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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Re: Door Alignment
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Alternator blues
From: "crawford2112" <tim_crawford@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: cylinder numbers (was: Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation)
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Window felt trim
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
From: "stupadazzo2002" <mopar2me@xxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re:VIN 17000
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Zilla products (each product is different)
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Applying Thin Grey Side Stripe (dealer option)
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
11. Buying my first delorean
From: "ask" <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Zilla's
From: "Hank Eskin" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Previous owner of VIN 5030
From: JVC220@xxxxxxx
16. WD-40 as a lubricant
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Re: Door Alignment
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
18. Overheating problem?
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
20. Re: Alternator blues
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
22. GOOD NEWS UPDATE! Was: Only running on five cylinders
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
23. coolant leak under water pump
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Buying my first delorean - Fuel pickup system
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Attn: Payne - Fuel pump relay
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 07:58:26 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Door Alignment
>WD-40 is not a lubricant
According to Jim and Tim - the Duct Tape Guys:
"If it isn't stuck and should be, use duct tape."
"If it is stuck and shouldn't be, use WD-40."
I found it on the Internet, so it must be true!
http://www.octanecreative.com/WD40/
Gary
www.IN2TIME.com
Another example of "I found it on the Internet..."
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 17:25:44 -0000
From: "crawford2112" <tim_crawford@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Alternator blues
I purchased an Alternator one year ago and it is only producing 11.8
volts. I got stranded when the battery gave way (by the way new
battery with 900 CCA). Is this an alternator problem or could this
be something else? I am thinking that the alternator needs to put
out 13plus volts to recharge the battery.
Also, my rear view mirror fell off after 21 years of service. It
appears to have industrial double stick tape. Does any one know
where to get this type of tape.
How hard is it to get the drivers side window back on track. The
window will also completely close but gets stuck with about 1/3 of an
inch to go. Not to the top, but the flat rear side toward the rear of
the window casing.
Tim Crawford
Vin 3154
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:18:49 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cylinder numbers (was: Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation)
On Wed, 9 Oct 2002 19:50:15 -0700, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> We hooked them up based on the numbers on the cap.
> Cylinders 1 2 and 3 are on the left bank (right of car)
> and 4 5 and six are on the right bank (left of car). Is this correct?
I believe it is... The #1 cilinder is the one directly behind
the passenger seat, near the coil cover.
I allmost fell for that one too when I did mine and the picture in
the manual shows the engine in its "normal" position: frontengined...
If you take good notice of the flywheel and pulleys you should be allright.
Are you sure the cap is the right one and positioned right?
If yopu didn't get the cap from a DeLorean vendor it might be a cap
for another type of the PRV-6. Like odd-firing vs. even-firing...
Hope this helps,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 19:56:13 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation
#1: Ensure distributor cap isn't 180 degrees backwards. Anybody
remember if they are keyed?
#2: Did you rotate distributor (timing)? Even if it's WAY off, you
should be able to correct spinning engine w/ starter motor.
#3: Are you SURE you're getting spark? Verify with a timing light. You
need 10v into the coil to get High Tension (you can use the timing
light on your coil lead as well as individual plugs).
#4: Did you use up all the gas in the accumulator? Unless you've
modified, fuel pump isn't energized until engine is running. Try
jumping the fuel pump relay.
Keep us updated...
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Okay, I want to thank everybody who has helped me with my little tune up
> adventure I've undertaken. I couldn't have gotten this far without you!
>
> Now I have a new problem that has proven most frustrating (I'll
spare you
> what I really call it, due to my remaining sense of decency). The car
> simply won't run at all now
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 13:42:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Window felt trim
Tom,
It was I that stumbled upon the 10 dollar window felt fix. I pulled mine
off of a junked car in a yard. Since posting the fix, I heard from others
that some yards require you to buy the entire door if you want the felt.
So I went out and nabbed a couple more sets. Let me know if you want one.
I haven't had any problems since installing mine.
-Christian
On Wed, 9 Oct 2002, Watkins Family wrote:
> Does anyone know where to get this stuff? I saw the $10.00 fix on a
> site but I was wondering if anyone sells just the trim felt? Does the
> $10.00 fix put too much pressure on the glass? Also, are these new Ford
> pieces or are they used?
