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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Dash Cover Template
From: "netym89 <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Transmission computer parts?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Steering Column/Oil Filter
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Steering Column/Oil Filter
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. "Rustproof" DeLorean
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Bulk 1.25" Radiator Hose For Sale
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Nose/Eyebrows
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. oil filter plug wrench
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
9. Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Re: Frame issues
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Steering Column/Oil Filter
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
12. Oil Drain Plug
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Frame issues and refurbs
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Transmission computer parts?
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Transmission computer parts?
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Transmission computer parts?
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: oil filter plug wrench
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. RE: Steering Column/Oil Filter
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
19. RE: Dash Cover Template
From: "Joseph Vinciguerra (11-110750)" <joseph.vinciguerra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 02:57:38 -0000
From: "netym89 <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dash Cover Template
I have experimented with fabric to make a dash cover. The thin carpet
material is probably the right choice for the job. So now, I am in
search of a template to make the dash cover. There must be something
out there that we as owners can use to sew up one if we have the
skills.
Any info on this by any chance??
John E.10250
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:28:05 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Transmission computer parts?
Greg, You can use dipped tantalum ( 10 mf at 35volt) orange, as well as the
metal looking case or solid tantalum.( I also use 4.7mf at 35volt metal case)
Both have excellect moisture resistance. I use both. I have enough parts to
rebuild about 15 units if you have a hard time.
Mark is to my knowledge is no longer involved with Deloreans. He lived in the
Dallas area and came by my office 2 to 3 years ago. Haven't seen or heard
from him since.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< In the dmcnews archives Mark Hershey wrote an excellent article with
pictures about the rework done to the boards and identifying the
replacement components. I have been searching for the tantalum caps he
listed, but am having difficulty locating metal ones like the ones
shown. I can easily get the correct values ( 4.7 to 10 microfarad, 20 to
50 volt) but not in metal, only epoxy (yellow) in radial or axial leads.
I'm looking now in a Digikey catalog and see what looks like metal, but
says ceramic. Also, solid tantalum, 'wet slug', tantalum capacitors or
tantalum electrolytic capacitors, molded solid tantalum, please you EE
guys help a ME out, I'm on thin ice here. Are they all the same except
for size and rating?
Also, the .1uf caps on the back side of the board I can only find epoxy
and no voltage is identified.
Earth to Mark Hershey. I tried your phone number listed in the DOD, it
didn't work.
This is the first automatic transmission I have ever worked on, and one
of the caps is 'blown' like shown in Mark's write up. The car is my new
VIN# 6214 with only 9,600 miles.
Greg Linstad
pndc.org
VIN# 3507 "RUSTLSS"
VIN# 6214 "RUSTLS2"
>>
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 22:31:59 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Steering Column/Oil Filter
Take a look at this web page and you decide what filter you want. I sell
three different kinds of German filters that have proven to be good and work
just fine for the DeLorean. The Bosch or Mann = is slim and won't hit the
sending unit.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
<< What oil filter does everyone suggest to use if a delorean one is not
available and will not damage my sender unit. >>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 03:43:57 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering Column/Oil Filter
Break down and just order a filter from a Delorean vender. It comes
with the copper gasket for the drain plug too. A while back James
Espey cut some filters open and you really do get what you pay for in
this case. Besides if I see a Delorean with a filter that isn't
Purflux then I wonder what else is not correct on the car, it's a sign
of the type of care and service the car received. Order 2 so you have
1 for the next oil change. This is not the type of thing that should
be an emergency but if it is I am sure that you can get it overnighted
to you for extra $$.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "geek321y <tecno@xxxx>" <tecno@xxxx>
wrote:
> Has anyone found cross ref. for upper and lower canopy on the
> steering column or a car with a similar one.
