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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 23 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: DeLorean keyed
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
2. Re: DeLorean keyed
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: DeLorean keyed
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: DeLorean keyed
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Fan Fail
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Fan Fail
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Fascia Alignment
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Fascia Alignment
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: 1697 update and pics
From: "Kevin Rawlings" <kdrawlings@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: 1697 update and pics
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: 1697 damage - photo inspection
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: 1697 update and pics
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: A number 7 fuse short circuit
From: ttanaka504@xxxxxxx
14. Re: DMC Houston
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Sticky throttle
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. on the move again
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. which way to turn engine?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
18. Delorean for Sale in NJ
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Delorean 3536 possibly for sale-North Carolina
From: "FLEWBUG" <flewbug@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Payne Re: Sticky throttle
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: which way to turn engine?
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: 1697 update and pics
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Delorean Repairs
From: "Dennis Alberts" <DBJCFam@xxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:18:00 -0500
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean keyed
John,
I don't know about taking out key marks, but you may want to be careful because I feel people *do* single out classic and exotic cars to vandalize. This topic has been brought up on the list in the past: I personally have had food thrown at my DeLorean, but others here have had much more harrowing experiences than that. You may just want to be doubly careful leaving your car unattended for any long stretches of time if you live in a city you feel has problems with car vandalism, but in my view everyone is the same everywhere, so you may not need to worry about this any more than all of us do. (Well, at least *I* do.)
Richard
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:48:04 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean keyed
On Mon, 11 Nov 2002, john fredt wrote:
> I live in a city where people often key cars for no reason other than
> they can.What repair will I be able to do if someone keys my D in a
> parking lot?Will it buff out easily or not?
No problem. If you get lucky, they'll ruin their key.
The DeLorean stainless is harder than the metal used to make keys. Any
scratches that occur will rub out with the usual brush-the-grain
technique.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 08:58:38 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean keyed
john fredt wrote:
>
> I live in a city where people often key cars for no reason other than they can.What repair will I be able to do if someone keys my D in a parking lot?Will it buff out easily or not?
There's no certain answer to that question. My experience is that when someone keys a car they usually do it quickly, using light pressure. You can remove that sort of light scratch
from a DeLorean in a few minutes with a Scotchbright pad.
But if the vandal anticipates this, he could press hard and make a pretty deep gouge. This damage would be more serious. However, keys are made of softer metal than DeLoreans. You'd
have the satisfaction of knowing that the vandal probably ruined his key. Tell the police to look for the punk who is locked out of his car.
If the vandal uses a knife or screwdriver, then he could make a nasty scratch. But it would take a very knowledgeble and determined vandal to do that.
Still, no car is more impervious to vandalism from keys, spray paint, etc. than a DeLorean. I don't care if you've got a Hummer, or a Ferrari, or an M-1 Abrahams Main Battle Tank . . .
only the DeLorean can be cleaned with a Scotchbright pad, acetone, mineral spirits, and turpentine!
(Warning: I haven't actually tried it myself, but I've heard that all of these non-halgenated solvents are safe for stainless. If someone knows better please say so. Under all
circumstances, keep solvents away from non-stainless parts of your DeLorean!)
- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280, clean and beautiful for almost 9 years!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 06:33:58 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean keyed
If your car gets "keyed" not only will it be hard to do but it won't
be very noticable (I am assuming it isn't painted). In the event it
does get keyed (scratched) the repair is simple. Get some #80 grit
sandpaper and rub WITH the grain. Go over it with #120 grit and finish
with a blending pad. You will never see it after you finish.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, john fredt <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxx> wrote:
>
>
> I live in a city where people often key cars for no reason other
than they can.What repair will I be able to do if someone keys my D in
a parking lot?Will it buff out easily or not?
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive medley & videos from Greatest Hits CD
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 21:23:02 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fan Fail
Jack, I know you have had some other answers. But as the fans get older and
the brushes wear down and they don't wake up as fast together when voltage is
applied, one may have back pains getting up and the other is just slow. Light
comes on. A good cleaning wouldn't hurt.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< New problem for me...
When I start my D, the cooling fan goes on as soon as it starts and the fan
fail light goes on. After running for a minute it goes off and every once
and a while the fan fail flashes on and then off. After it is warmed up,
the problem seems to go away.....