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 16:11:37 -0000
From: "stupadazzo2002" <mopar2me@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
(This may be a re-post but I can't remember any replies)
Are there any consequenses of spraying carb cleaner inside the top of
the fuel injection system (without air cleaner)with the engine
running?
I noticed for the first time today I have black build-up (which has
only recently started) inside the intake and on the diaphragm
entering the system. I warmed the engine and sprayed a spray-style
carb cleaner into the top while running the engine around 2000 RPM.
It belches a horribly poisonous smelling cloud when you do this.
Will this spray-style carb cleaner harm the engine, exhaust,
catalytic converter, or especially the O2 sensor? I just had a new O2
sensor installed and I don't want to ruin it. Anyone? Is there a
different recommendation? Or can I do this safely?
Chris
#3876
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 15:59:18 -0400
From: "Palatinus, Joe" <jopalatinus@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re:VIN 17000
I have seen at least 4 other vehicles with 17000 VIns that do not have
the cool exhaust tips, and I have talked to 2 of these people who insist
that it is stock. The 17000 cars were initially intended to all go to
Canada, however I do not believe that that was the case, as several of
the cars here in the US are 17000 and have mph speedos, like my second
delorean. I don't believe that all 17000 went to Canada, nor do I
believe that they all came with special exhaust tips.
Joe Palatinus
VIN 17167 August 82
6808
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 15:08:13 -0000
From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Zilla products (each product is different)
Zilla Products are very good, but let's not generalize all of them.
Each one is unique and one product's performance does not imply the
performance or reliability of another product or the entire line.
My overall experience with the Zilla products has been very positive.
While I agree that Lockzilla is a very good product, with a very good
track record (I have owned several Deloreans with Lockzilla) and I
agree that it has a very low failure, but I would not extend the same
praise to the Tankzilla. Athough I think that the Tankzilla is also
a good product (I have owned several Deloreans with Tankzilla), both
my experience and other Delorean owners with the Tankzilla is that
the performance and failure rate is not the same as with Lockzilla.
Lockzillas just seem to have a better track record than Tankzillas.
Keep in mind that installation, operation and use (or non-use) of
your Delorean will also affect the performance of any product, I do
not want current or new Delorean owners to get only the Pro or Con
view of the Zilla product line or any Delorean parts for that matter.
Bob does excellent work and always stands by his product, which is
the reason to buy a Zilla product. Although I recently purchased
another Delorean with a new Tankzilla (less than a year old) and it
does not appear to be functioning as designed, I'm sure I will be
able to correct the problem with Bob's assistance, as soon as I get
time to work on it. There are several other Delorean owners that
have had problems with their Tankzillas as well, but the key here is
that they have always had the unit replaced, repaired or adjusted
with Bob's assistance. Bob's products are not all bullet-proof, but
he does stand behind them 100%, which is very rare in any industry.
I always look forward to seeing what Bob is dabbling in next.
(anxiously but patiently waiting for door launchers for my Lockzilla)
Later,
Rich W.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "turbodmc3113" <turbodmc@xxxx> wrote:
> I saw the Zila thread and wanted to make a few comments.
>
> snip <
>
> As far as Bob and the Zila products go. Most people have no idea of
> the painstaking efforts that have gone into the Zilla Products. The
> time, money, effort and aggravation to make them the best products
of
> their kind. Not only does it have to pass Bob's standards but
> then they need to pass Rob Gradys requirements also. Some of the
> products have had years of design and prototyping before they get
> released tothe DeLorean world to be sold. Bob Zilla builds parts
that
> are second to none. If people knew the work Bob put into bringing
> only the best products possible (and standing behind every product
he
> ever sold BTW). I think most people would agree Bob has the right to
> feel a little defensive about a thread that infers (intentionally or
> by accident) that any of the Zilla products are not the top quality
in
> every way.
>
> If the sounds like a plug for Bob or the Zilla products my apologies
> I just stated the facts, as I know them.