> What oil filter does everyone suggest to use if a delorean one is
not
> available and will not damage my sender unit.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 04:08:48 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: "Rustproof" DeLorean
Just my 2 cents:
Stainless steel frame or not, our little silver cars are full of
rusting nuts, bolts, brackets, etc. Have had the joy of cutting &
drilling quite a few myself. Yes, a new frame would be nice. Just
don't be misled that one alone will render your car impervious to the
elements.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 04:35:37 -0000
From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Bulk 1.25" Radiator Hose For Sale
Have just completed major rationalization of my radiator piping.
Replaced four sections of tube with fleet grade rubber hose (pieces
from engine compartment to center sill and from gas tank to radiator).
Wanted to do more but that's all practical (nobody told me tubes hold
up my gas tank). To do this I had to buy a 50 foot roll. Now I've got
more odd size water hose than a man could ever think of uses for.
If anyone would like some of NAPA's finest 1.25" hose (this really is
nice stuff -- noticeably thicker than even formed hoses), I'll sell it
by the foot, $2 per. That's almost half my cost -- my biggest concern
is getting the huge roll out of my house (but I can't just give it
away!). Contact me direct at: brobertson"AT"carolina.net.
For the curious, I re-routed the radiator bleed to a tee in my heater
core return.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 03:54:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Nose/Eyebrows
You remove the headlights and epoxy a THIN piece of aluminum to the
underside of the facia to keep it straight (it has to be thin because
there isn't much room with the headlights in). You might have to heat
up the facia and hold it flat till the epoxy sets so everything lays
flat when cured.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "geek321y <tecno@xxxx>" <tecno@xxxx>
wrote:
> Does anyone have a sure fire way to fix the eyebrows on the nose
over
> the bright lights or do i have to relace the nose
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 01:27:25 EST
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: oil filter plug wrench
In a message dated 1/13/03 12:01:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, Soma576@xxxxxxx
writes:
> Jiffy Lube does not carry the DMC oil filter. however you can certainly buy
>
> your own filters from your favorite DMC vendor and then Jiffy Lube should
> have no problem - except for the drain plug!
When you buy the filter ask for the wrench. Your DeLorean vendor will
probably have both. Runs around $18. I think for the wrench, at DMC Houston.
Wayne
11174
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 07:50:17 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How difference between 500+ page Vinyl repair manual and vender's one
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxx>" <
jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> I have noticed in the couple of Workshop manuals I have seen that
> there is a large chunk missing from the Automatic Transmission
> section. I bet 95% of people have never noticed it mainly because
> their car is a 5-speed. Another big reason is that unless you are
> actually rebuilding the automatic transmission the missing information
> isn't important. I got my manual from P J Grady and until I pointed
> out to Rob about the missing pages he didn't even realize it. (They
> were able to provide the missing pages). Besides the "missing pages"
> there are numerous errors throughout the manual, some small and some
> large...
<SNIP>
It's very interesting that you bring this up. I have what appears to be a
"bootleg" copy of the workshop manual. A few years ago when I first joined
the DML, I knew that I needed to buy a Workshop Manual to study. So long
story short, I acquired a used one off of the internet. Once I got an new manual
from DMCH though, I just put this one aside, and forgot about it. Pulling it out
of the closet, I've examined it a bit further.
The manual appears to be a "custom" copy that someone hand-edited. For
instance, every page has a # typed in the lower corners. The entire section on
"Frame/Body" is hand typed with only a couple of clip-art inserts from the Parts
Manual. Another thing is that the sections in this manual are labled by
numbers, and not by letters in the "new" maual that I have. The Engine and
Auto Tranny sections are quite detailed with the engine section adding in
photos of the teardown of a B27F motor from a Volvo manual. The Tranny
section is almost the same, but is by far more disoriented in as the layout is
different. But id comes in @ 58 pages long.
