To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. DeLorean Models
From: "BDM" <bmims1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Run Cooling Fans Flat Out ? / Bob Zilla
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: strange ticking noise
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
5. Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. RE: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Run Cooling Fans Flat Out ? / Bob Zilla
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Torsion bar retainers (stuck & otherwise)
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Sucked into the Cooling Fan Vortex/ Bob Zilla
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: strange ticking noise
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Wanna sound like a time machine?
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
15. Bizarre electrical problem
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: strange ticking noise
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. ECU unit
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
18. California Trip
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. delorean dune buggy??
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
20. Connecticut D sighting
From: Joshieloo@xxxxxxx
21. Re: Wanna sound like a time machine?
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
22. RE: Wanna sound like a time machine?
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Woodward Dream Cruise "Safe Haven"..
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Torsion bar retainers (stuck & otherwise)
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
25. 1st Gear
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 01:21:21 -0500
From: "BDM" <bmims1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Models
( this is a heated subject with those that never got a model. Please contact Bob directly rather than fill the list with 'me too' posts.
Moderator )
Everyone is talking about buying models of the DeLorean. I am still
awaiting delivery on my model from Lee Seiler of Radiance corporation. I
paid the SOB $125 and only got a certificate and a link to a website. I
never received anything except a cancelled check and a promise that the
model was in the mail. Has anyone any information about this scam? If not,
I am contacing the US Attorney and the AG out there in "LaLa Land"
California. Lee Seiler claimed to be the model maker for the Star Wars
movie. I have been ripped off! Anyone else interested? Give me a call at
903-595-2169. It is the number of a pretty good law firm with a mean trial
lawyer.
I am not too interested in buying another model until I learn what happened
to the last one that I purchased.
Anyone with any info on how to get to Lee Seiler should contact me. I have
got a way of suing the MOFO and making him remember it!
Bob Mims
Tyler, Texas
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:16:32 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Run Cooling Fans Flat Out ? / Bob Zilla
The mechanical coolant system and the electrically driven systems are
not "one system"
Your car might be properly flushed, bled and with new coolant, but if
the fans don't work, it WILL overheat. Conversely if the fans work
perfectly, and you get an air-lock, the car will STILL overheat.
What we're discussing here is the electrics which drive the cooling
fans, NOT the coolant system.
(sorry)
Martin
#1458
roscsyl wrote:
>Gary - In my opinion, most of the problems people have with cooling
>are maintenance issues, not design deficiencies. Not changing
>coolant on a regular basis, not properly bleeding the system,
>etc. are the primary causes. The market for these uprated
>parts are to provide more margin for poor maintenance practices.
>
>Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:21:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: strange ticking noise
Mick is Mark's dad. We met up in Memphis (you know what they say about
birds of a feather :-)
Here they are
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DSCN0176.jpg (on the way to the
casino in Memphis)
Martin
#1458
tmpintnl wrote:
>Mark (or is it Mike? See the header below)
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 09:00:49 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
Rick wrote:
> Bastiaan wrote:
[snip]
> > For some reason the plate holding my passenger
> > door torsion bar is fixed solid to it.
[snip]
> > But the plate is still as fixed as can be and I have
> > no way to lower the tension on this torsion bar
[snip]
> When you say that the plate is stuck to the torsion bar,
> I'm unsure what you mean. I'm assuming that you've
> taken the two bolts out that hold the bracket plate to the
> car body, and that the tension on the torsion bar is now
> released, and that for some unknown reason, the
> plate can't slide off of the torsion bar like it should.
I'm not sure, since my Torrsionbars are OK so I won't mess with
them, but isn't it impossible to release the tension with the plate
still on? I thought it would slam into the bodywork or (even
worse) crack the rear window...
> First, try some oil. In U.S.A. we have WD40 which
> loosens stuck parts sometimes if you let it sit for a while.
