 -0500
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steel Braided Brake Lines
Go to http://www.midstatedmc.com/ under Parts. One of our club members
offers these on a limited basis. His contact info is on the page for the SS
lines.
Mark N
VIN 6820
Webmaster - Mid-State DeLorean Club
At 07:42 PM 5/7/00 -0700, you wrote:
>I've seen it discussed (and yes - tried to search the archives) - but
>everything I found was pretty old.
>
>Can anyone tell me the source(s) for steel braided brake lines?
>Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 05:16:07 PDT
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel filter
Hey Group:
I remember a thread a while back about using fuel filters from other
suppliers (non DMC). I remember someone had trouble and had to cut the
filter or lines with a hacksaw to make it work properly. My question is,
has anyone used the Fram filter (G3747) on their car and if so, has there
been any trouble with it?
Thanks,
Brian
16584
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 08:19:59 -0400
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Paint for Wheel's
Does anyone have the paint for the DMC wheel? I think it is the later
color (Nov 81).
I am looking for someone who has some extra paint they can send me in a
baby food jar, so I can repaing the "DMC" logo in the black center
caps..
Thanks,
Marc
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 05:40:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Aaron Posey <cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean on eBay
I am sending my sister to go look at the Delorean on ebay
that has 450 miles on it today. Since I cannot be there
what can I tell her and her husband to look at to see if
this is a good vehicle to purchase. If anyone else would
like some info too please let me know. I will have the
answers to our question by 900 this evening.
Please email me off of the list, unless you feel everyone
should know what to look for.
Thanks,
Aaron
cadysrme@xxxxxxxxx
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 13:13:47 -0000
From: "Tom Watkins watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: BTTF/Maine State Parade
Hi,
I entered my car in the Maine State Parade this past weekend all
decked out with the BTTF add-ons that I spent the past 3 months
making. I think it turned out well. It was great fun and I was
amazed at the response. I had people stand up and cheer! It was
also
great to drive the car to the parade with the jets and Mr Fusion
attached. I got more than normal head turning. Please check out my
work, I've put a picture in the file vault at:
http://www.eGroups.com/files/dmcnews/DMCbttf.jpg
Tom #05732
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 07:18:55 PDT
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlight Conversions
You can find aftermarket sealed beam conversion kits. I think the web addy
is european lights.com or something like that, I dont get an endorsement fee
from anyone, but a simple search will turn up the kits that you can buy to
replace the sealed beam headlights.
The HID conversion can be added to these replaced sealed beam ports at an
additional cost of as little as $400, but can run as high as $2000. This is
because the headlights will have to be custom made to fit the conversion
headlights to be DOT and street legal as far as focus pattern in your state.
(Basically so you arent flooding the entire highway w/high intensity UV
light)
The HID system runs at extremely high voltage, and is the same as if you
were to have a strobe light mounted on the front of your vehicle.
You would keep your standard halogen bulbs if you wanted to have high beams.
The HID bulbs work by maintaining a electrical arc that produces hundreds of
arcs per second, thus your light source. If your really interested I can get
into the complexities of focusing a carbon arc electrical source using
magnetic fields and the amount of time it is going to to take you to get it
just right. Or you can trust me when I say this is a project that you really
want to have custom-professionally done. (They have computers that can
figure out the exact placement of the bulb and magnetic field in a matter of
minutes.)
The upgrade to HID is not cheap by any means, the bulbs alone can run upto
$400 a piece. (depending on wattage and manufucturer). But if you want the
nightime to look like day, then there is no better lighting system on the
road.
hope this helps,
dr c?
===
>From: "Robert Rooney" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Headlight Conversions
>Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 18:04:21 -0000
>
>I know that the headlight conversion thread has been discussed
>before, but I wanted to ask everyone here for both your opinions, &
>your ideas.
===
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 12:15:14 -0500
From: "Travis Graham" <thgraham@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: cooling fans
Hello list,
I'm trying to remove my right cooling fan (the blade is broken) from my D.
Here's the problem: I can't seem to get it out (with relative ease) without
breaking something else of course!
>From the looks of it, the blade cannot be removed without the fan motor
being removed. And the fan motor cannot be removed without the fan housing
being removed. It seems that the fan housing cannot be removed without
removing the radiator! The manual claims that I can do this without
removing the A/C condenser, but when it states this it also mentions leaving
the fan housing assembly in there! And that's what I want to remove!
Is this correct? What do I really have to do to remove this darn motor!
Thanks!
Travis
#06344
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 13:39:50 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel filter
Just by the correct filters from the DeLorean Suppliers.
When I got a tank of bad gas from a major petroleum company, I drained the
tank and put in a new filter. I was trying to prevent any fuel injection
parts from going bad. I had just replaced the entire fuel injection system.