Aside from a few custom inserts such as including the template, and
instructions on how to install a rear antenna, there are other variations in the
manual. Some are large in as a 20 page detailed trouble shooting guide for
engine operation including one for the Idle Speed Control circuit, and a
Diagnostic Guide for the LAMBDA ECU. Others are not quite as impressive
such as the Heating & A/C section @ a whopping 6 pages with no explicit
details other than a quick troubleshooting guide. The Tranny section though
also has an interesting tidbit. In the list of "Special Tools", the first is missing
the mention of the C1 Clutch Compressor, but the second paragraph includes
an additional item called a "Converter Oil Seal Inserting Tool", and gives
COMPLTELY different part #'s such as B.Vi714 for the dismantling tool.
In reading both of the manuals, I can tell you that the problem with the
inaccuracies isn't due to incorrect information, so much as incomplete/sloppy
tranlsations and adaptations for the DMC-12 application (ie. the A/C section
has footnotes for 1979 & earlier vehicles). If a rewrite is to be done, then one
person shouldn't take on the entire book. Individual sections should be
completed by people with specific experience in the particular repairs, and
they should be written/proofread one at a time.
Anywho, I just wanted to throw in another 2 cents, and let everyone know that
there appears to be yet another manual out there. Where this one came from,
I've no idea for certain, but only a guess.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:37:07 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Frame issues
We in the UK are used to winter weather and loads of road salt spread
around.
I have been into ( very) OLD cars for 40 years. The DeLorean is far better
protected from corrosion than any other car I can think of. Neither the
under body or Stainless panels CAN rust. You only have to worry about the
frame and associated parts, suspension etc. This was one of the reason's I
was so attracted to the car.
In my early working days as an apprentice car mechanic in the 1960's I was
always amazed when we had an old ROTTERN car on the lift, that could
literally rusting to bits. However the area's around the prop-shaft and
differential, that had regular doses of grease and oil flung on them, were
always "just like new" under the muck.
After noting this, I regularly used to spray old engine oil under my cars.
However old oil can cause problems with damage to rubber pipes etc.
I soon was buying the specialist "Waxoil" / Zebart type products, when they
became available. These, sprayed onto all the underside of your car, paying
particular attention to the difficult to get at area's, offer unrivalled
long term protection from rust. I have a special spray gun and small potable
compressor just for this job and still use it today on all my cars, once per
year. It also has the added advantage of keeping rubber soft and flexible
and nuts and bolts from seizing up.
If you're the sort of person he wants the underside of the car to always
look nice and clean, then clearly "fair weather" driving is for you.
However, if you want to use your car all the year, and don't mind it looking
dirty underneath, then this could be the answer.
Ideally you have two DeLorean's, one for best and one to use.
Just my 2 pence.
Chris Parnham Hon. Sec. DOC UK www.delorean.co.uk
Vin 5638 (RHD AUTO DAILY DRIVER)
Vin 20049 ( BTTF replica show car 160 miles.)
Snip...
"the frame still wont last long. i suggest drive it in the summer only or
get a stainless frame installed because you are going to destroy a good
frame driving it in the winter."
Snip...
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 07:58:43 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Steering Column/Oil Filter
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "geek321y <tecno@xxxx>" <tecno@xxxx>
wrote:
<SNIP>
> What oil filter does everyone suggest to use if a delorean one is not
> available and will not damage my sender unit.
You never have to worry about not being able to find an oil filer, because
they'll always be available from all parts vendors. Stick with what the vehicle
mfg reccomends, especially when it comes to the DeLorean. If in doubt, check
out the Photos section, and have a look at what happened to a FRAM oil filter
that was installed on my car.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 09:00:15 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil Drain Plug
Not to sound like an advertistment for someone but Special-T-Auto sells
a oil drain plug with a 17mm hex end on it so that you no longer need to
find a correct male end. I just bought one and am waiting it's
arrival....I do have the "snap-on" part that fits the OEM plug perfectly
but it's alway a hassle finding the hole. Also has anyone tried the new
FRAM plugs that have the oil drain hose. It seems like you simply twist
on the drain hose and it releases the catch and starts to drain. I'm
not sure which model number it is for the FRAM drain plug but it seems
like a neat idea if it actually works. This would also eliminate having
engine oil shooting out all over the rear frame member (I currently
cover mine with aluminum foil when draining so I only have to take off
the foil when done)
link:
http://www.specialtauto.com/engine.shtml
Tom
#005732
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 10:53:50 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Frame issues and refurbs
I think the appeal of the refurb DMCs is that you don't need to fuss with them.
