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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Toby TABS
From: "gr8old1 <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: Repost and Apology. DeLorean for sale in Kentucky. PERFECT.
From: Corey Stup <corey@xxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay
From: "Bill <bill221@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <bill221@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: ADMIN: Car for sale ads
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Could a 4 cylinder volvo engine work?..........
From: "smoolie671 <smoolie671@xxxxxxxxx>" <smoolie671@xxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Headlights
From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Autocross opportunity
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
10. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
11. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
12. Momo steering wheel hub adapter
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. deloreans magazine
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)
From: "Dave Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. oozing windshield sealant/reseating window
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Motorama 2002
From: "media1524 <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: deloreans magazine
From: <cahamond@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: deloreans magazine
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Could a 4 cylinder volvo engine work?..........
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Re: Autocross opportunity (Pidgeon Hole)
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. looking for Paul
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
23. Re: oozing windshield sealant
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. french project
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:22:06 -0000
From: "gr8old1 <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Toby TABS
Hopefully, the design drawings and specifications are well
documented, archived, and such. For those of us, like myself, who
have yet to get their hands on a Delorean, it would be nice to know
that we could have the option of being able to remake these crucial
pieces when we finally have something to put them on! even if it's a
high cost to ourselves, safety is a must.
BTW, i searched the archives, but can't find the posting about the
material that was used. What was it?
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 16:34:07 -0500
From: Corey Stup <corey@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Repost and Apology. DeLorean for sale in Kentucky. PERFECT.
I live in Louisville as well. I would be happy to have a look at this
car and send pictures or whatever.
Note that my car is also for sale in Louisville. $15900 with
aftermarket wheels. 37K miles. '81, black int, 5sp.
http://www.stup.net/delorean
>I live in the area, so if anyone out of state wants someone to go and take a
>look at the car for them and take some digital pictures, please let me know
>(delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx). I would personally be interested, but I think
>its a little steep, but to each his own.
>
>1981 Delorean. Just over 11,000 Miles. PERFECT interior. PERFECT
>exterior. Runs great. Drives Great. Starts right up and runs like a
>champ. Very strong. Every component on this car works. Windows, door
>struts, all switches etc etc.
>
>VIN # SCEDT26T9BD001798.
>
>Also with the car, tucked away in the owners manual leather pocket is
>the original road and track article on the car, two DeLorean Motor
>Car Club Decals that were never placed on the car. An Order Form for
>a DeLorean factory Turbo Kit which was intended for the car and some
>other various DeLorean information booklets, including the owners
>manual. And I still have the original Window Sticker taken from it
>when it was new and tucked away in this pouch.
>I have a complete factory DeLorean Parts and Repair Manual, all
>original.
>
>If interested, please CALL my cell. Im not typically online and Im
>not very net savvy so I may miss your messages here or elswhere.
>502-797-1845 my fiancee George will answer.
>
>The car is available for test drive or inspection in Louisville
>Kentucky.
>
>$24,000.
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:54:16 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay
"Supersize" pic of engine compartment, then reference my earlier
comment Re: rust on our little silver cars. They've got more steel in
them than you might realize (true, lack of engine cover didn't help
this particular specimen's current condition, but the steel is there
nevertheless). What I want to know is: how did PO manage to rust jump
starting sticker on coil cover? (I know it's just yellowed, but it
sure looks like rust, eh?)
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "netym89 <delorean@xxxx>"
<delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Whoahh!! Every so often we run into a late model car that really
> looks abandoned and in sad shape. Well, here's another one that needs
> a good home. I realize that most of us would turn our back on one of
> these but it has potential. The Dream will continue to live on!!
> PS. I am not the seller of this car, for anybody that may ask!
> Have a look:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&category=31830&item=2400100553
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:38:30 -0000
From: "Bill <bill221@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <bill221@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Sad Delorean on Ebay
Hello,
I live in Jacksonville, Florida... 15 minutes from Jacksonville
Beach. If anyone wants an independent look, feel free to contact
me.
However, I am a new DeLorean owner and am NOT the expert its previous
owner was. (My D's former owner is very knowledgeable and still
EXTREMELY helpful after the sale!)
Well, if I can be of help, message me offline at bill(at)
billgraham.net.
Hopefully someone has the time (and money) to restore this one.
