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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: speeding tickets in AZ?
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Fusebox replacement wiring
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
3. reasonable pricing on Deloreans
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
4. DeLorean Story and For Sale
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Looking for Owner in Ontario CN
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. what is this part?
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Speeding Tickets.
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: reasonable pricing on Deloreans
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. VIN #s 001-499
From: Ian Stewart <istewart@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Passenger Door
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: verifying a/c charge amount
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
12. Re: what is this part?
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 10:44:53 EDT
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: speeding tickets in AZ?
I am now sorta living in AZ and in the spring we went to Las Vegas via
Flagstaff
We were cruising (although not in a DeLorean ) at 112 and we got pulled over.
I was not driving and we had a rental truck (big truck) and the cop was
pissed off at us. Not that we were speeding but because we ignored him and
blew past him.
I was sleeping at the time but he said we went by him so fast that he didn't
even clock us until he got behind us
Fortunate for us because the driver saw him and slowed down to 98
He gave us a warning and told us he didn't mind us going fast just don't do
it past him.
Whew
On another incident 5 years earlier on the same road I got a ticket for 5
over and it cost me $75 go figure
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 10:53:51 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fusebox replacement wiring
Farrar and Group. The fuse block will work fine and look as original as you
make it up. Only thing is it has two rows instead of three. As the picture on
the web site show it has 1/4 "male quick disconnects on the back where the
original was hard wired to the socket. They won't interchange and you can't
unplug one and plug in another. Your old block/wires will have to be
reterminated using a female 1/4" quick disconnect. After the old wire is cut
from the original block, I would crimp on the new female connector,solder it
and then use heat shrink tubing on it. This process will take about a day.
Another way to terminate that would be quicker. Take the old terminal out (
if you can ) and plug on to the back of the new block 1/4" tab and then
solder it. I would try to put some heat shrink tubing on the wire so you can
slip it up and insulate better. This process should take about 2-4 hours.
Either way will work.
Just depend on how much time you have.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/modification.shtml
<< Hi, List:
With all the talk of fuses of late, I was curious if anybody has installed
the fusebox that is at Special-T-Auto. It looks, like most parts that are
worth it, expensive yet good. Wondered if there is anybody using it out
there. E-mail me off the
list if you like.
Off to go sell air conditioning and rad-suits to Nevadans ....
Farrar Hudkins
New Orleans, LA
- >>
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 16:32:27 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: reasonable pricing on Deloreans
ive been looking to buy a Delorean for about 3 years, to no avail i
might add...ive driven from NYC to West Virginia on one attempt...i
dont feel like doing that again...not if im not coming home with
one...anyway....for those on the board with more knowledge than
myself, what would be considered a good deal...my hopes are for a car
with little to no mileage from 0-3000 miles give or take...and of
course it must be in excellent condition...i dont mind dumping some
$$$$ into it as far as updates or for bad storage etc...am i insane
in thinking i can get one in the neighborhood of 20g's....the one in
west virginia had 453 miles and the owner want 15 thousand...wich i
was willing to pay but the car needed a little too much work and
things were suspect with it...anyway if there is an owner out there
with a Delorean thyre willing to sell that is a great low mileage
representation....in that $$$$ range drop me an email...
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 11:40:40 -0700
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Story and For Sale
About a month ago my dad called and said h saw a DeLorean sitting at a repair shop
in town ( Kokomo, In ). After work one morning I drove by to take a look at it. What I saw it
was pretty rough and looked to have been neglected for some time. The worse part to me
was the color. Someone had painted it white from the front up to the rear quarters, then a
blue stripe went around the top of the car, and then the rear quartes and fascia was red. Pretty
hideaous in my opinion. Anyway I called the shop later and the guy said that he was fixing a
couple of things on it for a guy that owned a car lot in town.
I then drove my car out to the dealer and talked to the guy that owned it. He said that his son
actually owned the car and that the guy that owned Dominos Pizza had once owned the car and
had it painted dominos colors and took it around to different stores as a promotional thing. The
guy also said that they had $10,000 in reciepts from DMC Houston. I'm sure that could be verified
but from what little I saw I'm not sure if I would believe it or not. LIttle things like still having the
original coolant bottle. I would've thought that would've been one of the things they would've replaced.
Anyway, the car is now on the dealers lot and for sale. I called to see what they wanted for it just
to settle my curiousity. They guy told me $12,900!! I was a little shocked. Never would've thought
that high. Unless he cleaned it up a lot from what I saw it wasn't worth it. Heres a little about the car.
'81 vin 17**, 8,000 miles, gas flap, black interior, automatic. I didn't get a chance to look at the frame
or in the engine compartment. I can get the dealer name, address, and phone if anyone really wants it.
Just for what it's worth.
Jason Vin #5903
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:53:18 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Looking for Owner in Ontario CN
Just wondering if anybody on the list is located near Islington and
Dixon
With a totally custom interior (still looks like work in progress)
I too am located near Mississauga, Ontario
Email me privately if you would like!
Thanks much
Kenneth
05541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 15:23:24 -0400
From: "Digital Devices" <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: what is this part?
Maybe a stupid question..
But I have no idea what this part is .. can somebody please help
It's a black cylinder shaped piece with two connector or breathers on
it. located under the intake manifold
Its about the size of half a pop can .. a little smaller though
Connected to the small hose that goes to the coolant overflow bottle
And also has a metal push rod type mechanism connected to the back
I have a picture of this if need be it.. I can email it
Please email me back privately if you want the picture
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks
Kenneth
05541
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 22:09:47 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Speeding Tickets.
With all the talk here about speeding tickets, this is a helpful site that I have
used before when planning trips:
It's not a 100% accurate resource, but it is a helpful guide to give you an idea
about where to be careful at when driving the highways. I'm not advocating
speeding, but condem it would be hypocritical on my part. There's more I
could say, but I don't want to clutter up the list.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 22:15:15 -0000
From: "basfe25" <dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: reasonable pricing on Deloreans
For $20,000 you can get one in excelent condition! Do not pay 20G's
for one that needs any work whatsoever!! If you live in NY call/stop
by PJ Grady in sayville Long Island, he sometimes knows people that
are selling good cars and will usually know the history of the car
(like what condition it's in). www.pjgrady.com
Steve
>am i
>insane
> in thinking i can get one in the neighborhood of 20g's....the one
in
> west virginia had 453 miles and the owner want 15 thousand...wich
i
> was willing to pay but the car needed a little too much work and
> things were suspect with it...anyway if there is an owner out
there
> with a Delorean thyre willing to sell that is a great low mileage
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 17:18:57 -0700
From: Ian Stewart <istewart@xxxxxxx>
Subject: VIN #s 001-499
Hello list,
The recent "Math" post made reference to VIN #s 1-499, and I've seen the
subject pop up in other places on the Internet. But I still don't
understand what these cars are. Do they even exist? If so, are they the
black fiberglass-body factory "training mules" or are they somehow
production D's that are unaccounted for? I trust somebody out there can
clear this up.
Ian
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 22:40:03 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Passenger Door
> Walt, apparently the early cars have a shorter cable for the exterior
release handle
> preventing the spring on the latch release from pulling back far enough
and allowing the
> locks to function correctly.
Martin,
I never heard of the early cars having a different length cable. I compared
between the OEM handle, the cast aluminum retrofit and the new DMC/Texas
reproduction handle, and dimensionally they all are the same. Of course the
cable is a separate piece. Are you sure the early cables are shorter? If
the cable didn't translate all the movement from the handle to the bell
crank, then you really have a problem.
I theorized before that much of our problems could be resolved if the
exterior handle could be made to retract more cable. Without modifying the
existing hardware, I made a bell crank thingy that allowed the cable to
attach closer to the bell crank's pivot. The idea behind this is that the
short movement of the cable would translate into a bigger movement of the
bell crank at the expense of making the handle stiffer. This worked per se
but made it too stiff.
My next step was to loosen all the springs involved. The engineers wanted
to make very sure that the handle didn't rattle, so they have a spring in
each latch and two in the handle itself. Put this all together and you have
one very stiff door handle. Add to it the cable adjustment problem and it's
no wonder why so many people have handles break. I already converted to
DMC/Texas reproduction handles and didn't want to modify them. But it
looked like a good thing to try would be to drill a new set of holes for the
ends of the springs to hold into. This would relax the tension a bit. Even
completely removing a spring from one side might help. This would make the
handle easier to move, but the thin lever arm would still be strained just
as much (or more with my bell crank thingy). Someday I'll get an extra set
of latches to tinker with. If they could be made to work reliably with a
softer spring inside then this with my bell crank thingy would be a perfect
fix.
Walt
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 22:56:32 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: verifying a/c charge amount
David T,
> 2) Using a sonic device to detect supercooled droplets in the suction
> line.
I never knew that such a device existed; though, I have heard of a similar
device that detects vapor bubbles. Can you recommend a source for learning
more about the sonic devices?
> 3) Filling to the sight glass (If a sight glass is even on the
> system).
Not a chance in the DeLorean even if you installed an aftermarket sight
glass. In accumulator/orifice tube systems, there will always be bubbles in
the liquid line.
> 4) The least precise and most widely used method, filling till the
> compressor runs or at least to a suction pressure corresponding to
> about 34 degrees F for the refrigerent being used.
This sounds like my best bet considering my resources at hand.
I started this thread because I'm installing a variable orifice valve (VOV)
in place of the OEM fixed orifice tube. The fixed tube is a crude
compromise between what it needs to be at idle vs. highway speeds. By
upgrading to a VOV, the orifice automatically adjusts to the optimum size
for the pressure of the refrigerant. This translates to cooler evaporator
temperatures at idle, less compressor cycling, longer compressor life and
better fuel economy. I have done quite a bit of reading on it, and there
apparently are no disadvantages to using a VOV in either an R-12 or R-134a
system. But of course I'm only reading the manufacture's hype.
My strategy is to get the system working with the VOV with an accurately
measured refrigerant charge. Then closely monitor the system's pressures &
temperatures and use that as a benchmark for future diagnostics.
Walt
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 01:41:53 EDT
From: deloreanss@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: what is this part?
Kenneth,
What you are describing is the hot water valve. This little mechanism is
vacuum tube activated by the heat/a/c switch on the dash. It allows hot water
from the engine to flow into the heater core when any mode except max a/c is
selected.
John Weaver
ETDOC
RED DMC #10527
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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