Everything is fixed, ready to go, with a *warranty*. Someone with $40k to burn probably
uses their garage to store cars, rather than as a workshop for cars.
For instance, I was at DMCH getting new rear wheel bearings while someone was picking up
their refurb DMC. They chose this option because they knew little about the car from a
technical standpoint. (He'd never heard of DMCNEWS, and I encouaged him to take a
look.) I was chatting with him, and we drifted onto the subject of how one can get stuck
in or out of a DeLorean (probably scared him half to death!) and mentioned the exterior
plastic door handles snapping off in the cold. He decided to buy the replacement metal
ones on the spot and have them installed before he left.
When he asked to have this done, it was explained that this was ALREADY done, as part of
the refurb. I agree that $40k is alot of money but if you're not a mechanic and don't
like mailing lists :-) then it's a great way to get a low-maintenance classic car.
Of course, the warranty value diminishes with the distance from the service shop.
Gus Schlachter
VIN# 4695
Austin, TX
Vin 5386 wrote:
> My 2 cents on this subject is as follows, why spend
> 40k on a refurb when you can get a decent D for about
> 15k......
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 15:31:53 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission computer parts?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Greg Linstad <greglinstad@xxxx> wrote:
> In the dmcnews archives Mark Hershey wrote an excellent article
with
> pictures about the rework done to the boards and identifying the
> replacement components. I have been searching for the tantalum caps
he
> listed, but am having difficulty locating metal ones like the ones
> shown. I can easily get the correct values ( 4.7 to 10 microfarad,
20 to
> 50 volt) but not in metal, only epoxy (yellow) in radial or axial
leads.
...
Hi Greg, and anyone else interested.
Use this information at your own risk.
Don't sweat it. Either type you've found will work fine. The best
one to pick is the one that will mechanically stay connected to the
board the best. I looked at Mark's .jpgs on the dmcnews.com site.
He sure did the Delorean community a nice service posting his work.
I liked his test fixture.
I can't tell from the picture whether the original capacitors were
radial or axial. They look radial to me.
If they're radial on the board, a radial replacement will probably
fit best mechanically, and similar for axial. If they can vibrate
around after installation, you can glue the capacitor body to the
board with hot-glue, rubber cement, or something like that. It's
best not to allow them to flop around, lest the vibrations fatigue
the solder to failure like what happens sometimes in the rpm relay.
Digikey number 399-1360-nd
is a KEMET dipped tantalum 10uF 35V radial capacitor that would work
out nicely. P2065-nd is the panasonic equivalent.
Basically any of the capacitors on that page in the catalog that have
a voltage rating of 20V or better and approximately the right
capacitance (probably not critical) would be 10 times better than the
original.
Virtually any similarly valued capacitor will serve as a replacement
for the 0.1uF capacitors Mark Hershey put on the back of his board.
I'd be inclined not to bother with them, myself, for fear of screwing
up the traces on the board, but it's hard to argue with his success.
Capacitors are much better nowadays than when that circuit board was
made. Also, the capacitors on the original board seem to have been
underspecified, voltage-wise.
One thing to look out for is that both tantalum and electrolytic
capacitors
(the original type on the board, judging from the picture) are
polarized, they have a plus and a minus. If they are installed
backwards, they either aren't as effective, or are destroyed,
sometimes explosively(it's fun to watch, if your face isn't nearby),
depending on how hard they're driven electrically. Don't install
them backwards. The original capacitor should have markings
indicating the polarity.
