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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. wet carpet pad
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Snow/Winter tyres.
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
3. Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: seat covers
From: "ryanjm10014" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
5. RE: seat covers
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: PRV-6 Engine in early Porsche 944 prototype
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: wet carpet pad
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: wet carpet pad
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. marks on crank pulley
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
11. Bus Windows and Brown Interior
From: "treehouse2000us" <treehouse2000us@xxxxxxxxx>
12. No power at 4000 RPM
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 21:19:49 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: wet carpet pad
the last two heavy rains have left the pad under the driver's carpet wet .
The top side feels dry, though cool. It is also only in front of the seat.
The seat is dry... I don't think it is dripping in from the head portion of
the doors.
Where is it coming from?
-Kevin
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 03:32:28 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Snow/Winter tyres.
Michelin Pilot XGT H4 come in DeLorean sizes - No need to go for
different rims, these tires are great in all weather, especially
when they are new. After about 15,000 miles they fall off.
Harold McElraft - 3354
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 03:40:42 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
All went well on my water pump removal save one tiny thing.
The bottom mounting bolt broke!.. The pump is off, but only about
1/8 - 1/4 inch of thread is sticking out of the mounting nub (nub?)
on the head.. and that little bit already rounded off from my vice
grips.
I can't get a drill in there (even with no muffler in the way.. non-
stock exhaust) to tap it, and I've tried even seeing if I could turn
it with a chisel. Being that there is a drain pug (I think it's the
water jacket plug... why it's on the top of the block.. I don't know.
fill me in on what that is) in the way, I can't drill from the back
either. I have some ground effects that would make removing the rear
facsia even less attractive an option that it was before... so i'm
trying to avoid that.
Any tips or tricks to removing such stubborn bolts??
Goddamn. It's such a simplistic engine. I love working on it cause
everything (pretty much) is easy to get to, and look at and replace.
But leaning over that rear facia just kills my back at knees.
I think once I get done putting back together my engine i'm going to
just epoxy coat the entire car.... it's funny how much I hate rust...
on my DeLorean.
Work -- DeLorean -- Sleep, that's my whole day lately.
James 4009 when will get around to changing my userID?
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 04:10:59 -0000
From: "ryanjm10014" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: seat covers
Hey Eric,
My seats are cracking, and until I have the cash to have them
properly redone, I decided to go with some decent sheepskins.
Surprisingly, my results were better than expected.
Head to Costco and look for the Eurow brand universal fit gray
covers. At my location here in SF they only had one brand, one
model, in two colors (a light beige being the other). They were only
$30 each and the gray is a decent match. Admittedly, it's a bit
darker gray than what would be ideal, but it's close enough.
What's nice is that the seat covers are very, very comfortable. The
weirdest adjustment came in sitting higher in the car, as the covers
are 1" thick.
If you haven't got a Costco membership, you probably know somebody
who does. For $60 total it was a great deal.
Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
NCDMC
AZ-D (honorary)
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, <eric@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey everyone
>
> I'm looking into a little protection for my seats. They're in
relatively good shape (a few scratches, no cracks) and I'm looking
into seat covers to keep it that way. What's the consensus on seat
covers? Basically I'm thinking of the Pepboy's grade covers for the
car, what do you guys think of them? Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric Itzel
> vin 04433
> eric@xxxx
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 10:28:19 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: seat covers
Eric,
Personally I would use a good quality leather conditioner regularly. I wipe
it over when I know I'm not using the car for a day or two, then its well
soaked in by the time you need it.
Then use them "uncovered", as they were designed.
It you do leave the car parked in the sun for any length of time, then
simply throw an old white sheet over them to keep the suns rays off.
Leather is very strong and durable in kept in good condition.
I have owned 60 year old cars with good original leather.
Regards Chris P DOC UK....not much sun!
-----Original Message-----
From: eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: 03 December 2002 22:10
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] seat covers
> Hey everyone
>
> I'm looking into a little protection for my seats. They're
> in relatively good shape (a few scratches, no cracks) and
> I'm looking into seat covers to keep it that way. What's
> the consensus on seat covers? Basically I'm thinking of
> the Pepboy's grade covers for the car, what do you guys
> think of them? Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric Itzel
> vin 04433
> eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 14:24:45 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PRV-6 Engine in early Porsche 944 prototype
More PRV-6 talk.
