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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Rear Fascia
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
From: "birdwell77095 <birdwells@xxxxxxx>" <birdwells@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Seat Track Disassembly
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Bah humbug! Santa brought me a melted fuse box...
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Re: Seat Track Disassembly
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Bah humbug! Santa brought me a melted fuse box...
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
14. RE: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Alternator-wiring
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
16. used cats for sale?
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
17. Hey everyone, Nada Guides gave us an xmas present
From: "stitsien <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>" <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>
18. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
19. RE: Hey everyone, Nada Guides gave us an xmas present
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Blown A/C hose
From: "delorean3543 <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>" <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Bah humbug! Santa brought me a melted fuse box...
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
23. Re: Alternator-wiring
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
24. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
25. Re: Alternator-wiring
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 05:33:04 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear Fascia
Either way unless you get really lucky you will pull the rear fascia
to either drill out the bolt OR remove the engine. Before pulling off
the facia I would mnake every attempt to remove the bolt either with
pliers or a right angle drill if there is notheing to grab. It is not
the best way to try to drill out a bolt with a right angle drill so
unless you have a really good shot at it the best approach is to
remove the rear fascia. It isn't that hard, just keep track of all of
the hardware, especially any shims or washers so you can put it back
together the way it was without a lot of adjusting.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "BDM" <bmims1@xxxx> wrote:
> A bolt holding my DeLoreans AC belt tension bracket sheared and is
stuck in
> the engine block. I need to drill this out of the block. It
appears the
> easiest way to get access is to remove the rear fascia.
Alternatively, pull
> the engine for this procedure. What is the best way? I would
appreciate
> any advice.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Bobby Mims
> Tyler, Texas..
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 23:40:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
I have two 8" Alpine type R speakers in a prefabricated Circuit City box. Sounds very nice, and is removable with quick disconnects.
Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com
--- Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
>List,
>
>i am interested in getting rid of those terrible 4x10's and putting something
>half-decent back there. what is the biggest possible speaker that will fit
>in the hole w/o modifying the trim that goes over it? i don't mind making a
>plate or brackets.
>
>4" round? 5.25"? 5x7? 6x9? 6" round?
>
>Soma576@xxxxxxx
>1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
>Fargo, ND 58102
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 12:54:14 -0000
From: "birdwell77095 <birdwells@xxxxxxx>" <birdwells@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
How high do the doors go up? I want to be sure that a Delorean will
not hit a garage door when it's open.
I live in Houston where it's very hot and humid for a good part of the
year. Does the interior color (gray vs black) make any difference in
the inside temperature?
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 14:21:02 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Seat Track Disassembly
Hi Dave.
The seat tracks on my car were rusted solid prior to rework. It was
not necessary to dissassemble them before sandblasting. They came
out great. I couldn't believe it. This was what I did:
Free the motion with a hammer (mine were REALLY rusty)
Sandblast, inside and out, fully assembled.
Slide the sliding part back and forth until the tracks stopped
sounding gritty. This, as a side effect, cleaned the rust off the
balls and off the inside of the track, which were also rusty on my
car's seat tracks.
Paint, making a halfhearted effort not to deliberately paint the
inside of the track.
Lubricate the interior with synthetic grease.
That was that. They move like new, probably better.
I suppose the residue of abrasive might shorten the life of the
tracks by a few thousand cycles, but I don't intend to subject my
seat tracks to the tens of thousands of cycles needed to find out.
One might try to clean out the last residues of abrasive, but I
didn't bother. I don't feel it matters.
From my experience, taking apart the seat tracks prior to
sandblasting sounds like a good idea that sounds like a good idea.
Rick Gendreau 11472
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle <dswingle@xxxx>"
<dswingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone taken the seat tracks completely apart? I want to take
> them apart and clean/repaint. I have the tracks off the seat, but I
> want to take the runners apart prior to sandblasting/painting.
Since
> there appear to be a couple of ball bearings inside the track,
> sandblasting without disassembly would not seem to be a good thing.
I
> can see that I need to drill out a couple of stamped spots, but am
> wondering what anyone may have done to put them back together.