>
> WHAT I WILL PLUG IS THE 3RD ANNUAL DELOREAN FALL FOLIAGE TOUR!
> ITS IN LESS THEN TWO WEEKS OCT 19TH AND 20TH
>
> Please e-mail me if you are planing to attend or need more
> information turbodmc@xxxx
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike D.
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 17:56:48 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation
It sounds like the wires are at least going the right way. Make sure
they are firmly installed into the distributer cap and "snapped" onto
the spark plugs. You should feel the ignition wires "pop" onto the
plug when installed all the way on. I think your problem is the
distributer. Either you don't have the rotor in correctly or the cap
is not snapped on right. Remove the cap and MAKE SURE THE BUMP INSIDE
THE ROTOR IS ALIGNED WITH THE NOTCH IN THE DISTRIBUTER SHAFT. When
reinstalling the cap make sure it too is lined up with the bump on the
cap and the notch in the casting and that the cap is COMPLETLY seated
on the distributer. If these parts were not assembled correctly and
you tried to start the motor you could have damaged them so when they
are apart inspect for broken pieces or cracks. Another thing you could
try is to pull a spark plug, stick it in a wire, lay it on the engine
and when cranking it should have a nice, fat, blue spark. This will at
least prove out the wires and coil. It will not tell you if the rotor
is incorrectly positioned inside the distributer.
David teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Payne" <bpayne@xxxx> wrote:
> Okay, I want to thank everybody who has helped me with my little
tune up
> adventure I've undertaken. I couldn't have gotten this far without
you!
>
> Now I have a new problem that has proven most frustrating (I'll
spare you
> what I really call it, due to my remaining sense of decency). The
car
> simply won't run at all now. Even when it was running on five
cylinders, it
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Message: 10
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 23:55:20 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Applying Thin Grey Side Stripe (dealer option)
As I am considering this as a winter-project on my car
(amongst a LOT of other work), I'd like to know if anyone
on the list has ever applied the thin grey side stripe
on their DeLorean themselves...
They are still available from DMC Texas for about $75,-
but probably NOS, so I'm wondering if they will still
stick to the SS as they should.
And as I might also rebrush my car this winter,
would it be best to do this befor or after applying?
Before would risk scratching the stripe, after could
give trouble applying on the brushed surface.
I'm also looking for some clear pictures of this stripe;
all I have now is an unclear scan from a brochure with
dealer options and someone in our club has a PIECE (only
the logo under the vents) on his car.
I like the idea of the stripe, but would like to see one
a bit clearer before deciding to buy a set.
Another possibility I have is making my own custom set,
but styled in the original way; I have the means and
experience to do this, but would need something to work
from, so any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
------------------------------
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:59:00 -0000
From: "ask" <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Buying my first delorean
I am ready to take the big jump and buy my first delorean.I want to
hear all the positive and negative things about them.I have
considered buying a project car instead of a running one since I am
a mechanic,but I would like to know if its really worth it and how
long it takes to get parts and stuff.I would like to know exactly
what stuff I am going to need to keep this thing running
spares/special tools etc.I plan to probably drive it about quite a
bit since I cant stand seeing cars sitting around.How well do
deloreans do on long trips? I seem to see people posting about
overheating problems fairly often,whats up with that? is it a chronic
ongoing thing?Are there areas on the vehicle that need special
attention and supervision besides the normal car stuff?How long do
the door pistons last?I have a million questions and I appreciate all
answers.:)Anyone know of companies that finance deloreans?I dont
think I can afford to shell out 20,000 dollars right off so any
suggestions appreciated.If you happen to have a delorean project car
for sale drop me a line.Anyone can email me hecklerkochgmbh@xxxxxxxxx
or catch me on yahoo messenger with that handle. thanks guys
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 18:35:19 -0400
From: "Hank Eskin" <henry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Zilla's
I'd like to make a final few brief comments concerning my Lockzilla thread.
First, As I stated in my original post, I was attempting to solve a
problem - I was not bashing any of the Zilla products or any of Bob's work.