With all the recent High HP PRV-6 talk, I thought I would throw this
little piece of nostalgia into the mix, especially since a lot of
people do not give enough credit to the PRV-6 engine when considering
performance applications for sports cars and race cars.
If you happen to come across a Porsche book written by David Vivian
called "Porsche 924-928-944-968", there is a brief mention of the use
of a PRV-6 engine installed in an EA425 (924) test evaluation car for
the early development of the Porsche 944 project (during 1980-1981).
Although the engine performed well in the prototype, it was decided
that a smaller, all Porsche engine would fit better under the bonnet.
Apparently the PRV-6 was also under early consideration for the 928,
but the larger, all Porsche V8 seemed better for it's flagship car.
However, Porsche designed the new V8 engine for the Bosch K-Jetronic
fuel injection system and used this version through the 1982 models.
Later,
Rich W.
> snip <
>
> If you want to modify, the PRV is actually a lot better
> than you'd think. Mail me off-list for info if interested.
>
> Martin
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 15:25:22 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
If you are really good (and lucky?) you MIGHT be able to remove it
with a right angle drill. I would probably not even try it, instead it
is probably the better way to remove the rear facia even though you
have ground effects and it is a bigger job then usual. It is going to
be very hard to drill that bolt out centered and straight with a right
angle drill. It is hard even when you can get at it straight! The only
other possability is to use heat and then try to turn the bolt but you
said you messed it up so you can't do that. A more exotic method of
removal which I never used to remove a steel bolt from aluminum is to
place a nut and a washer over the broken bolt and then weld the broken
bolt to the nut. The heat from welding loosens up the bolt and now you
have a really good way to put a wrench on it. Of course you need room
to do this and see what you are doing so you would still probably have
to remove the rear facsia anyway. Hey, if was easy everybody would be
working on their Deloreans! You have all winter so look at the bright
side.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx> wrote:
> All went well on my water pump removal save one tiny thing.
> The bottom mounting bolt broke!.. The pump is off, but only about
> 1/8 - 1/4 inch of thread is sticking out of the mounting nub (nub?)
> on the head.. and that little bit already rounded off from my vice
> grips.
> I can't get a drill in there (even with no muffler in the way.. non-
> stock exhaust) to tap it, and I've tried even seeing if I could turn
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 12:07:18 -0400
From: "Joshua Weader" <weader@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wet carpet pad
> the last two heavy rains have left the pad under the driver's carpet
> wet . The top side feels dry, though cool. It is also only in front
> of the seat.
>
> Where is it coming from?
On my car, the water is coming in through the front directly under the windshield. The drain in the middle of the windshield that empties out over the gas tank apparently leaks somewhere, and the water runs in there. To see if this is the case, first remove the carpet and pad and dry the car. Then pour some water down the windshield drain, and look for water running down the center side of the footwell.
While we're on the subject... does anyone have any ideas how I (and anyone else with this problem) might go about finding and fixing the leak? Near as I can tell, the actual leak is somewhere behind the air distributor behind the dash. The distributor's on the bottom of everything (of course), and I don't see any way of investigating further without completely gutting the interior of the car. Suggestions?
--Josh
#5553
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2002 09:50:34 -0700
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: wet carpet pad
Look in the channel just behind the windshield. If you can see thin foam or
headliner material sticking out past the weatherstrip, then yours is
probably doing what mine was. The headliner material sticking through will
"wick" the water right on through to the interior. Enough water and it
drips right in front of the seat and will soak the floor.
If this is it, just take a razor knife and trim the excess material, then
seal the area with silicone caulk.
Otherwise look at the Service bulletiin for leaks on this page (
http://www.dmcnews.com/files.html ) about halfway down:
ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/ST33.pdf
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 09:19 PM 12/3/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>the last two heavy rains have left the pad under the driver's carpet wet .
>The top side feels dry, though cool. It is also only in front of the seat.
>
>The seat is dry... I don't think it is dripping in from the head portion of
>the doors.
>
>Where is it coming from?
>-Kevin
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 18:37:16 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: marks on crank pulley
Hey everyone,
what does the 2nd mark on the crankshaft pulley represent? i noticed that
when the #1 piston is at TDC, the 2nd mark is at about 8 oclock on the
pulley. there is no mention in the shop manual about it.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2002 00:13:01 -0000
From: "treehouse2000us" <treehouse2000us@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Bus Windows and Brown Interior
Or mabye just the standard black will do.