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 09:34:02 -0500
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Bah humbug! Santa brought me a melted fuse box...
I thought I'd do a little Christmas driving until I realized my cooling fans
had stopped working. I peeked into the fuse box and the #7 fuse (engine
control) had melted and took part of the box with it. My guess is THIS is
the reason the fans stopped working.
What would be the best course of action:
1. Attempting to fix the box and rig up the #7 fuse?
Or
2. Replacing the box altogether with a suitably affordable replacement?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:05:11 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
I found it to be too much of a pain to replace those.
This is what I did instead:
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/index.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 7:00 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
List,
i am interested in getting rid of those terrible 4x10's and putting
something
half-decent back there. what is the biggest possible speaker that will
fit
in the hole w/o modifying the trim that goes over it? i don't mind
making a
plate or brackets.
4" round? 5.25"? 5x7? 6x9? 6" round?
Soma576@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 09:17:46 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
The best way to help reduce the interior temperature would be to tint the
windows and cover the windshield. DMC Houston sells a windshield cover that
is designed specifically for the DeLorean.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: birdwell77095 <birdwells@xxxxxxx> [mailto:birdwells@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 6:54 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
How high do the doors go up? I want to be sure that a Delorean will not hit
a garage door when it's open.
I live in Houston where it's very hot and humid for a good part of the year.
Does the interior color (gray vs black) make any difference in the inside
temperature?
Shannon
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:20:15 -0500
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
I have a pair of 5" JBL drivers in my rear quarters. I wouldn't go for
anything larger if using the OEM bracket. I had to drill two more holes in
the mounting bracket to give enough clearance from the wheel arch (see
photo). NB you must have a way of holding the speaker cone away from the
interior trim - I did this by mounting the blastic "rim" that the grill is
meant to snap in to. I picked these speakers for three reasons: 1) the
magnet was only fractinally different in diameter from the original speaker
2) The cone was the same height (length?) as the original speaker and 3) it
was the only set in the shop. (Or I'd have gone for a decent full range
cone).
Don't expect them to sound great - there's no enclosure to reinforce the
cone and even with a Kenwood head unit and those JBLs (which I've used
before) the bass response is terrible.
Here's a pic. Yes, everything's covered in Dynamat Extreme.
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DSCN0519_640.jpg
Martin
#1458
#4426
--- Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
>List,
>
>i am interested in getting rid of those terrible 4x10's and putting
something
>half-decent back there. what is the biggest possible speaker that will
fit
>in the hole w/o modifying the trim that goes over it? i don't mind making
a
>plate or brackets.
>
>4" round? 5.25"? 5x7? 6x9? 6" round?
>
>Soma576@xxxxxxx
>1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
>Fargo, ND 58102
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:25:46 -0500
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
Grey, being a lighter colour, reflects more radiation than black, so a grey
interior will a bit cooler. That said, regardless of colour the DeLorean
makes a lovely oven in hot weather - DMC Houston sell a sun screen I
believe, which will stop your seats heating up (it doesn't matter how good
the AC is, hot leather seats stay hot for AGES!)
Martin
#1458
#4426
(and Citroen Xantia Exclusive with black leather interior - can be quite
unpleasant on a hot day despite very good AC and sunroof)
Original Message:
-----------------
Does the interior color (gray vs black) make any difference in
the inside temperature?
Shannon
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:35:08 -0500
From: "mgutkowski@xxxxxxxxx" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Seat Track Disassembly
To reply to Rick's suggestion directly, let's assume that Dave's balls are
still greasy (sorry, couldn't resist!) - getting sand in the old grease will not just fall out with
continued motion until the grit falls out, as in Rick's case. That said,
there are some really good spray solvents which do a fantastic job of
getting crap out of sealed assemblies like this. Loctite do one (though I
can't remember the code). You can buy it under the guise of "Nitro spray
cleaner" from a model shop, and there's one sold for cleaning electrical
contacts that I've harped on about often enough called Servisol 10. You can
always tell it's the same stuff because it stinks of lemons.
