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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 18 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: 2 Questions over here :D
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: Has anybody let them know about their screw-up?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. Re: 2 Questions over here :D
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
4. Foot Pedals
From: "Classified" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
5. storage
From: "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
8. Momo Hub for our cars
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: 2 Questions over here :D
From: "Sean" <pugrambo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Vortec 4.3 Engine for sale for swap
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: storage
From: "Classified" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Re: 2 Questions over here :D
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Foot Pedals
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Momo Hub for our cars
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: angle drive removal question
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche@xxxxxxx>
17. Re: 2 Questions over here :D
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Foot Pedals
From: "Classified" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 21:23:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Andrew <aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 2 Questions over here :D
On Fri, 13 Sep 2002, Vin 5386 wrote:
> Okay first off, Has anyone had success running synthetic oil in the PRV?
> Not sure how the engine was designed if it could handel it.
I run Amsoil 10w30 synthetic in mine, with no problems. There's no reason
I know of you shouldn't run synthetic. I use synthetic in all my cars. I
think it's worth the extra expense.
Historically, synthetic oil has been known for causing tiny (or even
unnorticeable) oil leaks to get much worse, because of its uniform
molecular structure (makes a lot easier to wick through small holes), but
all modern synthetics have additives that prevent this problem.
-andrew
#4115
Houston TX
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2002 23:03:04 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Has anybody let them know about their screw-up?
Group, I believe the LK has to do with the License of the car. In the back of
the 2001 Sunstar catalog they list all the licenses and the owners of the
licenses, the DeLorean isn't listed. It also has the LK in the catalog with
the picture. The 2002 catalog shows the DeLorean and talkes about the
American Express version but the LK isn't there.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< Concerning the DeLorean LK on the box, it could be
concieved "DeLorean UK." But has anybody thought of DeLorean LD ?
I may be way out on left feild on this one, but didnt the parrent
company of DeLorean, or a subsiderary use to be DeLorean LD? Anyway,
I do think there is a mistake on the box, and GOOD EYE!!
>>
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 05:42:28 -0000
From: "fivetwofive" <CBL302@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 2 Questions over here :D
Todd,
The only thing I could come up with is that it was a "frame" serial
number,most likely used by the frame maker,so that they could
idendify the frames,for shipping/inventory/or,if there should have
been a problem,that is most likely the reason the plate is only
tacked on.
Claude
000570
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi, How is everyones Friday the 13th going? I have two
> questions for the group today, neither one is related
> but what the heck.
>
> Okay first off, Has anyone had success running
> synthetic oil in the PRV? Not sure how the engine was
> designed if it could handel it.
>
> Second question which has nothing to do with the first
> one, lol. With my engine now removed (working on the
> trans this weekend) I have discovered a plate with an
> impressed number welded to my frame on the driver
> side. it resides on the rear frame in the engine
> compartment. Is this a Vin number or just a frame
> idenification code? has anyone else discovered this
> plate and scratch there head in wonder? I've been
> scratching my head alot this week. hehe.
>
> Thanks again guys for the great help with my engine.
> Couldn't of done it without this great group!
>
> Todd
> Vin 5386
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! News - Today's headlines
> http://news.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 08:29:56 -0000
From: "Classified" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Foot Pedals
I just wanted to drop a line and tell everyone that I got tired of
the old normal looking foot pedals and I did an extensive research
into upgrading these. What I came up with is MOMO Grand Prix brushed
aluminum pedals. I ordered them on the internet and I even seen some
on E-Bay too, few days later I got em ! WOW! Came in a very
attractive box, plush red insert...anyways, I got to work and about
an hour later they were in. I couldnt believe how well they fit and
mostly how good they looked! I was impressed. In my personal opinion
it was worth spending the $75 or so on the new pedals. If you want to
see the finished job go to the PHOTOS and look up MOMO pedals. Now Im
looking at the MOMO sphere gear knobs and MOMO steering wheels. That
should be awesome! As soon as I get it done I will post more pics for
you to see...
Thnx,
Ski VIN 4649
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 08:49:25 -0000
From: "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: storage
I would like everyones opinion on how I should store my car this
winter. Should I put it on blocks to get the weight off of the
suspension, or half way up or what? What else should I do beside
unhooking the battery and putting fuel stabilizer in?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 02:50:43 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
I'll take that as not very often! lol.
Thank you
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick Ryan" <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
> With continuos ownership for 20 years (next week)
> spread over two DeLoreans and with accumulated mileage
> of 175,000 miles, I have never replaced an otterstat.
>
> Now I'm curious, is that just the luck of the Irish?
>
> Dick Ryan
>
> --- The Atkinson Family <mikeatk@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Just curious, how often should the otterstadt switch
> > be replaced.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 02:58:24 -0700
From: "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
Thanks David,
I was just considering a replacement schedule for all or some of the parts I
replaced starting about four years ago when my wife and I bought our
DeLorean. I remember the crud on the otterstadt switch when first replaced
so was curious how long it took to build up this stuff again. BTW, my no
start problem after sitting for three or four days seems to have resolved
itself ?