Any ideas what to look for?
Kind Regards,
Jack
5823
>>
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 06:30:10 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fan Fail
The things that would cause the fans to run immediatly on start-up are
1) the A/C is turned on and running (it overrides the otterstadt
switch)
2) the otteratdt switch is bad.
Turn off the A/C and pull the wires to the otterstadt switch. This
should keep the fans from running. Put the wires back on the
otterstadt switch and try again but it probably should be replaced.
I would also replace the fan fail relay. A bypass is better but the
Fanzilla is best. The bypass wire won't operate the fan fail light and
it will eventually burn up.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Jack Singer" <jsinger@xxxx> wrote:
> New problem for me...
>
> When I start my D, the cooling fan goes on as soon as it starts and
the fan
> fail light goes on. After running for a minute it goes off and
every once
> and a while the fan fail flashes on and then off. After it is
warmed up,
> the problem seems to go away.....
>
> Any ideas what to look for?
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Jack
> 5823
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 23:49:32 -0500
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fascia Alignment
I had a gap in my fascia but my body shop guy made it perfect. Take it to
them. Sometimes they have little tips and tricks.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: <Delorean17@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 5:46 PM
Subject: [DML] Fascia Alignment
> Hi List,
> I finally picked up my repainted fascias from the body shop today. It
> cost nearly $650.00 but they turned out very well. The front fascia was
very
> poorly aligned when I first got the car so I want to correct this when
> reinstalling the repainted one. The gap between the front of the fender
and
> the fascia was very large. I see that on most DeLoreans there is
literally
> no gap between the fascia and the fender. Even if I put pressure on the
> front of the fascia to close the gap it wont seem to get much smaller.
There
> there doesnt seem to be any adjustment for this type of front/back
movement
> on the front fascia. Has anyone else ever had this problem? I have
already
> tried moving the brackets and the front fender but there is still a little
> gap. All my friends say to leave it alone and that no one would notice it
> but me...but I'd really like to figure it out. The judge in Memphis even
> pointed out to me that the fascia didnt fit well;)
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Dave,
> Rockford, MI
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:26:55 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fascia Alignment
Subject Re Fascias Alignment
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Delorean17@xxxx wrote:
...
The gap between the front of the fender and
> the fascia was very large. I see that on most DeLoreans there is
literally
> no gap between the fascia and the fender. Even if I put pressure
on the
> front of the fascia to close the gap it wont seem to get much
smaller. There
> there doesnt seem to be any adjustment for this type of front/back
movement
> on the front fascia. Has anyone else ever had this problem? ...
Hi Dave.
I've had this problem. My fascia had shrunk from harsh storage.
It's surprisingly hard to fix. I closed the gap on my car using a
right angle bracket attached to the front fender mounting point and
an anchor bolt. It's hard to describe verbally. If you send me your
email, I can send you a picture. Though the repair successfully
closes the gap, it's likely to be frowned upon even more by judges
than the gap is. At least the bad fit of the body parts is original
equipment, hee hee hee.
Rick Gendreau
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 08:52:42 -0000
From: "Kevin Rawlings" <kdrawlings@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1697 update and pics
Those are some really sad pictures, James. Pretty painful to look
at. But one thing you do notice in them is how well the front end
crumpled, saving everything behind the hood almost completely intact,
with only a little bit of bending. You can still open the doors,
which is more than can be said for a lot of other cars in that kind
of accident. For a 40 mph crash, I think that's pretty good. John
DeLorean did build a good, safe car.
Kevin Rawlings
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx> wrote:
> Well bad news...
> upon closer inspection it looks like the damage was substantial
> enough to perhaps total the car. No word from Metlife yet... but I
> think they'll scrap her. I will be keeping the salvage regardless.
>
> From there my two choices are A) look into repairing her or B) buy
> another DeLorean, and restore it from 1697's parts, and then part-
out
> the rest of 1697. Perhaps there's a way that I can sell 1697's vin
> plates or frame or engine or whathaveyou..... basically sell her in
> enough of one piece to keep the vin alive...
> but unfortunatly that may not come to fruitation. She may be fully
> dead.
> Be you own judge, fellas;
>
> http://www.rock-n-horse.com/1697/
>
> The windshield was, in fact, cracked on the passenger side.