Second, while I'm sure the Zilla products have stood the test of time, I
assert that my particular situation may not have been tested before. For
people that came late to this thread, my battery is a Sears Diehard
"Security" battery has an auto-shut off feature that kicks in somewhere
between 10 and 11 volts (in order to preserve enough starting power.)
This battery does not have to be drained very much for it to shut itself
off. We also know that LockZilla draws 30mA in my case. IT IS ENTIRELY
POSSIBLE that both the battery and Lockzilla are both fully functional and
operating normally, but when they are used together, this problem arises.
When my LockZilla is not connected, the battery (which *is* fully charged)
does not shut itself off over the same time period. Therefore, when
LockZilla is used with this battery, it causes a problem... hence my
original post.. i.e. >> Problem with Lockzilla <<.
Third, my original post was just trying to find out if anyone else had
experienced similar problems - little did I think it would result in so much
flack. It was an honest question based on a REAL PROBLEM resulting from the
use of LockZilla that does not exist when LockZilla is removed from the
equation. Was is it wrong to use the process of elimination to debug the
system, and then simply query the list with the result? How else was I
supposed to learn if my unit is functional, or perhaps, there was a one in
ten billion chance that I have a Lockzilla unit that draws too much current?
Gee, I've heard of electronics failing before, built by Bob Zilla or not -
it happens.
If the end result is that I have to live with this problem, then fine, at
least I know the answer and can work around it.
Finally, I find it hard to believe that people on this list can fault me for
attempting to fully research and solve the problem first. Or should I just
assume that all electronic devices never fail and everything should always
work perfectly together? I can now see why some people have chosen to
leave the DML altogether. Geeze.
-Hank
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 15:55:55 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Only running on five cylinders, turning into desperation
Thank you all for writing back so quickly! I'm baffled and desperate!
> #1: Ensure distributor cap isn't 180 degrees backwards. Anybody
> remember if they are keyed?
The distributor cap can only go on one way, as there is a little notch on
the distributor housing. It is in the same position as the one we took off
>
> #2: Did you rotate distributor (timing)? Even if it's WAY off, you
> should be able to correct spinning engine w/ starter motor.
I never moved the distributor at all, I just pulled the rotor off and
snapped the new one on. They can only go on one way, right?
>
> #3: Are you SURE you're getting spark? Verify with a timing light. You
> need 10v into the coil to get High Tension (you can use the timing
> light on your coil lead as well as individual plugs).
We haven't used a timing light, but I had someone check at the plug wire and
he said there was spark. We can smell fuel, but I'm not sure if this proves
anything. Just a note, this car is my daily driver so it always has fresh
oil and fuel. It was running perfectly and started every time without
hesitation until the day my problem started. Somehow I managed to turn a
five cylinder running car into a car that doesn't run at all. I sure am
talented.
>
> #4: Did you use up all the gas in the accumulator? Unless you've
> modified, fuel pump isn't energized until engine is running. Try
> jumping the fuel pump relay.
I hear the fuel pump prime itself when I turn the key to the second
position. I tried cranking the engine off and on for nearly an hour. It
just doesn't respond. It doesn't even try. I just hear the starter motor
spinning and the engine kind of "kicks" on every revolution.
Keep in mind that I'm very new at this, but how exactly do I jump the fuel
pump relay? Where exactly is it and do I have to remove it and insert
something else? I'm trying to learn everything I can.
Well, I'm going to go and take a look at things again in daylight. Maybe I
should brush up on all my expletives and their proper usage. It seemed to
work for my dad.
Thank you all so much!
payne
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Message: 14
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 23:04:06 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
You're spraying through the air intake. Fuel injection is sealed (only
way to get cleaner in there is through gas tank).
Weak knee'd deposits (oil, soot, etc) can be removed this way. True
carbon buildup (if you've got any) is basically welded to the pistons.
One way to identify carbon buildup is if engine diesels after car
turned off (red hot deposits continue ignition). You can also identify
if compression HIGHER than factory specs. Most of your cloud was
simply burned carb cleaner, but it surely took some impurities with
it. In fact I call the procedure "making smoke" -- usually a bottle of
injector cleaner poured directly down the throat of a carb -- and my
vehicles ALWAYS run better afterwards.