Regards,
Bill Graham
vin 6298
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=31830&item=2400100553
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "netym89 <delorean@xxxx>"
<delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Whoahh!! Every so often we run into a late model car that really
> looks abandoned and in sad shape. Well, here's another one that
needs
> a good home. I realize that most of us would turn our back on one
of
> these but it has potential. The Dream will continue to live on!!
> PS. I am not the seller of this car, for anybody that may ask!
> Have a look:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
> ViewItem&category=31830&item=2400100553
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 15:11:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Car for sale ads
I bought my car through there :D
Todd
Vin 5386
--- "Dave Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>"
<dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> No problem with posting them here, but it would be
> more effective at
> http://www.dmcnews.com/BuyNSell/dmcforsale.html. I
> know from the web
> server counter that this is by far the most active
> page on the
> dmcnews website, and based on the activity a LOT of
> cars are being
> bought and sold thru us. Maybe I ought to start
> charging for the ad
> space.......nah.
>
> Dave Swingle
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 23:29:09 -0000
From: "smoolie671 <smoolie671@xxxxxxxxx>" <smoolie671@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Could a 4 cylinder volvo engine work?..........
I know most of you are blowing a fuse right now, but I want to know
if there is a 4 cylinder Volvo engine that would mate up to the
Delorean trans and/or bell housing?
Ulysses Stockdale
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 23:42:21 +0000
From: "Chris D'Urso" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headlights
Hey Matthew,
I used those "HID look" headlights in my car until inspection (the people
there said they are illegal). They are H4 bulbs in a universal 6" x 4"
housing and they fit well. The H4 bulbs had some bleedover so when the
lowbeams where on the highs had a bit of light coming from them also.
Flipping the bulbs over and only using 2 plugs instead of all 3 semi-solved
this problem. You might be able to use bulbs other than H4 though. Some
companies on eBay also sell wire conversions that will help with the wiring
and bleedover effect. Anyway, the housings i used were 6" x 4".
-chris-
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 01:54:55 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Autocross opportunity
Kevin
When I lived in Houston I use to go with some friends to the corvett
club autocrosses. The tires you will wear are the fronts and expect
to heat up the brakes big-time. Also, I set up the fans so they
would run all the time to keep things cooled down. You can just
jumper the wires at the sensor and that will do the trick. The car
does great and it is fun but, it is a dog on power and really plows
through the turns because of the terrific understeer. With so much
weight in the rear, hard braking into a curve can also get you into
a spin quickley. You learn to come into the corners a little slower
and accelerate out early to keep things smooth. Its a real education
on DeLorean handling if you get a chance. Advice; don't over rev.
Max torque is at 3-5M RPM.
Harold McElraft - 3354
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> My coworker's Mustang group is going to rent out the autocross
site at the
> old blimp base in LaMarque (Houston, TX area) sometime in February.
> If anyone nearby is interested in tearing up some tires, let me
know
> offlist.
> I probably won't be running the gauntlet, but thought I'd pass the
> opportunity along.
> Kevin
> dmc4687(at)mindspring.com.
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:19:29 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: grounding equipment to battery?
From many car audiophiles point of view, the best way of installing high
power amplifiers and many of the audio equipment's, is to attach the supply
and ground lines directly to the battery. This way you will minimize or
reduce all "electrical noises" that the vehicle and its components can
induce. Many car audio companies produces and supply battery terminals "add
ons" accessories to help with these issues of corrosion and or stressing the
terminal mechanically. These add ons terminals accessories are a necessity
to reconnect the original vehicles wires while offering the ability to
connect the new heavy gauge wires of the audio equipment in a safe and
correct manner.
Don't wire for fire or learn by burn.
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 1/15/03 4:13:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> In general it is not good practice to hook additional wires directly
> to the battery terminals, + or -. You start to get into issues of
> corrosion and maintaince, when you remove the battery you may not
> notice and hook up any extra wires. The best place to go with
> additional grounds would be where things are already grounded to the
> frame. If you have a really heavy or "special" thing to ground the
> absolute best place would be where the cable from the battery connects
> to the frame. Of course all the warnings about clean and tight rule so
> when disturbing any ground points make sure everything goes back
> together "clean and tight".
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:15:19 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?
