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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. poor cold accelaration
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Neglectful Owner
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
4. Hoses replaced, still leaking
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
5. Mirror switch broke
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
6. Jumping D
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Eurofest 2002
From: LovDMC12@xxxxxxx
8. Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. SUPER HOT Engine .. Need Some more help please!
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Cat Test Pipe (Was: RE: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement)
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Electric car
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:42:26 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: poor cold accelaration
I know, this has been covered. And I have even checked the Yahoo
back issues, but those were of no help to me. So, please bare with
me. Plus its been a while since I've had an actual "technical"
question.
Sometimes when I start the D it doesn't like to accelerate very
well. It wants to puck out on me. Once warm, its fine. Also,
sometimes when i start it cold....no problems. Other
times....problems.
Is it the Cold Start Valve?
Thanks for humoring my common question.
Erik
04512
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Message: 2
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:44:48 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.
First of all leave the loose plugs alone. They are used in the
automatic transmission and since you have a 5-speed they are not used.
Does the car have poor acceleration-performance all the time or only
when cold? Do you hear the frequency valve buzzing loudly on the right
right side valve cover? Does the mode switch hiss and do you have
other vacuum leaks? Maybe you caught a load of bad gas. All of these
things will affect the performance of the car. If it only happens when
cold then the control pressure regulater could be bad. Check the
electrical plug to make sure it is seated fully and the wires aren't
cut or burned. How long ago did Rob do the full tune-up, they don't
last forever. Could also be a thermal switch, you can't just go
replacing things, it takes a little diagnoses and troubleshooting.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, TheStash <TheStash@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All,
> I was searching the archives for the loss of power condition my D is
> experiencing and I found this: "every morning when i start her for the first time, my delorean is a little hesitant.
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 16:59:44 -0000
From: "thebrave65" <johnnysher1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Neglectful Owner
I am not an owner, but I did find and look at one recently here in
the Phoenix area. The owner appears to have lost all love for his
May '81 vin# 1288. I have many pics of this car in and out. The
interior is TOTALED and apparently he ran it out of gas some time
ago. He then found a gas can in his shop and poured it into the
tank. The gas can contained a 4:1 mix and now his D is dead after he
tried to start it. The reason I posted this is because I love the
Delorean car and it kills me to see something like this happen. What
would be a solution the get this vehicle running again? (Other than
finding a new owner).
Just curious.
Johnny
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 13:26:28 -0400
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Hoses replaced, still leaking
I recently had my hoses replaced and am still having a pretty substantial leak from my left engine coolant hose. It seems to be coming right from where the hose goes into the pipe. Is this just a clamp problem or is something else going on?
Please e-mail privately if you can help. Thank you,
Richard in CA
RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 14:11:50 -0400
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Mirror switch broke
I knew I shouldn't have let my mechanic have my car for two weeks. After getting it back I also noticed that my power mirror switch is broke and only works for the driver's side. (The mirror selector slide switch on the bottom just slides free and does not "stick" into one position like before.) Is there an easy fix for this or am I looking at replacing it?
Any help would be great...thanks again!
Richard
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 20:33:21 +0100
From: "Christopher M. Hawes" <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Jumping D
My DeLorean drives perfectly on a full tank of petrol, however once I get to
half a tank pulling away from rest creates 'fuel starved' behaviour.
Accelerating at slow speeds causes the car to lunge, hic-cup, jerk and in
some cases stall.
Filling the tank causes the problems to disappear until it reaches the half
way mark and then the symptoms re-occur.
Anyone experienced this???
Chris Hawes
#5255
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 15:37:04 EDT
From: LovDMC12@xxxxxxx
Subject: Eurofest 2002
I wanted to invite all of you to the Eurofest 2002 car show to be held
October 19 at the BMW plant in Greer, South Carolina. We need at least 3
DeLorean to have our own class. For more info you can go to their web site at
www.euroautofestival.com
Brian
VIN 1597
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 21:07:22 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.
Is your car getting enough fuel? In old days classic symptoms were
excessive engine heat and a glowing exhaust system (apparently richer
mixture runs cooler than a lean one). A stopped up car will also idle
and rev OK in the driveway but fail under load.
FWIW: I think #5939 just inhaled a piece of mesh from the fuel tank
pickup, and goodness only knows what else (the lower edges of my fuel
pump boot ARE missing...). Was on the road when it happened. Fuel pump
literally yelled "Yow!" Limped home for autopsy. After pulling out
baffle (hey, aren't there supposed to be FOUR pieces of fabric here?),
fired car up with a piece of nylon over the pump. Whatever has me
plugged is now humming very noisily in the accumulator. At least it's
not on the business side of the filter.