WD40 is sold in The Netherlands too, along with other stuff,
known by most people as "Liquid Wrench", which we call
"kruipoplie"...
> If this were my car, and oil alone didn't work, I would
> remove the torsion bar and plate (still stuck together)
> from the car all at once,
Don't you have to take off all tension before you can remove
these? I still think the plat has to come off first...
> > Your worse nightmare can then come true as the tool
> > we were using gave out under the intense stress and
> > suddenly I had a nice hole in my roof:-(
> > (mental note, remove roof plate next time).
Bas,
Which roof got damaged anyway? That of th car? Or the roof in
the place you were working in? I don't undertstand how you could
get a hole in your cars' roof when working back there...
> Wees voorzichtig, A.U.B.
:-) That was Dutch! So is this:
Je kunt nooit voorzichtig genoeg zijn...
Good luck,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 07:47:48 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
I suspect this valve is broken in my car, because the AC vents close as soon as I have even minimal boost. Before Memphis, I did not have time to bother with such a trivial item and since Memphis, I don't have the motivation to work on it!
What is inside of the vacuum tank? is there anything mechanical in there to keep the vacuum consistent? or is it just a empty tank?? Mine is no longer in the pontoon (the intercooler is there now!) so I don't have a lot of space for a larger one. How critical is a small increase in size for vacuum reserve?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stragand, Dave [mailto:dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:58 AM
> To: DMC News (E-mail)
> Subject: [DML] Re: Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
>
<SNIP>
> If you're
> still having problems, check out the anti-reverse valve
> leading from the manifold to the vacuum canister in the
> pontoon. It should only "allow vacuum" one way. (If memory
> serves, it's black on one side, white on the other, and about
> the size of 5 or 6 half-dollar coins stacked together. You
> can also simply use a larger vacuum tank out of just about
> anything in a salvage yard. It's hidden deep in the pontoon
> anyway, so what it looks like doesn't matter.
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 06:38:33 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
We have adjusted al lot of PNDC members' torsion bars at our tech
sessions. When the plate is corroded to the torsion bar, liquid wrench
and slow prying (for as much as 20 minutes of aggravatingly slow
movement) has always worked, followed by wire brushing and occasionally
some minor filing. I always look to make sure we are not prying the bar
out of the front socket, but this has never been a problem. I don't
think we have run into a spread or split hex hole.
You cannot release the torsion on the bar with the plate in place,
without damaging the roof/window.
I always have a tap, tap handle, and some spare plate bolts handy,
because we often find that a previous adjuster has cross-threaded one or
more of the bolts. Cross-threading is easy to do when you are trying to
line up the bolt with the hole through a plate that must be kept aligned
rotationally and laterally. It you have to force it, something is wrong.
I prefer to put the bolt in most of the way by hand. This is possible if
you "chase" the hole with the tap if necessary, and make minor
adjustments to the plate as you finger-tighten the bolts.
Usually a one-spline rotation of the plate is enough to tighten or
loosen the torsion enough to correct the sag or bounce. It is always
best to install a new strut first (or to at least try a new strut to see
if it makes a difference).
Hope this helps.
Gary
www.IN2TIME.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:13:39 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
Please respond with the method you would use to remove the anchor
bracket and torsion bar together in the case that you cannot remove
the anchor bracket first. I don't think it is possible without
removing the rear window as when you release the torsion bar the
bracket would hit the glass and I don't know how you would remove the
torsion bar while it is still under stress.
It doesn't happen often but there are times that the anchor bracket
can be difficult to remove. The only way I know how to get the bracket
off is to work it off slowly and carefully while an assistant
maintains torque on the torsion bar so the bracket can't hit the rear
glass. This takes alot of patience and some skill. You also have to be
careful not to slice yourself on the sharp exposed edge of the Tee
roof. This exercise is not for the "faint-of heart" and I would give
it a danger and skill level of 8? Just imagine trying to do this
alone!!!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
> Hallo, Bas
>
> When you say that the plate is stuck to the torsion bar, I'm unsure
> what you mean. I'm assuming that you've taken the two bolts out
that
> hold the bracket plate to the car body, and that the tension on the
> torsion bar is now released, and that for some unknown reason, the
> plate can't slide off of the torsion bar like it should.