Andy, You should be pretty good with an ohm meter. Measure from the neg.
battery post to anywhere on the chassis or frame. If it's more than .1volt dc
drop, then you need to work on your ground cables and connection. That is a
typical voltage drop. Naturally connecting direct to the battery ( - ) would
eliminate and other drops. Computer equipment should be less than .05 or less.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< i have read from many sources that the best place to ground high power
stereo
equipment is to ground it directly to the ground connector on the battery
rather than the frame. if you ground all of your equipment with a
distribution block and have only one heavy gauge cable going to the battery,
this will eliminate ground loop interference. i have NEVER seen anything
grounded to a car battery before - is this really a good idea? i should
think
it would be OK but I'm not sure! any ideas?
>>
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:29:18 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?
Just another of my two cents and not to flame Martin's suggestion, there are
a few things to know about "caps" or better known as "stiffening capacitors"
in the auto hi-fi business. ?
First, if a good audio amplifier is well engineered and well made, there
should really be no need for a stiffening capacitor. ? Unless you are running
one "extreme" high output amplifier or multiple amplifiers which will
requires the extra current, one should stay away from using the stiffening
capacitors. ? The primary purpose of the stiffening capacitors is to aid the
amplifier if you are playing the system at HIGH VOLUME for long a period of
time or for short extreme loud bursts of bass signals. ? The reality is, how
long does one listen to the system that loud while driving? ?
*** Folks, please do keep in mind that high volume or loud sound will
deteriorate your hearing and once your hearing is damage, THERE IS NO
REVERSAL. ? You will be wearing a hearing aid afterwards as an "amplifier"
for ambient sound in your ear or ears!
Unless the car is used is entered and used in sound competition, stiffening
capacitor should be avoid. ? All the stiffening capacitor will do to your
alternator, is soak up all the current that the alternator generates. ? It
makes the alternator labor by having it putting out all the time when there
is no need for it to do so. ? The stiffening capacitor will over tax your
alternator and may cause an early demise. ? If you are going to, or must use
a stiffening capacitor, you must do some electrical calculations and upgrade
to an alternator that can produce the amps required..... Special custom built
alternators ARE NOT CHEAP.... Just ask Mr. John Hervey for an alternator over
150 amps.
Instead of using a stiffening capacitor, one should first make sure the
battery is in good order and then second, by upgrading the alternator that
can supply the current that is demanded by the vehicle and then the added on
amplifier's current demand. ? This way the correct alternator will charge up
the battery and supply the current to run all of the total electrical
demands.
A point on amplifiers. ? Many amplifiers are "hyped" in their power rating
and many retailers are interested in making sales only and that all they are
interested in doing..... making sales. ? These amplifiers are poorly
engineered with poorly regulated power input stage which is one of the reason
why stiffening capacitors are required. ? Many stiffening capacitors starts
at around $75.00 US to much as $450.00 US. ? Get a well made amplifier with
true RMS output which has a good regulated power input stage and you will not
need a stiffening capacitor. ? This way you will save the money. ? Lower cost
and poor performing amplifier with a stiffening capacitor will almost be the
same cost of a decent well made higher price amplifier. ? So, get a better
high price amplifier, this is a better way to go as a compromise in money but
not in sound quality or quantity.
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------
In a message dated 1/15/03 4:16:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
>
> However, if you experience problems (and I doubt you will) by using a
> different ground point, you can snub it at the amplifier by putting a
> capacitor across the power supply terminals. You can buy caps for this
> purpose from car hi fi shops.
>
>
Martin
>
> #1458
> #4426
> FAMILY="
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 19:46:09 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Momo steering wheel hub adapter
Greetings from the desert,
After watching the list a while back I saw there was a hub available
to put a Momo steering wheel on the DeLorean. I bought one to check it out.
I finally got the stock steering wheel off tonight and noticed that it had
two tabs sticking out that fit into slots around the hub. The Momo adapter
does not have these tabs. Other than that it was a perfect fit. What I
realized the tabs were for was not alignment of the wheel but to shut off
the turn signals after completing a turn. So my turn signals stay on until
I shut them off. If anyone has done this modification and has a solution I
would like to hear it as I'd like to have that feature remain.
Anyone? Bueller?
Matthew
VIN #16816
VIN #10365
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 21:01:38 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: deloreans magazine
i was wondering if anyone else has subscribed to the deloreans magazine since
thanksgiving with a charge card and has gotten their order processed yet?
i was wondering because i placed my order with them the week of thanksgiving and STILL
haven't had them charge my card yet. i have asked about this problem and i am getting
the run-around and i was wondering if anyone else is going through what i am going
through with them.
mark
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 03:40:30 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)
Short answer - glued to the inside top of the facia with Urethane
windshield adhesive. NOTHING else will stick.
