To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 10 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: License Plate suggestions From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx> 2. Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm From: "hmcelraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> 3. (unknown) From: "jberam1" <jberam@xxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Dallas Mechs From: "camracerx" <camracerx@xxxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Delorean Financing (other options) From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. New tank sender thoughts From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx> 7. ATTN: James LaLonde -- another D parting out on eBay From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 8. Dealer/Sales Brouchures Wanted From: P12C16@xxxxxxx 9. Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> 10. Steering Rack Question/Info From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 00:44:56 -0500 From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: License Plate suggestions I thought for quite a while about this one. What I came up with felt to be quite unique. Do you have a place around you that makes custom plate frames? You ever heard of the phrase "Spread Your Wings and Fly!"? How about a little play on that. spread your GULWNGS and fly! GULWNGS is the plate and the rest could be on the frame. Catchy, enthusiastic, it isn't spelled perfectly (which is good in my book), and no BTTF reference! -Mike A. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:07:57 -0000 From: "hmcelraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm Scott If it ran fine before the control pressure regulator change I would suspect that there is a vacuum line messed up. The routing of the lines is tricky and easy to mess up so check the routing. Also, be sure to check the condition of the lines and be sure the one way delay valve at the regulator is installed the correct direction. Harold McElraft 3354 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 18:15:25 -0000 From: "jberam1" <jberam@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: (unknown) I keep my DeLorean stored for most of the year (I'm away at college) and it's always a pain to reconnect and then disconnect the battery each time I want to use the car. I was planning on getting a cheap jackknife battery cut-off switch when I came across the Battery Buddy (the website is www.batterybuddy.com). Basically it's a product that you connect to the battery's hot terminal and it keeps an eye on how much power is still running through it. When the power drops past a certain point, it cuts the circuit. It comes with a remote for resetting the circuit, or you can do it from the unit itself. You can also set the product to "off," which cuts the power to the battery manually. (This is a description of the Battery Buddy III; they have other models with fewer features.) I haven't ordered the thing yet (I've seen it priced at $55-$70, which doesn't seem too high to me), as I'm not yet sure if it will fit in the DeLorean's battery compartment (the Battery Buddy measures 1-5/8" x 2-1/8" x 2-1/8"). I was wondering if anyone has tried this product yet, and with what degree of success. (And hopefully, if the product pans out, new DeLorean owners with battery troubles won't have to go though any of the headaches I've gone through.) What do you guys think? ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 21:31:22 -0000 From: "camracerx" <camracerx@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Dallas Mechs Where do folks in Dallas, Texas prefer to go for DeLorean repairs and maintenance. I am buying my first D, after years of lusting. Would like to have someone give it the once over and perform any lacking recall upgrades and such. Chris ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 23:31:41 -0000 From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Delorean Financing (other options) Jeff and other potential Delorean buyers, "Smaller scale" Delorean financing is available to potential buyers that are "better than half way there" but do not have all the funds available to get their Delorean "now" and pay off the balance over a small period of time (such as a year or less). I have sold several of my refurbished Deloreans "on payments" to buyers that could put 2/3 down and pay the rest off within a year. These cars usually need detail work, such as fascia repainting, interior restoration, etc. that a new owner could do while waiting to pay off the car and get the title upon final payment. In at least one case, with a long term project car, I was able to extend the payments to nearly two years, since the new owner is doing a complete restoration and the car will not be roadworthy before it is paid off and the new owner gets the title. This may be an option for you or other potential new Delorean owners. Currently, I have no long term project cars available, but I will have an '81 5-speed refurbished car that I will be posting to the DMCNEWS For Sale web page by January or February if a local club member does not buy it first. I may also have an '81 automatic to post by late winter or early spring, depending upon my free time. So keep an eye on those For Sale ads, there is still some hope yet. Hope this may help a potential new Delorean owner. Later, Rich W. --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jeff" <Gr8old1@xxxx> wrote: > Like many others who saw a glimmer of hope for getting our own D. > > snip < > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:24:57 -0800 (PST) From: Sonny V <sonnyvr2000@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: New tank sender thoughts Hey all - Got my new tank sender this past Wednesday from DMC in Texas. Warren said it would arrive on Wednesday and he was right! I didn't have time to install it until today, but it was quite easy to do and came with illustrated instructions. The tank sender is metal, unlike the original plastic one that I took out. It has the same kind of three terminal plug like the original one, though, so it just plugs right in. It also comes with a new thicker seal to replace the original one. When I first turned the key on after installing it, the low fuel light came on and it read about 1/16 of a tank on the gauge. I went to the gas station, filled up with 11.4 gallons. The manual says the car has a 13.2 gallon tank, which would have meant that I had about 1.8 gallons left in the tank. So far so good. I will keep the list posted on my experience with the unit. Sonny #3669 --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 04:49:53 -0000 From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: ATTN: James LaLonde -- another D parting out on eBay Another D is currently being parted out on Ebay. Will eventually get down to pontoon (with perhaps a frame attached?). If you're truly serious about restoring 1697, would probably be path of lesser resistance. Didn't want to say anything before, but these little silver cars seem to be one step below unibodies after a collision -- no telling how force of impact affected entire body structure (you already see what it did to driver's rear). I'm sure frame is OK (is more massive than my Lincolns!). I'm just concerned about everything bolted to it. Other thought: rustle yourself up a pitiful fixer upper. The more pitiful, the better (translated: cheaper). All you need is intact fiberglass (and a hood & fender). Two people could probably lift off and transfer to your frame, which conveniently includes the engine & driveline already bolted up!. Really isn't much to the interior -- you could transfer yourself over a couple of weekends. BTW: you didn't mention windshield damage -- did it survive intact? Keep us posted, Bill Robertson #5939 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 00:04:32 EST From: P12C16@xxxxxxx Subject: Dealer/Sales Brouchures Wanted Hey there gang, I am looking to complete my DeLorean collection and I need to following items. If you have any you would like to sell, please email me at P12C16(AT)aol.com 1.) Small Dealer Brouchure 2.) Tri-fold Brouchure 3.) The Prototype DMC postcard of the DMC in front of a building(its on Tamir's site) 4.) Any other dealer material Many thanks! Patrick ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 05:17:37 -0000 From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: No power beyond 4000 rpm Hard to say what it is exactly. It could be fuel or ignition. I would pick ignition to start. The first area to suspect is the ignition wires, spark plugs, coil, cap and rotor. If all of these check out make sure the mechanical advance and the vacuum advance are operating. A stuck mechanical advance would cause this exact problem. If it isn't electrical it could be fuel delivery. A dirty fuel filter, kinked pickup hose in the tank, bad or incorrect fuel pump are among the first things to check. One bad tank of gas can fill the fuel filter up with enough dirt to plug it up. After removing the filter you could cut it open to see how dirty it is. Another thing to check the the throttle linkage. Make sure it opens all the way when you step all the way down on the pedal. Have someone sit in the car with the motor off and step on the pedal while you watch the linkage on the throttle spool. It should hit the micro at WOT (Wide Open Throtttle) and when released it should hit the idle micro. David Teitelbaum vin 19757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote: > Scott, Now that that has been replaced. I would be sure the 02 adjustment is > now correct. In other words, get the car hot and readjust. Be sure the spark > advance/timing is ok. If this doesn't do it, then you many need to look at > the injectors. Clean or new makes a big difference. > > << My car has no power beyond 4000 rpm. > > It was having hard start problems. A new warm-up regulator solved that > problem. > > Now it won't run past 4000 rpm while driving. > > Last spring, I did a major tune-up and it ran fine. My fuel > pump/suction line/strainer are fine. I have a new accumulator and fuel > filter installed. Also the injectors were replaced last spring. > > What should I do next? I can't remember if this is a characteristic of > a failing coil. The car has about 27K on it. > > What do you think? > >> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 22:39:31 -0700 From: Stephen Jarvis <jarvist@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Steering Rack Question/Info I am in the process of replacing a torn steering rack boot on the driver's side. According to the manual and descriptions by DML members,the rack should be removed, stood upright with driver's side up, and .3 pints of SAE-EP 90 added to the unit before replacing the boot. Interestingly, a very reputable local shop here in Denver that specializes in rebuilding racks says that they pack vitually all their manual racks with grease. Is the Delorean fluid-filled manual rack unusual? Is there an advantage to one over the other? I also discovered the driver's side rack boot to be identical to that of a Fiat Strada. The rack boot from the Fiat 128 had been mentioned on one of the cross-reference lists as a replacement, but I found it to be shorter and did not have the additional small bellow on the end (hence the difference in length). Steve #3542 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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