Unless your air filter is pitiful, soot on the air sensor plate is
coming back from the valve cover. Make sure your engine is combusting
OK: fuel mixture not too rich, good hot spark, timed OK, etc.
Someone w/ emissions will have to answer questions re: O2 sensor and
catalytic converter (I'm not using my O2 sensor if anyone wants --
14,000 miles).
Cleaners through the fuel system are reported possible to encrustate
the spark plugs, but I've never seen it.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "stupadazzo2002" <mopar2me@xxxx> wrote:
> (This may be a re-post but I can't remember any replies)
>
> Are there any consequenses of spraying carb cleaner inside the top of
> the fuel injection system (without air cleaner)with the engine
> running?
>
> I noticed for the first time today I have black build-up (which has
> only recently started) inside the intake and on the diaphragm
> entering the system. I warmed the engine and sprayed a spray-style
> carb cleaner into the top while running the engine around 2000 RPM.
> It belches a horribly poisonous smelling cloud when you do this.
>
> Will this spray-style carb cleaner harm the engine, exhaust,
> catalytic converter, or especially the O2 sensor? I just had a new O2
> sensor installed and I don't want to ruin it. Anyone? Is there a
> different recommendation? Or can I do this safely?
>
> Chris
> #3876
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Message: 15
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 19:20:02 EDT
From: JVC220@xxxxxxx
Subject: Previous owner of VIN 5030
Does anybody know the previous owner of VIN 5030? I am looking at buying
this car and would like to find out as much info about it as I can. It is
currently located in Clearwater, FL and I was told that it was a local trade
(The place sells speacialty and antique cars). Any info on the car would be
greatly appreciated.
Adam
#17086
?#5030?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 23:23:51 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: WD-40 as a lubricant
WD-40 isn't viscous enough to be used as a serious lubricant. Supposed
to work OK to penetrate stuck pieces (note: LACK of viscosity) but
IMHO better penetrating products are available. If you try to depend
on any lightweight product as a lubricant (for anything other than
sewing machines or model trains) you'll find neverending applications
necessary. Even then you're probably experiencing excellerated wear.
Is tempting due to easy propellant application, but spray greases are
available. Best rule: if your grease gun will reach, use a proper
lubricant.
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 18:47:01 -0500
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Door Alignment
also further down the page it says it is a water displacer and thats where the letters
"WD" come from. for a squeaky door hinge i would use a lubricant that wont wash away
like WD-40, i would use white lithium spray grease. it is water proof and will not wash
off and you will get years of use compared to WD-40.
mark
IN2TIME wrote:
> >WD-40 is not a lubricant
>
> According to Jim and Tim - the Duct Tape Guys:
> "If it isn't stuck and should be, use duct tape."
> "If it is stuck and shouldn't be, use WD-40."
>
> I found it on the Internet, so it must be true!
> http://www.octanecreative.com/WD40/
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Message: 18
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 00:44:57 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Overheating problem?
I'm currently having a new problem with my car overheating, but not really. Let
me explain...
The temp needle will move as normal, but will not go past 220 degrees.
Today for example, I was driving home with the A/C on. Cold air was blowing,
and the needle was staying right on the 1st white line. Yet I seems to still have
the coolant bottle slowly boiling over. I say slowly, because it isn't the same as
when I've lost the alternator belt. When that's happened, steam has blow up,
and out of the engine cover. In this case, coolant has been dripping out of the
hose, and has been foaming up around the radiator cap.
Another odd thing was this. I went to lunch today, and the drip occured. When
I left work about 4 hours later, the motor was cool to the touch. But, when I
opened the overflow tank, the pressure inside of the system was pretty strong.
It took about 2 seconds or so to stop the hissing, and the coolant inside had
air bubbling up thru it.
Now I know that I should perform a pressure test on the system as a general
rule, although the system seemed to keep the pressure up pretty well on it's
own. But I do have a couple of questions/concerns as to what the problem
here could be:
1. Defective Radiator Cap.
2. Sytem has too much fluid inside preventing expansion (I did top the system
off last week, although it was because this problem occured first).