I wrote this up a long time ago - see at
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/fascia.htm
This is a compilation of a couple of peoples' inputs, and some verbal
input I got from Rob Grady a couple of years ago.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Scott Mueller"
<scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote:
> I watched the video.
>
> Entertainment would be the best description for it.
>
> My question is, is the metal attached to the topside surface of the
> headlight well, or is it attached inside the facia, between the
topside of
> the facia and the topside of the headlight well?
>
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> RNDOLA
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:34:39 -0800 (PST)
From: john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: oozing windshield sealant/reseating window
[Moderator Note: I'm approving this post because it furthers the technical discussion of this topic. I realize it is a bit antagonistic, but the email address includes the subscriber's real name, so it is not anonymous. - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]
Dont be afraid of removing and reseating windshields yourself.remember they are made of safety glass and the worst thing that will happen is that you crack it and have to get a new one.Also I been around shops that do glass work and I can tell you they are not careful at all when taking it out.I saw two guys even start prying this winshield out with a large screwdriver because they didnt want to take the time to do it right.To remove the winshield you will need at least two people.Cover everything around the windshield with blankets preferably old ones since the black goop gets everywhere.Get a couple cheap sets of guitar strings or piano wire and two pieces of wood to use as handles.you will need to use the thin silver guitar strings or piano wire to slowly and carefully saw through the sealer all the way around the window.You will need you friend to be inside the car and the two of you should work it back and forth like a band saw.try to exert as little upward pressure as possible while doing this.It will take quite a while to go all the way around and it will take at least two times around before the goop is ready to let go.once you think it is ready you should have your friend (or yourself) gently use outstreched arms and open palms to push the glass outward VERY VERY gently.Someone (I recomend you have someone on each side of the car)should be on the outside with there hands against the windshield to make sure it does not pop or lunge out suddenly.Windshields get more brittle with age but if you are very careful you should be able to set it down on a pile of soft blankets or wrap it in blankets and stand it against something without breaking it.This is a labour intensive job so if you are a wimp (like most of the people on this list) dont even attempt it.The sealer you need to reseat it can be purchased at most auto parts stores.make sure you clean all the old sealer off the car and the winshield.Reinstallation is usually where you break the window because you are so tired an impatient by this time that you try to hurry it along,so you might want to make it a two day job.Im sure that Mr Expert whatever his name is will have something to say about this but remember hes the one who takes his car to the shop all the time so can anything he says really be trusted?It would be worth while to purchase some of those big suction cup handles for moving winshields but they are hard to get your hands on.Dont chicken out and decide you want to have the shop put it back in cause you will be pretty embarassed driving up in a DeLorean with no windscreen.You will probably get some bugs in the face if you drive without it too.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 14:56:35 -0000
From: "media1524 <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>" <brentlun@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Motorama 2002
I just noticed that my 1983 "D" made the highlights of the 2002
Motorama show in Harrisburg, PA.
http://www.trail-wayspeedway.com/2mtshow02.html
Brent Lundgren
1983 VIN #17006
1981 VIN #3049
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:15:19 -0500
From: <cahamond@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: deloreans magazine
I ordered mine back during the summer and have sent numerous emails stating that they are sending the magazine to the wrong address. I figured this out when a neighbor that lives a couple streets over that I had met a couple weeks beforehand brought mine by the house to me. Like I said, I've sent deloreans magazine several emails and I gave them the address correction and have yet to receive a response from anyone. I posted a message in their forum not too long ago and have yet to receive a response there either. Maybe there is something going on that we don't know about. I don't know. Guess we can call DMCH to see if they know what's going on.
Chris Hammond
Vin 01882
>
> From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2003/01/15 Wed PM 10:01:38 EST
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] deloreans magazine
>
> i was wondering if anyone else has subscribed to the deloreans magazine since
> thanksgiving with a charge card and has gotten their order processed yet?
>
> i was wondering because i placed my order with them the week of thanksgiving and STILL
> haven't had them charge my card yet. i have asked about this problem and i am getting
> the run-around and i was wondering if anyone else is going through what i am going
> through with them.
