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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
From: "Darrin Nieves" <d_nieves@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Tire Suggestions
From: "mparish.ga" <mparish.ga@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Recommendation: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Tire Suggestions
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Recommendation: Torsion bar adjustment
From: Bastiaan Olij <mux@xxxxxx>
7. Re: (Re:) Radiator Cooling Fan Rewire
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Door stuck and won't open
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Tire Suggestions
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Woodward Dream Cruise, MI
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Door stuck and won't open
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Recommendation: Torsion bar adjustment
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. (Re:) Radiator Cooling Fan Rewire
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Tire Suggestions
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Tire Suggestions
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Tire Suggestions
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:43:06 -0400
From: "Darrin Nieves" <d_nieves@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
Find a socket slightly smaller than your stripped lugnut, hammer the socket
onto the lugnut then use an air (or regular) rachet to get it off. Don't
forget to put anti sieze on every lug nut next time so you don't go through
this again (same thing happened to me).
----- Original Message -----
From: "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 8:51 PM
Subject: [DML] How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
> Has anybody ever had a lug nut stripped out? The million dollar
> question is how to remove it? I've been messing around with it for a
> few
> hours and have had no luck. Can you cut it off with a torch or some
> how drill it out? If anybody has a idea I would appreciate it very
> much. Thank You
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 23:21:23 -0400
From: "mparish.ga" <mparish.ga@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tire Suggestions
I need to replace my NCT's and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what I should replace them with. I am having a hard time finding very many options for tires that will fit the deliria.
Thanks
Michael
#11225
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 04:33:53 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Recommendation: Torsion bar adjustment
Am fresh back from day trip to get torsion bars adjusted (and a nap to
compensate for 4 hours sleep -- hey Louie, can you spell "road trip").
IMHO, this is not an optional procedure. Put it on your short list w/
cooling system modifications etc. Door struts are wonderful, and they
serve a purpose, but they are not a substitute for *proper* torsion
bar adjustment.
Key word here is "proper": this is not a procedure for the novice.
Definitely is not to be performed solo. Risk of damage to car or self
is great -- take the vehicle to a tech clinic or guru.
FWIW: 10 hour freeway burn did wonders for my Volvoized PRV (as did
adjusting back towards original throttle bypass settings -- some of us
don't have the luxury of a Lambda unit and all the things it's
apparently supposed to control). Don't hide your D or let it sit idle
in a garage or barn (or drive it as if it were made of porcelain).
Lot's of opinions about lots of aspects of the car, but I think
everyone can agree that it needs lots of room to run.
Bill Robertson
#5939
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2002 22:52:17 -0700
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
2 ways. first get a socket that is just a bit too small and pound it on the
lug with a BFSH (Big F Sledge Hammer), then a big breaker bar. and 2 if
thhat dont work have someone weld the socket to the lug and twist the sucker
off. either way if it's been cross threaded you will most likely break the
lug off.
Darkstar
-----Original Message-----
From: fluxmcfly [mailto:bfreyguy@xxxxxxx]
Sent: August 11, 2002 5:52 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
Has anybody ever had a lug nut stripped out? The million dollar
question is how to remove it? I've been messing around with it for a
few
hours and have had no luck. Can you cut it off with a torch or some
how drill it out? If anybody has a idea I would appreciate it very
much. Thank You
Brian
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 07:20:02 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tire Suggestions
Michelin pilots. They are excellent and soft and wear well and look stock.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "mparish.ga" <mparish.ga@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 11:21 PM
Subject: [DML] Tire Suggestions
> I need to replace my NCT's and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions
on what I should replace them with. I am having a hard time finding very
many options for tires that will fit the deliria.
>
> Thanks
> Michael
> #11225
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:33:49 +0200
From: Bastiaan Olij <mux@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Recommendation: Torsion bar adjustment
At Monday, 12 August 2002, you wrote:
Hi Bill,
I have to second your opinion here. My Delorean had been sitting
on my driveway since the start of the year because of financial reasons.
Last week I took her out for a drive from one end of the Netherlands
to the other (something in the order of 300 miles) and I've been
driving her the rest of the week to work and back.