>
> If I have understood you correctly, here you go:
>
> First, try some oil. In U.S.A. we have WD40 which loosens stuck
> parts sometimes if you let it sit for a while. I'm sure they have
> something similar in Holland. Regardless of why the parts are stuck
> together, this will help getting them apart with less damage.
>
> If this were my car, and oil alone didn't work, I would remove the
> torsion bar and plate (still stuck together) from the car all at
> once, and press the torsion bar out of the plate removed from the
> car. That way, one can put straighter force on the joint to avoid
> shocking or bending the torsion bar. I try to remember that torsion
> bars don't like bending or hammering or heating. These torsion bars
> are very expensive, and easy to damage. I would keep track of the
> orientation of the torsion bar before removing it, so I could put it
> back the exact same way. After I got the torsion bar out of the
> plate, I would inspect it and the bracket carefully. Why was it
> stuck so bad? It's an important question. Are the splines damaged
> or twisted? Is the end of the torsion bar cracked? Has it been
> hammered? Is the bracket plate rusted or damaged? An overtensioned
> torsion bar should be considered a weak part that might break later
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:21:43 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Run Cooling Fans Flat Out ? / Bob Zilla
Beside taking advantage of using duty cycle (which usually is measured
in more than a minute) the beauty of the Fanzilla is the way it can
take the "kick" out of both fans starting together. This is a major
improvement over the origional system and was never considered by the
deseigners of the electrical system. If you can only afford 1 "Zilla"
then this is the one. Of course you can attempt to copy it's functions
but the way it works and installs is elegant and simple so anyone can
do it as opposed to some of the proposed methods that require changing
the wiring of the car.
Even the fanzilla instuctions warn that it cannot compensate for
existing problems in the cooling and electrical systems.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> The mechanical coolant system and the electrically driven systems
are
> not "one system"
>
> Your car might be properly flushed, bled and with new coolant, but
if
> the fans don't work, it WILL overheat. Conversely if the fans work
> perfectly, and you get an air-lock, the car will STILL overheat.
>
> What we're discussing here is the electrics which drive the cooling
> fans, NOT the coolant system.
>
> (sorry)
>
> Martin
> #1458
>
> roscsyl wrote:
>
> >Gary - In my opinion, most of the problems people have with cooling
> >are maintenance issues, not design deficiencies. Not changing
> >coolant on a regular basis, not properly bleeding the system,
> >etc. are the primary causes. The market for these uprated
> >parts are to provide more margin for poor maintenance practices.
> >
> >Mike
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 15:09:17 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Torsion bar retainers (stuck & otherwise)
If the torsion bar retainer rotates while in its usual position
against the car body, it will hit and damage the rear window and the T
panel. Is rectangular, not square. That's why it must slide off the
torsion bar splines and onto the hex tool holding the torque before
the torsion bar is unloaded (rotated).
The torsion bar seems to wedge into its front receptacle. Don't know
if you can get it free while still under load (to slide both it and
the retainer rearward enough to rotate without hitting anything).
Seems dangerous -- don't know if you should even try.
Wouldn't sliding a loaded torsion bar against the hinge score it and
lead to a stress fracture anyway?
In this county we have luxury of many experienced torsion bar
adjusters. Question is: how to help poor Bastiaan.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 14:50:53 EDT
From: ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx
Subject: Sucked into the Cooling Fan Vortex/ Bob Zilla
Dear Martin,
This is my last post on this subject, at least for now.
I really gotta get back to the work....
My thoughts on this are developed over 20 years with an Engineering
perspective.