I purchased the PUROLATER fuel filter from an auto parts supply store.
The bottom of the filter, where the "L" shaped fitting attaches from the fuel
line was too short. The British car technician that was trying to help me cut
the "L" fitting down a couple of threads to help me get home.
I recently shipped the car to a renown DeLorean Service Facility. Their
staff informed me that they put on the correct filter and replaced the "L"
shaped fitting. In addition to that, they replaced the rubber fuel
line...they are VERY OLD and could burst setting the engine on fire. There
was a picture in a recent DeLorean World (1999) that feature what happened to
a fellow DMC owner in Florida. {The DOA is worth its value in membership}
Senator
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 13:48:27 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Wiring connector
The connectors you are referring to connect to the full throttle
micro-switch and the auto trans kickdown micro-switch. If your DeLorean is a
5 speed only one connector is used.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lynn Metz <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 7:50 AM
Subject: [DML] Wiring connector
> Hey Group:
>
> In my engine compartment, I have a connector (its like 2 seperate
connectors
> that hook together to make one) that is not plugged into anything. It has
2
> green wires and 2 black wires. Is this supposed to be plugged in
somewhere?
> My car is an '83, if that matters for the wire colors. The connector is
> on the driver side near the intake/manifold.
> Thanks,
> Brian
> 16584
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 13:37:45 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel filter
It has been reported to us from several owners the Fram crossover does not
provide a proper fuel connection fit.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Joe / De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lynn Metz <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: [DML] Fuel filter
> Hey Group:
>
> I remember a thread a while back about using fuel filters from other
> suppliers (non DMC). I remember someone had trouble and had to cut the
> filter or lines with a hacksaw to make it work properly. My question is,
> has anyone used the Fram filter (G3747) on their car and if so, has there
> been any trouble with it?
> Thanks,
> Brian
> 16584
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 16:11:38 -0400
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Driving Tour Dry Run Report
Last Saturday, the "dry run" of the Nobody Gets Lost Driving Tour and
Rock & Roll Road Rally came off (almost) exactly as planned.
Sixteen people drove the route in eight cars. Afterwards three more
cars joined us for dinner.
Happily, no one actually got lost. One DeLorean did experience a minor
cooling fan problem (remember folks, this event involves city driving).
A few people did take wrong turns, but using their maps they were able
to recover quickly. We found several minor problem spots and we will
fix them before June.
Some of the teams tried to rely exclusively on the audio track, ignoring
the written directions. This seemed to work most of the time, but no
one was synchronized closely enough to complete the whole trip without
looking at the written directions. An alert navigator helps
considerably.
To make the trip easier in June, someone suggested that we mark the most
confusing spots with different colored balloons. Possibly Red for Right
and bLue for Left. They said these are common markers for car club
events.
Has anyone had any experience with this? Do they usually use ordinary
balloons? Helium balloons?
We are developing our own system, but if anyone knows of any tips or
possible pitfalls please let me know.
Thanks,
- Mike Substelny
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 16:28:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: djs912@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cargo Net
Scott, Wayne,
All the cargo nets are black. My interior is gray. I actually would'nt
mind getting an extra one to stash myself, but seems I've heard they're
scarce. Has anyone checked the supply houses?
Dan - 7065
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 17:19:07 -0500
From: Jim Reeve --Ultra-- <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Day Time Running Lights
Well, not being a DeLorean owner, I cannot say I've done this or that it
works, but I was going to attempt a slight modification to the headlight
switch to have the parking lights come on automatically with ignition II
and then buy a second hazard switch, swap the button with the headlight
switch, and replace it with the headlight switch. This way, the parking
lights are always on, and the headlights go on and off with a single
push, not two.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
http://www.isd.net/jpatrick/
AIM-Ultra2169
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 16:43:01 -0600
From: "Steve Bunnell" <dmcsteve@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: anybody selling...?
anybody on the list selling an engine, a manual transmission, or a good
frame? or dmc floor mats, cargo net, fuel sending unit, hood or louvre
struts...?
email me personally...
dmcsteve@xxxxxxxxxxx
thanks in advanced,
-steve
p.s. Dave, do you still have that front spoiler?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 21:26:53 EDT
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Borla/Flowmaster Exaust systems
Greg,
Leave the original system. Save your money. I had been down that route like
so many others.
Do it if you have lots of, money time and patience.
Read on if you would like my experiences.
I did a lot of research to find a custom exhaust and muffler shop. A decent
sum of money was allocated for this project -- within a reasonable price
range. Many shops refused to tackle the project regardless of the money. I
live in NYC and the closest facility everyone recommended (including other
custom installers) was in the Princeton, NJ area some, some 70 plus miles
away. A shop in Princeton decides that they can handle it. Since the
DeLorean is not a common vehicle, my car was a "first" for them.