She has never ran this good, she really gets grateful if you push
her to her limits ones in a while.
As for the torsionbars, I can definately underline how important
it is to do this in proper surroundings and with propper tools, but
even then it can go wrong. For some reason the plate holding my passenger
door torsion bar is fixed solid to it. I'm thinking it may be glued
to the torsion bar for some reason. No getting it loose whatsoever.
Your worse nightmare can then come true as the tool we were using
gave out under the intense stress and suddenly I had a nice hole
in my roof:-( (mental note, remove roof plate next time).
Got it all fixed very nicely though, mechanic is a star when it comes
to that. But the plate is still as fixed as can be and I have no
way to lower the tension on this torsion bar which is much to high:
-(
Greetz,
Bas Olij
>Am fresh back from day trip to get torsion bars adjusted (and a nap to
>compensate for 4 hours sleep -- hey Louie, can you spell "road trip").
>
>IMHO, this is not an optional procedure. Put it on your short list w/
>cooling system modifications etc. Door struts are wonderful, and they
>serve a purpose, but they are not a substitute for *proper* torsion
>bar adjustment.
>
>Key word here is "proper": this is not a procedure for the novice.
>Definitely is not to be performed solo. Risk of damage to car or self
>is great -- take the vehicle to a tech clinic or guru.
>
>FWIW: 10 hour freeway burn did wonders for my Volvoized PRV (as did
>adjusting back towards original throttle bypass settings -- some of us
>don't have the luxury of a Lambda unit and all the things it's
>apparently supposed to control). Don't hide your D or let it sit idle
>in a garage or barn (or drive it as if it were made of porcelain).
>Lot's of opinions about lots of aspects of the car, but I think
>everyone can agree that it needs lots of room to run.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.
com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:31:15 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: (Re:) Radiator Cooling Fan Rewire
Hi Dave
Actually I wired up mine to run on two relays, but rather than modify the sockets, I used a pair of trailing sockets and crimped on the spade terminals to the wires. I found some really nice DIN relays with integrated blade fuse socket, and you don't really need a 5-pin relay (the centre one is not present on these new ones).
To light the fan-fail light when the fans are on, you need to use a pair of diodes BTW. Long protracted explanation via e-mail if interested!
Martin
#1458
Dave Sontos wrote:
> Using the procedure from Darryl Tinnerstet I finally got rid of my three wire jumper in the fan fail module. Actually its a good thing too because one of the wires was turning brown on one end.
>
> The only problems I had were that I couldn't find the new relay female crimp terminals for the two short jumpers you need to make and finding the additional five pin relay to go in the fan fail module socket. I ended up sabotaging the hot start relay socket terminals and after going to three different auto parts stores finally found a five pin relay.
>
> My suggestion to anyone thinking of attempting this modification is to get the parts from Darryl or one of the other DeLorean suppliers FIRST.
>
> I am very happy with the change and feel a lot more comfortable having the two relays in there instead of that damn jumper thing.
>
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:35:02 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door stuck and won't open
You'll probably find the front latch still "thinks" it is locked - it won't matter how
hard you pull on the handle, it'll just move freely and not unlatch it.
The link for the front lock runs along the bottom of the door directly beneath where the
grab handle is. Using a pair of pliers, give this a good tug towards the back of the car.
Hopefully you'll hear a click from the front latch and the door will then open. My pass
door has done this many times. It takes a bit of fiddling to get the linkages adjusted
correctly.
Martin
#1458
wmack wrote:
> My drivers side door will not open. The rear latch has released and the door
> has cleared the striker pin. However, the front latch has no released. I
> have taken the interior apart and tried to manually release the latch, but no
> success. I have taken the lower side trim off and tried to open the latch
> from underneath, but that didn't work either.
> I am puzzled as to what to do now? I do not know how to open the door, other
> than to break the latch and buy a new one.
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Wille
> Vin 5043
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 13:37:45 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tire Suggestions
Pirelli P6000 (front) and P600 (rear). Quite a few Ds have this combo on both sides of the pond and you'd be hard pushed to find anyone who doesn't have other than great praise for them. The tyres are
almost identical in appearance, though the tread is different.
Search the archives a couple of months back for a post from Kayo Ong re the comparison between Yokohamas and Pirellis.
Martin
#1458
"mparish.ga" wrote:
> I need to replace my NCT's and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what I should replace them with. I am having a hard time finding very many options for tires that will fit the deliria.
>
> Thanks
> Michael
> #11225
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 07:15:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Woodward Dream Cruise, MI
As promised here is the update that was printed in the August DCO newsletter:
"
Sat Aug 17 the DCO is heading out to the Woodward Dream Cruise, one of the
largest car gatherings in the country!
Where to meet up:
Time - Between 9:30 am & 10 am
Place - The welcome center about 10 miles into Michigan on I-75
This will get us to the cruise around 11 am. Everyone bring their family service
radio/walkie-talkies!
Dinner:
We will all meet at the Crackerbarrel in Monroe MI on I-75 around 5pm on the way
back and have a little get together to discuss the days events.
"
Shannon Y
VIN# <10 months to go!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:22:46 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door stuck and won't open
What it may take to open the door is while you are trying to release
the latch have someone else try to lift open the door. The latch may
be trying to release but the door is stuck on the head of the anchor
bolt. When you do finally get the door open get a small inspection
light and make sure the door isn't rubbing on the head of the anchor
pin as the door closes. If needed add or remove washers to get the pin
to line up nicely going into the door latch. You may also have to
adjust the position so it doesn't rub hard on the guides. Remove any
fiberglass that interferes with the correct positioning of the anchor
pin. Tighten really tight so the pin can't move after adjustment. This
needs to be done on flat and level ground so the door closes evenly. I
have seen that most problem doors need the anchor pins adjusted to
make the doors open and close smoothly. You may also need to adjust
the linkage after all of the forcing of the door.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, wmack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> My drivers side door will not open. The rear latch has released and
the door
> has cleared the striker pin. However, the front latch has no
released. I
> have taken the interior apart and tried to manually release the
latch, but no
> success. I have taken the lower side trim off and tried to open the
latch
> from underneath, but that didn't work either.
> I am puzzled as to what to do now? I do not know how to open the
door, other
> than to break the latch and buy a new one.
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Wille
> Vin 5043
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:29:38 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How do you remove a stripped out lug nut
I am assuming the lug nut turns but does not thread off. Short of
trying to grind it off or split it get a vise-grip or an undersize
socket on it and as you turn it stick a screwdriver or something sharp
behind the lug, or try pulling on the rim after removing all of the
other lug nuts, and with constant pressure and slowly turning the lug
nut it should thread off. After getting the wheel off inspect ALL of
the studs and lug nuts. Slivers of metal mean threads are worn. This
happens from using too aggressive an air tool or overtorquing the
lugs. Clean all of the threads being careful nut to get the slivers in
your fingers. Retorque to spec in sequence.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "fluxmcfly" <bfreyguy@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anybody ever had a lug nut stripped out? The million dollar
> question is how to remove it? I've been messing around with it for a
> few
> hours and have had no luck. Can you cut it off with a torch or some
> how drill it out? If anybody has a idea I would appreciate it very
> much. Thank You
>
>
> Brian
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:39:11 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Recommendation: Torsion bar adjustment
In some cases the anchor bracket is very tight on the splines. It can
be carefully and slowly worked off. After removal try for fit on the
other torsion bar. If it fits nicely then file the splines on the
tight torsion bar. If it doesn't fit file the splines on the bracket.
Either way the bracket should slide on easily. Also inspect the head
of the torsion bar inside the allen head. Sometimes the bar can split
causing the head to expand during adjustment making removal of the
anchor bracket very difficult. You can strike the torsion bar on the
ends if required to work the bracket off. Use a plastic or rubber
hammer or block of wood. This is where a mechanic can really earn his
pay! Sometimes what seems like a really easy little job turns into a
nightmare! Another thing that can go really wrong is when one of the
bolts holding the anchor bracket is stripped. Without the proper tools
and an assistant you can really get in deep on this one!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Bastiaan Olij <mux@xxxx> wrote:
> At Monday, 12 August 2002, you wrote:
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I have to second your opinion here. My Delorean had been sitting
> on my driveway since the start of the year because of financial
reasons.
> Last week I took her out for a drive from one end of the Netherlands
> to the other (something in the order of 300 miles) and I've been
> driving her the rest of the week to work and back.
>
> She has never ran this good, she really gets grateful if you push
> her to her limits ones in a while.
>
> As for the torsionbars, I can definately underline how important
> it is to do this in proper surroundings and with propper tools, but
> even then it can go wrong. For some reason the plate holding my
passenger
> door torsion bar is fixed solid to it. I'm thinking it may be glued
> to the torsion bar for some reason. No getting it loose whatsoever.
> Your worse nightmare can then come true as the tool we were using
> gave out under the intense stress and suddenly I had a nice hole
> in my roof:-( (mental note, remove roof plate next time).
>
> Got it all fixed very nicely though, mechanic is a star when it
comes
> to that. But the plate is still as fixed as can be and I have no
> way to lower the tension on this torsion bar which is much to high:
> -(
>
> Greetz,
>
> Bas Olij
>
> >Am fresh back from day trip to get torsion bars adjusted (and a nap
to
> >compensate for 4 hours sleep -- hey Louie, can you spell "road
trip").
> >
> >IMHO, this is not an optional procedure. Put it on your short list
w/
> >cooling system modifications etc. Door struts are wonderful, and
they
> >serve a purpose, but they are not a substitute for *proper* torsion
> >bar adjustment.
> >
> >Key word here is "proper": this is not a procedure for the novice.
> >Definitely is not to be performed solo. Risk of damage to car or
self
> >is great -- take the vehicle to a tech clinic or guru.
> >
> >FWIW: 10 hour freeway burn did wonders for my Volvoized PRV (as did
> >adjusting back towards original throttle bypass settings -- some of
us
> >don't have the luxury of a Lambda unit and all the things it's
> >apparently supposed to control). Don't hide your D or let it sit
idle
> >in a garage or barn (or drive it as if it were made of porcelain).
> >Lot's of opinions about lots of aspects of the car, but I think
> >everyone can agree that it needs lots of room to run.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> >moderator@xxxx
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.
> com/group/dmcnews
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
>
>
> ===================================================================
> EASY and FREE access to your email anywhere: http://Mailreader.com/
> ===================================================================
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 14:47:55 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: (Re:) Radiator Cooling Fan Rewire
Of the Fan Fail Relay Bypass Jumpers I have seen they all start to get
crisp. A member of our club actually had his smoke. IMHO no one should
be driving on the wire bypass unless it is an emergency and then with
constant inspection leaving the cover and carpet off. The wire bypass
was meant as a temporary fix until the factory could do better. The
Fan Fail Relay is even more dangerous. All owners should consider
either a Fanzilla or a "generic" replacement. At the first wiff of
burning insulation open the cover behind the passenger seat and see
what is melting! Bad connections in the fuseblock and that can melt
too. This area should be inspected at least once a year.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxx> wrote:
> Using the procedure from Darryl Tinnerstet I finally got rid of my
three wire jumper in the fan fail module. Actually its a good thing
too because one of the wires was turning brown on one end.
>
> The only problems I had were that I couldn't find the new relay
female crimp terminals for the two short jumpers you need to make and
finding the additional five pin relay to go in the fan fail module
socket. I ended up sabotaging the hot start relay socket terminals and
after going to three different auto parts stores finally found a five
pin relay.
>
> My suggestion to anyone thinking of attempting this modification is
to get the parts from Darryl or one of the other DeLorean suppliers
FIRST.
>
> I am very happy with the change and feel a lot more comfortable
having the two relays in there instead of that damn jumper thing.
>
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 15:36:38 -0000
From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tire Suggestions
I've got a couple tire suggestions that I've never heard mentioned.
My previous set of tires were Goodyear Eagle HP's. I wasn't very
happy with them, probably just because they were unevenly worn by the
time I bought the car.
Right now, I have Cooper Dominator Sport tires on my D. They look
really nice, and I've been impressed with their performance.
I had tried ordering the Pirelli set from my local tire dealer, and
they had problems locating either P6000's or P600's (I can't remember
which now), and that's when they suggested the Coopers.
Aaron
#1506
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 11:42:04 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tire Suggestions
Try www.tirerack.com. They even have the DeLorean as one of the cars on
their list. Good luck. Lots of good information there too.
-Mike A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "mparish.ga" <mparish.ga@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 11, 2002 11:21 PM
Subject: [DML] Tire Suggestions
> I need to replace my NCT's and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions
on what I should replace them with. I am having a hard time finding very
many options for tires that will fit the deliria.
>
> Thanks
> Michael
> #11225
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 16:53:38 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer
If I understand Dave Swingle, your problem likely was hex tool not
seated completely in retainer (obviously came loose once -- lucky you
didn't crack the back window too). If tool is not fully seated, will
distort splined end of torsion bar just enough to lock into retainer.
Fellow I travelled with had same problem. Dave was able to slowly rock
it off with small pry bars on either side of retainer (where bolts
attach to the car).
To avoid this, he repeatedly raps the hex tool into the retainer with
a hammer throughout the whole procedure.
Torsion bar will also freeze into receptacle at front of car -- have
to use same hex tool in the other direction to literally "crack" free.
Note that over torqued torsion bars will tear the metal plate over the
back window loose from the car and distort it. Our cars have precious
little metal in them to begin with -- don't want to mangle what's there.
I watched Dave's every step. I understood everything he did. And I'm
still not going to attempt the procedure myself. Perhaps one day, but
not now. If there's a club or *able* mechanic within any sort of
driving distance, I again recommend making the trip, even if it's an
overnight.
Add to the list of things you can tear up: the torsion bars themselves
(apparently even a minute scrape will magnify into a major fracture
under their stress).
Bill Robertson
#5939
> For some reason the plate holding my passenger
> door torsion bar is fixed solid to it. I'm thinking it may be glued
> to the torsion bar for some reason. No getting it loose whatsoever.
> Your worse nightmare can then come true as the tool we were using
> gave out under the intense stress and suddenly I had a nice hole
> in my roof:-( (mental note, remove roof plate next time).
>
>
> Greetz,
>
> Bas Olij
>
> >Am fresh back from day trip to get torsion bars adjusted (and a nap to
> >compensate for 4 hours sleep -- hey Louie, can you spell "road trip").
> >
> >IMHO, this is not an optional procedure. Put it on your short list w/
> >cooling system modifications etc. Door struts are wonderful, and they
> >serve a purpose, but they are not a substitute for *proper* torsion
> >bar adjustment.
> >
> >Key word here is "proper": this is not a procedure for the novice.
> >Definitely is not to be performed solo. Risk of damage to car or self
> >is great -- take the vehicle to a tech clinic or guru.
> >
> >FWIW: 10 hour freeway burn did wonders for my Volvoized PRV (as did
> >adjusting back towards original throttle bypass settings -- some of us
> >don't have the luxury of a Lambda unit and all the things it's
> >apparently supposed to control). Don't hide your D or let it sit idle
> >in a garage or barn (or drive it as if it were made of porcelain).
> >Lot's of opinions about lots of aspects of the car, but I think
> >everyone can agree that it needs lots of room to run.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> >moderator@xxxx
> >
> >To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.
> com/group/dmcnews
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
>
>
>
>
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 17:54:52 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vacuum Source For Turbo Cars
I just came across a way for Delorean owners with turbos to have a
constant and reliable vacuum source for the heating/A/C, automatic
trans, and power brakes. I have not seen this myself, only the ad but
it looks interesting. For anyone who is interested go to ssbrakes.com
or call 800-448-7722. This is an electric vacuum pump that can supply
vacuum to run accesories.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 19:12:28 EDT
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tire Suggestions
I'm a big fan of the BFGoodrich Radial T/As with the raised white lettering.
The lettering adds something to the DMC I think.
John
4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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