However, I find a common misconception among some DML readers and perhaps
some non DML'ers as well.
Often I get the sense that "Here's Bob Z the know it all Engineer who thinks
we're all a bunch of idiots."
Nothing could be further from the truth & reality. I am constantly in awe of
a great many of you guys out there.
I'm always blown away at shows when I have the chance to stake a meaningful
dialog with you only to re-discover how the DeLorean attracts deep and
pensive thinkers. In conversation I refer to many of you as "Rocket
Scientists".
Some of you ARE. Many of you could be.
There is so much intensity to these cooling system discussions that's it's
nearly impossible to address each issue point for point. I just can't right
now.
There is ONLY one reason I posted.
I feel an obligation to dispel the potentially troublesome misinformation of
running the fans continuously.
Simply put, you're not taking the long view.... It seems like the solution,
but it's not. You're dealing with the symptom and not the problem.
As for 40Amp relays. More owners than you can imagine, have ratty contacts in
their relay sockets. A great many owners are in danger of socket meltdowns
and don't know it. The relay may be new and perfectly able to handle the load
but the sockets may not be. This is why I am flat out against running the
fans constantly with the stock setup.
If nothing else, modifying the relay socket system is morally wrong.
Morally ?
Yes, life gets in the way.
The car you loved must be sold to pay for your wedding ..............
It's passed onto someone who will suffer trying to decode it.
What if I'm right on this issue ?
What if, after some time passes, this was not the way to go ? You would NOT
have been the first owner to have passed the buck to another. The problem
worsens in time. Running the fans constantly is now barely cutting it.
To the best of my knowledge there isn't a single DeLorean Specialist Service
center who thinks hot wiring the cooling system is any sort of a cooling
solution.
You want a cooler car ?
Try changing the radiator. PJ Grady's got some nice ones. You are likely to
see a big difference.
Air in the system ? DMC Joe's bleeding system. Clean and straight forward.
My mother could install it.
As for cycling, I'm not going to negotiate this one.
Stop it, and you're looking for long term trouble.
Yes, cycling is spiky but it's the way it was designed and it works.
You want softer cycling ?
There's a product for that.
A properly maintained cooling system will work just fine.
Ask ANY long term ( 20 year ) owner.
Ask an expert service center.
Bob Zilla
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 23:35:58 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> Please respond with the method you would use to remove the anchor
> bracket and torsion bar together in the case that you cannot remove
> the anchor bracket first. I don't think it is possible without
> removing the rear window as when you release the torsion bar the
> bracket would hit the glass...
Hi Dave and Bastiaan.
Thank you, Dave, for exposing a flaw in my method of removing the
torsion bar and retainer plate as a unit, and doing it so
diplomatically, as well. It worked on my car just fine, but I now
suspect that's only because there was no window to get in the way of
the rotating plate in my car, when I did this procedure. It didn't
occur to me that the rotating retainer plate might hit the rear
window. If the stuck-to-the-torsion-bar, and rotating retainer plate
does indeed interfere with the rear window, then my way won't work on
a car with a rear window.
I'm very grateful you picked up on my mistake, and submitted the
error to the DML before Bastiaan tried to act on my method.
I'll be writing Bastiaan directly to let him know that what I've
written might not apply.
Meanwhile, I really liked what IN2TIME had to say about the process.
Rick Gendreau
11472
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 03:03:08 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: strange ticking noise
If I heard a "ticking" noise from the rear of the car I would first
inspect the C/V boots for cuts or leaking grease. I suspect the C/V
joints are either in need of lubrication or are already worn enough to
make noise. It is possible the rear axles are hitting the trailing arm
shields but that should be easy to see,(shiny spots on the shields and
axles). Look up the procedure to remove and lubricate the C/V joints
and see if that has any effect.