My point is that armed with a can of this stuff you'll most likely to be
able to clean out all the grit and old grease after sandblasting, then do
as Rick suggests and re-grease.
Martin
#1458
#4426
Original Message:
-----------------
From: twinenginedmc12
Slide the sliding part back and forth until the tracks stopped
sounding gritty. This, as a side effect, cleaned the rust off the
balls and off the inside of the track, which were also rusty on my
car's seat tracks.
Paint, making a halfhearted effort not to deliberately paint the
inside of the track.
Lubricate the interior with synthetic grease.
That was that. They move like new, probably better.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:56:05 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Bah humbug! Santa brought me a melted fuse box...
Travis, I have a box replacement. But it would be less expensive to put a
fuse extender in # 7 if you can peel the plastic from around the contacts.
If all the others hasn't done this modification, I would recommend you do so.
The boxes if found can run over $250.00 and the replacement is $95.00 + a lot
of work. The fuse extenders are on the web site, but if want to make your
own, be sure to solder the joints, crimping really isn't good enough.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< What would be the best course of action:
1. Attempting to fix the box and rig up the #7 fuse?
Or
2. Replacing the box altogether with a suitably affordable replacement?
>>
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:02:02 -0000
From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
According to DMC documentation, the height with doors open is about
77 inches. You can find the overall vehicle dimensions reproduced at
http://www.dmcnews.com/faq/t_dims.htm
Happy New Year.
Knut
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "birdwell77095 <birdwells@xxxx>"
<birdwells@xxxx> wrote:
> How high do the doors go up? I want to be sure that a Delorean will
> not hit a garage door when it's open.
>
> I live in Houston where it's very hot and humid for a good part of
the
> year. Does the interior color (gray vs black) make any difference in
> the inside temperature?
>
> Shannon
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:05:15 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> I found it to be too much of a pain to replace those.
>
> This is what I did instead:
> http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/index.htm
Mounting speakers in the rear is a great idea, but I wouldn't
consider this an alternative. I have 6x9" 3channel infinity Kappas
mounted in individual boxes sitting on the rear parcel shelf. And the
stock 4x10" one's are disconnected. This has created a "dead zone"
for sound between the seats and the doors. Sitting in a car with the
stock system in place, the sound is not as clear as newer
speakers/system, but the range is fuller because you have sound on
the sides, and not just the center. If you're going just for base, or
anything like that, then you won't notice anything. But if you're
going for clairity all fullness, then I would reccomend to swap out
the rear speakers as well.
I've been told that 6x4" will fit nicely, although many speaker
manufacturers do still make the 4x10" size. Kenwood makes these with
160 watts peak, and are 3 channels as well I believe. Other than
that, don't go overboard with the speakers inside. You biggest
concern will probably be to soundproof the floor boards. Once you
overcome this, you can focus on clarity rather than loudness. And due
to the DeLorean's smaller than normal cockpit, a little bit of
speaker power goes quite a long way. Only if you put a bazooka tube
under the dash would you need an amp. I run 4 3-way speakers, and 2
tweeters inside, and all are powered off the headunit.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 08:18:57 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
HI Shannon,
I just measured mine. I am sure you will get all kinds of measurements as
different garage doors are built different and cars depend on the load, air
in the tires etc. But mine is a standard car, not lowered....with gas tank
half full and normal air in tires. It measures 71 inches from the floor to
the highest point of the door itself, which is the black trim molding....of
course then the RV mirrors stick out maybe another three inches. In MY
case the car will barely go in with the doors up but too close for
comfort...I never do it that way for fear of bouncing or going over a loose
board or something that would raise it too much.....
As to color of exterior and interior.....my brother was a car dealer most
of his life and when I visited him he would have me pick out a new car from
the outside lot to drive while I was there...He always said pick white or a
light color as black or dark colors are WAY hotter sitting in the sun all
day.....I dunno just HOW Stainless Steel comes in that picture.......we have
hot days here and it gets hot inside the car if it is sitting very long...I
have gray interior.
So take it from there!!