I was in the archives reminising about the old days when DeLoreans
had sliding windows, airbags and a (partial) digital dash. Ok, so
the styling wasn't quite on, but I think the prototypes were a bit
better, well mabye not!
I have a very simple question, 2 of them really. Does anybody on the
list own a Very Rare Prototype, I think only 8-10 of them were
built. I read on the list a few years back that a guy found one of
these cars rotting in a front yard rusting away, and I also think a
tree branch smashed the front window. At first he knew it was a
DeLorean (the list member), but didn't realize it was a prototype,
even though he made the distinction that the car had sliding
windows. I wonder if anybody bought that car, or owns another one.
(Just for perserving history- I'm not going to steel it.
And the second question. I have also heard of pre 500 vin cars
around, not many due to them being disasembled back into parts. Does
anybody on the list have a pre 500 car? (I know a few have been sold
at auctions, but the ones I have heard of are ragged out/rusted).
And also, lastly, a third question...just came to mind, why are these
early cars all destroyed (the ones I have heard about). These people
dont know a unique car when they see it, not to mention an
irreplacible prototype/ pre production? I guess people have all
kinds of money to waste. I just hope the magots dont get to the
wooden mockup DMC. It appears that may be the only one left!
Tom Porter/ ME, USA
Vin: Summer/Fall 2003
'Donations Appreciated'
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 19:31:38 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: No power at 4000 RPM
Recently I posted a message asking for ideas on what could be causing
the drop in power at full throttle once the engine started going past
4000 rpm.
I installed a gauge to measure fuel system pressures.
All reading were taken on a cold engine, 70 F ambient temperature.
Control Pressure = 2 bar
Primary Pressure = 4.9 bar
Rest Pressure = 2.9 bar
Rest Pressure after 10 minutes = 2.5 bar
Looking at my chart, it looks like primary pressure is at the bottom end
of the allowable checking pressure 4.9 to 5.5 bar.
I can set the primary pressure to the setting range of 5.1 to 5.3 bar.
My question is;
Will raising the primary pressure affect the Control Pressure?
Is there a way to adjust the Control Pressure?
How is it done?
Maintenance History
Major tune-up performed just before Nashville trip.
New coil last week.
New fuel filter 3 weeks ago.
Fuel pump suction strainer is clean.
Fuel suction pipe is rigid and has no leaks.
Air Filter is clean.
No signs of vacuum leaks. All lines connected correctly.
So, what do you guy's think?
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 20:35:49 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
Welcome to the club. Thats the same one I broke off. Unfortunately you will
have to remove the rear facia to get at the bolt. You will also need a stub
drill bit and a right angel drill adapter and lots of patience. If you
loosen the motor mounts, its possible to raise the engine a little to get a
better shot at the broken bolt.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: James LaLonde <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 10:40 PM
Subject: [DML] Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
> All went well on my water pump removal save one tiny thing.
> The bottom mounting bolt broke!..
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2002 21:04:14 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Water Pump woes, nearing end of tear down.
James, When that happens to me, I cut the top off flat with a dremmel tool,
use a pointed punch to start the hole in the middle and with a small drill
bit, drill through the bolt. Then goto the next size larger drill bit and so
on till you have most of the bolt eaten away. Then I put in the EZ out and
normally they come out. If you can't get to it. Check with sears on a right
angle drill head..
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< All went well on my water pump removal save one tiny thing.
The bottom mounting bolt broke!.. The pump is off, but only about
1/8 - 1/4 inch of thread is sticking out of the mounting nub (nub?)
on the head.. and that little bit already rounded off from my vice
grips.
I can't get a drill in there (even with no muffler in the way.. non-
stock exhaust) to tap it, and I've tried even seeing if I could turn
it with a chisel. Being that there is a drain pug (I think it's the
water jacket plug... why it's on the top of the block.. I don't know.
fill me in on what that is) in the way, I can't drill from the back
either. I have some ground effects that would make removing the rear
facsia even less attractive an option that it was before... so i'm
trying to avoid that.
Any tips or tricks to removing such stubborn bolts??
Goddamn. It's such a simplistic engine. I love working on it cause
everything (pretty much) is easy to get to, and look at and replace.
But leaning over that rear facia just kills my back at knees.
I think once I get done putting back together my engine i'm going to
just epoxy coat the entire car.... it's funny how much I hate rust...
on my DeLorean.
Work -- DeLorean -- Sleep, that's my whole day lately.
James 4009 when will get around to changing my userID?
>>
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