Other things to look at are engine mounts, muffler brackets, lug
nuts. You are going to have to get under the car. While you are there
be sure to check the traing arm bolts, exhaust system, hoses, tie rod
end boots, etc.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> Mark (or is it Mike? See the header below) - This is literally a
shot
> in the dark, but check this out - It sounds like the tick comes when
> you have the rear of the car loaded a bit (accelerating, "bottoming
> out" at the base of a long dip, etc.) Has your car been lowered?
The
> reason I ask is that I had a similar experience after I lowered my
car
> down 1.75" in the rear, and 3.5" in the front. When the rear
squatted
> down, I would hear a noise like a tick. It turned out that the
sheet
> metal dust shields below the trailing arms were rubbing on the drive
> axles. There was a shiny band on the axles, and a wear mark on the
> shields. The fix was to bend the edge of the shield up a little in
> the local area above the drive axle to create some additional
> clearance. I hope that helps.
>
> Toby Peterson VIN 2248
> Winged1
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx> wrote:
> >Ok I was driving down a fairly steep hill in 3rd gear and as
> >the road came back up there was a loud ticking noise, which
> >sounded like in the rear. When I press down on the clutch the
> >noise goes off let it up and it comes on again. When I press on the
> >brake the noise goes off. After a couple of miles going 55 in 5th
the
> >sound is gone, and it never comes on again. The next day I drive
the
> >same way and the noise comes back, exactly the same spot. Then
again
> >it goes off.
> >Is this something to do with the drive shaft brakes or what?.
> >The Delorean and the rear engine setup is all new to me.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 03:16:38 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
There is nothing inside the vacuum tank, it is just a resovoir for
vacuum. There may be a check valve to lock the vacuum in from the
engine. The vacuum resovoir is not for the power brakes, it is meant
only to prevent the A/C actuaters from moving during short periods of
low vacuum such as when in a non-turbo car you accelerate and the
vacuum goes low for a short time. Increasing the size of the vacuum
tank will allow longer periods of low vacuum before the actuaters
move from lack of vacuum. You can experiment with different size tanks
to get the response you need. A large metal coffee can makes a good
tank or go to a junk yard and pick one out that looks right. A good
place to hide the vacuum tank might be on top of the fuel tank by the
fuel pump, it doesn't have to be near the motor.
You need a steady source of vacuum for the brakes and the A/C. For
the automatic transmission it uses the vacuum for determining the load
on the engine so it can shift a little softer. A steady source isn't
what it wants. To get it to work right is more difficult than using
tanks or an electric vacuum pump. You really need a valve to control
the vacuum to the modulater in response to engine load if you want to
soften the shifts. This isn't required on a 5-speed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> I suspect this valve is broken in my car, because the AC vents close
as soon as I have even minimal boost. Before Memphis, I did not have
time to bother with such a trivial item and since Memphis, I don't
have the motivation to work on it!
>
> What is inside of the vacuum tank? is there anything mechanical in
there to keep the vacuum consistent? or is it just a empty tank??
Mine is no longer in the pontoon (the intercooler is there now!) so I
don't have a lot of space for a larger one. How critical is a small
increase in size for vacuum reserve?
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Stragand, Dave [mailto:dave.stragand@k...]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 9:58 AM
> > To: DMC News (E-mail)
> > Subject: [DML] Re: Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
> >
> <SNIP>
> > If you're
> > still having problems, check out the anti-reverse valve
> > leading from the manifold to the vacuum canister in the
> > pontoon. It should only "allow vacuum" one way. (If memory
> > serves, it's black on one side, white on the other, and about
> > the size of 5 or 6 half-dollar coins stacked together. You
> > can also simply use a larger vacuum tank out of just about
> > anything in a salvage yard. It's hidden deep in the pontoon
> > anyway, so what it looks like doesn't matter.
> <SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 03:39:52 -0000
From: "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Wanna sound like a time machine?