Thanks for your help
Mike Atkinson
vin 16232
----- Original Message -----
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2002 7:44 AM
Subject: [DML] Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
> The origional otterstadt switch seems to go bad sometime before it is
> 20 years old. If it is leaking, origional or the fans don't seem to
> come on soon enough it is time to change it. If installing a Fanzilla
> it is recommended it be changed at the same time. When installing a
> new otterstadt switch remove the seal, clean with a little
> scotch-brite and put the seal and switch in with NO SEALER. Make sure
> the clip is still there or at least use a strap-tie to hold the switch
> in. If you have an early set-up with the switch on top of the pipe
> modify the pipe and get the hoses to work like the later version so
> there is no air bubble trapped under the switch.
> If the switch is coated with crud you have much bigger problems since
> the crud is probably all throughout your cooling system. Drain, flush
> and refill with fresh anti-freeze if it is over 2 years old. If you
> have the origional hoses and seals you have a big job replacing them
> all including the water pump.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxx> wrote:
> > Just curious, how often should the otterstadt switch be replaced.
> > Can the sensor become coated with crude after a few years. I
> > replaced mine about three or four years ago . . .
[moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 08:50:01 -0400
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Momo Hub for our cars
I heard that the steering wheel hub for a 1976 Rover Sd1 will fit out car. But in the Momo hub listing I couldn't find that, only pre 1985 Rover. Do any of you know if this hub will fit our splines?????
Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 13:27:35 -0000
From: "Sean" <pugrambo@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 2 Questions over here :D
Okay i can answer your first question pretty easily
Yes you can run synthetic oil in your PRV without any trouble
I have been running PRV's for a number of years and more often than
not i have run synthetic oil in them with no adverse effects inlike
some engines than can create oil leaks and pump seal failures that i
could name but are not relevant to this forum
regards
pugrambo
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi, How is everyones Friday the 13th going? I have two
> questions for the group today, neither one is related
> but what the heck.
>
> Okay first off, Has anyone had success running
> synthetic oil in the PRV? Not sure how the engine was
> designed if it could handel it.
>
[duplicate quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 12:43:31 -0500
From: "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vortec 4.3 Engine for sale for swap
It looks like I will be converting my car from a Vortec 4.3 TBI to a LS1
motor and my TBI engine will be available if someone is looking for a good
engine to use for a swap. I will include the wiring harness and computer.
The TBI engine that is in my DeLorean now is in very good condition and it
has roughly 54k miles on it (3k coming from the DeLorean) It came out of a
'94 S-10. I'm asking $850 obo for it and I have all the details and wiring
diagrams needed to put it in another DeLorean. The reason for the swap is
only to get more hp out of the car using the LS1 setup and I got a REALLY
great price on the LS1 setup or I wouldn't even think about swapping over.
When I first did the swap, I wanted to go with the LS1 but couldn't find an
engine at a reasonable price. Anyone who is interested in buying the engine
is welcome to come drive my car with it in there to get a feel of the
difference between the 4.3 and the Volvo engine. I promise you won't be
dissapointed. Feel free to email me off list and look at my website for
details on the swap.
Thanks!
Duke
www.geocities.com/at88mph_1999
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 17:23:12 -0000
From: "Classified" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: storage
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxx> wrote:
> I would like everyones opinion on how I should store my car this
> winter. Should I put it on blocks to get the weight off of the
> suspension, or half way up or what? What else should I do beside
> unhooking the battery and putting fuel stabilizer in?
I think the first thing you should do is go thru the archives of this
board, because there is tons of ideas and explanations already.
Ski 4649
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 19:08:44 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <cp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: 2 Questions over here :D
The Frames were made by GKN in the English Midlands, we have not been able
to sort out any useful info regarding the numbers on them.
Chris P DOC UK
-----Original Message-----
From: fivetwofive [mailto:CBL302@xxxxxxx]
Sent: 14 September 2002 06:42
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: 2 Questions over here :D
> Todd,
>
> The only thing I could come up with is that it was a "frame" serial
> number,most likely used by the frame maker,so that they could
> idendify the frames,for shipping/inventory/or,if there should have
> been a problem,that is most likely the reason the plate is only
> tacked on.
>
> Claude
> 000570
>
>> Second question which has nothing to do with the first
>> one, lol. With my engine now removed (working on the
>> trans this weekend) I have discovered a plate with an
>> impressed number welded to my frame on the driver
>> side. it resides on the rear frame in the engine
>> compartment. Is this a Vin number or just a frame
>> idenification code?
[long quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 19:06:48 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Foot Pedals
If you want to see a MOMO gear knob then pop to my site, I've put one on
mine pedals are next.