>
>
> mark
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Message: 18
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 15:22:35 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: deloreans magazine
Hello I tried to subscribe three times before being registerd....
try again and be patient..
Raph
[duplicate quote trimmed by moderator]
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 15:41:15 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Nose/Eyebrows (clip)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle <dswingle@xxxx>"
<dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Short answer - glued to the inside top of the facia with Urethane
> windshield adhesive. NOTHING else will stick.
...
> Dave Swingle
I have to defend the honor of my favorite glue, PC-7, which also
sticks quite well to the fasciae.
I repaired my car's eyebrows in a manner similar to Dave. Basically
the differences are that in my front fascia, I used a single 1/2" by
1/8" steel bar, bent to shape, instead of two shorter aluminum bars,
and the glue used. The steel bar goes from one side of the fascia to
the other, covering both headlights, glued into the crevice on the
inside of the leading edge of the fascia. To my understanding, most
people who've repaired their eyebrows have used two shorter pieces,
one above each headlight. I suppose that's the only way to do it
with the fascia on the car.
The steel bar is glued into my fascia with PC-7. It was necessary to
have the fascia off, to do it, as I had to clamp the bar in place
while the glue cures overnight, so it wouldn't migrate. This, in my
opinion, is a very good reason to do it Dave's way, if you're doing
it on the car. I don't think I could have clamped the joint
effectively with the fascia on the car.
As someone who's repaired his car's eyebrows, I reflexively
scrutinize any DeLorean I see to see how their fascia is holding up.
I've seen Dave's car, and immediately noticed the distinct absense of
eyebrows, which seem to be present on nearly all DeLoreans. His
front fascia is extremely correct looking.
Either method produces comparable, and very good results. I can't
tell them apart from the outside.
Other things I've on my DeLorean with PC-7:
fixed fascia cracks
attached replacement fascia studs (every single one of them, damnit I
hate them)
mounted the fuel filler entry in its new location on the left rear
fender
reset rivnuts in damaged underbody material
set the mounting points for the rear transmission controller board.
other things I'm forgetting, I'm sure.
Rick Gendreau
11472
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:21:50 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Could a 4 cylinder volvo engine work?..........
Hello
The trans in the Delorean is a Renault. I don t know if Volvo made
an engine with the same bell pattern, but i guess you could mount a
Renault engine.Some four cylinder were very powerful, and the PRV
was used in the Alpine sport car, in aspirated or turbo versions, up
to 250hp. I understand Renault parts are difficult to find in US ( I
live in France ), but nothing is impossible.
I remember renault exported the R11, called "Encore" In US, but I
can t tell what engine came in it, maybe a 1.6L or 1.8L. It could be
a good base engine...
Have a nice day
Raphael
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Message: 21
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 10:22:45 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Autocross opportunity (Pidgeon Hole)
Hey Ken, are you listening to this thread?
I love the car shows that Ken has put on thus far, but I don't have a concours car. I'd
love to have a all-DMC autocross setup somewhere at the next car show in
Pidgeon-Whatever.
Would anyone else be interested? Enough to pay an extra entry fee, even?
Gus Schlachter
VIN# 4695
Austin, TX
"Harold McElraft " wrote:
> Kevin
>
> When I lived in Houston I use to go with some friends to the corvett
> club autocrosses. The tires you will wear are the fronts and expect
> to heat up the brakes big-time. Also, I set up the fans so they
> would run all the time to keep things cooled down. You can just
> jumper the wires at the sensor and that will do the trick. The car
> does great and it is fun but, it is a dog on power and really plows
> through the turns because of the terrific understeer. With so much
> weight in the rear, hard braking into a curve can also get you into
> a spin quickley. You learn to come into the corners a little slower
> and accelerate out early to keep things smooth. Its a real education
> on DeLorean handling if you get a chance. Advice; don't over rev.
> Max torque is at 3-5M RPM.
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 11:23:20 EST
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: looking for Paul
If Paul McCormick is on this list or anyone who knows him has his e-amil
address can you please contact me privately
Thanks
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:29:12 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oozing windshield sealant
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> Q: I've had wet carpets in the past; and now I've noticed what
looks like
> tar oozing from underneath the windshield into the interior side of
the car.
> Could this have oozed out and created a leak point? How can one
tell? Can I
> take this to a shop and have it reseated?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
Hi Kevin.
I've had this oozing problem on another car. The front windshield
bead used on DeLoreans is that squishy butyl stuff. It obviously can
dissolve under certain conditions.