>
> sigh.....
>
> James 1697
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 07:06:51 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 1697 update and pics
Wow, I bet you are glad that you were not in a Hugo. Glad to hear that you
were not injured.
Perhaps you should just save the front DMC logo and build a new car around
it.
Scott Mueller
002981
DOA 5031
DML
DMC Forum
RDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: James LaLonde [mailto:deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 11:38 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] 1697 update and pics
Well bad news...
upon closer inspection it looks like the damage was substantial
enough to perhaps total the car. No word from Metlife yet... but I
think they'll scrap her. I will be keeping the salvage regardless.
From there my two choices are A) look into repairing her or B) buy
another DeLorean, and restore it from 1697's parts, and then part-out
the rest of 1697. Perhaps there's a way that I can sell 1697's vin
plates or frame or engine or whathaveyou..... basically sell her in
enough of one piece to keep the vin alive...
but unfortunatly that may not come to fruitation. She may be fully
dead.
Be you own judge, fellas;
http://www.rock-n-horse.com/1697/
The windshield was, in fact, cracked on the passenger side.
sigh.....
James 1697
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:34:19 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1697 damage - photo inspection
James,
From the photos and your descriptions, it appears that the initial
impact from the accident (front right) has caused the underbody to
shift diagonally on its frame mounts. In most cases, this results
in cracked or elongated holes in the fiberglass underbody. This
explanation should help you to understand the left rear damage from
the slight twist that occurred from the power of the front impact.
You may want to remove the rear fascia, to relieve the stress on the
left rear corner of the fascia, to prevent tearing or stud pull-out.
Of course, you will probably need to wait until the claim has been
processed before you can do much. Keep a cover on the car for now.
Depending upon the extent of the damage, a body - frame separation
may be the easiest way to do both a full inspection and repairs.
The good news is this would be an excellent opportunity to inspect
the entire frame for rust, replace TAB's (if not done recently),
replace the hard steel brake lines with new stainless brake lines
and other related tasks that are best done with the body off.
As for replacement parts, both the vendors and many individuals
have parts you can get to facilitate the repairs. Although I rarely
sell my spare parts, since I try to use everything on my projects,
including damaged panels (hover conversion), I do have several
partial underbodies that would make good donors for your repairs.
Let me know if you need or wish to go this route.
From the photos you have posted, without seeing the frame and other
details, my first impression is that 1697 is very repairable.
Good luck on "getting her back" and getting her back in shape.
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx> wrote:
> Well bad news...
> upon closer inspection it looks like the damage was substantial
> enough to perhaps total the car. No word from Metlife yet... but I
> think they'll scrap her. I will be keeping the salvage regardless.
>
> snip <
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 14:59:03 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1697 update and pics
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx> wrote:
> Well bad news...
> upon closer inspection it looks like the damage was substantial
> enough to perhaps total the car. No word from Metlife yet... but I
> think they'll scrap her. I will be keeping the salvage regardless.
Hi James.
It can definitely be fixed. It's definitely totalled. I hope you'll
sell the hulk intact to some one who can fix it cheaply by repairing
the fiberglass and straightening any metal that can be straightened.
Is that Cadillac grill from the other car in the picture? It looks
like you got a souvenir.
Rick Gendreau
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 03:02:16 EST
From: ttanaka504@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: A number 7 fuse short circuit
To List;
I feel that I am very lucky to know the DMC list,
Thank you very much for telling advice, spending your
important time, and showing great knowledge.
I will work on this weekend (I want do right now but
I have to work for eat)
By the way, Volvo 760 and 780's engine,B280F, has
a water-cooled oil cooler. I don't know why they add it
even 10 HP extra engine If I compare B28F and B280F,
(I know some change in both engine)
Volvo must have the reason because if they save a production
design $1, they can save a lot of money in mass production
someone who add extra HP might be interested in the oil cooler.
It is fit our engine with a little hard work. (I got most parts from
Volvo 760 in a junk car for $120, if new oil cooler core,
it costs more than $300 in Volvo) and it might be our engine life
longer when we instal an oil cooler right.