Please feel free to email me privately, if you want, at
twinenginedmc12<<at>>gendreaumicro.com
Do these boards screw up a lot? A unnamed potential partner and I
are investigating whether it's worth running a batch of high quality
replacement boards.
Rick Gendreau
011472
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:06:47 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission computer parts?
One more thing, the actual part number for the caps that I used are:
135D106X0050C2 Maybe that will help you too.
Adam Price
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 17:03:15 -0000
From: "Adam <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission computer parts?
Hey Greg. I did this about a year and a half ago, and I ran into
trouble finding components as well. But i eventually found some great
tantalum caps. They are wet tantalums, with a temperature rating of
400 F !! They have all different sizes, I went with 50 V, 10 uF. They
are small enough to fit into the computer boards without any problems.
One thing though, they were very expensive: $20 dollars per cap!!!
But these are great caps, same ones used by the military and NASA.
Here's the link. And I ordered them through the distribution company
called Avnet. The links to distributors are on the site too. Good
luck.
Adam Price
http://www.vishay.com/products/capacitors/tantalum.html
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Greg Linstad <greglinstad@xxxx> wrote:
> In the dmcnews archives Mark Hershey wrote an excellent article
with
> pictures about the rework done to the boards and identifying the
> replacement components. I have been searching for the tantalum caps
he
> listed, but am having difficulty locating metal ones like the ones
> shown. I can easily get the correct values ( 4.7 to 10 microfarad,
20 to
> 50 volt) but not in metal, only epoxy (yellow) in radial or axial
leads.
> I'm looking now in a Digikey catalog and see what looks like metal,
but
> says ceramic. Also, solid tantalum, 'wet slug', tantalum capacitors
or
> tantalum electrolytic capacitors, molded solid tantalum, please you
EE
> guys help a ME out, I'm on thin ice here. Are they all the same
except
> for size and rating?
> Also, the .1uf caps on the back side of the board I can only find
epoxy
> and no voltage is identified.
> Earth to Mark Hershey. I tried your phone number listed in the DOD,
it
> didn't work.
> This is the first automatic transmission I have ever worked on, and
one
> of the caps is 'blown' like shown in Mark's write up. The car is my
new
> VIN# 6214 with only 9,600 miles.
>
> Greg Linstad
> pndc.org
> VIN# 3507 "RUSTLSS"
> VIN# 6214 "RUSTLS2"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 11:09:25 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oil filter plug wrench
The oil drain plug socket is a Snap-On tool, part number 111104 from delorean.com. I
keep mine in the glovebox.
I had a local lube shop offer to drill out the pan and install a "normal" plug. I
passed! However, one could weld some square stock into the drainplug, making it male
and removable with "normal" tools. And if you screw up, new drainplugs are about $4.
I was turned away from a lube shop once, because my car was too exotic (Volvo?) and too
expensive (less than that Lexus over there!). A letter to the shop owner got me an
apology letter and a promise to stock my correct oil filter.
Gus Schlachter
VIN# 4695
Austin, TX
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:23:53 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Steering Column/Oil Filter
Try the Triumph TR-7.
(<http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk>)
"geek321y <tecno@xxxxxxxxxx>" <tecno@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Has anyone found cross ref. for upper and lower canopy on the
>steering column or a car with a similar one.
>What oil filter does everyone suggest to use if a delorean one is not
>available and will not damage my sender unit.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 2003 12:46:25 -0500
From: "Joseph Vinciguerra (11-110750)" <joseph.vinciguerra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Dash Cover Template
I have one that I got from Gary Masie. He may have templates.
-----Original Message-----
From: netym89 <delorean@xxxxxxxxx> [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 9:58 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Dash Cover Template
>
>
> I have experimented with fabric to make a dash cover. The thin
> carpet material is probably the right choice for the job. So now,
> I am in search of a template to make the dash cover. There must
> be something out there that we as owners can use to sew up one
> if we have the skills.
> Any info on this by any chance??
>
> John E.10250
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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