I have successfully removed, and reinstalled my DeLorean's windshield.
It was not easy. I think the only reason I pulled it off, is because
I've broken windshields on previous attempts on other cars, and have
learned from my mistakes. Also, a number of little unrelated
problems popped up that might have to be ignored by a professional,
who's after all doing it for the money, and is under a time budget.
No offense intended.
Having done the job, I know what I would do, and not do, if I were in
your shoes.
I would remove the top windshield bezel plate, and seal the joint
between the top edge of the windshield with RTV sealant. Getting
this plate off is not too hard. The screws are hiding under the
weatherstripping.
I would be pretty liberal with the sealant. While I was there, I
would also try to seal the edges of the stainless steel bracket, the
one that holds down the bezel.
For good measure, I would put a blob of sealant over the screws that
hold the stainless steel bracket down(if they haven't rusted to
powder, that is), completely covering the screw holes.
Also, I would cover all the exposed underbody material with a thin
layer of the sealant as well, to prevent moisture from penetrating
the material, freezing, and cracking it, like it obviously had on my
car.
I would put up with the slow dripping of the black goo, and clean it
off the inside of the windshield from time to time like I did on the
car I owned which had that problem. The only cure for that is
replacement of the windshield bead.
It's overwhelmingly likely that only the top windshield bead is
leaking, so I would not worry about the sides, or the bottom of the
windshield.
I would not remove, rebead, and replace the windshield just for a
leaking top bead. This is certainly a very good and thorough thing
to do, but the risk of windhield breakage outweighs the benefit, it
would seem.
There's a good chance that the above tasks alone will seal a leak
between the windshield and underbody.
On my car, I've done all of these things. (though I also removed and
replaced the windshield) It, however, hasn't been exposed to rain,
so my success or failure is theoretical at this point. I hope never
to test it.
You might ask John Dore for advice, who to my understanding has
successfully fixed his leaking roof and windshield.
Rick Gendreau
11472
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Message: 24
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 16:37:53 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: french project
Hello
I live in france, a country where D's are rare but salvage yards are
full of PRVs....
I finally found a D that has been waiting in a backyard for a
restoration.I wondered how much I could offer for a project car
needing lot of work. (owner asking $8500....)
I need advises and the experience of all of you before starting a
project; is a restoration a good idea ?
Feel free to contact me raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx
Have a nice day
Raph
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Message: 25
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 12:05:22 -0500
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: grounding equipment to battery?
[Moderator Note: This message has only a tiny bit of DeLorean information. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND ABOUT THE GENERAL ELECTRONICS OF CAPACITORS as this is better suited to a different BBS. - Moderator Mike Substelny]
Hi Kayo, sorry, but you're pretty wrong here:
Original Message:
-----------------
"All the stiffening capacitor will do to your
alternator, is soak up all the current that the alternator generates. It
makes the alternator labor by having it putting out all the time when there
is no need for it to do so."
>> First of all a "stiffening" capacitor is not a term I've ever heard in 3
years of my electroncis degree. I think it's a made-up term (and the audio
industry is full of them, just don't get me started on directional speaker
cables). A capacitor is basically a pair of plates held a fraction apart
and insulated from one another. One is Ground, the other is positive. A
charge is built up between the two (and from a discharged state, a large
cap can draw a heowge current, but for a fraction of a second only). What
then happens is that any voltage spikes will try to pull the positive
plate's charge away from the potential of the battery, this takes quite a
bit of current, which most noise sources can't supply, so the spike which
may be, say, 10v for 1/100th of a second, translates to an imperceptable
"hump" in the charge on the positive plate of the capacitor.
The capacitor serves as a store of current for short periods too. Ever
noticed how throbby bass can make the headlights dim with the beat of the
music? Put a large capacitor on the amp and it will help smooth the load to
the battery and alternator: a good thing all round.
You do have to get the value of the cap correct and the faster and higher
the "ripple current" they can take, the better. I would assume that a
smoothing capacitor bought from an audio outlet would be a good start, but
I hate Hi Fi shops - they're almost as good at ripping customers off as an
average car dealership....
To the original poster: If it's convenient to ground the amp on the
chassis, try it. If you can hear noise on the output, you can try a
smoothing capacitor, or connect to the battery directly. I doubt you'll
have any problems.
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
#4426
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