Not sure if this will make it through the mods, but it is partially
DeLorean related. I remember awhile back there was a thread
discussing that some owners wanted to have the BTTF door opening
sound integrated into their DeLorean. Well, I've finally gotten
around to playing with my ISD1000A audio record/playback chips and I
think it would be quite easy to do some fun stuff with it. The chip
can be configured to play once when a switch is closed, or loop
continously as long as it is closed. While I'm not familiar enough
with the DeLorean to know how you would attach some sort of sensor
to close a switch from the time the door begins to open until its
fully opened; I do think that you could possibly place an infrared
emitter and detector underneath the shift boot. Each time then,
that the shift lever passes from one gear to another, the infrared
beam would be crossed, and this could activate a switch on the
ISD1000A to play the BTTF shifting sound. Some of you may be
familiar with it, it sounds cool :) In any case, I've been lucky
enough to salvage these chips from some of the Radio Shack stores up
here for a mere $4.97. If anyone has, or is willing to record the
shifting sound from the movie, please email it to me: supermatty(at)
psu.edu. I would be more than happy to wire up a circuit for
testing if someone would like to try it out in their car. As I
said, I don't have a DeLorean myself yet or else I would.
thanks,
Matt Spittle
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:59:44 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Bizarre electrical problem
Hi all
Since posting this to dmc_electrics, Rich has tried to chase this one
down for the best part of a day and AFAIK has failed. I have also
managed to put my glovebox back together :-)
--
Hiya
You could stare at the wiring diagram all day and not figure this one
out. I'm hoping someone with more knowledge than me of where the wiring
loom traces will have an idea on this one.
On #2727 we're having a really bizarre problem. The ignition relay will
not turn off when the key is removed. If you un-plug the switched feed
to the relay, it of course turns the relay off, but plugging it back in
does not turn it back on. From this I assume the relay must be powering
itself somehow (turn it on and the supply it's switching is somehow fed
back to the coil).
In thinking about this, when in the "powering itself" condition, we
removed each fuse in turn thinking that whatever system that was fed
from the ignition relay that was also powering the ignition relay would
be turned off by removing the fuse. Well it was a good place to start!!
Anyway, removing fuse #4 (Brake + DI Lights) immediately turned the
relay off, and with it removed the ignition comes on and turns off fine
with the key. Bizzarrely though, the brake and indicator lights STLL
WORK without this fuse in place.
Secondly
You know how turning the igntion on often results in the RPM relay
cycling once and turning the fuel pump on for a second or so? Well,
#2727 does NOT do this. However, with the ignition on, of you turn the
headlights on, or flash the high-beams with the stalk, the RPM relay
cycles.
EH?!?!?!
Oh well it's Rich's car, and he's at least as capable as me on
electrical things, so I'll just take a back seat and revel in the fact
that #1458 works beautifully, even if I can't work out how the damn
glovebox goes back together.....
Martin
#1458
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 11:12:46 -0000
From: "adam_one_million" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: strange ticking noise
You may be missing antirattle springs from your brakes... my left
rear wheel makes a clicking sound sometimes, and when i press on the
brake it goes away.. just like your clicking eh?
Adam
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok I was driving down a fairly steep hill in 3rd gear and as
> the road came back up there was a loud ticking noise, which
> sounded like in the rear. When I press down on the clutch the
> noise goes off let it up and it comes on again. When I press on the
brake
> the noise goes off. After a couple of miles going 55 in 5th the
sound is
> gone,
> and it never comes on again. The next day I drive the same way and
the
> noise
> comes back, exactly the same spot. Then again it goes off.
>
> Is this something to do with the drive shaft brakes or what?.
> The Delorean and the rear engine setup is all new to me.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark Twigger
>
> #1366
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 11:31:42 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ECU unit
I have an ECU unit (black box behind the drivers seat) that I'm not
sure if it works or not. It appears to be good. The connections and
such look good and the box doesn't have any problems with it. Would
I damage my delorean if I swapped out ECU's to test? The ECU that I
want to test came from an automatic, and my car is a manual. Where
there any differences?