Murray
Vin: 05962
Lic: DMC-XII
> -----Original Message-----
> From: birdwell77095 <birdwells@xxxxxxx> [mailto:birdwells@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 4:54 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
>
>
> How high do the doors go up? I want to be sure that a Delorean will
> not hit a garage door when it's open.
>
> I live in Houston where it's very hot and humid for a good part of the
> year. Does the interior color (gray vs black) make any difference in
> the inside temperature?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 17:20:45 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Alternator-wiring
Hello everyone,
I just got home from messing with the wiring on a fellow
owners' car and doing so discovered something very weird
concerning the alternator...
As I understand the original Alternators only had/have
ONE wire for both sense and light. In the commonly available
wiring schematic there are TWO wires coming from the alternator,
a Brown one and one Brown w/ Yellow stripe.
However, on the wiring schematic I got for my donation to the
MJFox-foundation (courtesy of Bob Zilla) the Brown wire is NOT
present...
In real life I discovered that this wire IS on the car, but seems
to have been butchered AT THE FACTORY! I only had 3 cars to compare,
but I'm willing to bet this is common practice...
The wire with the Yellow stripe runs through the FireWall using
the White plug on the left side (nearest the front of the car)
under the coil/wiring cover. The BROWN wire comes out of the BLUE
plug and is brown on the engine-side, while it's WHITE inside the
pontoon. This corresponds with the schematic...
BUT the brown wire turned out to be snipped off right at the plug AND
was snipped off in the harness, where it splits into bundles going
to the separate plugs...
The wire DOES run to the Alternator, but isn't connected there.
If DMC hadn't done that it would have been SO much easier to retrofit
a different alternator; you'd HAVE the separate lead for volt-sensing...
Putting the Light- and Sense-wires together didn't work on the car
we were working on, so we ended up making a new connection for the
brown wire in the blue plug.
Now the car FINALLY charges its battery again!
Would have been MUCH easier if I'd have had separate contacts
for these plugs; does anyone know if and where I could get any?
Preferably on THIS side of the pond (Europe).
Sure am glad it all worked out, but these stupidities are the
things that can turn a 1 hour job into half a day of work.
What's wrong with insulating the brown wire near the alternator
and leaving it connected in the plug???
Seasons' greetings to everyone,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since sept 2000
-------------------------------
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 12:47:14 -0500
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: used cats for sale?
[NOTE: cat = catalytic converter]
Does anyone have a Delorean cat that they would like to sell. I do not care about the condition of the inner element only that the metal is in decent shape.
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:32:08 -0000
From: "stitsien <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>" <stitsien@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Hey everyone, Nada Guides gave us an xmas present
Well, the short and skinny is that as of 12/30/12 our car's high
value will be $26,700 then $16,600 and last $9,050. We can only hope
with the auction in AZ we can get back to MSRP or there cars :)
Here's the link for anyone that wants to see the good news.
http://www.nadaguides.com/Values/ValueCategoryReport.asp?
UserID=064CE3D4E0E&DID=37620&wSec=2&wPg=1207&CategoryId=9&MakeId=1258&
VehicleId=25164&Year=1981&ColorId=
Matthew Stits
Vin 0789
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 15:06:47 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
On Monday, December 30, 2002, at 11:05 AM, therealdmcvegas
<DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Only if you put a bazooka tube
> under the dash would you need an amp. I run 4 3-way speakers, and 2
> tweeters inside, and all are powered off the headunit.
>
Can one fit a Bazooka tube under the dash? If so, can anyone provide
particulars?
