To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 8 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Possible Serious Problem? From: "Sean <pugrambo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <pugrambo@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: Possible Serious Problem? From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch@xxxxxxxxxx> 3. Re: Metal coolant bottle From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Merry Christmas! From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Metal coolant bottle From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 6. Re: Re: Metal coolant bottle From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx> 7. Re: Metal coolant bottle From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> 8. Re: Re: Possible Serious Problem? From: dherv10@xxxxxxx ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 00:01:29 -0000 From: "Sean <pugrambo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <pugrambo@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Possible Serious Problem? where is the "cast iron" in a PRV engine block ? they are an alloy block and heads you will find that driving the car that short distance will not have harmed the car but from the local volvo dealer you should be able to get a set of 6(six) plug covers that fit on your leads to cover your plugs and keep most of the water out of the holes and more importantly keep most of the dirt out as well so that when you go to change your plugs you won't have the dirt that has fallen in the holes end up in the cylinders --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote: > Scott, Cast Iron can take a lot of heat and not do any damage to the engine > block. There is a gasket that separates the two. As for the plugs, If you > have an air tank you can blow the water out or soak it out with rags or paper > towels. If the plugs and wires need to be replaced, That can be easily done > by taking a few screws out and lifting up the air flow meter about an inch. > If you have never done this, call me when your at the car and I can walk you > through it. > John Hervey > www.specialTauto.com > > > << In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Scott Tester <scott@xxxx> wrote: > > I took my DeLorean to the car wash a week ago and degreased the > engine with a pressure washer. After that it started sputtering and > had a severe loss in power. I pulled a few spark plug wires and of > coarse determined that the problem was water in the spark plug wells. > I knew after seeing it that I would have to disassemble the top of the > engine to replace the spark plugs and wires. > > > > The possible problem is that tonight when I came back from the > grocery store I noticed the engine felt hotter than normal, so I > opened the engine bay. I was in shock as I saw that my header was red > hot, glowing in the dark of my garage! Have I damaged the engine by > driving it just a few miles in this condition? I'm pretty sure it's > just fuel building up and then burning hotter in one or more of the > cylinders that doesn't fire every revolution. But I'm worried it might > have warped or damaged the engine in some way! > > > > Has anyone else experienced this? I checked the archives and all I > could find was mentions of a leaking header gasket causing the > "glowing header". > > >> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 11:40:49 +0100 From: "Arthur G. Sutsch" <agsutsch@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Possible Serious Problem? Date: 25 Dec 2002 Re: 'Glowing Header' Hello Scott, the last (and only) time this happened to me was a completely dead catalytic converter on both sides. I drove the car 3 miles. The telltale sign was no accelereation or power when stepping on the accelerator. It burnt all the rubbers in any joint and gasket I could think off (including suspension). The glow in the engine bay was neat, though. Needless to say, it was a costly experience on an Aston Martin ... Arthur G. Sutsch ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 16:13:10 -0500 From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Metal coolant bottle I like this one better because it looks like an exact replacement for the plastic one. The new metal bottle looks like it wasn't meant for our car. It doesn't fit aesthetically. I need one like yours. Joseph vin 2850 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Noeltner" <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 12:04 PM Subject: [DML] Metal coolant bottle > I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I bought. > It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of tubing > installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle without > opening it. Picture: > http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg > > 1. Who sold this originally? Just curious, as it doesn't really matter. > > 2. The tubing for the level check is getting pretty yellowed. Does anyone > know where I can get some 3/8" ID clear tubing that will handle the > temperatures and pressures of a cooling system? This is a fairly heavy > walled tubing. Much heavier than what I'm finding at the local hardware > stores. Plus, what I've located so far has a max temp of 165 deg (plus or > minus a few degrees depending on who made it). I was figuring 250 to 300 > deg with at least 25 lbs of pressure to be on the safe side. > > It is only a 4" piece of tubing, so it may be that they used the 165 deg > stuff figuring that a short piece like that would hold up fine. > > Anybody know anything about this bottle? My original plastic bottle has > been holding up great, but I figured I would install this alum bottle this > winter to play it safe. > > Thanks! > > Mark N > VIN 6820 > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx > > To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 09:41:59 -0000 From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Merry Christmas! Just wanted to wish everyone else here on the list a Merry Christmas, and Happy Holidays to all! Aside from the usual opening of gifts and cooking of Christmas dinner, I'll be in the garage vacuuming out pine needles from the passenger floorboard of my D (I *must* get my luggage rack installed!). -Robert vin 6585 "X" ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 17:08:10 -0000 From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Metal coolant bottle When I installed a metal coolant header bottle on my car I also thought it would be neat to have a sight gauge to see the fluid level. I couldn't find any clear tubing that would take the heat and pressure. What I ended up doing was running a tube from the overflow fitting under the pressure cap to an overflow bottle. Now the coolant system is always presureized so it cannot foam and I can always see the level and even add some without opening the coolant system. This is exactly how it is now done on all modern cars. My advice would be to plug the fittings that go to the sight glass hose and install an overflow bottle. Be careful with the fitting under the pressure cap. On my bottle it was only a press fit so it can come loose. I reinstalled it with some silicone for a leakproof seal since it is under slight pressure and vacuum. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxx> wrote: > I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I bought. > It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of tubing > installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle without > opening it. Picture: > http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg > > 1. Who sold this originally? Just curious, as it doesn't really matter. > > 2. The tubing for the level check is getting pretty yellowed. Does anyone > know where I can get some 3/8" ID clear tubing that will handle the > temperatures and pressures of a cooling system? This is a fairly heavy > walled tubing. Much heavier than what I'm finding at the local hardware > stores. Plus, what I've located so far has a max temp of 165 deg (plus or > minus a few degrees depending on who made it). I was figuring 250 to 300 > deg with at least 25 lbs of pressure to be on the safe side. > > It is only a 4" piece of tubing, so it may be that they used the 165 deg > stuff figuring that a short piece like that would hold up fine. > > Anybody know anything about this bottle? My original plastic bottle has > been holding up great, but I figured I would install this alum bottle this > winter to play it safe. > > Thanks! > > Mark N > VIN 6820 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 13:54:30 -0600 From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: Metal coolant bottle i would like to see a picture of your set-up for the over flow bottle, could you send me a picture so i can understand your set-up better if you have a digital camera? thanks mark "David Teitelbaum " wrote: > When I installed a metal coolant header bottle on my car I also > thought it would be neat to have a sight gauge to see the fluid level. > I couldn't find any clear tubing that would take the heat and > pressure. What I ended up doing was running a tube from the overflow > fitting under the pressure cap to an overflow bottle. Now the coolant > system is always presureized so it cannot foam and I can always see > the level and even add some without opening the coolant system. This > is exactly how it is now done on all modern cars. My advice would be > to plug the fittings that go to the sight glass hose and install an > overflow bottle. Be careful with the fitting under the pressure cap. > On my bottle it was only a press fit so it can come loose. I > reinstalled it with some silicone for a leakproof seal since it is > under slight pressure and vacuum. > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxx> wrote: > > I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I > bought. > > It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of > tubing > > installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle > without > > opening it. Picture: > > http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg > > > > 1. Who sold this originally? Just curious, as it doesn't really > matter. > > > > 2. The tubing for the level check is getting pretty yellowed. Does > anyone > > know where I can get some 3/8" ID clear tubing that will handle the > > temperatures and pressures of a cooling system? This is a fairly > heavy > > walled tubing. Much heavier than what I'm finding at the local > hardware > > stores. Plus, what I've located so far has a max temp of 165 deg > (plus or > > minus a few degrees depending on who made it). I was figuring 250 to > 300 > > deg with at least 25 lbs of pressure to be on the safe side. > > > > It is only a 4" piece of tubing, so it may be that they used the 165 > deg > > stuff figuring that a short piece like that would hold up fine. > > > > Anybody know anything about this bottle? My original plastic bottle > has > > been holding up great, but I figured I would install this alum > bottle this > > winter to play it safe. > > > > Thanks! > > > > Mark N > > VIN 6820 > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx > > To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 21:27:22 -0000 From: "therealdmcvegas <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Metal coolant bottle I too have always wanted a coolant bottle with a window on the side to measure the coolant level. While doing some last minute shopping yesterday @ Target, I noticed a very unusual SS canister for dry goods. This one has a flush window inplace to see the level of the contents inside. http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=189832 Something like this would be very nice to have on the coolant bottle, except of course to have it mounted verticly. The canister in the link above just uses a plastic insert, and a frame press-fitted into place rather than welded. Does anyone know if this can be done? Eventually when I get around to customizing my interior, I figure on also installing a float just like Volvo cars into the surge tank to activate a warning light when the level is too low. So when I have a custom bottle made, I'd like to have a window like this installed as well. -Robert vin 6585 "X" --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote: > I like this one better because it looks like an exact replacement for the > plastic one. The new metal bottle looks like it wasn't meant for our car. > It doesn't fit aesthetically. I need one like yours. > > > > Joseph > vin 2850 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark Noeltner" <mark@xxxx> > To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2002 12:04 PM > Subject: [DML] Metal coolant bottle > > > > I just got a metal coolant bottle in with some other parts that I bought. > > It's aluminum, with welded connections. It also has a piece of tubing > > installed that lets you check the level of coolant in the bottle without > > opening it. Picture: > > http://www.buffalochips.org/delorean/water-bottle.jpg > > <SNIP> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2002 15:05:35 EST From: dherv10@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: Re: Possible Serious Problem? In a message dated 12/25/02 8:28:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, pugrambo@xxxxxxxxxxxx writes: << where is the "cast iron" in a PRV engine block ? they are an alloy block and heads >> I saw that my header was red hot, It's not in the block, they are attached to it , it's the cast iron headers for the exhaust. John Hervey www.specialtauto.com ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>