While I was down there the first day, I met an ex-DeLorean owner. I think
his last name was Mr. Fleming. He had sold his DeLorean that he own for 14
years and purchased a Porsche 911 turbo, a track car and is not street legal.
The Porsche was impressive. It was towed in on a flat bed and he was having
a "special" exhaust system installed. He said he had out grown the DeLorean
and wanted "more speed and performance." He is now running this track
Porsche to live his dreams.
Anyway, back to the muffler saga. The first choice, was a Borla muffler.
The Borla Company doesn't have a muffler to the specs or configuration to fit
the DeLorean (this was back in October 1998). A muffler would have to be
made up, CUSTOM ORDER -- COSTLY (I could buy a muffler for my Bentley) and
you would had to wait (Borla was swamp, and could not deliver on time.) Rob
from PJ Grady has one on his green car with his own designed custom headers.
His custom headers are no longer available.
The second choice was the Flowmaster muffler. It has no packing material, it
has baffles and we decided that this would be the one. Next were the
connecting pipes and other components. They had to be engineered or selected
and to be installed by cutting and welding. After the installation of the
system, the results? The difference in the performance was NOT worth it.
Incidentally, Rob had been down that road too. I found that out, later on
and it was too late.
Getting back to the Flowmaster and its system. Here are the problems.
Getting it right, was a trying some experience. The first time the system
was together, the system produced a high pitch ring, it was a tinny sound
from the exhaust tips. The tips were replaced with two "custom performance
tips" which eliminated this dilemma. Next the system had a "burble" effect
on deceleration, wimpy sound with an unusual engine behavior -- lost of
power. To resolve that problem, they had to remove the muffler and insert
small choke collars in the outlets necks to create a resistance at the
outlets, this was the Flowmaster engineers' suggestions. This got rid of the
burble, but it "choked" the system. This choking resulted right back to the
original performance. Well, there goes the performance we were hoping to
get.
The next problem was the cabin's resonance -- internal pressure generated by
the engine and the exhaust system. The resonance coupled the interior of the
car. WOW. This internal pressure on long drives can be irritating if not
tiring and trying some. The feeling is a heavy pressure on your chest --
After three months of daily driving, which is 3 to 4 hours a day, I had this
system removed and installed the original factory system.
Anyway, I spent over a thousand-dollar on this failed project. The system
was a dual separate manifold pipes, dual cats, dual pipes to the Flowmaster
muffler, dual exhaust tail pipes. This system has been sitting in my
basement for over a year, anyone interested? Make me an offer.
Bottom line? WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY.
I believe the best or the better method for exhausting the DeLorean is the
"header manifold" that our British DeLorean owners are using. I understand
it is a good system, but we in the USA, we MUST have a catalytic converter,
which must be included and fitted into the DeLorean (some states requires
original system and no modification allowed). Remember that the problem is
room and the sizes of all the components that need to be fitted. I think the
British law doesn't require cats, so they have the room for a different set
up which also help improve the performance, lucky them.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D NY
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 20:56:25 -0500
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Inertia switch bypass
Several years ago I helped a friend diagnose a non-functioning fuel pump. We
found no continuity between the pump and the inertia switch. We also dug up
some old remarks regarding the wiring loom that carries the wires from the
fuel pump to the inertia switch. It makes a sharp bend near the front of the
driver's side front fender. I believe the loom runs across the front of the
car and back down the driver's side and through the inertia switch and other
dash appliances. Apparently some cars developed a break in some of the wires
at this sharp bend. We ran a wire directly from the pump to the switch and
everything worked fine. Perhaps the wire you found from the pump to the
switch was to correct this.
Bruce Benson
> This isn't exactly an answer, but... When Rob Grady checked out my D at
the
> De Lorean Mid Atlantic Spring Dustoff a few weeks ago, he remarked that
there
> was a bypass wire coming from my fuel pump. He speculated that there was
a
> problem with the inertia switch, which I think is original, and which I
have
> yet to replace.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 22:03:20 EDT
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Wiring connector
In a message dated 5/8/00 9:44:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< It has 2
green wires and 2 black wires. Is this supposed to be plugged in somewhere?
My car is an '83, if that matters for the wire colors. The connector is
on the driver side near the intake/manifold. >>
Brian,
I think that the wire connector you are talking about is for the
microswitch for an automatic transmission, but I am not sure. Is your car a
stick or automatic?
Later,
Nick
VIN# 1852
HTTP://members.aol.com/njp548
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