To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 9 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Coolant From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 2. RE: Door strut debacle From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> 3. Re: Door strut debacle From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. Trailing arm rust From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx> 5. Re: Re: putting D in Museum - advice? From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 6. My delorean for sale From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless@xxxxxxx> 7. Re: putting D in Museum - advice? From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx> 8. Re: Coolant From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx> 9. Stranded in my Driveway Again... From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 17:07:34 -0000 From: "daveswingle2" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Coolant Blue Antifreeze is usually indicative of BMW or VW "factory" stuff that you can get at their dealers. Very good antifreeze, especially formulated for their large-scale use of aluminum. Original DMC stuff was the normal green (like Prestone) color. Dave Swingle --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxx> wrote: > Does anyone know what color the factory antifreeze was? I was going > to change mine since I don't know if it ever has been, but it looked > fresh, so I put it back in. It is blue but I have never seen blue > before (or heard of it.) If it is original, do I still need to > replace it even if it is clean or not? > Thanks > Cam ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 13:18:58 -0400 From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Door strut debacle I read the claim below that that the extra 5mm is to improve the design of the strut for the purposes of opening the door more? We can hope that some time was taken to calculate, measure and verify this design change before selling this part to the public. If so, what is the measured increase in the door arc? What is the old VS new angles of the door top to the T panel? If it is believed to be +/- tolerance on the location of the pin, what is the range and how many cars were sampled? Did both the top and bottom mounts vary from car to car? On both 06068 and 01860 with PJGrady struts, 3 of the 4 doors open fine, so I don't see why it is necessary to use a longer piston. The passenger side of 01860 does not open as far as the other 3 I think because the T panel is not adjusted properly and there is interference and even then, my passengers have no problem with ingress/egress with the door open. Which bring's up another point with the extended struts; On a car where the T panel is not perfectly aligned, the added travel of the door is more likely to hit and bend the T Panel. The ability to purchase a longer strut like this is great for cars that may have a problem due to manufacturing tolerances resulting in varied location of the piston mount(s). It is the option of the vendor if they want to sell a "stock" size piston, or "extended" size piston (or both!) but I find it irresponsible to not notify the customer that the part they are purchasing is not an exact fit and may cause serious damage to their car. I believe the vendor would (and should) be liable for damage caused by the part. I suspect this problem has effected more than "the very small number of cars" stated below. It's more likely that there are a bunch of cars out there with bent mounts and they don't even know it. This is what I saw in Memphis while helping with the door adjustment, in that small sample of cars there were a few bent mounts and the owners had no idea. When owners do find out, having shorter ends available will not fix the damage that has already been done. IMHO, knowing that this part can potentially be a problem on any number of cars is not worth the added room with the door open. > -----Original Message----- > From: James Espey [mailto:james@xxxxxxxxxx] > Subject: [DML] Door strut debacle > > <SNIP> > > A 5mm increase in the length of the strut translates into a > couple inches or so with the door fully open, resulting in significantly more room for ingress/egress from the DeLorean - something no one will > complain about. For the very small number of cars that this affects, shorter ends are available for the struts. > > Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. > <SNIP> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 17:38:06 -0000 From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Door strut debacle --- In dmcnews@xxxx, James Espey <james@xxxx> wrote: > DeLorean Motor Company (Texas) was the vendor where the struts were > purchased from that Rick Gendreau had problems with the struts being 5mm too > long for his application. Hello, Thanks for your reply James. Because of your excellent customer service, which is very important to me, I had refrained from naming your company on the DML as the seller of my door struts. Though my car was extensively modified, the door geometry was not. The modifications to my car did not cause the bottoming out of my door struts. That notwithstanding, there may be some subtle difference between my car and others that neither of us are aware of yet. Being in a customer service oriented industry myself, I value your attempts to make things right, and still plan on doing business with you in the future! Rick Gendreau ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 15:24:54 -0400 From: Michael T Twigger <marktwigger@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Trailing arm rust Hey guys, I have had my D for just over a month. Right now im 16 and my D is my first car. The car runs pretty well. The stearing has some play and the suspension is a little rough. The frame is in good shape all round except in two places. The right rear towing braket is broken from the frame, i have manged to to lift it back up and I can get someone to weld it back. The big problem is the passenger side trailing arm the epoxy has cracked and the frame has rusted up underneath it.. I can get the rust of and recoat it with the epoxy, but is it worth doing it all? is it cheaper just to replace the whole trainling arm? if so how big of jobs is that to do? thanks Mark Vin#1366 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 16:23:33 -0400 From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: putting D in Museum - advice? just out of curiosity, doesn't keeping the doors closed put strain on the torsion bar? Keeping them open would take all of the strain off of them ( they would in effect be "unwound") look into getting piston locks. They are little clamps to put on the pistons so they will take all of the weight of the door. I doubt some caretaker is going to remember to open and close the door everyday and I think that would put premature wear on them. What do you guys think of my 2 cents worth? Joseph vin 2850 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:25:51 -0000 From: "thinkstainless" <thinkstainless@xxxxxxx> Subject: My delorean for sale Hey guys I added some pics online here, check them out at folder thinkstainless. Yes thats the actual car, I dont know if any of you guys know Matt Olans, but he's comming to check out this car today, so if you want to verify anything with him (That is if he dosent buy this car off me) Post a message up for him since he reads posts here, and ask him questions if you feel more confortable doing that, or you could ask anyone in the AZ Delorean club if they could if their willing or anyone else in the area :) I know how tough it is to buy cars from a distance, im the same way since this Delorean I bought I got in person, so I knew what I was getting. Thanks Mike ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:31:05 -0000 From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: putting D in Museum - advice? Hmmm... I didn't know that. What I do know is that the guy I bought my Delorean from stored it with the Passenger side door open (don't ask becasue I don't know why he did) and he said that when he first had the car the doors worked great but after a year being open it began sagging. You notice a huge difference between the drivers door (that was not left open) and the passenger side. Drivers door opens fine and stays up but the passenger side droops so low I have to use a broom stick to keep it open when I work on it (the car isn't ready for the road yet). After I finish the car I'm getting a pair of new struts for both doors. Steve --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxx> wrote: > > > Don't have them display the car with the doors open (put extra strain on the torsion bar and strut) I was told by Rob Grady that leaving the doors open actually minimizes the strain on the torsion bar and struts. It is my understanding that when the doors are closed, both the torsion bar and struts are "loaded". When open, they both are in a non-stressed state. > > -Hank #1619 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 20:48:57 -0000 From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Coolant Antifreeze can comein any color (green, yellow, orange, red, etc..). Just because it looks fresh dosn't mean it is. I have never heard of blue antifreeze, maybe the previous owner put in an addative to it that made it that color? I would just flush out the system and start with new fresh fluids. With any used car you get it's always wise to replace all fluids and start fresh so you know when how old it is and will know when it's time to change them again. There is a tester you can buy that will test the antifreeze to see if it's still good using a Hydrometer. This will test the strength of the antifreeze. There are a few types such as one squeeze a rubber bulb to suck some antifreeze into a chamber that has a meter on it (nothing fancy, no electronics just all plastic pieces) and the other are test strips that you dip into the antifreeze and they change color to determine the strength. Steve --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "vin4258" <vin4258@xxxx> wrote: > Does anyone know what color the factory antifreeze was? I was going to change mine since I don't know if it ever has been, but it looked fresh, so I put it back in. It is blue but I have never seen blue > before (or heard of it.) If it is original, do I still need to > replace it even if it is clean or not? > Thanks > Cam ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 14:49:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Sean Mulligan <sean_mulligan@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: Stranded in my Driveway Again... Hey everybody! Having quite the problem with my D lately. It's a huge non-start problem. She only starts when she's jumped. The battery isn't dead, in fact it's brand new. Then the problem is, there's very little juice when she's started, so the fuel pump kicks in and out. Is this a ground problem or what? Where do I start searching?! Please help! -Sean Mulligan vin #10054 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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