Moral of the story: go ahead, follow everyone else (who are driving
down the road, have you noticed) and replace EVERYTHING in the tank.
IMHO this includes the baffle itself (I'm going to try a John Hervey
sepcial -- will post a verdict later). My own mesh was so brittle it
came apart just being handled between finger & thumb. It's expensive,
but so is bus fare.
At least I'm getting a proper fuel pump from the venture.
Bill Robertson
#5939 (driving around the driveway, but that's about it for now...)
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 17:09:33 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: SUPER HOT Engine .. Need Some more help please!
Hey All.
My woes continue here in Toronto .. I am finally able to get the car
running with no problem .. But she idles at 2000 and is HOT
I have tried many things :
-Adjusting the richness .. Enriching and Leaning the mixture .. Does not
help ..
-Adjusting the timing . 13 degrees before TDC on the pulley on the first
marking 105 degrees , and then the rotor on the distributor rests at the
notch after its stabbed in
-an altogether alternate mixture control unit and throttle body from
another DeLorean
I have learned . that when I run the car and disconnect the Oxygen
sensor .. it will idle around 1500 rpm
I hooked it up to a dyno.. and the readings from the exhaust when its
enriched are at 16.30 dilution, then at 12.90 when leaned out
But in both cases the engine is HOT . we measured the temp in both cases
and in both cases the cat ranges from 500 - 800 degress faherhiet
When I reconnect the O2 sensor .. it idles high again and will run at
700 degrees
Could it possibly be a computer problem?
Is there something else I can try?
I am going nuts here .. all your help is GREATLY appreciated as always
You can reply to me directly at ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks again
Kenneth
05541 - with a fever
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 23:43:24 +0200
From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cat Test Pipe (Was: RE: Exhaust manifold gasket replacement)
On 28-08-2002, Scott Mueller wrote:
> You referred to a cat converter bypass pipe.
> We call those a Cat test pipe.
> Is Ed Uding selling these? I would be interested
> in obtaining a test pipe for Off-Road use only.
> I don't want to break any US laws.
Have a look at <http://www.dmc-service.nl/Uk/Index_Uk.htm>
I hae one on my car and it really makes a difference,
both in performance as in tone of the exhaust.
When doing this it is also a good idea to remove
the valve and pipe concerning the heat stove; this valve
restricts airflow by more than 25% of the diameter of
the intake flex tube...
Fortunately we don not have to worry about the legality
of removing the Cat in the Netherlands; our cars are of
an age that makes it legal to remove it...
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 21:19:03 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: poor acceleration... maybe she's just sleepy.. fuel and etc.
Tony, The wire / connector your describing Black, with 2 blue/black should
plug into another 2 conductor connector hanging down from the rear fire wall
that has a red and a black wire. They are tied into the idle circuit and the
vacuum solenoid. Vacuum has to do with the advancing of the ignition
distributor which would have a definite effect on the running of the car. If
this circuit isn't working proper, the advance to the ignition distributor
won't happen and you will have the symptoms your describing.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
<< While looking around I notice a wire that was dangling at the front of the
engine (near the distributor -- I assume that's called the front). It has a
white two prong plug with three wires going to it. A fairly heavy gauge
black wire to one side and two lesser gauge black wires with blue stripes
going to the other. After a long hard look I found what looks like it's mate
tightly wire tied to a bundle of wires at the firewall. Do you think I
should plug them together? They look like they've been apart for some time.
I'm about to check my manuals to see if I can find out what they are all
about.
>>
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 18:29:25 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electric car
I suggest you simply ask this gentleman who heads up the Tilley Foundation
if you want more answers. He is very knowledgeable and forthcoming in his
answers and has chosen our cars to be the first test subject for his device.
I know this flys in the face of "logic" but the only way it works is because
of his "device". It is his device that actually keeps the batteries charged
all the time. The rest of the car's electrics are no secret. The motors
are standard and so are the batteries and the controllers. I assume he will
not divulge the secret behind his device since this is his invention but let
us all see this spectacular event unfold in Sept when it is subject to
validation and news coverage. I am personally glad that our Delorean was
chosen to get some added POSITIVE attention.
Joseph Molino
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [DML] Electric car
> I was waiting for someone to speak up on this issue but no one has yet
gotten to the heart of the matter.
>
> This self-recharging electric Delorean is a variation of the
Permanent-Magnet "perpetual-motion" machine that has been floating around for years.
> Since there is no theory or science to back up these claims, a verified
and reproducible demonstration is really needed.
>
> Gus Schlachter
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