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 16:14:31 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Hey everyone, Nada Guides gave us an xmas present
What I find interesting about the NADA listing is that our cars are listed
in "Classic Exotic" or "Classic Sports" sections.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: stitsien <stitsien@xxxxxxxx> [mailto:stitsien@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 1:32 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Hey everyone, Nada Guides gave us an xmas present
Well, the short and skinny is that as of 12/30/12 our car's high
value will be $26,700 then $16,600 and last $9,050. We can only hope
with the auction in AZ we can get back to MSRP or there cars :
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:45:06 -0000
From: "delorean3543 <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>" <Delorean3543@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Blown A/C hose
I developed a coolant leak (which I have since fixed) and lost most
of the fluid. with no coolant in the radator the fans quit working. I
was out of town at the time so I put some stop leak in the system and
began filling and bleeding the system in hopes of making it home till
I could do a permenent fix. I my haste I forgot to turn off the A/C,
the system over heated and a hose (I assume) blew followed by a large
R 12 discharge. I work off shore a lot and have not had time to look
for the place where the system blew but I know it was some where in
the engine compartment. Any body have a suggestion where to look
first, i.e. which A/C hose comming off the compressor? As it turns
out my fan was not going to work because it had throne the blade off
the motor. I ended up renting a flat bed trailer and calling a friend
with a truck. Everything is fixed now except the A/C and I have
relearned an old lesson....Haste really does make waste. Thanks to
all who can help
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:56:28 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Height of Doors and Interior Color/Heat
Shannon
I drove a DeLorean every day in Houston for 10 years. The best thing
I did to get the most out of the AC, other than regular checkups on
the AC, was tint on the door windows. A GOOD uv blocking tint at
medium darkness. I also tinted the top of the windshield for about 4
inches - the distance from the top to the lower edge of the rear-
view mirror mount. The AC was then as effective as any car AC. The
most difficult time to cool off the car, of course, was after it set
outside for a while in the sun; just like any other car. But, the
windshield cover that goes over the outside was the most effective
for keeping out the heat through the windshield. It also kept the
dash from over heating and getting eaten by uv's.
As for the very thought of driving with the door open – DON'T DO IT.
In a parade, OK. But, don't get into a habit of such a thing.
Experience and listening to entirely too many stories about damage
that just ruin your day tell me that you close the door, then move
the car. Even the slightest damage can screw up the door operation.
That's my advice.
Harold McElraft - 3354
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 23:47:43 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Bah humbug! Santa brought me a melted fuse box...
Travis
Interesting how the DeLoreans do this, isn't it? I have had to do a
few of these and the most effective repair was to put a blade fuse
in the circuit; i.e. go around the box. John H. is right, you should
solder the splice. After you disconnect the battery, the fuse box
comes up easily enough for you to find the pair going to the melted
fuse in the block. Cut them and splice in a new fuse holder. The
wires on the replacement fuse holders allow for enough wire to place
them out of the way but yet be accessible.
I have a theory about why this happens on DeLoreans. It is because
the battery is underneath the fuse compartment. There is a service
bulletin about making sure the battery box vent is clear but, there
is still not enough ventilation to keep out the vapors from the
battery. The vapors cause contacts to corrode, the connections
become ineffective, heat begins to build, and finally a meltdown. On
cars that are driven every day, for example, I have seen no or few
problems. But, let them set with doors and windows closed and this
problem pops up regularly. The problem seems even more pronounced on
cars where a battery tender or charger is used.
To prevent this problem on the remaining fuses in my car and to make
sure the problem does not occur on other contacts I first put a
switch on the battery to disconnect it when the car is going to set
for any length of time. Next, I have replaced the fuses nearly every
year and applied a little contact cleaner to the blades of the fuses
and relays. So far so good (ten years of this routine).
Harold McElraft - 3354
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 00:00:59 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Alternator-wiring
Jan van de Wouw/#05141 "Dagger"
Go to www.specialtauto.com. Everything you ever wanted to know along
with the wiring diagrams for all possible combinations of
alternators on the DeLorean is there. John H is a great resource too.
Harold McElraft - 3354
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:14:40 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
Robert, Martin, etc. -
maybe what i need is suggestions on what i should be doing. replacing the
rear speakers in their stock location with something acoustically better, or
building something into the rear wall.