3. Possible Head Gasket leak allowing exhaust gasses into the system
allowing it to be pressurized?
I also though about a possible sticking thermostat, but since the temp was
stable, I figured I could rule that out.
Any input on this subject would be greatly appriciated. To give out a little back
ground info, the water pump is over 2 years old, and the radiator cap is almost
2. I also have the stainless bottle, and the overheat protector.
Thanks in advance!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 20:59:20 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
Chris, You will reach only a small part of the air intake system by spraying
in the air flow meter. Naturally the best way is to remove the W or horn pipe
on front and clean it inside and clean the throttle body butterflies so they
will seat properly, But the best way is to take it apart by sections and
clean it. No harm will come by using the spray's for that purpose but you
would need to relubricate several parts in the system because the spray will
take away the oil that is there. When you push down in the air intake plate
there are three pivot points that will loose the oil or lubricate that is in
there now. That would be the main problem I would see.
John Hervey
specialTauto.com
<< Are there any consequenses of spraying carb cleaner inside the top of
the fuel injection system (without air cleaner)with the engine
running?
I noticed for the first time today I have black build-up (which has
only recently started) inside the intake and on the diaphragm
entering the system. I warmed the engine and sprayed a spray-style
carb cleaner into the top while running the engine around 2000 RPM.
It belches a horribly poisonous smelling cloud when you do this.
Will this spray-style carb cleaner harm the engine, exhaust,
catalytic converter, or especially the O2 sensor? I just had a new O2
sensor installed and I don't want to ruin it. Anyone? Is there a
different recommendation? Or can I do this safely?
Chris
#3876
>>
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Message: 20
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:06:30 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Alternator blues
Tim, Before you feel to bad about the alternator. Be sure the dash light
battery bulb is working. If it isn't the alternator will not excite the
regulator. Be sure to replace it with a #161 bulb only. It has the right
resistance. Make sure the wires are plugged in good and all is well. Any
charging to the battery has to be above battery voltage which is 12.66. If
you alternator isn't putting out that, then the battery will run down.
Keep in mind if you have the original alternator, it's old.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
Alternators are in stock
<< I purchased an Alternator one year ago and it is only producing 11.8
volts. I got stranded when the battery gave way (by the way new
battery with 900 CCA). Is this an alternator problem or could this
be something else? I am thinking that the alternator needs to put
out 13plus volts to recharge the battery.
Also, my rear view mirror fell off after 21 years of service. It
appears to have industrial double stick tape. Does any one know
where to get this type of tape.
How hard is it to get the drivers side window back on track. The
window will also completely close but gets stuck with about 1/3 of an
inch to go. Not to the top, but the flat rear side toward the rear of
the window casing.
Tim Crawford
Vin 3154
>>
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Message: 21
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 01:13:20 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Spray-type carb cleaner into inection system Q
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "stupadazzo2002" <mopar2me@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Will this spray-style carb cleaner harm the engine, exhaust,
> catalytic converter, or especially the O2 sensor? I just had a new O2
> sensor installed and I don't want to ruin it. Anyone? Is there a
> different recommendation? Or can I do this safely?
>
> Chris
> #3876
Does the can say that it is safe for catalytic convertors and Oxygen sensors?
Most chemical cleaners that are will specificly state so on their labels
I had the same problem on my car, although I don't know if this will cure your
problem. After finding a disconnected hose on the oil breather cap, tightened
the hose clamps on all of the breather hoses. Clean ever since.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 22
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 19:22:52 -0700
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: GOOD NEWS UPDATE! Was: Only running on five cylinders
I've spent the last couple of hours going through everything again, and I
decided to just tear everything apart and start over. I took everything
apart down to the rotor, and slowly put it all together again. It was much
easier the second time, although it's not something I want to repeat anytime
soon. Once I was sure everything was secure, I turned the key. She
sputtered a little bit and protested, but finally came to life. I let it
idle a little bit, but she was running quite rough so I turned it off. I
checked all my hose connections again and a little later decided to start it
up. It fired up almost immediately this time, but still ran rough. There
was a loud hissing coming from the intake, and I found it was a vacuum leak
at the "w" pipe where the gasket had separated. I could hold my finger over
the edge and it would stop and smooth out a little. I am currently using
silicone sealant until I can order a proper gasket. I'll wait a little
while to see if it holds.