Thanks again
Blacknight
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:20:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Houston
Jamse,
I saw the pics you posted on 1697. Thank heavens it
was the passenger side is all I have to say. Any
accident you walk away from is a good accident. I
think the car would be a very interesting canidate for
restoration. It would be awesome in my eyes to see her
back to her old glory and stand as one D that defide
death! I wish you all the best of luck with this
endever. I think you can do it!
Todd
Vin 5386
--- James LaLonde <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Well Marc and everybody,
> My previous statements hold true about commercialism
> and DMCH...but
> i view it in a whole new light now.
>
> I spoke with Steve Wynne this evening about the
> repairs to my car,
> and it was the polar opposite to previous
> experiences I've had with
> DMCH. He was knowledgable, caring and gave me lots
> of options and
> figures to mash around in my wreck-rattled brain.
> It's now a matter of time frame.. who can do it
> quicker. Grady or
> Houston.
> And baring that I guess I'll have to base my
> decision on accent...
> New Yorker or European/australian (sorry Steve I can
> never tell.. I
> guess all us yanks sound alike to you huh? :P ).
>
> Armed with good customer service and friendly
> knowledgable help such
> a Mr Wynne's... DMCH commercialism takes on the
> light of a robust
> and successful business that is still grounded in
> the care and
> wellbeing of the cars and owners.
>
> Rob Grady, this diminishes your great establishment
> by nothing,...
> it does make it harder to decide who to patronize!
>
> Lets all thank all of our venders simply for
> extisting to help out
> in terrible situations such as my own.
>
> THANKS!
> James 1697
>
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
U2 on LAUNCH - Exclusive greatest hits videos
http://launch.yahoo.com/u2
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 16:40:23 -0800
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sticky throttle
I'm assuming this started because of the cold weather, but lately my car
won't return to idle right away. It will drop down to 1,450 RPMs and just
sit there. A few jabs at the throttle will get it down again, but it gets
rather annoying as I don't like to shut it off if it's still dumping in
fuel. Could this be part of my pesky vacuum leak that has been the bane of
my existence? All of my attempts to lubricate the throttle cable have been
ineffective. There's got to be a better way of doing it.
Thanks for all your time!
payne
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 18:49:28 -0700
From: "Matthew P. Olans" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: on the move again
Well folks,
This week I am in Boston with a colleague. If any DeLorean owners
would like to get together on Thursday for dinner and/or drinks, please drop
me an email.
Matthew
VIN #10365
VIN #16816
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Matthew's e-mail address is mpolans(at)creeper.com]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 10:18:01 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: which way to turn engine?
Hey all,
i am ready to adjust my valves. but i have to know which direction to turn
the crankshaft in!! clockwise or counter clockwise??
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 20:53:47 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean for Sale in NJ
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: There is a "DMC for sale" section on the DMCNews web site that would be ideal for this.]
Recently a Delorean Mid-Atlantic club member contacted me that he is
trying to sell his car. I offered to forward his information on to the
DML and the DMA Club Members in attempt to help him out. Below is his
original e-mail message with the details on the car.
If you are looking, or know somebody who is, please forward on this
information.
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
My car I'm putting up for sale is a 1981 Delorean-
VIN#SCEDT26TOBD003987. It has approximately 10,300 miles on it. I
purchased it in July 1997 and it had 6,200 miles on it at that time.
Since then I've installed a new radiator,transmission computer governer,
power window regulators, lift pistons, rear CV boots, Tankzilla, and
Fanzilla. The front end has been lowered 1 1/2 inches with coil springs
from PJ Grady. (of course I still have the originals.) Tires were
replaced in 1997 as the originals were dry-rotted. I'm asking $15,000.
It has an Automatic Transmission
Contact Information:
Neal Jackson
710 Pt. Eliz.Cumb. Rd.
Millville,NJ.08332 (856) 825-0671
amerheat@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 15:52:47 -0000
From: "FLEWBUG" <flewbug@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean 3536 possibly for sale-North Carolina
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: There is a "DMC for sale" section on the DMCNews web site that would be ideal for this.]
I'm considering putting this on eBay for a friend. Is anyone
interested?
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 17:30:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Payne Re: Sticky throttle
I see you're back on road. Good.
In stock application, idle speed is set by motor attached to driver's
side intake rail, totally blocking access to ignition distributor.