Right now i have my dash speakers disconnected and i have Don Steger's kick
pods installed for my front sound stage (i was going to run the dash speakers
as tweaters but a local stereo shop said that will be more trouble than it's
worth since i'm running off the deck and not a crossover). in the rear,
there are MTX 4x10's (i think - PO did it) but they are very low power and
sound terrible with my alpine deck. my weakness is now the rear sound stage.
eventually i want to put a single 10" sub in a box on the rear shelf,
however i'm sure i will need to get the rear mids/soundstage sorted out first
or else it will sound really odd. should i try to mount maybe some 6x9's or
something in the rear wall on the far sides and put a sub in the middle (it
would be in a custom box sitting on the shelf) and disconnect the side
speakers? or should i use the stock locations to fill the rear a little more
and settle for a smaller speaker?
basically i don't care about the low-end from the main speakers, but i have
to have good mids and high end in order to have a sub round out the big
picture.
perhaps with this in mind i can get some more specific recommendations on the
way to go?
Thanks!
Andy
In a message dated 12/30/02 1:56:03 PM Central Standard Time,
DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx writes:
> Mounting speakers in the rear is a great idea, but I wouldn't
> consider this an alternative. I have 6x9" 3channel infinity Kappas
> mounted in individual boxes sitting on the rear parcel shelf. And the
> stock 4x10" one's are disconnected. This has created a "dead zone"
> for sound between the seats and the doors. Sitting in a car with the
> stock system in place, the sound is not as clear as newer
> speakers/system, but the range is fuller because you have sound on
> the sides, and not just the center. If you're going just for base, or
> anything like that, then you won't notice anything. But if you're
> going for clairity all fullness, then I would reccomend to swap out
> the rear speakers as well.
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 19:19:04 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Alternator-wiring
Jan, As you may know by now the brown/yellow wire is called the light wire.
That is the only wire used on the new GM regulators that I build. The brown
was use on the early versions of the Delorean but dropped off when the
Motorola came out. FYI to you and others. If the brown wire is hooked up to
most new style alternators it will burn up the regulator after a bit. Without
the brown /yellow wire hooked up the light won't come on and the alternator
won't charge. Also, if the dash light goes out the alternator won't charge.
Use a 161 bulb only. It has the correct resistance.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< I just got home from messing with the wiring on a fellow
owners' car and doing so discovered something very weird
concerning the alternator...
As I understand the original Alternators only had/have ( had two to begin
with )
ONE wire for both sense and light. In the commonly available
wiring schematic there are TWO wires coming from the alternator,
a Brown one and one Brown w/ Yellow stripe.( Light wire,)
However, on the wiring schematic I got for my donation to the
MJFox-foundation (courtesy of Bob Zilla) the Brown wire is NOT
present...( Newer ver of wiring diagram) It shows both versions in the
Technical manual I have.
In real life I discovered that this wire IS on the car, but seems
to have been butchered AT THE FACTORY! I only had 3 cars to compare,
but I'm willing to bet this is common practice...
The wire with the Yellow stripe runs through the FireWall using
the White plug on the left side (nearest the front of the car)
under the coil/wiring cover. The BROWN wire comes out of the BLUE
plug and is brown on the engine-side, while it's WHITE inside the
pontoon. This corresponds with the schematic...
BUT the brown wire turned out to be snipped off right at the plug AND
was snipped off in the harness, where it splits into bundles going
to the separate plugs...
The wire DOES run to the Alternator, but isn't connected there.
If DMC hadn't done that it would have been SO much easier to retrofit
a different alternator; you'd HAVE the separate lead for volt-sensing...
Putting the Light- and Sense-wires together didn't work on the car
we were working on, so we ended up making a new connection for the
brown wire in the blue plug.
Now the car FINALLY charges its battery again!
Would have been MUCH easier if I'd have had separate contacts
for these plugs; does anyone know if and where I could get any?
Preferably on THIS side of the pond (Europe).( Most of the time we snip off
the brown wire never to be used again unless your going back with the oldest
alternator.
Sure am glad it all worked out, but these stupidities are the
things that can turn a 1 hour job into half a day of work.
What's wrong with insulating the brown wire near the alternator
and leaving it connected in the plug???
Diagrams are on the web site if your intrested.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/alternators.shtml
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since sept 2000
>>
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