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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: New Delorean owner in Northen NJ
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: New Delorean owner in Northen NJ
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Delorean Depot?
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Afghan?
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
5. Re: Transmission and Oil question
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Re: Transmission and Oil question
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Transmission and Oil question
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Transmission change
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Canadian DeLoreans
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. DMC Afghan
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
11. Michigan Delorean Service? Help!
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. The DeLorean Owners Directory- Was: Delorean Registry
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Re: Afghan?
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Delorean Project for Sale (#06014 in Florida)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Michigan Delorean Service? Help!
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Michigan Delorean Service? Help!
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
17. Re: Transmission change
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
19. DeLorean in Lake Forest, IL???
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
20. RE: Re: Afghan?
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. DMC Jacking Points
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Transmission change
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: DMC Jacking Points
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: Transmission change
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Re: Transmission change
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 07:55:42 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: New Delorean owner in Northen NJ
1. Best thing to do is have it looked at by a DeLorean mechanic, or someone local to you familiar with DeLorean (In NJ, you have both!)
2. Some people say change it, some don't.. I think the bottle cracking is probably more hype than anything, but you do what you think is best.
3. None that I know of.. I'm sure others will respond.
4. www.deloreanmidatlantic.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: silverdelorean2002 [mailto:silvercrw646@xxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, July 22, 2002 10:11 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] New Delorean owner in Northen NJ
>
>
> HEy guys just got my 82' delorean that i have been waiting all my
> life for. Its great with 23K miles. The exterior is near perfect and
> the interior needs a new driver side seat cover. The glove box is
> also faded along with a little on the dash. Other then that the car
> is great and drive awesome. I have a few questions.
>
> 1. How can I check what needed updated were done to the car?
> 2. The coolant bottle is original and i was told that it wasnt
> defective.
> 3. Any recomendations on fixing or recovering the driver side seat
> along with making the leather soft. It is very hard after all theese
> years.
> 4. Is there any delorean club in the Northen NJ metro Area. I would
> love to meet some people with deloreans and go to shows together.
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 12:25:00 -0000
From: "dursman" <dursman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New Delorean owner in Northen NJ
Hey Jon,
1. To check what updates where done to your car the easiest thing to
do would be to ask the person you bought it from. Or ask him where
it was serviced (my guess would be PJ Grady) and call him up. Any
receipts from work done on the car should be available.
2. The original coolant bottle should be fine, but if it does start
leaking there is a (stainless?) aftermarket bottle that is
available. It looks great and won't deteriorate like the original.
3. Purchasing a new seat will be expensive, but so will recovering
it. There are seat covers that will fit our seats and they are
available in grey. Most autoparts stores (or even Walmart, Kmart,
etc.) would have ones that fit our car. The seats are not very
difficult sizes. There are leather conditioners available that will
soften the seats, but those will not repair rips or cracks.
4. I live in Morris County (northwest jersey) and I don't know of any
official clubs either by me, or out by you. It is always possible to
join the Owners Association though. Congradulations on your purchase
and good luck with the car!
-Chris-
VIN 10213
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 13:24:07 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Depot?
<SNIP>
> 1. Buy a POS DeLorean & completely restore it?
<SNIP>
> Best Wishes,
> Michael
That's what I did. I'm not done with restoring it but it gives me
great joy in restoring it....more of a stress reliever. :) I'm not
restoring it to concourse level or originality, I'm restoring it
back to life with some improvements offered by some of the D vendors
(Like the heavy duty parts that Rob makes, Zilla, Marty Maier's
(SP?) braided stainless steel brake hoses, etc).
Steve
3365 (still with front brake problems...grrrr)
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 13:35:22 -0000
From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Afghan?
> > For those of you who ordered our DeLorean Afghan
> > at the Memphis show, I have good news!
I hate to sound stupid, but can someone please tell me
what an Afghan is, other than someone living in Afghanistan?
I tried several searches on the internet,
but nothing helpfull came up.
Please reply privately on<jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>,
so the list doesn't clutter up.
Thanks,
Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
--------------------------------
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 20:12:26 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Transmission and Oil question
[MODERATOR NOTE] Yes folks, another oil thread. I'm letting this next batch
thru as a courtesy to the posters and then that's it. The next couple of posts
give good web references for your further study. As alsways, choice of oil
has something of a religious aspect to it and no concrete answer will be
reached no matter how many times it comes up. ---Dave
In a message dated 7/22/02 6:18:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
tomciodmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> Andy thank you for the explanation of "how oil works". I'm sure a lot of
> people on the DML will benefit from reading it. But there is one thing I
> don't understand. You say that you should change the oil every 3000 miles.
> According to the DeLorean Owner's Handbook You should change it every 7500
> miles. Also most car manufacturers in Europe tell you to change the oil
> every 15000km (about 9375 miles). So the question is, should I follow the
> Owner's Handbook OR the guys that make and sell engine oil? (and are
> interested in selling more)
Tom,
Perhaps the real question here is 'why push it'? The owner's manual for my
1990 Olds Cutlass Surpreme says to change the oil and filter and 3,000 miles
for severe service. So did my 87 plymouth turismo. And that's not pennzoil
writing that, it's GM and chrysler. I believe the general consensus in the
united states is to change the oil and filter every 3 months or 3000 miles.
Surely even if that figure is a little premature, at least you're safer than
sorry, right? i've never heard anything about new oil being bad. what makes
it better after it's been in the engine for a couple grand? surely oil with
suspended particles is worse than fresh clean oil. it only seems logical,
right? For the price of an oil change you can do yourself ($15??) i'd rather
have the peace of mind that i've been maintaining my car the so-called right
way than 'pushing it' as we say in the oil-change business. another thing
people may not understand is the definition of severe driving. this is any
time you drive in town with stop and go driving, in varying temperatures,
constantly changing speeds, etc. severe driving really isnt that severe -
it's everyday life in america. the only time you are NOT at severe service is
if you live rurally, you start your car at the same time and temp every
morning, allow it to idle for 10 min prior to use, you leave your driveway at
the same speed every morning, you accelerate so many feet per second per
second the same way each day, you reach a plateau speed and maintain it for
so many minutues, you slow down at a certain rate, and then shut the car off.
that is 'normal driving'. not practical, huh?
> Being in that chemistry field a few years ago I learned that engine oil is
> designed to work for a lot more than 3000 miles and it actually gets the
> right properties after about 1000 miles! New oil is bad, old oil is bad.
> It's the time in between when the oil is good. I've heard that the 3000
> miles figure came from oil manufacturers so they can sell more. To me it
> makes no sense to change it so often.
While it is true that the oil companies surely have a hand in determining the
laws of preventative maintenence, why do YOU think it makes no sense? are
you a lubrication engineer? i would just like to know why you personally
think it makes no sense. what data do you base this attitude on?
Beside hurting the engine the old oil
> is one of the major sources of pollution.
> Another thing is the time. Mineral engine oil should be changed every 6
> months (not 3) but no more than12 months. Synthetic oil can stay in your
> engine for at least 12 months but no more than 24.
>
Same as above. where did these figures come in? don't you think that milage
on the vehicle plays a bigger part than time? think of it this way. with
time you have one factor - TIME. with milage you have many factors -
temperature changes due to start up and operation, pressure changes, the
continuing build-up of sludge, acids, deposits, and other suspended
particles, and time. you say i am wrong with recommending a change every
three months. why are you suggesting every six months? what data do you
base this off of? while it is true that synthetic oil is certainly better
for the engine if you go over on your oil changes, i don't think i would want
to keep the same oil in my car for 24 months.
seriously, i think that anyone who owns a DeLorean probably would rather stay
on the safe side and stick with the norm - every 3 months or 3000 miles (for
severe service). and you cannot afford to change it that often, one may want
to reevaluate priorities!
also, check out this page:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl872a.htm?terms=how+often+to+change+
oil
surely this thread will be killed before it comes to life!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 23:52:18 EDT
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Transmission and Oil question
Folks:
I see that the oil additive thread is up and running again. I would like to
share this with everyone.... so, hear me out.
There is an oil additive that is on the market.... called MILITEC1.
<A HREF="" href="http://www.militec1.com/">http://www.militec1.com/">http://www.militec1.com</A>
I am not a salesman, but my son is and that is how I got to know about this
product. My son gave me this product to use last spring. At first, I was
not interested at all with his quotes and claims and thinking "Oh no, another
product".... He got his boss to send me all kind of printed materials, so I
gave them my time of the day and read them in detail. Afterwards, I used all
of the Militec1 products with RELUCTANCE... Well, it is one year later with
18,000 miles and I am very impress every time I drive my DeLorean, which is
daily driven.
Anyway, there is a difference, not a major difference in the performance, but
a difference! Everything just works "a little better" as it should. Extreme
long distance drives is where this product shines. The whole car runs and
works effortlessly and smoothly! You don't feel those "subtle" vibrations
and laboring that you would feel during a very long trip ... There is LESS
driving fatigue and I like that since many times I would drive 12 hours or
longer.
For the last 30 years, I have used most, if not every major oil additive that
is advertised (I will not mention their names) or that is given or pass
between people in the industry as "here try this, its free" for I used to be
in the automotive industry. All these oils were used in my person cars or my
company's vehicles with poor or disappointing results. I do my own testing
for my own curiosity and many of these oils lose its abilities or their
properties before their time. This Militec1 is different.
I am now using this oil in everything where oil should or can be used in my
automobiles, firearms, machinery, tools and etc. Many of you are thinking I
am wasting my money ... for me, it is the best money I have wasted. This
Militec1 oil and its related products are good and I am impressed.
BTW... I have this oil running in my DeLorean's engine, in the manual tranny,
the cooling system, any bearing where I can at, all the hinges, component's
moving parts and etc.... I am tempted to open up the A/C compressor and drop
some in unit as they suggested .... and then, the angle drive and the speedo
cables.... Lets see what this can do for the angle drive, for I am on my
fourth unit.
My three cents....
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic. 9D NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 01:29:53 -0400
From: "Mike Aninger" <mike@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission and Oil question
Could you enlighten me on what is so bad to let your engine run a minute or
two before driving. Ideally, it is a good idea to give the engine a few
seconds to let the oil circulate throughout the components and to get a
cycle going but 10 seconds is enough. Another thought: driving away
immediately is fine. Leaving a residue of rubber in the parking lot with a
cold engine is another. Why do you think that engines have a specific
operating temperature that can burn us? This is where the engine will
perform its best. Even Indy cars, some of the most extreme cars in the
world, are given plenty of time to warm up before they even move! This is
an extreme of course. Just avoid extreme driving while it's (the engine) is
cold.
I will agree with you on the 3000 Mi. issue. A friend of mine had a theory:
The reason why people tell you to change the oil every 3000 miles is so you
notice it at 3000 and get it done after 6000!
My 2 bids (25 cents),
Mike A.
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 14:12:11 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission change
It is possible to change from auto to manual or manual to auto. Even
though it is possible I think that it is much more sensible to
consider selling the car and buying one in the configuration you
prefer. It will take a lot of time to get all of the hardware,
brackets, etc to do the job or use a "donor" car for the parts. It
will take some time too with most of it under the car. Consider what
your car is worth and what it will cost for all the parts and look
around and see what it will cost to get a car just the way you want.
From an economics point of view it doesn't make sense to do the
conversion.
Now if you are considering swapping in something different then
O.E.M. you are heading into uncharted territory where few have gone.
Expect to spend a lot more then you origionally budjet and still not
be happy with the results.
I think going from auto to manual is the harder way because of the
additional work under the instrument panel changing the pedals.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxx> wrote:
> so going from manual to auto would require more work? the rest would
be bolt
> on, right?
>
> Joseph
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "d_rex_2002" <rich@xxxx>
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 09:58:33 -0400
From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Canadian DeLoreans
Canadian DeLorean owners who wish to organize / belong to an active club for
cruises, swap info, etc., please contact me privately. I have no affiliation
with any mfgr. or vendor.
Marv.
#17707
Marvin Stein
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
tel: 519-434-1666
fax: 519-434-7071
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 10:43:41 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Afghan
Hank,
Can you post a picture and price for the afghan. I'm sure that lots of
people would be interested in it.
Scott Mueller
002981
-----Original Message-----
From: hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 2:15 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Another Memphis Update
Walt, You have sharp eyes! All of the pictures used for the design were of
my car:
an '81. Mimi asked for the '1981' and '1983' on the license plates to
represent the first and last years of production.
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 20:17:24 -0000
From: "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Michigan Delorean Service? Help!
I wanted to post this message to see if anyone knows of someone who
works on Deloreans in the Michigan/Detroit area.
I've had a service nightmare this year, my first summer of Delorean
ownership - I took my car to a local shop, as it was hunting around
at idle and would stick at 2000rpm when you accellerated. If you
backed off the acceleration it would zoom up as high as you wanted.
It all kicked off when I was doing a tune up (Bosch
rotor/cap/plugs/wires from a Delorean shop), so it seemed like a
simple diagnosis at first - reverse what you did, and it should
work...or find out what you bumped along the way and you should have
figured your problem out, right? Not exactly. Quite a bit of
troubleshooting later, I decided to take it to a local shop that had
worked on Deloreans and tons of
Volvos/Mercedes/Jags/Lotus/Panoz/BMWs... all the headache cars other
shops usually don't touch.
For two and a half months now it's been at a shop - in June they
counted 12 hours of tech time to troubleshoot and repair the
problem, and said there was a problem with the thermal vacuum switch
under the intake. They said it wasn't doing anything -
unfortunately, requiring the removal of the intake to get to the
switch. New O rings and gaskets with that, and the car was idling
nicely...sounded very good - so it cleared up that problem, but it
would not accelerate over 2000rpm. July came around and the tech
has 20 hours into it in July. Warm up regulator or fuel distributor
needs replacing, he said - I had the warm up regulator replaced.
The car runs up to about 4000 rpm. The Fuel distributor was also a
possibility, but the tech was able to swap it out with a different
car that was there and it still had the same symptoms. Also swapped
out a new fuel pump I had in the system, just to see if it would
make any difference, and it did not. All the fuel pressures have
been checked, vacuum levels, etc...specs check out but the car runs
lean during acceleration. The car looked like it was in intensive
care with all these dials and meters hooked up to it at different
phases of the testing.
To make a long story short, I'm sitting with a bill that will be up
to 32hours ($65-$85 an hour, you do the math)... which will be
adjusted I'm sure, as the car is not running properly, but the
tech's end diagnosis is that cam timing is off and they need to pull
the engine apart to get to the timing chains and check that out,
estimated around another $465, plus while they're in there....do a
valve adjustment, estimated around $85.
The problem I have is that I haven't been real impressed with what
my return on investiment this 32 hours of service has got me, and
I'd like to take this to someone who knows what the hell they are
doing as I need the peace of mind that at least I'm not going to be
a part of any more guesswork than necessary. I've already been on
the roller coaster of "Lets try this, this should do it" and finding
out $300 later that it hasn't done anything, and then a few weeks
later the next $300 idea comes up. I used to work for this shop,
and have a good relationship with them, but my patience has just
worn thin - I didn't intend on having my car sit in a shop for the
entire summer collecting thousands of dollars of bills and not have
it running right. Anyone in the Midwest knows, the summer months of
good weather are highly coveted, if you're a car enthusiast!
If anyone has any suggestions on service shops in Detroit, people in
the area that do side work, places I can drive to meet up with
someone that knows about the engine and fuel system, or even anyone
with experience in how to deal with some of these service situations
where shops are spending a ton of hours on something - I don't feel
all that comfortable spending $2500 for a car that isn't working
right, but I don't feel comfortable saying "screw you" to time that
a tech had on a car...and above all, I'm not all the comfortable
saying "sure, let's go ahead with another $500 idea by pulling the
motor apart to check the cam timing". Any thoughts?
Desperate in Detroit
Pete
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 11:16:01 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The DeLorean Owners Directory- Was: Delorean Registry
FYI
I found another museum DMC in Fulton, MO. The Auto World Museum there is
housed in a rather low-rent looking building (but, hey, we are talking
Missouri and this is a bit outside Columbia, not St. Louis or KC) and has
over a million dollars of cars from Rolls Royce, Packard, to De Lorean. :)
There are so many nice cars that the DMC wasn't my or my son's favorite. It
was my daughter's fav-- but that's because her initials and blazoned across
the grill. :) (and yes, that helped me decide on her name)
This museum and the Winston Churchill museum/college are probably the
biggest attractions for miles around. The museum cost $15 for me and the
kids.
It is #10485; a gray 5-speed. Flat hood. Small side stripes. I forgot to
check the radio style and the miles. (it was roped off, but hey, I had to
get the VIN no. :) It's possible it has no miles-- it was immaculate and
appeared to have no seat wear. Darn-- I'll just have to drive up again next
time I go visit my grandfolk, unless someone beats me to it.
-Kevin
#4687 Houston (TX, not MO ;-)
Here's some info:
http://www.maintour.com/missouri/jfcfult.htm
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 11:26:50 -0700
From: "IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Afghan?
> What's an Afghan?
Try http://www.google.com/search?q=Afghan+crochet
It's a type of blanket.
Gary
www.IN2TIME.com
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 14:10:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Steve Stankiewicz <protodelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Project for Sale (#06014 in Florida)
I'd like to make everyone aware of a Delorean for sale
in Florida. A visitor to my website emailed me this
on behalf of her friend. I have no affiliation with
the seller or the car so I can't verify any
information, but for the price, it's probably worth
looking at if you're in the area and looking for a
project. Here's what I know:
This was a restoration project in which the owner lost
interest.
The Car:
1981 Delorean, VIN 06014
Automatic
Grey Interior (Seats Recently Reupholstered)
Under 50,000 miles
"Body is great"
Frame has rust problems
FRAME IS CURRENTLY OUT OF CAR, BUT CAR IS COMPLETE.
The car is located in Keystone Heights Florida
(between Jacksonville & Gainesville.)
The owner's name is Jim and the price is $5,000 "firm"
For more information, please direct all inquiries to
Vanessa at: vfayo@xxxxxxxxxxx
=====
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
www.projectdelorean.com
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 21:40:14 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Michigan Delorean Service? Help!
Closest "real" DeLorean shop to you is probably Dave Bauerle in
Radnor Ohio.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "pbartusek" <pbmain@xxxx> wrote:
> I wanted to post this message to see if anyone knows of someone who
> works on Deloreans in the Michigan/Detroit area.
>
> Desperate in Detroit
> Pete
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 19:28:09 EDT
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Michigan Delorean Service? Help!
In a message dated 07/23/2002 5:00:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< the
tech's end diagnosis is that cam timing is off and they need to pull
the engine apart to get to the timing chains and check that out,
estimated around another $465, plus while they're in there....do a
valve adjustment, estimated around $85.
>>
Get your car out of there!
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 01:18:28 -0000
From: "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission change
My interest would be with going the not OEM way. IE something
like the Porsche Tiptronic set-up.
So would it be easier to go from the delorean auto or delorean
manual to the Porsche TipTronic?
Also someone make mention before that the frame on the
manual is capable of handiling more power then the auto. So if
true does this imply that conversion to the tiptronic 5sp would be
better suited from the 5sp delorean?
Jeremy
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> It is possible to change from auto to manual or manual to auto.
Even
> though it is possible I think that it is much more sensible to
> consider selling the car and buying one in the configuration
you
> prefer. It will take a lot of time to get all of the hardware,
> brackets, etc to do the job or use a "donor" car for the parts. It
> will take some time too with most of it under the car. Consider
what
> your car is worth and what it will cost for all the parts and look
> around and see what it will cost to get a car just the way you
want.
> From an economics point of view it doesn't make sense to do
the
>
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 01:59:12 -0000
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Car Show Guidelines -(Long)
Marty
Here are some ideas for car show guidelines. Since there is only one
car (our Ds) and a few model years involved it seems to me it might
be a good idea to expand on the special awards. Here are some ideas
that we have put together from some of the 24+ shows we did last year
and a few of my own ideas...
Best of Show, Stock
Best of Show, Modified
Best of Show, Painted
Best Interior, Stock
Best Interior, Modified
Best Engineered Overall
Best Custom Sound System
Special Interest (Curtis & Rich maybe?)
Best Engine Conversion (good idea Mark L)
Best PRV Modification (another good idea Mark L)
Wildest Custom (Curtis & Rich again maybe?)
Vendors Choice (NOT based on the amount of $ spent :~})
Ladies Choice
Peoples Choice, Stock
Peoples Choice, Modified
JZD's Choice
As you can see, this could go on and on, some of it being done by
judges, some of it by the people. You could even take awards (for
example Best Engineered) and break it down to Gold, Silver and
Bronze. Just food for thought.
I also think a drive thru judging setup could be considered. Once a
car is assigned its parking spot and the owner does whatever he needs
to do before being judged you simply drive up to the staging area and
let the judges do their thing...slam, bam, yada, yada. This is
easier on the judges and keeps the owners from having to sit around
waiting to have their car judged. You would think this would cause a
massive traffic jam, but I have seen this done at a show with 500
cars and it went very well. Kinda like people going to a buffet.
You can even do a drive thru awards presentation which would allow
everyone to see the winning cars. Winners of awards are simply told
to get in the drive thru line but are not told what for. Thats what
makes it exciting. The announcement is made and you bring your car
down a short runway, stop and get your award and park in a viewing
area.
This kinda stuff adds to the fun of the show and thats what its all
about, right?
Although it would take a bit of organizing, I dont believe it would
be that much and should help improve everything.
Ron & Cheryl
#6322
#1529
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 21:21:22 -0500
From: "Sean Spurlock" <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean in Lake Forest, IL???
Hello...this is Sean Spurlock and yesterday I was driving near Lake Forest
highschool in Lake Forest, IL. and saw a man driving a DeLorean. Looked like
an early '81 with gas flap in the hood. Who's car is this??? Anyone know???
E-mail me directly if you would like to talk, I live in Lake Forest too!!
Thanks!
Sean
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2002 21:37:33 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Afghan?
hahahahaha!
After being gone for a week on vacation, and scanning 250+ DML emails, I was
very curious about a Delorean Afghan!
Imagine my relief to find out it wasn't DMC12 with a roof mounted machine
gun, tooling around Kabul!
For the record, an afghan (small a) is a blanket, usually knitted.
Ow, my face hurts from smiling so broad!
-----Original Message-----
From: janvdwouw [mailto:jvdwouw@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 8:35 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Afghan?
> > For those of you who ordered our DeLorean Afghan
> > at the Memphis show, I have good news!
I hate to sound stupid, but can someone please tell me
what an Afghan is, other than someone living in Afghanistan?
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 02:49:19 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC Jacking Points
Was on John Hervey's website tonight (yes, your positive feedback has
convinced me to shop there *AFTER* my car comes home *THIS WEEKEND*).
He has several pictures of a D supported by a jack stand under what
I'm assuming is the plastic floorpan (can't verify because my car is
still 400 miles away). Is this kosher? What are the jacking points for
a D? I've read my new tech manual cover to cover and this little point
isn't addressed there.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 03:21:56 -0000
From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Transmission change
Once you head down this path, the frame you start with is the least
of your worries.
The only difference between the two frames is where the shifter
mounts. Don't know where the power handling thing came from. There is
no other difference. Since you'll be using a Porsche shifter anyway,
it's not the issue.
You'll have to get new, custom, axles made (the Porsche trans is much
wider than the DMC, although the CV joints will bolt up) and the
bigger obstacle is that the Porsche Tiptronic is computer controlled,
by a Porsche computer accustomed to being hooked up to a Porsche
engine. So you'll need to figure that out. You'll also have to invent
some transmission mounts, engine mounts, and a way to connect
whatever engine you use to a Porsche transmission. There is a ton of
re-engineering to do here.
The success of this sort of project is very dependent on your
engineering/mechanical/electronics aptitude, as well as the depth of
your wallet.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "jeremys_im" <jeremysmail@xxxx> wrote:
> My interest would be with going the not OEM way. IE something
> like the Porsche Tiptronic set-up.
>
> So would it be easier to go from the delorean auto or delorean
> manual to the Porsche TipTronic?
>
> Also someone make mention before that the frame on the
> manual is capable of handiling more power then the auto. So if
> true does this imply that conversion to the tiptronic 5sp would be
> better suited from the 5sp delorean?
>
> Jeremy
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 05:19:20 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Jacking Points
Bill - The correct jacking points are four reinforced pads at
the "corners" of the fiberglass underbody. The pads are designed to
accept the standard DMC jack, but any good jack can be used (as well
as jack stands) with an adapter or pad made from wood or rubber
(lots of options, depending on your equipment). The jacking points
are shown on the decal located on the tool compartment cover in the
trunk. I hope that helps.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
What are the jacking points for
> a D? I've read my new tech manual cover to cover and this little
>point isn't addressed there.
>
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:16:19 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Transmission change
Probably came from the fact that the stock 5-speed is stronger than the
stock auto. It has nothing to do with the frame. The guy I spoke to who
works with Alpines said the manual is good for 350+ hp, though I know Mr
Chevvy will disagree :-) (Who, FWIW, converted his from auto to 5-speed)
Martin
#1458
daveswingle2 wrote:
>
>The only difference between the two frames is where the shifter
>mounts. Don't know where the power handling thing came from.
>
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 06:50:55 -0500
From: Robert Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Transmission change
Jeremy,
The tiptronic 5 speed will not fit the Delorean frame. It is too long.
I looked at this trans when changing to the 4 speed Tiptronix.
(Thankx Dave for the info you posted on the conversion. I've been really
busy.)
BOB
>
>
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