Thanks,
Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 19:36:58 +0800
From: "Ian Foster" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: California Trip
DMLers,
I will be in California from 30Aug02 till 10Sept02 checking out the
refurbishment of my right-hand-drive DeLorean.
Is anything DeLorean related happening in LA or SanFransisco during that
time? If there was a Show I could possibly trailor my car there to let y'all
see a DeLorean with the steering wheel "on the wrong side!!!"
Anyone know of any other good car, motorcycle shows, swap-meets, etc during
that time?
Regards, IAN (Hong Kong)
******************************
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 12:06:41 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: delorean dune buggy??
Hi,
My dad and I have been working on cleaning up a fire damaged
delorean. A lot of the fiberglass in the back was burned so we took
the "saws all" out and got rid of the useless areas. This included
the top, and the areas surrounding the engine. We had 3 people in
one day stop by our house and were wondering if we are working on a
DMC Dunebuggy. I didn't notice it at first, but it really does look
like a dunebuggy. I've uploaded more pics on the Yahoo Vault under
BURNED DELOREAN. here is a link to the vault.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/lst
Erik
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 08:09:11 EDT
From: Joshieloo@xxxxxxx
Subject: Connecticut D sighting
List,
I spotted a DeLorean headed North on the Merritt PKWY in Connecticut on
Tuesday night around 7:30 pm. I saw it before it passed over the Sikorshy
bridge.
It is amazing how one second your not paying attention to where you're going
and then you look up to the other side of the highway and you fixate on the
sleekness of a DeLorean! This isn't the first time it has happened this way,
so I must have some type of "DeLorean radar."
If you are on the list, please let me know. Another buddy and I are trying to
locate as many D owners in the area so we can get together for the cruise
night at Marcus Dairy in Danbury, CT.
Thanks,
Joshua Schwartz
001292
Trumbull, CT
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 13:11:48 -0000
From: "erikgeerdink" <erikgeerdink@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Wanna sound like a time machine?
I have done this, not to a real delorean, but to a radio controlled
Delorean i have, also another toy delorean. now when I drive the RC
car around it plays the BTTF theme song. Kind of cool. I'm working
on making so I can press a button on the controller and it starts to
play on the car.
I haven't done anything with my real delorean at all, but that would
be kind of cool.
Erik
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "supermattthehero" <supermatty@xxxx> wrote:
> Not sure if this will make it through the mods, but it is partially
> DeLorean related. I remember awhile back there was a thread
> discussing that some owners wanted to have the BTTF door opening
> sound integrated into their DeLorean. Well, I've finally gotten
> around to playing with my ISD1000A audio record/playback chips and
I
> think it would be quite easy to do some fun stuff with it. The
chip
> can be configured to play once when a switch is closed, or loop
> continously as long as it is closed. While I'm not familiar enough
> with the DeLorean to know how you would attach some sort of sensor
> to close a switch from the time the door begins to open until its
> fully opened; I do think that you could possibly place an infrared
> emitter and detector underneath the shift boot. Each time then,
> that the shift lever passes from one gear to another, the infrared
> beam would be crossed, and this could activate a switch on the
> ISD1000A to play the BTTF shifting sound. Some of you may be
> familiar with it, it sounds cool :) In any case, I've been lucky
> enough to salvage these chips from some of the Radio Shack stores
up
> here for a mere $4.97. If anyone has, or is willing to record the
> shifting sound from the movie, please email it to me: supermatty
(at)
> psu.edu. I would be more than happy to wire up a circuit for
> testing if someone would like to try it out in their car. As I
> said, I don't have a DeLorean myself yet or else I would.
>
> thanks,
>
> Matt Spittle
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:13:35 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Wanna sound like a time machine?
Bob Zilla is currently working on that exact project, at least the sound
effects part. It will plug into the Zilla keyless entry/Launcher kit
and when the doors are opened or closed the sounds kick in.