Should have been gizmo you replaced electrical plug on. Idle motor
doesn't care about vacuum. Does care about signal from its own
computer (behind driver's seat). Did you wire the new plug correctly?
Your motor could be bad, or the computer could be sending bad signals.
Unless your vacuum leak is tugging on the air sensor plate, should
DECREASE idle speed. Make sure your manifold screws are snugged down
and the throttle plates aren't cracked open (didn't forget to reset
them after fixing the idle motor?).
FWIW: automatic idle speed system is nice, but not mandatory. Mine has
been twitchy since I've owned the car. Motor must have originally been
sticking closed because engine would not run without adding air
through manifold screws. Now appears stuck open because even with
manifold screws closed idles at 3000 rpm. I aint' studyin' it -- motor
has been unplugged, air passages blocked off, and I'm idling happy @
900 rpm using screws. Replacement idle motor is $275.00. Replacement
idle computer is $275.00. Manifold screws are already paid for, just
sitting there waiting to be turned. Is a bit old fashioned, but much
cheaper and probably less troublesome in the long run. When summer
comes I'll bump up closer to 1,500 to accomodate A/C compressor.
You really need to find and fix your vacuum leak. Shouldn't be too
difficult -- these little cars don't have much of a vacuum system. But
remember: leak could also be at manifold itself (don't overlook the U
pipes -- didn't you just replace those gaskets? You've also got O
rings where the pipes meet the upper air assembly) or under the fuel
distributor. If you can't hear it hissing, use a can of carburetor
cleaner (with a straw for precise spray) to test every possible
source. Engine will rev up briefly when the carb cleaner hit it.
Vacuum also runs to dash to operate ductwork -- plug that line in the
engine compartment for easier diagnosis.
Good luck...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm assuming this started because of the cold weather, but lately my car
> won't return to idle right away. It will drop down to 1,450 RPMs
and just
> sit there. A few jabs at the throttle will get it down again, but
it gets
> rather annoying as I don't like to shut it off if it's still dumping in
> fuel. Could this be part of my pesky vacuum leak that has been the
bane of
> my existence? All of my attempts to lubricate the throttle cable
have been
> ineffective. There's got to be a better way of doing it.
>
> Thanks for all your time!
>
> payne
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 18:50:50 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: which way to turn engine?
Due to the amiguity of which way you are facing, the best thing is to
have somebody hit the starter, see which way the engine turns, and
keep going the same way. Although I do believe that it's clockwise if
you are standing behind the car facing the engine.
Dave S
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey all,
> i am ready to adjust my valves. but i have to know which direction
to turn
> the crankshaft in!! clockwise or counter clockwise??
> Andy
> Soma576@xxxx
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 13:45:40 -0800 (PST)
From: George DeLorean <phantomoftheopera_gk@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1697 update and pics
James,
hello. Look, this may actually be my first post
in this club, but I have a few things to say. First,
I would recommend not parting out 1697 just yet. Does
the damage look severe? Yes! But, the fiberglass can
be repaired to original condition. That is your
biggest problem right there, get the underbody
straight, and then work on the rest. I have studied
the DeLorean car for two years straight, thinking out
various ways to fix it.
There are places out there that do make
fiberglass repairer, and actually repair fiberglass.
Pickup truck shells are made out of that stuff, so one
of those companies may help give you a boost in
contacting somebody who could actually repair it.
You would just have to take off what is damaged, and
then fix the underbody. But, who knows, even that may
not be fiesable. However, there is a DeLorean website
that sells whole and partial fiberglass underbodies.
You may want to give them a try. I think it is
dmc12.com, or dmc-12.com. If it isn't one, it is the
other. Then, just shift the undamaged parts, vin
plates, etc. over to the other underbody, and buy new
what needs to be replaced. Just my thoughts, take
them as you will.
Best of luck,
George DeLorean
P.S. Yes, that is my real last name, but I am not
related to J.Z.D. ~_^
=====
Eighty eight miles per hour!!!
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2002 19:30:20 -0500
From: "Dennis Alberts" <DBJCFam@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Repairs
I recently had numerous rapairs and updated done to my '82 Delorean. I sent the car to Bauerle Automotive in Radnor Ohio. Not only did Dave do a wonderful job, but he was a pleasure to deal with. I would reccommend Dave to anyone in need of repairs.
Dennis
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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