Cheers
Paul & Mel
#6463
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.salsbury/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Classified" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 9:29 AM
Subject: [DML] Foot Pedals
> I just wanted to drop a line and tell everyone that I got tired of
> the old normal looking foot pedals and I did an extensive research
> into upgrading these. What I came up with is MOMO Grand Prix brushed
> aluminum pedals. I ordered them on the internet and I even seen some
> on E-Bay too, few days later I got em ! WOW! Came in a very
> attractive box, plush red insert...anyways, I got to work and about
> an hour later they were in. I couldnt believe how well they fit and
> mostly how good they looked! I was impressed. In my personal opinion
> it was worth spending the $75 or so on the new pedals. If you want to
> see the finished job go to the PHOTOS and look up MOMO pedals. Now Im
> looking at the MOMO sphere gear knobs and MOMO steering wheels. That
> should be awesome! As soon as I get it done I will post more pics for
> you to see...
>
> Thnx,
> Ski VIN 4649
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 19:10:17 +0100
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Momo Hub for our cars
That makes sense about the Rover Sd1 hub, as I had to put a new ignition
switch and steering lock on my car, Both were from RoverSd1
Cheers
Paul & Mel
#6463
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.salsbury/
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 1:50 PM
Subject: [DML] Momo Hub for our cars
> I heard that the steering wheel hub for a 1976 Rover Sd1 will fit out car.
But in the Momo hub listing I couldn't find that, only pre 1985 Rover. Do
any of you know if this hub will fit our splines?????
>
> Casey at putsch.1@xxxxxxx
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 03:48:17 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Overheating/rising temp since A/C Charge
At the top of my list of replacement would be to change all of the
fluids every 2 years. Most people have no idea the damage caused by
old anti-freeze or old brake fluid. This is esecially important on
cars that are not driven regularly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks David,
>
> I was just considering a replacement schedule for all or some of the
parts I
> replaced starting about four years ago when my wife and I bought our
> DeLorean. I remember the crud on the otterstadt switch when first
replaced
> so was curious how long it took to build up this stuff again. BTW,
my no
> start problem after sitting for three or four days seems to have
resolved
> itself ?
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Mike Atkinson
> vin 16232
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "The Atkinson Family" <mikeatk@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Just curious, how often should the otterstadt switch be
replaced.
> > > Can the sensor become coated with crude after a few years. I
> > > replaced mine about three or four years ago . . .
>
> [moderator snip]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2002 23:40:33 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <delorsche@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: angle drive removal question
After I removed the cable (that goes to the instrument cluster), I used a 1
1/4 box end wrench to loosen the large nut on the back side of the spindle.
To remove the angle drive without damaging it, I had to rotate it into a
position that would allow it to pass in-between two of the spring coils. It
was actually much easier of a job than I had expected. Installation is the
reverse - just make sure that you torque the angle drive nut back properly.
That is pretty much it!
Sean Howley
VIN#2345
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 03:57:33 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 2 Questions over here :D
At the warehouse in Ohio I saw a card file that Leif Montin (former
parts manager for DMC and at that time employed by DMC Houston) said
was the index of vin #'s to frame #'s. At some time in the future
Steve Wynn said they might go through it and create a reference for
frame #'s to vin #'s. He also mentioned that he thought it was
incomplete, probably meaning it wasn't kept up throughout the entire
production run or just doesn't include the 83's. If you really are
interested in following up on this contact James Espey of DMC Houston.
There is no other relationship between the vin # and the frame #. The
frame # was probably created for inventory and tracking purposes
origionaly by the frame manufacturer.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Chris Parnham" <cp@xxxx> wrote:
> The Frames were made by GKN in the English Midlands, we have not
> been able to sort out any useful info regarding the numbers on
> them.
>
> Chris P DOC UK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fivetwofive [mailto:CBL302@m...]
> Sent: 14 September 2002 06:42
> To: dmcnews@xxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: 2 Questions over here :D
>
>
> > Todd,
> >
> > The only thing I could come up with is that it was a "frame"
> > serial number,most likely used by the frame maker . . .
[long quote trimmed by moderator]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 2002 04:42:54 -0000
From: "Classified" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Foot Pedals
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxx> wrote:
> If you want to see a MOMO gear knob then pop to my site, I've put
one on
> mine pedals are next.
>
> Cheers
> Paul & Mel
> #6463
>
> http://homepage.ntlworld.com/paul.salsbury/
>
>
>
Paul,
That gear knob looks awesome! I am currently looking at getting the
MOMO race airleather aluminum knob. It has a part of the brushed ss
look along with the black leather that I will change the whole
interior to, so it will be a perfect fit! Did you have any problems
installing it? MOMO says that you should get a special design knob
for the lift to reverse tranny.
Anyways, to give ya heads up on the MOMO grand prix pedals if you do
decide to get them. the instructions tell you to only use 2 screws
per pedal, but they have 4 holes, 2 of them having blind screws.
Anyways, they supply you with 8 extra screws for different pedal
thickness so I used the small screws also. It is way more solid then
I ever imagined and it looks like it came with the car stock.
Next is the gear know and than I want to change the steering wheel.
The wheel will be the MOMO "D" shape Apache blk leather wheel. Its
basically a little smaller than stock by about 1/2 inch. which is
even better! I still have a problem with locating the hub for that.
If anyone has any info please let me know. DMC12Ski@xxxxxxx
Thnx,
Ski 4649
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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