Jack & Virginia Stiefel http://www.sacketmansion.com
1981 DeLorean Vin 3461 August 1981 Build
1988 Jaguar XJ-SC V-12
Live Internet Radio at 104.9 Radio Cape Vincent
http://www.radiocapevincent.com
-----Original Message-----
From: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 11:40 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Wanna sound like a time machine?
Not sure if this will make it through the mods, but it is partially
DeLorean related. I remember awhile back there was a thread
discussing that some owners wanted to have the BTTF door opening
sound integrated into their DeLorean. Well, I've finally gotten
around to playing with my ISD1000A audio record/playback chips and I
think it would be quite easy to do some fun stuff with it. The chip
can be configured to play once when a switch is closed, or loop
continously as long as it is closed. While I'm not familiar enough
with the DeLorean to know how you would attach some sort of sensor
to close a switch from the time the door begins to open until its
fully opened; I do think that you could possibly place an infrared
emitter and detector underneath the shift boot. Each time then,
that the shift lever passes from one gear to another, the infrared
beam would be crossed, and this could activate a switch on the
ISD1000A to play the BTTF shifting sound. Some of you may be
familiar with it, it sounds cool :) In any case, I've been lucky
enough to salvage these chips from some of the Radio Shack stores up
here for a mere $4.97. If anyone has, or is willing to record the
shifting sound from the movie, please email it to me: supermatty(at)
psu.edu. I would be more than happy to wire up a circuit for
testing if someone would like to try it out in their car. As I
said, I don't have a DeLorean myself yet or else I would.
thanks,
Matt Spittle
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 14:05:15 -0000
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Woodward Dream Cruise "Safe Haven"..
If anyone is going to be at the Dream Cruise and needs any Delorean
assistance, a few tools, a driveway to do some quick work, a safe
haven, etc...drop me an email and we can exchange contact cell phone
numbers or whatever. I'm about a mile/two off of Woodward and 14
mile and will be trying to have my D running in it as well.
If you haven't been there before, do your best to do some early
Saturday morning cruising, especially around the northern end of
Woodward...the area around 11 mile - 15 mile can get quite conjested
later, and everything gets conjested when the sun shines and the day
goes on... so plan an 'out' and make sure you have your cooling
system in order! :)
Otherwise, keep your eye out for a Red Lotus Europa :) I know that
will be running...but the D is still on the ER.
Pete
#6707
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 15:09:40 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar retainers (stuck & otherwise)
> If the torsion bar retainer rotates while in its usual position
> against the car body, it will hit and damage the rear window
[snip]
> Question is: how to help poor Bastiaan.
Just a quick thought, not sure if thie is possible:
On the left side, seen from the back, the retainer wants to
unwind counterclockwise. So the retainer and Torsionbar
are stuck that way.
Would it be possible to leave the bracket in place, put the
hex tool into the T-bar and torque it up a little MORE with
the retainer in place? I think this clockwise motion COULD
get the bar free from the retainer.
After freeing it, you could lessen torque held onto the tool
so the bolts in the retainer can be removed...
It's just an idea; when I had trouble getting a lugnut OFF,
I torqued it UP a little, afte which it came off without any trouble.
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 25
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 09:06:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Scott Tester <scott@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1st Gear
I've noticed while driving my DeLorean I need to be almost completely stopped before moving the shifter into 1st gear, otherwise I get a gear grind.
Is this common among DeLoreans, or is something in my gearbox not right?
Scott Tester scott(at)delorean(dot)com VIN#4260
_____________________________________________________________
It's not too late to get your 1/18 scale Diecast DeLorean model! To order, call 800/USA-DMC1 or visit our online store at http://www.delorean.com
_____________________________________________________________
Promote your group and strengthen ties to your members with email@xxxxxxxxxxxxx by Everyone.net http://www.everyone.net/?btn=tag
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN
