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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Re: Alternator-wiring
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: Blown A/C hose
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Blown A/C hose
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Broken bolt in engine block
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. JZD's Birthday
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Dakota Dash
From: AJL521@xxxxxxx
8. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Broken bolt in engine block
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Lock Module Connectors
From: "drdhdmd <yahoodmc@xxxxxxxxxx>" <yahoodmc@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Do you have a Delorean frame for sale?
From: "IM2WITTY <im2witty@xxxxxxxxx>" <im2witty@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Lock Module Connectors
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 03:23:56 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
Wiring up tweeters into the dash shouldn't be a problem at all. My crossover is
located under the drivers seat, and the head unit powers everything. 4X45
watts. Unfortunetly, I've no idea how exactly the wiring was done. I chose how
what I wanted, and commissioned to have the work done. But tweeters in the
dash with the treble turned up high enough can become powerful enough to
be painful to the ears. The high notes will go up, bounce off the windshield,
and flood the compartment with sound. It sounds great when playing music
with both low base, and high notes like classical music, and electronica.
For the kickpanels speakers, I'd reccomend to go with straight component
speakers. You won't need multiple channels if the tweeters above are hitting
the high notes. Let them use all their power to pump out midrange. The same
goes for the speakers that you put onto/into the back panel. Let them do the
midrange work as well.
Now for the stock speakers in the rear, I'd reccomend a set of 2-channel ovals.
That way you'll be sure to also get a nice mice of things from in the rear. The
biggest concern here is surface area. You're best best is either sticking with
the stock 4x10", or perhaps 4x6". But you want to make sure that you use
whichever one has the most surface area. Which one does, I've no idea.
You'd have to do the math on that one.
If you don't install subwoofers, then change the rear component speakers
over to 2 or 3-channels. Otherwise, leave them be. The "traditional"
installation method has been to install the woofers into a custom box on the
rear parcel shelf. This is ok, but what then is the point of having the parcel
shelf then? So in turn, this isn't my favorite method. That and I perfer to have
everything as hidden/stock looking as possible.
Under the dash there might be room to install a 6 1/2" bazooka tube on each
side. The problem here though is that they'll just 'fire' the sound waves into the
sides of the car, depending upon the length that you choose. Otherwise it may
be worth your time to install custom ported boxes with 2 speakers on each
side so that they are directed twards the floorboard. Slap the floorbards with
your open palm, and they'll sound just like a drum. Since these panels
resonate so well, they'll also contribute to road noise. My advice is to install
nose noise deadening material that you can also remove easily. That way
fore regular driving, the ride will be comfortable, but you can pull it out for
times when you want to cruise around and show off the system.
Another option that I'm looking at doing myself, albeit a radical one, is to
possibly install divders in the rear pontoons (ahead of the antenna & air
intake), and install woofers with foam baffles behind to protect them from the
elements. That way I could just use the entire rear pontoons as bandpass
boxes and not worry about having to sound proofing them. Or perhaps
depending upon how it sounds with a test speaker, doing something simular
with the front pontoons either/or.
I hope this not only helps you a bit, but also gives you a few ideas for future
projects as well!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Robert, Martin, etc. -
>
> maybe what i need is suggestions on what i should be doing. replacing the
> rear speakers in their stock location with something acoustically better, or
> building something into the rear wall.
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:28:10 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Alternator-wiring
Jan: See below.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
The brown / yellow wire (Light wire) is energized via the main relay when the
key is turned on and the battery light lights. If it's working. Then when the
alternator starts turning it sends and opposing voltage back to the light and
turns it off.
If the battery light bulb doesn't come when you turn the key on, then there
is something wrong in the wiring or the regulator isn't grounded properly for
the light wire use.The bulb # ( 161 ) has the proper resistance and acts
like a ballast resistor to keep from burning up the regulator. Hooking a
straight brown wire or straight voltage up to the regulator will render it
useless in about 30 seconds or less. I use # 411HD ( Heavy duty Delco type )
regulator and only the light wire terminal. Others wires are cut off.
John
<< > Jan, As you may know by now the brown/yellow wire is called the light
> wire. That is the only wire used on the new GM regulators that I build.
[snip]
> If the brown wire is hooked up to most new style alternators
> it will burn up the regulator after a bit.
I was afraid of that, so I tried putting the wires from the alternator
together and then going to the light, but this didn't work; no charging,
no volt-reading on the gauge...( This could have burned it up immediately)
At Idle without any accessories running we got 13.4V at the starter-post,
revving the engine produced between 14.6 and 14.8V, dropping to 14.2V
with the lights and highbeams on.
( 13.4 long shot could have been battery voltage or a damaged regulator
trying to hold on.) You have to have RPM's to maintain the voltage. There is
very little to no current till the alternator reaches about 1500 RPM on the
rpm gauge.
> Without the brown /yellow wire hooked up the light won't come on and
> the alternator won't charge. Also, if the dash light goes out the
> alternator won't charge. Use a 161 bulb only.
Allready knew that from you ;-) Now I could REALLY use some suggestions;
without the light-wire I get no charging. ( Replace the bulb and check
connections) without the sense-wire there's no charging either!
But I'd hate to burn up the regulator; should I put
in a resistor of some sort?
Any suggestions?
I didn't pay much attention to the brand of alternator, but I know it's
an aftermarkert one, no Ducellier of Motorola. The owner bought it locally.
If important I could ask him what brand/type it is...
Thanks for the help,
>>
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:39:53 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Blown A/C hose
I replaced the whole line and didn't worry about where it blew, it was gone
any way. I didn't want to patch or splice it. My shop that does my AC work
had a local hose shop make a new one with my connectors. That was two years
ago.
John Hervey
www.special T auto.com
<< I work off shore a lot and have not had time to look
for the place where the system blew but I know it was some where in
the engine compartment. Any body have a suggestion where to look
first, i.e. which A/C hose coming off the compressor? >>
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 03:49:07 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Blown A/C hose
There is a pressure relief valve on the A/C compressor for just such a
reason. In all likelyhood you did not blow a hose, just the safety
valve. It is supposed to reset but sometimes they will continue to
leak. Even if you didn't damage anything you at least need to recharge
the system. Find a good A/C shop in your area and have the system leak
tested and recharged. If the shop is really good they will replace the
safety and refill the system with fresh oil too. This might be a good
time to switch over to one of the drop-in replacements for R-12
anyway. I am having good luck with R-414a, a blended drop-in
replacement. It blows colder then R-12, is compatible with the
origional oil and seals, and is a lot cheaper.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "delorean3543 <Delorean3543@xxxx>"
<Delorean3543@xxxx> wrote:
> I developed a coolant leak (which I have since fixed) and lost most
> of the fluid. with no coolant in the radator the fans quit working.
I
> was out of town at the time so I put some stop leak in the system
and
> began filling and bleeding the system in hopes of making it home
till
> I could do a permenent fix. I my haste I forgot to turn off the A/C,
> the system over heated and a hose (I assume) blew followed by a
large
> R 12 discharge. I work off shore a lot and have not had time to look
> for the place where the system blew but I know it was some where in
> the engine compartment. Any body have a suggestion where to look
> first, i.e. which A/C hose comming off the compressor? As it turns
> out my fan was not going to work because it had throne the blade off
> the motor. I ended up renting a flat bed trailer and calling a
friend
> with a truck. Everything is fixed now except the A/C and I have
> relearned an old lesson....Haste really does make waste. Thanks to
> all who can help
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 20:26:34 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Broken bolt in engine block
Hi Bobby,
See you are in Tyler, Texas. Isn't that where one of the gold plated
DeLoreans is located? In a glass case in a abank? Is it still there?
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 23:59:22 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: JZD's Birthday
I think Monday, January 6th is John Z's 78th birthday. Get those cards in the mail.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 01:42:34 EST
From: AJL521@xxxxxxx
Subject: Dakota Dash
Does anyone on the list have any pics of a Dakota Digital dash. I was
thinking that it would be a nice addition, but I wanted to see it first.
Thanks
Andrew
4194
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 06:52:18 -0500
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
[NOTE: ICE is euro-speak for "In-Car-Electronics". Not a common term in North America]
Hi Andy
First off I should explain that I'm no ICE expert. I CAN read through some
of the rubbish spouted by so-called "audiophiles" and hi-fi shops however.
At the end of the day, the best ICE system for you, is the one that sounds
best _to_you_. Just remember a couple of things:
The lower the frequency of the sound, the less easy it is for your ears to
localise the sound. Putting tweeters in the dash is a very GOOD idea
because the sound rebounds off the windscreen strait to your ears. Both my
other two cars had/have tweeters in the dash facing up towards the
windscreen, supplemented by drivers in the kick-panels. In my old BX the
enclosure created by the door was more than enough to reinforce the bass
produced by the set of JBL components I used in it. In the DeLorean, very
similar speakers used in the rear quarters, did not produce a good bass
response due to lack of enclosure. The positining however, IS very good. I
use my luggage shelf a lot and did not like the idea of speakers taking up
room when there was a perfectly usable space meant for them. I also took
heed of the warning about placing a big magnet next to such important
electronics/electrics.
Bottom line: You can get some pretty decent mid-top speakers that will
mount into the dash in the original position - I used a set of JBLs because
they fall neatly in that niche between "overpriced" and "low quality",
being neither. I replaced the rears with component pairs incorporating a 5"
bass driver which reinforces the mid range nicely complementing the front
speakers. The system still lacks bass, and IMO you'll never get decent bass
without either creating a complex speaker cabinet in the rear quarters (and
there is plenty of room, it's just a really wierd shape). Or adding a bass
box. I don't really use my "cubby hole" behind the driver's seat and have
been thinking of building a small bass box there, however this won't be
much good for the passenger..... It's a tricky situation and one I'll be
thinking about more when the weather gets better and I start driving my car
again.
BTW I'm no head-bangin' bass-hungry dance freak - I just like to hear the
whole tune :-)
Martin
#1458
#4426
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:14:40 EST
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
Robert, Martin, etc. -
maybe what i need is suggestions on what i should be doing. replacing the
rear speakers in their stock location with something acoustically better,
or
building something into the rear wall.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:58:33 -0500
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
Actually it's In-Car Entertainment. Sorry, thought it was an international
term.
Martin
Original Message:
-----------------
[NOTE: ICE is euro-speak for "In-Car-Electronics". Not a common term in
North America]
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 08:08:19 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Broken bolt in engine block
no, that's Snyder, in West Texas, towards Lubbock.
-----Original Message-----
From: Murray Fisher [mailto:murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:27 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Broken bolt in engine block
Hi Bobby,
See you are in Tyler, Texas. Isn't that where one of the gold plated
DeLoreans is located? In a glass case in a abank? Is it still there?
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:46:55 -0000
From: "drdhdmd <yahoodmc@xxxxxxxxxx>" <yahoodmc@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lock Module Connectors
Does anyone know of the model numbers or a source for the lock
module's connectors?
Happy New Year
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 07:45:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
I wasn't going to jump in here, but, what the heck.
I have the kick panel speakers installed by Don Steger
but DID leave the dash speakers installed and use them
as tweeters (installation and rewiring done by
Steger). Sound out of the front is VERY good.
In the rear I used the rear panel and installed a
couple of mid-range pseakers and a Fosgate amp. Then,
to round out the system I have a 10" sub-woofer in the
compartment behind the drivers seat.
Although I'll admit that at my age my hearing is not
what it used to be, I find a very full, rich sound out
of my system ("top of the line" Alpine head unit).
No, I don't produce enough bass to vibrate the insides
of the folks in the cars next to me, but then, that
isn't music.
Just my 2¢.
Dick Ryan
--- Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Robert, Martin, etc. -
>
> maybe what i need is suggestions on what i should be
> doing. replacing the
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 07:52:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
I, too, had my door windows tinted to reduce heat in
the interior of the car. It was one of the best
"modifications" I have ever done. Highly effective.
Dick Ryan
--- "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>"
<hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Shannon
>
> I drove a DeLorean every day in Houston for 10
> years. The best thing
> I did to get the most out of the AC, other than
> regular checkups on
> the AC, was tint on the door windows. A GOOD uv
> blocking tint at
> medium darkness.
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 09:07:47 -0800
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
I have a bass sub-woofer in the box behind the driver's seat. Since low
bass is non-directional you pretty-much feel it rather than hear it, so it
works well for both the driver and passenger.
My setup simply taps the bass off of both rear speakers and amplifies it for
the sub-woofer. The amp is in the bottom of the same box as the speaker.
This is a very simple arrangement, but it provides all the bass I could ever
want, while reducing the load on the rest of the speakers so they don't get
over-driven. I replaced all four old, torn paper speakers with two-way
speakers in the stock locations. Everything looks stock except for the gray
speaker cloth on the replacement driver's seat box cover. This setup also
allows the stock balance and fader controls to work.
A better (and more costly) setup would be a 4-channel amp with built-in
electronic cross-overs. You could run all four channels from the radio
outputs to the amp, only send high and mid-range to the stock locations, and
send only bass to the sub-woofer.
Gary
IN2TIME
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 20:30:01 -0000
From: "IM2WITTY <im2witty@xxxxxxxxx>" <im2witty@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Do you have a Delorean frame for sale?
Does anyone have a Delorean 5 speed frame that they would like to
sell? I am in need of one. Please e-mail me direcly with price,
condition and pic, if possible.
Thank you
im2witty(AT)yahoo.com
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 19:17:33 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lock Module Connectors
There are enough dead modules out there that you won't have a problem I guess.
Martin
#1458
#4426
"drdhdmd " wrote:
> Does anyone know of the model numbers or a source for the lock
> module's connectors?
>
> Happy New Year
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