I'm just so happy that It's running again. I'm still not sure what was
preventing it from running, it seems to defy logic. It had to be something
small that I didn't get a good connection on. I can't thank the people on
this list enough for taking the time to help me! I love to see the kind of
closeness in this community that you have demonstrated. It just makes me
more proud to own this beautiful car.
In a way, it was like my car was trying to tell me something by running
poorly. When I moved the air meter/fuel distributor assembly, I found that
the coolant hose had pooched out and was starting to leak. If I had driven
anymore, I probably would have lost a lot more coolant. Even though I
didn't have much fun with the tune up, I'm glad this wasn't overlooked any
longer. I found a few other little things that need fixing, but nothing
that is too pressing of a matter. At least my car loves me again. First
she gets me out of jury duty, and now this. It was just a tough learning
experience along the way.
Thank you all so much!
payne
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Message: 23
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 21:30:11 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: coolant leak under water pump
I seem to be leaking some coolant under/behind the water pump.
I've checked the hose-clamps (even removing the Y or M air intake to get
access) , and they all seem to be ok.
The pump was replaced in February. Any suggestions?
#4687
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Message: 24
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 02:31:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Buying my first delorean - Fuel pickup system
You're going to get 100,000 replies to this one, so I'll be brief...
Based on my only unhappy experience (it WAS a big'un):
Replace EVERYTHING from the fuel filter forward.
-Fuel filter: no brainer
-Fuel accumulator: warm engine won't restart without a strong one (or
gymnastics to compensate)
-Fuel pump: if you can afford a D, you can afford a new pump
-Fuel pump boot: starting to get into the crux here -- things in the
tank deteriorate with age & exposure to that environment. An old boot
WILL crumble pieces into your fuel. I guarantee it. Plus, an old boot
probably won't protect against any water that finds its way in there
(remember: the windshield trough drains right above it)
-Fuel pump boot bracket: is the old one rusty or pitiful?
-Fuel pump boot cover: personally, I don't like them, but unless
you've isolated rain water you'd better not go without
-Fuel tank baffle: ah, the real meat & potatoes. If mine was
representative, the protective screens on a factory original are
BRITTLE. What do you suppose would happen if a crumbled piece of a
deteriorated boot were to get sucked up against them? If you weren't
buying a new fuel pump before...
It's a significant initial outlay, but one I wish I'd made then.
Re: DeLoreans on long trips -- after I install a cruise control, you
guys in California may get to see #5939 in person.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "ask" <hecklerkochgmbh@xxxx> wrote:
> I am ready to take the big jump and buy my first delorean.I want to
> hear all the positive and negative things about them.I have
> considered buying a project car instead of a running one since I am
> a mechanic,but I would like to know if its really worth it and how
> long it takes to get parts and stuff.I would like to know exactly
> what stuff I am going to need to keep this thing running
> spares/special tools etc.I plan to probably drive it about quite a
> bit since I cant stand seeing cars sitting around.How well do
> deloreans do on long trips? I seem to see people posting about
> overheating problems fairly often,whats up with that? is it a chronic
> ongoing thing?Are there areas on the vehicle that need special
> attention and supervision besides the normal car stuff?How long do
> the door pistons last?I have a million questions and I appreciate all
> answers.:)Anyone know of companies that finance deloreans?I dont
> think I can afford to shell out 20,000 dollars right off so any
> suggestions appreciated.If you happen to have a delorean project car
> for sale drop me a line.Anyone can email me hecklerkochgmbh@xxxx
> or catch me on yahoo messenger with that handle. thanks guys
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Message: 25
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 03:03:25 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Attn: Payne - Fuel pump relay
Fuel pump relay is rear bank, fourth from end (#106 on the wiring
diagram).
You want to jump brown to yellow/red.
When my current fuel accumulator finally ages out, will probably make
this change permanent...
Bill Robertson
#5939
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